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A    HANDBOOK    OF    FLORIDA 


A  HANDBOOK  OF  FLORIDA 


CHARLES   LEDYARD  NORTON 


liJ^^m^ 


WITH  FORTY-NINE  0R.PS  AND  PLANS 


NEW    YORK 

LONGMANS,    GREEN,    &    CO. 

15   EAST   SIXTEENTH   STREET 

1891 


COPTKIGHT,    1891,    BY 

CHARLES  LEDYARD  NORTON 


TROWS 
ING  AND  BOOKBINDING  COMPANY, 


p 


UNIVERSITY  ^.-^   ....^IFORNIA 
SAiNTA  BARBARA 


JN  U 


NOTE. 


The  right  and  title  to  "  The  Florida  Annual,"  of  which 
four  editions  have  been  published,  has  been  purchased,  and 
the  present  Handbook  is  designed  to  ijreserve  its  best  feat- 
ures in  a  new  form. 


PREFACE. 


The  first  section  of  the  Handbook  i^roper  is  devoted  to 
sketches  of  the  several  counties,  with  maps  compiled  from 
the  best  attainable  authorities.  In  the  context  the  different 
railroad  lines  crossing  the  counties  are  given,  with  tables 
of  stations  and  distances,  so  that,  if  desired,  the  different 
routes  can  be  followed  from  county  to  county.  Take,  for  in- 
stance, Eoute  40,  p.  183,  Jacksonville  to  Palatka.  The  railway 
passes  through  Duval,  Clay,  and  Putnam  Counties.  Descrip- 
tions of  the  counties  with  their  respective  maps  are  alpha- 
betically aiTanged,  beginning  at  page  1.  On  page  25  are 
stations  and  distances  in  Duval  County,  on  page  16  those  in 
Clay  County,  and  on  page  82  those  in  Putnam  County,  so 
that  the  movement  of  the  train  can  be  followed  from  one 
map  to  another  throughout  the  journey.  Distances  are 
given  in  both  directions  as  indicated  by  arrows  at  the  sides 
of  the  tables.  The  frequent  establishment  of  new  stations 
and  the  discontinuance  of  old  ones  may  account  for  discrep- 
ancies between  the  maps  and  current  time-tables.  In  future 
editions  these  will  be  corrected  as  rapidly  as  jDossible. 

In  the  other  sections  travelling  routes  are  described  in 
general  and  in  detail,  with  as  much  accuracy  as  possible  iin- 
der  the  changing  conditions  of  a  country  where,  a  few  years 
ago,  railroads  were  unknown. 

The  general  plan  divides  the  State  into  five  sections,  as 


Vni  PREFACE. 

follows  :  The  Atlantic  Coast  (p.  103)  ;  The  Gulf  Coast  (p. 
228)  ;  Middle  or  Iiil-.md  Florida  (p.  273) ;  Subtropical 
Florida  (p.  309) ;  West  Florida  (p.  329).  Under  these  again, 
the  towns  and  places  of  special  interest  are  designated  as 
numbered  routes  covering  the  principal  resorts  and  lines  of 
travel  as  they  exist.  Much  information  of  value  to  intend- 
ing settlers,  as  well  as  to  tourists,  will  be  found  throughout 
the  volume.  This  is  especially  true  in  consideration  of  the 
county  maps,  which  have  never  before  been  published  to- 
gether in  such  convenient  shape. 

Reference  to  the  table  of  contents,  i>-p.  ix  to  xii,  will 
facilitate  the  finding  of  any  particular  route  or  locality. 

Hotel  rates,  the  usual  prices  for  saddle-horses,  carriages, 
boats,  guides,  etc.,  are  in  the  main  the  result  of  personal  ex- 
perience, or  from  answers  to  letters  of  inquiry.  Such  rates, 
however,  are  always  variable,  with,  in  general,  an  upward 
tendency. 

The  editor  will  be  grateful  for  the  correction  of  any  er- 
rors, or  for  information  that  may  increase  the  value  of  fu- 
ture editions. 

C.  L.  N. 

15  East  Sixteenth  Street,  New  York, 
November,  181)0. 


CONTENTS. 


[In  order  to  permit  the  introductiou  of  new  routes  in  future 
editions  of  the  Handbook,  -without  disturbing  the  general  arrange- 
ment, tlie  routes  are  numbered  deciimMy.  Tluis  Jacksonville  is 
10;  Fernandifia,  20;  St.  Augustine,  30  ;  while  the  intermediate 
numbers,  11,  22,  35,  etc.,  are  assigned  to  routes  subordinate  to, 
and  more  or  less  connected  with,  each  central  point  of  interest.] 

PAGE. 

Introductory  Matter,  Hints  to  Travellers,  etc xiii 

Paragraph  History  of  Florida xx 

Counties  and  County  Maps. 

Alachua  County 1 

Baker  County 6 

Bradford  County  7 

Brevard  County 9 

Calhoun  County 11 

Citrus  County 13 

Clay  County   14 

Dade  County , 19 

De  Soto  County 21 

Duval  County 23 

Escambia  County 27 

Franklin  County , 29 

Gadsden  County 31 

Hamilton  County 32 

Hernando  County 34 

Hillsborough  County , 36 

Holms  County 39 

Jackson  County 40 

Jefferson  County 42 

Lafayette  County 43 

Lake  County 45 

Lee  County 49 

Leon  County .* 51 

Levy  County , 54 

Liberty  County 55 

Madison  County  57 

Manatee  County 59 

Marion  County Gl 


X  CONTKNTS. 

PAOE 

Monroe  County 04 

Nassau  County 65 

Orange  County 68 

Osceola  County 71 

Pasco  County 74 

Polk  County 76 

Putnam  County 80 

Saint  Jolin's  County 82 

Sumter  County 85 

Santa  Rosa  County 88 

Suwannee  County 89 

Taylor  County 93 

Volusia  County 94 

Wakulla  Coun'ty 98 

Walton  County" 100 

Washington  County 101 

I.  The  Atlantic  Coast. 

KOUTE  PAOE 

10.  Jacksonville 103 

11.  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine  and  return 110 

12.  Jacksonville  to  Fernandina  and  return Ill 

13.  Jacksonville  to  Mayport  and  return 112 

14.  Jacksonville  to  Pablo  Beach  and  return 114 

15.  Jacksonville  to  Green  Cove  Springs  and  return 115 

16.  Jacksonville  to  Fort  George  Island  and  return 115 

17.  The  Lower  St.  John's  River  and  Domenique  de  Gonrgues  117 

20.  Fernandina 127 

21.  Amelia  Island 130 

22.  Amelia  River 130 

23.  Nassau  Sound 131 

24.  Cumberland  Sound 131 

30.  St.  Augustine 133 

31.  Anastasia  Island 175 

33.  Matanzas  River  and  Inlet 178 

34.  St.  Augustine  to  Jacksonville 183 

35.  St.  Augustine  to  Palatka 182 

38.  Jacksonville  to  Palatka  by  rail 183 

39.  Jacksonville  to  Palatka  by  river 184 

40-  Green  Cove  Springs 187 

50.  Palatka 188 

51.  Lake  George 190 

52.  The  Fi-uitland  Peninsula 191 

53.  Crescent  Lake 191 

51.  Seville 193 

55.  Palatka  to  Sauford  by  rail 193 

56.  Palatka  to  Sanford  by  river 194 

60.  Sanford '. 196 


CONTENTS.  XI 

ROUTE  PAGE 

01.  De  Land 198 

02.  Lake  Helen 199 

70.  Davtona 200 

71.  Ormond 202 

72.  Halifax  River 202 

80.  New  Smyrna 20B 

81.  Ponce  Park  and  Mosqnito  Inlet 207 

90.  The  Indian  River 210 

91.  Titusville 213 

92.  Rockledge 214 

93.  Melbourne 215 

94.  Jupiter  Inlet 216 

95.  Jupiter  Inlet  to  Lake  Wortli 221 

100.  Lake  Wortli 222 

101.  The  Sea  Coast  South  of  Lake  Worth 220 


II.  The  Gulp  Coast. 

110.  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Key 229 

111.  Cedar  Key 229 

120.  Jacksonville  to  Homosassa 233 

121.  Homosassa 233 

130.  The  Pinellas  Peninsula 236 

131.  Tarpon  Springs 237 

132.  Clearwater  Harbor 243 

133.  St.  Petersburg 247 

140.  Tampa 249 

141.  Port  Tampa  251 

142.  The  Manatee  River 252 

150.  Charlotte  Harbor 254 

151.  Punta  Gorda 256 

152.  St.  James-on-the-Gulf  (Pine  Island) 259 

153.  Punta  Rassa  and  Tarpon  Fishing 261 

154.  The  Caloosa  River 205 

155.  Fort  Mvers 267 

156.  Lake  Okeechobee 269 

157.  The  Everglades 270 

158.  Naples 271 

III.  Middle  Florida. 

160.  Sanford  to  Tampa  Bay  and  Port  Tampa 275 

161.  Winter  Park 276 

162.  Orlando 278 

163.  Kissimmee 279 

164.  Lakeland 280 

165.  Bartow 281 

166.  Plant  City , . .  .^ 282 


\ii  CONTENTS. 

ROUTE  PAGE 

170.  Jackson vi lie  to  Ocala 282 

171.  Inteilachen 28^^ 

172.  Citra 284 

173.  OaiiK'Sville  ;ind  The  Land  Office 288 

174.  Jacksonville  to  Leesburg 290 

1 7~).  Micanopy  and  the  Seminole  Wars 291 

180.  Ocala 294 

181.  The  Oklawaha 296 

182.  Silver  Spring 299 

183.  Blue  Spring 301 

184.  Dunellon 302 

185.  Lake  Weir 304 

190.  Leesburg 305 

IV.  Subtropical  Florida. 

200.  Biscavne  Bay 810 

201.  The  Florida  Reefs 315 

202.  Key  West 323 

V.  West  Florida. 

210.  Jacksonville  to  River  Jirnction : 331 

211.  Macolenny , 334 

212.  Olustee 334 

213.  Lake  City 338 

214.  Live  Oak 339 

215.  Madison 339 

216.  Monticello 340 

220.  Tallahassee 342 

221.  The  Wakulla  Spring 347 

222.  St   Marks 349 

223.  Quincv 350 

224.  Chattahoochee 351 

230.  River  Junction  to  Peusacola 352 

231.  Ii[arianna 353 

232.  De  Funiak  Springs 354 

233.  Milton 355 

240.  Peusacola 355 

250.  The  Gulf  Coast  of  West  Florida 365 

Miscellaneous  Information  :  Oranges,   Lemons,   Limes, 

Citrons,  Grape  Fruit,  Pineapple 368 

Native  Races  of  Florida 372 

Seminole  Words,  etc 373 

Average  Temperature 377 

Rainfall,  etc  ,  in  Florida 378 

Population 378 

The  Game  Laws  of  Florida 379 


FLORIDA. 


Thk  State  of  Florida,  owing  to  its  semi-tropical  climate, 
and  its  remarkable  natiaral  attractions,  is  recognized  as  the 
most  favored  winter  sauitorium  and  pleasure  resort  of  Amer- 
icans. Especially  is  this  true  of  those  who  reside  so  far 
North  that  they  are  certain  to  be  more  or  less  incommoded 
by  protracted  cold. 

The  Florida  Season. — As  soon  as  the  weather  begins  to  be 
wintry  and  disagreeable  in  the  North  it  begins  to  be  pleasant 
in  Florida.  Although  the  fashionable  season  does  not  open 
until  after  Christmas,  invalids  or  others  desiring  to  avoid 
the  first  approaches  of  cold  can  always  find  comfortable  ac- 
commodations near  the  princiijal  places  of  resort.  The  lead- 
ing hotels  usually  open  in  January  and  close  in  May,  and  the 
travelling  facilities  are  at  their  best  during  that  i^eriod. 

Kailroads. 

New  York  is  the  natural  starting  point  for  travellers  from 
the  Northern  Atlantic  States  and  Canada.  Through  tickets 
without  change  of  cars  to  St.  Augustine  and  the  other  prin- 
cijial  resorts  in  Florida  can  be  procured  at  any  general  rail- 
way office. 

The  Atlantic  Coast  Line  is  the  shortest.  Time,  New  York 
to  Jacksonville,  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  hours.  Vestibuled 
trains  are  run  through  from  New  York. 

There  are  three  ordinary  express  trains  daily  each  way  be- 
tween New  York  and  Jacksonville  during  the  winter  season. 
The  vestibuled  trains  are  made  up  of  drawing-room  cars 


XIV  OCHAN   ROUTES. 

with  electric  lights,  libraries,  dining-rooms,  smoking-rooms, 
bath,  and  all  the  luxuries  of  a  modern  hotel. 

The  direct  route  passes  through  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  Wil- 
mington, Del.,  Baltimore,  Md.,  Washington,  D.  C,  Pkich- 
mond,  Va.,  Wilmington,  N.  C,  Charleston,  S.  C,  and  Sa- 
vannah, Ga.,  to  Jacksonville  and  St.  Augustine. 

S/.  Louis,  Louisville,  and  Cincinnati  are  the  three  points  of 
departure  from  the  Northern  Central  gi'oup  of  States.  From 
these  cities  frequent  trains  run  either  to  Pensacola  or  Jack- 
sonville, or  direct  to  New  Orleans,  whence  communication 
with  the  Florida  railroad  system  is  constant  and  easy. 


Ocean  Routes. 

The  journey  to  Florida  may  be  pleasantly  varied  by  mak- 
ing part  of  the  trijj  by  sea,  as  indicated  in  the  following  list 
of  steamship  lines. 

Tlie  Ch/de  Steamship  Comjyani/,  Pier  27  East  River,  office 
No.  5  Bowling  Green.  Tri-weekly  steamers  to  Jacksonville 
(time,  about  three  days).  Monthly  schedules  are  issued, 
giving  dates  and  hours  of  sailing.  All  these  steamers  touch 
at  Charleston,  S.  C. 

The  Mallory  I/tne,  Pier  20  East  River,  New  York,  de- 
spatches a  steamer  once  a  week  to  Fernandina,  but  little 
more  than  one  hour's  ride  to  Jacksonville  (about  three 
days  at  sea). 

77^6  Ocean  Steamship  Conqxint/,  Pier  25  East  River,  New 
York.  Steamers  once  a  week  from  Boston,  New  York,  and 
Philadelphia  (the  latter  freight  only),  to  Savannah,  Ga.,  five 
hours  from  Jacksonville  (about  forty-eight  hours  at  sea). 

The  Old  Dominion  Line,  Pier  26  North  River,  New  Y''ork. 
Tri-weekly  steamers  to  Norfolk  and  Richmond,  Va.  (about 
twenty-four  hours  at  sea),  thence  twenty-two  hours  by  rail 
to  Jacksonville. 


HINTS  TO  TRAVELLERS.  XV 

Hints  to  Travellers. 

Outfit.  Woollen  undergarments,  shirts,  and  hosiery  of  light 
or  medium  thickness,  according  to  individual  temi^erament, 
are  best.  Camels'  hair,  or  some  of  the  so-called  unshrinkable 
flannels  are  preferable.  There  are  days  in  every  month  when 
thin  outer  clothing,  suitable  for  summer  wear,  is  desirable, 
but,  in  general,  clothing  of  medium  thickness  is  not  uncom- 
fortable. Moderately  warm  wraps,  overcoats,  and  rugs  are 
indispensable,  and  mackintoshes  or  other  waterproofs  are 
recommended.  For  men  soft  felt  hats  arc  best  for  general 
use,  but  sun-helmets  of  cork,  pith,  or  duck  are  convenient 
for  warm  weather.  Straw  or  jDalmetto  hats  can  always  be 
purchased  in  Florida.  If  much  walking  is  anticipated  high 
shoes  are  desirable,  as  deep  sand  cannot  always  be  avoided. 
For  men  leggings  of  leather  or  canvas  are  recommended  as 
a  protection  against  the  tangled  "  scrub "  and  its  living 
inhabitants,  especially  the  "  red  bugs  "  and  wood-ticks  that 
frequent  the  undergrowth.  During  the  winter  months 
snakes  are  rarely  encountered.  Leggings  are  also  conveni- 
ent for  riding,  and  are  very  generally  used  by  tourists  and 
sportsmen. 

All  the  articles  specified  can  be  purchased  in  St.  Augus- 
tine or  Jacksonville,  at  a  slight  advance  upon  New  York 
prices,  and  most  of  them  can  be  found  in  any  of  the  larger 
towns 

The  normal  clear,  winter  weather  of  Florida  is  i^erfect  for 
out-of-door  life,  but  seasons  differ  greatly.  "While  summer 
is  usually  the  rainy  season  there  are  occasional  variations  from 
the  regular  order.  Sometimes  there  are  rainy  winters,  and 
every  season  brings  its  "northers,"  when  a  cold  wind  blows, 
sometimes  for  several  days  in  succession,  and  fires  and  warm 
clothing  are  in  demand.  "With  a  limited  amount  of  luggage 
it  is  often  inconvenient  to  carry  a  full  supply  of  thick  under- 
wear, therefore  it  is  suggested  that  these  sudden  changes  of 
temperature  be  met  by  donning  two  suits  of  light  underwear 
at  once. 

Railway  travel  in  Florida  is  unavoidably  dusty  in  fair 
\veather,  the  di;st  being  of  that  i)enetrating  (Quality  that  ren- 


xvi  HINTS   TO   TJIAVKLLERS. 

clers  its  perfect  exclusion  from  cars  wellnigh  impossible. 
Dusters  are  not  pretty  to  look  at,  but  they  add  greatly  to  tlie 
comfort  of  travel,  and  any  anti-dust  contrivances  in  the  way 
of  caps,  neckerchiefs,  and  the  like  will  be  found  equally  con- 
venient. 

Camp  Outfit.  Two  woollen  blankets,  army  size ;  one  sewn 
together  at  bottom  and  along  two  edges,  to  form  a  sleeping- 
bag,  and  the  other  left  unsewu,  for  use  in  warm  weather, 
^5.00  ;  one  rubber  j)oncho,  $^1.00  ;  one  suit  of  oil-skin  cloth- 
ing, coat  and  trousers,  §3.50 ;  one  perfectly  water-tight 
match-box  (a  tightly  corked,  large-mouthed  vial  is  perhai)s 
best)  ten  cents  ;  one  pocket  or  watch-chain  compass.  This  is 
indispensable  in  Florida,  for  in  cloudy  weather  there  is  noth- 
ing to  steer  by  in  the  piny  woods,  and  the  watercourses  are 
often  so  tortuous  that  bearings  are  easily  lost,  fifty  cents 
upward;  one  mosquito  net.  Florida  hunters  use  "cheese- 
cloth," as  that  is  jDroof  against  sand-flies  while  the  ordinaiy 
netting  is  not.  The  foregoing  list  covers  essentials  only. 
The  aggregate  cost  need  not  exceed  $12.00 

Shooting  Outfit.  Guns  according  to  preference,  since  every 
sportsman  has  his  favorite.  A  light  32  or  -i-i  calibre  rifle 
will  be  found  very  convenient.  Game  of  all  kinds  has  been 
shot  at  so  much  since  the  introduction  of  breech-loaders 
that  it  has  become  very  wild.  The  rifle  can  often  be  used 
with  good  results  when  shot-guns  are  useless. 

For  shot,  Nos.  9  and  4  with  a  supply  of  buckshot  for  large 
game,  and  a  few  long-range  cartridges  have  been  found  to 
serve  well  for  general  shooting. 

Fishing  Outfit.  An  ordinary  bass-rod,  reel,  and  line  is  best 
for  general  purposes.  Common  metallic  spinners  or  spoons 
are  used  for  trolling.  Florida  fishes  handle  trolling  gear 
rather  roughly,  and  *'  phantom  minnows  "  and  the  like  are 
apt  to  come  to  grief.  For  general  pui-jioses,  Limerick  hooks, 
ringed  and  bent,  are  as  good  as  any.  A  supply  of  gut-snelled 
hooks  is  desirable  for  use  in  the  perfectly  clear  waters  of 
certain  streams,  but  in  general  linen  snells  are  best.  The 
most  useful  sizes  of  hooks  range  from  610  downward,  though, 
of  course,  for  the  heavy  weights  the  larger  sizes  are  neces- 
sary.    Sinkers  must  be  provided  and  floats  are  often  useful. 


HINTS  TO   TRAVELLERS.  xvii 

Special  tackle  for  tarpon  and  kingfisli  is  described  under 
Eoute  82. 

Money.  A  list  of  towns  having  banks  or  bankers  is  given 
below.  A  supjjly  of  silver  quarter-dollars  and  of  nickel  five- 
cent  pieces  will  be  found  convenient,  as  small  change  is  apt 
to  be  scarce  away  from  tlie  larger  cities.  A  stock  of  one 
dollar  bills  is  jireferable  to  those  of  larger  denominations 
since  the  weighty  and  inconvenient  silver  dollar  is  in 
Florida  almost  invariably  tendered  in  change. 

Baxks.  ' 

Apopka,  Oranse  Conntv.— Bank  of  Apopka. 

Bartow,  Polk  Conuty.— Polk  County  Bank. 

Brooks\'ille,  Hernando  County. — Bank  of  BrooksvUIe  (not  incorporated). 

Daytoua,  Volusia  County. — Bank  of  Da.^tona. 

De  Laud  Volus:a  County. — F.  S.  Goodrich. 

Enstis,  Orange  County.— Bishop  Bros. 

Fernandina,  Nassau  County. — Bank  of  Femandina. 

Gainsville.  Alachua  County.— First  National  Bank.    H.  F.  Button  &  Co. 

Interlachen,  Putnam  County. — Taylor  A  Warren. 

Jacksonville,  Duval  County. — First  National  Bank.  The  Florida  Savinss 
Bank.  National  Bank  of  Jacksonville.  National  Bank,  State  of  Florida. 
State  Bank  of  Florida  (not  incorporated).    Ambler,  Marvin  &  Stockton. 

Key  West,  Monroe  County. — Bank  of  Key  West.    John  White  Bank. 

Kissinimee,  Osceola  County. — Kissimmee  Citv  Bank. 

Lake  City,  Columbia  County.— N.  S.  Collins  &  Co. 

Lakeland,  Polk  County. — L  J.  J.  Nleuwenkamp. 

Leesburs,  Sumter  County. — Morrison,  Stapylton  &  Co.    Yager  Bros. 

Ocala,  Marion  County.— The  Buffum  Loan  &;  Trust  Co.   First  National  Bank. 

Orlando,  Orange  Coiinty.— National  Bank  of  Orlando.  Orlando  Loan  &  Sav- 
ings Bank. 

Palatka.  Putnam  County.— First  National  Bank. 

Pensacola.  Escambia  County. — First  National  Bank  of  Pensacola.  Mer- 
chants' Bank.    F.  C.  Brent  &  Co. 

Punta  Gorda,  De  Soto  County. 

Sanford.  Orange  County. — First  National  Bank. 

Seville.  Volusia  County. — Bank  of  SeviiA^. 

St.  Augustine,  St.  Johns  County. — First  National  Bank. 

Stanton,  Marion  County.— The  Buffum  Loan  A  Tniet  Co. 

Tallahassee,  Leon  County. — B.  C.  Lewis  A  Son. 

Tampa,  Hillsboro  County.— First  National  Bank  of  Tampa. 

Tarpon  Springs. — Bank  of  Tarpon  Springs. 

Tavares,  Lake  County. — Bank  of  Tavares  (not  incorporated). 

Titusville,  Brevard  County. — Indian  River  Bank. 

Travelling  ExpenRes.  Individual  tastes  and  habits  of  ne- 
cessity govern  daily  expenses.  Lawful  rates  by  rail  in 
Florida  are  3  cents  a  mile  on  the  main  lines,  and  4  and  5  cents 
a  mile  on  branches  and  local  roads.  If  the  traveller  fi-e- 
quents  the  most  expensive  hotels  his  daily  bills  will  be  from 
S3  to  .?5  a  day,  or  even  more,   exclu.sive  of  "tips,"  but  in 


Xviii  HINTS   TO   TKAVELLEKS. 

most  of  the  resorts  comfortable  quarters  can  be  found  at 
lower  rates,  say  $2  a  clay,  or  §8  to  810  a  week.  With  reason- 
able economy  So  a  day  should  be  a  fair  average,  covering  all 
strictly  travelling  expenses,  and  leaving  something  to  spare 
for  emergencies.  It  is  earnestly  recommended  that  travel- 
lers give  only  reasonable  fees  to  attendants.  In  all  respect- 
able hotels  they  are  paid  good  wages  and  excessive  fees  tend 
to  lower  their  sense  of  duty.  Small  fees  of  five  or  ten  cents, 
given  on  the  spot  for  services  rendered,  secure  better  attend- 
ance, and  are  less  demoralizing  to  the  recipient  than  large 
fees  postponed  till  the  hour  of  departure. 

In  the  height  of  the  season  it  is  well  to  telegraph  in  ad- 
vance for  rooms.  If  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  a  hotel  an 
itemized  bill  should  be  called  for  at  least  once  a  week,  since 
errors  can  be  most  easily  corrected  when  fresh  in  mind. 
The  final  bill  should  be  called  for  several  hours  in  advance 
of  departure — the  night  before  in  case  of  an  early  morning 
start.  This  gives  time  for  the  inevitable  discussion  conse- 
quent upon  the  discovery  of  actual  or  supiDOsed  mistakes. 

In  many  of  the  small  hotels  away  from  the  principal  re- 
sorts, bathing  facilities  are  very  primitive,  if  not  wanting  al- 
together. A  pair  of  bathing  mittens  carried  in  a  waterproof 
sponge-bag,  so  that  they  can  be  packed  away  even  when  wet, 
has  been  found  an  untold  luxiiry  under  such  conditions  ; 
and  in  the  same  category  may  be  mentioned  a  cake  of  soap 
in  a  flannel  bag  of  its  own  (not  waterproofed).  Such  a  liag 
is  far  better  than  the  ordinary  travellers'  soap-box,  in  which 
the  soap  rapidly  deteriorates  when  not  2)''^cked  away  in  a 
perfectly  dry  state. 

Biding  and  Driving.  The  ordinary  Florida  road  is  not 
well  adapted  for  pleasure  driving,  but  there  are  certain  sec- 
tions of  the  State,  as  in  Marion  County,  where  a  carriage  may 
be  driven  for  many  miles  at  a  moderate  pace  through  the 
open  woods.  Elsewhere,  in  sections  where  clay  predomi- 
nates, as  in  Gadsden  and  Leon  Counties,  the  roads  are  excel- 
lent, save  in  wet  weather.  Near  the  coast,  too,  there  are  shell- 
roads  of  admirable  smoothness.  This  is  notably  the  case  at 
Fort  George  Island,  Duval  County,  in  the  vicinity  of  Jack- 
sonville, and  near  New  Smvrna.     Finallv.  the  ocean  beaches 


HINTS  TO   TRAVELLKRS.  xix 

from  Fernantliiia  south  to  Cape  Canaveral  are,  as  a  rule, 
23erfect  in  all  respects  for  driving  or  wheeling.  The  only 
drawback  is  that  for  an  hour  or  two  every  day  when  the  tide 
is  at  full  flood  the  tinest  part  of  the  driveway  is  under 
water. 

Equestrians  will  find  passably  good  saddle-horses  at  very 
reasonable  rates  almost  everywhere  in  the  State.  Eiding 
tlirough  the  woods  is  always  enjoyable,  and  a  gallop  on  the 
beaches  referred  to  above  is  exhilarating  beyond  descrip- 
tion. 

Walking  Trips.  Extended  pedestrian  excursions  are  not 
likely  to  be  undertaken  in  Florida,  or,  if  undertaken,  are  not 
likely  to  be  repeated.  Several  weighty  reasons  are  against 
them.  The  distance  from  one  place  of  interest  to  another  is 
usually  too  great  to  be  covered  on  foot  in  a  day.  The  coun- 
try roads  are  always  sandy,  save  in  rare  instances,  and  the 
scenery  is,  as  a  rule,  very  monotonous.  From  many  of  the 
resorts  pleasant  Vt'alks  may  be  taken  through  the  woods  or 
along  the  beaches.  Often  the  walking  is  easy  and  the 
ground  reasonably  clear  of  undergrowth  in  the  pine  woods 
as  well  as  in  the  hammocks,  but  where  the  saw  palmetto  is 
found  progress  is  always  difficult.  No  stranger  should  ven- 
ture into  Florida  woods  without  a  compass.  None  of  the 
signs  known  to  Northern  woodsmen  hold  good  here,  and 
bearings  are  very  easily  lost,  particularly  under  a  cloudy  sky 
or  when  night  is  coming  on. 

All  i3edestrians  in  Florida  will  sooner  or  later  form  the 
acquaintance  of  the  "red  bug,"  an  insect  almost  invisible 
as  to  size,  but  gigantic  in  his  power  of  annoyance.  High 
boots  or  tight  leggings,  afford  some  protection,  but  a  salt- 
water bath  (natural  or  artificial)  or  rubbing  with  alcohol 
or  ammonia  immediately  on  reaching  home  is  asi;re  prevent- 
ive of  ill  effects. 


XX  PAUA(iUAPH    lilSTOllY    OF   FLORIDA. 


Pjirjigraph  History  of  Florida. 

1497.  The  English  claim  to  priority  of  discovei*y  is  based 
on  the  following  passage  in  Sebastian  Cabot's  narrative  : 
"Despairing  to  find  the  passage  I  turned  back  again,  and 
sailed  down  by  the  coast  of  land  toward  the  equinoctial  fever 
with  the  intent  to  find  the  said  passage  to  India),  and  came 
to  that  part  of  this  firm  land  which  is  now  called  Florida, 
where  my  victuals  failing,  I  departed  from  thence  and  re- 
turned into  England."  During  the  same  year,  according 
to  Francisco  Adolpho  de  Varuhagen,  Americus  Vespucius 
coasted  the  whole  peninsula. 

1500-1502.  Gaspar  Corte-Eeal,  probably  a  Spanish  trader, 
furnished  data  from  which  was  traced  the  first  approximately 
correct  outline  of  the  North  American  coast,  clearly  indi- 
cating the  Floridian  peninsula  (Cantino's  map,  Lisbon,  1502, 
now  preserved  in  the  Biblioteca  Estense,  at  Modeua,  Italy). 

1513.  March  27.  Easter  Sunday  (Pascua  Florida,  in 
Spanish)  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon  sighted  the  coast  near  St. 
Augustine,  and  named  it  in  honor  of  the  day.' 

1513.  April  2.  He  landed  in  30°  8'  north  latitude,  prob- 
ably near  Fernandina. 

1513.  April  8.  He  took  formal  possession  in  the  name  of 
the  King  of  Spain. 

1516.  Diego  Miruelo,  a  pilot  and  trader,  discovered  a  bay, 
probably  Pensacola,  which  long  bore  his  name  on  Spanish 
maps.  Ponce  de  Leon  made  a  second  voyage  of  discovery, 
but  was  driven  oflf  by  the  natives,  who  killed  several  of  his 
men. 

1517.  February.  Francis  Hernandez  de  Cordova,  while 
on  a  slave-hunting  expedition,  landed  at  some  unidentified 
place  on  the  west  coast  of  Florida.  His  men  were  attacked 
by  the  natives  and  driven  off.  De  Cordova  himself  was  fa- 
tally wounded. 

1519.     Alonzo  Alvarez  de  Pineda  discovers  the  coast  in  the 


'  The  year  1512  is  usually  given  as  the  date  of  this  diBCOvery.    Justin  Winsor, 
Vcl.  n.,  cites  official  documents  proving  that  1513  is  the  correct  dat?. 


PARAGRAPH    HISTORY    oF    FLORIDA.  xxi 

vicinity  of  Peusacola,  and  proves  that  Florida  is  not  an 
island. 

1521.  February  or  March.  Ponce  de  Leon,  commissioned 
as  governor  "  of  the  Island  Florida,"  landed  at  some  point 
i:)robably  not  far  from  St.  Augiistiue,  and  attempted  to  take 
possession.  He  was  fatally  wounded  in  a  fight  with  the  na- 
tives, and  the  settlement  was  abandoned. 

Francisco  Gordillo  and  Pedro  de  Quexos,  sent  out  by 
Lucas  Vasquez  de  Ayllon,  discovered  a  large  river  and  named 
it  St.  John  the  Baptist.  They  kidnapped  about  seventy  of  the 
friendly  natives,  and  earned  them  away.  TJiese  Indians 
were  subsequently  retui'ned  to  their  homes. 

1525.  Pedro  de  Quexos  returned,  by  order  of  Ayllon, 
regained  the  good-will  of  the  Indians,  and  explored  the 
coast  for  two  hundred  and  fifty  leagues,  setting  up  stone" 
crosses  bearing  the  name  of  Charles  V.  of  Spain,  and  the 
date  of  taking  possession. 

1528.  April  14.  Pamphilo  de  Narvaez  with  a  fleet  of  five 
vessels,  containing  four  hundred  men  and  eighty  horses, 
landed  in  Bahia  de  la  Cruz  (perhaps  Clearwater  Harbor). 
The  fleet  was  sent  along  the  coast,  while  the  army  marched 
inland  and  perished,  all  save  four,  who  escaped  after  eight 
years  of  cajitivity. 

1539.  May  25.  Hernando  de  Soto  reached  Tampa  Bay, 
and  named  it  Esj^iritu  Santo.  His  force  was  five  hundred 
and  seventy  men,  with  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  horses 
and  a  comjilete  outfit.  He  mai-ched  northward  and  westward, 
treating  the  Indians,  friend  and  foe  alike,  with  cruel  treachery 
and  violence.  Passing  beyond  the  present  boundaries  of 
Florida  he  discovered  the  Mississippi  River,  where  he  died 
and  was  buried  beneath  its  waters. 

1549.  June  25.  Father  Luis  Canca  de  Barbastro,  in 
charge  of  a  missionary  exiiedition,  landed  near  Clearwater 
Harbor,  and  was  killed  by  the  Indians  with  four  of  his  asso- 
ciates. 

1559.  July  1.  Tristan  de  Luna  y  Arellano,  with  one 
thousand  five  hundred  soldiers  and  settlers,  landed  in  Ichuse 
(Santa  Rosa)  Bay.  A  hurricane  almost  destroyed  his  fleet, 
on  Sejitember  19th.     Explorations  Avere  undertaken,  but  re- 


xxii  i'AIlAGKAl'H   IIISTOKY   OF   FLORIDA. 

suited  iu  no  discoveries  of  importance.  Mutinies  followed 
among  the  troops,  and  eventually  the  settlement  was  aban- 
doned. 

15G2.  May  1.  Jean  Bibaut,  a  French  Huguenot,  with  a 
colony  of  the  same  faith,  entered  the  St.  John's  Kiver,  re- 
named it  La  RiviLve  do  Mai,  and  erected  a  stone  monument 
bearing  the  arms  of  France.  No  attemjjt  at  permanent  set- 
tlement was  made  at  this  time. 

15(54:.  June  22.  Rene  de  Laudonniere,  a  French  Hugue- 
not, discovered  the  harbor  of  St.  Augustine  and  named  it  La 
Riviere  des  Dau2)hines. 

1564.  July.  Fort  Caroline  built  by  the  French,  i)rob- 
ably  at  St.  John's  Bluflf,  near  the  mouth  of  the  "  River  of 
May"  (St.  John's). 

■  1565.  August  3.  Sir  John  Hawkins  entered  the  river, 
relieved  the  wants  of  the  French  colony,  and  told  Laudon- 
niere of  an  intended  Spanish  attack. 

1565.  August  28.  Pedro  Meuendez  d'Aviles,  with  a 
strong  Spanish  fleet,  reached  the  coast  north  of  Cape  Canav- 
eral. 

1565.  August  28.  He  discovered  St.  Augustine  harbor 
and  named  it  after  Aurelius  Augustinus,  Bishop  of  Hippo. 

1565.  August  28.  Ribaut  reached  the  St.  John's  with  re- 
enforcements  for  the  French. 

1565.  September  i.  Menendez  arrived  at  the  St.  John's 
River  and  prepared  to  give  battle  to  the  French,  who  put  to 
sea,  pursued  by  the  Sjianiards. 

1565.  September  5.  Menendez  returned  to  find  that 
more  French  ships  had  arrived.  He  retreated  to  St.  Augus- 
tine and,  finding  the  natives  friendly,  founded  the  city  on 
its  present  site,  the  oldest  in  the  United  States. 

1565.  September  8.  Menendez  landed  the  greater  part 
of  his  force  and  took  formal  possession  of  St.  Augustine  in 
the  name  of  the  King  of  Spain. 

1565.  September  10.  Ribaut's  fleet  wrecked  in  a  hurri- 
cane near  Canaveral. 

1565.  September  29.  Menendez  received  the  surrender 
of  an  advance  party  of  the  French  who  survived  the  wreck 
of  their  fleet  at  Matanzas  Inlet,  and  put  111  of  them  to 


PARAGRAPH   HISTORY   OF   FLORIDA.  xxiii 

death.  Sixteen  wlio  i^rofessed  to  be  Catholic^  were  spared, 
at  the  intercession  of  the  Spanish  chaplain. 

1565.  September  30.  Meuendez,  having  marched  over- 
land with  500  men,  surprised  and  put  to  death  the  Freucli 
garrison  at  Fort  Caroline.  A  few  escaped,  including  Lau- 
donniere,  the  commander. 

1565.  October  1.  Laudonniere  and  the  survivors  of  the 
massacre  escaped  to  sea  in  two  small  vessels. 

1565.  October  10.  Ribaut,  with  the  rest  of  the  surviv- 
ing French,  reached  Matanzas.  About  half  of  them  sur- 
rendered and  were  put  to  death.  The  rest  retreated  to  Ca- 
naveral and  built  a  fort. 

1565.  November  8.  Menendez  attacked  the  French  at 
Canaveral.     Most  of  them  surrendered  and  were  spared. 

1565-66.  (Winter.)  The  French  survivors  who  had  es- 
caped to  the  woods  incited  the  Indians  to  attack  Fort  Caro- 
line, which  the  Spaniards  had  renamed  San  Mateo. 

1566.  March  20.  Menendez  returned  to  St.  Augustine 
from  a  voyage,  quelled  a  mutiny  with  difficulty,  relieved  San 
Mateo,  reorganized  the  garrisons,  and  sailed  for  Sjjain,  which 
he  reached  in  July. 

1568.  April.  Domenique  de  Gourgues,  with  the  avowed 
intention  of  avenging  the  massacre  at  Matanzas,  captured 
the  Spanish  forts  on  the  St.  John's  River,  hanged  the  surviv- 
ors of  the  fight,  and  destroyed  the  fortification. 

1568-1586.  European  interest  in  Florida  languished. 
Settlements  were  sustained  mainly  through  the  personal  ef- 
forts of  Menendez. 

1586.  Sir  Francis  Drake,  the  English  freebooter,  at- 
tacked St.  Augustine.  The  Spaniards  fled,  offering  scarcely 
any  resistance,  and  the  place  was  burned.  After  Drake's  de- 
jiarture  the  people  returned  and  began  to  rebuild  the  town. 

1593.  Twelve  Franciscan  missionaries  were  distributed 
among  the  Indians  on  the  east  coast. 

1598.  The  Franciscan  missionaries  were  nearly  all  killed 
by  the  Indians. 

1612-13.  Thirty-one  Franciscans  sent  from  Spain, 
Florida  constituted  a  Religious  Province  of  the  Order,  and 
named  St.  Helena. 


Xxiv  I'AKACJllAPH    inSTOKV    OF   FLORIDA. 

1638.  War  between  Spanish  colonists  and  tlie  Apalachee 
tribe,  resulting  in  the  subjugation  of  the  Indians. 

1605.  St.  Augustine  pillaged  by  English  freebooters  un- 
der Captain  John  Davis.  Tiie  Spaniards  made  little  or  no  re- 
sistance. 

165.5.  The  hereditary  governorship  of  the  Menendez  fam- 
ily terminated,  and  was  succeeded  by  Diego  de  Eebeilado, 
as  Captain-General. 

1(J75.     Don  Juan  Hita  de  Salacar  became  Captain-General. 

1680.  Don  Juan  Marquez  Cabrera  became  Captain-Gen- 
eral. 

1678.  The  commandant  of  St.  Augustine  sent  out  a  suc- 
cessful expedition  against  the  English  and  Scotch  settlements 
near  Port  Royal. 

1687.  A  large  consignment  of  negro  slaves  brought  to 
Florida  by  one  De  Aila. 

1681.  The  Governor  (Cabrera)  attempted  to  remove  sev- 
eral Indian  tribes  to  the  islands  on  the  coast.  Hostilities 
followed,  many  Christian  Indians  were  killed  and  others 
carried  away  as  slaves. 

1696.  Under  authority  of  the  Viceroy  of  New  Spain  a 
settlement  was  made  at  Pensacola,  and  Fort  Charles  was 
built. 

1702.  September  and  October.  Governor  Moore  of  South 
Carolina  laid  siege  to  St.  Augustine,  by  land  and  sea.  The 
town  was  occujsied  and  burned,  but  the  castle  (the  present 
Fort  Marion)  held  out.  Two  Spanish  vessels  appeared  and 
Governor  Moore  withdrew,  losing  his  transports. 

1703-4.  Governor  Moore  sent  an  expedition  into  MvJdle 
Florida  mainly  directed  against  the  Indians  friendly  to  Spain. 
He  destroyed  several  towns  and  carried  off  many  Indians  to 
slavery,  at  the  same  time  defeating  the  Spaniards  under  Don 
Juan  Mexia,  who  came  to  the  aid  of  their  Indian  allies. 

1708.  Colonel  Barnwell  of  South  Carolina  invaded  Mid- 
dle Florida  and  raided  through  the  Alachua  country  east- 
ward to  the  St.  John's  River.  About  the  same  time  Captain 
T.  Nairn  of  the  same  forces  penetrated  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  St.  John's,  and  possibly  to  the  Okeechobee  region, 
bringing  back  a  number  of  slaves. 


PARAGRAPH    HISTORY   OF    FLORIDA.  XXV 

1718.  March.  Fort  San  Marcos  cle  Apalacbe  erected  at 
St.  Mark's  by  Spaniards  under  authority  of  the  Governor  of 
St.  Augustine.  About  the  same  time  the  French  estab- 
lished Fort  Crevecoeur  at  St.  Joseph's  Bay,  but  soon  aban- 
doned it  and  the  Spaniards  took  possession. 

1718.  May  14.  The  French  under  Bienville,  the  com- 
mandant at  Mobile,  attacked  the  Spaniards  at  Pensacola, 
and  mainly  by  stratagem  captured  the  entire  garrison,  who 
were  sent  to  Havana  in  accordance  with  a  promise  made  be- 
fore the  surrender. 

1718.  Two  Spanish  ships  appeared  off  Pensacola,  and 
after  a  brief  bombardment  received  the  surrender  of  the 
French  commander.  The  fortifications  were  at  once  strongly 
garrisoned,  and  an  im successful  attack  was  made  on  the 
French,  who  still  held  Dauphin  Island. 

1719.  September  18.  After  a  series  of  actions  the  Span- 
ish at  Pensacola  surrendered  to  the  combined  land  and 
naval  forces  of  the  French  under  Desnade  de  Ohampsmelin. 
Pensacola  was  destroyed  and  abandoned,  and  the  cajitured 
Spaniards  were  taken  to  France  as  prisoners  of  war. 

1722.  Pensacola  reocciapied  by  the  Spaniards  on  declara- 
tion of  peace,  and  the  town  rebuilt  on  Santa  Rosa  Isl- 
and. 

1727.  Colonel  Palmer  of  South  Carolina,  after  certain  un- 
successful negotiations  with  the  Spanish  authorities  in  Flor- 
ida, made  a  descent  upon  the  northern  part  of  the  jarovince, 
and  with  the  aid  of  Indian  allies  hari'ied  the  whole  country 
to  the  gates  of  St.  Augustine,  capturing  many  slaves  and 
driving  off  much  live  stock. 

1736.  Spain  formally  claimed  all  territory  south  of  St. 
Helena  Sound,  as  part  of  her  Floridian  jjossessions,  and 
warned  England  to  withdraw  her  colonists.  Futile  negotia- 
tions followed. 

1739.  October.  AVar  declared  between  England  and 
Spain,  because  of  alleged  encroachments  by  both  parties  in 
the  provinces  of  Georgia  and  Florida.  Governor  Oglethorpe 
of  Georgia,  having  already  prepared  a  force,  at  once  invaded 
the  disputed  territory. 

1739.     December.     A  detachment   of   OgletlioiiDe's    men 


X.wi  rAllACJUAI'll    UISTOIIY    OF    FLUmDA. 

attacked  Fort  Poppa  on  the  St.  John's  Uiver,  opposite  Pico- 
lata,  but  were  repulsed  by  tlie  Spaniards. 

1740.  Jaiinaiy.  Fort  at  Picolata  captured  by  the  Eng- 
lish. 

1710.  Juue  20  till  July  7.  Siege  of  St.  Augustine  by 
the  English  under  Major-Geueral  James  Edward  Oglethovjie, 
Governor  of  Georgia.  The  defence  was  successfully  con- 
ducted by  a  Spanish  garrison  of  750  men  under  Don  Manuel 
de  Monteano. 

1742.  July  5.  Monteano  led  an  expedition  against  Ogle- 
thorpe, sailing  from  St.  Augustine.  He  was  repulsed  after 
having  forced  the  English  to  abandon  their  first  position. 

1743.  March,  General  OglethoriDe  invaded  Florida,  and 
surprised  the  garrison  of  St.  Augustine,  killing  some  forty 
men  before  they  could  gain  the  citadel.  Oglethorpe  with- 
drew, not  being  prepared  to  conduct  a  siege. 

1748.  Suspension  of  hostilities  by  treaty  between  Great 
Britain  and  Spain. 

1750.  As  the  result  of  a  tribal  quarrel  among  the  Creek 
Indians  in  Georgia,  Secoftee,  a  noted  chief  of  the  tribe, 
headed  a  movement  for  secession,  and  with  a  large  number 
cf  followers  settled  in  tlie  Alachua  country,  Florida.  These 
Indians  became  known  as  Semiuoles,  i.e.,  seceders,  out- 
laws. 

1762.  Hostilities  renewed  between  Spain  and  Great  Brit- 
ain.    The  English  capture  Havana. 

1763.  February  10.  By  treaty  Great  Britain  and  Sjiain 
effected  an  exchange  of  Cuba  for  Florida,  and  the  English 
at  once  took  possession  of  Florida,  and  General  James  Grant 
was  appointed  Governor. 

1765.  The  "  King's  Road,"  constructed  from  St.  Augus- 
tine to  the  St.  Mary's  River. 

1766.  Forty  families  emigrated  from  Bermuda  to  Mos- 
quito Inlet. 

1767.  Colony  of  1.500  Minorcans  cstablislied  by  Dr.  Turn- 
bull  at  Mosquito  Inlet  (New  Smyrna). 

1776.  Colony  at  New  Smyrna  broken  up  because  of  al- 
leged harsh  treatment. 

1774.     In  view  of  the  disaffectiau  of  the  northern  colonies 


PARAGRAPH  HISTORY   OP   FLORIDA.  XXVli 

isendiiig  the  war  for  Independence,  immigration  of  loyalists 
was  encouraged  from  Georgia  and  the  Caroliuas.  A  consid- 
erable number  settled  near  St.  Augustine. 

1775.  August.  An  American  privateer  captured  the 
British  supply  ship  Betsey,  off  the  harbor  of  St.  Augustine, 
iu  sight  of  the  British  garrison. 

1778.  Nearly  7,000  loyalists  moved  into  Florida  from 
Georgia  and  the  Oarolinas. 

1779.  September.  Hostilities  resumed  between  Spain 
and  Great  Britain. 

1780.  Sixty -one  jsrominent  South  Carolinians  sent  to  St. 
Augustine  by  the  British  authorities  as  i^risoners  of  State. 

1781.  March — May.  The  Sijaniards  tinder  Don  Bernardo 
de  Galvez,  with  a  naval  force  under  Admiral  Solana,  invested 
Pensacola,  which  was  defended  by  about  1,000  English  under 
General  Oami)bell.  A  chance  explosion  of  a  magazine  com- 
pelled the  surrender  of  the  English,  who  caijitulated  on 
honorable  terms  to  a  largely  superior  force. 

1783.  Colonel  Devereaux,  a  loyalist  fugitive  from  Caro- 
lina, sailed  from  St.  Augustine  with  two  privateers  and  cap- 
tured the  Bahama  Islands,  then  held  by  the  Spaniards. 
They  have  ever  since  remained  under  the  British  flag. 

1783.  September  3.  Independence  of  the  American  col- 
onies— not  including  Florida,  which  had  taken  no  part  in  the 
struggle — acknowledged  by  Great  Britain.  Upon  this 
Florida  was  ceded  back  to  Si)ain,  Great  Britain  retaining  the 
Bahamas.  English  subjects  were  allowed  eighteen  months  to 
move  their  effects.  The  crown  transported  most  of  them  to 
England,  the  Bahamas,  and  Nova  Scotia. 

1784.  Zespedez,  the  new  Spanish  governor,  arrived  at  St. 
Augustine  and  took  possession. 

1795.     Spain  receded  West  Florida  (Louisiana)  to  France. 

1811.  In  view  of  probable  war  with  England  the  United 
States  Congress  resolved  to  seize  Florida  in  order  to  prevent 
the  English  from  taking  possession. 

1812.  March  17.  A  number  of  persons  styling  themselves 
"  patriots  "  met  at  St.  Mary's  and  organized  the  Republic  of 
Florida.  Aided  by  United  States  gunboats  they  took  pos- 
session of  Fernandina,  elected  a  governor,  and  shortly  after- 


xxviii      PAKACRArn  history  of  Florida. 

ward  niarclied  upon  St.  Augustine,  but  were  repulsed. 
The  United  States  soon  withdrew  its  open  support,  but  the 
"patriots"  continued  towage  war  on  their  own  resjionsi- 
bility,  aided  by  American  volunteers. 

1814.  August.  A  British  force  under  Colonel  Nichols  oc- 
cni)ied  Pensacola  with  the  consent  of  the  Simnish  comman- 
dant and  hoisted  the  British  flag. 

1814.  November  14.  Pensacola  captured  by  United 
States  forces  under  General  Andrew  Jackson.  The  English, 
presumably  with  Spanish  connivance,  built  and  armed  a 
fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Apalachicola  River  and  garrisoned 
it  with  Indians  and  negroes. 

1816.  August.  The  fort  on  the  Apalachicola  was  attacked 
by  a  combined  force  of  Americans  and  friendly  Indians 
under  Colonel  Clinch,  and  captured  after  one  of  the  maga- 
zines had  been  exploded  by  a  hot  shot.  During  this  time 
Florida  was  in  a  state  of  anarchy,  and  Indian  forays  into 
Georgia  were  frequent. 

1818.  April  7.  General  Jackson,  with  a  force  of  Ameri- 
cans, severely  chastised  the  Florida  Indians,  capturing  a 
formidable  fort  at  St.  Marks. 

1818.  May  25.  Pensacola,  which  had  been  reoccupied  by 
the  Spaniards,  surrendered  to  General  Jackson  by  the  Span- 
ish after  slight  resistance. 

1819.  February  22.  Florida  ceded  by  Spain  to  the 
United  States. 

1821.  February  19.  Treaty  of  cession  formally  rati- 
fied. 

1821.  July  10.  The  Spanish  flag  hauled  down  and  the 
United  States  flag  hoisted  in  its  place  at  St.  Augustine.  A 
like  ceremony  took  place  at  Pensacola  on  July  21st. 

1822.  March  30.  By  act  of  Congress  Florida  was  made 
a  territory  of  the  United  States,  and  organized  as  such. 

1822.  June.  The  first  legislative  coimcil  met  at  Pen- 
sacola and  created  four  counties  :  Escambia,  Jackson,  St. 
John's,  and  Duval. 

1823.  September  18.  Treaty  of  Fort  Moultrie  made  with 
the  Indians,  inducing  them  to  confine  themselves  to  a  reser- 
vation. 


PARAGRAPH  HISTORY   OF   FLORIDA.  xxix 

1823.  October.  Tallahassee  selected  as  the  territorial 
capital. 

1823-1835.  Settlers  began  to  press  into  Florida  and  en- 
croach upon  Indian  reservations.  Treaties  were  made  and 
set  aside  looking  to  the  removal  of  the  Indians. 

1834.  April  12.  Proclamation  by  the  President  pursuant 
to  treaty  finally  adopted,  directing  the  removal  ofthe  Senii- 
noles  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

1835.  Autumn.  Friendly  Indians  murdered  by  those 
who  were  disposed  to  resist  the  execution  of  the  President's 
jiroclamation. 

1835.  December  25.  The  Seminoles  made  a  descent 
upon  New  Smyrna,  burned  all  the  houses,  and  laid  waste 
the  plantations.  Having  been  forewarned,  the  inhabitants 
escajjed. 

1835.  December  28.  Osceola,  the  Seminole  chief,  way- 
laid and  killed  General  Thompson,  the  Indian  Commissioner, 
at  Fort  King,  with  several  companions.  On  the  same  day 
the  command  of  Major  Dade,  U.S.A.,  110  strong,  was  am- 
buscaded and  massacred  by  Indians,  under  Chief  Micanopy, 
near  Dragem  Junction,  Sumter  County.  Four  soldiers 
feigned  death  and  escaped,  three  of  them  reaching  Tampa 
Bay.  Thus  began  the  Seminole  War,  which  lasted  seven 
years. 

1835.  December  31.  United  States  troops  under  Gen- 
eral Clinch  defeated  the  Indians  near  the  scene  of  Dade's 
massacre,  of  which  event  they  were  at  the  time  unaware. 

1836.  February  27 — March  6.  United  States  trooijs  under 
General  Gaines  attacked  by  a  large  force  of  Indians  while 
attempting  to  ford  the  Withlacoochee  Eiver.  The  troops 
intrenched  themselves,  and  were  besieged  for  several  days, 
with  constant  fighting,  until  their  provisions  were  nearly  ex- 
hausted, when  they  were  relieved  by  General  Clinch. 

1836.  June  9.  Indians  threatened  the  stockade  at  Mican- 
opy. United  States  forces  under  Major  Heileman  marched 
out  and  routed  them  after  a  sharp  fight. 

1836.  Aiigust  11.  Major  Pierce  attacked  Osceola's  band 
of  Micosukee  Indians  near  Fort  Drane,  and  routed  them. 

1836.     November  21.     Colonel  (late  Major)  Pierce  drove  a 


XXX  I'AUAGRAPH   HISTORY   OF   FLORIDA. 

large  force  of  Indians  into  the  Walioo  swamp,  but  no  de- 
cisive victory  could  be  gained,  owing  to  the  impenetrable 
nature  of  the  morass. 

1837.  January  20.  A  detachment, -marching  to  Jupiter 
Inlet  from  the  head  of  the  St.  John's  River,  found  Indians 
strongly  posted  on  the  banks  of  the  Loeohatchee.  After  at- 
tacking and  dispersing  the  Indians  a  stockade  (Fort  Jupiter) 
was  constructed  near  the  inlet. 

1837.  January  27.  Engagement  near  Hatcheelustee  Creek. 
The  Indians  were  routed  and  driven  into  Great  Cypress  Swamp. 

1837.  February  8.  Intrenched  camp  on  Lake  Munroe  at- 
tacked at  night  by  a  large  force  of  Seminoles.  The  Indians 
were  repulsed  with  heavy  loss. 

1837.  March  6.  Treaty  of  capitulation  signed  by  Gen- 
eral Thomas  S.  Jessup  and  Seminole  chiefs  at  Fort  Dade. 
A  large  number  of  Seminoles  nominally  surrendered  at  this 
time ;  the  influence  of  Osceola  and  the  warlike  faction 
proved  too  strong,  and  by  the  end  of  the  summer  hostilities 
were  resumed. 

1837.  October  12.  Osceola  and  seventy-one  of  his  band 
seized  by  order  of  General  Jessup  and  confined  as  prisoners 
of  war. 

1837.  December  25.  Colonel  Zachary  Taylor,  with  a 
strong  detachment,  following  the  main  body  of  the  Seminoles 
southward,  overtook  them  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Okeechobee. 
After  a  stubborn  fight,  lasting  several  hours,  the  Indians  fled. 
Taylor  lost  one-tenth  of  his  men  in  killed  and  wounded. 
This  action  terminated  concerted  resistance  on  the  part  of 
the  Indians.     After  this  they  fought  in  small  parties. 

1838.  March  22.  Colonel  Twiggs  captured  513  Indians 
and  165  negroes  near  Fort  Jupiter. 

1839.  May.  A  council  with  the  Seminole  chiefs  resulted 
in  an  official  declaration  of  peace. 

1839.  July.  The  Indians,  without  warning,  resumed  lios- 
tilities  in  all  parts  of  the  State.  Colonel  Harney's  command 
was  nearly  exterminated  at  Charlotte  Harbor  by  an  over- 
whelming force  of  Indians. 

1840.  August  7.  Government  station  on  Indian  Key  de- 
stroyed by  a  war  party  of  Indians.     Dr.  Perrine  killed. 


PARAGRAPH  HISTORY   OF  FLORIDA.  xxxi 

1840.  December.  Colonel  Hamey  conducted  an  expedi- 
tion througli  the  Everglades.  During  tlie  year  the  Indians 
adopted  the  plan  of  raiding  with  small  jaarties  and  the  whole 
State  was  harried  by  these  bands. 

1841.  May  31.  Colonel,  afterward  General,  William  J. 
Worth  was  given  command  of  the  United  States  forces  in 
Florida.  He  inaugurated  a  summer  campaign  which  proved 
eftective.  The  Indians  were,  during  the  winter  of  1841-42, 
either  captured,  killed,  or  driven  into  the  most  inaccessible 
swamps. 

1842.  April  19 — August  14.  The  Seminole  War  was  de- 
clared at  an  end.  The  surviving  Indians  were  removed  to 
Arkansas,  with  the  exception  of  about  360,  who  were  tacitly 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  Everglades. 

1845.  March  3.  Florida  admitted  to  the  Union  as  a 
State. 

1861.  January  6.  United  States  Arsenal  at  Chattahoochee 
seized  by  Florida  State  troops. 

1861.  Januaiy  7.  Fort  Marion,  St.  Augustine,  seized  by 
State  troops  (see  p.  151).  Fort  Clinch,  Fernandina,  occuj)ied 
the  same  day. 

1861.  January  10.  Ordinance  of  secession  adopted  by  the 
convention  assembled  at  Tallahassee. 

1861.  January  10.  United  States  trooijs  transferred  from 
Barrancas  Barracks  to  Fort  Pickens,  Pensacola  Harbor. 

1861.  January  12.  All  United  States  property  on  the 
mainland,  including  the  Navy  Yard  and  Forts  Barrancas  and 
McBae,  seized  by  Florida  State  troops,  the  commandant 
of  the  Navy  Yard  with  his  men  being  held  as  prisoners. 

1861.  Januaiy  12.  Formal  demand  made  for  the  sur- 
render of  Fort  Pickens  to  Florida  State  troops. 

1861.  January  14.  Fort  Taylor,  Key  West,  garrisoned  by 
United  States  troops. 

1861.  January  18.  Fort  Jefferson,  Tortugas,  garrisoned 
by  United  States  troops. 

1861.     April  12-17.     Fort  Pickens  reinforced. 

1861.  August  6.  The  blockade-runner  Alvarado  burned 
off  Fernandina. 

1861.    November  22.     Fort  Pickens  (Pensacola)  opens  fire 


XXxii  PAUAORAPII    HISTORY   OF   FLORIDA. 

upon  the  Con  federate  batteries  on  the  mainland.  An  artil- 
lery duel  continued  all  day, 

1862.     January  16.     Naval  attack  upon  Cedar  Key. 

1862.  March  3.  Amelia  Island  evacuated  by  the  Confed- 
erates, and  (March  4)  occupied  by  Federals, 

1862.    March  11.    Jacksonville  occupied  by  Federal  forces. 

1862.  March  14.  Brigadier- General  James  H.  Trapier, 
C.S.A.,  assigned  to  the  command  of  Middle  and  East  Florida. 

1862.  March  17.  Colonel  W.  8.  Dilworth  assigned  to  the 
command  of  Florida,  vice  Trapier,  transferred, 

1862,  March  23,  New  Smyrna  i:)artly  destroyed  by  Fed- 
erals. 

1862.  April  8.  Brigadier-General  Joseph  Finegan, 
C.S.A.,  assigned  to  the  command  of  Confederate  forces  in 
Florida. 

1862.  April  9.  Jacksonville  evacuated  by  the  Federal 
troops. 

1862,     April  10.     Skirmish  near  Fernandina. 

1862.  October  4.  Jacksonville  again  occupied  by  the 
Federals  and  shortly  afterward  abandoned, 

1863,  March  10.     Jacksonville  occupied  by  Federals, 

1863.  March  31.     Jacksonville  evacuated  by  Federals. 

1864.  February  7.     Jacksonville  reoccupied  by  Federals, 

1864,  February  20.  Battle  of  Olustee.  Defeat  of  the 
Federals, 

1865.  October  28.  End  of  the  Civil  War,  Ordinance  of 
secession  rej^ealed,  after  which  a  civil  government  under  the 
supervision  of  a  military  governor  (General  John  Pope)  was 
temporarily  established. 

1868.  July  41  The  fourteenth  amendment  to  the  Con- 
stitution of  the  United  States  having  been  adopted,  with  a 
new  State  constitution,  Florida  was  readmitted  to  the  Union 
and  military  supervision  withdrawn. 

1889,  June.  Discovery  of  highly  valuable  phosphate 
beds  at  Dunellon,  Marion  County,  followed  by  similar  dis- 
coveries in  dift'erent  parts  of  the  State. 


Alachua  County. 

Area,  1,260  sq.  m.— Lat.  29"  25'  to  29°  55'  N.— Long.  82°  to  82°  59'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  22,929.— Pop.  (1880),  16,462.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $3,193,000. 
— County  seat,  Gainesville. 

The  name  is  of  Indian  origin,  pronounced  al-latch-u-ah, 
with  the  accent  on  the  second  syllable.  Probably,  however, 
the  Indian  pronunciation  accentuated  the  last  syllable. 
The  name  was  originally  given  to  a  remarkable  chasm  in 
the  earth  near  Gainesville  (see  map),  and  is  said  to  mean  lit- 
erally "  the  big  jug  without  a  bottom;"  but  there  is  prob- 
ably a  conveyed  meaning  to  the  Seminole  ear  implying,  "  the 
place  where  the  waters  go  down."  The  settlement  of  this 
region  by  whites  was  effected  by  the  agents  of  Fernando  de 
la  Maza  Arredondo,  an  enterprising  Spanish  merchant  of 
Havana.  Messrs.  Dexter  and  Wanton,  under  his  authority 
and  led  by  the  accounts  given  by  Indians  of  the  high  roll- 
ing lands,  rich  soil,  heavy  forests,  and  abundant  lakes  and 
streams,  penetrated  to  the  vicinity  of  Gainesville  and  there 
established  a  trading-post.  The  Indian  accounts  proved 
true,  and  Arredondo  obtained  a  Spanish  grant  of  about 
289,645  English  acres — rather  more  than  one-quarter  of  the 
present  county  of  Alachua.  The  exact  date  of  the  original 
settlement  cannot  be  ascertained,  but  it  was  no  doubt  prior 
to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  when  the  whole 
interior  of  Florida  was  an  unexplored  wilderness,  and  the 
discoverer  of  a  fertile  tract  had  only  to  ask  for  a  grant  in 
order  to  secure  what  was  then  regarded  as  a  clear  title  from 
the  Spanish  crown. 

Alachua  is  classed  in  the  United  States  Government  re- 
ports as  in  the  long-leaf  pine  region.  It  contains,  however, 
tracts  of  oak  and  hickory,  hammocks  and  prairies.  The 
eastern  part  of  the  county,  at  the  point  of  highest  elevation, 
is  250  feet  above  tide-water  ;  the  western  part  about  70  feet. 
Near  the  Levy  county  line  is  a  range  of  sand-hills,  120  feet 
above  tide-water.  The  Cedar  Key  Eailroad  crosses  this 
range  between  Archer  and  Bronson.  Along  the  Santa  Fe 
and  Suwannee  Rivers  the  underlying  limestone  frequent- 
ly crops  out,  forming  picturesque  and   precipitous   banks. 


2  ALACHUA  COUNTY. 

crowned  with  rich  hammock.  From  northwest  to  south- 
east, crossing  the  county,  is  an  irregularly  detached  belt  of 
fine  hammock  lands,  the  substratum  of  which  is  the  peculiar 
disintegrated  limestone  of  this  region.  Oaks,  hickoiy,  gum 
trees,  bay,  magnolia,  beech,  maple,  and  other  hard  woods 
grow  here  in  great  luxuriance,  although  along  this  belt  the 
rock  is  but  thinly  covered  with  soil.  The  total  area  of  ham- 
mock land  is  about  2.440  acres.  It  is  of  two  grades,  "  black 
hammock,"  with  a  sandy  loam  soil,  brown  or  blackish  iu 
color,  and  nearly  a  foot  deep;  and  "gray  hammock,"  with 
a  lighter  soil  and  higher  percentage  of  sand,  underlaid  with 
sand  or  sand-rock. 

The  Suwannee  River  and  its  tributary  the  Santa  Fe  define 
the  western  and  northern  boundaries  of  the  county.  The 
first  named  is  navigable  for  steamers  throughout  this  section 
of  its  course,  and  the  second  as  far  as  Fort  White,  about  eight 
miles  above  the  confluence  of  the  two  streams.  In  the  west- 
em  jjart  of  the  county  are  countless  small  lakes  and  ponds, 
most  of  them  deep  and  well  supplied  with  fish.  They  are 
connected  by  natural  water-courses,  sometimes  on  the  siu'- 
face,  sometimes  subterranean,  and  curious  natural  wells  and 
"sinks"  are  of  frequent  occurrence.  These  wells  are  usu- 
ally perjiendicular  shafts,  three  or  four  feet  in  diameter,  de- 
scending through  solid  limestone  rock  to  a  depth  of  thirty 
or  forty  feet.  Water  strongly  imjiregnated  with  lime  is 
found  in  most  of  them,  but  some  are  dry  and  may  be  ex- 
plored. 

This  part  of  the  county  is  sparsely  settled  as  comparetL 
with  the  eastern,  especially  the  southeastern  section.  This, 
however,  renders  it  the  more  attractive  for  sportsmen  and 
campers.  Large  game  has  been  hunted  off  in  the  more 
thickly  settled  portions  of  the  county,  but  deer  and  turkey 
are  to  be  found  within  easy  driving  distance  of  almost  any 
of  the  towns  west  of  Gainesville,  and  the  ordinary  game 
birds  are  reasonably  abundant  everywhere. 

Large  lakes  are  found  in  the  eastern  and  especially  in  thj 
southeastern  portion  of  the  county.  Of  these  South  Pond 
and  Santa  Fo  Lake  are  joined  by  a  canal,  and  are  navi-f-able 
for  launches  and  small  steamboats.     Orange  Lake,  which 


4  ALACHUA  COUXTY. 

bounds  the  county  at  its  southeastern  corner,  is  an  irregular 
body  of  water,  the  largest  in  the  county,  but  shallow  and 
overgrown  with  aquatic  vegetation.  In  the  season,  these 
shallow  lakes,  are  frequented  by  water-fowl. 

The  remarkably  open  character  of  the  woods  at  once 
impresses  the  observant  traveller.  The  scrub  palmetto  is 
wholly  absent  over  large  tracts,  and  one  may  ride  or  drive 
comfortably  for  miles  through  a  virgin  forest  without  a  sign 
of  a  wagon  road  or  of  a  human  habitation. 

Among  the  crops  that  are  successfully  cultivated  in  Alachua 
are  artichokes,  beans,  beets,  cabbages,  celery,  cucumbers, 
egg-jilant,  lettuce,  okra,  onions,  parsnips,  peas,  jiotatoes 
(Irish  and  sweet),  pumpkins,  radishes,  squashes,  tomatoes, 
turnips,  arrow-root,  barley,  castor  beans,  cassava,  chufas, 
koouti,  corn,  cotton,  pea-nuts,  melons,  millet,  oats,  rice,  rye, 
sorghum,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  and  wheat.  Oranges  are 
grown  successfully  whenever  facilities  for  transportation 
render  it  possible  to  market  the  crop  to  advantage.  Peaches 
of  the  Pientau  and  other  early  varieties  are  cultivated  ;  the 
Leconte  pear  is  a  profitable  crop,  and  strawberries  in  veiy 
large  quantities  are  shipped  to  the  North  during  January, 
February,  and  March. 

The  Florida  Southern  Railway  (J.,  T.  &  K.  "W.  system)  en- 
ters the  county  from  the  westward,  Palatka  being  the  nearest 
station  of  importance.  The  stations  next  and  within  the 
county  are  : 

27. . .  .Cones  Crossing  {Putnam  Co.) 45 

I      29....Colgrove 43     E 

31... Hawthorne  ' 41     a 

Di8t.fr.  32....  Constantino's  Mill 40      i      Dist.fr. 

Palatka.      I      3.5 ...  Grove  Park 3T  Ocala. 

V     40....RGchelle''' 32 

W    45 Mi  canopy  Jc 2T     | 

47 Evinston  {Levy  Co.) 24 

'  Crosses  F.  C.  &.  P.  Ey.  (see  p.  5). 

2  Gainesville  Br.  (see  below).  For  continuation  of  this  Une  to  Ocala,  Lees- 
burg,  etc.,  sec  p.  G3. 

Gainesville  Branch  (J.,  T.  &  K.  "W.  .system)  : 

I      37....Eochelle' 8    E 

Di8t.fr.      1      41. ...Sink 4     a        Dist.  fr. 

Palatka.     V     42.  ...Oliver  Park 3      i      Gainesville. 

W    45.... Gainesville 2. 0 

'  Connects  with  main  line  (see  above). 

'  Connects  with  S.  F.  &  W.  Ry.  (see  p.  5),  and  Cedar  Key  Division  F.  C.  & 
P.  (see  p.  5). 


ALACHUA   COUNTY.  5 

The  main  line  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula  Railway 
enters  the  county  from  the  northeast  after  crossing  Santa 
Fe  River.     The  stations  next  and  within  the  county  are  : 


Dlst.  fr. 
Jackson- 

viUe. 


79 Hampton  {Bradford  Co.) 51 

85 ... .  Waldo  ' 45 

90 Orange  Heights 40 

94....Campville  36 

99. . .  .Hawthorne  = 31 

106 Lochloosa 24 

109 ....  Island  Grove 21 

112....Citra  {Lecy  Co.) 18 


Dist.  fr. 
Ocala. 


>  Cedar  Key  Branch,  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  below). 

2  Crosses  Gainesville  Branch,  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  For  continuation  of  this  line  to 
Ocala,  see  p.  63  ;  to  Jacksonville,  p.  9. 

Cedar  Key  Division,  F.  C.  &  P.,  crosses  the  county  south- 
westerly from  Waldo,  where  it  leaves  the  main  line. 

0...  Waldo 70 

;  6 . . .  Fairbanks 64    N  E 

14 Gainesville' 56       a 

18.   .. Hammock  Ridge 52  Dist. 

20...  Arredondo 59  fr.  Cedar 

21 Kanapaha 49  Key. 

V       24.... Palme:- 46       j 

SW    29. ...Archer 41       | 

38 Bronson  (Levy  Co.) 32 

'  Connects  with  Gainesville  Branch,  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  (see  p.  4),  and  with 
Gainesville  Division,  S.  F.  &  W.  (see  below).  For  continuation  southwest  to 
Cedar  Key,  see  p.  55  ;  northeast  to  Jacksonville,  Fernandina,  etc.,  see  p.  9. 


Diet.  fr. 
Waldo. 


The  Gaine.sville  Division,  8.  F.  &  W.  Ry.,  runs  northeast 
from  Gainesville  to  Lake  City  Junction,  Columbia  County. 
The  stations  are : 

0 Gainesville  ' 36 

TkJof  f,        I        11 Hague 25     SE     y..  .    , 

Gaines-        I        16 . . . .  Newnansville 20       a      LakeCitV 

Gaines        ^       23 ....  High  Springs 13  l^akeCity 

vine.       -^y^    33.... Fort  White 3       |  '''=• 

36 Lake  City  Jc.  (Co^Mmftia  Co.). . .   .  0 

'  For  continuation  northwest,  see  p.  17.  For  connectione  at  Gainesville,  see 
map. 


BAKER  COUNTY. 


Baker  County. 

Area,  500  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  10'  to  30"  25'  N.— Long.  82°  to  82°  30'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890).  3.312.— ReKistered  vote  (1889),  651.— Pop.  (1880),  2,312.— Aasessed 
valuation  (1888),  $544,308.— County  seat,  McClenny. 

The  northern  part  of  this  county  is  within  the  limits  of 
the  great  Okeefenokee  Swamp,  which  extends  to  the  nortli- 


BAKER  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


■ward  across  the  Georgia  State  line.  This  portion  of  the 
county  is  liardly  habitable,  but  is  rich  in  standing  timber 
which  is  rafted  down  the  tributaries  of  the  St.  Mary's  River 


BAKER  COUNTY— BRADFORD  COUNTY.       7 

to  tide-water  and  a  market,  or  else  finds  its  way  to  the  Florida 
Central  &  Peninsula  Railway  Company's  stations  in  the 
southern  tier  of  townships.  The  southern  part  of  the  county 
is  moderately  high  pine  land,  with  sandy  soil.  The  j^rinci- 
pal  shipments  are  turpentine  and  lumber,  with  an  increas- 
ing quantity  of  peaches  and  vegetables. 

Near  the  southwestern  corner  of  the  county  there  took 
place  the  most  considerable  engagement  that  occurred 
within  the  State  during  the  Civil  War. 

The  Western  Division  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Penin- 
sula Railway  crosses  east  and  west  near  the  southern  border. 
The  stations  next  to  and  within  the  couutv  are  : 


19.   ..Baldwin  (Dwi'aZ   Co.) 186  E 

I      2S....McClenny 177  a 

Dist.  '      30 ....  Glen  St.  Mary 175  i 

fr.  Jackson-      '      37 Sanderson 168  j 

villa.  39....  Pendleton 166  | 

V     47....01sutee 153  ; 

W    52. . .  .Mt.  Carrie  {Columbia  Co.) 153 


Dist.  fr. 
River  Jc. 


Bradford  County. 

Area,  550  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  40'  to  30°  10'  N.— Long.  82°  to  82°  40'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  7,502.— Registered  vote  (1889),  1,370.— Pop.  (1880),  6,167.— Highest 
elevation,  210  ft.  (Trail  Ridge).— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,124,763.— County 
seat,  Starke. 

Bradford  County  is  classified  in  the  long-leaf  pine  region. 
The  best  land  is  gently  rolling,  with  sandy  loam,  well  suited 
for  the  cultivation  of  cotton,  corn,  vegetables,  fruits,  and 
rice.  The  most  fertile  land  is  found  along  the  lakes  and 
water-courses — mainly  in  the  southern  and  eastern  sections. 
Second  class  is  for  the  most  part  a  yellow  sandy  loam,  covered 
with  pine  forests.  It  is  capable,  however,  of  producing  fair 
crops  of  oats,  itc,  and  barley.  The  third-class  land  is  sandy 
and  low,  covered  with  scrub  palmetto  and  underlaid  with 
a  compact  "hard  pan."  Cypress  ponds  abound  in  the  east- 
ern and  northeastern  sections,  and,  besides  their  timber,  af- 
ford valuable  beds  of  muck,  readily  available  for  fertilizing 
jDurjioses. 

Swift's  Creek,  Olustee  Creek,  New  River,  and  Samson 
River  are  tributaries  of  the  Santa  Fe,  which  in  turn  flows 
through  the  Suwannee  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.    These  streams 


8  IiUAI)F<JHI)   COUNTY. 

are  all  available  for  raftiug  purposes,  and  many  of  them 
aflford  good  mill-sites.  The  more  considerable  lakes  are 
South  Prong  Pond,  one  of  the  sources  of  Olustee  Creek  (200 
acres)  ;  Swift  Creek  Pond  (700  acres),  Lake  Butler  (700 
acres),  Samson  Lake  (2,200  acresj,  Crosby  Lake  (800  acres), 


Eowell  Lake  (800  acres).  At  the  southeastern  comer,  be- 
tween Bradford  and  Alachua  Counties  is  Santa  Fe  Lake,  the 
source  of  the  river  of  that  name,  137  feet  above  the  sea.  It 
is  the  largest  body  of  water  adjacent  to  the  county,  some 
eight  miles  long  with  its  connections,  and  aftbrding  water 
transportation  to  "Waldo,  a  railroad  station  near  the  head  of 
the  South  Pond. 

The  main  line  of  the  Florida  Central  Jc  Peninsula  Railway 


BRADFORD   COUNTY— BREVARD   COUNTY.  9 

crosses  N.X.E.    and   S.S.W.    in    the  eastern  tier  of   town- 
ships.    The  stations  next  to  and  within  the  county  are  : 

61. . .  .Highland  {Clay  Co.)  69 

I         66....Lawtev 64     NNE 

Dist.  fr.  6T>6..Bunm 63        a        riist  fr 

Jack-  I         71.... Temple 5S         I  n!.oio 

60n\'iLle.        V        73.... Starke 5T  "*^^'^- 

SSW     79...  Hampton 51  ' 

85 Waldo  (Alachua  Co.) 45 

For  continuation  of  this  line  to  Jacksonville,  see  p.  16 ;  to  Cedar  Key,  see 
p.  5. 


Brevard  County. 

Area,  3,000  sq.  m.— Lat.  27"  10'  to  28°  50'  N.— Long.  80°  10'  to  81°  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  3,399.— Pop.  (1880),  1,478.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,007,474.— 
County  seat,  Titusville. 

The  present  county  was  formed  from  St.  Lucie  County,  in 
January,  1855.  The  county  seat  was  successively  at  Fort 
Pierce  or  Susannah  (1855  to  1864),  Bassville  (1864  to  1873), 
Lakeville  (1873  to  1879),  and  finally  at  Titusville,  or,  as  it  was 
formerly  known,  Sandy  Point.  In  1879  the  southern  part 
of  Volusia  County  was  added  to  Brevard,  so  that  the  county 
now  includes  108  miles  of  Atlantic  Sea-coast,  practically  em- 
bracing the  whole  of  the  Indian  River  with  its  dependencies, 
and  nearly  covering  two  degrees  of  latitude.  The  coast-line 
forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  this  tract,  its  general  trend 
being  N.N.E.  by  S.S.E.  The  western  boundary  is  defined 
for  about  twenty  miles  by  the  St.  John's  River,  and  then 
follows  a  township  meridian  southward  to  Lake  Okeechobee, 
the  great  inland  sea  of  Central  Florida.  The  greatest  width 
is  on  the  southern  boundary,  about  forty-two  miles,  marked 
by  a  township  line  from  Okeechobee  to  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Lucie  River. 

Fronting  the  ocean  is  a  strip  of  beach,  broken  by  occa- 
sional inlets,  and  usually  varying  in  width  from  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  to  a  mile.  This  is  covered  for  the  most  part  with 
a  heavy  growth  of  timber,  and  rarely  rises  to  a  height  of 
more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  high-water  mark.  West 
of  this  is  Indian  River,  a  narrow  strait  or  lagoon,  averaging 
about  a  mile  in  width,  but  spreading  out  to  some  six  miles 


10  lUlKVARlJ   COCNTV, 

at  the  widest,  and  contracting  to  barely  a  Imndred  feet  at  the 
Narrows.  Near  the  head  of  the  river  are  large  islands  or 
peninsulas,  and  farther  south,  at  the  Jupiter  and  St.  Lucie 
Narrows,  are  innumerable  small  islands  separated  l)y  channels 
often  not  more  than  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  covered  with 
an  almost  impenetrable  growth  of  mangroves  and  other  troji- 
ieal  vegetation.  Indian  Eiver  is,  in  fact,  not  a  river  as  the 
term  is  ordinarily  understood.  It  is  a  great  lagoon  fed  by 
countless  fresh-water  streams,  but  oi^cn  to  the  ocean  through 
several  considerable  inlets,  in  which  the  salt  water  ebbs  and 
flows.  The  water  is  partly  salt  and  partly  fresh,  according 
to  the  state  of  the  tide,  or  the  distance  from  an  inlet,  or  from 
fresh-water  rivers  and  springs.  The  depth  averages  twelve 
feet  in  the  channel,  and  there  are  no  natural  obstacles  of  a 
dangerous  character  from  one  end  of  the  river  to  the  other. 
The  mainland  or  west  shore  of  the  Indian  River  varies  con- 
siderably in  height,  and  in  the  character  of  its  soil,  but  it 
offers  an  almost  unbroken  succession  of  desirable  building 
sites,  and  unsurpassed  lands  for  the  cultivation  of  citrus- 
fruits  and  pineapples. 

This  fertile  belt  is  comparatively  narrow.  To  the  west- 
ward stretches  a  wilderness,  as  yet  hardly  explored,  save  by 
the  hunter  and  surveyor,  and  still  haunted  by  the  large  game 
of  Florida — bears,  panthers,  wild  cats,  and  deer;  while  turkies 
and  the  lesser  varieties  of  wild-fowl  are  found  in  abundance. 
Much  of  this  wild  region  is  swamj^y,  and  there  are  many 
shallow  lakes  navigable  for  canoes. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  this  wilderness  was 
once  a  lagoon  and  that  in  the  course  of  time — a  few  thou- 
sand years  more  or  less — the  natural  processes  of  geological 
upheaval  and  accretion  will  convert  Indian  Eiver,  first  into 
a  morass,  and  then  into  dry  land,  while  jjerhaps  another 
beach  and  another  river  will  form  to  seaward. 

The  shores  of  Indian  River,  then,  are  substantially  the 
only  inhabited  portion  of  Brevard  County.  For  a  more  de- 
tailed description,  the  reader  is  referred  to  Routes  70  to  74. 

It  remains  to  describe  in  general  terms  the  climate  of  this 
coast,  and  this  is  best  done  by  reference  to  the  reports  of  the 
United  States  Signal  Service. 


BREVARD  COUNTY 


SCALE  OF  MILES 

lu,      l-l      t-l       I—       1-1       I 

0  6        ao 


BREVARD  COUNTY— CALHOUN  COUNTY.     11 

The  Indian  Eiver  Division  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa, 
&  Key  West  system  at  present  ends  at  Titusville,  near  the 
northern  boundary.  The  stations  next  to  and  within  the 
county  are  : 

I      23....Maytowii  18    jj 

Dist.fr.  31 Aurantia 10  Diet  fr 

Enterprise     ^     35....Mims    6     ^     TitusVille. 

Jc.  Q    37 La  Grange 4 

*    41 ... .  TitusviUe 0 

For  continuation  of  this  line  nortli  and  south  from  Enterprise  Junction,  see 
pp.  70,  97.    For  steamboat  routes  from  Titusville,  see  Route  70. 


Calhoun  County. 

Area,  1,160  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  40'  to  30°  30'  N.— Long.  8.5°  to  85°  40'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890).  1,G71.— Pop.  (1880),  1,580.— Assessed  valuation,  $352,862.— County 
seat,  BIonutstowTi. 

This  county  was  organized  with  its  present  boundaries  in 
1874.  It  was  named  after  John  C.  Calhoun,  a  prominent 
Southern  statesman,  who  died  in  1850.  The  land  is  sandy, 
with  clay  subsoil  and  underlying  limestone  ;  for  the  most  part 
heavily  timbered  and  within  easy  reach  of  water  transporta- 
tion. The  Apalachicola  River,  navigable  for  steamers,  forms 
the  eastern  boundary,  and  nearly  parallel  to  it  are  the  Chi- 
pola  River  and  Brothers  River,  both  of  them  navigable  ex- 
cept during  low  water.  The  bottom-lands  along  the  rivers, 
especially  the  Apalachicola,  are  rich  alluvial  deposits  of  in- 
exhaustible fertility,  but  subject,  of  course,  to  periodical 
overflow.  Sjorings  of  excellent  water  abound  throughout 
the  county,  and  the  pine  lands  are  for  the  most  jjart  of  good 
quality. 

"West  of  the  Apalachicola  the  Chiiaola  River  widens  into 
Dead  Lakes,  sunken  areas  with  dead  cypress-trees  standing 
or  lying  in  water  ten  to  twenty  feet  deep.  It  is  thought  that 
the  subsidence  of  the  lake  bottoms  is  of  comparatively  recent 
occurrence.  This  region  can  only  be  penetrated  in  boats,  but 
it  offers  great  attractions  and  novel  experiences  to  sportsmen 
who  are  not  afraid  of  hard  work. 

St.  Joseph's  Bay  is  a  fine  body  of  navigable  water  with 
shores  well  adapted  for  camping. 


CAIiHOl  N  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


CITRUS  COUNTY. 


13 


Citrus  County. 

Area,  700  sq.  m.— Lat.  26°  40'  to  28°  10'  N.— Long.  82°  IC  to  82°  50'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  2,387.— Elevation  at  Mt.  Lee,  214  ft.— Assessed  valuation 
(ISSS),  $874,752.— County  seat,  Mannfield. 

This  county  was  organized,  June  2,  1887,  prior  to  ■Rhicli 
date  it  was  included  in  Hernando  County.  It  borders  upon 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  is  drained  by  the  Withlacoochee 
Eirer,  a  navigable  stream  forming  its  northern  and  eastern 


boundaries.  The  face  of  the  country  is  level  near  the  coast, 
covered  with  heavy  hammock  growth,  and  bearing  a  rich  soil 
of  varying  depth  underlaid  with  coraline  and  limestone  rock 
rich  in  phosphates.  Farther  inland  are  rolling  pine  lands 
rising  to  a  considerable  height.  The  climate  is  tempered  by 
the  Gulf  breezes,  and  northern  and  easterly  winds  are  of  very 
rare  occurrence.  Several  of  the  wonderful  springs  peculiar 
to  Florida  are  found  within  the  county.     The  fishing  and 


14  CITRUS   COUNTY— CLAY   COUNTY. 

limiting  arc  exceptionally  lino.  Along  the  coast  are  numer- 
ous shell-mounds  and  islands,  affording  excellent  building 
sites.  The  Homosassa  Eiver  and  its  vicinity  olfer  especial 
attractions  to  settlers,  tourists,  and  sportsmen. 

The  Gulf  Coast  is  bordered  by  countless  islands,  or  keys,  of 
limestone,  some  of  them  covered  with  mangroves,  others 
nearly  barren.  Navigation  is  very  dangerous  owing  to  reefs, 
shoals,  and  oyster-beds  that  extend  in  some  cases  miles  from 
the  coast.  There  are,  however,  two  harbors  accessible  for 
vessels  drawing  not  more  than  four  feet,  at  Crystal  Eiver, 
and  Homosassa. 

Citrus  is  a  rich  orange  country,  and  is  the  natural  home 
of  the  Homosassa  orange,  which  has,  jierhaps,  the  longest 
established  reputation  of  any  of  the  Florida  varieties,  and,  it 
is  said,  has  taken  more  prizes  than  any  other. 

The  Silver  Springs,  Ocala,  and  Gulf  Railroad  crosses  the 
county  from  Dunellon,  on  the  Withlacoochee  River,  to  Homo- 
sassa, near  the  Gulf  Coast.  The  stations  next  to  and  within 
the  county  are  : 

I      26 ... ,  Dmiellon  (Marion  Co.) 22 

■n!«f  ft.  34....Citrouelle U     A         rnot  *, 

^?n'i,  38.... Park  Place 10  j,^h.!i„, 

Ocala.        I      on       n...„„f„i  Q  Homosassa. 


.Park  Place 10 

39....  Crystal. 

48 Homosassa  0 


For  continuation  of  ttiis  line  to  Ocala,  see  p.  64. 


Clay  County. 

Area,  640  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  41'  to  30"  6'  N.— Long.  81°  85'  to  82°  1'  W.— 
—Population  (1890),  5,134.— Pop.  (1S80),  2,838.— Assessed  valuation  (1888), 
$1,200,000.— Elevation  on  Trail  Ridge,  150  feet.— County  seat.  Green  Cove 
Spring. 

Clay  County  was  organized  in  1856,  from  Duval  County, 
and  named  after  the  Hon.  Henry  Clay,  of  Kentucky,  United 
States  Senator  for  many  years,  and  a  candidate  for  the  Presi- 
dency in  1824  and  1844.  The  St.  John's  River,  separating 
Clay  County  from  St.  John's  County  on  the  east,  is  here  a 
noble  stream  varying  from  one  mile  to  three  miles  in  Avidth. 
Black  Creek,  one  of  its  tributaries,  is  navigable  for  steamers 
as  far  as  Middleburg,  where  two  smaller  branches  unite  to 
form  the  main  stream.  These  branches  find  their  source  re- 
spectively in  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of  the  coun- 


CLAY   COUNTY. 


15 


ty.  The  South  Fork  again  subdivides  into  Green's  Creek 
and  Ates  Creek,  "which  drain  the  lake  region  of  the  county. 
The  land  is  in  the  main  mode*-ately  high  pine,  interspersed 
with  hammock  and  scrub  oak.  The  best  plantations  lie 
along  the  St.  John's  River,  where  are  many  flourishing  orange- 


groves.  Through  this  portion  of  the  county  runs  the  main 
line  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  <fe  Key  West  Railway,  af- 
fording direct  and  easy  communication  with  all  jjoints  north 
and  south.  The  lake  region  is  largely  unoccupied  as  yet, 
but  has  abundant  natural  attractions  for  the  sportsman  as 
well  as  for  the  permanent  settler. 


Ifi 


CLAY  COUNTY— COLUMBIA  COUNTY. 


The  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ey.  follows  the  west  bank  of  the  St. 

John's  River.     The  stations  within  and  near  the  county  are  : 

11 ... .  Reed's  {Duval  Co.) 114 

14  . .  .Orange  Park Ill    N 

18.... Peoria 107     a 

20....  Black  Creek • 105 

Dipt.  24...  Fleming 101  Diet.  fr. 

fr.  Jackson-  23 Magnolia 97  Port 

ville.  29 . .   .  Green  Cove  Spring 96  Tampa. 

.SO Melrose  Crossing ' 95 

33....Wallkill 91 

S         ....WestTocol 84 

40 Bostwick  {Putnam  Co.) 79 

'  Branch  to  Florence  Mills  and  Sharon,  9  m.  southwest.  For  continuation  of 
main  line  north,  see  p.  25  ;  south,  see  p.  82. 

The  main  line  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Ry.  crosses  the  north- 
western corner  of  the  county.  Stations  adjacent  to  and 
within  the  countv  are  : 


Dist. 

fr.  Fernan- 

dina. 


55 . . .  Maxville  {Duval  Co.) 121  N 

56  ...Wilby 122  a 

V     61....  Highland ...117  I 

S     66.... Lavrtey  {Bradford  Co.) 112  | 


Dist.  fr. 
Ocala. 


For  continuation  of  this  line  to  Ocala,  see  p.  9  ;  Cedar  Key,  see  p.  7  ;  Feman- 
dina  and  Jacksonville,  see  pp.  25  and  67. 

The  Western  Railway  of  Florida  runs  to  Belmore,  li  miles 
southwest  of  Green  Cove  Spring.     The  stations  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Green  Cove. 


V 
SW 


0 Green  Cove  Spring 14 

3 Clinch's 11 

6. . . .  Willkinson 8 

7 Novella 7 

10 Sharon 4 

11 West  Sharon 3 

14 Belmore 0 


NE 

A 


Dist.  fr. 
Belmore. 


Columbia  County. 


Area,  860  eq.  m.— Lat.  29°  4S'  to  30°  33'  K— Long.  82"  27'  to  82'  50'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  12,844.— Pop.  (ISSO),  9,589.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,600,463. 
—Highest  elevation,  200  ft.  (Lake  aty).— County  seat,  Lake  City. 


Columbia  is  one  of  the  northern  tier  of  counties  touching 
the  Georgia  line,  and  including  a  wide  tract  of  unsettled  flat 
pine  land  in  its  northern  half.  The  southern  half  is  mod- 
erately high  pine  land,  with  extensive  tracts  of  good  ara- 
ble soil,  underlaid  in  the  western  portion  by  soft  sandstone, 
and  elsewhere  by  clay,  which  has  been  used,  since  1847,  for 
brick.     The  long  staple  Sea  Island  cotton  thrives  in  this 


IG       E       O       R       G 


rn 


[Blounts  Ferry 

2 


COLUMBIA  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


18  COLUMBIA  COUNTY. 

county,  and  large  warehouses  have  been  established  at  Lake 
City  and  elsewliere.  Good  water  is  found  in  natural  and 
artificial  wells  and  streams  all  over  the  county,  save  in 
the  southwestern  i^ortion,  wliere  limestone  i^revails,  and,  of 
course,  affects  the  water. 

The  line  of  the  Florida  Central  «fe  Peninsula  Railway 
crosses  the  central  i:)ortion  of  the  county,  connecting  to  the 
eastward  and  westward  with  Jacksonville,  Tallahassee,  and 
Pensacola.  From  Lake  City  to  Lake  City  Junction  is  a  di- 
vision of  the  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Railway,  leading 
to  Gainesville  and  the  Suwannee  River  at  New  Branford. 
Santa  Fe  River,  separating  the  county  from  Alachua  on  the 
south,  is  navigable  for  steamers  as  far  as  Fort  White,  and 
is  available  for  small  boats,  and  for  log-rafting  to  its  junc- 
tion with  Olustee  Creek.  Three  of  the  largest  creeks  in  the 
county  sink  into  the  ground,  to  reappear,  probably,  in  some 
of  the  numerous  springs  along  the  principal  water-coui*ses. 

The  exceptional  healthfulness  of  the  central  region  has 
been  recognized  by  the  Trustees  of  the  State  Agricultural 
College,  who,  after  due  deliberation,  selected  Lake  City  as 
the  site  of  the  institution. 

The  chief  articles  of  export  are  Sea  Island  cotton,  corn, 
and  tobacco,  cotton  being  the  largest  and  most  profitable 
crop. 

The  Western  Division  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Ry.  crosses  the 
county  from  east  to  west,  with  stations,  as  follows,  within 
and  adjacent  to  the  boundaries : 

47 ...  .0\nstee  (Baker  Co.) 160  p 

Diet.            i      52.... Mt.  Carrie 155  ^  -n.vt  ft- 

fr.  Jackson-     w     59 ....  Lake  City  ' 148  ^  -^i^tljr 

ville.  w    65....0ffden 142  Kiverdc. 


W 


71 Welborn  (Suwannee  Co.) 136 


»  Connects  with  Lake  City  Division.  Waycross  Short  Line,  Lake  City  to 
Lake  City  Junction,  19  m. ;  Fort  White,  22  m.,  and  Gainesville,  Alachna  County. 
For  continuation  to  River  Junction,  see  p.  91 ;  to  Jacksonville,  see  p.  7. 


DADE  COUNTY.  19 

Dade  County. 

Area,  7,200  eq.  m.— Lat.  25°  W  to  26°  10^  N.— Long.  80°  to  80°  55'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  726.— Pop.  (1880),  257.— County  seat,  Juno. 

Dade  County  is,  at  this  writing,  in  the  main  inaccessible 
to  the  ordinary  tourist,  and  unopened  to  the  average  settler. 
Communication  by  rail  has  been  established  with  Lake 
AYorth,  near  the  northern  boundary,  but  the  only  means  of 
reaching  Biscayne  Bay,  its  southernmost  habitable  district, 
is  by  way  of  the  weekly  mail-packets  —  ordina)'y  coasting 
schooners  from  Key  "West.  The  seventy  miles  of  beach  be- 
tween Lake  Worth  Inlet  and  Cape  Florida  are  accessible 
only  by  means  of  sea-going  craft,  or  on  foot,  or  in  canoes 
along  the  tortuous  water-ways  that  connect  the  various 
rivers  and  inlets.  The  map  indicates  the  scant  line  of  settle- 
ments along  the  coast,  all  of  them  within  sound  of  the  surf. 
The  rest  of  the  wide  domain  is  unsurveyed,  is  inhabited  only 
by  the  remnant  of  the  Seminole  Indians,  and  is  visited  only 
by  the  more  enterprising  and  adventurous  of  hunters  and 
cowboys.  Within  the  bounds  of  the  county  lies  the  major 
part  of  the  great  inland  fresh-water  lake  Okeechobee.  To 
the  southward  and  eastward  stretch  the  pathless  Everglades, 
separated  from  the  sea  only  by  a  comparatively  narrow  ridgo 
of  coralline  rock.  From  the  southern  reaches  of  Indian 
River  and  from  Lake  Worth  something  of  an  export  trade 
has  opened  in  pineapples,  cocoanuts,  tomatoes,  fish,  and 
turtles.  This  goes  northward  by  way  of  the  Jupiter  & 
Lake  Worth  Eailway  and  the  Indian  Eiver  steamers.  The 
settlements  along  Biscayne  Bay  send  similar  products  and 
a  considerable  amount  of  koonti-root  starch  bv  sea  to  Kev 
West. 

To  the  sportsman  the  inland  and  coastwise  waters  of  Dade 
County  offer  endless  attractions,  which  are  described  more 
in  detail  under  their  approjDriate  local  divisions.  See  Jupiter 
Inlet  and  Vicinity,  Lake  Worth,  Hillsborough  Eiver,  New 
River,  Boca  Eatones,  Biscayne  Bay,  Lake  Okeechobee,  The 
Everglades,  etc. 

The  only  railway  in  Dade  County,  and  the  southernmost 
in  the  United  States,  is  the  narrow-gauge  line,  seven  miles 


DADE  COUNTY— DE  SOTO  COUNTY.  21 

long,  from  Jupiter  Inlet  to  the  Lead  of  Lake  Woitli,  see 
Eoute  75.  It  belongs  to  tlie  Jacksonville,  Tampa,  &  Key 
West  system,  and  runs  in  connection  with  their  boats  on  the 
Indian  Eiver.  This  Com]mny  is  extending  its  surveys  to  the 
southward,  and  constructing  a  wagon-road  from  Lake  Worth 
to  Biscayne  Bay. 


De  Soto  County. 

Area,  3,800  sq.  m.— Lat.  SB"  45'  to  27°  38'  N.— Long.  80°  50'  to  82°  20'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  4,940.— Assessed  valuation,  $1,983,640.— County  seat,  Ar- 
cadia. 

This  county  was  organized  in  1887,  as  the  result  of  a  sub- 
division of  Manatee  County,  and  was  approijriately  named 
after  the  great  Spanish  navigator,  Hernando  De  Soto. 

It  is  still  in  the  main  a  wilderness,  some  sixty  miles  wide, 
extending  from  the  Kissimmee  River  and  Lake  Okeechobee 
on  the  east  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  west.  A  narrow 
chain  of  settlements  skirts  the  navigable  waters  and  the  line 
of  the  Florida  Southern  Eailway,  but  a  few  miles  on  either 
side  of  these  the  jjine  forests  are  unbroken  until  they  disap- 
pear in  the  i^rairies  and  saw-grass  bordering  the  great  inland 
lakes.  And  yet  this  region  represents  large  wealth,  for  here 
begins  the  great  cattle  range  of  Southwestern  Florida,  ex- 
tending from  Peace  River  on  the  northwestern  side  of  the 
county  to  the  borders  of  the  Everglades.  This  whole  region 
is  flat  or  gently  rolling  pine  land,  interspersed  with  ham- 
mock, and  often  opening  into  prairies  and  savannas.  Except- 
ing in  the  dense  hammock,  the  whole  is  carpeted  with  grass, 
affording  nutritious  food  for  cattle  the  year  round,  while  no 
shelter  whatever  is  required  for  the  animals. 

The  county  is  bisected  by  the  twenty-seventh  parallel  of 
north  latitude,  about  two-thirds  of  its  area  lying  to  the  north- 
ward of  that  line.  With  the  contiguous  county  of  Lee  it  con- 
tains by  far  the  largest  tract  of  naturally  valuable  land  in 
South  Florida.  Owing  to  its  low  latitude,  tropical  fruit  cult- 
ure and  truck  farming  for  early  vegetables  are  among  its 
chief  industries. 

The  Florida  Southern  Railwav  crosses  the  countv  from 


DE  SOTO  COUNTY— DUVAL  COUNTY.       23 

northeast  to  southwest,  having  its  terminus  at  Punta  Gorda, 
near  the  head  of  Charlotte  Harbor,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Morgan  Line  of  steamers  for  New  Orleans,  and  with  coast- 
wise craft  plying  to  the  southward.  Charlotte  Harbor  and 
its  adjacent  waters  afford  the  best  tarpon  fishing  on  the  Gulf 
Coast  (see  Eoute  81),  and  all  the  game  fish  of  this  region 
abound  in  the  rivers  and  bays.  Deer  and  turkeys  are  fre- 
quently killed  within  five  miles  of  the  railroad,  but  for  the 
certainty  of  good  sport  the  hunter  must  go  farther  afield,  as 
the  large  game  is  generally  hunted  off  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
permanent  settlements. 


Duval  County. 

Area,  900  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  35'  to  30°  10'  N.— Long.  81°  20'  to  820  5'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  26,T55.— Pop.  (1880),  19,431.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $9,540,619. 
— County  seat,  Jacksonville. 

Duval  was  one  of  the  original  counties  into  which  the 
territory  of  Florida  was  divided  in  accordance  with  an  act  of 
Congress,  on  the  second  Monday  of  June,  1822,  nearly  a  year 
after  the  United  States  formally  acquired  possession.  A  glance 
at  the  map  will  show  the  peculiar  commercial  advantages 
that  it  has  always  held.  Ever  since  the  shi^DS  of  the  French 
Huguenot,  Jean  Ribaut,  anchored  inside  the  bar  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  John's,  and  named  it  the  River  of  May, 
this  noble  stream  has  been  the  natural  avenue  of  travel  and 
trade  to  and  from  the  interior  of  the  peninsula.  Along  its 
banks  the  first  settlements  were  formed  and  railroads  fol, 
lowed  the  settlements.  All  traffic  between  the  Atlantic 
States  lying  to  the  northward  and  the  Floiidian  peninsula 
passes  almost  of  necessity  either  through  the  St.  John's 
River  or  near  the  jioint  where  the  course  of  the  stream 
changes  from  north  to  east. 

The  county  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river  to  a  point  about 
twenty-five  miles  from  the  sea-coast.  It  was  named  after  the 
Hon.  William  P.  Duval  first  territorial  governor  of  Florida. 

The  first  white  settlement  was  made  by  the  French  in 
1564,  at  St.  John's  Bluff,  a  high  promontory  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  river  about  three  miles  from  its  mouth  (see  p.  118). 


24 


DUVAL  (Jf)UNTV, 


This  wrvs  merely  a  military  post.  The  first  civil  settlement 
is  believed  to  have  been  made  in  1812,  at  the  head  of  the  old 
King's  road  from  St.  Augustine,  on  the  south  bank  of  the 


river  opposite  the  present  site  of  Jacksonville.  The  settler, 
Lewis  Z.  Hogan,  moved  across  the  river  in  1816,  and  thus 
was  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  leading   commercial  citv  of 


DUVAL  COUNTY.  '  25 

Florida.  Long  before  this,  however,  the  banks  of  the  river 
were  inhabited  by  Indian  tribes,  as  is  evident  from  the 
countless  shell  mounds  that  exist  on  both  sides  of  the  stream, 
often  containing  rude  pottery,  stone  implements  and  the  like, 
mingled  with  bones  of  men  and  animals  iu  perplexing  and 
suggestive  confusion. 

The  sea-coast  line  is  about  twenty  miles  in  extent  measuring 
southward  from  the  mouth  of  Nassau  Kiver.  The  greater 
I^art  of  it  is  fine  hard  beach,  suitable  for  diiving  and  bathing 
and  usually  backed  by  sand  ridges  or  hammocks  available 
for  building-sites. 

All  the  great  railway  lines  of  Florida  centre  in  Jackson- 
ville. The  main  line  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key 
West  System  runs  south  to  Tampa,  Punta  Gorda,  and  Titus- 
ville.  Stations  within  the  county  and  next  to  the  southern 
boundarv  are : 


,        0 Jacksonville 125 

Dist.  fr.         I       4 . .   .  Edgewood 121 


N 


Jackson-        „       9.  ...Black  Foint. .'.'..........'.'.'.'.'.'.  .116     f^     P^^l' ^' 

V     11        T?„^/iv  11.  Sanford. 


ville.  c     11...  Reed's 114 

14 ... . Orange  Park  {Clay  Co.) Ill 


The  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  &  Halifax  Eiver  Kailway 
(J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  System)  crosses  the  St.  John's  Eiver  on  a 
steel  drawbridge,  just  above  the  city.  Stations  within  the 
county  and  next  beyond  are  : 

0 . . .  Jacksonville 37 

1....S.  Jacksonville 36  NW 

3 . . . .  Phillips 34  a 

5  . .  Bowden 32  ;  p..  . 

9 Summerville 28  i        -    al    \ 

10....Nesb:t 2T  '       fr.St.Au- 

11. ...Eaton 26  |         gustme. 

V       14 Sweetwater 23 

SE     16  ...Bayard 21  | 

17 ... .  Register  (St.  John's  Co.) 20 

For  connections  at  St.  Augustine,  see  p.  133. 

The  Plant  System,  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Eailway, 
Waycross  short  line.  From  foot  of  Bridge  Street.  Stations 
within  and  near  Duval  County  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 

Jackson- 
ville. 


Dist.  fr. 

1 

0  . 

.  Jacksonville'  

20    NVT 

Dist.  fr. 

Jackson- 

V 

12 

..Dinsmore 

8       A 

ville. 

SE 

2D.. 

..Callahan^ 

0       t 

'  For  connections,  see  p.  103. 

«  Connects  with  F.  C.  &  P.  Ry.,  eee  p.  67. 


26 


DUVAL   COUNTY. 


D:6t.  f:. 
Femandina. 


The  Florida  Central  «fe  Peninsula  Railroad — Jacksonville 
Branch.  Between  Jacksonville  and  Fernandina.  From  foot 
of  Hogan  Street.     Stations  are  : 

0 Jacksonville' 37 

j       1 Wavcross  Jc 36     S 

Diet.  5 Jacksonville  Jc 32     a 

fr.  Jackson-      I      15.... Duval 22      i 

ville.  V     26....Ilart'.s  Rd.  Jc.= U 

N     27....  Hart's  Road 10      | 

37 Fernandina^ 0 

'  For  connections,  see  p.  103. 

2  Connects  with  Southern  Div.  F.  C.  &  P.,  see  p.  67. 

3  Connects  with  Mallory  Line  Pteamers  for  New  York  (see  p.  127)  ;  and  coast- 
wise steamers  for  Georgia  ports. 

The  Jacksonville  &  Atlantic  Railroad  has  its  station  in 
South  Jacksonville.  Ferry  from  foot  of  Market  Street.  The 
stations  are : 


Dist.  fr. 

Jackson- 
ville. 


0    Jacksonville 17.3 

1 S.  Jacksonville' 1G.3 

2.8....St.  Nichola    14.5 

6    . . . .  Pottsburg 11.3 

14.6. . .  .San  Pablo 2.7 

17.3. . .  .Pablo  Beach    0 

>  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Svstem. 


Dist.  fr. 
Pablo 
Beach. 


The  Jacksonville,  Mavport  &  Pablo  Railway  &  Navigation 
Co.  has  its  station  at  Arlington,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  St. 
John's,  three  miles  by  ferry,  foot  of  Newnan  Street.  The 
stations  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Jackson- 
ville. 


0 Jacksonville 20 

3 Aj-liugton 17 

4  ...  Egleston .16 

1 ...  Verona 13 

8 Cohaseett  12 

9 McCormick 11 

10... Mill  Cove 10 

11 Pine  Grove 9 

14.  ...Idlewild  6 

15 Greenfield    5 

16 Bumside  Beach 4 

18.... The  Jetties 2 

19  , .  Jettv  Cottage 1 

19i..  .Light  House ^ 

20. . .  .Mayport 0 


Dist.  fr. 
Mayport. 


ESCAMIJIA   COUNTY.  27 


Escambia  County. 

Area,  720  sq.  m.— Lat.  31"  to  30°  20'  N.— Long.  87°  40'  to  87°  50'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  20,097.— Pop.  (1880),  12,156.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $3,649,758. 
— County  seat,  Pensacula. 

The  magnificent  bay  where  Pensacola  now  stands  was  dis- 
covered by  Pamphilo  de  Narvaez,  Avho  landed  there,  accord- 
ing to  the  English  historian  Jeffries,  in  1528.  A  iDermauent 
settlement  was  made  in  1696,  by  the  Si^aniards  under  Don 
Andre  d'Arreola,  on  the  present  site  of  Fort  Barrancas,  and 
since  that  time,  although  the  location  of  the  town  was  re- 
peatedly shifted,  and  it  has  been  held  successively  by 
French,  English,  and  Americans,  it  has  never  been  aban- 
doned by  Europeans. 

Escambia  is  the  westernmost  county  of  Florida,  terminat- 
ing the  Gulf  range  of  counties,  and  separated  from  Alabama 
on  the  west  by  the  Perdido  Kiver,  and  on  the  north  by  the 
arbitrary  interstate  line.  Its  soil  is  sand  underlaid  with 
clay,  and  its  agricultural  capabilities  are  rapidly  developing. 
Its  main  export,  however,  is  lumber,  since  Pensacola  is  the 
shipping-point  for  a  vast  region  of  heavily  wooded  land 
lying  to  the  northward,  and  penetrated  by  streams,  down 
which  the  logs  are  floated  to  tide-water. 

Much  of  the  land  in  the  county  is  high  and  rolling,  with 
hardwood  hammocks  along  the  watercourses. 

To  hunters,  fishermen,  and  yachtsmen,  the  coasts  and 
waterways  of  Escambia  County  ofier  great  attractions.  The 
extensive  land-locked  sounds  and  bays  afford  safe  anchorage 
in  all  weatheis,  and  are  easy  of  access  from  sea  at  all  stages 
of  the  tide.  The  shores  are  almost  everywhere  available  for 
camping  purposes,  and  game  abounds,  though  reckless  and 
indiscriminate  shooting  has  made  it  very  wild. 

The  Pensacola  &  Atlantic  Division  of  the  Louisville  & 
Nashville  Railroad  enters  the  county  from  Santa  Rosa 
County  on  the  east,  crossing  Escambia  Bay  on  a  long 
trestle.     The  stations  are  : 

Ppiisft-  '  ^     •i'otiemia 155         a  -Rivpr 

i^f  V         8....Yn!estra 153  I  "i!^"^ 

^°'^-        NNE     9. ...Escambia.... 152  '"'• 


ESCAMBIA   COUNTY— FRANKLIN  COUNTY.  29 

The  Pensacola  &  Atlantic  Division,  Louisville  &  Nash- 
ville Eailroad,  enters  Escambia  from  Alabama  on  the  north. 
Stations  near  aud  within  the  county  are : 

0 . . . .  FlomatOH  '  44 

5. . .  .Bluff  Springs 39    N 

12  . .  McDavid 32     a 

20...  Moliiio 24 

24. . .  Quintette 20 

28 Cantonment- lo 

32. . . . Gonzalez 12 

37. ...Olive T 

44 Pensacola 0 

■  Connects  with  lines  to  New  Orleans,  Montgomery,  and  Selma. 
^  Branch  to  Muscogee,  five  miles  west. 

The  Pensacola  &  Perdido  Eailroad  connects  Pensacola  with 
Millview,  six  miles  west,  on  Perdido  Bay. 


Diet.  fr. 
Flomaton. 


Dist.  fr. 
Psnsacoia. 


Franklin  County. 

Area,  500  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  40'  to  30"  5'  N.— Long.  84"  30'  to  85°  15'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  3,271.— Pop.  (1880),  1,791.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $495,427.— 
Cotmty  seat,  Apalachicola. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  this  county  was  originally  included  in 
what  was  known  as  the  Forbes  Purchase,  the  result  of 
negotiations  made  with  the  Indians  by  an  English  firm, 
Forbes  &  Co.,  in  1819.  This  was  just  prior  to  the  transfer 
of  Florida  from  Spain  to  the  United  States.  The  sea-coast 
of  this  county  is  sheltered  by  St.  Vincent's,  St.  George's 
Island,  and  Dog  Island,  within  which  are  broad  sounds  and 
bays  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  size  and  affording  fishing 
grounds  unsurpassed  by  any  on  the  coast.  Dog  Island  Har- 
bor especially  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Gulf. 

Owing  to  its  isolated  position  Franklin  County  has  not  yet 
been  penetrated  by  railroads,  and  for  this  reason  it  offers 
attractions  to  the  sportsman  not  possessed  by  its  more  ac- 
cessible neighbors.  Tributary  to  these  nearly  land-locked 
waters  are  a  number  of  rivers  and  estuaries,  many  of  them 
navigable  for  vessels  of  considerable  size,  and  all  navigable 
for  small  boats,  affording  access  to  some  of  the  be.st  hunting 
lands  in  Florida.  The  region  is  most  easily  reached  by  way 
of  the  Apalachicola  River,  from  Eiver  Junction,  whence  com- 
'^ninication  by  rail  is  easy  and  direct  from  all  i^arts  of  the 
United  States. 


GADSDEN   COUNTY. 


31 


Gadsden  County. 

Area,  540  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  20'  to  30"  40'  N.— Long.  84"  15'  to  84°  55'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  11,878.— Pop.  (1880),  12,169.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  11,018,149. 
—County  seat,  Quincy. 

Organized  as  one  of  the  original  counties  into  which  the 
State  was  divided  in  1822,  Gadsden  County  soon  became 
one  of  the  leading  agricultural  districts  of  Florida.  The 
face  of  the  country  is  undulating,  with  a  subsoil  of  red  clay, 
well  watered,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  hammock 
and  i^inc  timber.     The  Ocklockonee  Kiver  forms  the  dividing 


line  from  Leon  County  on  the  southwest,  and  into  this  flow 
numerous  "  runs  "  and  creeks  of  clear  water,  affording  abun- 
dant facilities  for  water-power  and  natural  irrigation  for  wide 
tracts  of  land.  The  hills  rise  to  a  considerable  height  in  the 
northern  jiart  of  this  county— more  than  300  feet  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Quincy.  Under  the  system  of  cultivation 
that  prevailed  prior  to  the  Civil  War,  and  before  adequate 
means  of  transportation  existed,  the  annual  tobacco  crop  was 
something  like  5,000  boxes  of  350  j^ounds  each.  Within  a 
few  years  this  industry  has  been  revived  by  Northern  capital 
on  a  large  scale  in  the  vicinity  of  Quincy  (Route  223). 
The  culture  of  Cuban  tobacco  was  introduced  into  Gadsden 


32     GADSDEN  COUNTY— HAMILTON  COUNTY. 

Couuty  in  1829,  by  a  Virginian  who  settled  in  the  vicinity  of 
Quincy.  He  was  so  successful  that  his  example  was  soon 
followed,  and  until  the  Civil  War  iu  18G0  the  value  of  the 
crop  nearly  or  quite  equalled  that  of  cotton,  the  annual  ship- 
ments averaging  1,G00,0U0  pounds.  A  great  advantage  of 
tobacco-growers  was  that  the  busy  season  timed  itself  so  as 
not  to  interfere  with  cotton -planting.  Thus  the  tobacco 
could  usually  be  harvested  after  the  cotton  was  started  and 
before  it  was  time  for  j^icldng,  while  the  packing  and  boxing 
was  necessarily  done  in  wet  weather,  when  out-of-door  work 
was  impracticable.  The  Civil  War  first  and  the  abolition  of 
slavery  afterward  jiractically  suspended  this  industry. 

The  Western  Division  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula 
Railway  crosses  Gadsden  Couuty  with  stations  as  follows : 

9 Ocklockonee  (I^oii  Co.) 34 

T,,  .  I        12....Mdvvav    31      SE 

fr.Talla-       '       24...0,umcy 19      a       Dist.  fr. 


hassee. 


V       33.    Mt.  Pleasant 10       I       Kiver  Jc. 

NW    42.... Chattahoochee! 1       ' 

43 River  Junctiou  - 0 


'  Connects  Savannah,  Flonda  &  Western  Railway,  crossing  at  once  into 
Georgia. 

''  Connects  Pensaco'a  &  Atlantic  Division  L.  &  N.  (see  p.  16),  and  with  Chat- 
tahoochee River  Steamers. 


Hamilton  County. 

Area,  460  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  20'  to  80"  40'  N.— Lonjr.  82°  40'  to  83°  20'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  8,477.— Pop.  (1880).  6,790.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,042- 
495. — County  seat,  Jasper. 

The  county  lies  between  the  Suwannee  Eiver  on  the  west, 
and  one  of  its  main  branches,  the  Alapaha,  on  the  south  and 
east.  The  surface  is  generally  level,  with  rolling  land  near 
the  rivers,  and  a  fine  growth  of  hammock  timber  and  pine, 
and  cypress  in  some  portions.  Sea  Island  or  long  stajile 
cotton  is  successfully  grown.  In  the  river-swamps  and  ham- 
mocks the  soil  is  rich  and  dark.  The  Florida  Central  & 
Peninsula  Railroad  runs  through  the  middle  of  the  county 
from  north  to  south,  and  the  Florida  Central  &  Western 
Railroad  passes  close  to  the  southwestern  corner  at  EUa- 
ville,  Madison  County.  The  county  contains  a  number  of 
remarkable  springs,  sinks,  and  other  natural  curiosities. 


HAMILTON  COUNTY -HERNANDO  COUNTY. 


33 


Tlio  Gaiuesville  Division,  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western 
Eaijroad,  crosses  the  county  with  stations  as  follows  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Savannah. 


130 Dupont 49 

139.   ..Forrest 40     N 

150....Statenville 29     a 

163  .. .  Jasper 16 

168 Marion    11      1 

171 Suwannee  (Suwannee  Co.) 8     1 

179. . .  Live  Oak  {Huwannee  Co.)  ' 0 


Dist.  fr. 
Live  Oak. 


I  Connects  F.  C.  &  P.  Ry.  running  east  to  Jacksonville,  and  west  to  River 
Junction  (see  p.  91).    For  continuation  to  Gainesville,  see  p.  91. 

The   Georgia    Southern    &   Florida    Railroad    enters   the 
county  from  Georgia  on  the  north  with  stations  as  follows  : 

Dist  fr         I     167.... Melrose  (Ga.) ^^  ^^^^    Dist  fr 

Macon. Ga.  s^E  l99;;;:w^te Springs-:::. :::.::::::::::n  1  ^^'<^^- 

I  Crosses  S.  F.  &  W.  Ey. 


Hernando  County. 

Area,  500  sq.  m.— Lat.  28°  25'  to  23°  40'  N.— Long.  82°  to  8»>  40'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890).  2,474.— Assessed  valuation  (1888).  $900.000.— County  seat.  Brooks- 

ville. 

Until  1850  this  county,  then  three  times  its  present  size, 
was  named  Benton,  after  the  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Benton,  of 
3 


34 


HERNANDO  COUNTY. 


North  Carolina,  a  popular  statesman  of  the  day.  The  pres- 
ent name  was  chosen  when  the  original  county  was  subdi- 
vided in  1875. 

Brooksville,  the  county  town,  lies  in  the  midst  of  one  of 
the  finest  agricultural  regions  of  the  State.  The  surface  soil 
is  largely  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  underlaid  with  brown  sandy 
loam  several  feet  deep,  and  resting  upon  a  substratum  of 
limestone,  clay,  or  marl.  In  area  the  land  is  about  equally 
divided  into  hammock,  high  pine,  low  pine,  and  swamp. 
The  hammock  lands  are  almost  invariably  high  and  rolling, 


with  fine  natural  drainage,  and  an  exceedingly  rich  soil  un- 
derlaid with  sand  or  clay,  and  having  a  substratum  of  lime- 
stone. All  these  lands,  except  the  very  poorest,  are  ex- 
tremely productive,  yielding  cotton,  tobacco,  vegetables,  and 
the  various  field  crops.  In  the  central  and  western  parts  of 
the  county  the  ridges  rise  to  a  height  of  some  three  hundred 
feet  above  tide-water.  There  are  no  navigable  rivers,  and  the 
Gulf  coast  can  be  approached  only  by  boats  of  very  light 
draught,  save  at  Gulf  Key  or  Hammock  Creek,  where  there 
is  a  good  harbor  accessible  for  vessels  drawing  six  feet  of 
water.  Indian  Creek,  in  the  same  harbor,  is  also  a  safe 
anchorage  for  small  vessels.  Elsewhere  the  approaches 
to  the  coast  are  shallow,  with  numerous  oyster-beds,  and 
an  archipelago  of  small  barren  islands  in  the  northern  part. 


HERNANDO   COUNTY  35 

The  Florida  Southern  (J.,  T.  k  K.  W.  sjsiem),  the  South 
Florida,  the  Florida  Central  and  the  Orange  Belt  railroads 
cross  the  eastern  part  of  the  county,  and  a  branch  of  the  first 
named  penetrates  to  Brooksville  in  the  middle  of  the 
county. 

Stations  of  the  Florida  Southern  within  and  adjacent  to 

the  county  are  : 

_ .       „        I     63 ... .  Pemberton  Ferry  ' 11    W    Dist.  f r. 

JJist.tr.      y     69...  Couper  5     a      Brooks- 

Ocala.      J,     T4.  ...Brooksville 0      |        ville. 

I  Connects  wth  South  Florida  Railroad  (see  below).  For  continuation  of  this 
line  to  Ocala,  see  p.  87. 

The  Bartow  Branch  of  the  South  Florida  Eailroad  has  sta- 
tions within  and  next  to  the  county  as  follows  : 

,       0 Pemberton  Ferry  '  {Sumter  Co.) . .  57  fj 

T,.  .  f  1.... Fitzgerald 56  "-^ 

Dist  fr  3. ...Oriole  54  ^  Dist. 

Pemberton  g       BayCity 51  fr.  Bartow. 

J?e.ry.         v  iq  ..  Macon  (/^a^w  Co.) 47 

^  11....  Orange  Belt  Jc.  - 48  ' 

'  Connects  with  J.,  T.  A  K.  W.  system  (see  above). 

■■'  Crosses  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  below).  For  continuation  of  this  line,  see 
p.  76. 

The  Tampa  Branch  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Co.  crosses  the  east- 
ern point  of  the  county  from  north  to  south.  The  stations 
are  : 

Diet.  fr.      I     22. . .  .Withlacoochee 39     a     Dist.fr. 

Wild-        I      2S.     .Lacoochee  ; 32      I        Plant 

Wood.      V     30....Owensboro  ••'  31     |        City. 

'  Crosses  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  belowV 

■■'  Crosses  South  Florida  Railroad  (see  p.  76).  For  continuation  of  this  line, 
see  p.  76. 

The  Orange  Belt  Railway  crosses  the  eastern  point  of  the 
county  from  northeast  to  southwest.     Stations  are  : 

■n--c=f   f,       I      06...  Wyoming S3     NE       Dist.fr. 

Monrn^'     ^     71 . . . .  Lai:oochee  ' 77       a       St.  Peters- 

^*^°"'^°^'  SW  73....Macon2 75       |  burg. 

'  C. -oases  P.  C.  &  P.  Ry.  (see  above). 

-  Crosses  South  Florida  Railroad  (see  above).  For  continuation  of  this  line, 
see  pp.  74  and  87. 


36  HILLSBOROUGH  COUNTY. 


Hillsborough  County. 

Area,  1,300  sq.  m.— Lat.  27°  2^  to  28"  50'  N.— Long.  82°  to  82°  50'  W.— Popu- 
lation (lS90"i,  14,810.— Pop.  (1880),  5,814.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $3,200,000. 
— County  seat,  Tampa. 

This  county,  or  the  region  adjacent,  early  received  its  name 
after  the  Earl  of  Hillsborough,  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
colonies  of  Great  Britain  during  the  American  Revolution. 
The  county  was  organized  in  1835.  It  is  mainly  in  the  long- 
leaf  pine  region,  naturally  all  woodland,  -with  1,185  square 
miles  of  rolling  pine  land,  75  square  miles  of  marshy  lowland, 
and  40  square  miles  of  hammock.  Of  all  the  Gulf  counties 
Hillsborough  is  j^erhaps  the  most  favored  in  her  coast  line, 
which  exceeds  150  miles  in  length,  although  from  north  to 
south  the  county  is  only  36  miles  wide.  This  is  due  to 
Tauijia  Bay,  which  with  its  branches,  Hillsborough  Bay  and 
EiveraudOld  Tamj^a  Bay,  penetrates  far  into  the  interior. 
About  one  quarter  of  the  whole  extent  of  coast  is  low  and 
marshy,  while  the  rest  rises  quite  abruptly  from  the  water's 
edge,  often  with  bluffs  and  a  border  of  fine  beach.  The 
greater  part  of  the  county  is  good  pine  land,  with  a  fair 
amount  of  hammock  and  some  open  prairie.  The  better  lands 
for  agricultural  purposes  lie  in  the  western  part. 

Tampa  Bay  was  one  of  the  first  discovered  and  used  by 
the  early  navigators,  and  it  is  almost  certain  that  traders  and 
freebooters  visited  its  waters  prior  to  Hernando  De  Soto,  who 
anchored  there  on  May  25,  1539,  wdth  a  fleet  of  several  ves- 
sels, and  a  force  of  570  men,  comiDrising  the  very  flower  of 
Spanish  chivalry.  He  brought  with  him,  also,  223  horses, 
and  the  whole  elaborate  equipment  of  armorei*s,  smiths,  and 
servants  essential  to  the  needs  of  such  a  force.  The  Feast  of 
Pentecost  of  that  year  fell  on  the  .day  of  arrival,  and  the 
noble  bay  was  named  Bahia  Espiritu  Sancto  (Bay  of  the 
Holy  Spirit),  after  the  devout  custom  of  these  early  explorers. 
The  Spanish  name  Mas  for  centuries  retained  on  the  maps, 
but  it  appears  to  have  been  dropped  in  favor  of  the  still 
older  Indian  name  soon  after  the  English  gained  a  foothold. 

On  the  shores  of  the  bay  and  along  the  Gulf  coast  and  the 
outlying  Keys  are  many  Indian  mounds  of  great  interest  to 


XT 


<    ^        i  >  ^  "' 

li       S  <  O  >^    !^, 

"       ^  "  ^    H     il 

^8  si 


3S 


IIILLSBOROUCII    COUNTY. 


archicologists.  Some  account  of  them  is  given  elsewhere 
with  a  sketch  of  the  results  of  such  explorations  as  have  thus 
far  been  prosecuted.     See  Index. 

Tampa  Bay  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  the  largest  class. 
The  bar  carries  20  feet  of  water  at  low  tide,  and  good  an- 
chorage for  yachts  can  be  found  almost  anywhere  within 
the  bay.  There  are  no  dangerous  obstructions,  and  the  only 
difficulty  likely  to  be  encountered  is  in  running  upon  the 
shoals  which  make  out  from  the  shore,  and  occasionally  occur 
in  mid  channel.  With  a  yacht  properly  constracted  for  ser- 
vice in  these  waters  running  aground  is  a  matter  of  small 
moment.  For  hunters  and  fishermen  the  woods  and  wateis 
of  Hillsborough  County  offer  abundant  sport.  All  the  game 
and  fishes  peculiar  to  Florida  may  be  found  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  centres  of  jjopulation. 

The  South  Florida  Eoad,  main  line,   has   the  following 

named  stations  near  and  within  the  county  : 

83.... Lakeland  {Polh  Co.)  i. 48 

88. . .  .Shiloh 43    E 

93.... Plant  City.  2.   ..    3T     a 

98.... Cork  26 

Dist.fr.  I      100....Sparkman 24  Dist.fr. 

Jackson-  103 ScfEuer 21  Port 

•vdlle.  I      105 Mango 19  Tampa. 

109.... Orient 15 

V  111. . .  .East  Cove 13 

W    115. ...Tampa 9 

124. ...Port  Tampa^ 0 

'  Connects  with  Bartow  &  Pemberton  Ferry  Branches,  S.  F.  Rd.  (see  p.  80). 

2  Connects  with  F.  R.  &  N.  to  Pasco  County,  Dade  City,  etc.  (see  p.  76). 

3  Connects  with  ocean  steamers  to  Key  West,  Havana,  New  Orleans,  and 
Mobile.    Also  with  coastwise  steamboats. 

The  Orange  Belt  Eoad,  from  Monroe,  Yolusia  County,  to 
St.  Petersburg,  enters  Hillsborough  County  from  the  nori  h 
near  the  Gulf  and  mns  southward  down  the  coast.  The  sta- 
tions in  and  near  the  county  are  : 

lOG. . .  .Odessa  {Pasco  Co.) 42 

114. . .  .Tacony 34    N 

116 Tarpon  Springs 32     a 

120. . .  Sea  Side 28 

122. . .  .Sutherland 20 

Dist.  fr.  123. .. .  Yellow  Bluff  (Ozoiia) 25 

Uonroe.  127 Dnnedin 21 

130 ... .  Clearwater  Harbor 18 

132 ... .  Armour 16 

V  138. . .  .Cross  Bayou 10 

S    142....Lel!man  6 

143. . .  .St.  Petersburg  : 0 

'  Connects  with  ferry  to  Port  Tampa  and  coastwise  steamboats. 


Dlst.  fr. 
St.  Peters- 
burg. 


HOLMES  COUNTY. 


39 


Holmes  County. 

Area,  540  eq.  m.— Lat.  30"  43'  to  31°  N.— Long.  86°  5'  to  85°  30'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  4,336.— Pop.  (1880),  2,190.— Assessed  valuation,  $332,954.— County 
seat,  Cerro  Gordo. 

The  land  in  Holmes  County  is  mainly  a  good  quality  of  pine 
land,  ■which  produces  cotton,  sugar-cane,  corn,  and  tobacco, 
as  the  principal  field  crops.  The  soil  is  clay  and  sandy  loam. 
Peaches,  grapes,  and  plums  are  successfully  grown,  and  stock- 


HOLMES  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


WALT    O/N 


raising  is  among  the  profitable  industries.  The  Choctawhat- 
chee  River  is  the  principal  watercourse,  finding  its  source 
in  Southern  Alabama,  running  in  a  southerly  direction  across 
the  county,  and  falling  into  Choctawliatchee  Bay.  It  is  navi- 
gable for  steamboats  beyond  the  county  line,  and  is  available 
for  logging  purposes  and  small  boats  well  up  into  Alabama. 
Holmes  County  is  underlaid  with  cavernous  white  lime- 
stone, which  frequently  forms  remarkable  "sinks  "  and  wells. 
Most  of  the  lakes  and  ponds  are  of  this  nature,  often  occur- 
ring on  ridges  where  there  was  a  sufficient  quantity  of  sand 
and  drift  to  fill  in  the  cavity  when  the  subsidence  occurred. 


40      HOLMES  COUNTY— JACKSON  COUNTY. 

The  Pensacola  <V  Atlantic  Division  of  the  Louisville  & 
Nashville  Eailroad  crosses  Holmes  County  east  and  west  near 
the  southern  border.     Stations  in  and  near  the  county  are  as 

follows : 

43 Chipley  ( Washington  Co.) 118 

I      53....Bonifav 108    E 

Tkiof   *■_  61 Caryville 100     a       T)ipt  fr 

^li;/;  63  ...Westville 98      i      peng-oia. 

RivcrJc.     y     70....PoucedeLeon 91  i-ensacoia. 

W   T7....Ar<rvle 84      | 

81 ... .  De  f  uniak  Sp 80 

For  continuation  east  and  west,  see  p.  101. 


Jackson  County. 

Area,  1,000  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  35'  to  31*  N.— Long.  84°  SC  to  85°  40'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  1T,492.— Pop.  (1888),  14,372.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,023,985. 
— County  seat,  Marianna. 

This  county  is  in  what  is  termed  the  oak,  hickory,  and 
pine  upland  region.  It  contains  about  150  square  miles  of 
red  lime  lands,  400  square  miles  of  oak,  hickory,  and  high 
pine,  and  450  square  miles  of  ordinary  long-leaf  pine  lands. 

It  is  named  after  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson,  military  Governor 
of  Florida,  and  is  one  of  the  original  counties  organized  on  the 
acquisition  of  the  Territory  by  the  United  States.  It  is  on 
the  eastern  border  of  what  is  known  as  West  Florida.  The 
Chattahoochee  Eiver  sei3arates  it  from  Georgia  on  the  east, 
navigable  for  river  steamers  for  the  whole  distance.  The 
Chattahoochee  unites  with  the  Apalachicola  River  near  the 
southeastern  corner  of  the  county.  Along  the  river  is  a  strip 
of  bottom  land  from  one  and  one-half  to  two  miles  wide, 
which  is  of  extraordinary  richness,  but  is  subject  to  over- 
flow. The  Chipola  Eiver,  rising  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
county,  runs  south,  dividing  it  nearly  in  half.  This  stream 
is  used  for  floating  lumber  to  the  railroad  and  to  the  Gulf, 
but  is  navigable  only  for  small  boats.  Along  the  Chipola 
Eiver  are  rich  hammock  lauds  covered  with  a  heavy  growth 
of  hard  wood  timber,  as  oak,  beach,  magnolia,  maple, 
hickory,  and  bay.  The  county  is  well  watei'ed  by  the  tribu- 
taries of  the  streams  mentioned,  and  is  besides  well  supplied 
with  lakes  and  springs.     The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  red 


JACKSON  COUNTf 


41 


clay  and  sandy  loam,  and  produces  cotton,  corn,  oats,  rice, 
sugar-cane,  and  tobacco,  and  all  save  the  strictly  subtropical 
fruits. 

The  Pensacola  &  Atlantic  Eailroad  crosses  the  county  from 


JACKSOX 
COUXTY    1^ 

,      SCALE  OF  MILES  ■ 

u,   ^    _    _,   _,'  j^     C 


east  to  west  in  its  middle  belt  of  townships,  having  stations 
near  and  within  the  county  as  follows : 

,       0 River  Jc.  >  (Gadsden  Co.) 161    tj, 

I        5....Sneads   156    ^ 

Dist.fr.        I      15.... Cypress 146     '>      Dist.fr. 

River  Jc.     w    25 Marianna 136  Pensacola. 

^    34....Cottondale 12T 

44  . .  Chipley  ( Washington  Co.) 117      ' 

•  Connects  witli  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Railroad  (see  p.  32),  and 
Chattahoochee  River  steamers. 


42 


JEFFERSON   COUNTY. 


Jefferson  County. 

Area,  500  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  to  30°  40'  N.— Long.  83°  35'  to  84°  5'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  15,699.— Pop.  (1880),  16,065.— Assessed  valoation  (1888),  $1,800,000. 
— County  seat,  Monticello. 

Jefferson  County  stretches  across  that  portion  of  the  State 

known  as  Middle  Florida,   touching  Georgia  on  the  north 


JEFFERSON   COUNTY— LAFAYETTE  COUNTY.        43 

and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south.  The  Aucilla  River, 
navigable  for  steamboats  to  the  natm-al  bridge,  forms  the 
southeastern  boundary.  The  face  of  the  country  is  unusually 
diversified,  the  whole  of  the  northern  part  hilly  and  well 
wooded,  Micosukee  Lake  forming  its  northwestern  boundary. 
This  lake  is  about  twelve  miles  long  and  six  miles  wide  at 
its  western  end,  a  curiously  irregular  body  of  water,  sur- 
rounded by  extensive  forests  of  pine.  The  soil  is  generally 
a  sandy  loam  underlaid  with  clay,  well  adapted  for  the  cul- 
tivation of  early  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  field  crops  are 
mainly  cotton,  corn,  rice,  sugar-cane,  and  tobacco.  About 
twenty  miles  from  the  coast  the  hills  abruptly  disappear,  and 
from  this  point  to  the  Gulf  stretch  the  "  flat  woods  "  almost 
unbroken,  but  full  of  game,  and  affording  an  inviting  field 
to  the  sportsman. 

The  Western  Division  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  crosses  the  county 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  Georgia  line.  Its  stations 
within  and  nearest  to  the  county  are  : 

I  12.... Chaires  (Leon  Co.) 153  W 

Dist.  fr.  18. ...Lloyd 147  A        Dist.fr. 

Talla-        I  2T....Driftou' 138  |        Jackson- 

hassee.      V  34 Aucilla 131  ville. 

E  41 GreenmWe  {31'adison  Co.)  124  | 

•  Connects  with  branch  to  Monticello,  four  miles,  and  then  with  branch  of 
Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Railroad  to  Sunny  Hill,  twelve  miles,  and 
Thomasviile,  Oa.,  twenty  mOes. 


Lafayette  County. 

Area,  940  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  ZC  to  30°  15'  N.— Long.  82°  50'  to  83°  22'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  3,669.— Pop.  (1880),  2,441.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $502,818.— 
County  seat,  New  Troy. 

Lafayette  County  lies  along  the  west  bank  of  the  Suwannee 
Kiver  for  the  whole  of  its  navigable  course,  its  natural  facil- 
ities for  transportation  being  excellent.  The  river  is  navi- 
gable for  steamboats  to  New  Branford,  where  the  Savannah, 
Florida  &  Western  Railway  touches  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
river,  affording  communication  by  rail  with  Gainesville, 
Lake  City,  and  Live  Oak,  and  the  great  trunk  lines  of  rail- 
way. The  soil  is  sandy,  underlaid  with  clay,  and  there  is 
much  excellent  hammock  land  as  yet  unoccupied.  The 
southern   extremity   of   the    county   is  within   ten  miles  of 


LAFAYETTE  COUNTY— LAKE  COUNTY.      45 

Cedar  Keys,  the  Gulf  terminus  of  the  Florida  Central  & 
Peninsular  Railway. 

The  Gulf  coast  of  Lafayette  County  is  very  shallow,  and 
destitute  of  harbors,  save  at  the  mouth  of  the  Suwannee  and 
Steinhatchee  Rivers,  where  small  vessels  may  find  shelter  and 
anchorage.  The  fishing  is  excellent  in  the  rivers  and  along 
the  coast. 

Game  of  all  kinds  is  very  abundant  in  the  heavily  wooded 
and  sparsely  populated  region  that  covers  the  whole  county 
a  few  miles  back  from  the  river. 


Lake  County. 

Area,  1,100  sq.  m.— Lat.  28°  20'  to  28°  55'  N.— Long.  81°  IS'  to  81°  55'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  8,020.  Organized  in  188T,  no  census. — Aesessed  valuation 
(1888),  $3,724,116.— Highest  elevation,  500  ft.— County  seat,  Tavares. 

Lake  County  was  formed  in  1887  by  an  act  of  the  State 
Legislature  uniting  portions  of  the  adjoining  counties 
(Orange  and  Sumter).  It  is  among  the  most  beautiful  of 
the  inland  counties,  owing  to  the  picturesque  groups  of  lakes 
from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and  which  cover  nearly  one- 
sixth  of  its  surface.  The  larger  members  of  the  group  are 
known  as  Lakes  Harris,  Eustis,  Griflfen,  Dunham,  Dora,  Yale, 
Minnehaha,  Mineola,  and  Apopka,  the  last  named  lying 
jjartly  within  the  borders  of  Orange  County.  Besides  these 
there  are  small  lakes,  almost  without  number,  and  abundant 
flowing  streams.  That  the  county  is  nearly  on  the  "divide  " 
of  the  Floridian  Peninsula  is  evident  from  the  fact  that 
streams  flowing  through  its  territory  find  their  way  to  the 
ocean  through  the  three  widely  divergent  channels  of  the  St. 
John's,  the  Withlacoochee,  and  the  Kissimmee,  the  first 
named  falling  into  the  Atlantic  near  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  State,  while  the  others  reach  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
through  Lake  Okeechobee  and  the  Everglades.  In  point  of 
fact,  the  highest  elevations  in  the  State,  nearly  five  hundred  feet 
above  tide-water,  are  found  in  this  county.  The  appi'oaches, 
however,  are  so  gradual  that  only  the  surveyor's  level  can 
demonstrate  the  constant  rise.  The  larger  lakes  are  all  navi- 
gable for  small  steamers,  and  as  some  of  them  are  connected 


LAKE  COUNTY. 


47 


by  natural  or  artificial  waterways  quite  an  extensive  and 
varied  system  of  navigation  exists. 

The  Jacksonville,  Tanii^a  &  Key  West  Railway  system, 
through  the  Florida  Southern  Railway  Company,  affords 
abundant  transportation  facilities,  and  there  are  besides  the 
Tavares,  Atlantic  &  Gulf,  and  the  Orange  Belt  Railways. 
These  lines  intersect  in  all  directions,  skirting  the  lake 
shores  and  rendering  all  parts  of  the  county  easily  accessible. 
Other  branch  roads  are  contemplated,  notwithstanding  the 
multiplicity,  for  Lake  County  is  one  of  the  richest  orange- 
gi'owing  counties  in  the  State,  and  it  has  been  abundantly 
proven  that,  to  be  profitable  an  orange  grove  must  be  within 
a  very  few  miles  of  a  railroad. 

The  St.  John's  &  Lake  Eustis  Division  of  the  Florida 
Southern  Railway  (J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system)  enters  the  county 
at  Astor  (forty-two  miles  from  Palatka)  after  crossing  the  St. 
John's  River.     The  stations  are  : 


Diet.  fr. 
Astor. 


0 Astor 25 

4 Bryansville    21 

6 Cummings 19 

7. . .  .Sellar'g  Lake 18 

12 . . .  Summit 13 

15 Ravenswood 10 

16 Pittman 9 

18. . . .  Altoona T 

20. . . .  Glendale 5 

21.... Umatilla 4 

25 Fort  Mason  ' 0 


Dist.  fr. 
Fort  Mason. 


1  Connects  with  branches  to  Tavares  and  Leesburg  (see  below). 

Connections  with  the  foregoing  at  Fort  Mason  (sixty-seven 

miles  from  Palatka).     This  line  is  U-shaped,  curving  around 

the  north  snore  of  Lake  Eustis.     The  stations  are  : 

0 Leesbnrg  > 23 

1 . . . .  <irandview 22  NE 

2  ...BeUe'reva 21    & 

5....Lanier8 18  8W 

6  ...Tilson IT    a 

7. . .  Oranpe  Bend 16 

8  . . .  Lisbon 15 

10 Lancaster 12 

11. . .  .Grand  Island 11 

V     14  ...Fort  Mason  2 9 

NE  16. . .  .Eustis    7 

&     17.... Mt.  Homer 6 

SW  20.... Tavares  ^ 3 

23  . .  Lane  Park 0 

'  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  to  Pemberton  Ferry,  etc..  and  to 
'Ocala,  etc.  (see  p.  48).     Also  with  F.  C.  A  P..  Southern  Division  (see  p.  48). 
'■'  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  branch  to  Astor  (see  above). 
3  Connects  with  J.,  T.  A  K.  VV.  branch  to  Sanford  (see  p.  48). 


Dist.  fr. 
Leesburg. 


Dirt.  fr. 
Lane  Park. 


Diet.  fr. 
Ocala. 


Diet.  fr. 
Brookeville. 


48  lakp:  county. 

Tho  iiiiiin  line  Florida  Southern  Eailway  (J.,  T.  &,  K.  W. 
Rystoni),  from  Ocala,  Marion  Coiinty,  and  beyond,  has  stations 
within  and  near  the  county  as  follows  : 

21 ... .  South  Lake  Weir  (Marion  Co.) 53 

24 Conant 50    N 

26 Lady  Lake 48    a 

29 Chetwynd     45      i 

30. . .  .Fruitland  Park 44 

34 LeeHburg  ' 40 

36. . .  .Corleys 38 

38...  Helena 36      I 

V     39 Okahumpka ' 35 

S     44....Casous 30      | 

48 ....  Centre  Hill  (Sumter  Co.) 26 

1  Conuects  witb  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  to  Fort  Mason  (see  p.  47) ;  F.  C.  &  P.  to 
Wildwood  (see  below) ;  and  Lake  Griflin  steamboats.  For  continuation  of  this 
line,  see  p.  63. 

The  Sanford  &  Lake  Eustis  Eailway  (J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  sys- 
tem), from  Sanford  to  Tavares,  has  the  following  stations  near 
and  within  the  county  : 

I       8.,..Markbam 21  -p. 

11. ...Ethel 18  -^ 

Dipt.fr.  16....Wayland 13  '>     Dist.fr. 

Sanford.     J,     19 ...  Sorrento 10      |      Tavares. 

24  ...Mt.Dora 5 


V 
W 


29 Tavares 0 


The  Southern  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  enters  the  county  from 
Sumter  County  on  the  west.  The  stations  adjacent  to  and 
within  the  county  are  : 

I       5 Bamboo  (Sumter  Co.) IT    j^ 

9 Montclair 13 

Dist.  fr.  11 . . . .  Leesburg  ' U     '}      Dist.fr. 

Wildwood.     J,     14. ...Sadie 8  Tavares. 

o     l.'i ....  Eldorado 7 


22 Tavares  2 0 


'  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  47^. 
2  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  47). 

The  Tavares,  Orlando  &  Atlantic  Eailroad  has  stations  as 
follows  within  and  adjacent  to  the  county  : 

0... Tavares' 32  N 

Dist.fr.        I       4...  Ellsworth 28  a       Dist.fr. 

Tavares.      V      8 Victoria 24  Orlando. 

8     10. . .  .Gainsboro  (Orange  Co.) 22  ' 

I  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  47),  and  F.  C.  &  P.  (sec 
iOiovc). 


LAKE  COUNTY— LEE  COUNTY.         49 

The  Tavares,  Apopka  &  Gulf  Railroad  has  stations  as  fol- 
lows : 

0.... Tavares  ' 29 

3....  Ellsworth 25     N 

8....Astatula 20    a 

Diet.  fr.  15....  West  Apopka U  Diet.  £r. 

Tavares.  20 .-. . .  Montverde 9  Clermont. 

V     23. . .  .Watts  Jc 6 

S     27  ...Mineola 2 

29... Clermont 0 

»  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W. ;  Tav.,  Or.  &  Atlantic  ;  and  F.  C.  &  P.  (see 
p.  48). 

The  Orange  Belt  Eailroad  from  St.  Petersburg,  on  Tampa 

Bay,  to  Monroe,   Orange  County,  lias  stations  near  to  and 

within  the  county  as  follows  : 

92 Cedar  Hammock  {Sumter  Co.) ... 57 

I        98 Mascotte 51    W 

Dist.  fr.       I      102.... Sheridan 47     a    -nis-f   f,. 

StPeters-     I      107 ....  Clermont ' 42      '      -l'^'"- "• 

burg.         V     109 Mineola 40 

E     110... Mohawk 39 

116 Killaruey  {Orange  Co.) 33 


Monroe. 


'  Connects  with  Tavares,  Apopka  &  Gulf  Railroad  (see  above). 


Lee  County. 

Area.  1,800  sq.  m.— Lat.  25°  50'  to  26°  58'  N.— Long.  81°  40'  to  82°  5'  W. 
—Population  (1890),  1,413.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $875,834.— County  seat, 
Myers. 

Lee  County  was  formed  by  act  of  Legislature  in  1887  out 
of  Monroe  County.  By  a  popular  vote  of  the  inhabitants  it 
was  named  after  General  Robert  E.  Lee,  the  Confederate 
leader.  Like  the  adjacent  counties  of  Dade  on  the  east,  De 
Soto  on  the  north,  and  Monroe  on  the  south,  it  still  is  a 
wilderness,  mainly  fore.st,  but  opening  toward  the  west  into 
the  vast  level  savannas  and  everglades  bordering  upon  Lake 
Okeechobee.  The  fact  that  until  1887  the  county  seat  (Key 
West)  was  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  from  the  north- 
ern limit  of  the  county  gives  an  idea  of  the  "  magnificent 
distances  "  of  this  region.  Fort  Myers,  or  Myers  as  it  is  now 
called,  is  the  j^resent  county  seat. 

There  are  as  yet  no  railroads  in  this  county,  the  nearest 
terminus  being  at  Puuta  Gorda,  about  nine  miles  north  of 
the  boundary  line.     Access  from  that  point  is  easy  by  means 


50 


LEE  COUNTY. 


of  steamboats  which  run  down  the  coast  to  Naples,  and  np 
the  Caloosahatcliee  River. 

The  Gulf  coast  is  well  provided  with  harbors  in  San  Carlos 
Bay,  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  Ostego  Bay. 


The  Caloosahatcliee  River  is  the  most  important  of  the 
watercourses,  finding  its  source  in  Lake  Okeechobee  and 
flowing  in  a  southwesterly  direction  to  the  Gulf.  For  twenty- 
three  miles  from  the  month  it  averages  more  than  a  mile  in 
widtli  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  about  seven  feet. 
Above    this   point   it  narrows,  to   about   one   hundred   and 


LEE  COUNTY— LEON  COUNTY.  51 

seventy-five  feet,  becomes  deeper,  with  banks  sometimes 
ten  to  twenty  feet  high  and  clothed  with  a  dense  growth  of 
virgin  forest.  The  Disston  Land  Company  has  straightened 
and  dee^jened  the  channels  connecting  with  the  great  lake, 
so  that  now  small  steamers  can  go  through  to  and  from  the 
Kissimmee  River,  crossing  Lake  Okeechobee. 

The  county  in  general  is  flat  and  low,  averaging  some 
thirty  feet  above  tide-water.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  to 
vegetables,  oranges,  pineapples,  sugar-cane,  and  all  the 
tropical  fruits.  The  lands  bordering  the  Upper  Caloosahat- 
chee  are  largely  vegetable  mould,  several  feet  in  depth,  and 
even  in  the  pine  lands  muck-ponds  are  found  at  short  inter- 
vals, affording  valuable  manure.  Considerable  quantities  of 
egg-jjlauts  and  tomatoes  are  shijjijed  to  the  North  in  January 
and  February,  and  the  strawberry,  which  ripens  here  in  Jan- 
uary, is  already  an  important  crop. 

Stock  raising  is  the  most  important  interest  of  Lee  County, 
and  from  Punta  Eassa,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Caloosahatchee, 
the  annual  shipments  to  Cuba  number  about  10, 000  head. 


Leon  County. 

Area,  900  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  15'  to  30°  41'  N.— Long.  84°  to  84°  55'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  ir,735.— Pop.  (18S0\  19,662.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $2,006,413. 
— Elevation,  250  feet,  near  Tallahassee. — County  seat,  Tallahassee. 

Leon  County  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  prosperous  in 
the  State.  To  the  stranger  apjDroaching  from  the  generally 
level  country  to  the  eastward  it  presents  a  pleasing  variety 
of  landscape,  with  its  wooded  hills  and  picturesque  valleys, 
its  hard  clay  roads,  its  groves  of  magnolia  and  live-oak,  and 
the  extensive  plantations  of  cotton,  sugar-cane,  tobacco,  and 
grain.  Pears,  peaches,  and  grapes  are  profitable  crops  and 
easily  cultivated. 

The  soil  is  clay  and  sand,  the  sand  predominating  in  what 
are  known  as  ' '  gray  hammocks  "  while  in  the  rich  lands  or 
•'veritable hammocks,"  as  they  are  locally  termed,  red  clay 
predominates  and  forms  a  permanently  rich  and  practically 
inexhaustible  soil,  suitable  for  almost  all  agricultural  pur- 


52 


LEON  COUNTY. 


poses.  Beneath  this,  at  a  depth  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  is  a  bed 
of  liuiestone,  through  which  run  .subterranean  rivers,  and  in 
which  are  formed  the  remarkable  "sinks"  that  are  among 
the  natural  curio.sities  of  tlie  region.  As  a  grazing  country 
Leon  County  is  noted  all  over  this  part  of  the  State. 
There  are  several  kinds  of  native  grass,  which  grow  with 
great  luxuriance,  and  are  apparently  quite  as  good  for  dairy 
stock  as  any  of  the  standard  Northern  grasses.     Among  these 


are  the  Bermuda  grass,  "  crab  grass,"  "  crow's  foot,"  and 
"  beggar  weed."  The  last  named  is  a  leguminous  plant 
which  springs  up  without  seeding  on  almost  all  cultivated 
land,  after  the  usual  market  crop  has  been  haiTested.  It 
possesses  excellent  fattening  qualities,  and  if  not  used  for 
pasturage  forms  a  fertilizing  crop  which  returns  to  the  sur- 
face soil  an  abundant  supply  of  excellent  manure.  The 
other  kinds  of  grass  make  good  hay  when  harvested  and 
cured.  All  kinds  of  live  stock  eat  them  with  avidity,  and 
thrive  as  well  as  on  the  Northern  varieties. 


LEON  COUNTY.  53 

During  the  existence  of  negro  slavery,  Leon  Connty  was 
mainly  occnpied  by  large  planters,  whose  estates  covered 
thousands  of  acres,  and  whose  wealth  enabled  them  to  live  in 
true  baronial  style.  Their  crops  of  cotton  and  tobacco  were 
hauled  to  the  St.  Mark's  River  and  shipped  thence  to  the 
markets  of  the  world.  Tallahassee,  the  capital  of  the  State 
and  the  county  seat,  was  the  social  centre  of  this  life  and 
still  retains  many  of  its  former  characteristics.  The  great 
plantations  are  now  largely  subdivided  and  sold  or  let  to 
small  tenants,  and  the  productive  energies  of  the  county  are 
adjusting  themselves  to  the  now  order  of  things. 

There  are  several  large  lakes  within  the  borders  of  the 
county,  all  of  which  afford  excellent  sport  for  the  fisherman, 
and  to  the  southward,  within  easy  reach,  is  an  almost  un- 
broken wilderness,  reaching  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  where 
there  is  an  abundance  of  game. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  county  is  drained  by  the  St.  Mark's 
River  (.see  p.  98)  and  the  western  part  by  the  Ocklockonee. 
Neither  of  these  streams  is  navigable  within  the  limits  of 
Leon  County. 

The  "Western  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  crosses  the  county  from 
east  to  west,  with  stations  in  and  near  the  county  as  follows  : 

I  147  .. .  Llovds  (Jefferson  Co.) 61  ^ 

Dist.fr.  153....Chaiies 55  ,        r>,Kffr 

Jackson-      '  165  .. .  Tallahassee  ■ 43  /^     Tjfvpr  Tr. 

viLe.        Z,  174....  Ocklockonee 34  i      ■"Jvcr.fi. 

^  m ...  Midway  (Gadsden  Co.) 31  ' 

'  Connects  with  St.  Mark's  Branch  F.  R.  &  N.  (see  below).  For  continua- 
tion east  see  p.  43  ;  west,  see  p.  32. 

The  St.  Mark's  Branch  F.  C.  &  P.  south  from  Tallahassee. 
Stations  are  : 

0,... Tallahassee' 21    N 


^Ta'lli^'  '^  ■■  ■??'»'*■--■  ■■•■•■••■_ 17     A     _Bist.  f r. 

hassee 


V    16....Wakulla  (irafcM^ia  Co.) 5  St.  Mark's. 

S    il....St.  Mark's  {Wakulla  Co.) 0      1 

'  Connects  with  Western  Division  F.  C,  &  P.  (see  above). 


54 


LEVY  COUNTY. 


Levy  County. 

Area,  940  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  to  29"  35'  N.— Long.  82°  22'  to  83°  5'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  0,57.').— Registered  vote,  1,540.— Pop.  (1880),  5,7CT.— Assegsed  valua- 
tion (1888),  $1,101,369.— Elevation,  120  ft.,  near  Bronson.— County  seat,  Bronson. 

Levy  County  was  organized  in  1850,  and  named  after  a 
leading  i^olitician  of  that  day,  who  soon  afterward  changed 


LEVY  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


his  name  to  Yulee.     He  was  a  senator  of  the  United  States 
and  prominent  in  the  movement  for  secession. 

A  large  proportion  of  the  land  in  Levy  County  is  undulat- 
ing pine  fore^i  with  a  sandy  soil  more  or  less  mixed  with 
loam  and  underlaid  with  limestone.  It  is  well  ada^sted  for 
the  cultivation  of  fruits  and  vegetables.     The  whole  county 


LEVY   COUNTY— LIBERTY   COUNTY.  55 

is  well  within  the  latitude  adapted  for  orauge  culture.  The 
Suwannee  Eiver  forms  the  northwestern  boundary,  and  is 
navigable  for  river  steamers,  as  is  the  Withlacoochee,  which 
forms  the  southeastern  boundary.  Midway  between  these 
two  is  the  Wacassassa  River,  navigable  for  small  boats,  and 
penetrating  what  is  known  as  the  Gulf  Hammock,  a  rich, 
fertile  tract  capable  of  producing  all  the  farm  crops  in  great 
abundance. 

The  coast  is  well  provided  with  harbors  for  small  craft, 
and  at  Cedar  Key  vessels  of  considerable  size  can  find  shelter 
and  secure  anchorage. 

The  best  oysters  on  the  Gulf  Coast  are  found  in  this  vicin- 
ity and  are  shipped  in  large  quantities  to  other  parts  of  the 
State. 

The  Cedar  Key  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  enters  the  county 
from  the  northeast.  Its  stations  near  and  within  the  county 
are  : 

29 Archer  {A lachua  Co.) 41  -.j p, 

I      38....Bronson 32    ^;^ 

Dist.  fr.  50....  Otter  Creek 20     '}       Dlst.  fr. 

Waldo.       '      51....Ellzey 19  Cedar  Key. 

c^TT  60  . . .  Rosewood 10 

*"^  70.... Cedar  Key 0      ' 

Connects  at  Gainesville  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system,  and  with  F.  C.  &  P. 
(see  pp.  4  and  5). 


Liberty  County. 

Area,  800  sq.  ni.— Lat.  30°  to  30"  40^  N.— Long.  84°  40'  to  85°  10'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  1,499.— Pop.  (1880),  1,362.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $238,012.— 
County  seat,  Bristol. 

Liberty  County  lies  between  the  Apalachieola  Eiver  on  the 
west  and  the  Ocklockonee  River  on  the  east.  The  land  is  for 
the  most  part  second  and  third  class  pine,  with  a  sandy  soil 
underlaid  with  clay.  Oranges  are  successfully  cultivated, 
and  the  rivers  and  lakes  abound  with  fish,  but  the  princiiml 
industry  is  stock-raising,  for  which  the  open  pine-woods  are 
admirably  suited.  No  railroads  have  as  yet  penetrated 
the  county,  but  the  Apalachieola  River  affords  steamboat 
communication  with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  with  the  Flor- 
ida Central  &,  Peninsula  Railroad  at  River  Junction. 

Bristol,  the  county  seat,  has  a  population  of  about  three 


no 


LIBERTY   COUNTY. 


Imndred  souls.     In  the  middle  of  the  county  ai'o  a  number 
of  small  lakes  from  one  to  five  miles  in  length.     Taluga 


JLIBERTY  COUNTY 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


Biver,  a  tributary  of  the  Ocklockonee,  and  New  River,  flowing 
directly  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  drain  the  central  portion  of 
the  county. 


MADISON   COUNTY. 


57 


Madison  County. 

Area,  650  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  12'  to  30°  3S'  N.— Long.  83°  W  to  83°  50'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  14,28S.— Pop.  (ISSO),  14,T98.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,- 
500,100. — County  seat,  Madison, 

The  eastern  half  of  Madison  County  is  mainly  pine  land, 
and  the  western  is  largely  hammock  of  good  quality.  The 
natural  division  between  these  two  tracts  rung  irregularly 


A         Y    "-^   L         '°~^ "     R    L. 
MADISON  COUNTY 


SCALE  OF  MILES 


north  and  south.  A  clay  subsoil  underlies  the  whole  region, 
farther  below  the  surface  among  the  pines  than  among  the 
hammocks.  In  both  divisions  the  soil  is  productive  and  so 
well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  Sea  Island  cotton  that  one 
of  the  largest  manufacturing  houses  in  the  world  has  estab- 
lished a  factory  at  Madison,  the  county  seat.  It  is  claimed 
that  nearly  one-twelfth  of  the  entire  long  staple  cotton  crop 
of  the  world  is  grown  in  Madison  County.  The  climate  can 
hardly  be  considered  semi-tropical,  but  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 


58  MADISON   COUNTY. 

is  near  enough  to  prevent  destructive  frosts,  the  nights  are 
generally  cool,  and  the  temperature  rai'ely  rises  above  ninety 
degrees  in  summer,  and  the  health  of  the  settled  jjortions  of 
the  county  is  exceptionally  good.  Figs  and  grapes  are 
among  the  most  prolific  of  the  fruit  crops.  Fig-trees  grow 
without  cultivation,  reaching  in  a  few  years  a  height  of  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet,  and  bearing  abundantly.  Grapes  are  raised 
in  large  quantities,  including  the  native  scui:)pernong,  and 
foreign  varieties,  including  the  black  Hamburg,  and  the 
wine-producing  industry  has  aleady  reached  respectable  pro- 
portions. Le  Conte  pears  have  been  introduced  within  a 
few  years,  and  with  peaches  can  be  ripened  for  the  North- 
ern markets  long  before  similar  fruits  come  to  perfection  in 
higher  latitudes. 

The  Suwannee  and  Aucilla  Elvers  with  their  tributaries 
drain  the  county,  aflbrding  abundant  water  and  numerous 
mill-sites.  In  the  extreme  southern  jjortion,  and  extending 
into  the  neighboring  counties  of  Taylor  and  Lafayette,  i.'^  a 
great  swamp,  known  as  San  Pedro  Bay.  It  has  never  been 
explored  beyond  a  short  distance  along  the  edges.  The  whole 
tract,  save  occasional  ridges  and  islands,  is  under  water,  and 
four  considerable  streams  flow  outward  in  difl:erent  direc- 
tions. These  are  the  Finholloway  and  the  Econfenee  on 
the  west,  and  the  Spring  Warrior  and  Steinhatchee  on  the 
east.  The  "bay"  is  a  noted  retreat  for  large  game,  including 
deer,  bear,  jianthers,  and  wolves.  It  is  no  trifling  matter  to 
hunt  in  this  region,  but  with  competent  guides  good  sport 
may  be  anticipated. 

The  "Western  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  bisects  the  county, 
crossing  it  from  east  to  west,  with  stations  at : 

94 Bncki  Jc.  {Suwannee  Co.) 113 

I        95....Ellaville 112     E 

Dist.  f  r.       I      103  .. .  Lees 104     a     jj-^t  ft- 


Jackson-      '      105  ....  West  Farm 102 

ville.        V     110. . .  .Madison 9T 

W    124.... Greenville 83 

131 Aucilla  {Jefferson  Co.) 76 


Elver  Jc. 


For  continuation  east  to  Jacksonville,  see  p.  91 ;  west  to  Tallahassee,  Pensa- 
cola,  etc.,  see  p.  43. 


MAXATEE  COUNTY. 


59 


Mauatee  County. 

Area,  1,330  sq.  m.— Lat.  26°  56'  to  27°  38'  N.— Long.  82"  to  82°  50'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  2,899.— Pop.  (1880),  3,544.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,257,922.40. 
— County  seat.  Manatee. 

Manatee  County  takes  its  name  from  the  manatee,  or  sea- 
cow,  an  animal  formerly  abundant  along  the  coasts  of  Flor- 


ida, but  now  nearly  extinct  (see  p.  218).  Lying  mainly  be- 
tween the  twenty-seventh  and  twenty-eighth  parallels  of 
latitude,  it  is  semi-tropical  in  all  its  climatic  characteris- 
tics, and  being  on  the  coast  its  range  of  temperature  is  still 
further  modified  by   the  equalizing  influence  of  the  Gulf. 


GO  MANATEE   COUXTV. 

Wilhout  projiulico  to  otlier  sections  it  may  Ije  said  that  tlin 
county  contains  a  greater  area  of  strictly  arable  land  than 
any  other  county  south  of  the  twenty-eighth  parallel.  There 
is  a  great  variety  of  soil  ranging  from  rich  hammocks  to 
worthless  swamps,  but  the  greater  part  is  pine  land  capable 
of  more  or  less  successful  cultivation  according  to  location. 
Some  excellent  farms  have  been  oj^ened  in  the  flat  woods, 
and  crops  can  be  grown  out  of  doors  the  whole  year  round. 
The  i^rairie  lands,  of  which  there  are  tens  of  thousands 
of  acres,  are  believed  to  be  productive,  but  at  latest  ail- 
■saces  no  considerable  attempt  has  been  made  to  cultivate 
them. 

The  garden  section  of  the  county  is  aloug  the  Manatee 
Biver,  which  is  bordered  by  some  of  the  richest  hammock 
laud  in  the  State,  and  smaller  hammocks  and  "bays"  exist 
all  through  the  piney  region. 

Early  vegetables  for  the  Northern  markets  are  cultivated 
with  great  success. 

The  coast  extends  from  Tampa  Bay  on  the  north  to  the 
headwaters  of  Charlotte  Harbor  on  the  south.  It  includes 
the  mouth  of  the  Manatee  River  and  Sarasosta  Bay  with  its 
outlying  keys,  and  affords  an  unsurpassed  cniising-ground 
for  pleasure  craft  suited  to  the  navigation  of  these  shallow 
waters.  Fish,  oysters,  and  turtle  abound,  the  tarpon  may 
be  caught  with  the  rod,  and  the  devil-fish  may  be  hari^ooned 
out  in  the  Gulf.  The  keys  are  many  of  them  quite  high 
and  well  adapted  for  residence  and  the  cultivation  of  the 
more  tender  sub-tropical  fruits. 

The  nearest  railway  connections  are  at  Tampa,  and  St. 
Petersburg  on  the  north  and  Punta  Gorda  on  the  south,  with 
which  points  there  is  constant  communication  by  coasting 
steamers  running  to  the  river  towns  on  Manatee  and  Sara- 
sosta Bay. 

The  county  is  a  great  cattle  range,  with  its  jorincipal  ship- 
ping point  at  Charlotte  Harbor  (see  Route  81).  The  fishing 
is  good  in  all  the  lakes  and  streams  as  well  as  along  the  coast, 
and  deer  are  found  within  a  few  miles  of  any  of  the  settle- 
ments. The  Manatee  and  the  Myakka  Rivers  are  navigable 
for  small  boats  far  up  into  the  interior,  and  these  aflTord  the 


MANATEE  COUNTY— MARION  COUNTY.      61 

easiest  access  to  the  best  Imutiug-grounds,  since  camp  equip- 
age cau  be  more  easily  carried  by  boat  than  by  any  otlier 
means  of  transportation. 


Mariou  County. 

Area,  1,55T  eq.  m.— Lat.  28°  55'  to  29°  30'  N.— Lonff.  81°  35'  to  82"  32'  W.— 
Populatlou  (1890),  20,T83.— Pop.  (1S80),  13,046.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $4,- 
222,200.— County  seat,  Ocala. 

Marion  County  lies  on  tlie  central  ridgo  of  the  Florida 
Peninsula,  the  natural  drainage  being  toward  the  Atlantic  on 
the  east,  and  toward  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  west.  The 
extent  from  north  to  south  is  thirty-eight  miles,  from  east 
to  west  fifty-four  miles,  and  ifc  is  one  of  the  richest  orange- 
growing  counties  in  the  State,  possessing  besides  some  of  the 
most  attractive  natural  sceneiy  and  many  of  the  most  popu- 
lar winter  resorts. 

The  land  is  divided  into  the  usual  grades  of  hammock, 
first,  second,  and  third  class  pine  and  scrub,  the  last  named, 
however,  being  confined  almost  wholly  to  the  townships 
lying  east  of  the  Ocklawaha  River,  omitting,  however,  the 
bend  of  the  stream  from  Moss  Bluff  to  Eaton,  where  there 
are  high  rolling  hills  and  excellent  soil.  The  rest  of  the 
county  is  very  attractive,  even  to  one  who  sees  it  only  from 
a  passing  train.  The  gently  swelling  hills  clothed  with  oj^en 
woods,  and  often  carpeted  with  green  grass,  suggest,  even  in 
midwinter,  some  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  North. 
There  is  an  almost  total  absence  of  the  scrub  palmetto,  witli 
which  the  traveller  becomes  so  familiar  as  the  almost  ever- 
present  undergrowth  of  the  pine  forests,  and  while  there  are 
wide  reaches  of  inferior  pine  barrens,  the  general  impression 
conveyed  is  of  a  naturally  rich  and  productive  country.  The 
native  growth  of  wild  orange -trees  suggested  grafting  to  the 
first  settlers,  and  the  result  has  been  some  of  the  finest 
groves  in  the  State,  or  even  in  the  world.  In  1889  valuable 
phosphate  beds  were  discovered  in  the  southwestern  part  of 
the  county.     Their  extent  is  not  definitely  determined. 

Of  veritable  high  hammock  land  it  is  estimated  that 
Marion  County  contains  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  acres, 


(52 


MARION   COUNTY. 


covered  with  a  ricli  and  practically  inexhaustible  regetable 
mould.     These  lands  were  under  cultivation  by  the  aborig- 


inal races  long  before  Eui'opeans  came,  and  here  the  Sem- 
inoles  made  their  most  resolute  stand  against  the  United 
States  forces  during  the  war  that  resulted  practically  in  their 
extermination  or  expulsion. 


MARION  COUNTY. 


60 
o 


Orange  Lake,  Lake  Weir,  Lake  Kerr,  Lake  Biyant,  and 
countless  smaller  bodies  of  water  are  within  the  borders  of 
the  county,  and  Lake  George,  forming  part  of  the  St.  John's 
Kiver,  touches  its  eastern  boundary.  The  Ocklawaha  River 
runs  across  the  county  from  south  to  north,  navigable  for  the 
entire  distance.  To  this  stream  are  tributary.  Silver  Spring 
Eun,  navigable  to  its  source,  and  Orange  Creek,  the  outlet 
of  Orange  Lake.  The  "Withlacoochee  River  defines  the 
southwestern  boundary,  with  Blue  River,  a  wonderfully  beau- 
tiful "  spring  run"  as  a  tributary. 

The  main  line  of  the  Florida  Soiithern  Railway  (J.,  T.  &  K. 
W.  system)  enters  the  county  from  Palatka,  etc.,  on  the 
north.     The  stations  near  and  within  the  county  are  : 

45...  Micanopy  Jc.  (Alachua  Co.) 101 

4T Boardman 99    N 

49. . . . Mcintosh 9T     a 

52....Lochbie 94 


Diet.  fr. 
Palatka. 


55 Oak  Lawn  ' 91 

5T. . .  Reddick 89 

63.... Martin 83 

TO....F.  C.  &  P.  CrosBing.. T6 

72....0cala'' 74 

82. . . .  Welshton 64 

85. . .  .Candler 61 

88 Oklawaha 58 

89  . .  .Weir  Park 57 

93 . . .  .South  Lake  Weir 53 

96 Conant  {Lake  Co.) 50 


Diet.  fr. 
Brooks  ville 


•  Branch  east  to  Citra,  6  m.  (see  helow). 

2  Connects  with  Silver  Spring,  Ocala  &  Gulf  Railway  (see  p.  64),  and  South- 
em  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  below). 
For  continuation  south,  see  p.  48 ;  north,  see  p.  4. 

The  Soutliern  Division  F.  C-  &  P.  crosses  the  outlet  of 
Orange  Lake  from  Alachua  County  on  the  north.  Its  sta- 
tions in  and  near  Marion  County  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Femandina. 


111.... Citra'  67 

117....Sparr8 61 

120. . .  .Anthony 58 

124. . .  .Spring  Park 54 

126 ... .  Silver  Spring  Jc.  2 52 

130....Ocala3 48 

141  ...  Belleview 37 

146  .. .  Summerfield S2 

151 ... .  Oxford  {Sumter  Co.) 27 


Dist.  fr. 
Tavares. 


'  Branch  west  to  Oak  Lawni,  6  m.  (see  above). 

2  Branch  west  to  Silver  Siiring,  1  m. 

3  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  X.  W.  system  (above) ;  Silver  Spring,  Ocala  &  Gulf 
Railway  to  Homosassa  (see  p.  64). 


04      MARION  COUNTY— MONROE  COUNTY. 

The  Silver  Spring,  Ocala  &  Gulf  Railroad  runs  southwest 
from  Ocala.     Its  stations  in  and  near  the  county  are  : 


0...  Ocala" 48 

I       3 Apnew 45  NE 

8....Martel 40  a     n-ot  fr 

is.t.  fr.           13)^.  Lcroy 34J.^  1      ^q'": 

"='^'"-  i  20,..  ^r'^^} 2^"^     -- 

SW  26....Dunel!on     22         | 

34 Citronelle  ( Citrus  Co.) 14 

1  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system,  and  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  p.  63). 


Monroe  County. 

Area,  land  and  water,  2,600  sq.  m.— Lat.  24"  30'  to  25'  50'  N— Long.  80°  40' 
to  82°  55'  W.— Population  (1890),  18,T64.— Assessed  valuation,  $1,408,458.— 
County  seat,  Key  West. 

The  county  as  it  exists  is  far  smaller  than  prior  to  1887, 
when  the  whole  northern  portion,  now  Lee  County,  was 
separated  for  convenience  of  administration.  The  popula- 
tion prior  to  the  division  was  10,940  (1880). 

Nearly  one-half  of  the  present  county  is  on  the  main  pen- 
insula of  Florida,  the  most  southerly  portion  of  the  territory 
of  the  United  States.  The  rest  comprises  the  long  line  of 
kej's  and  reefs  that  reach  from  Cape  Florida  on  the  east 
coast  of  the  peninsula  to  Key  West  and  the  Dry  Tortugas 
in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles.  The  peninsula  section  is  almost  uninhabited, 
and  has  been  only  partially  surveyed,  owing  to  the  nature  of 
the  country,  w'hich  has  not  yet  joroved  inviting  to  settlers, 
save  hunters  or  fishermen.  The  northern  and  western  part 
of  this  tract  is  more  or  less  available  as  a  cattle  range,  but  to- 
ward the  coast  innumerable  bayous  wind  in  and  out,  forming 
a  labyrinth  known  as  the  Ten  Thousand  Islands.  This  re- 
gion has  been  partially  mapped  by  the  United  States  Coast 
Survey.  It  affords  an  attractive  cruisiug-ground  for  sports- 
men provided  with  small  boats.  The  more  imi^ortant  part 
comprises  the  chain  of  keys  or  islands,  almost  wholly  com- 
posed of  coralline  rock,  which  sweeps  in  a  grand  curve  around 
the  end  of  the  peninsular  and  forms  the  northern  bank  of 
the  Gulf  stream,  at  its  very  source. 

Monroe  County  lies  between  the  twenty-fourth  and  twenty 


65 

oi- 
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ift, 
in- 
ice 
as 
m- 
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ty, 

er- 
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ed 

Qd 


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Qe 


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P. 

a, 

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le 


MONROE  COUNTY— NASSAU  COUNTY.  65 

sixth  parallels  of  latitude.  Frost  is  unknown  within  its  bor- 
ders, its  vegetation  is  strictly  tropical,  and  its  climate  milder 
than  any  other  part  of  the  Atlantic  seaboard. 

The  keys  (Spanish,  cayo,  island)  are  at  once  an  aid  and  a 
menace  to  navigation.  They  afford  shelter  to  small  craft, 
but  the  channels  are  so  tortuous  that  they  are  extremely  dan- 
gerous for  large  vessels.  Coral  reefs  approach  the  surface 
at  intervals  throughout  a  wide  belt  of  ocean.  As  soon  as 
they  are  built  up  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface  man- 
groves take  root  and  in  a  few  years  the  foundation  is  laid 
for  a  new  island. 

Key  West  (see  p.  323),  is  the  only  large  city  in  the  county, 
and  the  only  point  to  and  from  which  there  is  at  present  any 
regular  means  of  access.  Eailroads  there  are  none,  except 
tramways  at  Key  West,  but  the  possibility  of  a  southern  ter- 
minus for  a  line  down  the  eastern  coast  of  the  peninsula  is 
in  contemplation.  Turtle  Harbor  being  regarded  as  the  most 
favorable  locality.  It  has  even  been  seriously  suggested 
that  a  line  carried  on  trestles  from  key  to  key  is  not  beyond 
the  resources  of  modern  engineering. 

Several  lines  of  ocean  steamers  touch  regularly  at  Key  West, 
and  there  are  mail  packets  once  a  week  thence  to  Biscayne 
Bay  and  the  intermediate  Keys. 


Nassau  Coiiuty. 

Area,  600  sq.  m.— Lat.  30"  15'  to  30°  45'  N.— Long.  81°  26'  to  82°  5'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  8,293.— Pop.  (1880),  6,635.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $2,- 
564,351.— Highest  elevation,  25  to  30  feet. — County  seat,  Femandina.  See  p. 
127. 

Nassau  County,  named  by  its  early  settlers  after  William, 
Prince  of  Nassau,  is  the  northeastern  county  of  Florida.  Its 
northern  and  western  boundary  is  defined  by  the  St.  Mary's 
Eiver,  sejiarating  it  from  Georgia,  and  navigable  for  steam- 
boats as  far  as  Trader's  Hill,  thirty  miles  from  the  sea.  The 
Nassau  Eiver,  with  its  affluent,  Thomas  Creek,  forms  nearly 
the  .whole  of  its  southern  boundary. 

The  soil  varies  from  the  clays  and  marls  of  the  river-bot- 
toms to  sandy  loam  and  sand  near  the  coast  and  among  the 


66 


NASSAU   COUNTY. 


pines  of  the  interior.  The  immediate  sea-coast  is  formed  by 
Amelia  Island.  It  is  covered  with  calcareous  sand  and  is 
one  of  the  islands  where  the  famous  long  staple  sea-island 
cotton  originated.  Similar  soil  is  found  along  some  of  the 
sea-coast  rivers,  often  in  connection  with  what  are  known  as 


"  fresh  marsh  and  black  rush  lands,"  which  are  considered 
very  valuable  for  gardening. 

Corn,  cotton,  and  oats  are  the  principal  commercial  pro- 
ducts, and  early  vegetables,  strawberries,  and  melons  are  suc- 
cessfully raised  for  the  Northern  markets.  Many  of  the 
semi-tropical  fruits  can  be  grown,  but  not  with  sufficient 
certainty  to  make  them  profitable  crops. 

The  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Railroad,  the  main  ave- 


NASSAU  COUNTY. 


67 


nue  of  commerce  between  Florida  and  the  North,  enters  the 
county  at  the  northwestern  angle,  running  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  to  Jacksonville,  in  Duval,  the  adjacent  county. 
Stations  near  and  within  the  county  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
VV^ay 
Cross. 


35 Folkston  (Georgia) 41 

1        40 Boulogne 36 

1        46....Hilliard 30 

V       56.... Callahan  ' 20 

SW     64. . .  .Dinsmore  (Duval  Co.) 12 

76 JackBonville  '■*  (Duval  Co.) 0 


NW 
A 


Dist.  fr. 
Jack- 
sonville. 


'  Crosses  F.  R.  &  N.,  Southern  Division  (see  below). 

2  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  pp.  25  and  26) ;  Jack- 
sonville, Mayport  &  Pablo  Railway  (see  p.  26).  Also  with  ocean  steamers  to  the 
North,  St.  John's  River  steamboats. 

The  Southern  Division  F.  0.  &  P.  (Fernandina  to  Orlando) 
has  the  following  stations  in  and  near  the  county  : 


Dist.  fr. 

Fer- 
nandina. 


SW 


0 Fernandina  ' 4T 

11 ... .  Hart's  Road  Jc.  ^ 36 

19. ...Italia 28 

27 ... .  Callahan  3 23 

32  . . .  Crawford 15 

37  ...Dutton 10 

41  . .  Brandy  Branch 6 

47 Ba'.dwiu  ■>  (Dttvai  Co.) o 


NE 
A 


Dist.  fr. 
Baldwin. 


'  Connects  with  ocean  steamers. 

"  Connects  with  Jacksonville  &  Fernandina  Branch  F.  R.  &  N.  (see  below). 

=  Crosses  S.  F.  &  W.  Ry.,  Jacksonville  Division  (see  above). 

••  Connects  with  Western  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  p.  7). 


The  Jacksonville  and  Fernandina  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  runs 
nearly  north  from  Jacksonville  to  Hart's  Road,  thence  east  to 
Fernandina.     Its  stations  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Jack- 
sonville. 


0 Jacksonville  ' 37 

5 Jacksonville  Jc 32 

15. . .  .Duval 22 

27.... Hart's  Road 2  10 

37.... Fernandina 5 0 


Dist.  fr. 
Fernandina. 


>  Connects  with  railroads  and  steamers  out  of  Jacksonville  (see  pp.  25  and ! 

2  Connects  with  Southern  Division  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  above). 

3  Connects  with  ocean  steamers. 


68 


ORANGE  COUNTY. 


Oraii?^e  County. 

Area,  1,250  sq.  m.— Lat.  28"  20'  to  28°  52'  N.— Long.  80°  50'  to  SI''  40'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  12,5T9.— Pop.  (1880),  6,618.— Assessed  valuation,  $4,652,573. 
— County  8eat,  Orlando. 

Orange  County,  as  its  name  implies,  is  in  the  central  orange 
belt  of  the  peninsula,  and  includes  some  of  the  most  exten- 


sive groves  in  the  State.  The  head  waters  of  the  St.  John's 
Kiver  form  its  eastern  boundary,  and  a  group  of  lakes  adds 
greatly   to   the   natural   attractions   of    the  region.      Lake 


ORANGE  COUNTY.  09 

Apopka,  lying  mainly  within  the  western  boundary  of  the 
county,  is  second  in  size  only  to  Okeechobee,  and  Lakes 
Monroe,  Jessu^j,  Harney,  Butler,  Conway,  Maitland,  and 
many  othei*s,  range  from  a  few  acres  up  to  thousands  of 
acres  in  extent.  Almost  without  exception  the  land  rises 
from  the  water  in  gently  rolling  hills,  securing  immunity 
from  malarial  influences  and  affording  unsurpassed  sites  for 
homes  and  for  the  cultivation  of  the  various  crops. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  varied  and  the  soil  con-esponds. 
There  are  high  and  low  hammocks,  high,  medium,  and  flat 
pine  lands,  bay-heads  and  savannahs,  all  of  which  are  cajaable 
of  different  uses  for  the  agriculturist  and  horticulturist.  A 
l^artial  list  of  the  fruits  that  can  be  successfully  and  profit- 
ably grown  in  this  county  includes  oranges,  lemons,  limes, 
grape-fruit,  shaddock,  citron,  guava,  pineapples,  pomegran- 
ates, Japanese  plums,  figs,  etc.  Rice,  sugar-cane,  cassava, 
strawberries,  plums,  and  early  vegetables  are  cultivated  with 
success. 

The  central  and  northwestern  townships  are  the  most  at- 
tractive, and  contain  most  of  the  population.  Toward  the 
east  and  south  there  are  few  or  no  settlements  and  an  abun- 
dance of  game  during  the  winter  months. 

The  larger  lakes  and  the  St.  John's  Eiver  above  Lake 
Monroe  are  navigable  for  launches  and  small  craft,  but  there 
are  at  j^resent  no  regular  boats  running  above  Sanford. 

The  main  line  of  the  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  enters  the 
county  from  the  north,  with  stations  in  and  near  Orange 
County  as  follows : 

Dist.fr.        I      0 Enterprise  Jc'  (Fo^jwza  Co.) 7     N     -r,,  .   ^ 

Enterprise     V     4....Monroe2 3     a     Worrt 

J»  8     7.... Sanford  3 0      |      ^a^^orQ- 

'  Connects  Indian  River  Branch  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  97). 

2  Connects  Orange  Belt  Railroad  (see  p.  70). 

3  Connects  South  Florida  Railway  (see  p.  70) ;  and  Sanford  &  Indian  River 
Railway  (see  p.  71). 

For  continuation  of  this  line  north,  see  p.  97  ;  south,  see  below  and  p.  70. 

The  South  Florida  Railway,  connecting  with  the  J.,  T. 
&  K.  W.  system  at  a  station  used  in  common,  has  stations  as 
follows  within  and  near  the  countv  : 


70 


ORANGE  COUNTY, 


Dist.  fr. 
Sanford. 


15. 
18. 
20. 
21. 
24. 
26. 
30.. 
32.. 
34.. 
39  . 
'  Connects  J. , 


Dist.  fr. 
St.  Peters- 
burg. 


0. . .  .Sanford  ' 124 

3....Belair 121     N 

5 . . . .  Lake  Mary 119     a 

10 Long  wood  ^ .    114 

13  ...  Altainonte  Spring Ill  Dist.fr. 

15....Maitland  109  Port 

IS.... Winter  Park 106  Tampa. 

22.... Orlando  s  102 

V     27 Pine  Castle 97 

S     34....McKinnon 90 

40  .  ..Kiesimmee  ■•  (O.sreote  Co.) 84 

'  Connects  J..  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (p.  69),  and  Sanford  &  Indian  River  Kail- 
way  (p.  71),  and  St.  John's  River  steamboats, 
'■i  Connects  Florida  Midland  Railway  (below). 
3  Connects  Tavares,  Orlando  &  Atlantic  Railway. 
*  Connects  Kissimmee  River  steamers. 

The  Orange  Belt  Bailroad,  Monroe  to  Petersburg  on  Tampa 
Bay,  has  stations  in  and  adjacent  to  tlie  county  as  follows: 

0 Monroe  ' 149 

2....Svlvan  Lake 147     NE 

4  ...PaoJa^ 145       A 

6. . .  .Island Lake 143 

9. . . .  Glen  Ethel 140 

11 ... .  Groveland  138 

12. . .  .Palm  Springs  ^ 137 

— Granada — 

Dist.  fr.  15.... Forest  City 134 

Monroe.  18. . .  .Toronto  - 131 

. . .  Lakeville 129 

. . .  Clarcona  ^ 12S 

. .  .Millerton 125 

...Crown   Point 123 

.Winter    Garden 119 

. .  .Oakland 117 

. . .  Killamy 115 

...Mohawk  {Sumter  Co.) 110 

T,  &  K.  W.  Bvstem  (see  p.  69). 
s Crosses  Sanford  &  Lake  Eustis  Branch  J..  T.  &  K.  W.  system. 
3  Crosses  Florida  Midland  Railway  (see  below). 

*  Connects  Tavares.  Or:ando  &  Atlantic  Railway. 

*  Crosses  Florida  Midland  Railway. 
For  continuation  southwest,  see  p.  87. 

The  Florida  Midland  Railway  lies  ■wholly  within  the  coun 

ty.     Its  stations  are : 

0 Longwood  ' 27 

3  ...Palm  Springs 2   24    N 

4 Altamonte 23     a  • 

6. . .  .Lake  Brantly 21 

8....Fitzville 19 

10...  East  Apopka 17 

11 ... .  Apopka  3 16 

15 Clarcona  * 12 

18.... Villa  Nova .9 

20.... Oconee 7 

V     21....Minorville 6 

S     23....Gotha 4 

27 Englewood 0 

'  Connects  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  69). 
"Crosses  Oranire  Belt  Railway  (see  above). 
5  Crosses  Tavares.  Orlando  &"Atlantic  Railway. 
*  Crosses  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  above). 


V 

sw 


Dist.  fr. 
Longwood. 


Dist.  fr. 
Englewood. 


ORANGE  COUNTY— OSCEOLA  COUNTY. 


71 


The  Sanford  &  Indian  River  Eailroad  (S.  F.  Ry. 
is  completed  to  Lake  Charm.     The  stations  are  : 

0. . . . Sanford 19 

2 SpeerGrove 17     N 

3....FortKeed 16     ^ 

3.5  ...Onoro 15.5 

4 Silver  Lake 15 

D:st.fr.  5....Rutledge 14 

Sanford.  6...  Lords 13 

T....Clyde8 12 

12....CUfton T 

V    14....Tnscawilla 5 

S    io     jOviedo,         \ 

^^-  •  tLake  Charm  j" 


system), 


0 


Diet.  fr. 

Lake 
Charm. 


Osceola  Coiintj. 

Area,  2,520  sq.  m.— Lat.  27°  10'  to  28°  30'  N.— Long.  80°  50'  to  81°  35'  W.— 
Popu'.ation  (1890),  3,122.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,667,895.— County  seat, 
Eissimmee. 

Osceola  County,  named  after  the  famous  Seminole  Chief, 
was  formed  by  act  of  the  State  Legislature  in  1887,  from 
l^arts  of  Orange  and  Brevard  Counties.  A  series  of  large 
lakes,  Tohopekaliga,  Cypress,  Hatcheneka,  and  Kissimmee, 
connected  by  canals  and  natural  channels,  form  the  head- 
■waters  of  the  Kissimmee  River,  flowing  southward  to  Lake 
Okeechobee,  and  thence  through  the  Caloosahatchee  River 
to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  whole  system  of  inland  water- 
courses is  navigable  to  Kissimmee  at  the  head  of  the  chain 
of  lakes.  The  surface  of  the  country  is  generally  level  or 
slightly  rolling,  with  vast  tracts  of  rich,  low-lying  prairie 
land.  The  soil  is  especially  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of 
vegetables,  which  can  be  brought  to  perfection,  in  ordinary 
seasons,  in  January  and  February. 

The  latitude  of  the  northern  extremity  of  the  county  is  28'^ 
30',  assuring  almost  entire  freedom  from  frosts  and  an  abun- 
dance of  grass  for  stock-raising  during  the  whole  year.  A 
large  number  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  swine  range  the  woods  with- 
out shelter,  and  are  "  rounded  up  "  at  stated  seasons,  afford- 
ing one  of  the  most  profitable  industries  of  the  county. 
Large  quantities  of  sugar-cane  have  been  planted  on  the  re- 
cently reclaimed  lands,  with  every  prospect  of  a  speedy  and 
bountiful  yield. 


72 


ORCEOLA   COUNTY. 


The  temperature  at  Kissimmee  rarely  rises  above  90°  in 
the  summer,  and  the  natural  healthfulness  of  the  locality 


— i; — 1-  -7f-f^^ 

1        Shingle  Cr   rf'  o 
•Ft.Daveuport      ' 


D      E  SOTO 


OSCEOLA  COUNTY 


SCALE  OF  MILES 

I— I     1-^     I— I     ^     r— i-i 

0  5  10 


has  been  singularly  confirmed  by  the  experience  of  the  white 


OSCEOLA  COUNTY.  7,3 

age  company.  Since  1881  these  men  have  been  employed 
without  intermission,  even  in  summer,  and  have  enjoyed  un- 
interrupted health.  Not  a  single  death  had  occuiTed  up  to 
March,  1889,  and  it  had  never  been  necessary  to  send  for  a 
physician.  As  the  work  is  carried  on  in  a  region  usually 
supposed  to  be  highly  malarial,  this  record  is  certainly  note- 
worthy. 

Osceola  County  is  settled  only  at  its  northern  extremity. 
To  the  south  of  Lake  Tohopekaliga  the  wilderness  is  almost 
unbroken.  Game  abounds,  and  a  large  part  of  the  egion  is 
accessible  in  small  boats  by  taking  advantage  of  the  creeks 
and  numerous  small  lakes  that  abound  throughout  this  re- 
gion. 

Within  a  few  years  past  large  drainage  operations  have 
been  undertaken  under  State  patronage  by  the  Okeechobee 
Drainage  Company,  which  have  reclaimed  extensive  tracts  of 
land  in  Osceola  County,  and  bid  fair  largely  to  increase  the 
sugar  product  of  the  State. 

The  South  Florida  Railway  from  Orange  County  on  the 
north  crosses  the  northwest  corner  of  the  county  with  sta- 
tions near  and  within  the  boundaries  as  follow  : 

I      34 McKinnon  (Orange  Co.) 90  N  t,.  .    ^ 

Dist.fr.       I      40....Iiissimmee 84  a  ^l|'-"- 

Sauford.     V     44. .  ..Cambells 80  i  rp     " 

S     57....Davenport  (Poit  Co.) 6T  |  -lampa. 

For  continuation  of  this  line  north,  see  p.  TO  ;  south,  see  p.  79. 


74 


PASCO   (JOUNTY. 


Pasco  County. 

Area,  1,700  sq.  m.— Lat.  23"  9'  to  28"  29'  N.— Long.  82°  to  82"  4^  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  4,249.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $954,329.— County  seat,  Dade 
City. 

This  county  was  formed  in  1887  from  the  southern  part  of 
Hernando  County.  In  soil  and  climate  it  is  among  the  most 
favored  of  the  Gulf  counties,  lying  just  above  the  twenty- 
eighth  parallel  of  latitude  and  within  the  influence  of  the 
warm  Gulf  breezes.  For  the  most  part  the  soil  is  naturally 
of  the  better  grade  of  pine  lands,  underlaid  with  clay,  marl, 
and  limestone.  There  are  large  areas  of  rich  hammock,  es- 
i:)ecially  in  the  western  townships,  which  send  some  of  the 
most  noteworthy  exhibits  to  the  annual  fair  at  Ocala. 

Cotton,  oats,  rice,  corn,  and  sugar-cane,  are  the  staple^ 
and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  have  been  introduced  within  the 
past  few  years.  The  Pithlaschoscootee  and  Anclote  Rivers 
drain  the  eastern  jiart  of  the  county,  and  the  Withlacoochee 
and  Hillsborough  drain  the  western  part.  In  some  sections 
the  land  rises  to  the  height  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  above 
tide-water,  and  the  high  hammocks  are  covered  with  a  mag- 
nificent growth  of  hard  wood. 

The  hunting  and  fishing  are  good,  but  for  large  game  it  is 
necessary  to  go  ten  or  twelve  miles  from  the  railroads,  and 
guides  with  camping  outfits  are  indispensable  for  strangers. 

The  Orange  Belt  Railway  enters  from  Hernando  County 
on  the  north  and  crosses  it  southwest  and  northeast.  The 
stations  adjacent  to  and  within  the  county  are  : 


Diet.  fr. 
Monroe. 


V 

sw 


66 Wyoming  (Hernando  Co.) 83 

71 Lacoochee ' 78 

73.... Macon  a 76 

75 .  . .  Leonard  74 

78....Blanton 71 

79....Cliipco 70 

84 San  Antonio 65 

88.... Pasco 61 

91  . .  Big  Cypress 58 

98  . . .  Drexel •. 51 

106  ...Odessa 43 

117 Tarpon  SpTings(Hilhborough  Co.)32 


NE 
A 


Dist.  fr. 

St.  Pet- 
ersbui"g. 


1  Crosses  Tampa  Branch  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  p.  76). 

2  Crosses  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  (see  p.  76). 
For  continuation  nortb,  see  p.   35 ;  south,  see  p.  38. 


22. 

I      23. 

Dist.  fr. 

1      30. 

Wildwood. 

V    31; . 

S      44. 

Gl. 

70  I'ASCO   COUNTY— POLK   COUNTY. 

The  Tanii)a  l>raiich  of  tlio  F.  C.  &  P.  enters  from  Hernando 
County  on  the  north.     Stations    in  and  near  the  county  are  : 

. .  .Withliicoochee  {Sumter  Co.) 39 

. . . Lacoochee ' 33  N 

, . .  Owensboro  2 31  a       DiKt.  fr. 

..Dade  City 2.5  j      Plant  City. 

...Abbott 17  I 

, .  .Plant  City  {Hillsborough  Co.) 0 

'  Crosses  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  p.  74). 
'■J  Crosses  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  (see  below). 
For  continuation  north,  see  p.  35. 

The  Pemberton  Feriy  Branch  of  the  South  Florida  Pail- 
way  (J.,  T.  k  K.  W.  system)  has  stations  within  and  near 
the  county  at : 

.  .Bay  City  {Hernando  Co.) .51 

..Macon  47    N 

..  Orange  Belt  Jc.  ' 4G     a 

. .  Owensboro  '■' 45 

. .  Dade  City 41 

.  Ellerslie  35 

..Richland 34     I 

. .  Tedderville 25      | 

..Kathleen  {Polk  Co.) 20 

'  Crosses  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  p.  74). 
2  Crosses  Tampa  Branch  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  above). 
For  continuatiou  north,  see  p.  35  ;  south,  see  p.  80. 


6.. 

10.. 

11.. 

Dist.  fr. 

12.. 

Pemberton 

16.. 

Ferry. 

22.. 

k'     23.. 

f 

i     32.. 

37.. 

Dist.  fr. 
Bartow. 


Polk  County. 

Area,  1,980  sq.  m.— Lat.  27°  35'  to  28°  10'  N.— Long.  81°  25'  to  82"  2'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  7,897.— Pop.  (1880),  3,181.— Assessed  valuation,  $3,500,000.— 
County  seat,  Bartow. 

The  county  was  formed  in  1859,  by  act  of  the  State  legis- 
lature, from  portions  of  the  large  neighboring  counties  of 
Hillsborough,  Orange,  and  Sumter,  but  its  organization  was 
interrupted  by  the  Civil  War,  and  not  perfected,  in  its  pres- 
ent .shape  until  1874.  It  is  named  after  James  K.  Polk,  elev- 
enth President  of  the  United  States.  The  twenty-fifth  par- 
allel of  latitude  runs  nearly  through  the  middle  of  the  county. 
It  was  settled  mainly  by  cattle  men,  who  had  served  in  the  In- 
dian wars  and  noted  the  natural  advantages  of  the  country. 
Its  average  elevation  above  the  sea  is  estimated  at  150  feet, 
and  its  greatest  elevation,  according  to  the  levels  run  by  the 
engineers  of  the  South  Florida  Railroad,  is  235  feet.  Nearly 
one-fifth  of  the  surface  is  water,  in  lakes  of  every  conceivable 


POLK  COUNTY.  <7 

size  and  shape,  from  Lake  Kissimmee,  eighteen  miles  long, 
down  to  little  pools  too  small  to  be  shown  on  the  map,  but 
sometimes  indicated  by  a  dot.  As  a  rule,  these  lakes  are  full 
of  pure,  clear  water,  and  well  stocked  with  fish.  Most  of 
them  are  deep  enough  to  deserve  the  name  of  lakes  or 
l^onds,  but  some  are  little  better  than  savannahs.  The  lake 
region  iiroper  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  county.     The  north- 


POEK  CO. 


ern  portion  of  this  region  is  high  rolling  land,  the  bluffs  ris- 
ing sharply  from  the  lake  shores  sometimes  as  much  as  sixty 
feet.  These  afford  an  endless  niimber  of  excellent  building 
sites,  with  the  advantage,  somewhat  unusual  in  Floi'ida,  of  a 
decided  elevation. 

The  land  is  sandy  and  sandy  loam,  and  the  usual  variety  of 
high  and  low  hammock  and  the  three  grades  of  pine  land  are 
well  distributed  over  the  countv.     Toward  the  south  the 


7S  I'OLK   COUNTY. 

face  of  the  country  is  more  generally  level,  and  prairies  are 
more  frequent. 

Tlie  Kissimmco  Iliver,  hero  mainly  a  succession  of  lakes, 
is  navigable  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  through  Lake  Okeechobee 
and  tho  Caloosahatchee  River.  Peace  River  is  navigable  for 
small  boats  to  Fort  Meade.  This  stream  falls  into  Char- 
lotte Harbor  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  tributaries,  with 
those  of  the  Alalia  and  the  Withlacoochee  Rivers,  drain  a 
wide  region  in  the  southern  and  western  part  of  the  couniy. 

The  best  grade  of  pine  lands  in  this  region  are  considered 
most  desirable  for  agricultural  purposes,  because,  under 
judicious  cultivation,  their  productiveness  seems  to  increase, 
while  the  high  hammocks  deteriorate  after  a  few  years  of 
astonishing  productiveness.  The  dryer  kinds  of  low  ham- 
mock are  prized  for  general  farming  and  garden  crops,  es- 
pecially the  early  vegetables  that  are  becoming  such  an  im- 
portant factor  in  the  commerce  of  the  State. 

The  timber  is  mainly  pine  and  cypress,  but  all  the  hard 
woods  are  found  in  the  hammocks. 

The  summer  temperature  ranges  from  86'  to  97°  at  mid- 
day, falling  some  twenty  degrees  during  the  night.  In  the 
winter  the  ordinary  range  is  from  45°  to  75°,  with,  however, 
occasional  northers,  when  the  thermometer  drops  very  sud- 
denly to  the  freezing-point.  After  the  first  of  February  im- 
munity from  frost  is  almost  certain,  and  the  thermometer 
ranges  from  60°  to  78°.  The  rainy  season  begins  in  June 
and  lasts  till  the  middle  or  end  of  September,  rain  falling,  as 
a  rule,  almost  every  day. 

The  vital  statistics  of  the  county  show  that  general  health 
is  good,  the  death-rate  from  ordinary  diseases  very  low. 

The  county  commissioners  of  Polk  County  certify  the  follow- 
ing list  of  its  products:  Corn,  oats,  rye,  pumpkins,  squashes, 
beans  in  variety  (tho  snap  and  lima  runners  being  very  pro- 
lific), peas  (in  variety),  i^otatoes,  beets,  carrots,  onions,  pars- 
nips, egg-plant,  cucumbers,  cantaloupes,  water-melons,  cab- 
bages, collards,  cauliflower,  kohl-rabi,  ruta-bagas,  turnips, 
pepper,  okra,  tomatoes,  lettuce,  salsify,  spinach,  miistard, 
sorghum,  sugar-cane,  cassava,  arrow-root,  ginger,  chufas, 
pindars  or  ground  peas,  goubers,  grass-nuts,  pie  melon,  etc. 


POLK  COUNTY.  i'J 

Of  plants  and  herbs,  sweet  marjoram,  thyme,  tea-plants, 
castor-bean,  and  benue.  Of  fruits,  orange,  sweet,  bitter-sweet, 
and  sour;  lemons,  limes,  grapes,  peaches,  LeConte  and  avo- 
cado pears,  tiger  api^les,  sugar  apples,  citron,  shaddocks, 
grape-fruit,  mangoes,  Japan  plums,  bananas,  pineapples, 
guavas,  plums,  j^omegranates,  figs,  olives,  and  pecans. 
Many  of  these  are  not  recommended  as  profitable  crops. 
The  list  is  given  to  show  the  possible  range  of  agricultural 
resources. 

The  Polk  County  region  was  a  favorite  hunting  and  farm- 
ing ground  of  the  aboriginal  races,  and  mounds  and  other 
evidences  of  prehistoric  habitations  are  found.  "When  the 
United  States  surveys  were  made  in  184:8  numerous  evi- 
dences existed  of  extensive  cultivation,  but  the  luxuriant 
forest  growth  has  nearly  obliterated  most  of  them  at  the 
present  time. 

The  South  Florida  Railway  enters  the  county  from  Pagco 
County  (northwest),  and  Osceola  County  (northeast),  ita 
branches  forming  a  triangle  in  the  heart  of  the  county.  The 
main  line  has  stations  near  and  within  the  county  as  follows  : 


42  ...  Campbells  (Osceola  Co.) 71 

50...  Lake  Locke... 63   NE 

54 Emmanton 61    /\ 

57  . .  Davenport 58      I 

61...  Haines  City 54      1 

68. . .  .Bartow  Jc.  ' 47  Diet.  fr. 

72  ...Anburndale 43  Port 

77 ... .  Fitshughs 38  Tampa. 

81 Acton  34 

83 Lakeland  = 32 

V       93....  Plant  City 22 

SW  115. ...Tampa 9 

124. . .  .Port  Tampa 0 


DIst.  fr. 
Sanford. 


"  Connects  Bartow  Branch  (see  below). 

^  Connects  Pemberton  Ferry  Branch  (see  p.  80). 


The  Bartow  Branch  stations  are  : 

I  0 Bartow  Jc.i IT  -kjtj" 

■n:„(.   f-  5 ...  Winter  Haven  12     .  T^•  f 

RortV/wTn       v  9....  Eagle  Lake 8    ^^      ,     ^'^V 

BartowJc.      V  2,...Go?don8ville .5  fr.  Bartow. 

°^  IT.... Bartow •■' 0      I 

I  Connects  with  main  line  to  Tampa,  south,  and  Sanford,  northeast. 
-  Connects  F.  S.  (J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system)  for  Punta  Gorda,  Charlotte  Harbor, 
etc. 


80        rOLK  COUNTY— PUTNAM  COUNTY. 

The  Pemberton  Ferry  Branch  has  stations  near  and  within 
Polk  County  as  follows : 

23 ... .  Richlaud  (Pasco  Co.) 31 

I      32. . .  .Tedderville 22  NNW 

Dist.fr  37 ....  Kathleen  17      a      Dist.  fr. 

Pemberton     1      40  . . .  Griffin's  Mill 17       I  Pimta 

Ferry.         V     43 . . .  Lakeland ' 14  Bartow. 

S8E  51.... Haskell 6       | 

57....Bartow2 0 

■  Crosges  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  from  San  ford  and  Tampa. 

'^  Connects  Bartow  branch  and  1'".  S.  Ky.  to  Punta  Gorda. 


Putnam  County. 

Area,  860  sq.  m.— Lat.  29"  20'  to  29"  50'  N.— Long.  81"  25'  to  82"  2'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  11,166.— Pop.  (1880),  6,261.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $4,130,503. 
—County  seat,  Palatka. 

Putnam  County  is  one  of  several  organized  in  1847,  after 
the  first  Seminole  war.  It  is  named  after  General  Israel 
Pufrnam,  of  the  Revolutionary  Army.  The  shajje  is  very  ir- 
regular, some  of  the  boundaries  being  crooked  rivers,  and 
others  arbitrary  lines.  As  is  often  the  case  in  Florida,  it  is 
impossible  to  give  a  general  statement  of  the  topography. 
The  great  river  St.  John's  divides  the  county  into  two  por- 
tions, of  which  the  western  is  by  far  the  larger.  Orange 
Creek,  the  navigable  outlet  of  Orange  Lake,  just  over  the 
line,  in  Alachua  County,  joins  the  Ocklawaha  Eiver  at  the 
southern  boixler,  and  together  they  form  a  considerable 
stream  tributary  to  the  St.  Johns,  and  one  of  the  famous 
tourist  routes  of  Florida  (Route  181).  Except  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  the  water-courses  the  western  part  of  the 
county  is  gently  undulating,  covered  with  heavy  pine  forests, 
which  are  rapidly  giving  way  to  orange  groves.  Through 
this  compairatively  low  region  there  runs  an  elevated  rolling 
plateau,  ten  or  fifteen  miles  wide,  and  in  some  places  said 
to  be  two  hundred  feet  above  tide-water.  This  plateau  is 
dotted  all  over  with  lakelets,  surrounded  by  wooded  hills. 
Here  and  there  are  prairies  and  swamps  of  moderate  extent. 
An  attractive  section  of  the  county  is  the  Fruitland  Penin- 
sula, a  tract  of  land  eight  or  ten  miles  wide,  somewhat  re- 
sembling the  plateau  just  described  lying  between  the  St. 
John's  River  on  the  west  and  Crescent  Lake  on  the  east.    Its 


PUTNAM  COUNTY. 


81 


surface  is  generally  tilly,  interspersed  with  lakes,  forests, 
and  occasiual  marslies.  The  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Railway  system 
passes  through  the  entire  length  of  the  peninsula.  Crescent 
Lake  is  a  navigable  body  of  water,  having  easy  steamboat 
connection  with  the  St.  John's  Eiver  through  Dunn's  Creek, 


the  outlet  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lake.  To  the 
north  of  this  stream,  still  on  the  east  side  of  the  St,  John's 
Eiver,  is  a  fine  orange  region,  including  some  of  the  oldest 
and  best  groves  in  the  State.  The  St.  John's  Eiver  through- 
out this  portion  of  its  course  is  practically  a  series  of  lakes, 
varying  in  width  from  a  mile  to  four  miles.  It  is  slightly 
affected  by  the  ocean  tides  as  far  up  as  Lake  George,  and  the 
current  is  nowhere  so  rapid  as  to  interfere  with  the  use  of 
small  boats  as  a  convenient  means  of  travel. 

The  main  line  (J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system)  from  Jacksonville 


82 


PUTNAM  COUNTY— SAINT  JOHN'S  COUNTY. 


DiBt.  fr. 
San  ford- 


and  the  north  crosses  the  county  nearly  north  and  south. 
Stations  are  as  follows  : 

41  . .  .West  Tocoi  {Clay  Co.) . .  .84 

46  ...Bostvvick 78    N 

49 Teiisdale 75     a 

52. . .  .Sauble 72 

55 I'alatka  Junction 69 

56....Palatka  i 68 

58....Lundy 66 

Dist.  fr.  60 Peniel 64 

Jack-  63 . . .  .Buffalo  Bluff 61 

Bonville.  64 Satsuma 60 

67....8isco 57 

70 Pomona 54 

72....0omo 52 

75 Huntington 49 

V     78 Denver 40 

S     82.... Hammond  (Volitsm  Co.) 42 

84.... Seville  (Volusia  Co.) 41 

'  Connects  St.  Aug.  &  Halifax  River  Ry.  (p.  84) ;  St.  John's  &  Halifax  River 
Ry.  (p.  85) ;  and  F.  S.  Ry.  to  Gainesville  (see  below). 
For  continuation  of  main  line  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system,  see  pp.  16  and  97. 

The  main  line  Florida  Southern  Railway  runs  east  from 
Palatka.  The  stations  within  the  county  and  just  beyond 
its  western  line  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Palatka. 


0. . .  .Palatka  • 47 

5 Francis 42 

12  . .  .HoUister 35 

15.   .  .Manville 32 

17  . .  .luterlachen 30 

19.   ..Keuka 28 

21...  Clark's  Mill 26 

23 Johnson 24 

25. . .  .Cooper's  Mill 22 

26 Cone's  Crossing 21 

29  . .  Colgrove 18 


Dist.  fr. 
Gainesville. 


•  Connects  St.  Augustine  &  Halifax  River  divisions  (see  p.  84) ;  and  with 
main  line  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.,  north  to  Jacksonville,  and  south  to  Tampa  and  Pnnta 
Gorda  (see  above). 


Saint  John's  County. 

Area,  1,000  sq.  m.— Lat.  29"  22'  to  30°  13'  N.— Long.  81°  5'  to  81°  40'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  8,677.— Pop.  (1880),  4,535.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $2,250,- 
8T0. — County  seat,  St.  Augustine.    See  p.  133. 

St.  John's  County  may  almost  be  termed  a  peninsula,  lying 
as  it  does  between  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  east  and  the 
St.  John's  River  on  the  west.  Along  the  river  there  are  valu- 
able lands  under  successful  cultivation  at  many  points  for 
oranges,  pears,  sugar-cane,  vegetables,  and  the  like.  A  short 
distance  back  from  the  river  the  fiat  woods  appear,  succeeded 


.  JOHNS  GO. 

SCALE  OF  MILES 


84 


SAINT  JOHN'S  COUNTY. 


by  belts  of  rich  hammock,  which  in  turn  give  way  to  palmetto 
scrub  that  extends  to  the  sea-coast.  A  few  small  streams, 
tributary  to  the  St.  Johns,  water  the  rolling  lands  along  the 
river,  and  others  find  their  way  into  Matanzas  Inlet,  Halifax 
Eiver,  and  North  River  on  the  coast.  Much  of  the  land  is, 
and  probably  must  remain,  worthless,  but,  thanks  to  its 
climate,  the  county  is  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  the 
State,  and  attracts  more  tourists  than  any  other  section. 
This  is  due  to  the  existence  of  St.  Augustine,  where  nearly 
three  centuries  ago  Europeans  first  learned  the  salubrity  of 
the  Floridian  climate.  The  history  of  St.  Augustine  is  that 
of  St.  John's  County,  and  will  be  found  in  the  account  of 
that  city. 

Fishing  is  good  all  along  the  creeks,  inlets,  rivers,  and 
lagoons,  and  game  is  to  be  found  by  persevering  huntsmen, 
thanks  to  the  almost  impenetrable  "  scrub  "  in  which  deer 
and  turkeys  still  find  shelter.  It  is  wellnigh  useless,  how- 
ever, to  hunt  without  guides  and  dogs,  and  even  then  hunt- 
ing is  no  child's  play. 

The  harbor  of  St.  Augustine,  with  its  connecting  inlets,  is 
a  favorite  resort  for  yachtsmen,  and  a  short  day's  mn  to  the 
northward  ojiens  the  extensive  inland  cruising  grounds  of 
the  St.  John's  Eiver  and  its  numerous  lakes. 

The  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  &  Halifax  Eiver  Eailway 
(J.,  T,  &  K.  W.  system),  St.  Augustine  to  Palatka,  has 
stations  as  follows : 


O....St.  AnsustineJ  31 

0. . .  .New  St.  Augustine 30     NE 

4....TocoiJc 26       a 

8. . . .  Smith's 22 

10. . . .  Middleton 20 

Dist.  fr.  12 Armstrong 18 

St.Augus-  14. ...Holy  Branch 16 

tine.  16.... Quid's 14 

18. . .  Merrifleld 12 

20. . .  .Bueua  Vista 10 

V       21. . .  .Pattersonville 9 

SW    25. . .  .East  Palatka  Je 6 

31.... Palatka- 0 


Dist.  fr. 
Palatka. 


1  Connects  vith  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  to  Jacksonville  (see  p.  85). 
^  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  to  Indian  River.    Tampa  and  Pmita 
Gorda  (see  p.  82). 


The  Jacksonville,  St.  Augustine  tt  Halifax  Eiver  liailwav 


SAINT  JOHN'S  COUNTY— SUMTER  COUNTY. 


85 


(J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system)  is  the  most  direct  route  between  the 
two  cities.     Stations  auJ  distances  follow  : 

0 Jacksonville  ' 37 

1.... South  Jacksonville S6    NW 

3 . . . .  Phillips 34       A 

5 Bowden 32 

9 Summervllle 23 

10. . .  .Nesbit 2T 

Dist.fr.  11. ...Eaton 26  D'st.  fr. 

Jack-  14 Sweetwater 23  St.  Augns- 

sonville.  16 Bayard 21  tine. 

18 Register 19 

19. . .  .Clarkville IS 

21. . .  .Durbin 16 

V      28 Sampson 9 

SE     32. . .  .Magnolia  Grove 5 

37 St.  Augustine- 0 

>  For  railway  and  steamboat  connections  see  p.  103. 
*  Connects  with  line  to  Palatka,  see  p.  84, 


Sumter  County. 

Area,  625  sq.  m.— Lat.  28°  15'  to  28»  57'  N.— Long.  81°  55'  to  82°  18'  W.— 
Population  (1890),  5,350.— Pop.  (1880),  4,686.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,719,- 
018. — County  seat,  SumtervUle. 

Sumter  County  is  topographically  part  and  parcel  of  the 
central  lake  region,  and  of  the  large  orange-growing  counties 
of  Lake,  Marion,  Citrus,  Hernando,  and  Pasco.  It  was  orig- 
inally organized  as  a  county  in  1851,  including  parts  of  the 
present  territory  covered  by  Orange  and  Polk  Counties. 
Changes  to  the  present  boundaries  were  made  successively 
in  1871,  72,  '79,  and  '87.  The  Withlacoochee  Eiver,  which 
forms  the  major  part  of  the  western  boundary,  is  navigable 
to  Pembertou  Ferry.  In  the  winter  of  1888-89,  during  a 
l^eriod  of  exceptionally  high  water,  a  boat  crossed  from  the 
vicinity  of  Lake  Panasoflfkee  and  the  Withlacoochee  Eiver, 
thus  demonstrating  the  possibility  of  crossing  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Gulf.  The  shooting  and  fishing  are  excellent 
over  a  large  portion  of  the  county.  Near  Dragem  Junction 
is  the  scene  of  the  massacre  of  Major  Dade  and  his  com- 
mand (see  p.  305),  which  was  practically  the  beginning  of 
the  long  Seminole  war,  1835  to  1842,  which  nearly  exter- 
minated the  then  existing  settlements  in  South  Florida. 

The  Florida  Southern  Railway  (J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system)  en- 


SUMTER   COUNTY. 


ters  the  coiintv  at  a  i^oint  about  twelve  miles  soiithwest  from 
Leesburg.  The  stations  within  the  county  and  near  its  lim- 
its are  : 


I       115 Cason's  (Lake  Co.) 31  -^jp, 

120.... Centre  HiU 26  ^.  -n,  ^  f, 

Dist.fr.               125  ...Webster  21  '^  ^^zll 

Falatka.       J,      129 . . . . Dragem  Jc.  i IT  1          J,,r<> 

Q^P-    135....Pemberton2 11  ^"^*'- 

°  "     146 ... .  Brooksville  (Hernando  Co.) 0  ' 


1  Crosses  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  below). 

"  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  for  Punta  Gorda  and  Tampa. 

The  southern  division  F.  C.  &  P.  enters  the  county  from 
Ocala,  Marion  County,  on  the  north.  Stations  adjacent  to 
and  within  the  county  are  as  follows  : 


Dist.  fr. 
Ocala. 


N 


16 Summerfleld  (Marion  Co.) 21 

21. ...Oxford 16     . 

26....Wildwood  1 11     '^ 

29 Orange  Home 8 

31. ...Bamboo 6 

35 Montclair 2 

37 ... .  Leesbm-g2  (Lake  Co.) 0      ' 


Dist.  fr. 
Leesburg. 


J  Connects  with  Tampa  branch  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  below). 
2  Connects  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  sj'stem  (see  p.  4T). 

The  Tampa  division  F.  C.  &  P.  connects  with  the  forego- 
ing at  Wildwood.     The  stations  are  : 

O....Wildwood' 61 

5 Coleman 56    N 

8 Panasoffkee 53     a 

DiBt.fr.  9..  . Sumterville  Jc 52  Dist.  fr. 

Wfldwood.  14....Bn8hnell 4T  PlantCity. 

V    18.... St.  Catharine* 43 

S     22 . . .  .Withlacoochee 39 

28 Lacoochee  (Hernando  Co.) 33 

'  Connects  with  F.  C.  &  P.  to  Leesburg  (see  above). 
2  Crosses  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  above). 

The  Orange  Belt  Eailway  crosses  the  southern  part  of  the 
county.     The  stations  near  and  within  the  county  line  are  : 

I     51 Mascotte  (La/cfl  Co.) 96  p 

56 . .    Cedar  Hammock 91  ■7 

Dist.fr.  60....TaiTytown 87  y»    Dist.  fr.  St. 

Monroe,    w     64 Wyoming 83  Petersburg. 

Xr    70..   .Lacoochee'  (flernarido  Co.) 77 

"     71 Macon"-' (//ernando  Co.) 76  ' 


>  Crosses  Tampa  Branch  F.  C.  &  P.  (see  p.  35). 
'  Crosses  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (see  p.  35). 


88 


SANTA  ROSA  COUNTY. 


Santa  Rosa  County. 

Area,  1,200  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  19'  to  30°  58'  N.— Long.  80"  38'  to  87°  20^  W.— 
Populiition  (1890),  7,948.— Pop.  (1880),  6,645.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,282- 
800. —County  neat,  Milton. 

Santa  Eosa  County,  next  to  the  narrow  tenitory  of  Es- 
cambia, is  the  westernmost  county  in  Florida,  and  was  one 
of  the  original  civic  divisions  of  the  State. 


It  takes  its  name  from  the  fine  bay  discovered  by  Tristan 
de  Luna  in  1559.  Santa  Kosa  has  four  navigable  rivers, 
namely,  the  Escambia,  forming  the  -western  boundary,  and 
navigable  into  Alabama  ;  the  Blackwater,  draining  the  north- 
ern half  of  the  county,  a  rich  lumber  region,  sparsely  settled, 


SANTA  ROSA  COUNTY— SUWANNEE  COUNTY.   S9 

and  affording  a  fine  cattle  range  ;  the  Yellow  River,  crossing 
the  county  diagonally,  and  forming  jiarfc  of  its  eastern 
boundary,  and  East  Bay  Eiver,  parallel  to  Santa  Rosa  Sound, 
a  short  distance  inland.  The  lumber  and  live-stock  interests 
are  the  principal  industries,  sheep  raising  having  of  late 
years  taken  a  foremost  place. 

Tlie  subsoil  is  clay  with  a  sandy  surface,  and  rice,  corn, 
sweet  potatoes,  oats,  Leconte  pears,  peaches,  grapes,  and 
figs  are  grown  successfully.  The  pecan  tree  flourishes  and 
makes  a  profitable  crop  when  once  the  trees  are  in  bearing. 
The  nuts  are  quite  equal  to  those  grown  in  Texas.  The 
finest  and  oldest  grove  in  the  State  is  in  the  town  of  Black- 
water. 

The  Pensacola  &  Atlantic  division  of  the  Louisville  & 
Nashville  Railroad  crosses  the  county  on  a  line  running 
nearly  northeast  and  southwest.  The  stations  near  and 
within  the  county  are  : 


Dist.  fr. 
River  Jc. 


V 
SW 


110  ... Crestview  (Walton  Co.) 50     .^t, 

114....Chaffin'8 46     ■". 

122.... Holt's  38       -^ 

131  . .  .Good  Range 29 

141. ...Milton 19 

144 Arcadia 16 

152 Escambia  {Escambia  Co.) 8 


Dist.  fr. 
Pensacola. 


For  continuation  southwest  to  Pensacola  see  p.  29 ;  east,  to  River  Junction 
see  p.  101. 


Suwannee  County. 

Area,  750  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  52'  to  30°  24'  N.— Long.  82°  46'  to  83°  18'  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  10,505.— Pop.  (1880),  7,161.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,579,988.— 
County  seat.  Live  Oalv. 

The  name  Suwannee  is  of  Seminole  or  Muskhogee  origin, 
meaning  "deep  water,"  and  the  fine  stream  that  bears  it  and 
gives  its  name  to  the  county  forms  the  boundary  on  three 
sides.  It  is  navigable  for  river  steamboats  as  far  as  White 
Springs  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  with  its 
numerous  tributaries  affords  many  desirable  mill  sites.  The 
river  gives  easy  access  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  loca- 
tion of  the  county  within  reach  of  the  sea-breezes  from  both 
directions  renders  its  climate  exceedingly  equable.  The 
temperature  averages  about  50°  in  the  winter  months,  and  in 


90 


SUWANNEE  COUNTY. 


Stammer  rarely  rises  higher  than  90°,  the  average  being  80° 
to  85°. 

The  soil  is  a  sandy  loam  with  a  substratum  of  clay,  fertile 
and  easy  of  cultivation.     Large  tracts  of  good  land  are  still 


open  to  settlement  imder  the  State  and  United  States  laws, 
and  while  considerable  portions  are  held  by  capitalists,  the 
prices  of  land  to  actual  settlers  are  by  no  means  exorbitant. 
The  lumber  within  reach  of  water  or  railway  transporta- 
tion is  abundant,  and  of  excellent  quality.     Hammock  lands 


SUWANNEE  COUNTY.  91 

border  the  water-courses  bearing  the  finest  varieties  of  hard- 
wood, as  ash,  hickory,  live  oak,  red  oak,  white  oak,  cherry, 
red  bay,  beach,  majjle,  and  magnolia,  while  pitch  pine  and 
yellow  pine  cover  thousands  of  acres  of  rolling  country. 

Sea  Island  cotton  was  largely  cultivated  by  slave  labor  be- 
fore the  Civil  War,  and  now,  after  a  lapse  of  many  years,  is 
resuming  its  importance.  Some  of  the  leading  Northern  and 
European  cotton  factors  have  permanent  warehouses  at  Live 
Oak  and  elsewhere.  The  total  annual  shipment  of  cotton, 
accoi'ding  to  the  latest  rejjort  available,  is  about  three  thou- 
sand bales.  Oranges  can  be  successfully  cultivated,  but  not 
with  the  certainty  that  obtains  in  South  Florida,  and  tobacco 
is  becoming  an  important  and  profitable  crop.  Extensive 
plantations  of  the  Leconte  pear  are  in  bearing,  strawberries 
are  extremely  prolific,  and  all  the  small  fruits  are  in  a 
marketable  condition  a  month  ahead  of  the  same  kinds  in 
Delaware,  and  two  weeks  in  advance  of  Georgia. 

The  western  division  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  crosses  the  north- 
ern i^art  of  the  county  on  a  line  running  northwest  and 
southeast.     The  stations  within  the  county  are  : 

,  71 — Welbom 94  o^, 

Dist.  fr.  76... Houston 89  °^       Dist.fr. 

Jackson-       J,  82. ..  .Live  Oak" 83  A  Talla- 

viUe.        T^Vrr  92....BuckiJc.=' 73 

■^"  95....EIlaviile 70  ' 

'  Crosses  Savannah,  Florida  &  Western  Railway  (see  below). 
"  Connects  with  Suwamiee  River  Railroad  (see  below). 

For  continuation  westward  see  p.  5S  ;  eastward,  p.  18. 


The  Gainesville  division  S.,  F.  &  W.  Ed.  (Savannah,  Gra., 
to  Gaines\dlle,  249  miles,  9^  hours).  Stations  within  and  near 
the  county  are : 


Dist.  fr. 

Savannah, 

Ga. 


168 Marion  (Hamilton  Co.) 81 

171 Suwannee 77 

179 .. .  .Live  Oak' 70 

184  ...Padlock 65 

188. .. .  Pine  Mount 61 

190....McAlpin 59 

196.   ..O'Brien  52 

203  . .  New  Branford^ 46 

216  . .  .Lake  City  Jc.^  (Columbia  Co.). .  .33 


•  Crosses  western  division  P.  C.  &  P.  (see  above). 
"  Connects  Suwannee  River  steamers. 
'  Connects  Lake  City  division. 


Dist.  fr. 
GaineBvillei 


^'2  SUWANNEE  COUNTY— TAYLOll  COUNTY. 

Tlie  Suwannee  Iliver  Kailway  runs  from  Hudson-on-tlie- 
Suwanuee  to  Bucki  Junction.  It  is  about  twelve  miles  long, 
with  no  regular  stations  between  termini.  "When  the  Su- 
wannee Eiver  is  low  tliis  road  is  convenient  for  steamboat 
connections  at  New  Branford. 


Taylor  County. 

Area,  1.080  sq.  m.— Lat.  29°  40'  to  30°  15'  N.— Long.  S3°  22'  to  84"  W.— Popu- 
lation (1890),  2,122.— Pop.  (1880),  2,2T9.— Asssessed  valuation  (1888),  $270,094.— 
County  seat.  Perry. 

Taylor  County  was  organized  in  1851,  and  named  after 
General  Zachary  Taylor,  the  poi^ular  hero  of  the  war  with 
Mexico,  1847-48,  and  subsequently  President  of  the  United 
States. 

The  county  has  about  forty  miles  of  coast  on  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  with  shallow  harbors  at  the  mouths  of  the  Aucilla, 
FenhoUoway,  and  Econfena  Elvers,  and  in  Deadman's  Bay, 
available  only  for  small  boats.  There  are  no  lighthouses  on 
this  coast.  The  surface  is  generally  level,  intersected  with 
plentiful  streams,  some  of  which  afford  excellent  mill  sites, 
and  in  all  of  which  the  different  varieties  of  fish  are  found  in 
plenty.  The  piney  woods  are  broken  by  several  large  ham- 
mocks, the  home  of  bear,  deer,  panthers,  wild-cats,  and  tur- 
keys. The  game  has  not  yet  been  hunted  out  in  this  region, 
and  good  sport  may  be  had  with  the  assistance  of  competent 
guides.  Along  the  Gulf  the  pine  lands  are  veiy  poor,  but  in 
the  interior  they  are  of  good  quality,  the  soil  varying  from 
gray  to  dark  in  color,  and  about  two  feet  deep.  The  ham- 
mocks are  a  dark  sandy  loam,  unsurpassed  in  fertility. 

As  a  cattle  range  the  county  has  always  afforded  excellent 
facilities,  owing  to  the  abundant  growth  of  native  grasses. 

Tlie  climate  is  that  of  the  Gulf  coast  of  Florida,  and  is 
healthy  when  ordinary  judgment  is  used.  Along  both  banks 
of  the  Econfena  River  there  is  a  healthy  belt  ten  miles  wide, 
while  along  the  FenhoUoway  it  is  sickly,  the  reason  being 
that  in  the  former  case  the  water  is  pure,  while  in  the  latter 
case  it  is  strongly  impregnated  with  lime.    In  the  lime-water 


TAYLOR  COUNTY. 


93 


regions  cisterns  for  rain-water  are  used  by  prudent  residents. 
Tlie  Econfeua  Biver  rises  in  Washington  County,  soiitlieast 
from  Oak  Hill.     Its  course  is  thirty  miles  from  its  source  to 


St.  Andrew's  Bay,  but  this  is  interrupted  by  Natural  Bridge, 
fifteen  miles  from  the  mouth,  to  which  i:)oint  the  stream  is 
navigable.  Below  the  bridge  for  several  miles  the  voyager 
is  delighted  by  the  frequent  occiirrence  of  remarkable  springs 
along  the  west  bank.     The  lands  along  this  river  are  of  fine 


94  TAYLOR  COUNTY— VOLUSIA  COUNTY. 

quality  and  the  locality  lias  a  high  reputation  for  liealthful- 
ness.  Bear  Creek,  a  navigable  tributary,  enters  the  Econfena 
from  the  eastward,  about  four  miles  from  salt  water.  Besides 
the  springs  referred  to  are  Hampton  Spring  on  Rocky  Creek 
and  a  chalybeate  spring  on  Blue  Creek. 

Perry,  the  county  seat,  may  be  best  reached  from  Madison. 
Madison  County,  thirty-one  miles  by  mail  route. 


Tolusia  County. 

Area,  1,340  sq.  m.— Lat.  28°  35'  to  29°  25'  N.— Long.  81°  35'  to  81"  W  W — 
I'opiilation  (1890),  8,463.— Pop.  (1880),  3,294.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $3,994,- 
572.— County  seat,  DeLand. 

Volusia,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  phenomenal  increase 
in  its  population,  is,  to  Northern  settlers,  one  of  the  most 
attractive  counties  of  South  Florida.  This  is  largely  ac- 
counted for  from  its  easy  access  to  Northern  markets,  its  ad- 
vantages of  soil  and  climate  for  invalids,  and  the  facilities 
that  it  offers  to  tourists  and  sportsmen. 

The  county  was  organized  under  territorial  government  in 
1825,  and  its  somewhat  unfortunate  early  name  was  Mosquito 
County,  a  title  which  was  naturally  repudiated  as  soon  as 
possible,  and  Orange  was  adopted.  It  originally  included 
Orange  and  Brevard  Counties.  In  1854  Volusia  and  part  of 
Brevard  were  set  oflf,  and  in  1878  the  present  boundaries 
were  established.  Lying  between  the  St.  Jo^m's  Eiver  on  the 
west,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  east,  Volusia  County  has 
navigable  waters  on  both  sides,  besides  which  railroads  cross 
it  in  four  directions,  affording  ready  transportation  for  the 
enormous  orange  crop.  The  country  bordering  the  principal 
railroads  and  watercourses,  indeed,  is  almost  a  continuous 
orange  grove,  and  the  planters  claim  that  no  part  of  the  State 
excels  it  for  raising  this  favorite  crop.  The  land  is  largely 
high  pine  and  hammock,  and  very  ju-oductive  for  all  kinds  of 
crops. 

Along  the  ocean  front  are  found  the  narrow  beaches, 
.sometimes,  as  at  Daytona  and  Ormond,  rising  into  verit- 
able hammocks.  Within  these,  to  the  westward,  are  the 
coastwise  rivers,  the  Halifax  and  the  Hillsborough.     West- 


VOLUSIA  COUNTY. 


95 


•ward  again  is  a  wide  belt  of  the  richest  hammock,  two  or 
three  miles  wide,  and  containing  evidences  of  ancient  culti- 


vation in  the  shape  of  drains,  canals,  and  mined  houses,  con- 
cerning some  of  which  all  records  have  been  lost,  while  the 


06  VOLUSIA  COUNTY. 

histoiy  of  the  others,  as  the  Turnbull  tract  at  New  Smyrna, 
is  tolerably  well  known.  Beyond  the  hammocks  is  a  belt  of 
prairie,  broken  by  islands  of  cabbage-palm  and  pine,  rising 
first  into  "flat-woods,"  and  again  into  the  rolling  pine-lands 
that  extend  nearly  to  the  St.  John's  Kiver  at  the  western 
boundary. 

The  first  settlement  within  the  present  limits  of  the  county 
was  made  during  the  British  occupancy  by  Dr.  Turnbull,  a 
Scotch  gentleman  of  wealth,  who,  having  obtained  a  large 
conditional  grant  of  hammock  land  in  the  vicinity  of 
New  Smyrna,  enlisted  a  colony  of  some  fifteen  hundred 
Greeks,  Italians,  and  Minorcaus,  and  brought  them  over 
with  the  intention  of  organizing  an  agricultural  community. 
Dissensions  followed,  and  the  colony  was  broken  up,  but  not 
before  a  large  amount  of  work  had  been  accomplished  (see 
Eoute  63). 

In  1803  a  colony  of  nearly  twenty  families  from  St.  Augus- 
tine resettled  the  abandoned  lands  of  the  Turnbull  tract,  es- 
tablishing, in  spite  of  hostile  Indians,  quite  a  prosperous  set- 
tlement. In  1835,  however,  the  Seminole  war  broke  out  in 
earnest,  and  the  inhabitants  were  obliged  to  escape  across 
the  river  and  see  their  houses  and  plantations  burned  behind 
them.  Until  1842  the  county  was  abandoned  by  whites,  and 
even  after  that  time  Indian  alarms  were  so  frequent  that,  in 
1860,  there  were  barely  twenty-five  families  within  the  pres- 
ent boundaries.  Then  followed  the  Civil  War,  when  New 
Smyrna  enjoyed  a  short  lived  and  costly  importance  as  an 
entrepot  for  blockade-runners,  but  was  presently  shelled  by 
United  States  gunboats,  and  nearly  destroyed. 

An  expedition  from  Jacksonville  was  sent  up  the  St.  John's 
Eiver,  and  is  said  to  have  captured  every  man  in  the  county. 
Two  of  the  prisoners  were  released,  however,  as  too  small  of 
stature  for  military  duty,  and  for  several  months  these  two 
were  the  only  white  men  in  the  county.  At  the  first  election 
after  the  return  of  peace  there  were  twenty-one  registered 
voters,  and  every  one  of  them  was  present  to  organize  the 
first  court.  Shortly  after  this  the  movement  began  which 
has  so  wonderfully  increased  the  population  of  the  county, 
and  developed  its  resources. 


VOLUSIA   COUNTY. 


97 


The  main  line  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  sys- 
tem to  Saudford  (connecting  for  PuntaGorda  and  Port  Tampa) 
and  Titusville  follows  a  generally  north  and  south  direction 
near  the  St.  John's  Eiver.  The  stations  within  and  near  the 
county  are  : 


Dist. 
ft".  Jackson- 
ville. 


77 Denver  (Putnam  Co.) S2 

81 Hammond 78 

84.... Seville 75 

.  Bakersburg 71 

.Pierson  ..'. 70 

.Eklrld^e 67 

Barbervil  e   65 

.Deep  CreeSi 62 


89 


99 Sprmp;  Garden 60 

103  .. .  Glenwood    57 

103....mcrh:aud  Park 55 

107....DeLaudJc.i 52 

108. .  .Beresford 51 

113....  Orange  c:tyJc.  2 47 

118  ..  .Ente.  prise  Jc 41 

12D....Osteeu 30 

131.... Cow  Creek    25 

138. . .  Maytown 18 

147 Aurantia  (Brevard  Co.) 9 

151 Mims  (Brevard  Co.) 5 

153 La  Grange  (Brevard  Co.) 4 

157 .. .  .Titusville  (Brevard  Co.) 0 


Dist. 
fr.  Titus- 
ville. 


'  At  DeLand  Junction  is  a  spur  three  miles  eastward  to  DcLand,  and  two  miles 
westward  to  DeLand  Lauding. 

2  At  Orange  City  Junction  Is  the  crossing  of  the  Atlantic  &  Western  Sailroad 
(see  below). 


Atlantic  &  Western  Railroad  from  Blue  Springs  on  the  St. 
John's  River  to  New  Smyrna  on  the  sea-coast,  crossing  the 
county  from  east  to  west : 

0  . .  .Blue  Springs 29 

O?^:.. Orange  City  Jc 28>4    W 

■nut   f_  3  ...Orange  City 26        a  Dist. 

Smyrna  8J^ ..  Lake  Helen 19>^      j  fr.  Blue 

bmyma.      ^     22  .     Waverly 6  Springs. 

E     25>^ . .  Glencoe Z}4 

29 New  Smyrna 0 

At  Orange  City  Junction  is  the  crossing  of  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  (see  above). 


98 


WAKULLA   COUNTY. 


Wakulla  County. 

Area,  580  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  to  SO"  20'  N.— Long.  84°  5'  to  34°  4.5'  W.— Popula- 
tion (1890),  3,109.— Pop.  (1880),  2,723.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $362,281.— 
Covaity  seat,  C'rawfordvillc. 

This  county  is  named  after  the  famous  spring  near  the 
Gulf  coast.  The  Seminole  word  Wakulla  means  mystery, 
and  no  one  who  visits  the  spring  will  question  the  fitness  of 
the  title  (see  i?.  348).  A  further  mystery,  peculiar  to  this 
region,   is  the  alleged    "Wakulla   Volcano,"   a   column   of 


smoke  or  vapor  that  perpetually  rises  above  the  trees  at  a 
certain  point  to  which  no  man  has  as  yet  penetrated  (see  p. 
347).  The  surface  is  mainly  level  and  sandy,  with  a  clay 
subsoil  and  limestone  rock,  often  rich  in  phosphates,  not  far 
below  the  surface  everywhere.  Heavily  timbered  hard-wood 
hammocks  cover  a  large  portion  of  the  county,  and  game  is 
abundant.  The  Oeklockony  River,  a  considerable  stream, 
forms  the  western  boundary,  and  its  tributaries  water  the 
Avestern  part  of  the  county.  In  the  eastern  part  are  the  St. 
Mark's  and  Wakulla  Rivers,  w  Inch  unite,  forming  the  Apala- 
chee  River,  five  miles  from  the  Gulf.  The  former  has  its 
source  in  the  famous  spring  just  referred  to.  The  latter 
rises  in  a  small  pond,   nineteen  miles  northeast  from  the 


WAKULLA  COUNTY.  99 

junction  of  the  streams.  Boats  drawing  four  feet  of  water 
can  ascend  to  the  sources  of  both  these  streams.  It  is  sup- 
posed from  topogi-aphical  surveys  that  the  St.  Mark's  derives 
its  supply  from  Lake  Micosukee  and  its  tributaries  (see 
p.  52).  Numerous  sinks  occur  along  a  certain  connecting 
line,  and  sometimes  the  river  itself  emerges  for  a  time  above 
ground. 

The  Ocklockony  River,  forming  the  western  boundary  of 
the  county,  rises  in  Georgia,  and  running  generally  south, 
falls  into  Ocklockony  Bay,  twenty  miles  west  of  St.  Mark's. 
It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  about  fifty  miles.  Some 
twenty  miles  from  its  mouth  it  divides.  New  River  carrying 
a  portion  of  its  waters  to  the  bay.  Its  principal  tributaries 
are  Tugalo,  Little  River,  Robinson's  Creek,  and  Rocky  Com- 
fort. 

The  Gulf  coast  line  is  about  twenty-five  miles  in  extent, 
not  attempting  to  trace  its  various  indentations.  It  forms  an 
extensive  bight  known  as  Apalachee  Bay,  early  discovered 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  the  site  of  attempted  settlements  in 
the  sixteenth  century. 

At  the  mouth  of  St,  Mark's  River,  on  the  east  side,  is  a 
lighthouse  showing  a  fixed  w'hite  light  of  the  fourth  order, 
visible  fifteen  miles  at  sea.  The  tower  is  white,  eighty-three 
feet  in  total  height  above  the  water.  The  channel  is  well 
buoyed,  and  admits  vessels  drawing  seven  feet  at  low  tide. 

The  principal  industries  are  turpentine-making,  stock-rais- 
ing, bee-culture,  hunting,  and  fishing.  There  are  many 
natural  curiosities  as  sinks,  springs,  and  the  like  scattered 
through  the  county.  The  supply  of  drinking-water  is  mainly 
derived  from  cisterns,  as  the  natural  flow  is  strongly  im- 
l>reguated  with  lime. 

The  St.  Mark's  Railroad  from  Tallahassee,  in  Leon  County, 
to  St.  Mark's,  is  twenty-one  miles  long ;  through  time,  one 
hour  and  forty-five  minutes. 

I       0 Tallahassee 21  t,j 

Dist.fr.         '       4....Belair IT  .         Dist.fr. 

Tallahassee,     o     16 ....  Wakulla 5  '^      St.  Mark's. 

°    21  ...  St.  Mark's 0  ' 

For  conoections  at  Tallahassee  (sec  p.  53). 


100 


WALTON  COUNTY. 


Walton  County. 

Area,  1,360  eq.  m.— Lat.  30"  20'  to  31"  N.— Lontr.  85"  52'  to  86°  39'  W.— Popu- 
lation ( 1890),  4.811.— Pop.  (1880),  4,201.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $1,122,755. 
— Coucty  seat.  De  Funiak  Springs. 

Walton  County  i.s  bounded  on  the  north  by  Alabama,  east 
by  Holmes  and  Washington  Counties,  south  by  Choctawhat- 
chee  Bay  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  west  by  Santa  Bosa 
County.     The  laud  is  mainly  covered  with  pine  woods,  flat 


near  the  coast  but  high  and  rolling  to  the  northward.     The 
soil  is  for  the  most  part  sandy  with  clay  near  the  streams. 

The  land  is  highly  productive  and  large  shii^ments  are  an- 
nually made  of  cotton,  corn,  sugar,  vegetables,  fruits,  and  to- 
bacco. Stock-raising,  especially  sheep,  is  extensively  fol- 
lowed and  is  on  the  increase.  This  industry  was  originally 
introduced  by  a  colony  of  Scotch  Presbyterians  who  settled 
in  the  Euchee  Vallev  in  1823,  and  whose  descendants  still 


WALTON  COUNTY— WASHINGTON  COUNTY.   101 

remain  among  the  most  prospprous  and  thrifty  farmers  of 

this  region. 

The   Pensacola  &  Atlantic  division  of  the  L.  &  N.  Rd. 

crosses  the  county  from  east  to  west.     The  stations  within 

and  near  the  county  are  as  follows  : 

70 Ponce  de  Leon  (Holmes  Co.) ...  134 

I        TT....Argyle 128    E 

•ni-^  f,.  81 . . .  .De  Funiak  Springs  124    a        Y.;^t   t- 

River  Jc  94.... Mossy  Head 109  PengacSk 

Kiverdc.        y     l01....Deer)and 102      ,       -t^ensacoia. 

W    110....Crestview 93      i 

114. . .  .Milligan  {Santa  Rosa  Co.) 89 

For  continuation  of  this  route  to  Tallahassee,  etc.,  eastward,  see  p.  40 ;  west- 
ward to  Pensacola,  p.  8T. 


Washiugton  County. 

Area,  1.330  sq.  m.— Lat.  30°  to  30"  40'  N.— Long.  85"  20'  to  86"  32'  W.— Popu- 
lafon  (1890),  6,416.— Pop.  (ISSO),  4,089.— Assessed  valuation  (1888),  $759,537.— 
County  seat,  Vernon. 

Washington  was  one  of  the  original  counties  organized 
after  the  United  States  acquired  the  territory  of  Florida. 
Holmes  and  Jackson  Counties  bound  it  on  the  north,  Jackson 
and  Calhoun  on  the  east,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south, 
and  "Walton  County  on  the  west.  The  principal  exports  are 
cotton,  timber,  and  cattle.  The  soil  is  in  the  main  sandy, 
with  alluvial  bottoms  and  hammocks  along  the  rivers.  Some 
of  the  cultivated  iDortious  of  the  county  have  been  tilled  by 
whites  for  nearly  half  a  century,  and  from  time  immemorial 
by  the  aborigines  who  preceded  them.  The  sheep-growing 
industry  has  developed  here,  as  in  the  neighboring  counties, 
during  recent  years,  and  bids  fair  to  become  a  very  profitable 
branch  of  farming.  The  fine  bay  of  St.  Andrew's  and  its 
viciuity  offer  exceptional  attractions  to  sportsmen. 

The  Western  division  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula 
Eailway  closely  follows  the  northern  boundary  line.  The 
stations  are  : 

34 Cottondale  (Jackson  Co.) 171 

44....ChipIeY  161    E 

Dist   fr  \      B3....Bonifay 1.52     a        -pi-.^t    f- 

KverJc  i      61....Caryvil!e 144      ,       pi^'t^-^- 

xuverdc.        y     63. . .  .Westville  142      !       I'ensacola. 

W    71 ... ,  Ponce  de  Leon 134 

77 ... .  Argyle  (  Walton  Co.) 128 

For  continuation  of  this  route  eastward  to  Tallahassee  and  JacliBonvIlle  see 
p.  41 ;  westward  to  Pensacola  see  p.  40. 

JUNIVIR:^  ALIFORNL! 


JACKSONVILLE.  108 

10.  Jacksonville,  Duval  County  (C.H.). 

Population  (1S90),  17,100.— Lat.  30°  24'  N.— Long.  81°  40'  W. 

Hotels. — (Rates  are  given  by  the  day  unless  otherwise  stated.  Where  rates 
are  omitted  no  reply  to  inquiry  has  been  received.)  (Jarleton  Hotel,  Rooms  $1 
upward;  restaurant  « /a  cajie. — Ducal. — Kterett. — Grand  Vieir. — Glenad  i,  $3 
to  $3. 'm).— Hotel  Tojni,  $2. — Lafayette.— Oxford.— St.  James  Hotel,  $4.— 7're- 
moiit  House. —  yvindsor  Hotel.  $4  and  $5. 

Special  rates  are  usually  mide  for  permanent  guests,  or  by  the  week.  Besides 
the  hotels  there  are  ne.ir-y  100  boarding-houses,  at  $8  to  J15  a  week. 

Ratlroads,  Steamboats,  etc. 

Jacksonville,  Tampa  £  Key  West  System  (to  St.  Augustine,  Indian  River, 
Tampa,  Punta  Gorda,  etc.).    Station  foot  of  Bridge  St.  (see  p.  25). 

Fcoridt  Central  d-  Peninsula  Railway  (to  Tallahassee,  Pensacola,  Fernan- 
dina,  Cedar  Key,  Orlando,  etc.).    Station  foot  of  Hogan  St.  (see  p.  26). 

Savannah,  Florid i  &  Western  Railway  (Waycross  Short  Line).  Station  foot 
of  Bridge  St.  (see  p.  25). 

Jacksonville,  Mayport  d-  Pablo  Railway  d-  Xavigation  Co.  (to  Mayport  and 
Buruside  Beach).    Ferry  from  foot  of  Market  St.  (see  p.  26). 

Jacksonville  d  Atlantic  Riilroid  (to  Pablo  Beach).  Ferry  from  foot  of  New- 
nan  St.  (see  p.  26). 

People's  Line  (St.  John's  River  Steamers).    Astor's  wharf,  foot  of  Hogan  St. 

De  Bary  Line  (St.  John's  River  Steamers).    Foot  of  Laura  St. 

Beich  d-  Miller  Line  (to  Fort  Geo  ge,  Mayport,  etc.).  Tyson  &  Co.'s  wharf, 
foot  of  Pine  St. 

Clyde  Line  (New  York,  Charleston  &  Florida  Steamship  Co.).  Astor's  wharf, 
foot  of  Hogan  St. 

Tramways,  with  cars  at  five  minute  intervals,  run  through  Bay  St.  eastward, 
two  miles  to  the  r.ver  bank  below  Commodore's  Point,  where  there  are  a  race- 
course and  one  or  two  hotels,  mainly  for  transient  resort.  Good  view  across  and 
down  the  river.  Westward  tha  Bay  Street  line  crosses  McCoy's  Creek  into  the 
subiubs.  A  cross-town  line  runs  ou:  Pine  St.  to  the  Sub-tropical  Exposition 
grounds  and  beyond,  and  another  out  Laura  St.,  two  miles  to  the  suburbs  of 
Somerville  and  Warren  ;  ualform  fare,  5c. 

Carriage  rate  from  railroad  stations  and  steamboat  landings  to  any  part  of 
city  23c. 1  luggage  25c.  per  piece. 

Livery. — Carriases  and  saddle-horses  may  usually  be  best  engaged  through 
the  hotel  clerk;  there  are,  however,  many  excellent  "livery  stables  where,  if  de- 
sired, special  terms  may  be  made.  The  following  are  approximately  the  pre- 
vailing rates  :  Saddle-horses,  73c.  to  11.50  an  hour,  $3  a  day  ;  single  teams,  $1.50 
an  hour,  $4  a  day  ;  double  teams  with  driver,  $2  an  hour,  $5  upward  a  day. 

Boats  and  Launches  may  be  found  at  the  foot  of  Market  St. ;  row-boats.  25c. 
an  hour  ;  with  attendant,  $2  to  $5  a  day.  Special  bargains  must  be  made  for 
steam  launches  and  tha  like,  or  for  protracted  expeditfons. 

Points  of  Ikterest  in  Jacksonville. 

The  Sub-tropical  Exposition  (p.  104). 

Citv  Water-works  (p.  104). 

Post  Office,  Bay  St.,  cor.  Market. 

Banks  (hou's  9.30  a.m.  to  2  p.m.).— Bank  of  Jacksonville.— First  National 
Bank  of  Florida,  cor.  Bay  and  Ocean  Sta. — State  Bank  of  Florida.— National 
Bank,  State  of  Florida.  16  West  Bay  St. — National  Bank  of  Jacksonville. —Flor- 
ida Savings  Bank  and  Raal  Estate  Exchange. — Ambler,  Marvin  &  Stocktou. 

Cigar  Manufactories. 

Fibre  Works. 

Churches.— Ba\)tist,  Rev.  Mr.  Plummer.— Consregational,  Rev.  R.  T.  Hall, 
Hogau  St.— Episcopal,  St.  John's,  Duvil  St.,  near  Market. —Methodist,  St.  Paul's, 
Rev.  J.  B.  Anderson.  Duva!  St.,  cor.  Newnan.— Methodist.  Trinity,  Rev.  W.  S. 
Fitch,  Monroe  St.  and  City  Park.— Presbyterian  (North),  Rev.  S.  W." Paine,  Ocean 


lU4  JACKSONVILLE. 

St.— Presbyterian  (South),  Rev.  Dr.  Dodge.  Newuau  St.— Roman  Catholic. 
Father  Kceuy,  Newnan  St.  There  are  also  a  large  number  of  small  congre- 
gatious,  mainly  negroes,  scattered  through  the  city. 

The  Sub-tropical  EKposition.  The  buildings  for  this  an- 
nual exhibition  of  the  products  of  Florida  are  in  the  City 
Water-works  Park,  on  Hogau  Street,  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  from  the  river,  fifteen  minutes'  walk  from  Bay  Street 
and  the  principal  hotels.  Tramcars  run  out  Hogan  Street 
(fare  5c.).  The  exhibition  proper  is  usually  ojoen  from  early 
in  January  till  about  April  1st ;  25c.  general  admission  ;  50c. 
on  special  occasions,  gala  nights,  and  the  like.  The  build- 
ings are  open  at  all  times,  however,  as  some  objects  of  in- 
terest always  remain,  even  when  the  exhibition  is  closed. 
Among  these  are  the  tropical  plants  within  the  building,  the 
living  manatee  or  sea-cow  in  the  artificial  lake,  with  deer, 
and  sometimes  other  Floridian  animals  and  birds  in  an  en- 
closure to  the  west  of  the  main  building. 

In  connection  with  the  exhibition  are  the  Jacksonville 
Water-works.  The  supply  is  drawn  from  artesian  wells. 
The  first  of  these  was  driven  in  1883,  and  the  last  and  deep- 
est in  1889.  The  water  is  impregnated  with  sulphur,  and 
emits  a  slightly  unpleasant  odor  when  it  reaches  the  air. 
This  odor  disappears  almost  immediately,  and  the  water,  a% 
delivered  to  the  service-pii^es,  is  jjure  and  wholesome.  The 
strata  penetrated  by  the  last  and  deepest  boring,  1,020  feet, 
were  as  follows  :  Sand,  20  ft.  ;  clay  (phosphatic),  2  ft.  ;  co- 
quina,  20  ft.  ;  blue  clay.  300  ft.  ;  fossil  limestone,  2  ft.  (small 
flow  of  sulphur  water,  8  to  10  gallons  a  minute) ;  blue  clay, 
100  ft. ;  fossil  rock,  30  ft.  ;  flinty  rock,  6  ft.  ;  open  lime  rock, 
yielding  a  strong  flow  of  water,  100  ft.  ;  hard,  sandy  lime- 
stone, 350  ft.,  with  a  constantly  increa.sing  flow  of  excellent 
sulphur  water.  The  maximum  flow  is  2.333  gallons  a  min- 
ute, at  a  temperature  of  78'  on  reaching  the  surface. 

Shops.  The  principal  stores  are  on  Bay  Street,  running 
for  a  mile  near  and  parallel  to  the  river.  All  the  ordinary 
wants  of  travellers  can  be  supplied  here  at  prices  but  little 
in  advance  of  the  prevailing  rates  in  Northern  cities,  and  it 
is  often  easier  to  purchase  articles  here  than  to  bring  them 
from  a  distance. 
Drives.    Within  the  city  pleasurable  driving  is  limited  to 


JACKSONVILLE.  105 

the  wooden  pavements  which  now  cover  most  of  the  prin- 
cipal streets.  As  these  are  jjleasantly  shaded,  and  in  the  main 
bordered  with  pretty  residences,  they  are  quite  pojDular.  Out- 
side the  city  the  shell  road  is  the  favorite  drive.  Follow 
Pine  Street  to  Eighth  Street,  one  and  one-half  mile  from 
the  Court  House  ;  turn  to  the  left,  and  follow  Eighth  Street, 
which  presently  merges  in  the  Moncrief  Springs  Koad.  This 
may  be  followed  to  its  junction  with  the  shell  road,  through 
the  La  Villa  precinct,  and  so  back  to  town,  eight  miles.  The 
Old  King's  Eoad,  a  relic  of  the  days  of  English  rule,  is  still 
in  fairly  good  order  for  several  miles  out,  and  so  is  the  Pan- 
ama Eoad,  following  the  north  bank  of  the  river  toward  its 
mouth. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  river  are  charming  drives  on  ex- 
cellent shell  roads.  Cross  the  river  by  ferry  from  foot  of 
Newnan  Street  (moderate  extra  charge  for  horses  and  car- 
riages) ;  follow  direct  road  from  wharf  one-quarter  of  a  mile, 
turn  slightly  to  left,  and  cross  railway.  This  is  the  old  road 
to  St.  Augustine  and  beyond,  constructed  under  the  adnun- 
istration  of  the  British  Governor,  James  Grant  (1765),  Per- 
mission may  be  obtained  at  the  gate  lodge,  one  mile  from  fer- 
ry, to  drive  through  the  private  grounds  of  Villa  Alexandria. 
Eastward  the  road  leads  to  Devins  Point,  Arlington  Creek,  etc. 
It  is  recommended  not  to  diverge  far  from  the  shell  roads, 
as  the  sand  makes  heavy  work  for  horses.  In  the  saddle,  how- 
ever, any  of  the  wood  roads  may  be  comfortably  followed. 

History. 

The  site  of  Jacksonville  became  important  to  aboriginal 
tribes  long  before  the  advent  of  Europeans.  At  this  point 
the  St.  John's  River,  after  flowing  for  more  than  two  hun- 
dred miles  in  a  tortuous  northerly  course,  makes  a  sharp 
bend  to  the  eastward,  and  falls  into  the  ocean  twenty  miles 
below  the  city.  The  elbow  of  the  river  formed  a  natural 
rendezvous  for  tribal  expeditions  for  war  or  the  chase,  and 
the  existence  of  shell  and  burial  mounds  in  the  vicinity  at- 
tests its  frequent,  perhaps  permanent  occupation.  The  Ind- 
ians knew  it  as  "  Wacca  Pilatka,"  Cow's  Crossing,  whence  its 


IOC  JACKSON  VIM  J-:. 

early  English  name,  "  Cow's  Ford."  The  Freuoh  and  Sjian- 
iards  were  not  road  builders,  but  dui-ing  colonial  times  the 
English  built  what  was  known  as  the  King's  Road  from  St. 
Augustine  and  points  still  fartlier  south.  Cow's  Ford  was 
the  natural  crossing  point,  and  the  King's  Road  served  as 
the  highway  for  the  pioneer.  The  early  Indian  and  Span- 
ish wars  antedated  the  existence  of  Jacksonville.  During 
the  war  for  independence  on  the  part  of  the  Northern  Col- 
onies, Florida  was,  if  anything,  royalist  in  sentiment. 

In  1816,  Florida,  having  jjassed  again  from  British  to 
Spanish  rule,  one  Lewis  Z.  Hogans,  a  settler  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  married  a  Spanish  W'idow,  Dona  Maria 
Suavez  by  name,  who  held  a  grant  of  two  hundred  acres  on 
the  present  site  of  Jacksonville.  Moving  to  his  wife's  land, 
Hogans  was  ready  to  reap  the  benefit  of  the  tide  of  immi- 
gration that  began  in  a  small  way  soon  after  the  transfer  of 
the  territory  to  the  United  States  in  1819.  A  feny  was  es- 
tablished, and  an  inn  oi^ened  in  1820,  by  John  Brady,  and  by 
1822  it  became  necessary  to  plan  for  the  future.  Streets  were 
accordingly  laid  out,  and  a  town  government  was  organized. 

The  town  was  formally  incorporated  in  1833,  and  named 
after  General  Andrew  Jackson,  Governor  of  Florida  prior  to 
its  organization  as  a  territory,  and  afterward  President  of 
the  United  States.  Until  1835  the  town  grew  with  consider- 
able rapidity,  but  with  the  outbreak  of  the  Seminole  War 
(see  p. )  in  that  year  its  prosperity  was  checked.  It  be- 
came fox  the  time  a  place  of  refuge ;  blockhouses  were 
erected  and  a  garrison  was  maintained,  until  1842,  when  the 
Seminoles  were  subdued. 

With  the  return  of  peace,  the  town  resumed  its  growth. 
It  was  the  natural  port  of  entry  for  all  traffic  from  the  ocean, 
and  the  distributing  point  for  such  overland  commerce  as 
sought  an  outlet  by  sea.  In  1860  the  population  was  2,118, 
the  lumber  interest  had  assumed  important  proportions,  and, 
as  a  shipping  point  for  all  Florida  produce,  Jacksonville  was 
without  a  rival.  The  Civil  War  (1861  to  1865)  checked  this 
era  of  prosperity. 

The  Confederate  authorities  garrisoned  the  place,  but  no 
considerable  measures  were  taken  for  its  defence.    On  March 


JACKSON  VILLS.  I07 

11,  18(52,  the  United  States  gunboats,  Ottawa,  Seneca,  and 
Pembina  crossed  the  bar  at  some  risk.  The  next  day,  with 
several  lighter  draft  vessels  that  had  joined,  the  squadron 
sbeamed  np  to  Jacksonville,  which  was  jDeacefully  surren- 
dered by  the  city  authorities.  The  small  Confederate  force 
that  had  been  in  possession  retreated  to  the  interior.  The 
report  of  Lieutenant  T.  H.  Stevens,  commanding  the  United 
States  squadron,  avers  that  he  found  many  smouldering 
ruins  of  mills,  houses,  and  other  property  that  had  been 
recently  burned,  while  the  Confederates  charge  the  destruc- 
tion of  property  to  the  Federals. 

Fortifications  were  erected  and  it  was  announced  that  the 
place  would  be  permanently  held  by  United  States  forces. 
Under  this  assurance  a  meeting  of  citizens,  held  on  March 
20th,  repudiated  the  ordinance  of  secession,  and  called  for  a 
convention  to  reorganize  a  State  government  under  the  laws  of 
the  United  States.  Four  days  afterward,  March  24:th,  there 
was  another  meeting,  pursuant  to  adjournment,  at  which  a  call 
for  a  convention  was  issued  in  due  form. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  however,  there  came  an  order 
on  April  10th,  withdrawing  the  whole  force,  and  sending  it 
North  on  what  was  deemed  more  important  service.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  who  had  declared  their  allegiance  to  the 
United  States  Government  feared  to  remain,  and  were  given 
transiDortation  to  the  North. 

On  October  4th  of  the  same  year  Jacksonville  was  again 
occupied  for  a  sliort  time  by  a  Federal  force  under  General 
Brannan,  and  again  abandoned. 

An  expedition,  consisting  of  the  First  Eegiment  of  South 
Carolina  Volunteers,  Colonel  T.  W.  Higginson  commanding, 
and  a  portion  of  the  Second  South  Carolina  Volunteers,  under 
Colonel  Montgomery,  reoccupied  Jacksonville  on  March  10, 
1863.  These  troops  were  negroes,  lately  slaves,  and  were 
recruited  in  South  Carolina.  They  were  among  the  tirst  of 
the  regiments  of  colored  troops  afterward  organized  in  the 
service  of  the  United  States.  Jacksonville  was  at  this  time 
merely  a  picket  station,  a  considerable  body  of  Confederate 
troops  being  encamped  some  eight  miles  to  the  westward. 
The  purpose  of  this  expedition,  as  stated  in  the  report  of 


108  JA(;KS()NVIIiI.H. 

General  Saxton,  was  to  establish  a  base  of  operatious  in 
Florida,  and  harass  the  enemy  more  by  inviting  enlistments 
of  negroes  than  by  active  operations.  The  three  transports 
conveying  the  troops  came  up  the  river  under  convoy  of  a 
guaboat.  No  opposition  was  met  with,  the  transports  made 
fast  to  the  wharves,  and  the  men  jumped  ashore  without 
waiting  for  the  gang-plank.  There  was  much  consternation 
among-  the  few  remaining  inhabitants,  on  the  unexpected 
arrival  of  the  dreaded  negro  soldiers,  but,  as  a  general  thing, 
they  were  kept  well  in  hand  during  the  period  of  their  stay. 

On  March  23d,  the  Confederates  mounted  a  gnn  on  a  plat- 
form car,  and  ran  it  down  the  track  within  range  of  the  city. 
On  the  next  day  the  experiment  was  repeated,  and  several 
buildings  were  struck  by  shells.  On  March  26th,  a  strong 
reconnoitering  party  marched  out  along  the  railroad,  under 
command  of  Colonel  Higginson.  They  had  a  brush  with  the 
enemy,  losing  a  few  men  about  four  miles  from  the  town. 
To  the  surprise  of  all  connected  with  the  expedition,  an 
order  for  the  abandonment  of  Jacksonville  was  received,  and 
on  March  31st  the  United  States  forces  were  withdrawn. 
At  this  time  there  occurred  an  act  of  vandalism,  the  respon- 
sibility for  which  could  never  be  fixed.  A  mania  for  firing 
buildings  seemed  to  seize  upon  the  stragglers  and  camp  fol- 
lowers who  managed  to  escape  from  the  control  of  their  offi- 
cers. A  high  wind  was  blowing,  and  Jacksonville  was  almost 
wholly  destroyed.  The  fleet  steamed  away,  leaving  the  place 
in  flames.  Even  at  the  North  the  management  of  this  exj^edi- 
tion,  involving,  as  it  did,  the  needless  occupation  and  abandon- 
ment of  a  jaartly  loyal  city,  provoked  severe  condemnation. 

On  the  afternoon  of  February  7,  1864,  the  few  remaining 
inhabitants  of  Jacksonville,  not  much  more  than  one  hundred 
souls  in  all,  saw  the  not  unfamiliar  spectacle  of  a  gunboat, 
with  her  crew  at  quarters  in  front  of  the  city.  A  few  shots 
were  fired  by  the  small  detachment  of  Confederates  on  duty, 
when  comjianies  of  the  Fifty-fourth  Massachusetts  and  the 
Eighth  United  States  Colored  Troops  landed  and  took  pos- 
session. This  was  the  most  formidable  expedition  that 
landed  at  Jacksonville  during  the  war,  numbering  about  five 
thousand   men.    well   supplied   with   cavalry  and   artilleiy. 


JACKSONVILLE.  109 

Pausing  only  long  enough  to  land  their  material,  and  leaving 
an  adequate  garrison,  the  command  pushed  on  at  once  along 
the  line  of  the  railroad  toward  Lake  City,  and  met  the  crush- 
ing defeat  at  Olustee,  described  under  Route. 

The  defeated  Federals  fell  back  upon  their  fortifications 
at  Jacksonville,  and  occupied  them  until  the  close  of  the  war 
in  1865.  The  river  was  patrolled  by  gunboats,  and  no  serious 
attack  was  afterward  made  by  the  Confederates. 

Immediately  after  the  restoration  of  peace,  large  quanti- 
ties of  cotton,  which  had  been  stored  for  safety  in  the  sur- 
rounding country,  sought  Jacksonville  as  a  convenient  port 
of  shipment,  and  since  that  time  her  commercial  prosperity 
has  been  assured. 

Jacksonville  has  been  a  popular  winter  resort  for  Northern 
visitors  ever  since  it  became  readily  accessible  to  travellers. 
The  tract  on  which  it  stands  was  originally  what  is  known 
as  I'oUing  pine  land,  having  good  surface  drainage  to  the 
river  in  front,  and  to  McCoy's  and  Hogan's  Creeks  on  either 
side.  The  natural  drainage,  however,  is  mainly  through  the 
sandy  soil,  into  which  the  heaviest  rains  disappear  at  once, 
leaving  the  surface  practically  dry.  The  streets  and  public 
squares  are  well  shaded  with  live  oaks,  water  oaks,  and  otlier 
native  trees,  and  in  the  gardens  of  many  of  the  private 
houses  are  orange,  lemon,  lime,  magnolia,  and  other  semi- 
tropical  trees  and  shrubs  generally  unfamiliar  to  the  North- 
ern visitor. 

Many  of  the  orange  trees  in  the  streets  and  elsewhere  are 
of  the  bitter  variety,  cultivated  merely  for  ornament  and 
shade.  The  fruit  is  not  usually  considered  edible,  though 
it  is  used  in  the  preparation  of  certain  beverages,  preserves, 
and  the  like. 

The  uninitiated  Northern  visitor  often  learns  the  diflference 
between  sweet  and  bitter  oranges  by  practical  experience, 
for  he  is  told  to  help  himself  freely  from  any  of  the  trees 
in  the  public  streets  or  squares. 

The  climate  of  Jacksonville  is  that  of  the  North  Florida 
Atlantic  sea-coast  (see  p.  377).  The  city  is  near  enough  to 
the  ocean  to  enjoy  its  influence  in  regard  to  temperature, 
Avhile  the  force  of  the  northeasterly  gales  that  are  occasion- 


110  JACKSONVILLE. 

ally  experienced  is  sensibly  diminished  by  the  intervening 
belt  of  timber. 

As  a  centre  from  which  excursions  can  be  made,  Jackson- 
ville is  especially  convenient,  since  all  the  principal  railroad 
and  steamboat  lines  diverge  from  this  point  (see  p.  103). 

The  principal  streets  are  paved  with  the  Wyckoff  cypress 
pavement,  laid  with  cross  sections  of  cypress  logs  set  on  end, 
arranged  according  to  size,  and  having  the  interstices  filled 
with  cement.  The  streets  not  so  paved  are  deep  with  the 
native  sand  of  the  locality,  or  perhaps  rendered  a  degree 
less  impassable  by  means  of  certain  waste  material  from  the 
fibre  factories.  Wooden  sidewalks  are  almost  universal,  ex- 
cept on  the  main  business  streets. 


Excursions. 

11.  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine. 

J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.,  36  milef5  by  railway  (1  hour  40  minutes). 

The  train  passes  almost  directly  from  the  station  to  the 
fine  drawbridge  across  the  St.  John's  River.  This  bridge 
was  opened  in  1889.  It  is  of  steel  throughout,  with  a  total 
length  of  1,320  feet.     The  draw  is  320  feet  long. 

South  Jacksonville  occupies  the  point  of  land  formed  by 
the  bend  in  the  river.  It  has  800  inhabitants,  and  is  becom- 
ing an  attractive  suburb.  It  contains  many  handsome  resi- 
dences. Here  terminated  the  southern  section  of  the  Old 
King's  Road  from  St.  Augustine,  built  by  the  English  under 
the  administration  of  Governor  Grant  (1765).  The  road  is  still 
in  use.  It  may  be  seen  to  the  left  of  the  track  as  the  train 
moves  away  from  the  river.  For  a  short  time  the  line  passes 
through  a  scattered  growth  of  oaks,  magnolias,  and  other 
hard  wood  trees,  interspersed  with  occasional  orange  groves. 
Then  it  enters  the  pines,  slightly  rolling  at  first,  but  grad- 
ually falling  off  into  the  flat  woods  and  belts  of  hammock 
that  border  the  sea-coast.  For  stations  and  distances  see  p. 
85.  Between  Jacksonville  and  St.  Augustine  there  are  no 
important  towns,  but  the  soil  is  productive,  and  considerable 
shipments   of  agricultural   products    are    made.      Between 


JACKSONVILLE.  HI 

Sweetwater  and  Bayard  the  line  crosses  Arlington  Creek,  a 
tributary  of  the  St.  John's.  A  little  south  of  Sampson  it 
passes  near  St.  Mary's  pond,  shortly  after  which  the  prairies 
bordering  the  Tolomato  River,  open  to  the  south  and  east, 
and  soon  the  towers  and  orange-trees  of  St.  Augustine  are 
visible  beyond. 

Tourists  whose  time  is  limited,  may  visit  St.  Augustine 
and  return  to  Jacksonville  the  same  day,  having  about  five 
hours  for  sight-seeing. 

Engage  a  carriage  at  the  station.  Drive  to  principal  points 
of  interest  (see  p.  133).  Visit  Fort  Marion  (see  p.  157). 
Lunch,  inspect  the  Alameda  group  of  hotels,  visit  Anastasia 
Island  or  the  North  Beach  (connection  by  rail  with  the  latter 
from  Union  Station).  To  accomplish  all  this  in  five  hours  ad- 
mits of  no  loitering,  and  is  not  recommended.  So  hasty  a 
visit  should  only  be  undertaken  rather  than  lose  a  look  at 
the  ancient  city  altogether. 


12.  Jacksonville  to  Fernandina. 
By  F.  C.  &  P.  Ky.,  37  miles  (1  hour  40  minutes). 

Passing  through  the  suburbs  of  Jacksonville,  the  line  runs 
nearly  due  north,  crossing  Trout  Creek  (five  miles)  a  short 
distance  above  its  junction  with  the  St.  John's.  Three  miles 
farther  Cedar  Creek  is  passed,  and  beyond  this  is  the  rolling 
pine  forest  of  Duval  County.  Six  miles  north  of  Duval  sta- 
tion is  Nassau  River  (see  p.  131),  and  at  Hart's  Road  Junction, 
the  line  curves  to  the  eastward.  The  station  takes  its  name 
from  a  contractor  who  cut  a  military  road  through  the  then 
unbroken  forest  during  the  earljt  Indian  wars.  Six  miles 
farther  it  crosses  Amelia  River  on  a  trestle  whose  predecessor 
was  burned  during  the  Civil  War  (see  p.  129),  and  then  turns 
to  the  northward,  soon  coming  in  sight  of  Fernandina. 

Tourists  who  have  but  a  short  time  at  their  disposal  may 
drive  about  the  city  and  see  the  chief  points  of  interest  dur- 
ing the  five  or  six  hoiirs  that  intervene  before  the  return 
train.  For  description  of  Fernandina  and  vicinity  see  p.  127. 
Consult  local  time-tables. 


112  JACKSONVILLE. 


13.  Mayport  and  Bumside  Beach. 

Part  steamboat,  part  rail.  Ferry  from  foot  of  Pine  Street,  Jacksonville. 
Boat  connects  with  Mayport  &  Pablo  Railway  &  Navigation  Co.  at  both  ends 
of  line.  Twenty  miles  (1  hour  15  minutes).  Fare,  50c.  ;  round  trip,  $1.  Con- 
sult local  time-tables. 

The  river  below  Jacksonville  is  described  in  detail,  p.  117. 
The  steam  ferryboat  from  Market  Street  rounds  Commo- 
dore's Point,  and  connects  with  the  Mayi^ort  &  Pablo  Rail- 
way on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  three  miles.  Landings 
are  sometimes  made  on  signal,  at  intermediate  wharves. 
The  conspicuous  grove  at  the  mouth  of  Arlington  Creek, 
is  Empire  Point,  sometimes  called  Devins'  Point,  the  coun- 
try seat  of  General  A.  S.  Devins.  of  Boston. 

The  railway  soon  enters  the  pine  woods,  and  for  ten  miles 
there  are  only  occasional  openings.  The  line  then  crosses  a 
wide  prairie  intersected  by  Pablo  Creek  and  Mt.  Pleasant 
Ci'eek.  The  clumps  of  dark  cedars  scattered  along  the  prairie 
mark  the  site  of  shell  mounds,  the  work  of  prehistoric  In- 
dian tribes. 

Beyond  the  prairie  the  train  enters  a  fine  palm  hammock. 
Here  the  newly  arrived  visitor  from  the  North  often  makes 
his  first  acquaintance  with  the  lofty  cabbage-palm  in  its 
native  habitat.  The  hammock  extends  to  the  edge  of  the 
beach.  The  train  runs  directly  to  a  platform  connected  with 
the  Pavilion  and  hotels,  where  good  entertainment  can  be  had. 
Bumside  Beach  is  largely  frequented  by  excursionists  from 
Jacksonville  and  the  interior  (Palmetto  Hotel,  $7  to  §10  a 
week).  The  beach  is  at  present  making  slowly  out  to  sea- 
ward, so  that  there  is  quite  a  stretch  of  dry  sand  before  the 
hard,  level,  wave- washed^  bathing-beach  can  .  be  reached. 
Looking  south  one  may  see  the  large  hotel  at  Pablo  Beach, 
six  miles  (see  p.  114).  "Wheelmen  often  ride  from  Burnside 
or  Mayport  to  Pablo  Beach,  whence  there  is  a  railway  back 
to  Jacksonville.  The  beach  is  admirable  for  driving,  but 
teams  should  be  secured  by  telegraph  to  avoid  delay.  In 
arranging  for  a  walk  or  ride  between  Pablo  and  Burnside, 
the  time  of  tide  should  be  considered,  and  the  start  made 
just  after  the  tide  has  begun  to  run  ebb.     This  will  insxire  a 


JACKSONVILLE.  113 

roadway  of  ample  width  for  several  hours,  or  until  the  tide 
again  approaches  high  water  mark. 

From  Burnside  the  train  backs  to  Mavport,  two  miles, 
keeping  just  inside  the  line  of  sand  dunes,  between  which 
pretty  glimpses  of  the  ocean  are  caught  from  time  to  time. 

Mayport,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  Kiver,  is  so  called 
from  the  name  given  by  the  French,  in  1562,  "La  Riviere 
de  Mai,"  before  the  Spaniards  took  possession.  There  is  no 
large  hotel  in  the  place,  but  meals  and  rooms  can  be  had  at 
the  Burrows  House,  near  the  railroad. 

The  town  has  about  five  hundred  inhabitants.  There  is 
much  picturesque  life  to  be  seen  along  shore  among  the 
fishermen  and  men  engaged  in  constructing  mattresses  for 
the  jetties  (see  p.  117).  Toward  the  sea-beach  are  numer- 
ous summer  cottages,  belonging,  for  the  most  part,  to  city 
residents.  From  the  lighthouse  a  good  view  of  the  river 
is  obtainable. 

The  fishing  industry  at  Mavport  is  of  considerable  im- 
portance. Shad  begin  running  up  the  river  as  early  as  Jan- 
uary, and  are  taken  in  seines  in  large  quantities ;  as  many  as 
ten  thousand  are  said  to  have  been  taken  in  one  day.  There 
is  a  tradition  among  fishermen  at  the  river  mouth  that  shad 
are  never  known  to  go  to  sea  again.  At  all  events,  that  they 
are  never  taken  going  out.  Some  of  the  fishermen  believe 
that  the  shad  perish  in  the  upjier  reaches  of  the  river.  The 
shad  season  continues  till  April,  and,  when  perfectly  fresh 
from  the  water,  the  fish  compare  favorably  with  their  North- 
ern brethren. 

The  sand  composing  the  Mayjjort  dunes  is  of  a  peculiarly 
white,  fine  quality.  It  drifts  like  snow  across  the  railroad, 
and  great  mounds  move  to  and  fro,  sometimes  burying 
houses  and  trees  in  their  course.  Near  Mayport  the  Span- 
iards built  a  fort  which  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Dome- 
nique  de  Gourgues,  in  1565  (see  p.  120). 

The  conspicuous  group  of  buildings  on^  a  large  shell 
mound  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  a  mill  for  grind- 
ing shells  for  fertilizing  purposes.  It  is  possible  .sometimes 
to  purchase  Indian  relics  from  the  superintendent  or  work- 
men, but  the  supply  is  very  uncertain.     Small  boats  may  be 


114  JACKSONVILLE. 

liiied  at  Mayport  or  Pilot  Town,  with  or  without  attendants, 
to  explore  the  neighl)oriiig  shores  and  inlets. 

Fort  George  Island  and  Batten  Island  are  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  and  may  be  reached  by  row-boat  or  feriy. 

A  pleasant  excursion  from  Jacksonville  is  to  go  to  May- 
port  by  rail  as  above,  and  return  by  boat,  or  vice  versa. 
Tickets  are  available  by  either  route. 


14.  Pablo  Beach. 

Hotel,  Murray  Hall,  $2.50  to  $4  a  day.    By  Jacksonville  A:  Atlantic  Railroad, 
ferry  from  foot  of  Newnan  Street,  Jacksonville,  17  miles  Cflfty-five  minutes^). 

The  line  is  nearly  straight  to  the  eastward,  from  South  Jack- 
sonville, passing  a  few  unimportant  stations  in  the  pine  for- 
est, and  crossing  a  wide  prairie  just  before  reaching  the  coast. 
The  village  of  Pablo  is  mainly  a  seaside  resort,  with  a  fine 
hotel,  and  a  superb  bathing-beach  three  hundred  feet  wide 
at  low  tide.  The  seaward  slope  of  this  beach  is  only  eight 
inches  in  one  hundred  feet,  so  that  to  the  eye  it  is  appar- 
ently level,  and  as  the  beach  is  absolutely  free  from  irregu- 
larities, the  bathing  is  safe,  even  for  children.  Sand  dunes 
covered  with  beach-scrub  and  occasional  cabbage-palms  de- 
fine the  shore  line,  and  for  a  mile  these  are  crowned  with 
cottages,  hotels,  and  other  buildings  suited  to  a  seaside  re- 
sort, among  them  a  sanitarium  belonging  to  a  large  Catho- 
lic institution  of  Jacksonville.  The  large  hotel,  Murray  Hall, 
is  cleverly  contrived  to  give  its  guests  all  possible  advantage 
of  its  fine  situation,  the  parlor  windows  com.manding  an  out- 
look to  sea,  northward  up  the  beach  to  Mayport,  and  south- 
ward till  the  breaking  surf  and  the  gray  beach  disappear  in 
the  haze. 

Carriages  and  horses  for  riding  and  driving  on  the  beach 
can  be  had  from  a  well-furnislied  livery  stable,  at  reasonable 
rates.  Visitors  for  the  day  have  ample  time  for  an  exhilarat- 
ing drive  on  the  beach  in  either  direction,  and  it  is  possible 
even  to  drive  to  Burnside  or  Mayport,  and  return  to  town 
either  by  boat  or  rail  from  one  of  those  points. 


JACKSONVILLE.  115 


15.  Jacksonville  to  Green  Cove  Springs. 

By  J.,  T.  &  K.  \V.  Ry.  from  foot  of  Bridge  Street,  29  miles  ^1  hour  15  min- 
utes), or  by  steamboat. 

By  consulting  local  time-table.s,  connections  can  be  made, 
so  as  to  vary  the  trip,  going  by  rail  and  returning  by  boat. 
It  is  recommended  to  return  by  boat,  as  the  afternoon  hours 
are  pleasant  on  the  river.  For  description  of  this  part  of  St. 
John's  River  see  p.  184  ;  for  Green  Cove  Springs  see  p.  187. 


16.  Fort  George  Island. 

This  is  the  most  southerly  of  the  Sea  Islands,  lying  just 
north  of  the  St.  John's  Eiver.  It  is  most  directly  reached 
by  boat  down  the  St.  John's  from  Tyson  &  Co.'s  wharf,  foot 
of  Pine  Street,  Jacksonville.  If  preferred,  however,  the 
tourist  may  go  by  rail  to  May2:)ort  (see  p.  112),  and  cross 
thence  in  a  small  boat.  The  steamers  land  at  Pilot  Town,  on 
Batten  Island.  Here  are  a  number  of  cottages  and  houses, 
at  some  of  which  boai'd  and  lodging  may  be  obtained  at  ^7 
to  §10  a  week.  A  short  distance  west  of  the  steamboat  wharf 
is  a  Coquina  ruin,  of  no  great  antiquity,  but  interesting  for 
its  picturesqueness.  Others  of  the  same  kind  are  scattered 
about  the  neighborhood.  On  this  island  was  the  Spanish 
fort  gallantly  taken  by  De  Goui'gues  and  his  Indian  allies,  as 
described  on  p.  121. 

If  a  visit  to  Fort  George  is  intended,  it  is  well  to  telegraph 
in  advance  for  conveyances,  to  K.  Spencer,  Postmaster,  Fort 
George.  The  roads  on  these  islands  are  smooth,  hard,  and 
level,  winding  among  a  magnificent  hammock  growth,  with 
occasional  glimpses  of  the  sea,  or  of  extensive  island-studded 
jirairies. 

A  causeway  crosses  the  creek  to  Fort  George  Island,  one 
of  the  most  attractive  localities  on  this  part  of  the  coast.  It 
is  in  area  about  two  miles  square.  The  eastern  shore  facing 
the  ocean  has  a  broad  stretch  of  white  sand  beach,  backed 
by  a  range  of  high  dunes  generally  covered  with  scrub. 
The  heavily  wooded  central  ridge  of  the  island  rises  to  a  con- 
siderable height.     The  highest  point  is  Mount  Cornelia,  on 


116  .JACKSONVILLE. 

■which  is  an  observatory,  whence  is  a  fine  outlook  ovei'  the 
neigliboring  marshes,  rivers,  and  ocean.  The  square  top  of 
this  observatory  is  visible  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  at  sea.  The 
hill,  or  "  mount,"  on  which  it  stands  is  the  most  prominent 
natural  landmark  anywhere  on  the  Southern  coast,  and  has 
been,  since  the  days  of  the  early  exjilorers,  the  mark  by 
■which  the  entrance  to  the  St.  John's  River  was  recognized 
by  mariners. 

The  island  was  originally  settled  by  one  McQueen,  a 
Scotchman,  who  probably  named  it  after  some  locality  in  his 
native  land.  Then  it  was  purchased  by  a  wealthy  Southerner, 
Kingsley  by  name,  ■svho  made  it  an  ideal  jjlantation  of  the 
old  school,  maintaining  an  army  of  slaves,  and  largely  culti- 
vating cotton  and  other  marketable  products.  The  home- 
stead, somewhat  modernized,  still  stands,  ■with  its  negro 
quarters  and  outbuildings  near  the  northern  end  of  the  isl- 
and, with  a  fine  avenue  of  venerable  moss-draped  cedars  in 
front  and  along  the  river  side. 

After  the  Civil  War  the  family,  i^ressed  for  money,  sold  the 
whole  property  for  ^7,500,  and  shortly  afterward  four  hun- 
dred acres  were  sold  to  a  Boston  company,  Avho  erected  a 
large  house — the  Fort  George  Hotel — which  for  many  years 
was  a  favorite  resort  for  Northern  visitors.  This  was  burned 
May  1,  1889,  and  has  not  yet  been  rebuilt.  Many  handsome 
private  houses  have  been  built  at  desirable  jjoiuts  along  the 
sea  front,  and  many  wealthy  Northern  people  make  this  their 
home  during  the  winter  months. 

The  whole  island  is  intersected  with  a  charmingly  irregular 
network  of  roads,  admirable  for  riding,  driving,  or  walking, 
and  there  are  few  more  enjoyable  experiences  in  Florida  than 
an  exploration  of  these  magnificent  woods. 


JACKSONVILLE.  117 


17.  St.  John's  River. 


Called  Welaka  (chain  of  lakes)  by  the  Indians,  Rivifere  de 
Mai  by  the  French  (1562),  St.  John's  Kiver  by  the  Spanish 
(1564).  This  is  tlie  largest  stream  in  Florida.  It  rises  in 
a  vast  tract  of  uncharted  and  unnamed  lakes  and  marshes 
near  the  Atlantic  coast  in  Brevard  and  Osceola  Counties, 
about  in  latitude  28°  10'  N.,  and  flows  northward,  in  a  di- 
rection generally  parallel  to  the  coast,  but  exceedingly  tor- 
tuous when  considered  in  detail,  a  distance  of  nearly  three 
hundred  miles.  It  falls  into  the  sea  in  latitude  30°  25'  N., 
between  Fort  George  and  Batten  Islands  on  the  north,  and 
the  mainland  on  the  south.  Between  this  point  and  St. 
Augustine  Inlet,  forty-two  miles  south,  the  mainland  abuts 
upon  the  ocean,  a  condition  rarely  found  on  the  South  At- 
lantic sea-coast.  Almost  everywhere  else  a  system  of  islands 
or  peninsulas  lies  a  short  distance  off  the  coast,  affording 
sheltered  navigation  by  an  inside  route.  In  this  case  the 
St.  John's  River  goes  far  to  make  good  the  lack  of  the  usual 
channel,  for  vessels  drawing  five  feet  can  ascend  about  two 
hundred  and  thirty  miles,  where  they  are  only  about  seven 
miles  from  the  tide-water  of  Indian  River. 

The  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  one  of  the  most 
treacherous  on  the  coast,  although  the  construction  of  jetties 
was  begun  in  1880  and  still  continues.  Prior  to  this  large 
sums  were  ineffectually  expended  in  dredging.  The  orig- 
inal plans  called  for  about  one  thousand  feet  of  jetties, 
extending  in  an  easterly  direction  from  deep  water  inside 
the  bar.  It  was  thought  that  the  scour  of  the  tides  would 
thus  keep  clear  a  channel  of  ample  width,  and  with  15  feet 
depth  at  low  water.  The  jetties  had  been  carried  out, 
according  to  the  latest  official  figures,  more  than  3,000  feet 
on  the  north  side  of  the  channel,  and  about  7,000  feet  on  the 
south  side.  The  contractor  reports  20  feet  at  high  water. 
The  mean  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  at  the  bar  is  4  feet  6  inches. 

St.  John's  River  Light  is  a  red  brick  tower  with  black  lan- 
terns, 80  feet  above  sea  level,  showing  a  fixed  white  light  of 
the  third  order,  visible  15  miles  at  sea  (Lat.  30°  23'  37", 
Long.  81°  25'  27"). 


118  JACKSONVILLE. 

AiJproacliing  from  sea  and  looking  southward  along  the 
beach,  the  houses  and  wharves  of  Mayport  are  seen  on  the 
left,  with  the  works  on  shore  where  the  jetty  mattresses  are 
made  and  launched.  Farther  to  the  south  are  the  hotels  and 
cottages  of  Burnside  Beacli  and  Pablo  Beach  (see  p.  114). 
On  the  right  of  the  entrance  are  Batten  Island  and  Fort 
George  Island  (see  p.  115)  joined  by  a  causeway.  The  cluster, 
of  buildings  is  on  Batten  Island.  It  includes  the  pilot  and 
telegraph  station,  and  some  interesting  and  picturesque  old 
Coquina  ruins.  On  both  points  of  the  river  mouth  forts 
were  erected  about  1566  (see  p.  124).  After  crossing  the 
bar,  the  most  conspicuous  natural  object  is  St.  John's  Bluff, 
with  precipitous  sand-slopes  toward  the  river,  and  crowned 
with  dense  woods.  Elsewhere  on  all  sides  stretch  wide 
marshes,  beautiful  in  color  at  times,  and  dotted  here  and 
there  with  tree-covered  islands,  which  are  often  shell  mounds 
of  unknown  antiquity,  sometimes  containing  relics  of  pre- 
historic races  mucli  sought  after  by  the  antiquarian. 

Just  under  the  bluff  a  small  creek  makes  into  the  river 
from  tlie  southward.  This  is  navigable  for  row-boats  for 
several  miles,  and  at  flood  tide  affords  a  pleasant  trip,  par- 
ticularly in  the  afternoon,  when  the  shadow  of  the  blutf  falls 
across  it  from  the  westward.  About  five  miles  up  aie  ruins 
of  abandoned  rice  plantations,  with  old  sluice-gates,  and  evi- 
dences of  former  cultivation.  St.  John's  Bluff  is  believed  to 
be  the  site  of  old  Fort  Caroline,  subsequently  Fort  Mateo  (see 
p.  121).  Traces  of  ancient  fortifications  of  considerable  ex- 
tent still  exist,  mingled  with  the  half- obliterated  earthworks 
thrown  up  by  the  Confederates  during  the  Civil  War.  The 
bluff  has  been  washed  away  by  the  river,  carrying  with  it  the 
remains  of  the  old  Spanish  citadel  and  the  main  works. 
The  position  was  fortified  by  the  Confederates  in  the 
winter  of  1861-62.  On  September  17,  1S62,  a  fleet  of  six 
United  States  gunboats  crossed  the  bar,  and  for  some  hours 
vigorously  shelled  the  woods  and  batteries  about  St.  John's 
Bluflf.  They  dismounted  or  disabled  some  of  the  guns,  and 
damaged  the  breastworks.     No  landing  was  attempted. 

On  October  2, 1862,  an  expedition  consisting  of  seven  gun- 
boats from  Commodore  Dupout's  fleet,  and  escorting  a  de- 


JACKSONVILLE.  110 

tachnient  of  1,500  troops,  attacked  the  Confederate  fortifica- 
tions on  St.  John's  Blnft".  The  Confederates  soon  abandoned 
the  works,  leaving  9  guns  and  a  considerable  quantity  of 
munitions  of  war,  which  fell  into  the  hands  of  tiie  Federal 
forces. 

Beyond  St.  John's  Bluff  the  river  widens  to  three-quarters 
of  a  mile.  Pablo  Creek  and  Mount  Pleasant  Creek  find 
their  way  through  the  marshes  from  the  southward  in  the  order 
named,  and  Sister's  Creek,  Hannali  Mills  Creek,  and  Cedar 
Point  Creek  from  the  northward  in  the  order  named.  These 
are  all  navigable  for  several  miles,  but  are  not  attractive  ex- 
cept to  sportsmen,  as  they  are  for  the  most  part  bordered  by 
marshes.  A  wooded  shore,  with  a  settlement  known  as  the 
Shijn/ard,  borders  the  river  for  a  mile  above  St.  John's  Bluff. 
A  chain  of  marshy  islands  occupies  the  middle  of  the  river  for 
about  two  miles,  with  Clapboard  Creek  and  Brown's  Creek  on 
the  north  shore.  Beyond  Long  Island,  the  last  of  the  marshy 
series,  the  river  widens  into  Mill  Cove,  and  bends  to  the 
southwest.  Dame's  Point  Light  appears  about  two  miles 
distant.  This  is  an  iron  structure,  painted  red,  with  white 
upper  works,  standing  on  a  shoal  in  mid-stream,  with  deep 
water  on  both  sides.  It  shows  a  fixed  white  light,  visible 
eleven  miles.  A  mile  below  the  light  is  Yellow  Bluff  (P.  O., 
New  Berlin),  a  village  of  a  dozen  houses,  standing  among 
ti-ees  on  a  bluff  some  thirty  feet  high. 

Above  this  the  stream  widens  to  near  two  miles,  with  the 
channel  close  to  the  northern  shore,  and  trends  to  the  north- 
ward and  westward.  Dunn's  Creek  enters  from  the  eastward 
two  miles  above  Dame's  Point,  with  a  peculiar  group  of  pine 
trees  on  its  eastern  bank.  One  mile  farther  is  Drummond's 
Point,  between  Cedar  Creek  on  the  east  and  Drummond's 
Creek  on  the  west.  Here  the  river  turns  again  to  the  south- 
ward, and  St.  John's  Mills  is  seen  about  two  miles  distant. 
The  stream  that  enters  from  the  westward  is  Trout  Creek. 
At  the  south  side  of  its  month  is  Sandfly  Point,  and  opposite, 
across  the  St.  John's,  is  Reddies  Point,  marshy  near  the  water, 
but  with  high  land  and  numerous  houses  among  the  trees  at 
a  little  distance. 

The  next  stretch  of  river  is  about  four  miles,  trending 


120  JACKSONVILLE. 

southward.  Just  south  of  Redclies  Point  is  Chaseville,  a 
small  town  with  a  wharf.  Tlie  easterly  bank  is  high  and 
heavily  wooded.  Here  Pottsburg  Creek  enters  from  the 
eastward.  On  the  west  bank,  four  miles  distant,  is  Commo- 
te ore's  Point,  with  Jacksonville  showing  beyond.  On  the 
!  outh  bank  is  the  lauding  of  the  Jacksonville,  Mayport  & 
Pablo  Beach  Railway  &  Navigation  Company.  Opposite  Com- 
modore's Point  is  Arlington  Eiver,  with  the  village  of  Arling- 
ton to  the  north  of  the  mouth,  and  Empire  Point,  with  General 
A.  S.  Divens'  residence  o2)posite.  Many  otlier  handsome  coun- 
try places  line  the  east  bank  of  the  river  in  this  vicinity. 
Rounding  Commodore's  Point  the  city  is  in  sight,  with  the 
bridge  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  Railway  sys- 
tem crossing  the  river  to  Oklahoma  and  South  Jacksonville. 
For  description  of  Jacksonville  and  vicinity  see  p.  103. 


Domenique  de  Gourgues. 

There  is  not  in  all  history  material  for  a  more  romantic, 
pitiful,  tragic,  and  heroic  drama  than  was  enacted  along  the 
placid  reaches  of  the  lower  St,  John.  Somewhere  beneath 
these  shifting  sands  may  still  lie  the  stone  cross,  carved  with 
the  fleur-de-lis  of  France,  that  Jean  Ribaut  raised  when  he 
discovered  the  river  in  1562.  Fragments  of  arms  and  armor 
are  still  found  from  time  to  time  on  the  sites  of  the  old 
Spanish  forts. 

The  first  discoverers  made  their  welcome  harbor  here  on 
the  first  day  of  May,  and  named  the  river  in  honor  of  that 
month,  but  the  name  subsequently  given  by  the  Spaniards 
superseded  "La  Riviere  de  Mai"  of  the  Huguenots. 

Perhaps  Ribaut  took  a  rose-colored  view  of  the  land  after 
his  long  sea-voyage  in  a  crowded  ship,  but  he  certainly  was 
enamoured  of  the  climate  and  country.  "  To  bee  short,"  he 
wrote  in  his  journal,  as  done  into  English  (the  original  is  not 
known  to  exist),  "it  is  a  thing  unspeakable  to  consider  the 
things  that  bee  seene  there,  and  .shalbe  founde  more  and 
more  in  this  incomperable  land "  (Hackit's  Eng.  Transla- 
tion of  1582).  He  did  not  long  remain  here,  however,  but, 
on  June  25,  1564,  another  French  squadron  of  three  ships 


JACKSONVILLE.  121 

under  Ribaut's  lieutenant,  Ren6  ile  Laudonniere,  anchored 
off  the  bar,  and  were  welcomed  by  Satourioua,  the  powerful 
chief  of  thirty  neighboring  villages.  The  Indians  had  care- 
fully preserved,  and  even  sacrificed  to  Kibaut's  cross  with  its 
mystic  symbols.  St.  John's  Bluff  is  the  supjiosed  site  of 
Fort  Caroline,  which  the  French  forthwith  proceeded  to 
build.  The  climate  at  once  exercised  its  spell  upon  the 
members  of  the  expedition  even  in  the  heat  of  July,  and 
their  accounts  of  the  region  are  enthusiastic.  Venerable  In- 
dians were  said  to  have  been  seen  who  claimed  to  be  two 
and  a  half  centuries  old,  and  expected  to  live  thirty  or  forty 
years  more.  The  Indians,  after  some  demur,  helped  in 
building  the  fort,  which  is  depicted  by  Le  Moyne,  the 
special  artist  of  the  exj^edition,  in  his  illustrated  narra- 
tive. The  Indians  were  agriculturists,  though,  like  all 
savages,  they  had  their  intertribal  wars,  and  Satouriona  was 
glad  of  European  allies.  When  the  fort  was  finished  the 
French  Protestants,  eager  for  gold  as  were  their  Spanish 
contemporaries,  pushed  their  explorations  inland,  and 
formed  other  Indian  alliances.  Complications  and  threats 
of  war  followed,  and  during  the  winter  of  15G4-65  dis- 
satisfaction, conspiracy,  and  mutiny  developed  in  the  little 
garrison  of  the  fort.  Laudonniere  fell  ill,  provisions  ran 
short,  the  mutineers  took  possession  under  the  leadership 
of  one  Fourneaux,  and  plans  were  formed  for  buccaneer- 
ing expeditions  against  the  Spanish  West  Indies.  After  a 
partly  successful,  but  finally  disastrous  cruise,  the  bucca- 
neers returned  to  Fort  Caroline,  and  three  of  the  leaders 
were  tried  and  executed.  Their  bodies  were  hanged  on  gib- 
bets as  a  warning  to  future  mutineers. 

By  May  1,  1565,  the  French  neared  the  end  of  their  re- 
sources. In  a  land  ready  to  yield  an  hundred-fold  not  an 
acre  had  been  tilled.  The  hospitality  and  resources  of  the 
Indians  were  well-nigh  exhausted,  and  the  colony  watched 
wearily  for  reinforcements  that  had  been  promised  from 
France. 

By  dint  of  threats  and  i:>ersuasions,  Laudonnifere  managed 
to  wrest  provisions  enough  from  the  Indians  to  carry  his  men 
through  the  summer.    They  were  building  a  new  ship,  in  the 


122  JACKSON  vii>lj:. 

hope  of  escaping  from  the  now  hatetl  land  of  their  exile, 
when,  on  August  3(1,  four  ships  appeared  in  the  of!iiig,  which 
proved  to  be  the  English  squadron  of  Sir  John  Hawkins, 
who  had  been  on  a  successful  slave-hunting  expedition  to 
the  coast  of  Guinea.  Hatred  of  the  Sjianiard  was  a  senti- 
ment common  to  French  Huguenot  and  English  freebooter, 
and  the  visit  of  Hawkins  seemed  most  opportune.  He 
warned  them  of  an  intended  Spanish  attack,  renewed  their 
store  of  provisions,  and  sold  them  a  ship  in  v/hicli,  with  their 
other  vessels,  they  miglit  hope  to  reach  Fiance.  Prepara- 
tions for  departure  were  hastened,  when,  on  August  28th, 
another  fleet  appeared.  It  was  Eibaut  with  the  long-e.\i)ected 
reinforcements.  All  seemed  favorable  for  the  establishment 
of  a  prosperous  colony,  when,  to  quote  a  graphic  sentence 
from  Parkmau,  "at  half-past  eleven  on  the  night  of  Tues- 
day, September  4th,  the  crew  of  Eibaut's  flag-ship,  an- 
chored on  the  still  sea  outside  the  bar,  saw  a  huge  hulk,  gi'im 
with  the  throats  of  cannon,  drifting  toward  them  through 
the  gloom;  and  from  its  stern  rolled  on  the  sluggish  air 
the  i^ortentous  banner  of  Spain."  It  was  the  San  Pelayo, 
flagship  of  Pedro  Menendez,  accompanied  by  five  other 
vessels  bearing  five  hundred  soldiers,  and  commissioned  to 
exterminate  the  Lutheran  colony.  The  French  sliii)s  were 
not  ready  for  a  night  engagement,  so  when  the  Spaniards 
cleared  for  actiort,  they  slipped  their  cables  and  escajjed  to 
sea,  keeping  up  a  running  fire  as  they  went.  Menendez 
j)ursued,  but  the  French  outsailed  him,  and  when  he  re- 
turned he  found  such  preparations  made  for  defence  that  he 
dared  not  risk  an  attack.  Accordingly  he  sailed  southward, 
rejoined  the  rest  of  his  squadron,  and  founded  St.  Augustine 
(see  p.  135).  Here,  then,  were  two  "Christian"  colonies  on 
the  edge  of  an  unknown  continent,  three  thousand  miles 
from  home,  each  plotting  for  the  other's  destruction. 

Eibaut  was  the  first  to  make  a  move.  After  a  council  of 
war,  he  sailed  for  St.  Augustine  with  almost  all  his  able- 
bodied  men  on  September  10th,  was  caught  in  a  hurricane 
and  wrecked  near  Cape  Canaveral.  Nearly  all  escaped  with 
their  lives,  but  were  brutally  massacred  by  the  Spaniards  at 
Matanzas  (see  p.  178).     The  paltry  garrison  under  Laudon- 


JACKSONVILLE.  128 

niere  left  in  Fort  Caroline  numbered  nearly  two  huntlrecl, 
few  of  them  fit  to  bear  arms,  and  sheltered  behind  a  half- 
dismantled  fort.  "When  Menendez,  from  the  redoubt  at 
St.  Augustine,  saw  the  French  straining  every  nerve  to 
work  oft"  shore  in  the  teeth  of  an  easterly  gale,  he  con- 
ceived and  acted  upon  the  bold  idea  of  destroying  Fort  Caro- 
line during  their  absence.  Contrary  to  the  advice  of  his  of- 
ficers and  priests,  he  marched  on  this  hazardous  errand  with 
five  hundred  men.  The  storm  continued,  but  at  daybreak 
on  September  20th,  after  an  arduous  march  of  three  days, 
during  which  only  the  iron  will  and  fanatical  exaltation  of 
Menendez  prevented  open  revolt,  they  found  themselves  in 
sight  of  Fort  Caroline.  Vigilance  was  somewhat  relaxed  by 
the  guards  as  day  drew  on.  Menendez,  seeing  his  opi:)or- 
tuuity,  gave  the  word,  and  his  men  rushed,  shouting  their  war 
cry  "Santiago!"  upon  the  nearly  defenceless  Frenchmen. 
Resistance  was  made  only  by  a  few.  Laudonniere,  Le  Moyne 
the  artist,  and  Challeaux  the  carpenter,  all  of  whom  wrote  ac- 
counts of  their  exjjeriences,  escaped  to  the  woods,  where  they 
were  joined  by  others,  twenty-six  in  all,  and  succeeded  event- 
ually in  reaching  the  small  vessels  anchored  inside  the  bar. 
At  the  fort  the  work  of  extermination  was  concluded  with  the 
conscientious  fidelity  that  characterized  the  religious  wars  of 
the  period.  One  hundred  and  forty-two  souls  were  slain,  and 
their  savagely  mutilated  remains  piled  upon  the  river  bank. 
Fifty,  including  women,  infants,  and  boys  under  fifteen  were 
spared. 

It  was  generally  reported  and  believed  in  France  that  Me- 
nendez hanged  a  number  of  those  who  had  surrendered,  and 
placed  over  them  this  inscriijtion  :  "  I  do  this  not  as  to 
Frenchmen,  but  as  to  Lutherans." 

Leaving  a  strong  garrison  in  the  captured  fort,  which  was 
renamed  San  Mateo,  Menendez  marched  back  to  St.  Augus- 
tine, where  he  was  soon  destined  to  deal  with  others  of  the 
hated  Lutherans. 

On  September  25th,  the  escaped  survivors  of  the  Fort  Car- 
oline massacre  sailed  for  France  in  two  vessels,  and,  arriving 
in  due  course,  spread  the  news  of  the  savage  deeds  of  the 
Spaniards  throughout  the  kingdom. 


124:  JACK.S(JXVILLE. 

'I'lieie  was  boundless  indignation  in  Fiance,  but  the  king 
— Charles  IX. — was  afraid  of  his  powerful  neighbor,  and 
woiild  do  nothing  to  avenge  the  insult.  When  his  policy  of 
inaction  became  evident,  a  private  gentleman  of  France,  a 
tried  soldier,  Donieuique  de  Gourgues  by  name,  resolved  to 
take  the  matter  into  bis  own  Lands.  He  purchased  three 
vessels  with  his  own  means,  equij^ped  them,  manned  them 
with  one  hundred  and  eighty  soldiers  and  sailors,  and  set 
forth  on  a  crusade  as  romantic  and  more  desperate  than  that 
for  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  It  was  not  until  he  reached  Ameri- 
can waters  early  in  1568  that  he  told  his  men  the  true  jDur- 
pose  of  the  exisedition,  and  succeeded  in  an  impassioned 
speech  in  arousing  their  enthusiasm  and  gaining  their  con- 
sent. Passing  within  sight  of  the  Spanish  forts  on  the  St. 
John's,  exchanging  salutes  with  them,  indeed,  De  Gourgues 
sailed  to  the  St.  Mary's  Kiver  or  thereabout,  and  landing 
found  the  Indians  ripe  for  war  against  the  Spaniards.  The 
chief  was  Satouriona,  formerly  the  friend  of  Eibaut. 

It  took  the  Indians  three  days  to  muster  for  the  onslaught 
and  perform  their  usual  incantations.  Then,  leaving  a  small 
guard  with  the  shi23S,  de  Gourgues  and  his  Indian  allies 
moved  to  the  attack  by  way  of  Amelia  Sound,  to  what  is  now 
Fort  George  Island. 

The  Spaniards  had  partly  completed  a  fort  near  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Pilot  Town,  and  to  this  de  Gourgues  first  directed 
his  attention,  keeping  his  men  concealed  till  the  tide 
ebbed,  so  that  they  could  wade  the  inlet.  Fortune  favored 
his  movements,  and  at  noon  he  dashed  upon  the  unfinished 
defences  with  sach  vigor  that  not  one  of  sixty  Spaniards 
within  the  works  made  his  escajie.  Olotoraca,  a  young  chief, 
the  son  of  Satouriona,  who  accompanied  de  Gourgues  as 
guide,  shed  the  first  blood.  Leaping  the  ditch  with  a  French 
pike  in  his  hand,  he  transfixed  a  Spanish  cannoneer  just  as  he 
was  discharging  his  gun.  The  surprise  and  the  victory  were 
complete,  and,  save  a  few  reserved  for  a  more  terrible  fate, 
in  remembrance  of  the  acts  of  Menendez,  all  were  put  to 
the  sword. 

On  the  opposite  shore,  near  where  Mayport  now  stands, 
the  Spaniards  had  another  fort,  which  at  once  opened  fire  on 


JACKSONVILLE.  125 

the  victorious  French.  One  of  de  Gourgues'  boats  capable 
of  carrying  eighty  men,  was  j^ushed  across  under  fire,  and, 
burning  with  hatred  for  the  Spaniard,  the  Indian  allies  of 
the  French,  each  holding  his  bow  and  arrows  above  his 
head,  dashed  into  the  water  and  swam  to  the  south  bank. 
The  sight  was  too  mucli  for  the  Spaniards ;  they  forsook  the 
fort,  and  attempted  to  reach  the  forest,  forgetting  in  their 
jjanic  that  the  French  had  already  landed.  De  Gourgues 
met  them  with  his  arquebusiers  and  pikemen,  and,  before 
they  could  rally  for  an  organized  onset,  the  Indians  swarmed 
across  the  sands  and  attacked  with  such  fury  that  the  French 
could  only  rescue  fifteen  to  be  resented  for  a  more  deliberate 
A'eugeancc. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday — the  Sunday  after  Easter — and 
the  Lutherans  kept  it  by  making  scaling-ladders  for  the  as- 
sault on  Fort  San  Mateo.  The  Indians  held  the  woods  back 
of  the  fort  so  effectually  that  no  Si^aniard  could  venture  out- 
side the  works.  Nevertheless,  a  spy  in  Indian  disguise  was 
sent  forth  by  night,  but  was  instantly  detected  by  Olotoraca. 
This  man  reported  that  there  were  260  men  in  the  garrison, 
and  de  Gourgues  made  i^reimrations  to  attack  on  Tuesday 
morning.  The  Indians  were  placed  in  ambush  on  both  sides 
of  the  fort,  while  the  French  men-at-arms  advanced  after 
daybreak  along  the  river  side,  taking  to  cover  when  the 
Spanish  culverins  opened  upon  them.  With  singular  want 
of  prudence  the  Spaniards  sent  out  a  strong  reconnoitring 
l^arty,  which  Avas  cleverly  entrajiped  by  the  French  and 
killed  to  a  man.  Conscience  must  have  had  something  to 
do  with  the  action  of  the  rest  of  the  garrison,  for  many  of 
them  had  participated  in  the  butchery  of  the  Lutherans  on 
this  very  spot  three  years  before.  At  all  events,  they  gave 
way  to  panic  and  fled  to  the  woods  on  the  side  away  from 
the  French.  Here  they  were  instantly  surrounded  by  whooji- 
ing  savages,  and  the  French  coming  upon  them  from  the 
rear,  their  extermination  was  soon  complete.  Sjianish  au- 
thorities claim,  however,  that  some  few  made  good  their  es- 
cape. 

It  will  be  remembered  how  Menendez  was  said  to  have 
hanged  his  prisoners,  and  placed  over  their  bodies  the  inscrip- 


12()  JACKSONVILLK 

tion  :  -'Not  as  to  Frenclimeii,  but  as  to  Lutherans/'  It  was 
the  Frenchman's  turn  now.  De  Gourgues  had  with  diffi- 
culty saved  the  lives  of  a  number  of  his  late  antagonists. 
He  causetl  them  now  to  be  brought  before  him.  "Did  you 
tliink,"  he  said,  according  to  his  own  account,  "  that  so  vile 
a  treachery,  so  detestable  a  cruelty,  against  a  king  so  potent 
and  a  nation  so  generous,  would  go  unpunished?  I,  one  of 
the  humblest  of  gentlemen  among  my  king's  subjects,  have 
charged  myself  with  avenging  it.  Even  if  the  Most  Chris- 
tian and  Most  Catholic '  Kings  had  been  enemies  at  deadly 
war,  such  perfidy  and  extreme  cruelty  would  have  been  un- 
pardonable. Now  that  they  are  friends  and  close  allies, 
there  is  no  name  vile  enough  to  brand  your  deeds,  no  pun- 
ishment sharp  enough  to  requite  them.  But  since  you  cannot 
suffer  such  punishment  as  you  deserve,  you  shall  receive  all 
that  an  enemy  can  honorably  inflict,  to  the  end  that  others 
may  learn  to  preseiTe  the  peace  and  alliance  that  you  so 
treacherously  and  maliciously  violated.  Having  said  this," 
the  narrator  writes,  "they  were  hanged  on  the  same  trees 
where  they  had  hanged  the  Frenchmen,"  and  above  them 
was  nailed  this  inscription,  bui'ued  with  a  hot  iron  on  a  jnne 
board  :  "  I  do  this,  not  as  to  Simniards,  nor  as  to  'Marannes,' 
but  as  to  traitors,  robbers,  and  murderers."  (Marannes  was 
a  semi-contemptuous  term  then  applied  to  SiJaniards.)  Thus 
was  the  ill-fated  Huguenot  colony  avenged. 

De  Gourgues  and  his  Indian  allies  destroyed  the  forts,  re- 
turned in  triumjah  to  his  ships  and  sailed  for  France,  where 
he  received  a  pojiular  ovation,  biit,  will  it  be  believed,  was 
coldly  received  by  the  King  and  Court,  who  were  under  the 
spell  and  terror  of  Spain.  He  was  even  obliged  for  a  time 
to  remain  in  concealment  to  escape  Spanish  vengeance,  but 
finally  his  services  were  recognized  as  a  defender  of  French 
honor  ;  he  was  restored  to  royal  favor,  and  when  he  died  was 
eulogized  as  one  of  the  bravest  soldiers  of  his  time. 

'  For  several  centuries  the  Kings  of  France  and  Spain  were  known  respec- 
tively by  these  titles. 


FERNANDIXA.  127 

20.  Femaudiiia.     Nassau  Co.  (C.  H.). 

Pop.,  4,000.— Lat.  SO"  49'  N.— Long.  81°  26'  W.— Mean  rise  and  fall  of  tifle.  6 
feet.    See  county  map,  pase  6G. 

The  Kgmont  Hotel,  S2  upward,  special  rates  for  permanent  guests,  open  at 
all  seasons. 

Railroads,  Steamers,  etc. — The  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula  Railroad  affords 
direct  communication  with  Jacksonville,  Tallahassee,  Cedar  Key,  Orlando,  Plant 
C!ty,  etc.  isee  p.  6Ti,  and  consult  local  time-tables. 

The  steamers  of  the  MaUory  line  make  weekly  tripe  to  and  from  New  York, 
leaving  New  York  on  Fridays.  Time,  4S  hours.  Cabin  passage,  including 
room  iind  table,  $23. 

Coastw.'se  steamers  ply  daily  through  Cumberland  Sound  to  and  from  the 
Gieorgia  ports. 

History. 

The  harbor  of  Feruaiulina,  the  finest  on  the  coast  south 
of  Chesapeake  Bay,  was  known  to  the  early  explorers, 
and  was  jsrobably  used  by  them  as  a  safe  anchorage.  De 
Gourgues  made  it  his  base  of  oj^erations  against  the  Sjjan- 
iards  in  1568,  when  it  was  the  head-quarters  of  an  Indian 
tribe  able  to  muster  some  three  thousand  warriors.  It  was 
not  until  1808  that  a  permanent  settlement  was  established 
by  the  Spaniards.  During  the  period  of  the  embargo  under 
Jeflferson's  administration  it  assumed  considerable  imijortauce 
as  a  sea-port.  In  1818,  just  after  the  second  war  with  Eng- 
land, a  movement  known  as  the  Patriot  War  was  inaugurated, 
with  the  secret  connivance  of  the  United  States  Government, 
and  its  first  act  was  the  capture  of  Fernandina,  the  Spanish 
garrison  offering  uo  resistance  worth  mentioning.  The 
leader  of  this  movement  was  one  McGregor,  a  Scotchman, 
who  forthwith  inaugurated  a  period  of  prosperity  for  Fer- 
nandina by  making  it  a  head-quarters  for  the  freebooters  who 
still  infested  the  Spanish  main.  McGregor  was  before  long 
forced  to  abdicate,  and  the  collapse  of  the  "  Patriot  army  " 
soon  followed. 

Fernandina  grew  slowly  to  be  a  place  of  some  importance. 
The  railroad  was  opened  in  1861,  and  at  the  outbreak  of  the 
Civil  War  the  inhabitants  numbered  about  two  thousand. 

Long  before  this  the  town  was  well  fortified  against  an 
attack  by  sea.  Fort  Clinch,  the  most  important  of  the  defen- 
sive works,  was  completed  prior  to  the  Civil  War,  and,  being 
without  a  garrison,  was  promptly  seized  by  the  Confederates 


128  FERNANDINA. 

in  1861.  It  is  a  pentagonal  structure  of  brick  and  concrete, 
with  bastions  and  detached  scarps,  loopholed  for  musketry. 
Tlie  armament  at  that  time  included  two  large  rifled  guns, 
and  twenty-seven  32-pounders. 

The  i^ermanent  works  were  flanked  with  water  batteries, 
and  strengthened  with  sand  embankments  under  the  super- 
vision of  competent  military  engineers.  A  battery  of  four 
guns  was  erected  on  Cumberland  Island. 

Approach  by  sea  was  imi^racticable  in  the  face  of  these 
guns,  and  in  view  of  the  tortuous  channel.  The  harbor, 
however,  was  imjoortant  to  both  parties,  as  it  afforded  a 
haven  for  blockade-runners  considerably  nearer  than  any 
other  to  the  neutral  i)orts  at  Bermuda  and  on  the  Bahamas. 
The  Confederate  garrison  was  aboiit  two  thousand  strong, 
under  command  of  General  J.  H.  Trapier. 

On  the  morning  of  August  G,  1861,  the  inhabitants  of  the 
city  were  called  to  arms  and  to  witness  a  race  between  the 
United  States  Ship  Vincennes  and  the  Alvarado,  a  prize  of 
the  Confederate  privateer  Jeff  Davis.  The  latter  was  making 
for  the  bar  under  all  sail,  but  was  forced  ashore,  abandoned 
by  her  crew,  and  afterward  fired  by  boat  crews  from  the 
Vincennes,  it  being  obviously  impossible  to  set  her  afloat 
again.  In  February,  1862,  an  expedition  was  organized  at 
Port  Eioyal  by  Commodore  Dupont,  U.  S.  N ,  and  sailed  on 
the  last  day  of  that  month  for  the  capture  of  Fernaudina. 
The  fleet  consisted  of  nineteen  vessels,  mainly  gunboats  of 
light  draught. 

On  reaching  the  upper  end  of  the  sound  Commodore  Du- 
pont anchored  to  wait  for  the  tide,  and  there  learned  from 
an  escaped  negro  slave  that  the  garrison  at  Fernandina  was 
already  abandoning  the  town  and  fortifications.  The  light- 
est and  fleetest  gunboats  were  immediately  despatched  down 
the  Sound  under  Commander  Percival  Drayton  to  prevent 
destruction  of  property  if  jjossible,  while  the  rest  of  the 
fleet  took  the  outside  passage.  Cumberland  Sound  proved 
too  shallow,  however,  and  only  the  Ottawa  could  get  through. 
Drayton  went  aboard  of  her  and  pushed  on.  As  he  passed 
Fort  Clinch,  a  boat's  crew  was  sent  to  hoist  the  American 
flag  as  a  signal  to  the  fleet.     A  white  flag  was  displayed  at 


FERNANDINA.  129 

Fernandina,  but  shots  were  fired  at  the  Ottawa,  and  a  rail- 
way train  drawn  by  two  engines  was  discovered  just  moving 
off.  It  was  naturally  supposed  to  contain  trooj^s,  and  an  ex- 
citing chase  ensued,  as  the  track  was  for  some  four  miles 
within  range  of  the  river.  The  Ottawa  endeavored  to  dis- 
able the  engines  with  her  large  rifled  gun,  but  the  train  had 
the  advantage  of  si:)eed,  and  eventually  left  the  gunboat  be- 
hind, escaping  across  the  bridge.  A  steamer,  the  Darling- 
ton, crowded  with  refugees,  was  less  fortunate,  being  captured 
by  the  Ottawa's  boats. 

It  is  significant  of  the  then  existing  conditions  of  warfare 
that  Commander  Drayton  was  a  native  of  South  Carolina, 
while  John  Brock,  captain  of  the  captured  steamboat,  was  a 
Vermonter. 

It  subsequently  apjaeared  that  the  Confederate  authorities 
had  attempted  to  remove  all  the  inhabitants  under  the  mis- 
taken idea  that  they  were  in  danger  of  brutal  treatment 
from  the  captors. 

Of  the  United  States  forts  seized  by  the  Confederates,  Fort 
Clinch  was  one  of  the  first  to  be  regained  by  Government 
forces.  The  occupation  of  Fernandina  restored  to  Federal 
control  the  whole  of  the  sea-coast  of  Georgia,  and  afforded  a 
convenient  base  of  operations  against  Jacksonville  and  St. 
Augustine. 

After  the  capture  of  the  Darlington,  the  Ottawa  steamed 
up  the  St.  Mary's  River  as  far  as  King's  Ferry,  fifty-two 
miles,  to  reconnoitre,  and  while  returning  was  fired  upon  by 
infantry,  said  to  have  been  the  Twenty-ninth  Mississippi 
Regiment,  in  ambush  on  shore.  The  fire  was  instantly 
returned  at  short  range  with  grape-shot,  and  with  such 
deadly  effect  that  no  further  opposition  was  experiencedo 
Several  men  were  wounded  on  board  the  Ottawa. 


130  FERNANDINA. 

21.  Amelia  Island, 

on  wliicli  Fernandina  stands,  is  tliiiteeu  milea  long,  and  from 
one  to  two  and  one-half  miles  wide.  It  is  low  and  fiat,  or 
only  gently  undulating,  with  marshes  along  the  inland  shore, 
but  heavily  wooded  to  seaward.  Outside  of  the  woods  is  a 
belt  of  sand-hills  and  scrub,  and  beyond  these  a  fine  beach  of 
hard  white  sand  on  which  it  is  a  luxury  to  walk,  ride,  or  drive. 

A  pleasant  walk  may  be  taken  by  following  either  the 
ocean  beach  or  one  of  the  roads  leading  north  from  the  hotel. 
The  village  of  Old  Fernandina,  where  the  first  settlement  was 
made,  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  present  city. 

A  mile  farther  is  Amelia  Island  Lighthouse,  with  the 
keeper's  dwelling  pleasantly  situated  among  trees  on  a 
bluff  about  fifty  feet  higher  than  the  sea  level.  The 
light  was  originally  established  in  1836.  The  present  tower 
was  built  in  1880.  It  is  58  feet  high,  and  the  lantern  is  112 
feet  above  the  sea  level.  It  shows  a  white  flash-light  at  in- 
tervals of  90  seconds,  vi-sible  at  sea  16*  nautical  miles. 
From  the  lighthouse  to  the  extreme  northern  point  of  the 
island  is  two  miles,  an  easy  and  jjleasant  walk  along  the 
ocean  beach,  save  at  high  tide,  when  the  hard  belt  of  beach 
is  under  water.     (See  maps,  pp.  24:  and  26.) 


22.  Amelia  River 

enters  Cumberland  Sound  just  inside  the  northern  end  of 
Amelia  Island.  It  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  separating  the  island 
from  Tiger  Island  and  the  mainland  of  Florida.  This  por- 
tion of  the  strait  is  North  Amelia  River.  It  connects  with 
South  Amelia  River  through  Kiugsley's  Creek,  a  narrow 
passage  with  only  two  feet  of  water  at  the  "  divide  "  where 
the  tides  meet  at  the  southern  end  of  the  creek.  Shar- 
pies and  small  boats  can  j^ass  at  any  time.  Six  feet  draught 
can  be  taken  through  from  sound  to  sound  at  high  water. 
The  South  Amelia  is  narrow  and  crooked,  bordered  by  ex- 
tensive marshes.  It  receives  two  navigable  tributaries, 
Lanceford  Creek  and  Bill's  River,  the  latter  running  north- 
ward into  the  St.  Mary's  through  Jolly  River  after  a  tortuous 
course  of  seven  and  one-half  miles.    (See  maps,  pp.  2J:  and  26.) 


FERNANDINA.  181 

23.  Nassau  Sound 

is  formed  by  Amelia  and  Little  Talbot  Islandsj  the  inlet 
between  tliem  being  one  mile  and  a  half  wide.  The  sound 
itself  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide  for  about  two  miles, 
and  then  divides,  forming  South  Amelia  River  on  the  north 
and  Nassau  River  on  the  south.  The  enti-ance  is  obstructed 
by  shifting  sands,  which  make  out  to  sea  one  mile  and  a 
quarter,  and  are  marked  by  a  can  buoy  in  twenty-four  feet  of 
water.  There  is  good  anchorage  under  the  south  point  of 
Amelia  Island.     (See  maps,  pp,  24  and  26.) 


24.  Cumberland  Sound. 

The  entrance  to  this  sound  is  almost  exactly  a  mile  wide 
between  Cumberland  Island  on  the  north  and  Amelia  Island 
on  the  south.  The  sound  itself,  with  an  average  width  of 
about  a  mile,  is  nine  miles  long,  and  affords  an  inside  pas- 
sage between  the  mainland  of  Georgia  and  Cumberland 
Island,  to  St.  Andrew's  Sound  and  the  Cumberland  River. 
Six  feet  draught  can  be  carried  through  at  low  water,  but 
the  passage  is  variable,  owing  to  shifting  sand,  and  a  pilot 
is  necessary  for  all  vessels  of  more  than  two  feet  draught. 

Viewed  from  the  offing,  Cumberland  Island  appears  to  be 
divided,  but  both  parts  are  in  reality  joined  by  a  stretch  of 
low  land,  which  becomes  visible  on  nearer  approach. 

Near  the  southern  end  of  the  island  formerly  stood  Dun- 
geuess  House,  the  home  of  General  Nathaniel  Greene,  of  the 
Continental  army.  In  recognition  of  his  conspicuous  services 
in  the  Revolutionary  War,  the  State  of  Georgia  gave  him 
this  fine  estate,  which  was  for  many  years  occupied  by  him 
and  afterward  by  his  heirs.  During  the  Civil  War  both  sides 
respected  this  historic  mansion.  When  Fernaudina  was  oc- 
cupied by  United  States  Troops,  a  safeguard  was  placed  on 
the  property,  and  the  following  order  posted  at  the  entrance  : 

Th^s  property,  belonging  orlgiuallj'  to  General  Nathaniel  Greene,  a  Revolu- 
tionary hero  and  a  native  of  Rhode  Island,  is  now  the  property  of  his  grandson 
Mr.  Nightingale.    It  is  hereby  ordered  and  enjoined  upon  all  who  may  visit  this 


132  PERNANDINA. 

place  to  hold  eve:-j-th;ng  about  the  place  sacred,  and  in  no  case  diBturb  or  take 
away  any  article  without  a  special  order  from  Flag  Officer  Dupont  or  General 
Wright. 

Tlius  protected,  the  old  mansion  survived  the  dangers  of 
the  time,  only  to  be  accidentally  burned  some  years  after- 
ward. Subsequently  the  property  was  purchased  by  its  pres- 
ent owner,  who  removed  the  ruin  and  erected  a  modern 
structure  in  its  place. 

Cumberland  Sound  is  almost  wholly  surrounded  by  marshes 
through  which  numerous  tributaries  find  their  way.  The 
most  important  of  these  is  St.  Mary's  Eiver,  on  which  is  the 
town  of  St.  Mary's,  Ga.,  about  three  and  one-half  miles 
from  the  mouth.  A  work  of  improvement  by  means  of 
jetties  was  begun  in  1881  by  United  States  Army  engineers, 
intended  to  establish  a  deijth  of  twenty-one  feet  at  mean  low 
water.  The  jetties  are  only  partially  comi^leted,  and  a  large 
portion  of  them  are  still  submerged.  The  outer  ends  are 
about  three  thousand  feet  apart,  and  the  outer  portions  of 
the  jetties  are  jiavallel.  The  St.  Mary's  River  has  its  source 
far  back  in  the  interior,  and  for  a  long  distance  it  forms  the 
boundary  between  Florida  and  Georgia.  It  is  easily  navi- 
gable for  sea-going  vessels  for  ninety-three  miles,  but  high 
Avoods  shut  off  the  wind,  so  that  it  is  difficult  for  sailing 
craft.  Jolly  River  is  a  navigable  arm  some  six  miles  long, 
and  nearly  jjarallel  to  the  lower  reach  of  the  St.  Mary's. 
Reed's  Bluflf  is  a  conspicuous  hill  of  white  sand,  seven  miles 
above  St.  Mary's.  Twenty-seven  miles  above  St.  Mary's  is  a 
cut-off,  practicable  for  small  boats  at  high  water,  which  lessens 
the  distance  by  several  miles.  There  are  no  special  points 
of  interest  on  the  river,  but  there  are  several  lumber  mills 
and  logging  stations,  rarely  visited  by  tourists.  These,  after 
leaving  Reed's  Bluff,  are  Port  Henry,  Wild's  Landing,  Brick- 
yard, Germantown,  Woodstock,  King's  Ferry,  Orange  Bluff, 
Camp  Pinckney,  Calico  Hill,  and  Trader's  Hill,  which  is  at 
the  head  of  navigation.  Pleasant  excursions  up  the  river 
may  be  made  in  launches  from  Fernandina,  and  fairly  good 
shooting  may  be  had  for  water-fowl  in  the  season.  At 
King's  Ferry  are  stores  where  ordinary  supplies  may  be  ob- 
tained. 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  133 


30.  Saint  Augustine.    St.  John's  County. 

Population,  10,000.— Lat.  29"  53'  7"  N.— Long.  81"  17'  12"  W.— Mean  rise  and 
fall  of  tide,  4  feet. 

Hotels.— (Rates  are  given  by  the  day  unless  otherwise  stated.)  Alcazar, 
rooms  $2  upward ;  restaurant  d  la  carte. — Carletoii  House,  $3. — Cordova,  $4  up- 
ward.— Florida  House,  $3.50  to  $4. — Hernandez,  $2  to  $3. — Magnolia,  $3  to  $4. — 
Plaza  Hotel,  Rooms  50c.  to  $2. — Ponce  de  Leon,  $5  upward. — San  Marco,  |4. 
Special  rates  usually  made  for  permanent  guests,  or  by  the  week.  There  are 
many  good  boarding-houses,  at  $8  to  $15  a  week. 

Railways.— The  lines  to  Jacksonville  (p.  85),  Palatka  (p.  84),  and  Tocoi, 
all  of  the  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system,  and  the  North  Beach  Railway,  converge  at 
the  Union  Station,  Malaga  Street.  The  St.  Augustine  <fe  South  Beach  Railway 
on  Anastasia  Island  is  reached  by  ferry  from  Central  Wharf,  near  the  Plaza. 
Carriage  rate  from  stations  to  any  part  of  city  25c.  ;  luggage,  25c.  per  piece. 

Livery  may  generally  be  best  engaged  through  hotel  clerk.  Saddle-horses,  $1 
an  hour,  $3  a  day  ;  single  teams.  $1.50  an  hoiu*,  $4  a  day ;  double  teams  with 
driver,  $3  an  hour,  $5  upward  n  day. 

Boats  with  attendants,  25c.  to  $1  an  hour,  $2  to  $5  a  day  ;  to  be  found  at  Central 
Wharf,  near  Plaza.  Special  terms  must  be  made  for  steam  launches  or  for  sail 
boats  for  long  excursions. 

Guide  and  hunter,  James  Ponce,  $3  to  $5,  according  to  services  required,  a 
day. 

Churches.— Ba])tmt,  Sunday  service,  10.30  a.m.,  7.30  p.m.,  in  Masonic  Hall. — 
Episcopalian,  Trinity  Church,  south  side  of  Plaza,  Sunday  service,  10.30  a.m., 
7  P.M. — Methodist,  Grace  Church,  Cordova  and  Carriere  Streets,  Sunday  service, 
10.30  A.M.,  7  P.M. — Presbyterian,  St.  George  Street  near  Bridge,  Sunday  service, 
10.30  A.M.,  7  P.M. — Roman  Catholic,  St.  Joseph's  Cathedral,  north  side  of  Plaza, 
Sunday  service,  6,  3,  and  10  a.m.,  4  p.m. 

Younij  Men^s  Christian  Association. — Rooms  in  Lyon  Block,  comer  St.  Gteorge 
and  Alameda  Streets. 

Points  of  Interkst  in  St.  Augustine. 

Fort  Marion  (p:  157). 

Museums  (p.  166). 

St.  Francis  Barracks,  etc.  (p.  165). 

Hotel  Ponce  de  Leon  (p.  168j. 

The  Alcazar  (p.  172). 

The  Cordova  <p.  172). 

Sea  Wall,  etc.  (p.  156). 

The  City  Gates  (p.  173). 

The  Catholic  Cathedral  (p.  156). 

The  Plaza  (p.  155). 

Post  Office,  northern  end  of  Plaza, 

Banks.— First  National,  north  end  of  Plaza  (hours  9.30  a.m.  to  2  p.m.).— St. 
John's  County  Savings  Bank,  Hotel  Cordova  (hours  9  a.m.  to  3  p.m.) 

.S/fop*.- The  best  stores  are  in  the  Alcazar,  on  the  Plaza  or  its  immediate 
vicinity,  or  on  St.  George  Street,  all  within  10  minutes  of  Plaza. 

Physicians  may  be  called  by  telephone  from  all  the  hotels. 


134  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

History. 

As  tlie  earliest  permanent  settlement  of  Europeans  within 
the  pi-esent  territory  of  tlie  United  States,  Han  Augustin, 
as  the  Spaniards  wrote  the  name,  will  always  be  of  exceii- 
tional  interest  to  Americans.  In  a  degree  it  has  claims  also 
npon  Spaniards,  upon  the  English,  and  npon  the  French, 
for  all  of  them  have,  at  one  time  or  another,  fought  for  it  or 
against  it. 

The  early  navigators  were  lured  to  Florida  by  stories  of 
wealth  and  magic  that  met  them  before  even  they  had  sighted 
the  shores  of  the  continent.  It  is  curious  that  the  fabled 
"  Fountain  of  Youth  "  should  have  crossed  the  ocean  in  ad- 
vance of  the  Spanish  ships,  and  yet  we  have  the  testimony 
of  Peter  Martyr,  in  an  address  to  the  Fope,  to  the  effect  that 
the  existence  of  such  a  fountain  was  well  attested  and  be- 
lieved by  the  explorers  themselves.  There  was,  indeed,  a 
better  foundation  for  this  fable  than  for  the  tales  of  gold 
that  always  accomijanied  it.  There  are  a  score  of  sjDrings  in 
Florida,  any  one  of  which  might  easily  impress  an  ignorant 
or  superstitious  beholder  with  the  idea  of  supernatural  vir- 
tues. Probably  native  descriptions  of  those  marvellous 
springs  had  much  to  do  with  Ponce  de  Leon's  undoubted 
belief  in  the  legend.  He  was  growing  old,  and  with  the 
prospect  of  wealth  and  renewed  youth  before  him,  it  was  no 
wonder  that  he  was  eager  to  test  the  truth  of  every  story 
that  reached  his  ears.  So  it  came  to  jdrss  that  he  landed,  and 
claimed  "  Pascua  Florida"  for  his  Most  Catholic  Majesty  the 
King  of  Spain,  a  few  miles  north  of  St.  Augustine.  The  exact 
locality  can  never  be  known,  but  it  could  not  have  been  far 
from  Seloy,  a  considerable  Indian  town  on  the  site  of  the  pres- 
ent city.  Hardly  had  the  Sijaniards  inade  a  landing,  when 
they  were  set  upon  by  such  a  formidable  baud  of  Indians  that 
they  were  glad  to  escape  to  their  boats,  carrying  with  them, 
fatally  wounded,  their  gallant  old  commander.  This  was  on 
April  3,  1512,  and,  as  it  is  not  likely  that  so  large  a  war  party 
of  Indians  could  have  been  hastily  rallied  at  a  distance  from 
some  large  town,  we  may  safely  assume  that  Ponce  de  Leon 
made  his  great  discovery  and  received  his  death-wound  al- 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  135 

most  within  sight  of  the  spot  where  the  French  Huguenot, 
Kene  de  Laudonnifire,  landed  fifty-two  years  afterward  (June 
22,  1564).  Laudonni(5re  translated  the  native  name  Seloy 
into  French,  inadvertently,  jjerhaps,  and  named  the  estuary 
La  Riviere  des  Dauphines,  because  of  the  numerous  jior- 
poises  or  "  dolphins  "  that  then,  as  now,  made  it  their  feed- 
ing-ground. The  French,  however,  sailed  away  in  search  of 
a  more  promising  location,  and  eventually  built  Fort  Caro- 
line on  the  St.  John's  River  (see  p.  118). 

This  French  expedition  was  the  immediate  cause  of  the 
Spanish  settlement  at  St.  Augustine.  It  was  essentially  a 
Protestant  colony,  sent  out  under  the  patronage  of  Admiral 
Coligny,  and  with  the  assent  of  Charles  IX.,  then  king  of 
France.  When  news  of  the  building  of  Fort  Caroline 
reached  Madrid,  great  was  the  wrath  of  the  Spanish  king 
and  his  courtiers.  It  was  bad  enough  that  the  Spanish 
rights  of  discovery  should  be  invaded,  but  that  the  invaders 
should  be  heretics  was  more  than  Catholic  human  nature 
could  endure.  Pedro  Menendez  de  Aviles,  a  devout  and 
bigoted  religionist,  a  brave,  cruel,  and  uncompromising 
soldier,  was  commissioned  to  exterminate  the  French  Colony. 
His  compact  with  the  king  bound  him  to  transport  to  Flori- 
da 12  priests,  4  Jesuit  fathers,  100  horses,  200  horned  cattle, 
400  sheeja  and  goats,  400  swine,  and  500  slaves.  He  agreed  to 
establish  two  or  three  towns,  each  of  100  families,  and  was 
to  have  the  title  of  Adelentado,  or  governor,  and  Marquis, 
with  various  other  privileges  and  emoluments. 

With  2,600  men  in  11  vessels  he  sailed,  and  on  September 
7,  1565,  anchored  in  the  River  of  Dolphins  with  about  half 
his  fleet. 

"  On  Saturday,  the  eighth  day  of  September,"  writes  Fray 
Francisco  Loj^ez  de  Mendoza,  Chaplain  of  the  fleet,  "  the  day 
of  the  Nativity  of  Our  Lady,  the  General  disembarked  with 
numerous  banners  displayed,  trumpets  and  other  martial 
music  resounding,  and  amid  salvos  of  artillery.  Carrying  a 
cross,  I  proceeded  at  the  head,  chanting  the  hymn  7e  Deum 
Laudamns.  The  General  marched  straight  up  to  the  cross,  to- 
gether with  all  those  who  accompanied  him,  and,  kneeling, 
they  all  kissed  the  cross.     After  this,  possession  was  formally 


136  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

taken  in  the  name  of  his  Majesty,  and  the  officers  all  took  an 
oath  of  allegiance." 

To  the  many  Indians  who  watched  these  ceremonies  all 
this  must  have  been  a  wonderful  sight.  The  chaplain  says 
that  they  imitated  whatever  they  saw  done,  kneeling,  cross- 
ing themselves  and  bowing  as  they  saw  the  Europeans  do. 

The  Indian  village  of  Seloy,  or  Selooe,  stood  where  the 
city  now  is,  and  it  must  have  been  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.  The  chief  was  friendly,  and  assigned  quarters 
to  the  soldiers  in  a  large  building  situated  near  the  shore. 
Fatigue  parties  were  instantly  set  to  work,  and,  almost  be- 
fore the  kindly  chief  knew  what  was  doing,  a  little  Si^anish 
fort  stood  in  the  midst  of  his  village,  with  guns  in  position, 
and  sentries  walking  their  beats  in  regular  EurojDean  style. 
From  that  day  to  this  St.  Augustine  has  been  the  abode  of 
Europeans.  After  the  devout  custom  of  the  Spanish  ex- 
plorers, the  place  was  at  once  named  in  honor  of  the  Saint 
of  that  day,  who  providentially  was  a  very  distinguished 
Saint,  namely,  Aurelius  Augustinus,  easily  the  greatest  of 
the  four  fathers  of  the  Christian  Church  (a.  d.  354  to  A.  d.  430). 
He  was  Bishop  of  Hippo  Regius,  the  ancient  seat  of  the 
Numidiau  kings,  and  his  memory  and  teachings  are  still 
cherished  alike  by  Catholics  and  Protestants. 

Eighty  cannon  were  forthwith  landed,  and  the  post  was 
speedily  j^ut  in  a  state  for  defence. 

On  September  10th  the  French  ships  came  down  from  the 
St.  John's  in  the  night,  and,  according  to  the  good  chaplain 
before  quoted,  were  only  j)revented  from  capturing  the  ves- 
sels and  all  who  were  left  on  board,  by  the  special  interpo- 
sition of  Our  Lady  of  Bon  Secours  d'  Utrera,  who,  in  answer 
to  the  prayers  of  the  frightened  mariners,  descended  in  per- 
son upon  one  of  the  vessels,  bringing  a  breeze  that  enabled 
all  to  escape.  Further  than  this,  the  good  lady,  or  some 
other  power,  caused  a  terrific  gale  lo  arise,  which  wrecked  the 
French  fleet  before  it  could  regain  the  St.  John's. 

Now  was  Menendez's  opportunity.  He  promptly  despatched 
five  hundred  men,  knowing  that  the  garrison  at  Fort  Caro- 
line must  be  greatly  weakened,  sui*prised  and  captured  the 
fort,  and  put  to  the  sword  those  of  the  garrison  whom  he 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE.  137 

did  not  hang  (see  i>.  123).  This  success  "was  followed  by  the 
surrender  and  execution  of  most  of  tlie  shipwrecked  French- 
men at  Matauzas  Inlet  (see  p.  178). 

On  Sejitember  28,  1565,  St.  Augustine  set  the  example 
that  has  since  been  followed  by  neaily  every  town  in  the 
State — it  had  a  great  fire.  The  quarters  occupied  by  the 
garrison  were  consumed,  with  large  quantities  of  stores  and 
jjrovisions.  Incendiarism  was  suspected,  but  never  proved. 
Work  was  begun  immediately  on  a  regular  fortification,  the 
Sjianiards  having  before  them  a  wholesome  fear  of  French 
vengeance  for  the  recently  perpetrated  massacres.  More- 
over, it  was  learned  presently  that  about  two  hundred  French- 
men still  survived,  and  had  fortified  themselves  at  Canaveral 
— probably  north  of  the  present  Caj^e  of  that  name.  Against 
this  fort  Menendez  presently  moved,  and  one  hundred  and 
fifty  of  the  garrison  surrendered,  and  for  some  inexplicable 
reason  were  courteously  treated  as  prisoners  of  war. 

The  winter  that  followed  was  a  most  trying  one  to  the 
garrison,  increased  as  it  was  by  the  accession  of  the  French 
l^risoners.  The  Indians,  friendly  at  first,  had  been  estranged, 
as  usual,  by  cruel  treatment  from  the  Spaniards.  No  one 
could  go  outside  the  fort  to  hunt  or  fish  without  danger  from 
an  ever-vigilant  and  pretematurally  crafty  foe.  It  is  credibly 
stated  that  more  than  one  hundred  and  twenty  of  the  gar- 
rison were  thus  killed,  including  several  ofiicers. 

At  this  crisis,  while  provisions  were  growing  scarce, 
Menendez  went  to  Cuba  for  relief.  During  his  absence  the 
garrison  mutinied,  and  not  even  his  return  sufficed  wholly  to 
restore  discipline.  Altogether  some  five  hundred  men  re- 
turned to  Cuba,  Mexico,  and  Spain,  and  for  the  first  time 
in  history  Florida  was  denounced  to  intending  settlers  as 
barren,  swampy,  and  unproductive. 

The  fort  was  completed  before  sjiring,  but  by  June  pro- 
visions again  ran  short,  and  but  for  the  timely  arrival  from 
Spain  of  a  fleet  of  seventeen  vessels  with  1,500  men  and  ample 
supplies  the  attempt  to  colonize  Florida  must  have  been 
abandoned.  Juan  de  Avila  was  admiral  of  this  fleet,  and 
with  him  he  brought  to  Menendez  a  welcome  letter  from 
his  royal  master,  Philip  II.,  wherein  the  "  retribution  you 


138  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

have  visited  upon  the  Lutheran  pirates  "  was  warmly  com- 
mended. In  the  meantime,  operating  from  St.  Augustine, 
as  head-quarters,  several  colonies  were  planted,  and,  leaving 
affairs  in  a  seemingly  prosperous  condition,  Menendez  caused 
to  be  built  a  20-ton  '-frigate,"  of  veiy  light  construction, 
in  which  he  sailed  for  Sjiain,  making  the  run  to  the  Azores, 
more  than  three  thousand  miles,  in  the  remarkably  short 
time  of  seventeen  days.  He  was  received  with  high  honors 
by  Philip  II ,  but  in  the  meantime  vengeance  was  brewing 
in  France,  and  before  Menendez  could  return  to  St.  Augus- 
tine, the  soldier  of  fortune,  Domenique  de  Gourgues,  had 
captured  the  Sisanish  forts  on  the  St.  John's,  and  avenged 
the  massacre  of  the  Huguenot  colony  (see  p.  120). 

Shortly  after  this  Menendez  returned  from  Spain  to  find 
the  garrison  at  St.  Augustine  again  on  the  point  of  starva- 
tion and  mutiny.  It  seems  incredible  that,  in  such  a  pro- 
lific land  as  Florida  has  since  proved  to  be,  no  serious  efforts 
were  made  to  cultivate  the  soil,  but  it  is  certain  that  starva- 
tion more  than  once  threatened  the  garrison  at  St.  Augustine 
during  the  nine  years  that  intervened  before  Menendez's 
death. 

In  the  Church  of  San  Nicolas,  at  A\'iles,  is  a  handsome 
monument  bearing  the  following  inscription,  which  is  here 
translated  to  show  the  distinguished  titles  and  honors  held 
by  the  founder  of  "  San  Augnstin  :  " 

"  Here  lies  buried  the  illustrious  Cavalier  Pedro  Menen- 
dez de  Aviles,  a  native  of  this  city,  Adelantado  of  the  Prov- 
inces of  Florida,  Knight  Commander  of  Santa  Cruz  of  the 
order  of  Santiago,  and  Captain  General  of  the  Oceanic  Seas, 
and  of  the  Armada  which  his  Royal  Highness  collected  at 
Santander  in  the  year  1574,  where  he  died  in  the  55th  year 
of  his  age." 

After  its  founder's  death  the  colony  at  St.  Augustine  was 
left  mainly  to  its  own  resources,  and  soon  began  to  learu 
how  to  take  care  of  itself.  It  passed  through  the  usual 
trials  of  a  frontier  town  during  the  twelve  years  that  fol- 
lowed, slowly  growing,  however,  in  strength  and  resources. 
On  May  28  (O.  S.),  1586,  the  English  freebooter.  Sir  Francis 
Drake,  was  sailing  up  the  coast  and  discovered  a  lookout  on 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  139 

Anastasia  Island.  "None  amongst  us  had  any  knowledge 
of  it  at  all,"  says  Drake  in  bis  narrative.  So  an  armed  party 
was  sent  ashore,  who  discovered  the  fort  and  town,  and  re- 
jjorted  accordingly.  Upon  this  Drake  landed  a  cannon  near 
the  head  of  the  island  and  opened  fire  just  as  night  fell. 
The  first  shot  "  strake  through  the  Ensigne,"  and  the  second 
struck  the  wall  of  the  fort.  Darkness  prevented  further  op- 
erations, but  during  the  night  Christopher  Carleil,  the  lieu- 
tenant-general, made  a  reconnoissanee  in  "  a  little  rowing 
Skiife,"  and  was  fired  at  from  the  fort. 

Morning  dawned,  and,  continues  Drake  in  his  narrative, 
"forthwith  came  a  Frenchman,  being  a  Phijjher,  in  a  little 
boat,  playing  on  his  Phiph  the  tune  of  the  Prince  of  Orange 
his  Song."  The  deserter  proved  to  be  one  Nicolas  de  Bur- 
goyne,  who  had  been  spared  by  Menendez  at  the  time  of  the 
Huguenot  massacre.  He  reported  the  evacuation  of  the 
fort.  The  English  immediately  manned  their  boats  without 
waiting  for  full  daylight,  and  found  the  French  fifer's  report 
true,  the  garrison  of  150  men  having  fled  in  such  haste  that 
the  treasure-chest,  containing  £2,000,  fell  into  Drake's  hands. 

An  advance  was  then  made  upon  the  town,  which  lay  some 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  southward,  but,  after  a  feeble 
show  of  resistance,  both  soldiers  and  inhabitants  fled,  and 
Drake  pillaged  and  burned  the  place,  which  had  by  this 
time  attained  quite  a  respectable  size,  with  a  "Hall  of 
Justice,"  a  parish  church,  a  monastery,  and  twelve  squares 
of  dwellings  and  other  buildings,  each  with  its  garden  on 
the  west  side. 

The  fort  (St.  John  of  the  Pines)  was  a  rude  octagonal  af- 
fair of  pine  logs,  set  palisadewise,  was  without  ditches,  and 
is  described  as  quite  incapable  of  resisting  such  an  attack  as 
Drake  could  have  delivered.  The  narrative  says,  in  fact, 
"So as  to  say  the  truth  they  had  no  reason  to  keepe  it,  being 
subject  both  to  fire,  and  easie  of  assault." 

The  English  soon  dejjarted,  and  the  Spanish  governor,  a 
nephew  and  namesake  of  the  original  founder,  led  back  his 
colony  and  began  the  work  of  reconstruction. 

In  1592  twelve  Franciscan  missionaries  amved  and  began 
systematically  to  work  for  the  conversion  of  the  Indians. 


140  SAINT  AUGUSTINli;. 

The  governor  had  encouraged  Indian  settlements,  and  two 
villages  liad  been  established,  known  as  Talomato  and 
Tapoqui,  the  first  being  in  or  near  the  northwest  i)art  of  the 
town,  and  the  second  a  little  to  the  northward  of  the  fort, 
where  was  an  Indian  church  consecrated  to  '*  Our  Lady  of 
the  Milk."  In  1598  the  native  converts  began  to  tire  of  ec- 
clesiastical restraint,  and  under  the  leadership  of  a  young 
chief  broke  into  the  chapel  at  Talomato,  which  stood  near  the 
present  Roman  Catholic  Cemetery,  and  killed  Father  Corpa 
while  at  his  evening  devotion.  Thence  they  went  to  Tapoqui 
and  sei-ved  Father  Roderiguez  in  like  manner,  permitting 
him,  however,  at  his  own  request,  to  put  on  his  vestments 
and  say  mass.  He  was  killed  before  the  altar,  which  it  is 
said  was  spattered  with  his  blood.  The  fierce  young  chief 
then  led  his  band  against  the  several  other  missions  that 
bad  been  established  up  and  down  the  coast  and  in  the  in- 
terior and  very  nearly  exterminated  the  Franciscan  brother- 
hood in  Florida.  Of  course,  summary  vengeance  was  taken 
by  the  Spaniards,  who  burned  villages  and  granaries,  when 
they  could  not  catch  the  marauders  themselves.  The  fate  of 
the  martyred  priests  served  only  to  stimulate  the  missionary 
spirit  among  the  Franciscans,  and  in  a  few  years  there  were 
twenty  prosperous  missions  in  as  many  of  the  principal 
Indian  towns  with  their  headquarters  at  St.  Augustine. 

In  1638  the  Apalachian  Indians  rose  against  the  Spaniards, 
and  many  prisoners  were  brought  to  St.  Augustine  and  set  to 
work  on  the  fortifications.  By  1647  there  were  300  house- 
holders, resident  in  the  city,  and  50  Franciscans  occupied 
the  monastery.  There  was  a  parish  church  with  a  full  staff 
of  ecclesiastics,  and  the  fort  was  rebuilt  on  a  more  secure 
plan.  Menendez  the  Second  had  been  killed  by  Indians,  and 
his  son-in-law,  Hernando  de  Alas,  succeeded  him — the  last 
of  the  Menendez  line. 

Diego  de  Eebellado  was  Captain-General  from  1655  till 
1675  and  during  his  term  of  office  (1665)Cai)tain  John  Davis, 
an  English  freebooter  like  his  predecessor  Drake,  came  up 
from  Jamaica  with  a  fleet  of  seven  small  vessels,  landed 
somewhere  south  of  the  town  and  marched  directly  upon  it 
with  a  force  probably  greatly  superior  to  that  of  the  garrison. 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE.  141 

At  all  events,  the  town  was  sacked,  the  garrison,  two  hundred 
in  number,  apparently  remaining  in  the  fort,  not  being  strong 
enough  to  make  resistance  or  afford  protection.  At  this  time 
the  fort  was  square,  with  bastions,  and  capable  of  a  good  de- 
fence. The  English,  at  any  rate,  seem  to  have  deemed  it  pru- 
dent to  take  themselves  oflf  with  their  plunder  without  at- 
tacking the  fort. 

Don  Juan  Marquez  de  Cabrera  was  appointed  Governor  in 
1681,  and  took  in  hand  energetically  the  work  of  comjjleting 
the  castle  (see  p.  158).  At  this  time  incipient  hostilities 
began  between  the  Spaniards  in  Florida  and  the  English  and 
Scotch  in  Georgia  and  the  Carolinas,  each  side  finding  just 
cause  for  complaint  in  the  encroachments  of  the  other.  In 
1675,  and  again  in  1685,  the  Governor  of  St.  Augustine  sent 
armed  expeditions  against  Port  Royal.  The  second  one  was 
successful,  the  Spaniards  breaking  up  Lord  Oardross'  colony 
and  plundering  plantations  along  the  Edisto  River. 

In  1687  Captain  Juan  de  Aila  brought  from  Spain  the 
first  negro  slave  imported  to  the  colony,  an  event  that  was 
bailed  with  joy  by  the  inhabitants.  Menendez,  it  will  be  re- 
membered was  authorized  to  import  five  hundred  slaves,  but 
he  never  did  it,  and  though  the  Spaniards  did  not  hesitate  to 
enslave  Indians  whenever  convenient,  they  did  not  prove  so 
tractable  as  negroes. 

Under  Don  Diego  de  Quiroga  y  Losada,  in  1690,  the  con- 
struction of  a  sea-wall  was  undertaken  as  a  public  work,  and 
in  the  following  year  substantial  aid  was  received  from  the 
home  government.  This  old  wall  apparently  extended  from 
the  castle  to  the  present  Plaza.  Portions  of  it  were  visible 
along  the  middle  of  Bay  Street  until  about  1860,  and  exca- 
vation, were  it  desirable,  would  no  doubt  reveal  a  consider- 
able i^ortion  of  the  old  structure,  which  the  progress  of  mod- 
ern improvement  has  covered  up  (see  p.  156). 

The  year  1702  saw  war  formally  declared  between  Great 
Britain  and  Spain,  and  James  Moore,  then  Governor  of  South 
Carolina,  a  man  of  energetic  and  warlike  instincts,  organized 
an  expedition  against  St.  Augustine.  The  castle  was  now  in 
shape  to  stand  a  siege,  and  preparations  were  made  accord- 
ingly.    The  inhabitants  removed  their  valuables  within  the 


142  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

walls.  Moore's  attack  was  i)lanned  T)y  land  and  sea,  but  the 
land  forces  under  Colonel  Daniel  arrived  first,  and  occui:)ied 
the  town  without  opposition.  Shortly  afterward  the  fleet  of 
transports  appeared  in  the  offing  and  the  castle  was  com- 
pletely invested. 

The  walls  were  found  to  be  too  strong  for  the  light  ord- 
nance brought  by  Governor  Moore  and  two  different  mes- 
sengers were  sent  to  Jamaica  for  heavier  guns.  The  first 
messenger  proved  inefficient,  but  the  second,  Colonel  Daniel, 
procured  the  guns  and  returned  with  great  expedition.  In 
the  meantime,  however,  two  Spanish  frigates  appeared  in  the 
offing  and  Moore,  thinking  that  Colonel  Daniel  could  not 
now  accomplish  his  mission,  raised  the  siege  and  marched 
home,  abandoning  or  burning  his  ships  and  firing  the  town 
as  he  departed.  When  Colonel  Daniel  returned  with  his  ord- 
nance and  stores  he  narrowly  escaped  capture,  not  know- 
ing that  his  colleagues  had  withdrawn.  The  Carolinians 
carried  home  a  considerable  quantity  of  rich  booty,  includ- 
ing vestments  and  plate  from  the  churches,  and  thus  was  St. 
Augustine  again  forced  to  begin  her  career  over  again.  There 
is  but  small  doubt  that  had  Moore  awaited  Daniel's  return, 
the  castle  would  have  fallen,  for  the  Spanish  frigates  had 
but  two  hundred  men,  who  could  not  have  afforded  substan- 
tial aid.  The  siege  had  lasted  nearly  three  months,  and  the 
beleaguered  garrison  was  glad  to  have  it  end  at  any  cost. 

This  narrow  escaj^e  had  the  eifect  of  inducing  a  more  lib- 
eral policy  on  the  part  of  the  home  government.  Money  and 
men  were  sent  to  complete  and  strengthen  the  fortifications, 
but  in  1712  there  was  nearly  a  famine,  for  the  provision 
ships  failed  to  arrive  and  the  Spanish  colonists  for  some 
reason  had  not  learned  to  make  a  living  by  peaceful  means. 

The  year  1725  found  the  city  with  an  enemy  again  at  her 
gates,  this  time  Colonel  Palmer,  of  South  Carolina.  He  was 
merely  on  a  raid,  however,  and  as  the  city  was  walled  by  this 
time,  he  could  only  destroy  everything  outside  the  gates. 

Seven  years  jiassed.  Another  martial  governor  had  ajj- 
peared  in  the  north,  to  wit,  James  Edward  Oglethorpe,  of 
Georgia.  War  still  existed  between  Great  Britain  and  Spain, 
and  Oglethorpe,  under  instructions  from  the  English  Crown, 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  143 

made  a  descent  upon  St.  Augustine.  The  expedition  was 
orgauized  •with  a  view  to  ending  the  partisan  warfare  that 
had  so  long  subsisted  between  English  and  Spanish  colo- 
nists. Oglethorpe  held  the  king's  commission  as  a  general 
officer;  a  regiment  of  the  line  was  sent  from  England  to 
join  the  expedition,  and  several  hundred  volunteers  were  en- 
rolled among  the  colonists.  Four  20-gun  ships  and  two 
sloops  formed  the  naval  force. 

The  Governor  of  Florida  at  this  time  was  Don  Manuel  de 
Monteano,  an  energetic  and  able  commander,  who  made 
every  effort  to  strengthen  his  jDosition.  The  population  of 
St.  Augustine  was  about  two  thousand.  The  garrison  num- 
bered about  seven  hundred  and  forty  men,  horse,  foot,  and 
artillery.  There  were  fifty  pieces  of  cannon  in  the  castle — 
12-  to  48-pounders.  Don  Antonio  de  An-edondo,  an  able  of- 
ficer of  engineers,  strengthened  the  works,  and  threw  up  in- 
trenchments  around  the  town,  the  remains  of  some  of  which 
are  still  visible. 

Oglethorpe's  forces  rendezvoused  at  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
John's,  May  24,  1739.  Two  Si^anish  forts  on  the  river,  at 
Picolata,  had  already  been  captured. 

About  two  miles  north  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Marks  was  an 
outwork  called  "Negro  Fort,"  or  "Fort  Moosa,"  having  at 
that  time  water  commimication  with  the  castle  through  a 
tidal  creek.  It  was  originally  intended  as  a  shelter  for  plan- 
tation hands  against  the  Indians,  whence  its  name,  but  was 
subsequently  garrisoned  by  the  Spaniards.  The  English 
found  it  deserted,  and  decided  to  destroy  it.  Probably  this 
was  the  resiilt  of  some  misunderstanding,  for  hardly  was  the 
work  begun,  when  it  was  countermanded,  and  Colonel  Palmer 
was  sent  with  133  men  to  hold  the  position. 

On  June  6th,  Colonel  Vanderdusen  arrived  with  the  North 
Carolina  Regiment,  having  marched  down  the  beach  from 
the  St.  John's,  but  it  was  not  until  June  20th  that  the  fleet 
took  position  and  St.  Augustine  was  faiily  invested.  On 
Anastasia  Island,  directly  opposite  the  castle  was  a  battery 
of  four  18-pounders,  and  one  9-pounder.  Two  more  18- 
l^ounders  were  mounted  on  higher  land.  On  San  Matteo,  or 
North  Eiver  Point  were  seven  more  pieces,  and,  according 


144:  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

to  Spanish  accounts,  there  were  thirty-four  mortars  in  posi- 
tion. Tlie  remains  of  the  principal  battery  on  Anastasia 
Island  can  still  be  traced. 

The  town  was  at  once  rendered  untenable  by  the  English 
guns,  and  the  inhabitants  sought  shelter  in  the  fort.  On 
the  night  of  June  25th  a  sortie  in  force  was  made  from  the 
castle,  and  the  insufficient  garrison  at  Fort  Moosa  was  over- 
powered after  a  sharp  fight.  Colonel  Palmer,  the  nominal 
commandant,  had  from  the  first  protested  against  being  left 
with  so  few  men  in  an  exjDosed  position  out  of  reach  of  suc- 
cor, and,  moreover.  Captain  Mcintosh,  commanding  a  High- 
lander detachment  that  formed  part  of  the  garrison,  was  dis- 
posed to  be  insubordinate — facts  which,  taken  in  connection 
with  the  partial  destruction  of  the  fort,  sufficiently  account 
for  its  capture.  Nevertheless,  a  stubborn  resistance  was 
made,  and  two  assaults  were  repulsed.  A  third  was  more 
successful,  and  the  S^janiards  gained  the  interior  of  the  work, 
where  their  superior  numbers  soon  compelled  submission. 
A  few  of  the  garrison  cut  their  way  out  and  escaped  to  the 
English  lines,  but  Colonel  Palmer  was  killed,  fighting  to 
the  last.  Captain  Mcintosh,  with  about  twenty  of  his  men, 
was  captured  and  taken  to  Spain. 

After  this  hostilities  consisted  mainly  of  an  artillery  duel 
between  the  castle  and  the  batteries,  resulting  in  small 
damage  to  either  side.  The  walls  of  the  old  fort  still  bear 
marks  of  shot  and  shell,  but  the  range  was  too  great  for 
the  ordnance  of  that  period  ;  the  missiles  merely  imbedded 
themselves  harmlessly  in  the  coquina  ramparts. 

Oglethorpe,  indeed,  counted  upon  starvation  to  compel  sur- 
render, and  his  hopes  might  probably  have  been  realized, 
but  for  the  unaccountable  omission  to  guard  Mosquito  and 
Matanzas  Inlets,  thus  leaving  the  authorities  at  Havana  free 
to  send  supplies  in  resjionse  to  Monteano's  apjieals  for  aid. 
There  is  some  doubt  as  to  whether  the  siege  was  raised  be- 
fore or  after  the  wants  of  the  garrison  were  relieved.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  Oglethorpe  and  his  officers  believed  that  sup- 
plies had  been  received,  and  were  satisfied  early  in  July  that 
it  was  useless  to  protract  the  siege  with  the  means  at  hand. 
On  the  lOtli  of  that  month,  therefore,  the  little  army  crossed 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  145 

the  river,  and  paraded — drums  beating  and  colors  flying — 
"within  sight  of  the  castle,  in  the  vain  hope  that  the  Span- 
iards would  come  out  and  fight  in  the  open.  Monteano  very 
properly  and  prudently  declined  this  challenge,  and  so,  after 
a  month  of  siege,  "  La  siempre  Jiel  Ciiidad  de  San  Augustln  " 
was  once  more  left  to  her  balmy  sea-breezes,  with  the  flag 
of  Sixain  floating  above  her  ramparts. 

Great  credit  is  due  to  the  courage,  fortitude,  and  ready  re- 
source displayed  by  Governor  Monteano  during  this  siege. 

Early  in  the  .siDring  of  1742  St.  Augustine  was  the  centre  of 
vigorous  preparations  for  a  retaliatory  exi^edition.  A  fleet 
of  thirty  vessels  gathered  in  the  harbor  and  outside  the  bar, 
and,  about  July  1st,  sailed  with  Monteano  in  command  to 
carry  the  war  into  Oglethorpe's  own  territory.  Barring  some 
temporary  successes  the  expedition  was  a  failure. 

In  March,  171.3,  Oglethorpe  was  again  before  the  city 
gates,  and  so  swiftly  did  he  come  that  his  Indian  scouts 
overtook  and  slew  a  number  of  Spanish  soldiers  (forty  ac- 
cording to  Oglethorpe's  report)  under  the  very  walls  of  the 
castle. 

Oglethorpe  was  merely  engaged  in  a  foray,  however,  and 
after  seeking  in  vain  to  induce  the  garrison  to  come  out  and 
fight,  he  returned  as  quickly  as  he  came. 

Don  Alonzo  Fernandez  de  Herrara  was  appointed  Gover- 
nor in  1755.  Under  his  administration  the  castle  was  com- 
pleted as  it  now  stands,  all  save  the  water  battery,  which  is  of 
modern  construction. 

After  a  tacit  suspension  of  hostilities  a  treaty  was  ratified 
whereby  Florida  passed  into  the  hands  of  Great  Britain,  and 
in  176.3  the  Cross  of  St.  George  at  last  took  the  place  of  the 
Spanish  lion  on  the  flagstaff  of  the  castle. 

With  English  rule  came  an  abrupt  change  of  ijolicy.  The 
population  of  the  city  had,  until  now  been  semi-military, 
largely  under  pay  from  the  crown,  and  correspondingly  idle 
and  worthless.  Nothing  whatever  had  been  done  to  dis- 
cover or  develop  the  resources  of  the  country.  No  sooner, 
however,  had  the  English  taken  possession  than  they  began 
to  encourage  immigration  by  publishing  accounts  of  the  soil 
and  climate  which   were  quite  as  trustworthy  as   some  of 


146  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

more  recent  date  and  finer  typography.  Stork's  map  of  the 
city  (1752)  is  very  minute,  showing  every  lot  and  alleyway  in 
detail.  Under  the  English  flag  the  Castle  of  St.  Mark  be- 
came St.  John's  Fort. 

To  the  Spanish  residents  the  change  of  flags  was  unendur- 
able, and  nearly  all  of  them  emigrated  at  short  notice,  not- 
withstanding civil  and  religious  liberty  was  guaranteed  by 
the  terms  of  the  treaty.  Such  was  their  malicious  temper 
that  the  commandant  of  the  post.  Major  Ogilvie,  had  much 
ado  to  keep  them  from  destroying  their  houses.  Even  the 
outgoing  Governor  uprooted  and  destroyed  the  fine  garden 
of  the  official  residence. 

During  the  night  of  January  2,  1766,  the  mercury  fell  to 
20^  and,  for  the  first  time  on  record,  lime,  citron,  and  ba- 
nana trees  were  killed  in  St.  Augustine. 

In  the  manuscript  of  John  Gerard  Williams  de  Brahm,  in 
the  collection  of  Harvard  University,  it  appears  that  the 
number  of  inhabitants  of  St.  Augustine  and  vicinity  was  288 
householders  (144  of  them  married),  and  upward  of  900  ne- 
groes. The  coquina  lighthouse,  constructed  by  the  Span- 
iards on  Anastasia  Island,  was  surmounted  in  1769  by  a 
wooden  superstructure,  sixty  feet  high,  from  which  a  system 
of  signals  was  displayed  for  the  benefit  of  mariners. 

The  first  English  Governor  was  Lieutenant-Colonel  James 
Grant,  of  the  Fortieth  foot.  He  was  appointed  in  1760,  and  in- 
augurated many  wise  measures  for  the  improvement  of  the 
town  and  colony.  One  of  his  most  noteworthy  undertakings 
was  the  construction  of  public  highways  leading  north  and 
south  from  St.  Augustine.  In  spite  of  the  neglect  of  suc- 
ceeding generations  these  roads  are  still  among  the  best  in 
the  country.  During  his  governorship  he  led  two  consider- 
able expeditions,  the  first  against  rebellious  North  Carolin- 
ians, and  the  second  against  the  Cherokee  Indians.  Siibse- 
quently  he  was  promoted  general  for  services  in  the  Koyal 
Army  during  the  war  for  American  Independence. 

Governor  Grant  retired  iu  1771  and  was  succeeded  by 
Governor  Moultrie,  a  brother  of  him  who  was  afterward  a 
leader  in  the  Kevolutionary  War.  His  administration  of 
aftairs  was  somewhat  stormy,  and  in  1774  he  was  succeeded 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  147 

by  Governor  Tonyn,  who  came  out  from  England  for  the  pur- 
pose. In  the  meantime  the  northern  colonies  had  revolted, 
and  one  of  the  first  acts  of  the  new  Governor  was  to  issue 
a  proclamation  inviting  the  loyalists  of  Georgia  and  the 
Carolinas  to  Florida,  assuring  them  protection  and  immunity 
from  rebel  raids.  As  a  result  the  poj)ulation  of  St.  Augus- 
tine and  vicinity  was  largely  increased. 

The  sentiment  of  the  town  was  intensely  loyalist,  and  when 
news  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  received, 
Adams  and  Hancock  were  burned  in  eflfigy  in  the  Plaza  where 
the  monument  now  stands. 

In  August,  1775,  there  were  several  British  cruisers  at 
anchor  inside  the  bar  and  a  considerable  garrison  in  the  fort, 
for  St.  Augustine  was  a  convenient  station  for  military  and 
naval  ojierations.  A  powder-laden  vessel  from  London, 
named  the  Betsy,  lay  off  the  bar  waiting  a  favorable  tide  to 
run  in.  She  was  discovered  by  an  enterprising  American 
privateer  from  Carolina  and  captured  under  the  very  eyes  of 
fleet  and  gaiiison.  To  one  who  knows  this  coast  such  an  oc- 
currence is  easily  explained.  An  easterly  wind  in  connection 
with  a  heavy  swell  on  the  bar  or  a  flood  tide  would  render  a 
rescue  out  of  the  question,  by  anything  save  a  fleet  of  steam 
launches — i^erhaps  not  even  by  them.  The  impotent  wrath 
of  the  local  royalists  may  be  imagined. 

In  1778,  the  British  garrison  being  small,  much  anxiety 
was  caused  in  the  royalist  city  by  the  organization  of  an 
American  expedition  for  its  capture.  The  plan  was  aban- 
doned for  some  reason,  and  St.  Augustine  saw  nothing  of 
the  "  rebels."  A  successful  British  expedition  against  Sa- 
vannah, Ga.,  was  organized  under  General  Prevost  at  St. 
Augustine  in  1778,  making  the  town  gay  for  a  time  with 
scarlet  uniforms  on  shore  and  a  fleet  of  transports  in  the 
harbor. 

After  the  capture  of  Charleston,  S.  C,  by  the  British  in 
1780,  sixty-one  prominent  citizens  of  the  place  were  seized 
for  their  rebellious  sentiments  and  brought  to  St.  Augustine 
as  prisoners  of  war  and  hostages. 

The  nominally  full  list  as  published  in  Fairbanks'  "  History  " 
is  as  follows,  and  is  reproduced  here  as  of  interest  from  the 


148 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 


many  prominent  family  names  that  it  contains.  The  number 
it  will  be  be  noticed  falls  four  short  of  the  alleged  total : 


John  J.  Budd. 
Edward  Blake. 
Joseph  Bee. 
Richard  Beresford. 
John  Berwick. 
D.  Bordeaux. 
Robert  Cochrane. 
Benjamin  Oudworth. 
H.  V.  Crouch. 
I.  S.  Cripps. 
Edward  Darrell. 
Daniel  Dessaussure. 
John  Edwards. 
George  Flagg. 
Thomas  Ferguson. 
General  A.  C.  Gadsden. 
William  Hazel  Gibbs. 
Thomas  Grinball. 
William  Hall. 
George  A.  Hall. 
Isaac  Holmes. 
Thomas  Heyward,  jr. 
Richard  Hutson. 
Colonel  Isaacs. 
Noble  Wimberly  Jones. 
William  Johnstone. 
William  Lee. 
Richard  Lushington. 

Morton 


William  Logan. 
Rev.  John  Lewis. 
William  Massey. 
Alexander  Moultrie. 
Arthur  Middleton. 
Edward  McCready. 
John  Mouatt. 
Edward  North. 
John  Neufville. 
Joseph  Parker. 
Christoiiher  Peters. 
Benjamin  Postell. 
Samuel  Prioleau. 
John  Earnest  Poyas. 
General  Rutherford. 
Edward  Rutledge. 
Hugh  Rutledge. 
John  Sansom. 
Thomas  Savage. 
Josiah  Smith. 
Thomas  Singleton. 
James  Hampden  Thompson. 
John  Todd. 
Peter  Timothy. 
Anthony  Toomer. 
Edward  Weyman. 
James  Wakefield. 
Benjamin  Waller. 
Wilkinson. 


The  Governor,  Patrick  Tonyn,  as  shown  by  an  oflScial 
letter  to  Lord  St.  Germain,  sought  "  to  have  them  treated 
with  great  contempt,  and  to  have  any  friendly  intercourse 
with  them  is  considered  as  a  mark  of  disresjiect  to  his 
Majesty  and  displeasing  to  me."  Nevertheless,  these  jjesti- 
lent  rebels  appear  to  have  made  friends,  and  increased  the 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  149 

number  of  the  disaflfected  even  in  St.  Augustine  itself. 
They  were  in  custody  for  nearly  a  year,  and  were  then  sent  to 
Philadelphia  to  be  exchanged. 

About  this  time,  1780,  the  policy  of  evacuating  East  Flor- 
ida altogether  began  to  be  agitated,  and  an  order  to  this  ef- 
fect was  actually  issued  by  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  but  subse- 
quently revoked.  The  province  had,  in  fact,  grown  wonder- 
fully under  British  rule.  The  exports  of  East  Florida  (that 
is,  of  St.  Augustine)  amounted  in  1768  to  £14,078,  in  1778 
to  £48,236.  In  1781,  owing  largely  to  the  Eevolutionary  War, 
they  fell  to  £30,715.  St.  Augustine  had  been  a  considerable 
port  of  entry  for  coastwise  and  foreign  traffic,  and  every- 
thing pointed  to  a  prosperous  future,  when,  after  the  Inde- 
pendence of  the  United  States  was  recognized,  the  British 
Government,  on  September  3,  1783,  re-ceded  Florida  to 
Spain,  with  the  very  unsatisfactory  stijDulation  that  the 
English  inhabitants  might  have  eighteen  months  of  grace 
wherein  to  sell  out  their  property,  or  move  their  effects.  Al- 
most to  a  man  the  English  settlers  decided  to  emigi-ate,  but 
they  did  so  under  great  hardship  and  loss,  having  been  in- 
duced to  settle  in  Florida  by  liberal  grants  of  land. 

During  the  British  occupation  St.  Augustine  became  the 
centre  of  a  rather  select  society.  Among  the  residents,  of- 
ficial and  otherwise,  were  Sir  Charles  Burdett,  Chief  Justice 
Drayton,  the  Rev.  John  Forbes,  General  James  Grant, 
Lieutenant-Governor  Moultrie,  William  Stark,  the  historian, 
the  Rev.  N.  Frazer,  Dr.  Andrew  TurnbuU,  Bernard  Romans, 
Esq.,  civil  engineer,  James  Moultrie,  Esq.,  and  William 
Bartram,  Esq.,  the  Quaker  naturalist  and  author.  Bar- 
racks capable  of  containing  five  regiments  were  erected 
south  of  the  present  town,  and  the  old  city  within  its  gray 
coquina  walls  must  have  been  a  very  pleasant  place  of  resi- 
dence. 

The  wonderful  productiveness  of  "Florida  sand"  had 
been  promptly  discovered  by  English  gardeners,  and  to  this 
day  evidences  of  their  thrift  and  energy  are  aj^parent,  not 
only  in  the  city  itself  but  wherever  the  land  was  exception- 
ally good  within  a  reasonable  distance  from  the  coast. 

In  June,  1784,    the  new  Spanish  governor,  Zespedez   by 


150  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

name,  took  possession,  and  again  after  twenty  years'  absence 
the  banner  of  Spain  floated  over  the  castle  walls.  This 
transfer  inaugurated  what  was  perhaps  the  most  idyllic  ye- 
riod  of  the  city's  history.  The  world  went  on  fighting  as 
usual,  but  St.  Augustine  had  ceased  to  be  a  bone  of  conten- 
tion. The  young  republic  to  the  northward  was  some- 
what aggressive,  it  is  true,  but  the  new  order  of  things 
did  not  for  a  generation  intimately  affect  the  old  city. 
Under  the  wise  and  temperate  government  of  Don  Enrique 
White  a  somewhat  unique  Spanish  community  appears 
to  have  developed.  Music,  dancing,  civil  and  ecclesiastical 
feasts,  and  all  the  light  amusements  dear  to  the  Latin  heart, 
were  celebrated  during  the  genial  winter  months  and  the 
city  was  a  veritable  bower  of  tropical  vegetation,  with  naiTow, 
paved' streets  lined  with  cool  gray  coquiiia- walled  houses. 
Within  the  gates  no  hoof  of  horse  ever  sounded.  Those  who 
could  afford  to  ride  rode  in  palanquins. 

In  1792  the  city  suffered  an  irreparable  loss  in  the  biirn- 
ing  of  the  British  barracks — five  large  brick  buildings  that 
stood  to  the  southward  of  the  town. 

In  a  most  entertaining  volume,  entitled  "  A  Voyage  to  the 
Spanish  Main"  (London,  1819),  "An  English  Gentleman," 
whose  name  has  never  come  to  light,  gives  a  charming  pic- 
ture of  the  city  and  its  manners  and  customs  at  the  time  of 
his  visit  (1817),  albeit  that  was  almost  the  beginning  of  the 
end. 

The  second  war  between  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain  (1812-1814)  indicated  unmistakably  the  manifest 
destiny  of  Florida.  The  young  republic  had  acquired  by 
purchase  from  France  all  the  surrounding  territory.  An 
American,  or  "  patriot  "  party  was  growing  in  strength,  even 
under  Spanish  rule,  and  marauders,  too  often  aided  and 
abetted  by  United  States  officials,  rendered  life  and  property 
insecure. 

Negotiations  followed  between  the  governments  at  Wash- 
ington and  Madrid,  and  as  the  result  of  a  treaty  ratified  in 
February,  1821,  the  Spanish  flag  was  lowered  on  July  10th 
of  that  year  and  the  stars  and  strii^es  rose  in  its  place. 
European   residents  in   St.  Augustine   had  already  spread 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  151 

the  fame  of  her  climate,  and  no  sooner  was  the  State  fairly  in 
the  Union  than  invalids  began  to  flock  thither  during  the 
winter  months. 

The  facilities  for  travel  were,  however,  so  inferior  in  those 
days  that,  until  the  establishment  of  coastwise  steamboat 
routes,  about  1827,  no  one  foresaw  the  coming  importance 
of  the  modern  winter  resort.  For  fifteen  years  St.  Augus- 
tine enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  but  in  1835  the  Seminole 
War  broke  out,  and  she  was  again  an  important  centre  of  mil- 
itary preparations.  During  this  period  great  prosperity 
prevailed,  stimulated,  of  course,  by  the  fictitious  values  in- 
duced by  Government  contracts.  War  parties  of  Indians 
prowled  under  the  veiy  walls,  and  many  massacres  occurred 
in  the  vicinity. 

In  Februaiw,  1835,  the  mercury  fell  to  7°  F. ,  a  jioint  that 
has  never  been  touched  since.  Even  the  wild  orange-trees 
were  killed  to  the  ground. 

Hostilities  continued,  with  more  or  less  danger  to  the  in- 
habitants of  the  city,  until  1842,  when  the  Indians  were  finally 
subjugated  in  this  vicinity  or  driven  far  to  the  southward 
among  the  everglades.  From  this  time  may  be  dated  St. 
Augustine's  prosperity  as  a  resort  for  invalids  and  tourists, 
a  prosperity  that  was  not  seriously  interrupted  until  the 
winter  of  1860,  when  the  indications  of  coming  civil  war  be- 
tween the  States  became  so  marked  that  Northern  invalids 
dared  not  risk  their  usual  flight  to  the  South. 

Secession  found  Fort  Marion  in  charge  of  Ordnance  Ser- 
geant Douglas,  U.  S.  A.,  and,  like  many  another  of  his  fel- 
lows about  this  time,  he  was  confronted  on  January  7,  1861, 
by  a  company  of  volunteers  under  orders  from  the  Gov- 
ernor of  the  State,  demanding  a  surrender  of  his  chai-ge. 
He  Jiad  no  choice  bui  to  comply,  although  he  required  a  re- 
ceipt for  all  property  from  the  Governor's  aide.  By  this 
prompt  action,  prior  by  three  days,  indeed,  to  the  passage  of 
the  Ordnance  of  Secession,  the  State,  and  subsequently  the 
Confederacy,  secured  6  field  batteries  of  four  guns  each,  20 
sea-coast  and  garrison  cannon,  31  foreign  guns  of  various 
calibres,  and  a  quantity  of  small  arms  and  ammunition. 
The  United  States  ensign  was  pulled  down,   not  without 


152  .SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

some  unspoken  misgivings  on  the  part  of  the  more  thought- 
ful spectators,  and  for  more  than  a  year  tlie  '■  stars  and 
bars  "  floated  at  the  flagstaff. 

On  March  11,  1862,  the  United  States  gunboat  Huron, 
Commander  C.  P.  E.  Rogers,  appeared  in  the  offing,  crossed 
the  bar  with  some  difficulty,  and  approached  the  city  under 
a  flag  of  truce,  as  had  been  directed  by  Commodore  Duijont. 
A  white  flag  was  soon  hoisted  on  Fort  Marion.  Uj^on  this 
Commander  Rogers  went  ashore  with  an  unarmed  crew  and 
was  received  by  the  Mayor  and  City  Council,  who  informed 
him  that  the  small  Confederate  garrison  of  two  companies 
had  evacuated  the  fort  during  the  night.  The  guns  of  the 
foi't  were  not  spiked,  and  on  recommendation  of  Commander 
Rogers  the  Mayor  had  the  national  ensign  hoisted  on  the 
fort.  The  whole  affair  was  conducted  with  courtesy  on 
both  sides,  and  an  adequate  garrison  of  United  States  troops 
was  soon  landed  to  take  permanent  possession.  About  one 
thousand  five  hundred  of  the  inhabitants  remained  in  the 
city,  some  five  hundred  having  fled  when  it  became  evident 
that  no  defence  would  be  made.  On  the  evening  before  the 
arrival  of  the  gunboats  a  number  of  women  cut  down  the 
flagstaff  in  front  of  the  United  States  barracks,  in  order  to 
delay  the  hoisting  of  the  national  colors.  This  appears  to 
have  been  the  only  overt  act  of  hostility  that  was  jiermitted 
bv  he  cooler  headed  of  the  inhabitants,  who  well  knew  the 
futility  of  resistance  under  the  circumstances. 

Shortly  after  the  Federal  garrison  had  taken  possession,  a 
detail  of  the  Tenth  Connecticut  Regiment  was  attacked  by 
a  squadron  of  Confederate  cavalry,  while  acting  as  guards 
for  a  party  of  wood-cutters.  The  attacking  party  made  a 
dash  for  the  teams  of  the  wood-cutters,  but  were  driven  off 
after  a  shaip  skirmish.  Three  of  the  Connecticut  men  were 
killed  and  their  commanding  officer,  Lieutenant  Brown,  was 
fatally  wounded. 

During  the  remaining  years  of  the  Civil  "VTar  St.  Augustine 
was  merely  a  quiet  gaii-ison  town  under  martial  law,  with 
the  avenues  of  approach  duly  guarded  and  gunboats  often  at 
anchor  inside  the  bar.  The  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  like  the 
Spaniards  and  the  English  who  preceded  them  in  former 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE.  153 

wars,  enjoyed  such  excellent  health  that  the  sick  list  proved 
a  telling  advertisement  for  the  healthfulness  of  the  climate. 

No  sooner  were  hostilities  over  than  inquiries  began  to 
arrive  from  the  North  as  to  hotel  accommodations  for  the 
coming  winter,  and  very  soon  the  sound  of  preparation 
was  heard.  New  hotels  were  built,  largely  with  Northern 
capital,  new  and  unfamiliar  Paris  fashions  appeared  with 
early  winter  along  the  sea-wall,  and  the  old  Spanish  city  en- 
tered upon  a  career  of  prosperity  which  soon  surpassed  her 
wildest  dreams. 


Description. 

The  city  of  St.  Augustine  stands  near  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  a  peninsula  formed  by  the  Matanzas  and  San  Se- 
bastian Rivers.  The  land  is  in  the  main  level,  low  in  some 
places,  and  where  not  cultivated  is  covered  with  the  beach 
scrub  common  to  this  vicinity.  The  land  approaches  to 
St.  Augustine  are  by  no  means  inviting,  as  all  three  of  the 
railroad  lines  thread  miles  of  fiat  woods  and  cross  other  miles 
of  prairie  before  the  towers  and  sj^ires  of  the  city  can  be 
seen.  Carriages  and  hotel  stages  are  always  in  waiting  at 
the  station,  and  the  drive  to  the  city,  about  three-quarters  of 
a  mile,  is  over  a  delightfully  smooth  asphalt  pavement.  A 
wide  range  of  choice  is  offered  in  the  matter  of  hotels  and 
boarding-houses. 

Tlte  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  and  its  surroundings  form  the 
nucleus  of  the  city.  This  public  square  was  established 
when  the  town  was  originally  laid  out.  Its  dimensions  are 
very  modest,  though  the  narrowness  of  the  adjacent  streets 
lend  it,  by  contrast,  some  apparent  extent.  Standing  on  the 
sea-wall  and  facing  eastward,  one  looks  across  Matanzas 
Eiver,  three-qiiarters  of  a  mile,  to  Anastasia  Island  with  its 
spiral  striped  lighthouse,  its  wharf  and  miniature  railroad 
train,  scrab-palmetto  and  bushes.  To  the  left  the  land 
drops  away  to  a  beach,  where  Sir  Francis  Drake  posted  a 
gun  one  evening  in  3586  and  pounded  away,  as  the  sun  went 
down,  at  the  grim  old  fortress  opposite.  Beyond  the  i:)oint 
is  St.    Augustine  Inlet,  La  Riviere  des  Dauphines  as   the 


ST.   AUGUSTINE— MAP  OF   HARBOR  AND  BEACHES. 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE.  155 

French  Huguenot  Laudonniere  named  it  before  the  Span- 
iards set  foot  on  its  shores.  Beyond  this  again  is  North 
Beach  and  the  Toloniato  Eiver.  To  the  right  Matanzas 
Eiver  and  the  shores  of  Anastasia  Island  disappear  in  the 
distance. 

Turning  westward  toward  the  Plaza  we  face  the  pretty 
stretch  of  greensward  with  its  shade  trees.  Almost  opposite, 
in  the  foreground,  is  the  "Old  Slave  Market,"  popularly  so 
called,  though  in  reality  the  original  structure  was  a  provis- 
ion market,  built  in  1840,  and  used  as  such  until  the  city 
outgrew  its  accommodations.  The  roof  and  woodwork  were 
burned  in  1887,  but  the  structure  was  subsequently  rebuilt 
and  serves  mainly  as  a  lounging-place.  Originally  the  square 
was  probably  designed  as  a  parade-ground,  and  as  such  it 
was  certainly  used  by  the  British  and  by  the  United  States 
troops  during  the  Civil  War. 

The  white  coquina  monument  surmounted  by  a  cannon- 
ball  commemorates  the  adoption  by  the  Spanish  Cortez  in 
1812  of  a  new  constitution,  whence  the  Plaza  takes  its  of- 
ficial name.  The  monument  was  erected  in  1813.  The  in- 
scription translated  reads  as  follows  : 

"  Plaza  of  the  Constitution  jDromulgated  in  the  city  of  St. 
Augustine,  in  East  Florida,  on  the  17th  day  of  October,  in 
the  year  1812;  the  Brigadier  Don  Sebastian  Kindalem, 
Knight  of  the  Order  of  Santiago,  being  Governor.  For  eter- 
nal remembrance  the  Constitutional  City  Council  erected 
this  monument,  under  the  superintendence  of  Don  Fernando 
de  la  Maza  Arredondo,  the  young  municipal  officer,  oldest 
member  of  the  corporation,  and  Don  Francisco  Robira,  At- 
torney and  Eecorder.     In  the  year  1813." 

In  1814  Ferdinand  VII.  was  recalled  to  the  Spanish  throne, 
and  straightway  repudiating  his  pledge  to  support  the 
new  "  constitucion  "  ordered  all  the  commemorative  mon- 
uments that  had  been  erected  to  be  torn  down.  Alone,  it  is 
believed,  the  far-away  province  of  Florida  neglected  to  obey 
the  royal  behest.  The  tablets  were  removed  as  a  salve  to 
loyal  consciences,  but  in  1818  they  were  replaced  and  so  the 
monument  fortunately  survives  as  a  curious  memento  of  the 
past. 


156  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

The  other  monument  tinder  the  trees  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Plaza  commemorates  the  Confederate  dead  of  St.  Augu.s- 
tine.  One  face  bears  tliis  inscription  :  "  Our  Dead.  Erected 
by  the  Ladies'  Memorial  Association  of  St.  Augustine,  Fla., 
A.D.  1872."  The  second  :  "In  Memoriam.  Our  loved  ones 
who  gave  their  lives  in  the  service  of  the  Confederate  States." 
On  the  third  face  :  "  They  died  far  from  the  Lome  that  gave 
them  birth."  And  the  fourth  :  "  They  have  crossed  the  river 
and  rest  under  the  shade  of  the  trees."  The  shaft  is  of  co- 
quiua. 

The  Plaza  has  always  been,  and  is  still  the  scene  of  public 
meetings.  Here  the  men-at-arms  gathered  when  the  alarm 
gnn  was  fired  in  the  old  days  of  the  French,  English,  and 
American  Wars.  Here  in  1776  the  royalists  burned  Adams 
and  Hancock  in  effigy,  when  the  news,  a  fortnight  or  more 
old,  came  from  distant  Philadelphia  that  the  Declaration  of 
Indejjendence  had  been  signed.  Here  the  Florida  Vol- 
unteers fell  in  on  a  January  morning  of  1861  and  marched  to 
take  possession  of  Fort  Marion,  and  thence  subsequently 
they  marched  away  to  four  years  of  fratricidal  war  and  final 
defeat.  And  here,  finally,  after  peace  was  restored,  the  Dec- 
laration of  Independence  was  read  before  a  mass  meeting  of 
approving  citizens.  On  the  right,  or  north  side  of  the  Plaza 
is  St.  Joseph's  Cathedral,  built  under  Spanish  rule  and 
finished  in  1701.  It  was  burned  in  1887,  and  immediately 
rebuilt,  enlarged,  and  most  tastefully  improved  by  Messrs. 
Carriere  &  Hastings,  architects.  Thus  the  cathedral  could 
not,  even  had  it  escaped  the  flames,  have  claimed  a  remote 
antiquity,  even  in  the  American  acceptation  of  the  term.  Its 
predecessor,  however,  dated  back  to  1682  or  thereabout,  one 
of  the  old  bells,  still  preserved,  bearing  that  date  and  the 
legen  d  Sancte — Joseph — Ora — Pro — Nobis. 

On  the  left  is  the  modest  spire  of  Trinity  Church,  episco- 
palian, and  beyond  are  the  post-office,  and  the  towers  of  the 
great  Ponce  de  Leon  and  Cordova  hotels.  To  the  north  and 
south  at  either  hand  stretches  the  sea-wall,  terminated  at  the 
south  by  the  United  States  Barracks  and  at  the  north  by 
Fort  Marion. 

The  Sea-  Wall.     Some  protection  against  the  inroads  of  the 


sTIKE. 


.  San  Marco  Hotel 

.   Warden's. 

.  Cemetery. 

,  Fori  Marion. 

.  Gateway. 

.  Museum. 

,  Methodist  Church. 

,   Magnolia  Hotel. 

,   Opera  House. 

,  Hernandez  Hotel 

.  Florida  House. 

,  Bath  House. 

,  Court  House. 

.  Yacht  Club. 

.   Bank. 

.  Cathedral. 

Bishop  Moore's. 

Studios. 

Hotel  Ponce  de  Leon. 

Alcazar. 

Hotel  Cordova. 

Post  Office. 

Old  Market. 

Plaza. 

Plaza  Basin. 

Plaza  Hotel 

School. 

Episcopal  Church. 

Lyon  Block. 

Villa  Zorayda. 

Presbyterian  Church. 

Barracks  Basin. 

Parade. 

Barracks. 

Military  Cemetery. 

Water  Park. 

New  Presbyterian  Church. 


HAP  OF  ST.   AUGUSTIME. 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  157 

ocean  became  necessary  as  soon  as  St.  Augnstine  began  to 
consider  itself  a  permanent  place  of  abode.  Easterly  storms 
with  their  accompanying  high  tides  often  drove  the  water  up 
into  the  streets,  and  even  now  the  spray  at  times  flies  over 
the  stone  coping.  The  first  wall  was  begun  in  1690,  under 
the  administration  of  Diego  de  Quiroza  y  Dosada,  who  was 
Governor  at  the  time.  It  extended  from  the  Fort  to  the 
Plaza  and  its  remains  are  not  far  beneath  the  present  sur- 
face of  the  street.  Its  location  and  extent  are  shown  on 
a  map  of  the  town  made  during  British  occupancy.  It  is  of 
record  that  the  Spanish ,  soldiers  voluntarily  contributed 
labor  and  money  to  aid  in  its  construction.  The  present 
wall  was  begun  in  1835  by  the  United  States  Government, 
and  was  finished  in  1842.  It  is  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long, 
built  of  coquiua,  with  a  coping  of  granite  three  feet  wide. 
Tlie  wall  itself  is  ten  feet  above  low-w'ater  mark.  The  cost 
was  about  .$100,000.  There  are  two  breaks  in  the  wall,  af- 
fording access  to  the  water's  edge,  one  opposite  the  Plaza, 
and  the  other  near  the  barracks.  These  breaks  are  protected 
by  out-walls  and  the  basins  are  used  for  loading  and  un- 
loading fish,  fruit,  and  the  other  products  of  sea  and  shore. 
The  Minorcans.  In  the  early  part  of  the  present  century 
the  population  of  the  city  was  largely  made  u^j  of  natives  of 
the  Balearic  Isles,  Minorca  and  Majorca,  lying  in  the  western 
Mediterranean,  ofi"  the  coast  of  Spain.  These  jseople  were 
brought  over  by  Dr.  Andrew  TurnbuU  (see  Route  63),  in 
1790,  with  a  view  to  establishing  a  colony  at  New  Smyrna,  but 
they  revolted  against  the  rule  of  his  agents,  and  most  of  them 
came  to  St.  Augustine,  where,  for  a  generation  they  formed 
a  distinct  class  of  the  population.  A  few  of  their  descend- 
ants remain,  distinguished  by  dark  ej-es,  hair,  and  com- 
j^lexion,  but  for  the  most  jDart  they  have  intermarried  with 
Americans,  and  race  characteristics  have  been  largely  modi- 
fied, or  have  disappeared  altogether. 

Fort  Marion.  Any  of  the  streets  running  north — parallel 
to  the  sea-wall,  that  is — lead  to  this  ancient  fortress,  the  most 
important  and  interesting  of  the  Spanish  relics. 

On  or  near  this  site  Menendez  constructed  a  wooden  fort 


168  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

in  1565,  and  named  it  St.  John  of  the  Pines  (San  Jnan  de 
Pinos).  It  was,  according  to  the  most  trustworthy  accounts, 
octagonal  in  form,  and  mounted  fourteen  brass  cannon.  It 
was  this  fort  that  Sir  Francis  Drake  destroyed  in  1586,  the 
garrison  having  fled  with  but  a  faint  show  of  resistance. 

By  this  time  the  Spaniards  had  discovered  the  valuable 
properties  of  coquina  for  building  pui-jooses,  and  their  sub- 
sequent works  were  of  the  more  durable  and  less  combustible 
material.  Little  is  known  of  the  structure  that  was  threat- 
ened by  Davis,  the  English  buccaneer,  in  1665,  but  its  walls 
were  at  that  time  well  advanced,  having  been  pushed  forward 
by  the  labor  of  Indian  captives  and  convicts  from  Spain  and 
Mexico.  We  have  the  testimony  of  Jonathan  Dickinson,  a 
Philadelphia  Quaker,  who  was  here  in  1695,  that  the  walls 
were  thirty  feet  high  at  that  time.  Seven  years  later  (1702) 
they  were  certainly  far  enough  completed  to  defy  Governor 
Moore,  of  South  Carolina,  and  in  1740  Governor  Oglethorpe, 
of  Georgia,  hammered  away  at  them  for  more  than  a  month 
without  producing  any  j^erceptible  impression. 

The  Spaniards  named  the  fort  San  Marco,  the  English 
changed  the  name  to  St.  John,  and  on  retrocession  to  Sjiain 
in  1783,  San  Marco  was  once  more  recognized.  On  the  ac- 
cession of  the  United  States  the  saints  were  laid  aside,  and 
the  name  of  the  patriot  soldier  of  South  Carolina  was 
adopted  by  the  War  Department. 

The  fort  is  planned  in  accordance  with  the  Vaubau  system 
of  fortification,  which,  x\p  to  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century  was  considered  the  best.  A  plan  of  the  work,  with 
its  outlying  defences  and  the  modern  water  batteries,  is  ap- 
pended. 

Approaching  from  the  direction  of  the  town  the  visitor  as- 
cends a  path  leading  up  what  was  formerly  the  exterior 
slope  of  the  glacis.  The  mass  of  masonry  on  the  left, 
pierced  for  cannon  and  musketry,  is  the  barbican,  an  outwork 
intended  for  the  protection  of  the  weakest  point  in  the  main 
work,  namely,  the  entrance.  An  extension  of  the  moat  in- 
cludes the  barbican,  and  both  moats  are  now  crossed  by 
rough  plank  platforms,  where  once  were  regi;lar  drawbridges. 
On  the  left,  after  passing  the  angle  of  the  barbican,  is  a  niche 


MOAT 


PLAN    OF   FORT   MARION. 

1.  Bridge  from  glacis  to  barbican.  2.  Stairway  to  barbican  parapet.  3. 
Bridge.  4.  Sally-port.  5.  Arched  passage.  6.  Bakery.  7,  8.  Store-rooms. 
9, 10.  Store-rooms.  11.  Bomb-proof.  12.  Chapel.  13.  Store-room.  14.  Treas- 
ure room.  15.  Casemate  from  which  Coacoochee  and  Osceola  escaped.  16, 
17.  Dark  vaults.  18.  Guard-room.  19.  Incliue  to  parapet.  B,  B,  B,  B.  Bast- 
ions, each  with  a  protected  watch-tower,  W,  in  the  salient  angle.  The  spaces 
left  blank  are  ventilated  casemates  designed  for  quarters  and  ±e  like. 


1()0  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

opening  into  a  .stairway,  and  containing,  carved  in  stone, 
the  royal  arms  of  Spain,  which,  in  a  sadly  dilapidated  con- 
dition, barely  survive  the  rough  handling  to  which  they  have 
been  subjected  by  the  elements  all  the  time,  and  by  witless 
vandals  at  intervals,  until  protected  by  an  iron  grating. 

Turning  to  the  right,  another  rude  structure  of  planks 
crosses  tlie  wide  moat  and  leads  to  the  entrance.  Above  this 
again  are  the  arms  of  Spain  with  an  almost  obliterated  in- 
scrii^tion  which,  restored  and  translated,  reads  as  follows : 

EEYNANDO  EN  ESP  ANA  EL  8EN^ 

DON  FERNANDO  SEXTO  Y  SIENDO 

GOV"''  Y  CAP^  DE  ES^  C  S^"  AUG^  DE 

LA  FLORIDA  Y  SUS  PROV^  EL  MARESCAL 

DE  CAMPO  D  ALONZO  FERN^°  HEREDIA 

ASI  CONCLUIO  ESTE  CASTLLO  EL  AN. 

OD  1756  DIRIGIENDO  LAS  OBR. 

CAP  INGN'^"^  DN  PEDRO  DE  BROZAS  Y  GAEAY. 

"Don  Ferdinand  YI.,  being  King  of  Spain,  and  tlie  Field 
Marshal  Don  Alonzo  Fernando  Hereda,  being  Governor  and 
Captain-General  of  this  i3lace,  St.  Augustine,  of  Florida,  and 
its  jirovince.  This  fort  was  finished  in  the  year  1756.  The 
works  were  directed  by  the  Captain-Engineer  Don  Pedro  de 
Brazos  of  Garay." 

This  door  is  provided  with  a  heavy  portculHs,  which  still 
remains  in  jjosition,  though  hardly  in  working  order.  The 
door  or  sally-port  is  barely  wide  enough  for  four  men  to 
march  abreast,  Within  is  a  wide  arched  passage  leading  to 
the  open  parade  inside  the  walls.  On  either  side  of  the 
passage  are  doors  leading  to  the  vaulted  chambers  or  case- 
mates that  surround  the  parade  on  all  sides,  and  served  in 
their  time  as  quarters  for  the  garrison,  as  cells  for  jsrisoners, 
including  American  rebels  during  the  revolution,  and  Indian 
captives  in  more  recent  times. 

The  sergeant  in  charge  of  the  fort  conducts  visitors  through 
the  casemates.  As  this  is  not  part  of  his  regular  duty,  a  fee 
(25c.  for  each  person,  or  one  dollar  for  a  party  of  several)  is 
ctistomarv. 


SAIXT  AUGUSTINE.  161 

On  the  left  of  the  entrance  passage  is  the  guavd-room  and 
on  the  right  is  the  bakery,  through  which  access  is  had  to 
two  dark  vaults,  used,  no  doubt,  for  storage. 

The  terrepleiu,  or  parade,  is  103  by  109  feet,  and  a  broad 
stairway,  formerly  an  inclined  plane  for  the  easier  handling 
of  gun-carriages  and  the  like,  leads  to  the  parapet.  Directly 
opposite  the  entrance  is  the  chapel,  -without  which  no  Span- 
ish fort  of  that  period  was  complete  ;  in  it  are  still  visible 
the  stations  of  shrine  and  altar,  and  other  evidences  of  the 
decoration  customary  in  such  places.  It  was  used  for  re- 
ligious services  as  late  as  1860  or  thereabout,  and  was  turned 
into  a  schoolroom  for  the  Western  Indians  who  were  con- 
fined here  in  1875-78.  The  portico  of  the  chapel  was  orig- 
inally quite  an  elaborate  bit  of  decorative  architecture,  but 
it  has  long  since  disappeared. 

In  1882  a  party  of  French  astronomers  had  the  use  of  the 
fort  as  a  station  to  observe  the  transit  of  Venus,  and  a  tablet 
near  the  chapel-door  commemorates  their  visit.  It  bears 
this  inscription :  "  Plaque  commemorative  du  passage  de 
Venus,  observe  au  Fort  Marion  le  9  Decembre  1882,  par  MM. 
le  Colonel  Perrier,  le  Commandant  Bassat,  le  Capitaine 
Deffoges  de  I'armee  Francaise." 

The  casemates  are  in  the  main  alike,  dark  vaults,  some  of 
them  lofty,  others  divided  into  two  stories,  some  dimly 
lighted  through  narrow  slits  high  up  near  the  ceiling,  others 
totally  dark  save  for  the  entrance-doors. 

That  captives,  red  and  white,  pagan  and  Christian,  have 
pined  away  their  lives  in  more  than  one  of  these  dungeons 
is  extremely  probable  when  it  is  remembered  that  not  so  very 
long  ago  the  rack  and  the  stake  were  instruments  of  nomi- 
nally Christian  offices,  but  no  records  remain,  and  the  imagi- 
nation may  have  full  play  as  regards  most  of  the  casemates. 

Two  of  them,  however,  have  authentic  histories.  In  the 
one  marked  15,  near  the  southwest  bastion,  Coacoochee 
and  Osceola,  two  of  the  most  celebrated  Seminole  chiefs, 
were  confined  during  the  war  that  lasted  from  1835  till  1842. 
After  the  final  subjugation  of  the  tribe  Coacoochee  gave  the 
following  account  of  their  escape  : 

"  We  had  been  growing  sickly  from  day  to  day  and  so  re- 


162  SAINT    AUGU8T1NE. 

solved  to  make  our  escape  or  die  in  the  attempt.  We  were 
in  a  room  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  square.  All  the  light  ad- 
mitted was  through  a  hole  about  eighteen  feet  from  the 
floor.  Through  this  we  must  effect  our  escape,  or  remain 
and  die  with  sickness.  A  sentinel  was  constantly  posted  at 
the  door.  As  we  looked  at  it  from  our  beds,  we  thought  it 
small,  but  believed  tliat,  could  we  get  our  heads  through  we 
should  have  no  further  nor  serious  difficulty.  To  reacli  the 
hole  was  the  first  object.  In  order  to  effect  this  we  from 
time  to  time  cut  up  the  forage-bags  allowed  us  to  sleep  on, 
and  made  them  into  ropes.  The  hole  I  could  not  reach 
when  upon  the  shoulder  of  my  companion  ;  but  while  stand- 
ing upon  his  shoulder,  I  worked  a  knife  into  a  crevice  of 
the  stonework,  as  far  up  as  I  could  reach,  and  upon  this  I 
raised  myself  to  the  opening,  when  I  found  that,  with  some 
reduction  of  person,  I  could  get  through.  In  order  to  re- 
duce ourselves  as  much  as  possible  we  took  medicine  five 
days.  Under  the  pretext  of  being  very  sick,  we  were  per- 
mitted to  obtain  the  roots  we  required.  For  some  weeks  we 
watched  the  moon,  in  order  that  the  night  of  our  attempt  it 
should  be  as  dark  as  possible.  At  the  proper  time  we  com- 
menced the  medicine,  calculating  on  the  entire  disappear- 
ance of  the  moon.  The  keeper  of  this  prison,  on  the  night 
determined  upon  to  make  the  effort,  annoyed  us  by  fre- 
quently coming  into  the  room,  and  talking  and  singing.  At 
first  we  thought  of  tying  him  and  putting  his  liead  in  a  bag, 
so  that,  should  he  call  for  assistance,  he  could  not  be  heard. 
We  first,  however,  tried  the  experiment  of  pretending  to  be 
asleej),  and  when  he  returned  to  pay  no  regard  to  him.  This 
accomplished  our  object.  He  came  in,  and  went  immedi- 
ately out ;  and  we  could  hear  him  snore  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  door.  I  then  took  the  rope,  which  we  had 
secreted  under  our  bed,  and  mounting  ujjon  the  shoulder  of 
my  comrade,  raised  myself  by  the  knife  worked  into  the 
crevices  of  the  stone,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  the  embras- 
ure. Here  I  made  fast  the  rope  that  my  friend  might  fol- 
low me.  I  then  passed  through  the  hole  a  sufficient  length 
of  it  to  reacli  the  ground  upon  the  outside  (about  twenty- 
five  feet)  in  the  ditch.     I  had  calculated  the  distance  when 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  163 

going  for  roots.  "With  much  diificulty  I  siacceeded  iu  get- 
ting my  head  through  ;  for  the  sharp  stones  took  the  skin 
off  my  breast  and  back.  Putting  my  head  through  first  I 
was  obliged  to  go  down  head  foremost,  until  my  feet  were 
througli,  fearing  every  moment  the  rope  would  break.  At 
last,  safely  on  the  ground,  I  awaited  with  anxiety  the  arrival 
of  my  comrade.  I  had  passed  another  rope  through  the 
hole,  which,  in  the  event  of  discovery,  Talmus  Hadjo 
(Osceola),  was  to  pull,  as  a  signal  to  me  from  the  outside, 
that  he  was  discovered,  and  could  not  come.  As  soon  as  I 
struck  the  ground,  I  took  hold  of  the  signal  for  intelligence 
from  my  friend.  The  niglit  was  very  dark.  Two  men 
passed  near  me,  talking  earnestly,  and  I  could  see  them  dis- 
tinctly. Soon  I  heard  the  struggle  of  my  companion  far 
above  me.  He  had  succeeded  in  getting  his  head  through, 
but  his  body  would  come  no  farther.  In  the  lowest  tone  of 
voice,  I  urged  him  to  throw  out  his  breath,  and  then  try ; 
soon  after  he  came  tumbling  down  the  whole  distance.  For 
a  few  moments  I  thought  him  dead.  I  dragged  him  to  some 
water  close  by,  which  restored  him,  but  his  leg  was  so  lame 
he  was  unable  to  walk.  I  took  him  upon  my  shoulder  to  a 
scrub,  near  the  town.  Daylight  was  just  breaking,  it  was 
evident  we  must  move  rapidly.  I  caught  a  mule  in  the  ad- 
joining field,  and  making  a  bridle  out  of  my  sash,  mounted 
my  comj^anion,  and  started  for  the  St.  John's  River.  The 
mule  was  used  one  day,  but  fearing  the  whites  would  track 
us,  we  felt  more  secure  on  foot  in  the  hammock,  though 
moving  very  slow.  Thus  we  continued  our  journey  five 
days,  subsisting  on  roots  and  berries,  when  I  joined  my  band, 
then  assembled  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Tomoka  Eiver, 
near  the  Atlantic  coast." 

Osceola  was  subsequently  recaptured  and  sent  to  Fort 
Moultrie,  Charleston,  S.  C,  where  he  died. 

During  the  years  1875-78  the  fort  was  again  used  as  a 
prison  for  Indians  brought  from  the  far  West.  Their  cap- 
tivity was  nominal  during  good  behavior,  and  some  attempts 
were  made  to  educate  them. 

AVithin  the  northeastern  bastion  is  a  chamber  known  as 
"  the  dungeon,"  though  there  is  good  reason  for  believing 


1(;4  SAINT   AU(;U.ST1NE. 

that  it  was  originally  intended  as  a  magazine.  In  1839  the 
masonry  in  one  of  the  adjacent  vaults  caved  in,  and,  while 
repairs  were  in  progress,  it  was  discovered  that  there  was 
still  another  innermost  chamber,  whose  existence  had  not 
before  been  suspected.  The  wall  was  broken  through,  and, 
among  other  refuse,  some  bones  were  found  so  far  gone  in 
decomposition  that  the  post  surgeon  could  not  determine 
whether  they  were  human  or  not.  The  mmor  spread,  how- 
ever, that  an  entire  skeleton  had  been  found  chained  to  the 
wall,  and  that  implements  were  scattered  about  suggestive  of 
the  "  Holy  Inquisition  "  and  a  chamber  of  hoiTors.  The  tale 
grew  by  repetition  and  for  many  years  it  was  generally  be- 
lieved that  the  dungeon  had  once  been  the  scene  of  a  tragedy. 
The  author  of  the  "Standard  Guide  to  St.  Augustine,"  how- 
ever, cites  the  statement  of  an  old  resident  of  the  city,  who 
w-as  employed  at  the  fort  when  a  boy,  and  remembers  the  old 
disused  magazine  in  the  northeast  bastion.  According  to  this 
account,  during  the  later  days  of  Spanish  occupancy  the  mag- 
azine fell  out  of  repair,  and  became  a  receptacle  for  refuse  of 
all  sorts,  until  finally  it  was  walled  up,  being  regarded  as  a 
menace  to  health.  There  are  still  those  who  insist  that  the 
tragic  accounts  of  the  "  dungeon "  are  the  true  ones,  but 
the  weight  of  evidence  seems  to  be  in  favor  of  the  more  pro- 
saic version. 

Ascending  to  the  parapet,  the  commanding  position  of  the 
fort  is  apparent,  and  the  outlook  in  all  directions  is  very  in- 
teresting. With  the  aid  of  the  map  on  page  159  all  the 
noteworthy  points  of  interest  can  be  traced,  and  many  of  the 
historic  localities  identified. 

In  the  salient  angle  of  each  bastion  is  a  sentry-box  of 
stone,  where  a  man-at-arms  might  be  tolerably  secure  against 
Indian  arrows,  or  even  against  the  firearms  of  the  last 
century ;  on  the  northeastern  bastion,  the  most  exposed  of 
the  four,  the  sentiy-box  has  a  supplementary  story  or  watch- 
tower,  whence  a  still  wider  outlook  may  be  obtained. 

To  the  non-military  visitor,  who  knows  not  the  uses  of  bas- 
tions, their  purpose  will  at  once  become  e%-ident  on  looking 
over  the  parapet.  Soldiers  posted  in  these  projecting  angles 
can,  it  is  easily  seen,  deliver  a  direct  fire  sweeping  the  entire 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  165 

moat  to  autl  bevoud  the  salient  of  the  opposite  bastion. 
Bastioued  works  reached  their  complete  development  under 
the  system  of  Vauban,  one  of  whose  disciples,  Captain 
Pedro  de  Brozas  y  Garay,  was  the  engineer  in  charge  of  the 
construction  of  the  fort. 

It  is  not  likely  that,  even  in  case  of  a  foreign  war,  guns 
will  ever  again  be  mounted  en  barbette  on  Fort  Marion.  Even 
if  the  coquina  masonry  could  sustain  the  weight  of  modern 
ordnance,  it  could  not  long  withstand  the  impact  of  modern 
projectiles.  For  this  reason  the  water-battery  along  the  sea- 
face  was  built  in  1842,  but  the  gun-platforms  were  never 
finished,  and  the  whole  work  is  long  out  of  date.  The  guns 
that  lie  rusting  along  the  glacis  mostly  antedate  the  Civil 
War,  and  are  worthless  save  as  old  iron. 

The  floor  of  the  moat  was  originally  of  cement,  but  it  is 
covered  deep  with  sand  and  soil.  When  the  old  fort  was  in 
fighting  trim  this  moat  could  be  flooded  at  high  tide.  A 
stairway  near  the  barbican  permits  easy  descent  into  the 
moat  for  those  who  do  not  choose  to  jump  or  climb  down 
from  the  crest  of  the  counterscarp.  From  this  level  a  better 
idea  of  the  height  of  the  walls  is  obtained,  and  one  can 
readily  understand  how  Osceola  was  eflfecfcually  disabled  by 
his  fall  from  the  narrow  opening  through  which  he  and 
Coacoochee  squeezed  themselves  in  the  western  face  of  the 
fort. 

Along  the  eastern  or  sea  front  numerous  scars  and  in- 
dentations may  be  seen  in  the  masonry,  some  of  which  were 
made  by  British  guns  during  Oglethorpe's  siege  iu  1740. 
These  respectable  old  wounds  will  readily  be  distinguished 
from  the  ones  that  have  been  inflicted  by  modern  riflemen, 
who  have  at  times  used  the  moat  as  a  shooting-gallery.  The 
use  of  all  firearms  within  the  fort  is  now  very  properly  pro- 
hibited. 

The  small  brick  building  in  the  eastern  moat  is  a  furnace 
to  heat  shot  for  the  water  battery.     It  was  built  iu  1844. 

St.  Francis  Barracks  are  named  from  the  old  Franciscan 
convent,  whose  site  they  occupy.  They  stand  at  the  south- 
ern end  of  Bay  Street.  In  front,  facing  the  water,  are  the 
officers'  quarters,  with  barracks  for  enlisted  men  in  the  rear. 


166  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

Usually  two  compauios  of  regulars  are  in  garrison  at  this 
post.  The  jiarado  in  front  of  the  barracks  is  flanked  on  the 
south  by  the  adjutant's  offices  and  ordnance  sheds,  and  the 
open  space  is  used  as  a  drill-ground  and  for  the  usual 
routine  jjarades  and  insijections  of  the  small  garrison. 

The  old  convent  was  abandoned  for  i-eligious  purposes 
when  the  British  took  possession  in  1763,  and  was  used  as 
bairacks  when  the  Spaniards  returned  twenty  years  after- 
ward. Although  the  buildings  have  been  largely  remodelled 
and  rebuilt,  some  of  the  old  coquina  convent  walls  are  still 
standing,  and  are  believed  to  be  among  the  oldest  structures 
in  the  city.  It  is  singular  that  the  memory  of  St.  Fi-ancis 
should  be  perpetuated  at  one  end  of  the  city,  while  that  of 
St.  Mark  was  obliterated  at  the  other  end  when  the  United 
States  took  possession,  but  such  are  the  inconsistencies  of 
history. 

The  convent  in  its  time  was  the  headquarters  of  missionary 
life  in  Florida.  Thence  the  devoted  priests  went  out  and 
built  their  little  chaj^els  from  the  everglades  to  the  Suwan- 
nee, and  thither,  if  at  all,  they  returned,  often  broken  down 
with  the  labors  and  perils  of  their  voluntary  exile. 

A  few  steps  beyond  the  officers'  quarters  is  the  military 
cemetery,  kept  in  beautiful  order  by  the  garrison,  and  worthy 
of  a  visit  for  its  associations.  Here,  under  three  low  pyra- 
mids of  masonry,  lie  many  of  the  soldiers  who  perished  in 
the  Seminole  War.  Near  by  is  a  shaft  to  the  memory  of 
Major  Dade  and  his  command,  almost  the  first  victims  of  the 
long  and  bloody  war  that  followed. 

The  inscription  reads  :  "  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  the  Of- 
ficers and  Soldiers  killed  in  battle  and  died  on  service  dur- 
ing the  Florida  War.  This  monument  has  been  erected  in 
token  of  respectful  and  affectionate  remembrance  by  their 
comrades  of  all  grades,  and  is  committed  to  the  care  and 
preservation  of  the  garrison  of  St.  Augustine." 

Museums.  CJiKpin's  Musentn,  near  Fort  Marion,  contains 
the  most  considerable  collection  of  relics,  Spanish  and  In- 
dian arms,  armor  and  implements,  and  natural  curiosities  in 
the  State.  The  preserved  specimens  of  birds,  beasts,  fishes, 
and  reptiles  are  numerous. 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  167 

Vender's  Museum,  on  Bay  Street,  a  short  distance  north  of 
the  Plaza,  adds  to  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  cnrios  many 
living  birds,  animals,  and  reptiles.  The  snake-room  is  es- 
pecially worthy  of  a  visit,  and  the  building  in  which  the 
collection  is  kept  is  part  of  the  old  Spanish  prison,  and  some 
of  the  time-worn  interior  fittings  are  still  visible. 

The  St.  August ine  Institute  of  Natural  Science  has  its  col- 
lection in  No.  33  Alcazar  Court ;  hours  2  to  5  p.m.  ;  admis- 
sion free. 

The  Villa  Zorayda.  This  building  faces  the  Alameda 
near  the  great  hotels.  It  was  the  first  specimen  of  mono- 
lithic architecture  in  the  city,  and  was  in  this  sense  the 
pioneer  of  modern  St.  Augustine.  The  credit  is  due  to  Mr. 
Franklin  W.  Smith,  of  Boston,  who  made  the  first  experi- 
ments, forming  a  concrete  with  fine  shells,  Portland  cement, 
and  sand.  "While  in  a  semi-liquid  condition,  the  mixture  is 
poured  into  moulds  made  of  boards,  where  it  quickly  hardens. 
By  setting  up  the  moulds  where  the  walls  of  the  intended 
building  are  to  stand,  the  whole  structure  can  be  solidly 
built  up  by  pouring  in  successive  layers  of  concrete.  When 
finished  in  its  natural  tint,  the  wall  presents  a  slightly  rough 
surface,  cool  gray  in  color,  and  of  a  substance  that  has  thus 
far  ijerfectly  endured  the  test  of  exposure.  While  in  the 
semi-liquid  state  the  cement  readily  takes  any  desired  color, 
and  may  thus  be  adajoted  to  nearly  all  the  requirements  of 
decorative  architecture. 

The  Villa  Zorayda  was  also  the  first  modern  building  to 
be  erected  after  the  Moorish  order.  Over  the  entrance  is  an 
Arabic  inscription,  signifying  "There  is  no  Conqueror  but 
God  " — the  motto  of  Mohammed  Aben  Alahmas,  founder  of 
the  Alhambra.  The  interior  has  the  traditional  open  court 
with  double  galleries,  and  all  is  decorated  in  the  Moorish 
style,  many  of  the  motives  having  been  derived  from  the 
Alhambra  itself,  and  from  other  famous  buildings  of  similar 
design. 

The  Alameda  Hotels.  It  is  not  the  province  of  a  general 
guide-book  to  make  distinctions  in  the  matter  of  hotels,  but 
the  Alameda  grouj^  is  so  remarkable  that  it  seems  no  more 
than  right  that  an  exception  should  be  made.     The  Alameda 


168  SAIXT   AUGUSTINK. 

itself  is  an  open  Plaza  with  asphalt  drives,  footways,  foun- 
tains, and  parterres  of  tropical  plants.  On  the  north  side  is 
the  Ponce  de  Leon,  on  the  south  the  Alcazar,  on  the  east  the 
Cordova,  and  on  the  west  the  Villa  Zorayda.  The  present 
appearance  of  this  Plaza  is  due  to  the  foresight  of  Mr.  Henry 
M.  Flagler  and  to  his  choice  of  architects,  Messrs.  Carrere 
&  Hastings,  of  New  York — neither  could  have  achieved  the 
present  result  without  the  other. 

The  architecture  of  the  Ponce  de  Leon  is  Spanish — not 
Moorish,  as  is  sometimes  erroneously  said.  It  represents  the 
best  school  of  Spanish  art,  and  instead  of  being  a  copy  of  any 
existing  examples  is  the  result  of  conscientious  study  of 
l^rinciples  that  have  made  famous  the  cathedrals,  universi- 
ties, and  palaces  of  classic  Spain. 

The  Ponce  de  Leon  faces  380  feet  on  the  Alameda,  and 
520  feet  on  Cordova  and  Seville  Streets.  The  main  building 
with  its  accessory  portico  surrounds  a  court  150  feet  square, 
with  a  central  fountain  and  carefully  tended  beds  of  flowers. 

On  three  sides  of  the  court  rise  the  arched  galleries,  quaint 
windows,  and  red-tiled  roofs  of  the  main  building,  while 
across  the  fourth  side,  that  toward  the  Alameda,  stretches 
a  roofed  portico,  which  is  in  fact  a  continuation  of  the  main 
lower  galleries.  Above  all  this  rises  the  central  dome,  and 
above  this  again  lofty  square  towers  with  pointed  tinial 
roofs,  shaded  balconies,  and  admirable  decoi'ative  devices  in 
iron  and  terra  cotta. 

To  describe  the  vast  establishment  in  detail  is  impracti- 
cable, but  a  few  words  are  called  for  regarding  the  rotunda 
and  the  dining-hall.  Just  within  the  front  or  main  door- 
way are  the  spacious  vestibule  and  rotunda,  opening  a  fine 
perspective  of  columns,  caryatides  and  rich  decoration,  lead- 
ing by  a  short  flight  of  steps  into  the  diuing-hall  beyond. 
The  pavement  of  the  rotunda  and  its  adjacent  corridors  is  a 
marble  mosaic,  small  fiagments  set  in  cement  and  arranged 
in  tasteful  patterns.     The  wainscot  is  of  Numidiau  marble. 

The  central  dome  or  rotunda  rises  in  four  interior  galler- 
ies, with  arcades  agreeably  varied  in  the  successive  stories. 
The  whole  is  supported  by  four  piers  and  eight  columns  of 
solid  oak,  carved  in  caryatid  figures  of  remarkable  grace  and 


SAIN'T   AUGUSTINE.  16'.' 

beauty.  These  are  arranged  in  groups  of  fours,  standing 
back  to  back,  and  admirably  posed  to  convey  at  once  an  idea 
of  strength  and  lightness. 

The  decorative  standing  figures  painted  on  the  interspaces 
of  the  second  story  are  typical  of  Adventure,  Discovery,  Con- 
quest, and  Civilization.  The  seated  figures  represent  Earth, 
Air,  Fire,  and  Water.  Adventure  wears  an  eagle-crested  hel- 
met with  a  cuirass,  and  holds  a  drawn  sword,  while  behind 
her  a  sheaf  of  arrows  radiate  to  form  a  background.  Dis- 
covery holds  a  globe  in  her  right  hand  and  rests  her  left 
upon  a  tiller,  her  sea-blue  robe  contrasting  with  sails  and 
cordage.  Conquest  is  in  full  panoply  of  mail  with  helmet 
and  red  draperies,  and  the  gleam  of  poniards  in  the  back- 
ground. Civilization  is  clad  in  white,  with  an  open  book 
and  the  symbols  of  Christianity  as  accessories.  Of  the  seat- 
ed figures  Earth  is  in  a  russet  robe  with  fruits  and  flowers 
and  peacocks  of  gorgeous  jDlumage,  while,  by  way  of  con- 
trast, Air  holds  two  eagles  in  leash  and  with  translucent 
draperies  of  pale  blue  seems  the  incarnation  of  airiness  and 
light.  Fire,  auburn-haired  and  clothed  in  red,  stands  amid 
tongues  of  flame  grasping  a  blazing  torch,  with  fire-endur- 
ing salamanders  in  arabesques  around  her.  Water  stands 
uiaon  a  shell  to  which  are  harnessed  sea-horses.  Her  robes 
are  pale  green  and  white,  and  all  the  accessories  are  sugges- 
tive of  the  sea  and  its  mystery. 

The  decoration  of  the  upper  stories  is  less  conspicuous 
until  the  dome  is  reached,  where  Cuj^ids  join  hands  around 
the  lower  rim,  and  the  highest  vault  is  beautifully  modelled 
in  delicate  patterns  of  white  and  gold,  with  armor  and  sails, 
and  eagles  soaring  above  all. 

A  massive  yet  graceful  archway  of  red  Verona  marble,  with 
spandrel  patterns  in  variegated  mosaics,  leads  to  the  great 
dining-hall,  a  room  so  well  proportioned  that  its  noble 
dimensions  are  at  first  hardly  suspected,  and  so  bold  in  de- 
sign and  rich  in  decoration  that,  though  finished  in  1887,  it 
is  already  famous  among  students  of  architectui-e.  The  ex- 
treme dimensions  are  90  by  150  feet,  with  seats  for  800  guests. 
The  central  section  of  the  hall  is  .square,  with  an  arched  or 
semi-cylindrical   ceiling — technically   an    elliptical    barrel- 


170  SAINT  AUGUSTINK. 

vault.  At  the  sides  this  arch  is  suiJi^orted  by  rows  of  oak 
columns,  and  beyond  the  columns  are  spacious  alcoves,  form- 
ing a  jjart  of  the  grand  hall  and  yet  sufficiently  separated 
from  it  to  prevent  the  sense  of  too  great  space,  so  often  a 
characteristic  of  large  dining-rooms.  The  ceilings  of  the 
alcoves  are  comparatively  low,  and  each  is  bounded  at  tlie 
wings  by  great  bay  windows  through  which  tlie  daylight 
streams  in  subdued  radiance,  and  which  at  night  ]-eflect 
gleams  of  blue  and  gold  from  the  electric  globes  overhead. 

The  decorations  of  the  central  arch  will  command  the  at- 
tention of  every  appreciative  visitor.  In  the  spandrels  of 
the  side  arclies  are  the  four  seasons,  duplicated  though  not 
repeated.  Spring  on  one  side  is  sowing  grain,  on  the  other 
she  holds  early  flowers  and  opening  buds.  Summer  on  the 
right  is  in  the  shade  of  trees,  on  the  left  the  grain  and 
sickle  suggest  industry.  One  Autunm  personates  the 
vintage,  the  other  the  harvest,  and  Winter  appears  in  the 
double  role  of  a  woodcutter  and  a  master  of  festivities. 
In  the  semicircular  spaces  over  the  musicians'  galleries  are 
Spanish  ships  in  all  the  glory  of  gala  attire,  and  in  quaint 
letters  on  wall  and  ceiling  are  Spanish  proverbs,  suggestive 
mainly  of  good  cheer  (see  below). 

On  the  ceilings  of  the  alcoves  the  history  of  Florida  is  most 
ingeniously  worked  out  in  a  series  of  what  may  perhaps  be 
termed  conventionalized  Indian  hieroglyphics.  Here  may 
be  found  the  triumphant  caravels  of  Ponce  de  Leon,  the 
wrecked  vessels  of  Narvaez,  the  fleur-de-lis  of  Huguenot 
France,  the  lion  of  Spain,  the  rude  fort  of  the  early  settle- 
ment, the  cross  of  St.  George,  the  naval  bombardments,  the 
sieges,  and  finally  the  American  national  emblems  closing 
the  record  with  the  year  1821. 

A  happier  conception  than  this  picture-written  history  of 
Florida  it  were  hard  indeed  to  find,  and  the  skill  and  in- 
genuity with  which  it  has  been  realized  are  deserving  of  the 
highest  praise.  With  the  aid  of  the  summaries  given  else- 
where almost  every  event  of  considerable  importance  may  be 
found  represented  in  the  beautiful  tracery  of  these  alcoves. 

Inscriptions,  Mottoes,  Etc. — The  various  inscriptions  in 
Latin  and  Spanish  are  interesting,  and  often  perplexing  to 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  171 

vfsitox's.  Many  of  the  shields  bear  simply  the  uames  of  cities 
and  provinces  of  Spain,  and  need  no  translation. 

In  the  court-yard,  near  the  west  entrance,  is  a  terra  cotta 
shield  with  this  inscription  :  Con  lo  que  Sagno  sang  Do- 
31INGO  ADOLECE — What  is  one  man's  meat  is  another  man's 
jjoison  (literally,  "  What  keeps  Sagno  well  makes  Domingo 
sick"). 

At  the  eastern  entrance  :  Oveja  qve  b.vla  bocado  pierde — 
The  sheep  that  bleats  misses  a  bite.  On  the  escutcheons  at 
right  and  left  of  the  entrance  from  court  to  rotunda  :  No  se 
HACEN  TORTILLAS  SIN  KOMPER  HUEVos — You  Can't  make  om- 
elettes without   breaking   eggs ;    Qcien   quando   puede   no 

QUIERE,  QUANDO  QUIERE   NO   PUEDE — He   that  will  UOt  wllCU  he 

may,  may  not  when  he  will. 

BiEN  Venido — Welcome,  is  the  legend  that  greets  the 
visitor  who  enters  from  the  drive-way. 

On  the  first  landing  of  the  steps  leading  from  rotunda  to 
dining-room  is  the  concluding  verse  of  William  Shenstone's 
ode  "  Written  at  an  Inn  at  Henley,"  probably  about  1710 : 

Whoe'er  has  travelled  life's  dull  round, 
Where'er  his  stages  may  have  been, 

May  sigh  to  think  he  still  has  found 
The  warmest  welcome  at  an  inn. 

Over  the  main  entrance  to  the  dining-room  is  a  shield  in- 
scribed :  Justicia  hechobes  contra  Alava  Mal — Alava  dooms 
those  who  strive  against  liei'. 

In  the  dining-room  on  the  west  side  of  the  central  arch 
are  four  Si^anish  proverbs :  A>nGO  viejo  tocino  y  vino 
anejo — An  old  friend  is  both  meat  and  drink  ;  Quien  primero 
LLEGA  esela  calza — First  come  first  served  ;  De  la  mano  a  la 
BOCA  SE  pierde  LA  soPA — There's  many  a  slip  'twixt  the  ciijj 
and  the  lip  (literally,  "  Between  the  hand  and  the  mouth 
the  soup  is  lost  ") ;  El  buen  \t;no  no  ha  sienester  pregonero 
— Good  wine  needs  no  bush. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  arch  are  these  :  Oveja  que  bala 
BOCADO  pierde — The  sheep  that  bleats  misses  a  bite  ;  Re- 
MUDA  DE  PASTURAGE  RACE  BizzEROs  C0RD03 — Change  of  feed 


172  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

makes  fat  cattle ;  Quien  mlcho  abraza  poco  aprieta — He 
who  gias^js  much,  keeps  but  little  ;  Quien  mas  sabe,  mas 
CALLA — Who  knows  most  says  least. 

In  the  west  alcove,  over  and  above  the  arches,  near  the 
bay  windows,  are  shields,  inscribed  for  the  most  part  with 
the  arms,  names,  and  mottoes  of  Spanish  cities.  Here  and 
there  are  legends  as  :  Cadiz — Hercules  dominator  fundator, 
in  recognition  of  the  Phoenician  Hercules,  as  the  fabled 
founder  and  ruler  of  the  ancient  town.  Soria  cabeza  l>e 
ESSORiA  PURA  REMADURA,  a  punning  motto  of  the  town  and 
l^rovince  of  Soria. 

On  the  semicircular  ceiling  of  the  west  alcove  are  four 
signs  of  the  zodiac — Scorpio,  Saggitarius,  Leo,  Virgo,  and 
many  of  the  famous  names  identified  with  the  early  history 
of  Florida. 

The  corresponding  spaces  in  the  eastern  alcove  bear  the 
four  signs,  Pisces,  Aquarius,  Taurus,  Gemini,  with  historical 
names  and  dates  ingeniously  repeated  in  varied  form,  with 
names  and  arms  of  cities,  including  that  of  Huelva,  a  mari- 
time city  in  Spain,  in  Latin  :  Huelva,  et  terr^  custodia 
PORTUS  maris — Huelva,  entrance  of  the  sea  and  guardian  of 
the  land. 

The  frescoes  and  mural  decorations  are  by  Messrs.  Thomas 
Hastings,  George  W.  Maynard,  and  H.  T.  Schladermundt. 

The  whole  building  is  in  keeping  with  the  magnificence 
of  which  a  brief  and  inadequate  description  has  been  at- 
tempted regarding  two  of  the  princij^al  divisions,  but  no  de- 
tailed general  account  can  here  be  given.  The  visitor  should 
not  fail  to  visit  the  tower  and  roof  terraces,  and  permits  can 
be  obtained  at  the  office  to  inspect  the  kitchens,  laundries, 
and  other  domestic  departments. 

Facing  the  Ponce  de  Leon,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Ala- 
meda, is  the  Alcazar,  an  adjunct  of  the  main  hotel,  the  work 
of  the  same  architects,  and  like  it  in  the  Spanish  renaissance 
style.  The  name  is  from  the  Al-Kasr  (House  of  Cpesar),  but 
the  design  is  original  and  wholly  unlike  that  of  the  famous 
Palace  of  Seville.  The  general  plan  embraces  an  interior 
court  with  a  garden  and  fountains,  surrounded  by  open  ar- 
cades, sho^js,  and  offices,  and  a  large  restaurant.     Bev'-:^^! 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  173 

are  magnificent  swimming-baths  of  water  drawn  from  an  ar- 
tesian well,  aerated  to  free  it  from  the  odor  of  sulphur,  and 
turned  at  once  into  the  bath,  where  it  falls  in  a  sheet  of 
beautifully  clear  greenish  water,  exactly  at  the  right  tem- 
perature for  swimming. 

Beyond  the  bath  are  courts  for  tennis  and  croquet,  where 
there  are  yearly  matches  and  toui'naments  of  interest  to  all 
lovers  of  these  games. 

The  lodging-rooms  in  the  Alcazar  are  all  provided  with 
private  baths,  and  are  charged  at  a  fixed  rate,  on  what  is 
termed  in  America  the  "  European  plan."  An  excellent  res- 
taurant is  connected  with  the  establishment,  but  guests  are 
free  to  go  where  they  please  for  meals.  The  Alcazar  is  open 
throughout  the  year. 

The  Hotel  Cordova  (formerly  known  as  the  Casa  Monica) 
was  the  first  of  the  Alameda  group.  Like  its  neighbors,  it 
is  monolithic,  but  its  style  of  architecture  differs  from  theirs 
in  that  it  is  suggestive  of  the  arts  of  war  rather  than  of 
peace.  Its  architect  is  Mr.  F.  W.  Smith,  of  Boston,  to  whom 
is  due  the  credit  of  having  made  the  first  experiments  in  the 
composition  of  coquina  concrete.  The  motives  for  the 
heavy  battlemented  walls  and  towers  are  found  in  the  castles 
of  Moorish  Spain.  The  northern  entrance  is  an  adaptation 
of  the  Puerto  del  Sol  of  Toledo,  and  the  balconies  are  after 
those  said  to  have  originated  in  Seville,  and  known  as 
"  kneeling  balconies."  They  are  said  to  have  been  designed 
by  Michael  Angelo,  for  the  convenience  of  devotees,  who 
desired  to  kneel  during  the  passage  of  religious  in-ocessions. 

The  City  Gates.  All  that  remains  of  the  ancient  defences 
of  St.  Augustine  stands  at  the  head  of  St.  George  Street ; 
two  solid,  square  posts — for  they  are  not  high  enough  to  be 
termed  towers — flanked  by  a  few  yards  of  coquina  wall.  The 
stone  sentry-boxes  still  remain  in  the  interior  buttresses. 
According  to  tradition,  a  guardhouse  once  stood  just  within, 
and  a  drawbridge  crossed  the  moat.  Only  a  few  yards  of  wall 
now  remain  flanking  the  gates,  and  it  is  not  known  how  far, 
in  its  best  estate,  it  extended.  The  most  formidable  of  the 
fortifications  defended  the  land  approach,  and  substantial 
earthworks  once  reached  from  river  to  river,  the  exterior 


174  SAINT   AUGUSTINE. 

slojie  of  tlift  parapnfc  being  covered  Avitli  a  dense  growth  of 
Spanish  bayonet,  tlirongh  which  it  is  well-nigh  impossible 
to  force  a  passage.  Old  engravings  of  the  city  show  it  as  a 
completely  walled  town,  and  the  visitor  may  find  on  some  of 
the  ancient  tombstones  in  the  cemetery  Latin  inscriptions 
containing  the  word  oppidiim,  which  was  often  used  to  dis- 
tinguish a  walled  town  from  one  without  such  defences. 
The  coquina  dwellings  of  the  present  town  are  largely  com- 
posed of  material  plundered  from  still  older  structures,  and 
there  is  no  way  of  determining  how  many  roods  of  city  wall 
were  taken  by  builders  who  cared  nothing  for  Spanish  relics. 

The  i^resent  gateway  was  the  princijDal  entrance,  was 
strongly  guarded,  and  rejDeatedly  saved  the  town  from  the 
sudden  onslaught  of  savage  or  civilized  foes. 

The  Coast.  Between  the  mouth  of  St.  John's  River  and 
St.  Augustine  Inlet,  the  coast  is  an  iinbroken  sand  beach 
nearly  forty  miles  long,  backed  by  scrub-covered  sand  hills 
and  strewn  with  the  wreckage  of  centuries.  For  walking, 
riding,  driving,  or  wheeling  no  highway  made  by  mortal 
hands  can  approach  this  superb  beach  during  the  hours 
when  the  tide  is  not  at  its  highest.  The  coast  is  monotonous, 
to  be  sure,  but  the  sea  is  ever  beautiful  in  color,  and  there 
are  always  objects  of  interest  for  the  lover  of  nature.  Off 
shore  the  water  deepens  quickly,  and  mariners,  when  once 
they  have  cleared  the  shoals  at  either  inlet,  may  confidently 
run  down  the  beach  within  half  a  mile  of  the  breakers.  Four- 
teen miles  south  of  St.  John's  Light  are  the  sources  of  Guano 
Fiver,  in  Diego  Plains,  a  short  distance  inland  from  the 
beach.  This  stream  flows  into  Tolomato  or  North  River,  a 
tributary  of  St.  Augustine  Inlet.  It  follows  the  beach  all 
the  way  at  a  distance  of  one-quarter  of  a  mile  until  it  joins 
the  Tolomato,  when  the  distance  is  one  to  two  miles.  Its 
headwaters  may  be  approximately  located  from  the  beach 
or  from  a  vessel  by  noting  the  greater  distance  of  the  woods 
from  the  coast. 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  175 

31.  Saint  Anastasia, 

familiarly  called  Anastasia  Island,  is  the  nakiral  breakwater 
of  St.  Augustine.  It  is  nearly  fourteen  miles  long,  and  at 
the  widest  part,  not  far  from  the  inlet,  is  nearly  two  miles 
across.  Four  miles  farther  south  it  narrows  to  a  mere  strip 
of  scrub-covered  beach.  For  the  most  part  the  island  is 
covered  with  a  dense  growth,  into  which  few  explorers  will 
wish  to  penetrate  after  five  or  ten  minutes  of  faithful  elfort. 
With  the  aid  of  good  dogs  or  a  good  guide  it  is  still  possible 
to  find  deer  on  the  island,  but  only  in  certain  places  known 
to  the  initiated. 

The  Spaniards  found  it  necessary  at  an  early  date  to  main- 
tain a  lookout  on  the  island.  At  that  time  nearly  all  navi- 
gators— friends  and  foes — approached  from  the  southward, 
and  from  the  town  such  sails  could  not  be  seen  until  close 
at  hand.  The  first  structures  were  of  tall  tree-trunks,  with 
a  "  crow's-nest  "  or  platform  at  top.  Such  an  one  betrayed 
the  existence  of  the  town  to  Sir  Francis  Drake,  in  1586  (see 
p.  138).  Subsequently  a  coquina  tower  was  erected,  but 
still  with  the  original  idea  of  a  lookout,  or  perhaps  a  com- 
bined watch-tower  and  blockhouse,  for  the  wily  Seminole 
was  not  long  in  discovering  lonely  vedettes  in  exposed  i^osi- 
tions.  A  gun  was  mounted  there  after  a  time,  and  flag  sig- 
nals were  made  by  an  established  code,  whereby  the  city  was 
notified  of  friend  or  foe.  It  was  not  until  the  United  States 
came  into  possession  that  a  regular  lighthouse  was  estab- 
lished. The  old  Spanish  tower  was  rebuilt  and  utilized  for 
the  purpose,  and  the  lantern  was  first  lighted  in  1823.  This 
tower  stood  a  short  distance  northeast  of  the  present  light, 
rnd  was  originally  half  a  mile  from  the  beach.  The  sea 
;';radually  encroached,  however,  and  in  June,  1880,  a  violent 
gale  undermined  the  walls,  and  the  ruins  still  cover  the  rocky 
point  south  of  the  railroad  station.  Here  visitors  usually 
make  their  first  acquaintance  with  coquina  in  its  natural 
form. 

The  present  light  tower,  officially  known  as  St.  Augustine 
Light,  stands  in  latitude  29°  53'  7"  N.,  longitude  8V  17' 
12"  "W.     The  nearest  light  to  the  northward  is  at  the  mouth 


176  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

of  St.  John's  liiver,  80  miles  ;  the  nearest  to  the  southward 
is  at  Mosquito  Inlet,  60  miles.  The  light  is  of  the  first 
order,  and  shows  a  fixed  white  light,  varied  by  a  white  fia.sh 
every  three  minutes.  It  is  visible  at  sea  19  nautical  miles. 
The  base  of  the  tower  is  15  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and 
the  centre  of  the  lantern  is  150  feet  above  the  base.  The 
tower  is  accessible  to  visitors  at  all  times,  except  when  some 
uniisual  duty  prevents  the  keepers  from  attending.  The 
view  from  tlie  gallery  is  the  best  that  can  be  obtained  of  the 
iulet  and  the  adjacent  coasts. 

The  peculiar  painting  of  the  tower  in  spiral  bands  is 
adopted  so  that  it  can  be  readily  distinguished  from  any 
other  landmark  on  the  coast — an  important  feature  in  light- 
house construction,  since  a  momentary  sight  is  often  all  that 
can  be  obtained  in  thick  weather. 

The  seaward  shore  of  the  island  is  known  as  the  South 
Beach.  At  the  railroad  station  it  is  somewhat  steeper  than 
most  Florida  beaches,  but  beyond  the  site  of  the  old  light- 
house it  becomes  hard  enough  for  riding  and  driving. 

Tlie  coquina  quarries  are  one  mile  and  a  half  south- 
east from  the  lighthouse.  They  may  be  reached  by  a  fairly 
good  path  (twenty-five  minutes),  either  by  following  the 
beach  to  the  rocky  jDoint  and  then  striking  inland,  or  by  a 
path  from  the  lighthouse,  or  by  a  path  from  Quari-y  Creek, 
which  falls  into  Matanzas  River  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
below  the  Plaza  in  St.  Augustine.  The  last-mentioned  tri]} 
makes  a  pleasant  excursion  from  the  city  by  boat,  including 
a  walk  of  about  two  miles  going  and  returning.  The  quarries 
are  interesting  as  showing  the  stratifications  of  the  coquina 
(Spanish  for  shell-fish).  The  small  shells  are  the  accu- 
mulations of  ages.  Acted  upon  by  water  they  become  par- 
tially dissolved,  and  then,  diying,  are  firmly  cemented  to- 
gether in  a  solid  mass.  The  loose  shells  are  found  in  vast 
quantities  on  some  of  the  neighboring  beache.5. 

The  seaward  coast  of  Anastasia  Island  offers  no  obstacles 
to  navigation  after  clearing  the  shoals  at  either  end.  The 
three  fathom  curve  is  but  half  a  mile  from  the  beach,  and 
shallow  boats  are  in  safe  depth  just  outside  the  breakers. 
About  three  miles  north  of  Matanzas  Inlet,  and  two  miles 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  177 

oflf  shore,  the  manner  is  sometimes  startled  by  the  sight  of 
l)reakers  under  his  bow  where  no  danger  is  indicated  on  the 
chart.  One  who  is  familiar  with  the  phenomenon,  however, 
may  calmly  steer  directly  over  the  apparent  obstacle,  for  there 
arc  twenty-one  fathoms  of  water  in  the  midst  of  the  breakers, 
and  nine  fathoms  all  around  it.  The  disturbance  is  caused 
by  a  boiling  spring,  such  as  occur  frequently  on  the  main- 
land of  Florida.  When  directly  over  or  to  leeward  of  the 
breakers  the  odor  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  may  be  per- 
ceived, suggesting  the  same  source  as  the  artesian  wells 
common  on  the  main  land.  The  volume  of  water  varies 
from  time  to  time,  and  of  course  the  disturbance  at  the 
surface  of  the  sea  is  more  apparent  at  low  tide  than  at  high 
tide.  Sometimes  it  is  not  visible  at  all.  The  exact  bearing 
of  the  spring  from  Matanzas  Inlet  is  N.  by  E.  i  E.,  distant 
3i  miles.  It  may  be  readily  found  in  calm  weather  with 
the  aid  of  a  pocket  compass. 

St.  Augustine  Inlet  is  three-eighths  of  a  mile  wide.  On  the 
north  is  North  Point,  on  the  south  is  Black  Point,  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  Anastasia  Island.  Outside  the  inlet,  shift- 
ing shoals  make  out  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  the  bar  is  very 
variable.  Generally  ten  feet  may  be  carried  through  the 
South  Channel,  which  is  the  deeper  of  the  two.  Sharpies  of 
any  size  can  pass  in  or  out  at  any  time  of  tide,  the  mean  rise 
and  fall  of  which  is  3  ft.  G  in.  to  4  ft.  9  in.,  greatly  influenced, 
however,  by  the  direction  of  the  wind. 

The  main  channel  runs  close  along  the  outer  beach  of 
Anastasia  Island,  with  a  swift  current  at  the  ebb  and  flow  of 
tide.  Inside,  the  inlet  divides  into  Tolomato  and  Matanzas 
Rivers,  the  former  finding  its  source,  as  has  been  stated,  four- 
teen miles  up  the  beach.  Sail-boats  may  ascend  the  Tolo- 
mato about  eight  miles,  and  row-boats  still  farther. 

Bird  Island.  To  the  south  of  the  inlet,  half  a  mile  oflf 
shore,  is  Bird  Island,  a  sand  bar  of  recent  formation,  which 
appears  to  be  increasing  in  extent  and  height  from  year  to 
year.  It  was  formerly  a  great  resort  for  wild-fowl,  but  the 
free  use  of  modern  breech-loading  fire-arms  has  frightened 
mo.st  of  them  to  less  frequented  shores.  Bird  Island  is  often 
visited  in  fair  weather  for  the  sake  of  the  sea-shells  that  are 


178  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

ilirown  np  iii  great  variety  by  every  easterly  blow.  With  a 
fair  wind  the  run  may  be  made  in  an  hour  from  Ht.  Augustine. 
North  Beach.  Opposite  Anastasia  Island  is  North  Beach. 
The  point  of  laud  is  two  miles  (half  an  hour)  from  the 
Plaza.  Launches  aud  sail-boats  make  frequent  trips,  fare 
25c.  The  outer  beach  is  rich  in  sea-shells,  strewn  with 
wreckage,  and  offers  a  tempting  surface  for  walking  or  riding 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  North  Beach  Railroad  runs 
frequent  trains  from  the  Union  Station,  crossing  Tolomato 
River  on  a  bridge,  and  landing  passengers  within  a  few  steps 
of  the  beach. 


33.  Matanzas  River  and  Inlet, 

sejiarating  Anastasia  Island  from  the  mainland,  is  thirteen 
miles  long  to  Matanzas  Inlet,  and  has  an  average  width  of 
one-eighth  to  one-quarter  of  a  mile.  There  is  only  three 
feet  of  water  at  the  "divide"  at  low  tide,  and  six  feet  is 
about  the  limit  of  draught  that  can  be  taken  through  at  av- 
erage high  water.  The  rest  of  the  channel  is  deep,  though 
narrow.  A  pleasant  excursion  is  down  this  stream  to  Matan- 
zas Inlet  and  return.  It  is  practically  an  all-day  trip,  though, 
with  a  favoring  wind  or  in  a  launch,  the  round  trip  may  be 
made  in  five  hours  with  time  for  a  short  stop  at  the  inlet. 
One  mile  south  of  the  Plaza  is  the  movith  of  Quariy  Creek 
(see  p.  154).  The  portion  of  Anastasia  Island  south  of  this 
is  known  as  Fish's  Island,  though  really  not  separated  from 
Anastasia.  This  tract  is  the  old  Fish  estate.  The  original 
owner,  Jesse  Fish,  came  from  Flatbush,  N.  Y.,  prior  to  1763, 
during  the  first  Spanish  period,  and  his  descendants  still 
own  the  place.  This  estate  includes  the  most  valuable  part 
of  the  island,  and  its  orange  groves  were  once  among  the 
finest  in  the  State.  Mr.  Fish  made  many  improvements, 
and  his  jjlantation  was  celebrated  during  the  period  of 
British  supremacy.  The  old  planter  died  and  was  buried  on 
his  own  acres,  and  his  tomb  is  shown  almost  hidden  by  sxir- 
rounding  orange-trees. 

Four  miles  farther  south,  on  the   mainland,  is  Moultrie, 
the  site  of  Buena  Yista,  another  famous  old  plantation,  the 


8AINT   AUGUSTINE.  170 

property,  in  British  times,  of  Lieutenant-Governor  John 
Moultrie,  who  was  an  active  loyalist,  while  his  brother,  Will- 
iam Moultrie,  of  Charleston,  S.  C,  was  so  prominent  a 
rebel  that  the  British  brought  him  to  St.  Augustine  as  a  pris- 
oner. No  doubt  the  brothers  had  memorable  meetings 
during  the  i^eriod  of  confinement.  Buena  Vista  was  fortified 
in  the  early  days,  and  later  a  regular  fort  was  built,  which 
was  occupied  as  one  of  the  outposts  of  St.  Augustine. 
Here,  in  1823,  was  executed  the  treaty  of  Fort  Moultrie,  be- 
tween the  Government  of  the  United  States  and  the  Semi- 
nole Indians.  Alleged  infractions  of  this  treaty  were  among 
the  causes  of  the  Seminole  War  (1835-42). 

Near  Matanzas  Inlet,  on  an  island,  are  the  picturesque 
ruins  of  an  old  Spanish  fort,  of  unknown  date.  Here  the 
Spaniards  first  and  the  English  afterward  kept  a  small  gar- 
rison to  prevent  the  surprise  of  St.  Augustine  from  this 
direction. 

On  these  shores,  more  than  three  centuries  ago,  was 
enacted  one  of  the  darkest  tragedies  of  Floridian  history. 
In  1564  a  colony  of  French  Huguenots  under  Bene  de 
Laudonniere  fortified  themselves  on  the  St.  John's  River. 
In  August  of  the  following  year  Pedro  Menendez  d'Aviles 
with  a  strong  Spanish  force  established  himself  at  St.  Augus- 
tine (see  p.  135),  having  orders  from  his  king  to  make  war 
against  the  French.  Almost  simultaneously  reinforcements 
for  Laudonuiere  had  arrived  in  a  French  fleet  under  Jean 
Ribaut  (see  p.  120),  who  at  once  assumed  the  offen.sive. 
On  September  10th  he  appeared  off  St.  Augustine  with  a 
powerful  armament,  but  a  protracted  storm  compelled  him 
to  put  to  sea  and  the  whole  squadron  was  wrecked  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Canaveral. 

Giving  thanks  to  Heaven  for  this  signal  interposition, 
though  he  was  at  the  time  unaware  of  the  completeness  of 
the  French  disaster,  Menendez  marched  to  Fort  Caroline, 
where  he  surprised  and  slew  most  of  the  garrison  (see  page 
123).  Returning  at  once  to  St.  Augustine  he  soon  heard  of 
the  shipwrecked  Frenchmen  on  the  coast  to  the  southward. 
Marching  to  Matanzas  Inlet  ho  bivouacked  within  sight  of 
the  French  camp-fires  and  awaited  the  dawn.     The   ship- 


.180  SAINT  AUGUSTINE. 

"wrecked  Frenclimeu,  ignorant  of  the  fate  of  Fort  Caroline, 
were  cautiously  making  their  way  thither.  Menendez  had 
but  about  sixty  men  with  him,  while  the  French  numbered 
from  140  to  200,  authorities  differ.  A  parley  followet],  and 
a  party  of  French  officers  crossed  over  in  a  small  boat  and 
told  jNIenendez  their  story  of  recent  shipwreck  and  ijresent 
starvation,  asking  for  treatment  as  prisoners  of  war. 

"  Are  you  Catholics  ?  "  asked  Menendez. 

"  We  are  Lutherans,"  was  the  reply,  given  doubtless  with 
sinking  hearts. 

"Gentlemen,"  said  Menendez,  "your  fort  is  taken,  and 
all  in  it  are  pxat  to  the  sword."  And  no  assurance  of  clemency 
would  he  give,  save  that,  if  the  French  surrendered,  he 
would,  to  quote  his  own  report,  "  do  with  them  as  the  Lord 
should  order."  After  further  consultation,  the  French  de- 
cided that  surrender  was  their  only  hope,  and,  having  de- 
livered up  their  arms,  they  were  brought  over  in  small 
parties.  As  they  landed,  each  detachment  was  marched  out 
of  sight  behind  the  sand  dunes,  where  their  hands  were 
securely  tied.  It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  the  whole 
band,  disarmed  and  helpless,  stood  before  their  relentless 
captor,  ready  for  the  march.  At  this  point  Mendoza,  the 
l^riest,  i^ut  in  a  plea  for  the  lives  of  Catholics,  and  twelve 
Breton  sailors  professing  that  faith  were  released,  with  foiir 
artisans  of  whom  the  Sjianiards  were  in  great  need.  These 
were  sent  to  St.  Augustine  by  boat,  while  the  rest,  with 
gloomy  i:)remonitions  of  their  fate,  and  guarded  by  the  Span- 
ish men-at-arms,  followed  Menendez,  who,  with  a  cane  in  his 
hand,  walked  in  advance.  As  the  sun  sank  he  halted  in  a  se- 
cluded sjaot  among  the  sand  dunes,  and  drew  a  line  on  the 
ground  with  his  cane.  Darkness  was  falling  when  the 
prisoners  came  up,  and,  again  to  cite  the  words  of  Menendez' 
Cciria,  "  I  had  their  hands  tied  behind  their  backs,  and 
themselves  put  to  the  sword.  It  appeared  to  me  that,  by 
thus  chastising  them,  God  our  Lord  and  your  Majesty  were 
served  ;  whereby  in  future  this  evil  sect  will  leave  us  more 
free  to  plant  the  gospel  in  these  parts." 

The  precise  locality  of  this  savage  deed  has  never  been 
known,  and  onlv  bv  accident  can  it  be  discovered. 


SAINT  AUGtrfTIXE.  181 

But  Menendez  had  not  yet  finished  liis  work.  He  sus- 
pected that  other  ships  had  beeu  wrecked  farther  down  the 
coast,  and  wliile  their  crews  were  at  large  he  could  not  feel 
secure,  since  his  own  forces  were  scattered,  some  at  sea, 
some  at  Fort  Caroline,  and  only  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
men  at  hand  for  service. 

The  next  day  Indians  brought  news  of  another  detachment 
of  Frenchmen  at  Matanzas,  and  midnight  found  the  fierce 
Spaniards  again  awaiting  their  prey. 

At  daybreak  Eibaut  and  his  men — for  the  commander-in- 
chief  was  with  this  detachment — were  seen  making  prepara- 
tions to  cross  the  river  on  a  raft.  On  discovering  the  Span- 
iards the  French  drums  beat  and  the  trumpets  sounded,  but 
Menendez  told  his  men  to  cook  their  breakfast  uncon- 
cernedly. After  some  preliminaries  Eibaut,  with  eight 
gentlemen,  crossed  over  in  a  canoe  and  were  courteously  re- 
ceived by  Menendez,  who  refreshed  them  with  food  and 
wine.  Then  he  led  the  French  commander  to  where  the 
bodies  of  his  late  comrades  lay  among  the  sand  hills.  Nego- 
tiations followed,  lasting  until  the  next  day,  and  Eibaut  was 
led  to  believe  that  he  had  effected  an  arrangement  whereby 
the  lives  of  himself  and  his  men  should  be  spared.  The 
French,  however,  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  in  number, 
were  not  all  of  a  like  mind,  and  in  the  end  only  one  hundred 
and  fifty  surrendered.  The  remaining  two  hundred  marched 
southward,  preferring  to  face  the  wilderness  rather  than 
trust  the  Spaniard.  In  the  morning  Eibaut  reported  the 
result,  and  the  canoe  began  its  long  task  of  ferrying  over  the 
prisoners. 

Before  the  first  boat  load  arrived,  however,  Eibaut  was  led 
behind  a  sand  hill  and  his  hands  were  tied!  The  act  re- 
vealed the  intention  of  the  Spaniard.  At  length  all  were 
brought  over^70  says  Menendez,  150  says  Solis. 

Then  came  the  cmcial  question,  "  Are  you  Catholics  or 
Lutherans  ?  and  is  there  anyone  among  you  who  will  go  to 
confession  ?  " 

"I  and  all  here  are  of  the  Eeformed  Faith,"  answered 
Eibaut,  and  then  he  recited  a  Psalm.  "We  are  of  earth," 
he  continued,  according   to  the   Spanish   narrator   (Solis)^ 


182  SAINT   AUGUSTINR 

"and  to  earth  we  must  return  ;  twenty  years  more  or  less 
can  matter  little."  Then  turning  to  Menendez  he  said  he 
Avas  ready,  and  the  scene  of  two  days  before  was  repeated  on 
a  larger  scale. 

"  I  saved  the  lives,"  says  Menendez  in  his  Carta,  "  of  two 
young  gentlemen  aboxxt  eighteen  years  of  age,  as  well  as  of 
three  others,  the  fifer  (see  p.  139),  the  drammer,  and  the  trum- 
peter, and  I  caused  Jean  Ribaut  with  all  the  rest  to  be  put  to 
the  sword,  judging  this  to  be  expedient  for  the  service  of  God 
our  Lord  and  of  your  Majesty."  The  foregoing  account  of 
these  massacres  is  from  the  Spanish  authorities,  as  cited  by 
Parkman  in  his  "  Huguenots  in  Florida."  The  accounts  of 
the  few  French  survivors  coincide  in  all  essential  particulars. 

For  an  account  of  the  signal  vengeance  subsequently 
visited  upon  the  Spaniards  by  Domenique  de  Gourgues,  a 
French  Huguenot,  see  p.  120. 

3Iatanzas  Inlet  has  only  about  six  feet  of  water  at  high 
tide  and  in  easterly  weather  the  sea  often  breaks  entirely 
across  the  entrance.  It  is,  however,  practicable  for  sail- 
boats and  sharpies.  Matanzas  River  extends  eight  or  ten 
miles  south  of  the  Inlet,  finding  its  source  in  Graham's 
Swamp.  Fellicer's  Creek  joins  it  near  the  Inlet.  Sportsmen 
sometime!?  find  good  shooting  along  these  streams,  which  may 
be  ascended  in  canoes  or  very  light  boats  far  up  toward  their 
source.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  be  left  by  the  tide,  as  a 
night  spent  in  the  swamps  is  not  an  agreeable  experience. 


34.  St.  Augustine  to  Jacksonville  (see  p.  110). 

35.  St.  Augustine  to  Palatka. 
By  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.  Thirty  miles  (1  hoar  40  minutes). 
The  general  course  of  the  route  is  southwest.  Crossing  the 
prairies  to  the  west  of  Matanzas  River  the  Tocoi  branch  di- 
verges to  the  right  and  enters  a  long  stretch  of  piney  woods, 
gradually  rising  and  interspersed  with  occasional  hammocks. 
Between  Holy  Branch  and  Merrifield  we  cross  Deep  Creek 
and  shortly  aftei'ward  approach  the  richer  lands  bordering 
St.  John's  River.  At  East  Palatka  Junction  change  cars  if 
bound  for  Halifax   River,    otherwise  the  train   crosses    St. 


SAINT  AUGUSTINE.  183 

John's  Eiver  to  the  i^rinciisal  station  near  the  steamboat 
whai'f  in  Palatka  (p.  188).  Consult  local  time  table. 
About  six  hours  can  be  spent  in  Palatka  if  it  is  desired  to  re- 
turn the  same  day  to  St.  Augustine.  Visit  Hart's  orange 
grove,  drive  through  the  suburbs  north  and  south  of  Palatka. 


38.  Jacksonville  to  Palatka. 

By  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ky.,  56  miles  {2  hours  5  minutes'),  for  stations  and  dis- 
tances, see  pages  17,  25".  82.  By  St.  John's  River  steamboats,  75  miles  (about  6 
hours),  for  landings  and  distances,  see  page  186. 

Bi/  Bail  to  Palatka.  The  general  course  of  the  line  is  nearly 
north  and  south,  following  to  some  extent  the  curves  of  the 
St.  John's  Eiver,  and  never  more  than  three  or  four  miles 
from  its  western  bank.  The  stream,  however,  is  rarely  in 
sight,  owing  to  the  almost  continuous  belt  of  pine  fore.st 
(see  map  of  Duval  County,  page  21:),  Shortly  after  leaving 
the  station  at  Jacksonville  the  line  curves  to  the  southward, 
passing  through  a  level  country,  with  occasional  villages 
and  orange  groves.  Three  miles  beyond  Edgewood  we 
cross  HcGirt's  Creek  on  a  trestle,  and  if  the  day  be  warm 
and  the  traveller  in  luck  he  may  here  catch  his  first  glimpse 
of  the  Florida  alligator.  Two  miles  south  of  Read's  the 
train  passes  into  Clay  County  (see  page  14).  Just  beyond 
Black  Creek  Station  is  the  stream  from  which  it  takes  its 
name,  navigable  to  Middleburg,  six  miles  west,  where  it 
divides  into  two  main  bi'anches,  and  these  again  into  nu- 
merous small  ones,  draining  nearly  the  whole  of  Clay  County, 
and  affording  access  by  small  boats  to  a  wild  and  beautiful 
lake  region  in  the  southwestern  part  of  the  county. 

For  Green  Cove  Springs  see  page  187.  At  Melrose 
Crossing,  just  south  of  Green  Cove  Springs,  is  the  Western 
Railroad  of  Florida  to  Belmore,  fifteen  miles  southwest. 
Shortly  after  leaving  West  Tocoi,  the  line  passes  into  Put- 
nam County  (see  page  80  for  map,  stations,  and  distances). 
The  large  stream  crossed  two  miles  beyond  Teasdale  is 
Rice's  Creek,  which  rises  among  the  lakes  of  the  north- 
western part  of   the  county.     This  stream  is  navigable  for 


184  .SAINT   AUCiUSTINK. 

launches  and  small  l):)a;s,  and  is  one  of  the  favorite  excur- 
sions for  visitois  at  Palatka. 


39.  Jacksonville  to  Palatka  by  River. 

This  part  of  the  St.  John's  River  is  in  effect  almost  a  con- 
tinuous lake,  often  several  miles  wide,  and  again  narrowing 
to  less  than  a  mile.  As  a  rule,  the  banks  are  somewhat 
monotonous,  though  there  is  always  more  or  less  of  interest 
in  the  changing  vegetation  along  the  shores  and  in  the  var- 
ied forms  of  life  almost  always  to  be  seen  in  air  or  water. 
Shooting  is  very  properly  prohibited  on  all  passenger  steam- 
ers. Formerly  it  was  carried  to  such  excess  that  the  river 
trip  was  often  a  continuous  fusillade.  Several  accidents, 
one  of  which  resulted  fatally,  at  last  compelled  a  reform  of 
the  abuse. 

Just  above  the  railroad  drawbridge  at  Jacksonville  the 
river  bends  abruptly  to  the  southward,  between  Grassy 
Point  on  the  east  and  Lancaster  Point  on  the  west.  The 
cluster  of  three  piles,  painted  red,  marks  the  lower  end  of 
Middle  Ground  Shoal.  To  the  eastward  are  the  wooded 
bluffs  of  Villa  Alexandria,  one  of  the  finest  private  estates  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Jacksonville. 

A  triangular  red  beacon  bearing  a  red  light  at  night  marks 
the  upper  end  of  the  Middle  Ground  Shoal.  On  the  east 
bank,  two  miles  above  Grassy  Point,  is  Phillip's  Point,  with  a 
steamboat  landing.  Nearly  opposite,  on  the  west  bank,  is  the 
mouth  of  McGirt's  Creek,  and  just  above  it  Sadler's  Point. 
Three  and  a  half  miles  farther  south  is  Piney  Point,  marked 
by  tall  pines  showing  above  the  surrounding  trees.  Just 
above  Piney  Point,  on  the  same  side  of  the  river,  is  the  set- 
tlement and  landing  of  Black  Point,  and  nearly  opposite  is 
the  mouth  of  Goodsby's  Creek.  The  next  landing  and  set- 
tlement south  of  Black  Point  is  Mulberry  Grove,  and  across 
the  river,  nearly  opposite,  is  Beauclerc  Bluff,  a  conspicuous, 
heavily  wooded  jiromontory,  off  which  stands  a  black  beacon 
(No.  21). 

Two  miles  above  this  is  Mandarin  Point,  and  on  the  same 
side  are  the  toYfU  a^d  lauding  of  Mandarin,  formerly  the 


SAINT   AUGUSTINE.  185 

residence  of  Mrs.  Harriet  Beeclier  Stowe.  A  little  above 
Mandarin  a  black  and  red  buoy  marks  the  wreck  of  the 
steamer  Maple  Leaf,  and  nearly  opposite,  just  north  of  the 
entrance  to  Doctor's  Lake  is  Orange  Park,  with  a  long  wharf 
reaching  out  to  the  channel. 

The  next  reach  in  the  river  is  from  Mandarin  on  the  east  to 
Magnolia  Point  on  the  west  bank  (six  and  one-half  miles)  aver- 
aging one  and  one-half  to  two  miles  in  Avidth.  Julington  and 
Cunningham's  Creeks  enter  on  the  east  bank.  Four  miles 
farther  south  on  the  same  side  is  New  Switzerland  Point, 
heavily  wooded  and  identified  by  a  single  tree  standing  out 
beyond  the  rest.  Opposite,  on  the  west  bank,  is  Hibernia, 
above  which,  one  mile  and  three-quarters,  is  the  mouth  of 
Black  Creek  (navigable  to  Middleburg,  seme  eight  miles  in 
the  interior)  and  Magnolia  Point  a  high  bliift'  bank  with 
heavy  woods.  On  the  east  bank,  nearly  opposite,  is  Popo 
Point,  with  Piemington  Park  and  a  steamboat  landing. 

Turning  Magnolia  Point  a  reach  of  six  miles  opens  south- 
east to  Six  Mile  Point.  On  the  west  bank,  two  and  three- 
quarter  miles  distant,  are  the  hotels  and  many  buildings  of 
Green  Cove  Springs  (see  page  187).  Above  this  landing, 
one  mile  and  three-quarters,  is  red  beacon  No.  38,  marking 
Old  Field  Point  on  the  west  and  San  Patricio  Point  on  the 
east  bank.  South  of  the  last  named  point  a  deep  bight 
makes  in,  called  Hogarth's  Bay,  into  which  empties  Six 
Mile  Creek.  Beyond  this  the  river  narrows  to  a  mile  as  far 
as  Picolata  Point,  and  the  town  of  Picolata  on  the  east  bank. 
At  this  place,  and  at  a  point  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  forts  were  maintained  during  the  period  of  Spanish 
rule.  They  were  successfully  defended  against  the  English 
under  Oglethorpe  in  December,  1739,  but  were  taken  in 
January  following  as  preliminary  to  the  siege  of  St.  Augus- 
tine (see  page  142).  The  remains  of  the  earthworks  can 
still  be  traced,  but  they  are  not  easily  found  by  a  stranger. 

From  Picolata  Point  the  river  is  nearly  straight  for  ten 
miles  to  Federal  Point  on  the  east  bank.  It  varies  in  width 
from  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  two  and  one-half  miles. 
Three  miles  south  of  Picolata  are  Orange  Point,  Tocoi  Creek, 
and  Tocoi,  in  the  order  named.     The  town  is  the  terminus 


186  SAINT  AUfiUSTINE. 

of  the  St.  John's  Kaihvay,  18  miles  to  8t.  Augustine.  Ka- 
cey's  Point  is  three  miles  above  Tocoi,  on  the  same  side  of 
the  river.  Nearly  opposite,  entering  from  the  westward,  is 
Cedar  Creek,  and  above  this  on  the  west  bank  is  Nine  Mile 
Point,  off  which  stands  red  beacon  No.  44.  One  mile  far- 
ther south  is  Palmetto  Bluff.  Federal  Point  on  the  east  bank 
may  be  identified  by  black  buoy  35,  which  is  placed  a  little  to 
the  north  of  the  landing. 

From  Federal  Point  to  Dancy's  Point,  south  by  west  three 
and  one-half  miles,  the  river  is  about  a  mile  wide.  Opposite 
the  town  of  Orange  Mills  is  an  extensive  flat  island,  or  marsh, 
with  a  channel  on  either  side.  On  the  west  bank  are  Bo- 
dine's  Point  and  Whetstone  Point,  in  the  order  named.  Off 
the  latter  is  a  cluster  of  three  piles,  with  a  red  light  set  at 
night.  Another  stretch  of  three  and  three-quarter  miles 
west  southwest  brings  us  np  with  Forrester's  Point  on  the 
east  bank  and  the  mouth  of  Rice's  Creek  opposite,  where, 
with  a  sharp  sweep  to  south  by  east,  Palatka  comes  in  sight 
with  its  railroad  bridge  three  miles  distant.  (For  Palatka  and 
vicinity,  see  p.  188.) 

This  point  is  considered  the  head  of  navigation  for  sailing 
vessels,  as  the  river  becomes  so  narrow  and  crooked  in  its 
upper  reaches  that  only  steamboats  can  navigate  it  to  advan- 
tage. It  is,  however,  the  most  interesting  to  tourists,  owing 
to  the  nearness  of  the  banks  and  the  increasingly  tropical 
character  of  the  vegetation. 

Rive}-  landings  and  distances  between  Jacksonville  and 
Palatka  are  as  follows  ;  those  on  the  east  bank  are  marked  E, 
those  on  the  west  W : 

Miles.  [  Mii.es. 

St.  Nichoks,  E 2    Orange  Dale,  E 34 

Riverside,  W 3    Hogarth's  Landing,  E 38 

Black  Point,  W 10    Picolata,  E 44 

Mulberry  Grove,  W 12    Tocoi,  E  46 

Mandarin.  E 15    Federal  Point,  E 58 

Oransre  Park,  W 15    Oranse  Mills.  E 63 

Fruit  Cove,  E 19    Cook's  Landing,  E 65 

Hibernia,  W 23    Daucv's  Wharf,  E 66 

New  Switzerland.  E 23    Russell's  Point,  E 6T 

R-'mington  Park,  E 25  :  Whetstone,  W 68 

Masruoiia,  W 23  1  Russell's  Landing,  E 69 

Green  Cove  Springs,  W 30  1  Palatka,  W 75 

For  landings,  etc.,  above  Palatka,  see  Route  51. 


GREEN   COVE  SPRINGS.  187 

40.  Grreeu  Cove  Springs,  Clay  County. 

Population,  1,200.  Twenty-nine  miles  from  Jacksonville,  twenty-seven  miles 
from  Palatka. 

Hotels.— Clare,  $3  to  S4  a  day.— Clarendmi,  $i  a  day.— llorganza,  $1.50  to  $2 
a  day. — St.  Clair,  J3  to  §4. — The  Fines,  S3  a  day.  Also  several  smaller  hotels 
and  boarding-houses. 

Railroads  and  Steamboats.— Several  trains  north  and  south  daily  by  J.,  T. 
&  K.  W.  Ky.    All  the  St.  John's  River  steamboats  touch  at  this  landing. 

This  town  has  been  for  many  years  a  place  of  considerable 
resort,  owing  to  its  tine  sulphur  springs,  and  the  natural  ad- 
vantages of  its  situation.  Even  as  seen  from  the  windows 
of  a  passing  train  its  attractions  are  evident,  for  considerable 
labor  has  been  expended  in  laying  out  streets,  fencing  oflf 
parks  with  massive  pine  logs,  and  removing  evidences  of 
recent  clearings. 

A  short  walk  or  ride  from  the  station  brings  the  visitor  to 
Magnolia  Avenue,  the  business  street  of  the  place.  A  short 
distance  farther  is  the  great  spring,  which  discharges  three 
thousand  gallons  of  water  every  minute,  at  a  temperature  of 
78^  F.,  the  year  round.  The  wonderful  purity  of  the  water,  its 
gi'een,  mysterious  depths,  reflections  and  colors  are  a  source 
of  never-ending  pleasure.  The  water  is  slightly  impregnated 
with  sulphur,  but  loses  it  by  evaporation  after  a  short  ex- 
posure to  the  air.  Excellent  bathing  arrangements  have 
been  provided,  and  comfortable  rustic  seats  are  found  at 
almost  every  turn.  Borden  Park,  including  about  five  acres, 
lies  along  the  river  on  high  ground  with  its  native  growth  of 
magnolia,  live  oak,  and  palmetto,  the  rubbish  only  having 
been  cleared  away.  It  is  private  property,  but  open  to  the 
public,  though  a  quaint  inscription  posted  at  the  entrance 
may  proiDeiiy  prove  discouraging  to  vandals.  Much  ingenu- 
ity has  been  displayed  in  the  adaptation  of  natural  tree- 
trunks  for  fences,  gate-posts,  tree-seats,  and  the  like.  On 
the  river  bank,  and  jDrojecting  out  over  the  w'ater,  is  a  tree 
said  to  have  been  used  as  a  lookout  by  the  Seminoles  during 
their  wars,  for  this  was  one  of  their  permanent  camps.  Be- 
yond the  park  a  fascinating  foot-path  extends  far  along  the 
river  side  and  across  Governor's  Creek  to  Magnolia,  one  of 
the  pleasantest  resorts  on  the  St.  John's. 

Green  Cove  Springs  contains  many  charming  winter  resi- 


188  (iHEEN    COVE   SPRIN(;S— PALATKA. 

deuces,  some  of  them  snironnded  with  carefully  tended  gar- 
dens full  of  horticultural  rarities,  and  most  attractive  to  vis- 
itors from  a  colder  climate. 

The  town  itself  contains  churches  of  all  the  leading  de- 
nominations, schools,  stores,  livery  stables,  tramways.  Ex- 
cursions may  be  made  by  boat  up  the  river  as  far  as  Palatka, 
or  down  as  far  as  Jacksonville,  returning  by  boat  or  rail  the 
same  day,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  river  there  are  many 
points  of  interest  easily  within  reach. 


50.  Palatka,  Putnam  County  (C.H.). 

Population,  6,000.— Lat.  29°  38'  N.— Long;.  81°  38'  W. 

Hotels. — Arlington,  $2. — Canova,  $1.30. —  Wtnthrop,  $3. — Kean  Building, 
Rooms  50c. — Putnam  House,  $4. — Saratoga,  |3. —  West  End  House,  f 2  ;  $8  to 
$10  by  week. 

Railroads,  Steamboats,  etc.— The  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  (to  Jacksonville, 
St.  Augustine,  Daytona,  Gainesville,  Tampa,  Pnnta  Gorda,  etc. ).  Stations  for 
points  north  and  south,  1  mile  west  from  river ;  station  for  points  on  sea- 
coast,  etc.,  near  steamboat  wharf  and  railroad  bridge.  Through  cars  are  run 
around  the  city,  making  connections  without  change'(see  local  time  tables). 

Steatiihoats. — All  the  St.  John's  River  steamboats  land  at  the  wharf  near  the 
railroad  bridge.     Ocklawaha  steamboats  land  at  the  same  wharf. 

Carriage  fare  from  railways  and  steamboats,  2.5c.  to  any  part  of  the  city  ; 
luggage,  '25c.  per  piece. 

.  Jjiver;/.— Saddle-horses,  $1.50  a  day  if  reasonably  used.    Double  teams,  $2  an 
hour,  $5  a  day. 

Roicboats,  25c.  an  hour,  $1.50  to  $2  a  day.  Sail-boats  50c.  an  hour,  $3  a  day. 
Steam  launches  can  be  chartered  for  |l5  to  $25  a  day,  according  to  size  of 
party  and  length  of  intended  trip. 

Guidi'.s  for  hunting  or  fishing  miy  be  engaged  at  the  hotels  or  boat  landings  at 
$2.50  to  $3  a  day. 

TrarrL-cars  at  10  minute  intervals  run  between  the  railroad  stations,  fare  5c. 

History. 

Palatka  was  settled  in  1821,  by  James  Marver  and  two 
companions  named  Hine  and  Woodruff.  They  secured  a 
Spanish  grant  and  established  a  trading  post  for  traffic  with 
the  Indians.  Marver's  store  stood  near  the  foot  of  Main 
Street,  and  no  doubt  the  large  live  oaks  on  the  bluff  close  at 
hand  witnessed  many  a  sharp  bargain  that  brought  gold 
into  the  white  man's  pocket.  He  was,  however,  a  great 
favorite  with  his  savage  patrons,  and  had  no  difficulties  with 
them  during  his  stay. 

At  some  date  not  precisely  fixed  Dr.  N.  Bnish,  of  New 
York,  purchased  Marver's  lands  and  interests  and  continued 


PALATKA.  189 

the  business,  bis  two  nephews,  Thomas  and  William  Brush, 
being  his  agents.  The  post  was  sacked  and  burned  promptly 
on  the  outbreak  of  the  Seminole  War  in  1835,  and  the  young 
men  barely  escaped  with  their  lives. 

A  military  post  was  soon  afterward  established  here,  and 
in  1840  it  was  constituted  a  regular  ordnance  depot,  with  the 
barracks  and  shops  necessary  for  a  considerable  garrison 
and  for  the  repair  of  their  arms  and  equipments.  Eight 
large  log  block-houses  were  constructed  along  the  line  of 
Water  Street,  one  of  them  with  a  watch-tower  eighty  feet 
high.  The  commanding  officer's  head-quarters  were  where  the 
late  Colonel  Devall's  house  now  stands.  Cavalry  stables  for 
four  hundred  horses  occupied  the  site  of  the  Putnam 
House  and  a  large  hospital  was  erected  on  the  Hart  property. 
Among  the  officers  quartered  here  were  Scott,  Taylor, 
Worth,  and  Gaines,  who  won  distinction  and  rank  in  the  sec- 
ond M'ar  with  Great  Britain  and  in  the  early  Indian  war. 
Still  younger  were  lieutenants  W.  T.  Sherman,  and  Silas 
Casey,  who  saw  their  first  field  service  in  Florida  and  rose  to 
the  highest  rank  during  the  Civil  War. 

After  the  subjugation  of  the  Indians  and  the  discontinuance 
of  the  military  post,  Palatka  became  the  shipping  point  for 
the  produce  of  the  neighboring  country.  Prior  to  the  com- 
pletion of  the  railroad  in  1886  it  was  the  most  southerly 
lauding  of  any  importance  on  the  river,  and  soon  became  a 
favorite  resort  for  invalids  who  sought  a  warmer  climate  and 
dreaded  the  cold  easterly  winds  of  the  coast.  By  1850  it 
was  a  delightful  place  of  residence,  with  many  handsome 
houses,  some  of  which  are  still  the  finest  in  town.  It  was 
fairly  embosomed  in  orange  trees,  and,  being  an  outpost  of 
civilization  on  the  borders  of  an  almost  unbroken  wilderness, 
offered  great  attractions  to  sportsmen.  Its  commercial  pros- 
perity did  not  begin  until  after  the  Civil  War,  when  it  be- 
came the  distribiiting  centre  for  a  wide  tract  of  rich  countiy, 
and  with  the  advent  of  the  railroad  in  1886  became  the  busy 
and  prosperous  place  that  now  exists.  It  suffered  the  fate 
of  nearly  all  Florida  towns,  and  was  nearly  destroyed  by 
fire.  Like  its  sisters,  however,  it  rallied  pluckih'  from  the 
disaster  and  was  rebuilt  on  a  more  substantial  basis.    It  may 


190  PALATKA. 

now  be  reached  in  thirty-six  hours  from  New  York  and 
will,  no  doubt,  long  maintain  its  position  as  the  most  impor- 
tant town  on  the  river  above  Jacksonville. 

The  visitor  will  find  pleasant  walks  in  either  direction, 
north  or  south,  along  the  river  bank.  The  roads  in  the  vi- 
cinity are  rather  sandy  for  driving,  but  equestrians  may  ride 
in  almost  any  direction  with  the  certainty  of  a  pleasant  ex- 
perience. The  rivers  and  the  neighboring  lakes  afford  a  great 
variety  of  delightful  trips.     (See  Boutes  42  to  54.) 

HarCs  Orange  Grove,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  famous 
groves  in  the  State,  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  about 
three  miles  from  the  wharves.  It  is  easily  reached  by  boat 
from  the  foot  of  Main  Street.  This  grove  was  budded  on 
wild  stock  about  1832,  was  badly  damaged  by  the  severe 
frost  of  1835,  and  began  bearing  about  1845.  It  covers  some 
70  acres  of  land,  contains  about  500  trees,  and  yields  about 
12,000  boxes  of  oranges  annually. 


51.  Lake  George. 

This  fine  lake,  about  sixteen  miles  long  and»eight  miles 
wide,  lies  at  the  junction  of  four  of  the  most  fertile  and 
prosperous  counties  of  Florida,  namely,  Putnam,  Lake,  Vo- 
lusia, and  Marion.  Its  outlet  is  about  thirty-eight  miles 
south  of  Palatka,  and  it  may  be  reached  either  by  boat  or 
rail,  the  excursion  affording  a  pleasant  all  day  trij).  The 
regular  St.  John's  River  steamboats  may  be  taken  to  any  of 
the  Lake  George  landings,  or  the  trip  may  be  extended  to 
Volusia,  ^vhere  the  St.  John's  &  Lake  Eustis  Railway  touches 
the  river,  and  train  may  be  taken  for  Eustis,  Leesburg,  and 
the  Lake  region.  The  time  to  Volusia  by  boat  is  about  four 
hours.  Steam  launches  may  be  hired  at  Palatka,  with  which 
the  round  of  the  lake  may  be  comfortably  made  in  a  day  at 
an  exi^euse  of  .S15  to  §25.  The  trip  may  be  varied  by  stop- 
ping at  Seville  Landing,  about  half  way  up  the  lake.  Con- 
veyances may  be  secured  by  telegraphing  to  the  hotel  at 
Seville.  Tlie  distance  from  the  landing  to  the  railroad  is 
about  four  miles. 


PALATKA.  191 

52.  The  Fruitland  Peninsula. 

This  name  is  given  to  a  tract  of  fine  land  lying  between 
the  St.  John's  Eiver  and  Lake  George  on  the  west,  and 
Crescent  Lake  and  its  outlet,  Dunn's  Creek,  on  the  east.  It 
is  about  twenty  miles  long  and  from  six  to  ten  miles  wide 
from  lake  to  river.  This  territory  was  a  favorite  with  the  Ind- 
ian tribes  of  prehistoric  times,  whose  agricultural  instincts 
led  them  to  select  the  best  lands  for  their  field  crops. 
One  of  the  oldest  settlements  on  tlie  St.  John's  River  was 
formed  under  English  rule  at  Mount  Royal,  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  last  century.  Considerable  progress  was  made  in  Eu- 
ropean methods  of  cultivation,  but  all  lands  were  abandoned 
with  the  return  of  the  Spaniards,  and  it  was  not  until  after 
the  Seminole  War  that  permanent  white  settlements  were 
resumed.  Now  the  whole  peninsula  is  thickly  dotted  with 
farms  and  orange  groves,  and  is  one  of  the  most  thriving 
communities  of  Middle  Florida.  The  peninsula  consists  of 
high  pine  land,  interspersed  with  hammock,  and  admirably 
adapted  for  all  kinds  of  agriculture.  The  large  lakes  to  the 
eastward  and  westward,  with  the  smaller  bodies  of  water 
scattered  through  the  interior,  equalize  the  temperature  to 
an  unusual  degree. 

Throughout  the  peninsula  there  are  pleasant  rides  and 
drives,  and  conveyances  or  saddle-horses  may  be  engaged  at 
almost  any  of  the  principal  river  or  lake  landings. 


53.  Crescent  Lake. 

Dunn's  Creek,  the  outlet  of  Crescent  Lake,  falls  into  the 
St.  John's  about  six  miles  south  of  Palatka.  It  is  a  deep, 
crooked,  picturesque  stream,  eight  miles  long,  and  traversed 
daily  by  steamboats.  The  trip  may  be  varied  by  passing 
through  Murphy's  Creek,  a  branch  of  the  main  outlet.  The 
lake  is  sixteen  miles  long  and  three  miles  wide,  fed  at  its 
upper  end  by  Haw  Creek,  which  forms  the  boundary  be- 
tween St.  John's  and  Volusia  Counties,  and  sends  its  various 


102  i'ALATKA— SEVILLE. 

branches  well  over  toward  the  sea-coast  near  the  head  of 
Halifax  Eiver. 

Crescent  City,  the  principal  town  on  the  lake,  is  hand- 
somely laid  out  on  the  western  shore,  on  high  land,  and  with 
Lake  Stella  immediately  to  the  westward  of  the  town.  The 
level  of  this  lake  is  said  to  be  forty  feet  higher  than  that  of 
Crescent  Lake.  There  is  a  road  and  regular  conveyance  from 
Crescent  City  to  the  railroad,  but  the  lake  steamers  from 
Palatka  afford  tlie  easier  and  pleasanter  means  of  access. 


54.    Seville,  Volusia  County. 

Population,  400. 

Hotels. — The  Seville,  $3.50  a  day ;  special  rates  by  week  or  month. — The 
Grand  Vleuc. 

Seville,  with  its  tasteful  and  characteristic  log- built  .sta- 
tion, and  its  jjalm-  and  orange-lined  main  street,  at  once  at- 
tracts the  eye  of  the  Northern  traveller,  if  only  by  a  casual 
glance  from  tlie  car  window.  The  town  is,  in  fact,  one  of 
the  most  attractive  in  Florida,  owing  to  judicious  and  liberal 
outlay  of  money  in  providing  a  complete  system  of  sewerage, 
and  a  water-supply  drawn  from  a  neighboring  lake.  The 
sewage  is  received  in  tanks,  where  the  solids  are  precipitated 
by  chemical  action,  and  the  liquids  are  carried  off  through 
subsoil  pipes  to  the  neighboring  fields.  The  works  were 
planned  by  Mr.  J.  J.  Powers,  late  Sanitary  Engineer  of  Brook- 
lyn, N.  Y.,  and  are  identical  in  plan  of  construction  with 
those  that  solved  the  very  i^erplexing  problem  of  sewerage 
at  Coney  Island,  N.  Y.  The  town  site  is  at  the  southern 
end  of  the  Fruitland  Peninsula,  in  the  midst  of  the  high 
pine  orange  belt.  Four  miles  west  of  the  railroad  station 
and  hotels  is  Lake  George,  well  known  to  hunters  and  fish- 
ermen. The  town  fronts  on  Lakes  Louise  and  Beatrice, 
two  sheltered  lakes  of  pure  water,  whose  shores  afford  most 
attractive  sites  for  cottages  and  permanent  residences.  In 
the  vicinity  are  nearly  all  the  characteristic  varieties  of  Flor- 
ida land.  The  hammock  bordering  the  lake  is  very  rich,  and 
has  for  many  years  been  known  as  especially  favorable  to  the 


SEVILLE.  193 

growth  of  the  wild  or  Seville  orange,  the  theory  being  that 
ail  the  wild  orange-trees  of  Florida  are  seedlings  from  fruit 
imported  by  the  Sjjaniards.  The  name  Seville  Grove  was 
originally  given  to  a  considei'able  section  of  this  region  com- 
prised in  the  old  Storrs  grant,  and  purchased  by  William 
Kemble  Lente,  one  of  the  earliest  Northern  settlers  in  this 
region.  The  wild  trees  were  topped  and  budded,  and  came 
into  bearing  in  a  surprisingly  short  time.  It  has  since  been 
equalled  and  surpassed  by  many  groves  in  the  vicinity,  but 
is  still  justly  regarded  as  a  type  of  what  can  be  done  with 
wild  orange- trees  in  this  part  of  the  State. 

Saddle-horses  and  carriages  can  be  engaged  at  the  hotel 
for  drives  about  this  very  interesting,  prosperous,  and  well- 
cultivated  region. 


55.  Palatka  to  Sanford  by  Rail. 

J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.,  sixty-nine  miles  (2  hours  50  minutes).    For  stations  and 
distances  see  pp.  82,  9T. 

The  general  direction  of  the  railway  line  is  a  little  east  of 
south.  Leaving  Palatka  the  train  traverses  the  level  sub- 
urbs and,  after  a  few  minutes,  crosses  the  St.  John's  Eiver 
on  a  long  trestle  and  drawbridge.  Here  occurs  a  good  op- 
portunity to  observe  the  tangled  growth  of  the  low  ham- 
mock bordering  the  river.  A  range  of  blufls,  remarkably 
bold  and  high  for  this  region,  will  be  noticed  at  this  point, 
their  sides  often  covered  with  orange  gi'oves.  For  twenty 
miles  after  crossing  the  river  the  railroad  traverses  the 
central  ridge  of  the  Fruitland  Peninsula  (see  p.  191).  At 
times  the  route  seems  lined  with  orange  groves  for  miles  on 
both  sides,  and  in  the  season  of  fruit  and  blossoms  the  pano- 
rama is  one  not  to  be  forgotten.  Many  pretty  lakes  break 
the  monotony  of  grove  and  forest,  most  of  them  deep  and 
full  of  water  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

Between  Denver  and  Hammond  the  boundary  line  of 
Putnam  and  Volusia  Counties  is  crossed  (see  jDp.  80,  94). 

At  Seville  notice  the  station,  a  genuine  log-cabin  adapted 
to  the  taste  and  requirements  of  civilization,  the  bark  and 


194  SEVILLE. 

knots  smoothed  away,  the  logs  finished  in  oil,  and  all  the 
rudeness  of  the  frontier  skilfully  eliminated.  (See,  also, 
account  of  Seville,  p.  192.)  On  both  sides  of  the  track  are  al- 
most continuous  orange  groves,  the  trees  thriving  on  soil 
that  to  all  appearance  is  nothing  better  than  sand.  Those 
who  are  interested  in  such  matters  will  do  well  to  stop  in 
this  neighborhood  and  inspect  methods  of  orange  culture, 
and,  if  it  be  the  proper  season,  of  harvesting,  packing,  and 
the  like. 

At  De  Land  Junction  is  the  crossing  of  a  branch  road  to 
the  St.  John's  Eiver  on  the  west  and  to  De  Land,  the 
county  seat,  on  the  east  (see  Route  53). 

At  Orange  G'ttij  Junction  is  the  crossing  of  the  Atlantic  & 
Western  Railroad,  extending  to  the  St.  John's  River  on  the 
west,  and  to  New  Smyrna  on  the  east  (see  Route  63). 

At  Enterprise  Junction  the  train  divides,  part  going  eastward 
to  Indian  River  (see  Rotate  70),  and  jjart  continuing  to  the 
southward  and  presently  crossing  the  St.  John's  River  just 
below  the  outlet  of  Lake  Monroe.  At  this  point  is  Monroe, 
the  junction  of  the  Orange  Belt  Railway  (see  p.  49).  The 
line  now  curves  to  the  east,  and  soon  stops  in  the  handsome 
station  at  San  ford. 


56.  Palatka  to  Sanford  by  River. 

One  hundred  and  twenty  mOes  (about  8  hours  by  daylight,  12  hours  by 
night). 

Above  the  drawbridge  at  Palatka  lies  the  most  interesting 
part  of  the  St.  John's  River.  Here  the  stream  loses  its 
lacustrine  character  and  becomes  comparatively  narrow  and 
swift,  and  so  crooked  that  the  distance  to  Sanford  is  nearly 
double  that  by  rail.  Local  time-tables  should  be  con- 
sulted so  as  to  secure  a  trip  one  way  or  the  other  by  day- 
light. The  night  trip,  however,  is  by  no  means  devoid  of 
interest,  for  the  boats  carry  brilliant  headlights  which  pro- 
duce striking  and  novel  effects  along  the  densely  wooded 
shores.  A  good  view  of  Hart's  Orange  Grove  is  obtained  in 
passing  (see  p.  190).     The  vicinity  of  Rollestou  was  early 


SEVILLE.  195 

settled  by  English  i^ioneers,  but  was  abantloned  wlieu  the 
Spaniards  resumed  control  in  1784:. 

A  little  above  Westouia  is  the  mouth  of  Dunns  Creek,  the 
navigable  outlet  of  Crescent  Lake  (see  p.  191),  and  at  Buffalo 
Bluff  is  the  railroad  drawbridge.  Nearly  opposite  Beecher 
is  the  mouth  of  the  Ocklawaha  River. 

Beyond  Fort  Gates,  a  military  post  during  the  Indian 
wars,  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  small  island  to  the 
westward  is  Hog  Island  ;  the  larger  one  is  Drayton  Island, 
containing  1,870  acres  of  remarkabh*  productive  soil,  under- 
laid with  beds  of  carbonate  and  phosphate  marl.  The  island 
was  settled  by  E.  W.  Towle,  in  1875,  and  now  has  a  well-to- 
do  poi^ulation  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty.  Orange  cult- 
ure is  very  successful  on  the  island,  owing  to  the  protection 
afiforded  by  the  surrounding  waters,  and  the  inhabitants  say 
that  even  the  severe  frost  of  1886  passed  over  the  island 
without  doing  any  harm. 

On  the  west  shore  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Kerr,  a  beautiful, 
irregular  body  of  water,  with  two  towns  on  its  shores.  Lake 
George,  eighteen  miles  long,  affords  an  agreeable  change 
from  the  narrow,  winding  stream,  but  in  a  short  time  the 
southern  inlet  is  reached,  and  shortly  afterward  Volusia,  the 
site  of  one  of  the  early  Spanish  Missions.  From  De  Land 
Landing  is  a  short  branch  railroad  to  the  county  town  (see 
p.  198). 

Bine  Siwing  Landing  takes  its  name  from  a  fine  spring 
that  boils  up  from  iinknowu  depths  a  few  rods  from  the  river 
bank.  To  visit  the  spring  it  is  necessary  to  pass  through 
private  grounds,  for  which  permission  should  be  asked. 
From  this  landing  the  Atlantic  <fe  Western  Eailroad  (see  p. 
97)  extends  eastward  to  New  Smyrna  on  the  sea-coast. 

A  considerable  stream  joins  the  St.  John's  on  the  west 
side  about  six  miles  above  Blue  Spring.  It  is  the  Kissimmee 
Kiver,  but  has  no  connection  with  the  large  river  of  that 
name  farther  south.  Passing  through  the  last  drawbridge 
on  the  St.  John's,  Lake  Monroe  opens  to  the  eastward  with 
the  distant  buildings  of  Sanford  and  Enterprise  visible 
among  the  tall  palms  on  the  opposite  shores.  (For  Lake 
Monroe,  see  p.  197.) 


196  SEVILLE— SANFORD. 

Rivei-  landings  are  as  follows  from  Palatka  to  Sanford. 
Distances  are  given  from  Jacksonville.  E.  signifies  east 
bank,  W.  west  bank. 

Hart's  Orange  Grove,  E 75  l  Yellow  Bluff.  W 121 

Eollefiton,  E 78  i  Sprinix  (iarden,  E 122 

San  Mateo.  E 79    Spring  Grove,  E 126 

Edpcwatcr,  E 80    Lake  View,  E 132 

Bufialo  Bluff,  W 87    Volusia.  E 134 

Horse  Landing,  W • 96    Astor,  W 134 

Nashua,  E 95    Manhattan,  W 136 

Smith's  Landing,  E 96    Fort  Butler,  W  138 

Welaka,  E 100    Oransre  Bluff,  E 140 

Beechcr,  E    101    Bluffton,  E 140 

Norwalk,  W 103  ,  St.  Francis,  W 155 

MountRoyal.E 105    Old  Town,  W  ...   156 

Fruitlands,  E 105    Crow's  Landing,  W 159 

Poit  Gates,  W  106    Hawkinsville,  W 160 

Pelham  Park,  E 112    Cabbage  Bluff.  E 162 

Racemo,  E 112    De  Land  Landing,  E 162 

Georgetown,  E  113    Lake  Beresford,  E 163 

Orange  Point.  E 113    Blue  Spring.  E 168 

Lake  George,  E 115    Wekdva,  E     184 

Drayton  Island.  W 116    Shell  Bank,  E  163 

Salt  Springs,  W 119    Sanford,  W 195 

Benella,  W 120    Mellon\ille,  W 196 

Seville,  E 120    Enterprise,  E ...200 


60.  Sanford,  Orange  County. 

Population,  3,500.— Lat.  28°  50'  N.— Long.  81°  17'  W. 

Hotels.— r^  Sanjord  Home,  $3  to  $4  a  day.— San  Le(m  Hotel,  $2  to  $2.50  a 
day. 

itALLROADS,  STEAMBOATS,  ETC.  Jacksotivilh,  Tampa  <6  Kep  West  Railway, 
north  to  Jacksonville  (see  pp.  69,  82,  97),  and  east  to  Indian  River  (see  p.  97). 

South  Florida  Railroad,  south  to  Tampa,  Punta  Gorda,  and  the  Gulf  steam- 
ship lines  (see  pp.  70.  73,  79). 

tianford  rf-  Lake  Eiistis  Railimy,  west  to  Tavares,  Leesburg,  etc.  (see  p.  48). 

Sanford  £■  Indian  River  Railwai/,  southeast  to  Lake  Charm  (see  p.  71). 

The  Orange  Belt  Railway,  southwest  to  Tarpon  Springs  and  the  Pinellas 
Peninsula  (see  pp.  38,  49,  70,  74.  87). 

All  these  roads  use  a  station  in  common  near  the  hotels  and  business  streets. 
Restaurant  in  station. 

Steamboats. — The  steamboat  wharf  is  five  minutes'  walk  east  of  the  Sanford 
House.  There  are  daily  boats  to  and  from  Jacksonville  and  intermediate  land- 
ings. 

Carriage  rate  from  station  or  landing,  25c.  ;  luggage,  25c.  per  piece. 

iu'eri/.- Saddle  horses,  75c.  to  $1  an  hour,  $2  to  13  a  day.  Double  teams,  $5 
a  day. 

Guides  for  hunting  and  fishing.  f5  a  day  with  dogs  and  outfit. 

Sanford  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Monroe,  the  land  rising  from  the  water  level  in  a  gentle 
slope  sufficient  for  efitectual  drainage.  The  town  is  named 
after  General  H.  S.  Sanford,  late  United  States  Minister  to 
Belgium. 


SANFORD.  197 

The  surrounding  land  was  an  old  Spanish  grant,  and  be- 
longed, in  1870,  to  General  Joseph  Finegan,  an  ex-officer  of 
the  Confederacy.  From  him  General  Sanford  purchased  the 
entire  estate  (known  as  the  old  Levy  grant)  of  twenty-three 
square  miles.  At  that  time  there  was  on  the  lake  shore  an 
insignificant  hamlet  called  Mellonville,  after  Captain  Mellon, 
U.S.A.,  who  was  killed  here  in  an  engagement  with  the 
Seminoles.  Genehil  Sauford's  early  attempts  to  introduce 
organized  labor,  whether  white  or  black,  were  resisted  by 
force  of  arms,  but  he  soon  became  strong  enough  to  defy 
the  prejudices  of  the  scattered  population,  and  the  result  is 
ajjparent  in  the  jiresent  prosperity  of  the  place.  A  large 
number  of  Swedes  were  imported  with  their  families,  and 
they  now  form  a  prosperous  part  of  the  community. 

Belair,  three  miles  south  of  Sanford,  and  easily  reached  by 
rail  or  carriage  road,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  famous 
plantations  in  the  State.  It  is  the  property  of  General  San- 
ford, who  began  operations  on  a  large  scale  soon  after  liis 
purchase  of  the  Levy  grant.  The  grove  contains  95  acres 
of  oranges  and  50  acres  of  lemons,  with  a  large  experimental 
farm,  wliere  all  kinds  of  exotics  are  tested  under  the  best 
possible  conditions  for  ascertaining  their  adaptability  to  the 
Florida  climate. 

Lake  Monroe  is  nearly  circular  in  shape,  six  miles  long,  a 
little  more  than  five  miles  wide,  and  with  an  average  depth 
of  about  twelve  feet.  Sanford  and  Enterprise  are  the  only 
two  towns  on  its  shores.  The  fishing  for  bass  and  the  other 
fresh-water  varieties  of  fish  is  good  in  all  parts  of  the  lake, 
but  of  course  the  fish  have  their  favorite  feeding-grounds, 
and  until  these  are  ascertained  there  is  little  use  in  fishing. 
The  shores  of  the  lake  are  for  the  most  part  wild,  and  cov- 
ered with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  and  saw  jDalmetto.  Deer 
and  turkies  are  found  within  a  few  miles  of  the  lake,  and 
even  along  its  less  frequented  borders,  but  without  a  guide 
and  trained  dogs  it  is  nearly  impossible  to  shoot  them.  Above 
Lake  Monroe  the  river  is  not  regularly  navigated,  though  it 
is  practicable  for  good  sized  launches.  It  winds  for  the 
most  part  among  vast  stretches  of  savannah  and  saw  grass, 
occasionally  sjireading  into  large  lakes,  as  Harney,  Jessup, 


198  SANFORD— UE   LAND. 

Poinsett,  Winder,  and  Washington.  It  is  often  a  very  dif- 
ficult matter  to  decide  which  is  the  true  river  channel,  but 
when  found  the  stream  is  easily  navigable  and  the  upper 
lakes  are  so  near  the  Indian  River  at  Kockledge  and  Eau 
Gallic  that  carries  are  easily  made  across  the  intervening 
hammock.  The  upper  St.  John's  should  not  be  attempted 
save  in  a  boat  that  will  serve  as  a  sleeping-place  at  a  pinch, 
for  there  are  often  long  stretches  of  morass  where  it  is  im- 
l^ossible  to  camp  comfortably  on  shore. 


61.  De  Land.     Volusia  Couuty. 

Population.  2,000.— Lat.  29°  N.— Long.  81°  14'  W. 

Hotels.— CarroMtoJi  Hous\  $2.50  to  i&.—rarceland  Hotel,  $2.50  to  %Z.— Put- 
nam House,  $2  to  f3. 

Railroads.— Branch  to  De  Land  .Junction  and  Landing  on  St.  John's  River, 
five  miles  west,  where  connection  is  made  with  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.,  and  with 
river  steamboats. 

Carriage  rate  from  station,  25c. ;  luggage,  25c.  par  piece. 

De  Land  has  good  hotels,  electric  lights,  numerous  stores, 
cliurches,  schools,  and  a  general  air  of  business  prosperity. 
As  the  seat  of  government  of  a  large  county  in  the  heart  of 
the  orange  region  it  is  the  centre  of  a  considerable  'Amount 
of  business  connected  with  the  growing  interests  of  the 
community.  The  situation  is  healthful  in  the  high  pine  re- 
gion, and  forest  still  surrounds  it,  save  where  it  has  been 
cleared  away  to  make  room  for  orange  groves  and  other  im- 
provements. The  town  is  named  after  its  founder,  Mr.  H. 
A.  De  Land. 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood  are  several  interesting 
l^laces,  notably  the  residence  and  grounds  of  Mr.  John  B. 
Stetson,  of  Philadelphia,  where  horticulture  in  its  various 
branches  is  carried  to  a  high  degree  of  perfection. 

The  L-ondequoit  Dairy,  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the 
hotels,  is  interesting  as  one  of  the  most  successful  attempts 
to  introduce  Jerseys,  Holsteiu,  and  other  high  grade  cattle 
into  this  region. 

Lake  Helen,  six  miles  southeast,  may  be  reached  from  De 
Land  either  by  road  through  the  woods  or  by  rail,  changing 
at  De  Land  Junction  and  Orange  City.     (See  next  page.) 

De  Leon  Spring,  six  miles  north,  is  a  pleasant  resort  for 


DE   LAND— LAKE   HELEN.  199 

picnic  parties.  The  Spring  boils  up  in  such  volume  that  it 
was  formeiiy  used  to  drive  a  sugar-mill,  the  ruins  of  which 
are  still  to  be  seen  near  by. 

Spring  Garden,  three  miles  north  of  De  Leon  Spring,  has 
entered  successfully  ujjon  silk  culture.  There  are  several 
i:)rosperous  silk-farms  in  the  vicinity,  where  may  be  seen  the 
curious  processes  connected  with  this  industry. 

Dexter  Lake  and  the  St.  John's  River  are  available  for 
boating  and  fishing  exchrsions.  The  best  hunting  grounds 
are  to  the  eastward,  in  a  wide  belt  of  sparsely  settled  country, 
partly  savanna,  partly  hammock,  from  five  to  fifteen  miles 
from  the  railroad.  Hunters  and  guides  can  be  engaged  at 
$5  a  day,  or  at  a  stated  amount  according  to  the  success 
achieved ;  so  much  for  a  shot  at  a  deer,  so  much  for  a  turkey, 
or  so  much  for  a  wildcat,  the  hunter,  of  course,  not  being 
responsible  for  the  marksmanship  of  the  sportsman, 

De  Land  University  stands  on  an  elevation  just  outside  the 
town,  commanding  a  good  view  of  the  vicinity.  It  is  de- 
signed to  afford  facilities  for  students  of  both  sexes  who 
prefer  a  southern  climate  during  the  winter  months.  There 
are  ample  buildings,  separate  dormitories,  and  a  full  staff 
of  instructors  for  the  different  departments.  The  school 
year  of  thirty  weeks  begins  in  October  and  ends  in  May. 


62.  Lflke  Helen.     Volusia  County. 

Lat.  28°  58'  N.— Long.  81°  13'  W. 

Hotels.— rA«  Harlan  Hotel,  $2  to  $2.50  a  Any.— The  Granville,  $7  to  $10  a 
week. 

Railroads. — The  Atlantic  &  Western  Railroad  east  to  New  Smyrna  and  coast- 
wise steamers,  west  to  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.  and  St.  John's  River  steamers. 

Lake  Helen  is  essentially  a  resort  or  sanitarium.  Its  in- 
habitants are  mainly  Northerners,  who  come  for  the  winter, 
l^referring  the  air  of  the  piney  woods  to  that  of  the  sea- 
coast.  For  such  persons  the  situation  is  very  attractive. 
The  laud  is  high,  the  surface  of  the  lake  being  about  sixty 
feet  above  the  sea  level,  and  the  bluff*  where  the  hotel  stands 
some  thirty  feet  higher. 

The  place  is  named  after  the  daughter  of  its  founder,  Mr. 
H.  A.  Da  Land.    The  lake  is  one  of  a  chain  of  similar  lakes  of 


200  LAKE  HELEN— DAYTON  A. 

small  size,  but  filled  with  pure  water  and  of  great  depth. 
Lake  Helen,  it  is  said  on  good  authority,  has  been  sounded 
to  a  depth  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet  without  finding 
bottom.  The  fishing  is  good  and  tlie  hotel  has  a  large  fleet 
of  rowboats  at  the  disposal  of  its  guests  without  extra  charge. 
Along  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  are  a  number  of  handsome 
cottages,  with  luxuriant  flower-gardens  containing  all  kinds 
of  tropical  and  semi-tropical  plants  that  grow  and  blossom 
in  the  open  air  all  the  year  roiuid.  The  facilities  for  house- 
keeping are  exceptionally  good,  as  there  is  a  large  vegetable 
garden  connected  with  the  hotel,  a  local  meat  market,  and 
stores  that  furnish  the  ordinary  supplies  required  in  this 
climate. 


70.  Daytoiia,  Volusia  County. 

Population,  1,700.— Lat.  29°  10'  N.— Long.  81°  W. 

Hotels.- OcedH  House,  $2..50  to  13  a  day.— J^almetto  Hotel,  $2  to  $2..50  a  day. 
Eailroads  and  Steamboats.— St.  John  and  Halifax  River  Railway,  to  Pa- 
latka.    Steamboats  to  Lagoon  landings,  Titusville,  and  Rockledge. 

From  Palatka  to  Daytona  is  57  miles  (3  hours  25  minutes). 
The  general  direction  of  the  railroad  is  southeast,  passing 
from  Putnam  to  St.  John's  County  at  Yelvington,  crossing 
the  latter  and  entering  Volusia  County  a  mile  south  of  Bulow 
(see  pp.  80,  82,  94).  After  crossing  the  bridge  at  Palatka 
the  famous  Hart  orange  grove  may  be  seen  to  the  south  of 
the  track.  Leaving  the  hammocks  and  rolling  jjine  lands 
that  border  the  St.  John's  Eiver,  the  country  becomes  low 
and  the  track  runs  for  miles  across  the  head  of  a  great  cy- 
press swamp  that  extends  far  down  into  Volusia  County. 
Beyond  this  the  country  becomes  flat  and  at  length  ojiens 
out  into  prairies,  which  give  way  again  to  wonderfully  rich 
hammock  ridges  along  the  coast.  The  Tomoka  River  is 
crossed  near  a  station  of  that  name. 

The  town  of  Daytona  stretches  for  two  miles  along  the 
west  bank  of  Halifax  River,  a  salt  water  lagoon  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  wide.  It  has  streets  pleasantly  shaded 
with  live  oaks  and  palmettos,  including  unusually  fine  speci- 
mens of  both.  The  hammock  ridge  on  which  tlie  town 
stands  averages  two  miles  wide  and  extends  for  60  miles 


DAYTONA.  201 

down  the  coast.  It  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  hard 
wood,  including  wild  orange-trees,  many  of  which  have  been 
grafted  and  brought  under  cultivation.  Among  the  notable 
groves  of  the  vicinity  are  the  Higby,  Blake,  Wilder,  and 
Handy  groves,  the  last  named  being  a  young  grove  while  the 
others  are  largely  grafted  on  wild  stock.  To  Holb/  Hill,  three 
miles  north  of  Daytona,  is  a  good  road  bordered  with  palms, 
and,  for  tlie  greater  part  of  the  distance,  within  sight  of  the 
water. 

Silver  Beach.  The  peninsula  that  separates  Halifax  River 
from  the  ocean  rises  to  a  considerable  height  opposite  Day- 
tona and  for  some  miles  to  the  northward.  On  the  landward 
side  of  this  ridge  are  some  of  the  most  charming  places  in 
Florida.  Sheltered  from  the  direct  force  of  the  ocean  winds, 
the  gardens  and  plantations  are  remarkably  luxuriant  and 
produce  the  more  delicate  varieties  of  tropical  fruits  and 
flowers  in  abundance.  There  are  several  private  residences 
at  Silver  Beach,  where  a  system  of  subirrigation  has  been 
introduced  with  remarkable  results,  notably  in  the  grounds 
of  Mr.  Clark  Marsh. 

Drives.  Many  of  the  roads  about  Daytona  are  exception- 
ally good,  especially  along  the  shore  where  shells  have  been 
available  for  mixing  with  the  soil.  By  far  the  finest  drive 
is  along  the  ocean  beach  in  either  direction.  At  low  tide  an 
expanse  of  sand  several  hundred  feet  wide  is  laid  bare. 
Level  and  hard  as  a  floor,  no  finer  driveway  can  be  im- 
agined. Bridges  cross  Halifax  River  at  Daytona  and  Or- 
mond,  so  that  the  route  can  be  conveniently  varied.  For 
beach  drives  the  time  of  the  tide  should  always  be  con- 
sidered, as  the  sand  is  very  heavy  above  high  water  mark. 
Extended  excursions  np  the  beach,  twenty  six  miles  to  Ma- 
tanzas  Inlet  (see  p.  178),  or  southward  to  Mosquito  Inlet, 
twelve  miles  (see  p.  207),  are  quite  practicable.  At  Mosquito 
Inlet  there  are  good  hotels,  but  there  is  none  within  easy 
reach  at  Matanzas,  so  that  a  good  store  of  jirovisions  and  a 
supply  of  freshwater  should  be  taken  if  the  longer  excursion 
is  attempted.  On  the  main  land  there  are  exceptionally 
good  roads  southward  to  and  beyond  New  Smyrna. 


202  ORMOND. 

71.    Ormond,  Volusia  County. 

Six  miles  north  of  Daytona  (see  above).     Population,  300. 
HoTKL.— 77««  Ormond,  $4  a  day. 

A  fiue  bridge  spaus  Halifax  River  at  this  point,  and  a  tram- 
way crosses  it  extending  to  the  ocean  beach  at  one  end  and 
to  the  St.  J.  &  H.  R.  Railway  at  the  other.  Cars  run  at  half 
hour  intervals,  connecting  with  all  passenger  trains.  The 
Ormond  Hotel  has  a  large  and  completely  apjiointed  annex 
on  the  ocean  beach,  so  that  guests  can  choose  between  the 
magnificent  ocean  view  or  the  more  sheltered  outlook  across 
the  lagoon.  The  distance  between  the  two  houses  is  nearly 
a  mile,  but  inter-communication  is  easy  by  tramway  or  car- 
riage road. 

Tomoka  River  is  a  tributary  of  the  Halifax,  following  a 
northerly  course  nearly  parallel  to  it,  and  navigable  for  ca- 
noes and  small  boats  for  about  twelve  miles.  The  Tomokas 
were  a  powerful  Indian  tiibe  during  the  early  years  of  Span- 
ish occupation.  A  catechism  in  their  language  was  prepared 
by  the  Jesuit  missionaries  and  published  about  1613. 

For  other  excursions  iu  the  vicinity  of  Ormond  see  Route 
60.  

72.  Halifax  River. 

This  lagoon,  or  tidal  river,  has  a  total  length  of  about 
tweuty-five  miles  from  its  head  to  Mosquito  Inlet.  Its  gen- 
eral course  is  parallel  to  the  ocean,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  pai'tly  hammock  and  partly 
the  ordinary  beach  growth  of  saw  palmetto. 

For  the  first  six  miles  north  of  the  inlet  the  river  is 
bordered  by  marshes,  and  is  from  two  hundred  to  four  hun- 
dred yards  wide,  with  at  least  eight  feet  of  water  in  the 
channel.  Thence  for  fourteen  miles  it  widens  to  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile,  with  a  channel  depth  of  three  to  eight 
feet.  Above  this  it  narrows  again,  and  for  a  distance  of  four 
miles  is  known  as  Halifax  Creek.  The  headwaters  consist 
of  two  branches.  Smith's  Creek  closely  following  the  beach, 
and  Bulow's  Creek  turning  more  to  the  westward  and  rising 
iu   Graham's   Swamp.     There   are  bridges  at  Daytona  and 


ORMOND— NEW  SMYRNA.  203 

Ormontl,  respectively  twelve  and  eighteen  miles  from  the 
inlet. 

Just  north  of  the  inlet  is  a  wide  stretch  of  marsh,  inter- 
sected by  narrow  creeks  that  connect  to  the  westward  M'ith 
shallow  bodies  of  water  known  as  Rose,  Strickland,  and 
Turnbull  Bays. 

Steamboats  of  light  draught  run  regularly  through  Halifax 
River,  leaving  Daytona  in  the  morning  on  alternate  days, 
touching  at  Blake,  Port  Orange,  Ponce  Park,  and  other  land- 
ings, and  continuing  down  Hillsborough  aud  Indian  Rivers 
as  far  as  Rockledge.  Railroad  connections  at  Daytona,  New 
Smyrna,  and  Titusville. 


80.  New  Smyrna.     Volusia  County. 

Hotel. — Ocean  House,  $3  a  day. 

Railroad. — The  Atlantic  and  Western  (see  p.  97). 

Steamboats  on  Ualil'ax  and  Hillsborough  Rivers. 

New  Smyrna  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  Florida. 
Shell-mounds  and  barbaric  implements  are  found,  proving 
its  early  occupation  by  Indians,  and  there  are  numerous 
ancient  ruins,  probably  of  Sjjani.sh  construction,  but  concern- 
ing which  nothing  definite  is  known. 

Authentic  history  begins  in  1767,  when  a  certain  Dr. 
Andrew  Turnbull,  an  English  gentleman  of  fortune,  entered 
upon  the  gigantic  task  of  draining  the  low  hammocks  back 
of  New  Smyrna,  and  making  them  fit  for  cuitivatiou.  He 
had  satisfied  himself  of  the  wonderful  richness  of  this  tract, 
and  preliminary  surveys  had  proved  the  possibilities  of  drain- 
age. This  was  four  years  after  the  cession  of  Florida  to 
Great  Britain,  and  the  English  were  fast  learning  that  they 
need  not  depend  on  provision  ships  for  the  necessaries  of 
life. 

Turnbull  procured  a  grant  of  sixty  thousand  acres  from 
the  Governor  on  condition  that  certain  improvements  should 
be  made  within  a  specified  time.  He  then  sailed  to  the 
Mediterranean,  and  secured  permission  from  the  authorities 
to  transport  to  Florida  a  large  number  of  Greek  families. 
For  this  permit  he  paid  £400.     Most  of  the  Greeks  were 


201  NEW  SMYRNA. 

from  the  Peloponnesus.  The  number  was  further  recniited 
from  the  Balearic  Isles,  and  in  the  end  some  fifteen  hundred 
persons,  men,  women,  and  children,  emigrated  under  his 
leadership.  On  his  part  free  transportation,  with  good  pro- 
visions and  clothing  were  guaranteed.  If  any  were  dis- 
satisfied at  the  end  of  six.  months  they  were  to  be  sent  home, 
but  those  who  remained  and  worked  for  three  years  were  to 
receive  fifty  acres  of  land  for  each  family,  and  twenty-five 
acres  for  each  child.  The  voyage  jjroved  long,  and  many 
died  on  the  passage,  but  the  survivors  began  work  with  good 
courage,  built  jjalmetto  huts  for  the  approaching  winter,  and 
planted  crops  that  yielded  full  returns  in  early  spring.  As 
soon  as  it  was  certain  that  the  colony  was  secure  against 
hunger,  Turnbull  planted  indigo.  In  1772,  about  three 
thousand  acres  were  under  cultivation,  and  the  net  value  of 
the  crop  was  £3,174. 

Success  seemed  assi;ired,  but  for  some  reason  the  manage- 
ment of  affairs  was  left  to  agents,  who  inaugurated  a  sys- 
tem of  oppression  that  soon  became  absolute  slavery  with 
all  its  revolting  features.  By  1776  only  six  hundred  of  the 
colonists  were  left.  In  the  summer  of  that  year  a  party  of 
Englishmen  from  St.  Augustine  visited  New  Smyrna  to  see 
the  improvements,  and,  while  conversing  among  themselves, 
their  comments  on  the  state  of  affairs  were  overheard  by  a 
bright  Minorcan  boy,  who  immediately  told  his  mother  what 
he  had  heard.  Secret  meetings  were  held,  and  a  plan  was 
concocted  whereby  a  party  of  three  of  the  bolder  sjiirits  were 
granted  leave  of  absence  to  catch  turtle.  Instead  of  going 
south,  however,  they  started  up  the  coast,  swam  Matanzas 
Inlet,  and  reaching  St.  Augustine  appealed  to  Governor 
Tonyn  for  protection ,  which  was  promised.  The  envoys  re- 
turned to  New  Smyrna  with  the  tidings  of  release.  A  leader 
was  chosen,  Pallicier  by  name,  and  under  his  direction  the 
able-bodied  men  provided  themselves  with  wooden  spears, 
rations  were  packed  for  three  days,  and  with  the  women  and 
children  in  the  centre  the  six  hundred  began  their  mai'ch. 
So  secretly  was  all  this  managed  that  they  had  proceeded 
several  miles  before  their  departure  was  discovered.  No  at- 
tempt at  forcible  restraint  was  made,  though  it  is  said  that 


NEW  SMYRNA.  205 

Turubull  himself  waylaid  them  before  the}'  reached  St.  Au- 
gustine, and  endeavored  to  persuade  them  to  return.  They 
marched  on,  however,  and  reported  to  the  Governor,  who 
ordered  j^rovisions  for  them,  and  organized  a  court  for  the 
trial  of  their  cause,  the  Attorney -General  of  the  Province, 
Younge  by  name,  appearing  as  their  counsel.  TurnbuU 
failed  to  establish  any  further  claim  upon  their  services,  and 
they  were  assured  of  personal  liberty.  Lands  were  assigned 
them,  and  they  soon  became  an  influential  element  of  the 
population  iu  St.  Augustine.  Some  of  their  descendants  are 
still  to  be  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  Smyrna, 
whither  they  returned  after  they  became  assured  that  there 
was  no  danger  of  re-enslavement. 

The  canals,  half -overgrown  trenches,  and  cmmbling  ruins 
of  stone  buildings  are  all  that  now  remain  of  Turnbull's  en- 
terprise, but  they  are  beginning  to  play  their  part  in  the  new 
agricultural  undertakings  of  the  day.  No  doubt  the  whole 
elaborate  system  of  drainage  will  sooner  or  later  again  be 
utilized. 

After  the  Miuorcan  revolt  New  Smyrna  was  abandoned  for 
nearly  a  generation.  In  1803,  however,  a  few  pioneers  came 
back,  and  by  1835  some  degree  of  prosperity  had  returned. 
Then  came  the  Seminole  War  and  the  little  settlement  was 
nearly  exterminated  by  successive  raids.  After  peace  was 
restored  the  survivors  found  their  way  back,  rebuilt  their 
houses,  and  for  twenty  years  were  undisturljed. 

With  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  Mosquito  Inlet  of- 
fered a  tempting  haven  for  blockade-runners,  and  it  became 
necessary  to  break  ui?  the  rendezvoiis.  Two  United  States 
gunboats,  the  Penguin  and  the  Henry  Andrew,  reached  the 
inlet  on  March  20,  1862.  The  last  named  vessel,  being  of 
light  draft,  crossed  the  bar.  On  the  22d  a  boat  expedition, 
with  43  men,  was  sent  down  to  Mosquito  Lagoon  to  recon- 
noitre. They  went  down  eighteen  miles,  jiassing  New 
Smyrna  unmolested,  but  on  their  return  the  leading  boat 
was  fired  into  from  an  earthwork  near  the  town,  which  from 
previous  examination  was  supj^osed  to  be  abandoned.  Lieu- 
tenant Budd  of  the  Penguin  and  Master  Mather  of  the  An- 
drew were  killed,  and  in  the  engagement  that  followed  thir- 


2()<;  NEW   SMYRNA. 

teen  others  were  killed  or  woiiDclcd.  The  survivors  took  to 
cover  on  shore  aud  I'ojoined  their  ships  after  night  had  fallen. 
Of  course  summary  vengeance  was  taken  for  this  attack,  and 
all  buildings,  wharves,  and  the  like,  that  could  be  of  service 
to  blockade-runners  were  destroyed. 

New  Smyrna  is  a  favorite  resort  for  sportsmen.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  hotel,  Captain  Sams,  is  familiar  with  the 
whole  region  and  is  always  ready  either  to  accompany  his 
guests  himself  on  hunting  expeditions  or  to  furnish  comi^e- 
tent  guides,  boats,  and  equipments.  Large  and  small  game 
of  all  kinds  is  to  be  found  in  the  woods  and  savannahs  of  the 
mainland,  and  water-fowl  frequent  the  marshy  islands  that 
border  the  lagoons.  The  best  of  salt-water  fish  are  caught 
from  the  wharves  or  in  the  channel,  especially  in  the  vicinity 
of  Mosquito  Inlet,  four  miles  distant  (see  p.  207). 

A  few  rods  south  of  the  hotel  is  one  of  the  drainage  canals 
cut  by  Turnbull's  engineers.  On  the  other  side,  north  of  the 
hotel,  is  a  fine  shell-mound,  on  which  Turnbull  built  his 
"  castle  "  which  is  said  to  have  been  a  solid  structure  cap- 
able of  good  defence.  The  house  that  now  occupies  the 
mound  is  built  over  the  old  cellars.  South  of  the  railroad 
are  other  ruins,  the  remains  of  an  old  stone  wharf,  an  old 
burial-ground,  and  other  evidences  of  long-forgotten  habi- 
tations. Farther  back  from  the  shore  are  ruined  sugar-mills, 
indigo-vats,  and  a  network  of  admirably  planned  and  con- 
structed drainage  works.  In  this  direction  an  excellent 
road  continues  to  Hairks  Park  (2  miles),  a  beaiitifully  situ- 
ated town  with  pretty  houses,  a  fine  reach  of  river  and  easy 
access  to  an  ocean  beach  that  has  not  a  break  for  130  miles. 

Four  miles  north  of  the  town,  on  a  fine  shell-mound,  are 
the  walls  of  an  old  coquina  house,  still  in  excellent  preser- 
vation. It  is  called  "The  Rock  House,"  but  nothing  what- 
ever is  known  of  its  origin.  It  is  said  to  have  antedated 
the  Turnbull  period.  Two  or  three  times  it  has  been  re- 
jjaired  and  occupied,  but  as  often  has  been  destroyed  by  war 
or  accident.  It  is  a  picturesque  little  niin,  commanding  a 
fine  ouJook  to  seaward.  The  road  lies  through  a  magnifi- 
cent forest.  Beyond  the  "Eock  House"  the  road  continues 
several  miles  to  a  point  overlooking  Turnbull  Bay,  where 


FOXCE   PARK   AND   MOSQUITO   INLET.  '2i)7 

Imicheou  can  usually  be  procured  at  a  house  near  hx.  It  is 
not  a  public  house,  however,  and  such  accommodation  is  by 
courtesy. 


81.  Ponce  Park  and  Mosquito  Inlet,  Volusia  County. 

Lat.  29°  4'  49''  N.— Long.  80°  5.5' 33"  W. 
Pacetli's  Hotel,  $2  a  day. 

ateamboais,  on  alternate  days,  north  to  Daytona  and  south  to  New  Smyrna 
and  Titusville,  at  all  which  points  are  railroad  connections. 

The  coast  from  Matanzas  Inlet  (see  p.  178)  to  Mosquito 
Inlet,  forty-eight  miles,  is  a  repetition  of  that  to  the  northward. 
A  continuous  beach  of  hard,  white  sand,  with  deep  water  half 
a  mile  to  seaward.  The  general  trend  of  the  coast  is  south 
by  east,  curving  slightly  inward,  and  the  woods  from  inlet  to 
inlet  on  the  mainland  are  seemingly  unbroken.  About  three 
miles  north  of  Mosquito  Inlet  there  is  a  conspicuous  green 
hill  forty  feet  high,  and  there  are  numerous  santl-hills  in  the 
vicinity  twenty  feet  high.  Consjjicuous  bluffs  lie  also  to  the 
southward  of  the  inlet.  The  break  in  the  beach  is  half  a 
mile  wide  with  a  channel  two  hundred  yards  wide  and  five  to 
ten  feet  of  water  at  low  tide.  The  main  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  is  about  two  feet  four  inches.  The  sand-bars  shift  rap- 
idly according  to  wind  and  tide,  and  the  entrance  is  dan- 
gerous without  a  local  pilcjt.  The  lighthouse  is  a  red  brick 
tower  surmounted  by  a  black  lantern  160  feet  above  the  sea. 
It  shows  a  white  fixed  liglit  of  the  first  order,  visible  eigh- 
teen miles  at  sea.  This  tower  was  finished  in  1887  and  will 
well  repay  a  visit,  for  all  its  appointments  are  of  the  most 
approved  type.  A  flight  of  218  steps  leads  to  the  lantern. 
The  walls  are  twelve  feet  thick  at  the  base.  From  the  gal- 
lery at  the  top  a  strange  and  impressive  view  may  be  ob- 
tained of  the  inlet  and  the  surrounding  wilderness  of  sea 
and  shore.  The  lighthouse  is  open  to  visitors  at  all  hours 
when  the  keepers  are  not  on  duty.  The  exact  latitude  and 
longitude  of  the  tower  are  given  at  the  head  of  this  article. 

Ponce  Park  is  the  lawful  name  of  the  hamlet  half  a  mile 
north  of  the  light  tower.  It  is  a  noted  resort  for  fishermen, 
as  the  neighboring  waters  abound  with  shecpshead,  bass, 
Spanish   mackerel,  bluefish,  and  the  other  suit- water  varie- 


208  PONCE   PARK  AND  MOSQUITO  INLET. 

ties.  The  hotel  is  adequate  for  the  needs  of  sportsmen. 
The  walks  in  the  vicinity  are  limited  to  the  beaches  and  to  a 
few  trails  cut  through  the  scrub  to  the  ocean.  From  the 
hotel  south  to  the  inlet  (one  mile)  is  an  easy  walk  and  the  mag- 
nificent ocean  beach  may  be  followed  thence  as  far  as  de- 
sired. Some  of  the  trails  leading  from  the  beach  to  the 
lighthouse  and  hotel  are  very  difficult,  and  should  not  be  at- 
tempted except  by  good  walkers.  The  ocean  beach  is  very 
fascinating  with  its  rare  and  curious  shells  and  its  endless 
persjjective  of  sand  and  surf.  It  is  in  perfect  condition  for 
driving  during  several  hours  between  tides  every  day. 

For  extended  excursions  boats  are  the  only  available  ve- 
hicles, and  of  these  there  is  a  good  supply  at  the  hotel.  The 
lagoons  north  and  south,  the  beach  beyond  the  Inlet,  and 
the  intricate  channels  leading  into  Turnbull  Bay  are  all 
open  to  the  boatman,  and  full  of  attractions  for  gunners, 
fishermen,  and  tourists. 

Hillsborough  Riper  extends  southward  from  Mosquito 
Inlet  thirty-six  miles,  to  the  head  of  Indian  River.  The 
first  few  miles  are  bordered  by  blufis  on  the  south  or  sea- 
ward side  and  marshes  on  the  north.  The  channel  is  quite 
deep,  vessels  drawing  ten  feet  ascend  to  New  Smyrna  (see  p. 
203),  but  the  shallows  are  intricate  and  shifting.  Through 
this  part  of  the  river  the  tide  runs  swiftly.  South  of 
Smyrna  the  river  is  nearly  parallel  to  the  beach.  The  divid- 
ing strip  of  land  is  often  high  and  wooded,  with  occasional 
settlements.  The  mid  section  of  the  river  is  much  cut  up 
and  obstificted  by  mangrove  islands,  and  the  channels  are 
intricate,  but  the  main  passage  has  been  well  marked  by  bea- 
cons maintained  by  the  canal  company.  In  some  places 
the  water  is  ten  feet  deep,  but  only  four  feet  can  be  carried 
through. 

Turtle  Mound,  ten  miles  south  of  Mosquito  Inlet,  is  the  only 
conspicuous  natural  landmark  on  this  pavt  of  the  coast.  It 
is  so  called  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  sea-tiirtle,  the 
central  mound  representing  the  shell,  and  two  flanking 
moiands  the  flipjjers.  Seen  from  the  summit  of  the  mound, 
the  resemblance  is  quite  apparent,  but  it  is  probably  acci- 
dental.    The  mound  is  about  fortv  feet  high.     The  north 


PONCE  PARK  AND   MOSQUITO  INLET.  209 

side  is  quite  precipitous,  showing  the  shell  strata  •with  occa- 
sional evidences  of  fires,  and,  rarelv,  some  rude  Indian  relic. 
An  excavation  was  made  bv  explorers  iu  the  summit  of  the 
mound  many  years  ago,  but  nothing  of  especial  interest  was 
discovered. 

The  lower  or  southei'n  reach,  Hillsborough  River,  is  twenty 
miles  long  with  an  average  width  of  about  two  miles.  A 
narrow  strip  of  sand,  often  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards 
wide,  separates  it  from  the  beach.  The  depth  is  four  and 
one-half  to  five  feet.  About  twelve  miles  from  its  junction 
with  Halifax  liiver  it  overlaps  the  head  of  Indian  River, 
being  divided  from  it  on  the  west  by  a  ridge  of  limestone 
rock,  generally  about  one  thousand  yards  wide.  A  canal 
has  been  cut  through  the  ridge  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  long  and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  through  this  the  boats  of 
the  Indian  River  Steamboat  Company  now  pass  regularly  to 
and  from  the  Indian  River.  Below  the  Haulover  Canal  the 
land  separating  Halifax  and  Indian  Rivers  broadens  into  a 
large  tract  known  as  Merritt's  Island,  though  it  is  in  reality 
two  islands  separated  by  Banana  River  (see  map  of  Brevard 
County,  p.  9). 

Towns  and  landings  on  Halifax  River,  Hillsborough  River, 
and  Mosquito  Lagoon  are  as  follows : 

Miles.  Miles. 

Tomoka 0  New  Smyrna 5 

Onnond 6  Hawks  Park 3 

HollvHill 3  OakHill,                   \                       ,„j. 

Davtona 3  EMora  (East  bank)/ ^^^ 

Blake 3  Shiloh 5 

Port  Orange 3  Haulover 6 

Ponce  Park  (Mosquito  lulet) 5  ;  Titusville 12 


210  THE  INDIAN   RIVER. 

90.  The  Indian  River. 

See  map  of  Brevard  County,  p.  9.  The  direct  ronte  from  Jacksonville  to  the 
head  of  the  river  is*  by  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.,  one  hundred  and  fifty-nine  miles,  to 
Titu^ville  (5  hours  rtO  minutes).  This  may  be  varied  by  <:oin{?  to  Daytona  and 
the  C3  by  boat  southward.  Boats  leave  Daytona  on  alternate  days,  or  by  rail 
to  New  Smyrna,  and  thence  by  boat  as  above  (see  p.  209). 

Indian  River  is  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable  and 
interesting  watercourse  in  Florida.  Connected  through  in- 
lets with  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  more  or  less  affected  by  its 
tides,  it  retains  many  of  the  characteristics  of  a  freshwater 
stream,  owing  to  the  numerous  tributaries  that  join  it  from 
the  great  natural  reservoirs  of  the  mainland. 

From  its  head,  twelve  miles  north  of  Titusville,  to  its 
southern  extremity  at  Jupiter  Inlet,  Indian  River  is  one  hun- 
dred and  forty-two  miles  long,  and  so  straight  that  water  and 
sky  seem  to  meet,  as  at  sea,wiien  one  looks  north  or  south 
along  the  river.  The  width  varies  from  one  hundred  feet  in 
the  Narrows,  to  three  miles  or  more  at  the  widest  part.  The 
head  of  the  river  is  divided  opposite  Cape  Canaveral  by  a 
broad  tract  called  Merritt's  Island.  The  eastern  branch  is 
Banana  River,  and  this  again  has  a  branch  called  Banana 
Creek,  dividing  the  Island  opposite  Titusville  (see  map  of 
Brevard  County).  Banana  River  has  five  to  six  feet  of 
water  ;  Banana  Creek  two  to  three  feet.  Indian  River  com- 
municates with  the  sea  through  two  inlets,  namely,  Indian 
River  Inlet,  sixty  miles  south  of  Cape  Canaveral,  and  JuiDiter 
Inlet  at  its  soiithern  end.  The  first  named  has  about  four 
and  one-half  feet  at  high  water,  and  the  other  about  five 
feet. 

Cape  Canaveral  (pronounced  Can-av'-eral)  is  a  peculiar  sharjo 
outstanding  angle  of  the  coast,  projecting  about  eight  miles 
beyond  the  general  trend  of  the  beach.  To  the  north  and 
south  the  coast  line  is  south-southeast.  A  glance  at  the 
map  immediately  suggests  the  idea  that  Merritt's  Island 
was  once  the  cape,  and  that  slow  geological  upheaval  raised 
it  to  its  present  altitude,  while  the  present  cape  was  thrown 
up  by  the  sea  to  take  its  place  as  a  breakwater.  The  general 
outlines  are  almost  ielentical.  The  cape  is  a  triangular  tract 
of  bare  sea  sand,  partially  covered  with  scnib,  desolate  be- 


THE   INDIAN   RIVER.  211 

Yond  expression,  but  a  fine  oceau  view  and  an  outlook  over 
the  strange  landward  prospect  may  be  obtained  from  the 
tower.  The  mainland  is  largely  shut  off  by  the  compara- 
tively high  ridges  of  Merritt's  Island,  but  the  whole  course 
of  Banana  Eiver  can  be  followed. 

The  lighthouse  tower  stands  on  the  northeast  pitch  of  the 
cape,  in  latitude  28"  27'  37"  N.,  Long.  80°  31'  31"  W.  The 
tower  is  139  feet  high,  and  shows  a  white  flash  light  of  the 
first  order  every  sixty  seconds,  visible  17|  nautical  miles. 
The  tower  is  painted  black  and  white  in  horizontal  bands. 
A  light  was  first  established  here  in  1847,  and  the  old  tower 
still  remains  as  a  landuiark.  The  present  tower  was  built 
in  1868.  An  automatic  whistling  buoy  is  anchored  6f  miles 
off  the  cape  to  warn  vessels  of  dangerous  outlying  shoals 
when  the  light  cannot  be  seen.  In  1887  the  sea  encroached 
129  feet  on  the  tower,  and  Congress  made  an  approj)riation 
to  constnict  a  revetment  for  its  protection. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War  the  lightkeeper,  Captain 
Burnham,  who  had  been  long  in  the  service  of  the  Govern- 
ment, learned  that  a  project  was  on  foot  to  seize  and  destroy 
the  costly  Fresnel  lantern  and  its  machinery.  Burnham  was 
in  symixithy  with  the  cause  of  secession,  but  he  was  never- 
theless faithful  to  his  trust,  and  baffled  all  attempts  of  the 
Confederates  to  capture  the  lantern  and  its  belongings. 

Six  miles  north  of  the  cape  are  the  remains  of  an  old  re- 
doubt, evidently  the  work  of  Europeans.  It  is  not  improb- 
able that  this  may  have  been  the  fort  erected  by  the  sur- 
vivors of  Eibaut's  expedition  who  refused  to  surrender  to  the 
Spaniards  at  Matanzas  (see  p.  178). 

The  sea-coast  from  Mosquito  Inlet  to  False  Cape  is  formed 
by  the  narrow  strips  of  land  that  sepai'ate  the  inland  l.i- 
goons  from  the  ocean,  everywhere  is  a  stretch  of  beach  backed 
by  scrub  and  a  forest  of  pines  with  an  occasional  hammock 
island  or  shell  mound.  The  three-fathom  line  is  in  some 
places  only  a  third  of  a  mile  from  the  beach.  Between 
False  Cape  and  Cape  Canaveral  there  are  dangerous  outlying 
shoals,  witli  a  good  depth  near  the  beach. 

The  boats  of  the  Indian  River  Steamboat  Company  leave 
Titusville  every  morning  for  Jupiter  and  intermediate  land- 


212  THE  INDIAN  RIVER. 

ings.  The  conditions  of  navigation  are  such  and  the  length 
of  the  trip  so  great  that  it  cannot  be  accomplislied  wholly  by 
daylight,  but  the  boats  are  commodious  and  well  equipped 
in  all  respects,  with  comfortable  state-rooms  and  an  excel- 
lent table. 

The  whole  trip  is  interesting  to  the  tourist  for  its  novelty. 
On  the  one  hand  is  a  narrow  strip  of  beach  across  which,  at 
intervals,  one  may  see  the  masts  of  southward  bound  steam- 
ers, keei^ing  close  in  shore  to  avoid  the  Gulf  Stream  ;  on  the 
other  are  occasional  settlements  with  the  unbroken  forest 
between,  and  beyond  them  a  wilderness  that  has  never  yet 
been  thoroughly  explored.  On  the  broad  reaches  of  the 
river  are  countless  flocks  of  ducks  and  geese,  and  overhead 
are  hundreds  of  unfamiliar  birds.  The  navigation  of  the 
narrows  is  always  entertaining.  The  boats  are  built  with 
special  reference  to  short  turns,  and  as  they  push  their  way 
through  the  crooked  channels,  the  mangi-oves  brush  along 
the  guards,  and  some  new  surprise  awaits  the  spectator  at 
every  turn.  The  water  is  usually  highly  ijhosphorescent  at 
night,  and  wonderful  displays  of  natui-e's  fireworks  may  be 
seen  as  the  boat  passes  through  flocks  of  ducks  or  over 
schools  of  mullet  and  the  other  fish  with  which  these  waters 
abound.  At  times  the  surface,  for  a  hundred  feet  or  more 
on  either  side  of  the  bow,  is  crossed  and  recrossed  by  an  in- 
tricate embroidery  pattern  traced  in  lines  of  soft  yet  bril- 
liant light. 

The  last  part  of  the  trip  to  the  southward  is  necessarily 
performed  by  night,  but  on  the  return  trip  this  part  of  the 
journey  is  made  by  daylight,  so  that,  going  or  returning, 
there  is  an  opportunity  to  see  the  whole  river. 

The  western  shore  is  the  home  of  the  famous  Indian 
Eiver  orange,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  settlements  cul- 
tivated groves  have  rejjlaced  the  dense  natural  growth.  In  ■ 
most  cases  a  screen  of  palmettos  or  other  forest  trees  has 
been  left  to  protect  the  oranges  from  the  easterly  winds, 
which,  coming  direct  from  the  ocean,  are  often  injurious. 
For  this  reason  few  groves  are  to  be  seen  from  passing 
steamers,  but  during  the  shipping  season  the  boats  are  heav- 
ily freighted  with  crates  of  the  finest  fri;it. 


THE   INDIAN    RIVER-TITUSVILLE.  213 

Farther  south  pineapples  become  an  impoiiant  item  of 
commerce,  and  the  bluffs  near  Eden  are  covered  with  acres  of 
this  curious  plant.  One  of  the  most  enjoyable  features  of  the 
trip  is  the  gradual  change  noted  in  the  vegetation,  which  as- 
sumes more  and  more  the  subtropical  characteristics  until 
at  Jupiter  a  fine  sjDecimen  of  the  cocoa-palm  is  seen  in  full 
bearing. 


91.  Titusville,  Brevard  County. 

Popnlation,  1,000.— Lat.  28=-  35'  N.— Long.  80°  40'  W. 

Hotels.— /ndian  River  Hotel,  $1.50  to  $2.50  a  day,  $6  to  $10  a  week.— GVand 
View  Hotel,  same  rates. 

Railroad. — Indian  River  Division  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  system  to  Enterprise 
Junction.     For  stations  and  distances  see  pp.  11  and  97. 

Steamboats. —  The  Indian  River  Steamboat  Company.  Daily  boats  to 
Jupiter.    Boats  on  alternate  days  to  Daytona  and  intermediate  landings. 

tiaddle-horses,  25c.  an  hour,  $2  a  day. 

Rowboats,  25c.  an  hour,  $2  a  day.    Sailboats,  $2  to  $10  a  day. 

Guides,  $1  to  $5  a  day. 

Titusville  is  the  county  town,  with  a  bank,  stores,  and  con- 
siderable business  interests.  It  affords  a  good  head-quarters 
for  tourists  or  sportsmen  desiring  to  engage  boats  for  long 
hunting  and  fishing  expeditions.  In  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity are  Cape  Canaveral  and  the  creeks,  rivers,  and  ponds  in- 
tersecting Merritt's  Island,  the  beaches,  the  Haulover  Canal, 
with  the  Dummitt  orange  grove,  and  the  shores  of  Indian 
River  in  either  direction. 

Titusville  was  formerly  called  Sand  Point.  It  was  founded 
by  one  Colonel  Titus,  a  leader  in  the  Kansas  Crusade  of  1855 
-1856,  and  a  pioneer  in  this  region,  who  was  for  many  years 
the  autocrat  of  the  settlement. 


214:  ROCKLEDGE. 


92.  Rockledge,  Brevard  County. 

Population.  300.— Lat.  23"  IS'  N.— Long;.  80°  38'  W. 

Hotels.— /Hd /aw  nicer  llatfl.  $4  a  Any.— Sew  Rockledrje,  $2..50  a  day.— Tro/i- 
cal  House,  $3  a  day.    Good  boa.  d  at  S12  a  week. 
Churches,  Episcopal,  Methodist,  aud  Pre8b3-terian. 
Guide,  C.  E.  Coolc.     Special  tennH  must  be  made. 
Rowboats,  $2.50  a  day.    Sailboats,  $4  a  day. 

■The  appropriateness  of  the  name  Eockledge  is  evident  as 
soon  as  the  steamer  draws  near  the  shore.  For  three  or  four 
miles  an  abrupt  dyke  of  coralline  rock  rises  along  the  water- 
side to  a  height  of  from  six  to  twelve  feet.  Along  the  crest 
of  the  ridge,  sheltered  from  the  ocean  winds  by  a  fine  growth 
of  palms  and  live  oaks,  is  the  town  of  Rockledge,  with  nu- 
merous handsome  houses,  many  of  them  designed  for  the 
winter  residences  of  Northern  visitors,  several  good  hotels, 
and  a  general  air  of  comfort  and  prosperity  that  cannot  fail 
to  prove  attractive.  An  excellent  roadway,  suitable  for 
pleasure  driving,  extends  for  several  miles  along  the  water- 
side. 

The  river  is  here  about  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  the  oppo- 
site shore  being  the  southern  point  of  Merritt's  Island.  Be- 
yond this  is  the  wide  Banana  River,  separated  from  the 
ocean  by  a  narrow  strip  of  sandy  beach.  The  river  in  both 
directions  offers  numerous  attractions  for  hunters,  fishermen, 
and  picnic  parties. 

Three  miles  west  of  Rockledge  is  Lake  Poinsett,  to  the 
shores  of  which  there  is  a  practicable  road.  Boats  are  some- 
times hauled  across.  The  fishing  in  the  lake  is  said  to  be 
exceptionally  good,  and  game  of  all  kinds  is  to  be  found 
along  the  borders  of  the  savannahs. 


MELBOURNE.  215 


93.  Melbourne,  Brevard  County. 

Popnlatiou,  200.— Lat.  28°  5'  N.— Long.  SO"  30'  W. 

Hotels. —  Carleton,  Goode  House,  Idleaild  Cottage,  Riverside,  $1.50  to  $2  a  day, 
$7  and  upward  by  the  week. 

Steamboats.—" Indian  Kiver  Steamboat  Co.,  daily,  north  to  Titusville,  south  to 
Jupiter. 

Churches. — Episcopal,  Methodist,  Presbyterian. 

At  this  point  the  River  is  two  miles  across  and  the  penin- 
sula half  a  mile  wide,  with  a  tramway  to  the  ocean  beach, 
where  are  facilities  for  bathing.  The  trip  across  the  river 
is  made  by  steam  ferry  or  by  small  boats,  and  is  the  favorite 
short  excursion  for  visitors.  Not  far  distant  is  the  Govern- 
ment House  of  Refuge  provided  for  the  relief  of  shipwrecked 
mariners. 

There  are  no  roads  suitable  for  driving  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. All  locomotion  must  needs  be  effected  on  foot  or  by 
water.  The  mouth  of  Banana  River  is  about  six  miles  north 
of  Melbourne.  The  town  of  Tropic,  with  a  hotel  where 
meals  or  lodging  may  be  had,  is  on  the  point  between  the 
two  rivers.  It  is  an  all-day  excursion  by  steam  launch  to 
Canaveral  near  the  head  of  Banana  River.  A  difficult  trail 
leads  westward  about  seven  miles  through  hammocks  and 
swamps  to  Lake  Washington,  one  of  the  sources  of  the  St. 
John's  River.  All  kinds  of  game  are  to  be  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  Melbourne.  There  are  no  professional  guides, 
but  it  is  always  possible  to  secure  the  services  of  a  hunter 
familiar  with  the  region.  Special  bargains  are  made  accord- 
ing to  services  required. 


216  JUPITER  INLET. 

94.  Jupiter  Inlet,  Dade  County. 

Lat.  2e,°  50' 54"  N.— Long.  80"  4'  48"  W. 

Hotel. — T/ie  (Jhattahimr.hec  (a  lar<.'e  river  steamboat  moored  to  the  wharf  and 
adapted  to  this  use ),  %'A  a  day. 
Steamlioats. — Indian  Kiver  Steamboat  Company,  daily  to  Titusville. 
Railroad. — .Jupiter  <fk  Lake  Worth  Railroad,  8  miles  south  to  Juno. 
Soo<s.— Naphtha  launch  and  rowboats  for  hire  at  hotel  at  reasonable  rates. 

Jupiter  Inlet  marks  the  southern  extremity  of  the  long 
series  of  rivers  or  lagoons  that  skirt  the  coast  of  Florida  in 
an  almost  uubroken  chain.  The  opening  is  about  one-eighth 
of  a  mile  wide  with  three  feet  depth  at  mean  low  water.  The 
tide  runs  swiftly  at  the  ebb  and  flow,  fresh  or  salt  water  pre- 
jDonderating  according  to  the  stage  of  the  water  in  the  ever- 
glades and  the  considerable  streams  that  here  make  down 
from  the  interior.  The  inlet  widens  just  within  the  beach, 
and  there  is  good  and  secure  anchorage  for  small  vessels  in- 
side the  north  jioint. 

The  large  steamboat  that  does  excellent  duty  as  a  hotel  is 
moored  about  a  mile  from  the  inlet,  and  nearly  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Jupiter  Sound,  as  the  lower  reach  of  the  river  is 
called.  From  the  upper  deck  there  is  a  good  view  of  the  in- 
let and  the  neighboring  waters. 

No  one  capable  of  mounting  the  stairs  should  fail  to  cross 
over  to  the  lighthouse  and  enjoy  the  imjiressive  view  of 
ocean,  river,  forest,  and  prairie  that  spreads  map-like  to  the 
horizon  in  all  directions. 

The  tower  stands  on  a  high  bluff  west  of  the  mouth  of  the 
sound,  it  is  94  feet  high  from  base  to  centre  of  lantern.  The 
total  height  above  the  sea-level  is  146  feet.  The  light  is  of 
the  first  order,  showing  a  fixed  white  light  varied  by  a  white 
flash  every  ninety  seconds.  It  is  visible  20  miles.  Cape 
Canaveral,  147  miles  nearly  north,  and  the  lighthouse  on 
Fowey  Rocks,  94  miles  nearly  south,  are  the  nearest  neigh- 
bors of  this  lonely  tower,  which  was  established  here  in  1860 
and  save  during  the  four  years  of  civil  war  has  not  failed. 
From  the  lantern  gallery  one  may  see,  in  clear  weather, 
more  than  forty  miles  up  and  down  the  coast,  and  across  the 
intervening  forest  nearly  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Okeecho- 
bee. To  the  northward  may  be  traced  the  courses  of  Ju- 
piter Sound,  North  Fork,  and  Northwest  Fork,  while  to  the 


JUPITER  INLET.  217 

southward  are  Southwest  Fork,  and  Lake  Worth  Creek. 
All  these  streams  are  easily  navigable  for  many  miles,  are 
literally  alive  with  fish,  and  receive  numerous  tributaries 
which  can  be  ascended  in  canoes  or  small  boats  into  the 
heart  of  the  wilderness.  Lake  Worth  Creek  is  navigable 
with  a  short  carry  to  the  lake,  but  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
find  the  right  channel  without  a  guide.  As  a  rule  all  the 
streams  in  this  region  become  very  crooked  near  their 
sources,  and  the  various  channels  are  so  often  involved  that 
the  explorer  should  not  forget  to  mark  the  different  openings 
wherever  the  current  fails  to  indicate  the  true  course. 

There  is  no  better  fishing  on  the  coast  than  is  found  at 
Jupiter  Inlet.  Bluefish,  bass,  pompano,  cavaille,  runners, 
ladyfish,  sheepshead,  and  other  varieties  are  taken  with  the 
rod.  Tar^jon  are  found  here,  but  will  rarely  take  bait  be- 
fore May  or  June.  Sharks  abound  at  the  inlet  and  may 
be  caught  with  suitable  tackle  in  the  channel  or  from  the 
steamboat  wharf.  Panthers  and  wild  cats  still  prowl  about 
the  settlement  at  night,  and  bears  frequent  the  hammocks  and 
islands  along  the  water-courses.  Deer  and  turkeys  are 
pretty  well  hunted  off  by  the  Indians,  who  range  as  far  north 
as  this  from  their  haunts  in  the  everglades,  but  with  the  aid 
of  guides  good  sport  may  be  had  "by  hunters  who  are  not 
afraid  of  hard  work. 

The  lighthouse  settlement  includes  a  signal  station,  with 
a  complete  outfit  of  instruments.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  ser- 
geant in  charge  to  transmit  to  Washington  daily  weather  re- 
ports, and  as  this  station  is  the  most  southerly  on  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  his  warnings  of  cyclonic  storms  are  often  of  great 
importance.  He  also  signals  passing  vessels  and  reports 
them  for  the  benefit  of  merchants.  A  Government  telegraph 
line  runs  from  this  point  to  Titusville,  so  that  there  is  easy 
communication  with  the  North. 

Jupiter  may  be  regarded  as  the  northern  limit  of  the  cocoa 
palm.  A  fine  large  tree  in  full  bearing  stands  at  the  foot  of 
the  bluff  below  the  lighthouse.  A  few  miles  farther  north, 
on  the  east  side  of  Jupiter  Sound,  there  is  a  thriving  group 
of  young  trees,  but  north  of  this  latitude  their  existence  is 
somewhat  precarious. 


218  JUPITER  INLET. 

Whence  Jvii^iter  derived  its  name  is  not  certainly  known. 
It  was  occupied  as  a  militaiy  post  dui-ing  the  Indian  war, 
and  two  considerable  engagements  occurred,  one  on  "  Juj^iter 
Creek,"  on  January  15,  1838,  and  the  other  near  the  inlet, 
on  Januaiy  24tli  of  the  same  year.  A  large  number  of  Ind- 
ians were  captured  at  that  time  by  the  United  States  forces. 

Aside  from  the  lightkeepers'  families,  the  life-saving  crew, 
and  the  employees  about  the  hotel  and  wharf,  few  inhabi- 
tants are  discoverable.  There  is,  however,  a  S2)arse  popula- 
tion in  the  vicinity,  and  now  and  then  an  Indian  or  a  hunter 
finds  his  way  to  the  landing  with  game  or  in  search  of  sup- 
plies. 

The  manatee  or  sea-cow  is  still  found  in  this  vicinity, 
though  he  must  be  regarded  as  nearly  extinct.  Inasmuch 
as  this  curious  amphibian  is  perfectly  harmless,  and  since  his 
carcass  is  neither  useful  nor  ornamental,  it  is  hoped  that 
persons  with  firearms  will  deny  themselves  the  pleasure  of 
shedding  his  blood.  Pelicans,  too,  are  far  more  interesting 
alive  than  dead.  They  readily  become  quite  tame  if  not 
molested,  and,  since  they  cannot  be  regarded  as  game 
birds,  all  true  s^jortsmen  should  oppose  their  indiscrimi- 
nate slaughter. 

An  expedition  in  a  small  boat  after  dark  is  very  enjoyable, 
and  often  exciting,  from  the  multitudes  of  fish  that  dash 
against  the  boat,  and  sometimes  leaj)  over  or  into  it  in  frantic 
eftbrts  to  escape  from  their  pursuers.  A  lantern  shown  at  a 
favorable  moment  will  sometimes  bring  mullet  flying  into 
the  boat  by  dozens. 

It  is  interesting  to  stand  on  a  lofty  observatory  after  night- 
fall and  watch  the  revolving  rays  of  the  lighthouse  as 
they  touch  different  points  of  sea  and  shore,  here  penetrat- 
ing a  dark  nook  among  the  mangroves  and  there  lighting 
up  a  stretch  of  beach,  with  white  breakers  on  the  bar.  With 
a  powerful  field-glass  one  may  see  strange  sights  as  the  rays 
search  out  bird,  beast,  or  fish,  under  the  fancied  security  of 
darkness. 

Except  in  very  calm  weather  small  boats  should  not  go 
outside  the  inlet.  The  tide  sets  outward  furiously,  and  no 
one  not  perfectly  familiar  with  the  management  of  boats 


JUPITER   INLET.  219 

sbould  ventiu'e  near  the  narrow  channel.  The  outer  breakers 
are  very  deceptive.  Often  when  tliey  look  quite  harmless 
from  the  beach  they  will  be  found  very  formidable  when 
near  at  hand.  To  be  upset  or  swamped  with  the  tide  run- 
ning ebb  is  a  perilous  mishap. 

One  mile  south  of  the  inlet  is  the  United  States  Life  Sav- 
ing Station.  The  walk  to  it  is  not  difficult,  either  along  the 
beach  or  across  the  point.  In  either  case  turn  to  the  left 
after  leaving  the  wharf  and  follow  the  road  i^ast  the  post- 
office.  Thence  a  foot-path  leads  along  the  sliore  of  the  in- 
let, sometimes  at  the  waterside,  and  sometimes  among  the 
trees,  to  the  ocean  beach,  where  the  station  will  be  seen  about 
one  mile  to  the  right.  If  the  old  trail  to  Lake  Worth  be 
followed  it  will  be  found  to  lead  southward  through  a  low 
growth  of  scrub  and  cedars.  A  walk  of  twenty  minutes  will 
bring  the  station  in  sight  to  the  eastward.  A  trail  has  been 
cleared  to  the  road  nearly  opposite  the  station. 

There  is  no  danger  of  losing  one's  bearings  anywhere  be- 
tween the  railroad  and  the  ocean,  for  the  sound  of  the  surf 
is  a  sure  guide,  and  both  beach  and  raih'oad  track  lead 
directly  to  the  hotel.  The  Life  Saving  Station  was  estab- 
lished in  1885.  Seven  men  are  continually  on  duty,  and, 
though  no  wrecks  have  occurred  since  the  house  was  built, 
coasting  craft  often  come  to  grief  at  the  inlet  and  require  as- 
sistance. There  are  weekly  drills  in  all  the  operations  of  the 
■wrecking  service,  launching  the  boat  through  the  surf,  gun- 
practice.,  signalling,  etc.  It  is  always  intei'esting  to  witness 
these  exercises,  often  involving  skilled  handling  of  the  life- 
boat in  heavy  rollers. 

The  bea^h  on  either  side  of  the  inlet  is  strewn  with  sun- 
cured  sponges,  sea-beans,  cocoanuts,  and  a  hundred  strange 
forms  of  animal  and  vegetable  life  swept  up  from  the  coral 
reefs  by  the  Gulf  Stream,  whose  dark  waters  may  often  be 
seen  a  few  miles  off  shore.  Mangroves,  aloes,  gum  alimbo, 
sea-grapes,  and  here  and  there  a  cocoa  palm,  are  among  the 
wild  growths  that  are  found  along  these  beaches  and  wooded 
knolls.  Here  the  mangrove  assumes  its  subtropical  vigor, 
and  it  may  afford  amusement  to  athletes  to  penetrate  a  man- 
grove swamp  by  walking  and  climbing  from  root  to  root  for 


220  JUPITER   INLET. 

a  few  hundred  yards.  Along  the  shore  of  the  bight  that 
makes  in  to  tlie  south  of  the  inlet  sand  has  drifted  among 
the  mangroves,  and  there  is  good  walking  in  all  directions. 
It  is  worth  a  visit  to  study  close  at  hand  the  pictui'esque 
and  uncanny  shapes  assumed  by-this  strange  tree  that  is  con- 
stantly encroaching  on  the  sea,  filling  up  inlets  and  making 
islands  that  eventually  become  a  part  of  the  continent. 

The  outer  ocean  beach,  or  ijeninsula,  from  Cape  Canaveral 
southward,  varies  in  width  from  a  few  hundred  feet  to  a  mile 
or  more.  Sometimes  it  is  barren  and  sometimes  covered 
with  a  fine  forest  gi'owth  of  jsine  or  hardwood.  At  intervals 
diflferent  inlets  open  or  close  according  to  some  law  depend- 
ent on  shifting  currents,  and  on  the  amount  of  rainfall  in 
the  interior'.  At  different  times  within  the  jiresent  century 
inlets  have  existed  at  Indian  River  Inlet,  St.  Lucie  Rocks, 
and  Gilbert's  Bar,  but  for  several  years  they  have  all  been 
closed.  During  the  summer  of  1889  Indian  River  Inlet  re- 
opened and  a  channel  formed  with  three  feet  of  water  at  low 
tide,  Jupiter  Inlet  closing  at  about  the  same  time. 

At  intervals  along  the  beach  are  houses  of  refuge,  estab- 
lished by  the  United  States  Government  for  the  relief  of 
shipwrecked  mariners.  These  differ  from  life-saving  stations 
in  that  no  full  crew  is  permanently  on  duty.  A  keejjer 
is  always  at  hand,  and  an  ample  supply  of  provisions 
is  kept  in  store.  Each  station  has  a  lifeboat,  which  in 
case  of  need  can  be  manned  by  a  volunteer  crew.  On  the 
Indian  River  beach  there  are  such  houses  at  Chester  Shoal, 
one  mile  and  a  half  north  of  False  Cape  ;  at  Cajje  Malabar  ; 
at  Bethel  Creek,  ten  miles  north  of  Indian  River  Inlet ;  at  a 
point  just  south  of  Indian  River  Inlet,  and  at  Gilbert's  Bar. 
At  intervals  of  a  mile  along  the  beach  signboards  are  set  up 
giving  the  distance  and  direction  of  the  nearest  house  of  re- 
fuge. Regular  life-sa\dng  stations  are  hardly  necessary  along 
this  beach,  as  vessels  usually  take  the  ground  in  such  a  way 
that  with  the  exercise  of  ordinary  seamanship  no  lives  need 
be  lost.  Food  and  drink,  however,  are  not  readily  to  be 
found,  and  the  houses  of  refuge  often  afford  needed  relief. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  landings  and  distances  on  the 
Indian  River.      The   steamboats  touch   only  on  signal  at 


JUPITER   INLET.  221 

many  of  the  places  named.  W.  indicates  the  west  bank  or 
mainland.  Distances  going  south  on  the  right,  north  on 
the  left. 

154 Titosville,  W 0 

142 Hardeeville,  W 12 

140 Courtney  (Merritt's  Island) 14 

139  Faber's,  W 15 

137 Sharp's  (Merritt's  Island) IT 

136 City  Point,  W 18 

132 Merritt  (Merritt's  Island) 22 

130 Cocoa,  W 24 

129 Haidee's,  W 25 

128 Rockledge,  W 2G 

126 Paxton's,  W  ...  28 

125 Magriidei's 29 

123 Georgiana  (Merritt's  Island) 31 

121 Whitfield  (Merritt's  Island) 83 

117 Brantley  (Meiritt's  Island) 37 

112 Tropic  (Merritt's  Island) 42 

104 Eau  Gallie,  W 50 

103 Melbourne,  W 51 

96 Tillman,  W 58 

94 Malabar,  W 60 

86 . . .   Miceo,  W 68 

81 Sebastian,  W 73 

74 O. chid  (Peninsula) 80 

71 Enos  (Peninsula) 83 

68 Narrows  (Peninsula) 86 

48 St.  Lucie.  W 106 

45 FortPieice,  W 119 

38 Aukona,  W 116 

31 Eden,  W 123 

24 Waveland,  W 130 

0 Jupiter,  W 154 


95.  Jupiter  Inlet  to   Lake   Worth. 

By  Jupiter  &  Lake  Worth  Railway,  8  miles  (30  minutes).  By  boat,  10  miles 
f.om  inlet  to  inlet. 

The  trip  from  Jupiter  to  Lake  Worth  is  now  accomi^lished 
in  a  few  minutes.  Until  the  season  of  1889-90  it  was  a  tedi- 
ous ride  of  three  hours  over  a  heavy  road,  where  the  horses 
could  rarely  move  faster  than  a  walk.  The  ocean  beach  in 
this  vicinity  is  not  available  for  driving.  A  good  walker 
may  cover  the  distance  between  the  inlets  in  three  hours, 
but  the  sand  is  too  heavy  for  enjoyable  walking. 

The  little  railroad,  with  its  galaxy  of  mythological  names, 
IJrudently  takes  shelter  behind  the  beach  ridge  throughout  its 
course.  Here  and  there  through  gaps  in  the  ridge  glimj^ses 
are  caught  of  an  emerald  sea  and  snowy  breakers.  On 
the  landward  "side  there  i»!  but  little  to  break  the  monotony 


222  jupu'ER  inlet— lake  worth. 

of  saw  palmetto,  and  beach  scrub.  The  intermediate  sta- 
tions of  Venus  and  Mars  passed,  Little  Lake  Worth  is  pres- 
ently seen  on  the  left,  a  small,  shallow  pond,  connected 
with  the  larger  lake  by  a  narrow  channel.  The  headwaters 
of  Lake  Worth  Creek  are  about  one  mile  to  the  westward, 
navigable  for  canoes  and  ojieniug  here  and  there  into  small 
lakes,  but  largely  filled  with  saw-grass  and  lily-pads,  and 
with  nothing  to  distinguish  the  main  channel  from  count- 
less branches. 

The  outside  trip  is  highly  enjoyable  in  fine  weather.  It 
should  not,  however,  be  undertaken  save  under  favorable 
conditions  of  wind  and  tide,  as  the  inlets  are  very  treacher- 
ous by  reason  of  shifting  sand  and  swift  currents.  With  a 
fair  wind  the  round  trip  may  easily  be  made  in  a  day  in  a 
sailboat,  but  the  chances  of  being  becalmed  must  always  be 
considered. 


100.  Lake  Worth,  Dade  County. 

By  boat  and  rail  from  Titnsville,  162  miles. 

Hotels. — Coconnut  Grove  House,  Palm  Beach,  $2.50  a  day,  $10  a  week. — Oak- 
lawn  House,  Oaklavvn,  $2  to  $2.50  a  day,  $10  to  $12  a  \\ee]i..— Hotel  Lake  Worth, 
$3  a  day. 

Like  the  more  extensive  lagoons  to  the  northward.  Lake 
Worth  is  a  long,  narrow  body  of  water,  separated  from  the 
sea  by  a  ridge  of  hammock,  sand,  and  savannah,  and  with  a 
shallow  inlet  through  which  the  ocean  tides  ebb  and  flow. 
Beyond  this  lake  to  the  southward  there  are  no  regular 
lines  of  travel.  The  next  post-office  in  that  direction  is  on 
Biscayne  Bay,  fifty  miles  distant,  and  the  mail  is  carried 
once  a  week  by  a  messenger,  who  walks  the  beach  with  the 
pouch  on  his  back,  and  navigates  the  intervening  inlets  and 
creeks  in  canoes. 

Lake  Worth,  however,  has  proved  very  attractive  to  North- 
ern residents.  The  water  side  is  lined  for  three  miles  or 
more  with  tasteful  cottages  and  costly  mansions,  where 
Northerners  who  dread  a  severe  winter  may  lead  an  almost 
ideal  existence. 

The  lake  is  twenty-two  miles  long,  with  an  average  width 
of  about  one  mile,  and  a  channel  depth  of  from  six  to  twelv6 


LAKE   WORTH.  223 

feet.  The  inlet  lias  about  five  feet  of  water  at  low  tide. 
The  temperature  of  Lake  Worth  is  largely  influenced  by  the 
Gulf  Stream,  which  runs  close  in  shore  at  this  point,  the 
most  easterly  of  Florida,  and  here  the  influence  of  the  trade 
winds  makes  itself  felt  in  equalizing  the  climatic  conditions. 
The  normal  winter  temperature  is  about  7i>°,  falling  to  50° 
or  60°  under  the  influence  of  "northers." 

In  its  modern  aspect  Lake  Worth  dates  back  only  to  1875, 
but  the  rich  hammocks  along  the  shores  were  evidently  un- 
der civilized  cultivation  centuries  ago.  No  record  is  known 
to  exist  of  a  European  settlement,  but  the  existence  of  canals 
and  ruins  points  unmistakably  to  a  forgotten  period,  prob- 
ably of  Spanish  occuj^ancy. 

The  favored  garden  region  of  the  lake  is  along  its  eastern 
shore,  with  the  heavily  wooded  peninsula  to  serve  as  protec- 
tion from  ocean  gales,  and  a  marvelloiisly  jiroductive  soil  to 
foster  the  growth  of  fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables. 

All  kinds  of  sea-fish  abound  in  the  lake  ;  bluefish,  sea- 
trout,  pompano,  Spanish  mackerel,  barracuda,  tarpon,  and 
the  multitudinous  mullet  are  caught,  or  *'  grained,"  accord- 
ing to  their  size  and  habits.  Government  surveys  have  been 
jnished  only  about  twelve  miles  to  the  westward.  The 
wilderness,  speedily  merging  into  the  everglades,  begins  al- 
most with  the  lake  shore.  Beyond  the  ridge  that  bounds 
the  view  to  the  westward  is  a  chain  of  fresh-water  lakes,  some 
twelve  feet  higher  than  the  sea  level ;  then  comes  the  pine 
forest,  and  then  the  "glades."  Large  game  is  to  be  found 
throughout  this  region.  Guides  are  almost  indispensable  for 
successful  hunting. 

In  January,  1879,  the  misfortune  of  the  Spanish  bark 
Providencia  proved  a  god-send  to  Lake  Worth.  She  was 
cast  away  on  the  coast,  and  her  cargo  of  20,000  cocoanuts 
distributed  itself  impartially  for  miles  up  and  down  the 
beach.  Many  thousands  of  the  nuts  were  gathered  and 
planted  (laid  on  the  ground,  that  is)  in  rows,  in  circles, 
singly,  and  in  groups,  with  the  result  that  now  the  cocoa 
palm  lifts  its  graceful  fronds  above  every  roof,  lines  walks 
and  avenues,  and  lends  a  tropical  aspect  to  the  whole  settle- 
ment. 


224  LAKE  WORTH. 

A  natui'al  sea-wall  is  formed  along  the  sliore  hj  the  under- 
lying coralline  rock,  and  some  of  the  more  wealthy  residents, 
not  satisfied  with  this,  have  added  an  artificial  wall.  No 
fences  interrui^t  the  pedestrian  along  this  charming  water- 
side. A  smooth  walk,  shaded  and,  for  the  most  part,  well- 
kept,  tempts  to  extended  excursions,  and  leads  at  intervals 
through  i^rivate  grounds  that  are  marvels  of  beauty.  Olean- 
ders and  jioncianas  here  are  trees  twenty  or  thirty  feet  high, 
gigantic  cacti  stand  like  sentinels  on  the  lawns  ;  the  hibis- 
cus, red,  white,  and  yellow,  lavishes  its  blossoms  in  every 
garden,  and  mangoes,  guavas,  limes,  lemons,  oranges,  figs, 
dates,  bananas,  and  pineapples  grow  wherever  they  are  per- 
mitted to  take  root.  The  west  shore  is  best  adapted  for 
pineajiples,  and  already  the  shipments  amount  to  a  consid- 
erable item  in  the  annual  returns. 

From  nearly  every  house  a  walk  or  trail  leads  across  the 
peninsula  to  the  ocean  beach,  where  a  magnificent  surf  comes 
rushing  in  warm  from  the  Gulf  Stream,  and  laden  with 
shells  and  marine  curiosities  that  tempt  collectors  to  wander 
for  miles  along  the  sands  in  search  of  sea-fans,  fragments  of 
coral,  Portuguese-men-of-war,  sponges,  sea-beans,  echinse, 
and  countless  other  waifs  that  one  may  often  he  at  a  loss  to 
name. 

South-bound  steamers  keep  close  along  the  beach  to  avoid 
the  current  that  rushes  northward  at  the  rate  of  ionv  or  five 
miles  an  hour  a  little  farther  oflf  shore.  Rarely  a  day  passes 
that  several  of  these  fine  vessels  are  not  seen,  while  out  in 
the  stream  northward-bound  craft  are  speeding  in  the  opjDO- 
site  direction  with  wind  and  tide  in  their  favor. 

After  an  easterly  gale  the  beach  is  sure  to  be  particularly 
interesting,  since  the  accumulation  of  curiosities  and  general 
wreckage  is  largely  increased. 

The  highest  point  on  the  peninsula  is  sixty-five  feet  above 
the  sea  level.  The  land  rises  somewhat  near  the  lake,  and 
again  into  a  wide  ridge  near  the  ocean ;  between  these  is  a 
low  and  naturally  marshy  tract,  which  has  been  lai'gely 
drained  and  utilized  for  the  cultivation  of  vegetables. 
Strangers  should  not  shoot  alligators  near  the  cultivated 
tracts,  as  some  of  them  are  half  tame,  and  are  preserved  by 


LAKE  WORTH.  225 

the  owners  of  the  land.  Elsewhere  shooting  is  allowable. 
Deer  are  still  found  on  the  peninsula ;  rabbits  and  various 
game  birds  abound,  and  there  is  a  chance  for  a  wildcat  in 
the  denser  cover.  There  are  five  principal  landings  and  nu- 
merous i^rivate  landings,  where  the  small  steamers  that  ply 
on  the  lake  stop  on  signal. 

At  Juno,  the  terminus  of  the  railroad,  passengers  board 
one  of  the  steamers  which  presently  starts  down  the 
lake. 

About  one  mile  south,  beyond  a  low  point,  is  the  haulover 
or  carry,  where  canoes  may  be  hauled  across  one-half  mile 
to  a  small  pond,  the  source  of  Lake  Worth  Creek,  navigable 
for  small  boats  to  Jupiter. 

Pelican  Island  is  passed  on  the  right.  Formerly  this  was 
the  resort  of  countless  birds;  "a  roost,"  as  it  was  locally 
called.  Now  it  is  a  most  attractive  place,  with  fine  live  oaks, 
a  handsome  house,  and  well-cared-for  grounds.  It  is,  in 
fact,  an  exceptionally  rich  tract,  guano  deposits  of  former 
years  adding  greatly  to  its  fertility. 

Oak  Lawn  (P.O.),  six  miles  from  Juno,  with  its  hotel,  is 
on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  a  fine  bluff  crowned  with  trees 
rising  from  the  waterside.  It  is  nearly  opi)osite  the  inlet, 
and  the  fishing  here  is  probably  as  good  as  anywhere  on  the 
lake,  while  fine  shooting  is  to  be  found  within  easy  walking 
distance  in  any  direction  along  shore,  or  among  the  savan- 
nahs and  woods  to  the  westward. 

Lake  Worth  (P.O.),  eight  miles  from  Juno,  is  pleasantly 
situated  about  one  mile  south  of  the  inlet.  Here  begins  the 
continuous  line  of  houses  that  stretches  along  the  eastern 
shore.  Prominent  among  these  are  the  residences  of  Charles 
I.  Cragin,  of  Philadelphia,  Mrs.  F.  Lane,  of  New  York,  and 
E.  K.  McCormick,  of  Denver,  all  of  which  are  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  their  surroundings.  In  general  the  pro- 
prietors are  glad  to  have  visitors  enjoy  their  gi-ounds,  but 
permission  should  of  course  be  asked  if  it  is  desired  to  in- 
spect the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  houses. 

Palm  Beach  (P.O.),  eight  and  one-half  miles  from  Juno, 
is  fairly  embowered  in  cocoa  palms.  The  hotel  especially 
has  around  it  a  large  number  of  fine  specimens,  with  a  large 


226  LAKE  WORTH. 

royal  i^ionceana,  "whistling  trees,"  hung  full  of  curious 
pods,  and  numerous  other  curiosities  in  plant  life.  There  is 
a  good  country  store  a  short  distance  north  of  the  hotel,  and 
charming  walks,  either  to  the  Ijeach,  where  there  is  a  bath- 
house (key  at  the  hotel),  or  along  the  lake  shore  in  either 
direction. 

Figulus  (P.O.),  eleven  miles  from  Juno,  is  on  the  east 
shore  of  the  lake,  and  Hypoluxo  (P.O.),  sixteen  miles  from 
Juno,  occupies  an  island,  the  southern  end  of  which  extends 
to  within  about  one  mile  of  the  foot  of  the  lake,  where  there 
is  a  "haulover"  to  the  ocean  beach,  the  small  creek  that 
reaches  a  short  distance  to  the  southward  being  imjiractica- 
ble  even  for  canoes. 


101.  The  Sea-coast  South  of  Lake  Worth. 

From  Lake  Worth  Inlet  south  for  thirty  miles  to  Hillsboro 
Inlet  the  beach  is  unbroken.  About  half-way,  however,  is 
the  Orange  Grove  house  of  refuge,  where  shelter,  food, 
and  water  may  be  olitained.  Five  miles  south  of  this  the 
headwaters  of  Hillsboro  River  unite  a  few  hundred  yards 
from  the  beach,  forming  a  little  lake  about  three  feet  deep. 
One-half  mile  farther  south  is  Lake  Wyman,  four  to  five  feet 
deep,  and  with  a  connecting  channel  navigable  for  small 
boats  to  Lake  Boca  Eat  one  and  the  Hillsboro  River. 

At  the  inlet  is  a  branch  stream  from  the  southward  that 
closely  follows  the  beach  for  three  miles,  ending  in  a  shallow 
lake. 

Eight  miles  south  of  Hillsboro  Inlet  is  the  Fort  Lauderdale 
house  of  refuge,  to  the  westward  of  which ^  about  one-half 
mile,  the  headwaters  of  New  River  and  its  tributaries  offer 
inland  passage  for  small  boats. 

New  River  Inlet  is  fifteen  miles  south  of  Hillsboro  Inlet, 
the  river  so-called  being  a  narrow  lagoon,  about  five  miles 
long,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  low  ridge  of  sand  and  divid- 
ing at  the  head  into  an  infinite  number  of  tributaries  and 
lakes  with  a  depth  of  water  varying  from  three  to  ten  feet 
in  the  channels.     The  upper  reaches  of  the  river  are  very 


LAKE  WORTH.  227 

wild  and  beautiful.  At  this  writing  (1890)  there  are  no  per- 
manent settlers,  save  Indians  whose  cainps  can  hardly  be 
considered  permanent.  Two  miles  south  of  the  house  of 
refuge  is  a  conspicuous  group  of  cocoa  palms  on  the 
beach. 

Eight  miles  south  of  New  Eiver  Inlet  is  a  "  haulover," 
where  a  lake  known  as  Dumfounding  Bay  approaches  within 
one-quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  beach.  Thence  to  the  head- 
waters of  Biscayne  Bay,  about  two  miles,  navigation  is  com- 
paratively easy  for  small  boats,  though  the  channel  is  very 
crooked.  Biscayne  Bay  house  of  refuge  is  about  sixteen 
miles  south  of  New  Eiver  Inlet  and  eight  miles  north  of 
Norris  Cut  the  most  northerly  entrance  to  Biscayne 
Bay. 

From  Lake  Worth  to  Norris  Cut  the  beach  offers  but 
unsatisfactory  foothold  for  man  or  beast.  For  near  fifty 
miles  it  is  uninhabited,  drinkable  water  is  very  scarce,  and 
there  is  little  to  attract  the  explorer  except  the  perpetual 
beauty  of  the  ocean  and  the  navigable  inland  waters  con- 
nected with  Hillsboro  and  New  River  Inlets. 

A  company  of  speculators  a  few  years  since  planted  an  en- 
ormous number  of  cocoanuts  along  this  beach  with  a  view  to 
the  sale  of  building  lots.  The  trees  have  been  left  to  caro 
for  themselves,  but  many  of  them  have  grown,  and  it  is  quite 
possible  that  in  a  few  years  they  will  materially  change  the 
aspect  of  the  coast.  For  Biscayne  Bay,  the  Florida  Eeef, 
etc.,  see  p.  310. 


The  Gulf  Coast. 

From  St.  Mark's  on  the  noitli  to  Cape  Sable,  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  i)eninsiila,  is  a  stretch  of  more  than  four 
hundred  miles.  At  Tampa  Bay,  Charlotte  Harbor,  and  San 
Carlos  Bay,  the  outlying  reefs  and  shallows  open  in  deep 
channels,  affording  entrance  for  large  sea-going  craft ;  else- 
where the  underlying  rock  of  the  peninsula  slopes  so  gradu- 
ally gulf  ward  that  the  "  ten-fathom  curve,"  as  laid  down  on 
the  charts,  is  often  out  of  sight  of  land.  Although  almost 
everywhere  there  are  scattered  lines  of  keys  and  reefs  close 
along  shore,  there  is  nothing  that  resembles  the  great  la- 
goons of  the  east  coast.  Small  vessels  of  shallow  draft  can 
pass  inside  the  keys  and  find  a  haven  at  the  mouths  of  many 
of  the  rivers,  but  even  these  must  give  a  wide  berth  to  count- 
less oyster  bars  and  rocky  reefs  known  only  to  the  native 
pilots. 

Between  Tarpon  Springs  and  Punta  Rassa,  a  distance  of 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  the  coast  is  com- 
paratively high,  wooded  bluffs  rising  from  the  water's  edge. 
Elsewhere,  with  few  exceptions,  the  bluffs  and  high  ham- 
mocks are  several  miles  inland,  and  the  coast  mainly  con- 
sists of  mangrove  islands. 

From  St.  Mark's  to  Cedar  Key  there  is  hardly  a  settlement 
within  ten  miles  of  the  sea,  and  from  Cedar  Key  southward 
again  there  are  other  long  reaches  of  uninhabited  coast.  To 
the  cruiser  who  is  provided  with  a  suitable  craft  this  region 
offers  endless  opportunities  for  sport  on  land  and  water,  both 
of  which  yield  abundant  supplies  for  his  larder,  while  his 
fresh-water  tanks  can  be  replenished  at  any  time  by  ascend- 
ing one  of  the  numerous  rivers  that  here  find  an  outlet. 
Some  of  these  streams  afford  access  to  hammocks  where  the 
game  has  not  yet  been  thinned  out  by  Northern  gunners. 

In  climate  the  Gulf  coast  is  somewhat  more  equable  than 
that  of  the  Atlantic.  Raw  easterly  winds  are  unknown,  and 
westerly  winds,  blowing  across  the  very  fountain-head  of  the 
Gulf  Stream,  are  necessarily  tempered  by  its  i^erennial 
warmth. 


THE  GULP  COAST— CEDAR  KEY.       229 

Owing  to  the  character  of  the  shore,  long  coastwise  lines 
of  railway  are  impracticable.  The  great  railway  systems 
stop  when  they  reach  tide-water,  the  sole  exception  being  the 
Orange  Belt,  which  follows  the  coast  for  a  few  miles  south 
of  Tarpon  Springs.  Small  steamers,  generally  well  adapted 
for  the  work  that  is  required  of  them,  jily  between  all  points 
where  there  are  comfortable  accommodations  for  tourists. 

Observations  of  the  United  States  Signal  Service  since 
November,  1879,  give  the  following  as  the  average  mean 
temjierature  at  Cedar  Key:  Spring,  70.3° ;  summer,  81.7°; 
autumn,  72.24°  ;  winter,  60.1°.  The  average  number  of  fair 
days  during  the  winter  and  early  spring  months  is  as  follows : 
November,  24.2;  December,  25.1;  January,  23.8;  Febru- 
ary, 23.2 ;  March,  27 ;  April,  26,  The  mean  relative  humid- 
ity for  the  same  months  averages  for  November,  77.9  per 
cent.;  December,  81.2  jier  cent.;  January,  81.4  per  cent.; 
February,  75.1  per  cent.;  March,  70.7  per  cent.;  April,  69.4 
per  cent.  The  earliest  "killing  frosts"  of  which  the  Service 
has  record  were  December  22, 1880,  December  17,  1882,  De- 
cember 16,  1883,  November  25,  1884. 


110.  Fernandina  to  Cedar  Key. 

By  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula  Railroad,  157  miles  (9  hours  50  min.).  The 
line  crosses  Nassau,  Duval,  Bradford,  Alachua,  and  Levy  Counties  in  a  south- 
westerly direction.  For  maps  see  list  of  counties  and  consult  table  of  contents. 
In  the  context  will  be  found  tables  of  stations,  distances,  etc.,  within  the  respec- 
tive counties.    The  best  hotels  on  the  route  are  at  Gainesville.    See  Route  173, 


111.  Cedar  Key,  Levy  County. 

Population,  2,000.— Lat.  29°  12'  N.  ;  Long.  83°  W. 

Hotels.  —Suwannee  Hotel,  Bettelini  House,  Magnolia  Hniise,  $1.50  to  $2.50  a 
day. 
Railroad.- F.  C.  &  P.,  Cedar  Key  Division. 
Suwannee  River  steamboats. 
Good  general  stores. 
Episcopal  and  Methodist  churches. 

The  town  of  Cedar  Key  stands  on  Way  Key,  one  of  a 
group  of  is4ands  about  four  miles  off  the  coast.  It  is  a  U. 
S.  port  of  entry  with  a  good  harbor  for  vessels  drawing  not 
more  than  12  feet.     As  the  Gulf  terminus  of  the  railroad 


"230  CEDAR  KEY. 

Avliich  was  finislied  to  this  point  in  18G1,  and  then  known 
as  the  Floridd  Transit  Railway,  it  at  once  became  a  i^lace 
of  some  importance.  Dnring  the  civil  war,  owing  to  its  ex- 
jwsed  situation,  it  was  at  the  mercy  of  the  Federal  gunboats, 
and,  since  it  bade  fair  to  be  a  convenient  harbor  for  blockade 
runners,  it  early  paid  the  penalty  for  a  short- lived  prosperity. 

A  descent  was  made  upon  it  January  16,  1862,  when,  as 
the  Federals  doubtless  knew,  there  were  seven  vessels  in  the 
harbor  loaded  with  cotton  and  turpentine,  waiting  for  favor- 
able weather  to  run  the  blockade.  These  were  burned  with 
their  cargoes,  as  were  also  the  wharves  and  rolling  stock  of 
the  railroad.  At  the  time  the  place  was  guarded  by  a  lieu- 
tenant and  22  men  of  the  Fourth  Florida  Regiment,  but  some 
of  the  resident  citizens  begged  that  no  resistance  be  made,  as 
it  was  obviously  hopeless.  The  guard  therefore  attempted  to 
escape  to  the  mainland,  but  most  of  them  were  captured 
by  the  man-of-war's  boats.  After  this,  occasional  visits  by 
U.  S.  cruisers  sufficed  to  prevent  the  place  from  assuming 
any  importance. 

Shortly  after  the  close  of  hostilities,  the  terminal  facilities 
of  the  railroad  were  reconstructed,  and  very  soon  a  consid- 
erable trade  develoijed  in  fish,  oysters,  and  turtle.  Tlie 
abundance  of  red  cedar  in  the  vicinity  led  to  the  establish- 
ment of  pencil  factories  by  Northern  firms,  which  now  em- 
ploy a  large  number  of  hands.  The  coast  to  the  southward 
has  occasional  harbors,  practicable  for  light-draft  boats. 
(S3e  maps,  j^p.  54,  13,  34,  also  descriptions  in  context.) 

The  Suwannee  River  enters  the  Gulf  15  miles  north  of  Ce- 
dar Key.  It  rises  in  Georgia,  west  of  the  great  Okeefenokee 
Swamp,  about  120  miles  from  the  coast.  Its  total  length  is 
about  170  miles.  After  entering  Florida  it  receives  succes- 
sively the  Allaj^aha  and  Little  River  from  the  north,  and  the 
Sante  Fe  from  the  east.  The  main  stream  is  navigable  for 
large  vessels  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Santa  Fe,  and  for 
vessels  drawing  not  more  than  six  feet  as  far  as  Little  River. 
Of  minor  tributaries,  the  Suwannee  has  a  score  or  more, 
draining  a  water-shed  a  hundred  miles  wide,  and  all  nav- 
igable for  canoes,  at  the  ordinary  height  of  water.  The 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  has  naturally  only  five  feet  of 


CEDAR   KEY.  23J 

water,  but  has  been  somewhat  improved  by  dredging.  The 
Suwannee  has  a  rocky  bed  ahnost  throughout  its  course, 
having  cut  a  channel  for  itself  through  the  soft  underlying 
limestone.  At  its  mouth  the  stream  divides,  two  main  chan- 
nels inclosing  Bradford's  Island.  Throughout  the  most  of 
its  course  the  river  passes  throiagh  a  wild  and  beautiful 
semi-tropical  region,  with  excellent  camping  ground  almost 
auYwliere,  fish  and  game  in  plenty,  and  fresii  water  always 
at  hand.  Many  fine  springs  are  found  along  the  banks  ; 
some  of  them  hardly  surpassed  by  the  more  famous  ones 
described  elsewhere.  The  popular  song,  commonly  known 
by  the  name  of  this  beautiful  stream,  but  whose  proper  title 
is  "  The  Old  Folks  at  Home,"  was  written  by  Stephen  Col- 
lins Foster,  author  of  "  O  Susanna  "  and  many  similar  melo- 
dies that  have  gained  world-wide  popularity.  Mr.  Foster 
was  born  in  Pittsburg  in  1826,  and  died  in  New  York  in 
1864. 

A  small  Confederate  steamer  groimded  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Suwannee  River  and  was  captured  by  a  boat  from  the  U. 
S.  blockading  schooner  Fox,  on  December  20,  1863.  Four 
days  afterward  the  British  schooner  Edwin  attempted  to  run 
the  blockade  with  a  cargo  of  lead  and  salt,  and  was  also 
taken  by  the  Fox  after  some  show  of  resistance,  during 
which  the  captain  was  wounded. 

The  Wakassassd  River  rises  in  Alachua  County,  and  runs 
southeasterly  through  a  fine  grazing  country,  feeding  and 
draining  a  succession  of  small  lakes  and  ponds.  Near  the 
mouth  of  the  stream  are  evidences  of  Indian  settlement  and 
cultivation.  The  stream  is  navigable  for  small  steamers 
to  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  Gulf,  but  the  bar  is  shallow 
and  impassable  save  for  light-draft  boats.  It  enters  the  Gulf 
12  miles  west  of  Cedar  Key.  Its  numerous  branches  flow 
through,  Gulf  Hammock,  a  wild  region  full  of  game,  and 
easily  accessible  either  from  Otter  Creek  station  on  the  rail- 
road, or  by  boat  from  Cedar  Key.     (Hotel  at  Gulf  Hammock. ) 

The  Withlacoochee  is  the  only  river  on  the  Gulf  coast  of  Flor- 
ida that,  like  the  larger  St.  John's  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
peninsula,  takes  a  northerly  course.  Itrises  nearly  in  the  same 
latitude  with  the  St.  Johns,  and  after  running  a  little  east  of  it 


232  CEDAR   KEY. 

for  GO  miles,  turns  to  the  westward  and  falls  into  tiie  Gulf  20 
miles  S.E.  of  Cedar  Key.  It  is  a  swift  stream  with  rocky 
bottom,  high  wooded,  picturesque  banks,  and  navigable  to 
Pemberton  Ferry,  where  the  J.  T.  &  K.  W.  Ey.  system 
crosses  it.  About  18  miles  from  the  mouth  it  receives  Blue 
Spring  Eiver,  navigable  for  launches  to  its  source,  and  well 
worth  a  visit.    Route  183. 


120.  Jacksonville  to  Homosassa. 

By  Silver  Springs,  Ocala  &  Gulf  Railroad,  176  miles  ;  (9  hours) ;  Jacksonville 
to  Palatka.    See  Koute  40. 

The  main  line  of  the  Florida  Southern  Railway  runs  west- 
ward from  Palatka  through  a  rolling  country,  often  diversi- 
fied with  lakes  and  frequently  passing,  as  at  Interlaken  and 
McMeekin,  within  sight  of  beautiful  residences  and  fine  plan- 
tations and  orange  groves.  There  is  choice  between  two 
routes  to  Ocala,  namely  at  Hawthorne  and  Rochelle.  At  the 
first-named  junction  a  branch  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  railway  nins 
southward  to  Silver  Spring  and  Ocala,  crossing  Orange 
Lake  on  a  long  trestle,  and  passing  at  Citra  through  some  of 
the  most  remarkable  orange-groves  in  the  State.  (See  Route 
111.)  The  other  coiirse  is  to  follow  the  main  line  to  Ro- 
chelle, where  a  branch  of  the  Florida  Southern  Railway 
diverges  southward  to  Ocala,  passing  through  a  beautiful 
country  devoid  of  the  almost  universal  undergrowth  of  pal- 
metto scrub,  and  covered  with  a  fine  open  forest  of  hard 
woods  through  which  one  may  ride,  walk,  or  drive  at  will  in 
any  direction.  Changing  to  the  Silver  Springs,  Ocala  &  Gulf 
Railroad  at  Ocala,  the  direction  is  southwesterly  through 
a  region  remarkable  for  its  rich  j^hosphatc  beds  and  beautiful 
springs  to  the  Gulf  terminus  at  Homosassa.  At  Palatka  and 
Ocala,  there  are  excellent  hotels  if  the  traveller  wishes  to 
make  the  trip  by  short  stages.  The  journey  may  be  varied 
by  leaving  the  train  at  Palatka  and  ascending  the  Ocklawaha 
River  (Route  181)  to  Silver  Springs,  which  is  but  a  few  min- 
utes ride  from  Ocala.  The  journey  by  rail  crosses  Duval, 
Clay,  Putnam,  Marion,  and  Citrus  Counties,  maps  of  which, 
with  descriptive  context,  stations,  distances,  etc.,  may  be 
found  in  alphabetical  order,  pp.  1  to  102  of  this  handbook. 


HOMOSASSA.  233 

121.  Homosassa,  Citrus  County. 

Lat.  28°  48'  N.,  Long.  82°  40'  W. 

Hotel.— r/ie  Homosassa  Inn,  $2.50  a  day.    Board,  $1  to  $1.50  a  day. 
Railroad. — Silver  Springs,  Ocala  A  Gulf  Railroad. 

Steamboats  to  the  vVithlacoochee  River  and  Gulf  coast.  Rowboats,  50c. 
to  75c.  a  day ;  with  oarsmen,  |1  to  $1.50  a  day.    Hunters  and  guides,  $2  a  day. 

"River  of  Fishes"  is  the  modern  translation  of  Homo- 
sassa, though  some  of  the  early  authorities  on  Florida  say- 
that  it  means  "PejDper  Eidge."  It  was  certainly  a  favorite 
resort  of  the  native  tribes  in  prehistoric  times,  as  is  abund- 
antly proven  by  evidences  of  ancient  cultivation,  and  by  great 
shell  mounds  along  the  water-side. 

The  land  is  low  and  level  along  the  coast,  very  rich  and  fer- 
tile, and  largely  underlaid  with  disintegrated  limestone-rock. 
It  is  covered  with  a  remarkably  dense  hammock  growth  of 
palms,  wild  orange,  live  oak,  magnolia,  and  the  ordinary  hard 
woods,  in  unusual  profusion  and  luxuriance.  The  river,  fed 
by  numerous  fiue  springs,  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  rather  than  a 
fresh-water  stream,  and  is  justly  famed  for  its  fine  fishing, 
while  the  adjacent  islands  and  the  mainland  are  amoiig  the 
best  hunting  grounds  in  Florida.  Large  tracts  of  land  have 
been  acquired  in  this  vicinity  by  a  company  of  capitalists, 
surveys  have  been  made,  avenues  cut  tlirough  the  hammock, 
and  every  effort  made  to  attract  permanent  settlers  as  well  as 
transient  visitors.  Probably  there  is  no  better  or  richer 
soil  in  the  State  for  most  of  the  semi-tropical  crops. 

Before  the  civil  war  (1861  to  18C5)  large  sugar  plantations 
were  under  cultivation  along  the  river,  notably  the  one  on 
Tiger  Tail  Island,  the  property  at  that  time  of  United 
States  Senator  D.  L.  Yulee,  who,  with  a  wide  knowledge  of 
Florida,  selected  this  region  as  the  best  suited  for  the  resid- 
ence of  a  Southern  gentleman.  He  was  in  active  sympathy 
with  the  secession  movement  in  1860-1861,  and  Homosassa 
as  well  as  Bayport,  fifteen  miles  south,  became  harbors  of 
refuge  for  blockade  runners  of  light  draft  after  Cedar  Key 
had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  Federals.  The  author  is  in- 
debted to  Captain  C.  T.  Jenkins,  of  pomosassa,  now  (in 
1890)  nearly  eighty  years  old,  for  the  following  account  of 
the  events  of  the  time,   which,   unimportant  as  comjoared 


234  HOMOSASSA. 

with  the  great  militai  v  ojierations  elsewhere,  are  now  of  in- 
terest. 

Crystal  River,  Homosassa,  and  Bayiiort  were  ganisoned 
by  small  detachments  of  Confederates  under  Captain  John 
Chambers.  At  Bayport  there  were  25  men  with  one  piece 
of  artillery.  Only  five  families  remained  in  the  place,  that 
of  Captain  Jenkins  being  among  them.  In  April,  18G3,  an 
expedition  consisting  of  seven  boats  with  howitzers  came 
down  from  Cedar  Key  and  shelled  the  place,  the  little  garri- 
son responding  so  manfully  that  no  permanent  landing  was 
effected.  In  June  Caj^tain  Jenkins  was  captured  and  held 
prisoner,  for  political  as  well  as  for  military  reasons,  until 
the  conclusion  of  jjeace.  In  July,  1863,  Bayport  was  again 
shelled,  and  a  large  warehouse  burned.  Thence  the  expedi- 
tion went  to  Homosassa,  but  Mr.  Yulee  and  family  had  gone 
to  Ocala  and  only  the  house  servants  were  left  in  charge. 
The  plantations  on  Tiger  Tail  Island  were  pillaged,  and  a 
warehouse  was  burned  at  Chafie  Landing,  the  greater  part 
of  the  damage  being  done  by  deserters  and  runaway  negroes, 
after  the  United  States  troops  had  withdrawn.  Bayport  was 
again  visited  by  a  naval  force  in  July,  1864,  and  again  the  de- 
serters and  runaway  negroes  followed,  plundering  after  the 
regular  forces  had  left,  and  burning  all  unoccupied  houses. 
Captain  Jenkins  is  particular  to  say  that  the  navy  had  no 
hand  in  the  wholesale  destruction  of  property,  though  they 
doubtless  committed  excesses  when  not  under  the  eye  of 
their  officers.  The  fine,  large  sugar-house  at  Homosassa,  be- 
longing to  Mr.  Yulee,  was  burned  through  the  carelessness 
of  cattlemen  in  June,  1869 — not,  as  has  often  been  alleged  by 
United  States  troops.  The  old  slave  quarters  are  still  stand- 
ing in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  are  always  an  object 
of  curiosity  to  visitors. 

Eixursions. — Within  a  few  miles  of  the  hotel,  are  many 
pleasant  walks  over  good  roads  and  foot-paths.  Some  of 
these  lead  through  the  hammock,  as  to  Oltei-  Creek;  and  the 
Natural  Bridge.  The  walk  through  the  hammock  is  always 
interesting.  The  creek  is  a  sluggish,  shallow  stream,  practic- 
able even  for  row-boats  only  at  high  water.  There  are  some 
curious  horizontally  growing  palms  along  the  bank. 


HOMOSASSA.  235 

Arcadian  Spring  is  easily  reached  by  row-boat  from  the 
hotel,  and  like  the  other  wonderful  springs  of  this  region, 
always  presents  some  new  and  surprising  feature  under  chang- 
ing aspects  of  sky  or  season.  This  spring  is  about  sixty  feet 
deep  with  a  strong  boiling  action  of  the  water  that  causes 
the  boat  to  slide  shoreward,  unless  kept  iu  the  middle  of  the 
pool  by  constant  rowing.  Other  similar  springs  exist  in  the 
neighborhood,  all  of  which  should  be  visited  by  the  lover  of 
the  beautiful  in  nature,  for  each  has  something  new  for  an 
appreciative  observer.  ^ 

Crystal  River  with  its  springs  is  six  miles  north  of  Homo- 
sassa  ;  it  may  be  reached  by  land,  the  railroad  passing  near 
the  spring  head,  or  by  water  through  Salt  River,  a  shallow 
channel  full  of  oyster  bars,  connecting  with  the  Homosassa 
three  miles  below  the  hotel.  This  excursion  may  well  be 
extended  down  Crystal  River,  skirting  the  Gulf  within  St. 
Martin's  Keys,  into  the  Homosassa,  and  so  back  to  the  hotel. 
The  lower  part  of  the  river  is  most  interesting,  with,  fine  shell 
mounds  and  islands,  picturesque  rock  formations,  some  of 
them  worn,  by  the  action  of  the  sea  and  river,  into  strange 
caverns  and  columns.  Almost  everywhere  the  rock  forms 
a  natural  sea-wall  where  vessels  may  make  fast  to  the  trees 
as  safely  as  to  artificial  wharf -posts. 


'■23C>  THE   PINELLAS   PENINSULA. 

130.  The  Pinellas  Peninsula,  Hillsborough  County. 

Between  Lat.  27"  35'  and  28"  10'  N.,  and  on  the  meridian  of  82°  40'  W.   ' 

Jacksonville  to  Pinellas  Penin&ula. 

All  Rail  Routes. 

(1)  By  J.,  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.  to  Sanfurd  (125  miles),  thence  by  Orange  Be.t  Ky. 
to  Tarpon  Springs,  1203<j  miles  (running  time,  10  hrs.  17  min.).  There  arc  two 
fast  trains  daily  from  Jacksonville  to  Sauford,  but  connections  with  the  Orange 
Be.t  are  not  close  in  all  cases.  If  it  is  desired  to  brealc  tlie  journey,  good  hot3!o 
\fHl  be  found  at  Sauford.  The  Orange  Belt  Railway  runs  southwesterly  from 
Sauford,  crossing  Orange,  Sumter,  Pasco,  and  Hi'.lsborough  Count'es.  (For 
description  of  those  counties,  maps,  stations,  distances,  etc.,  see  pp.  1  to  102.) 

(2)  By  Florida  Central  A  Peninsula  Railway  :  From  Jacksonville  to  Lacoo- 
chee,  thence  by  Orange  Belt  Railway  as  above,  (1)  230  miles  (running  time  about 
10  hours  50  min.).  Close  connections  cannot  always  be  counted  upon.  If  it  is 
desired  to  stop  over  night  or  for  a  shorter  time,  good  hotels  vrill  be  fou'jd  at 
Silver  Springs  and  Oca'a.  The  F.  C.  &  P.  crosses  Duval,  Bradford,  Alachua, 
and  Sumter  Coimties.  (For  maps,  lists  of  stations  within  the  counties,  dis- 
tances, etc.,  consult  pp.  1  to  102.) 

To  Pinellas  Peninsula  via  the  Ocklawaha. 

From  Jacksonville  to  Palatka  by  rail  (see  Route  35),  thence  by  steamboat  up 
the  St.  John's  and  Ocklawaha  Rivers  to  Silver  Springs  (Route  151),  thence  by  rail 
to  Tarpon  Springs  via  Orange  Belt  Ey.  (see  above),  or  to  Port  Tampa  (see 
below). 

To  Pinellas   Peninsula  via  Tampa. 

By  rail  to  Port  Tampa,  249  miles  (9  hours  20  min.),  steam  ferry  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, 9  miles  (1  hour).  There  are  two  fast  trains  daily  by  J.,  T.  &  K.  Vv'.  sys- 
tem from  Jacksonville,  one  leaving  early  in  the  morning  and  the  other  about 
noon.  The  journey  may  be  advantageously  broken  by  stopping  over  night,  or 
ov.T  a  train,  at  Palatka,  Saafo.d,  Winter  Park,  Orlando,  Kissimmee,  Tampa, 
or  Port  Tampa  (for  which  places  see  Contents,  p.  x).  On  the  best  trains  coaches 
are  run  through  direct  to  Port  Tampa.  (For  county  maps,  stations,  distances, 
etc.,  see  Duval,  Clay,  Putnam,  St.  John's,  Volusia,  Orange,  Sumter,  Pasco,  and 
Hillsborough  Counties,  alphabetically  arranged  in  fii-st  part  of  Handbook,  pp. 
2  to  102.) 

Tami^a  Bay  is  formed  by  the  Pinellas  Peninsula,  wliicli  sep- 
arates it  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  west.  (See  map,  p. 
37.)  It  is  about  30  miles  long  from  the  Anclote  River  on 
the  north  to  Pinellas  Point,  its  southern  extremity,  and 
nearly  14  miles  wide  measuring  on  an  east  and  west  line 
near  Anona.  It  narrows  to  3  miles  near  Tarpon  Springs, 
where  the  isthmus  is  nearly  severed  by  the  Salt  Lakes  and 


THE  PINELLAS  PENINSULA— TARPON  SPRINGS.     237 

Lake  Butler,  rcachiDg  southward  from  the  Anclote  River 
toward  OJd  Tampa  Bay.  The  peninsula  includes  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty  square  miles  of  land,  for  the  most  part 
high  and  well  covered  with  pines,  interspersed  with  oak 
and  other  hard  woods.  The  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  west,  the 
broad  waters  of  Tamjm  Bay  on  the  east,  are  exceptionally 
favorable  to  an  even  temperature.  It  is  in  effect  a  lesser 
Florida  adjoining  the  main  jjeninsula,  but  with  the  pecul- 
iar climatic  conditions  somewhat  intensified.  No  trust- 
worthy thermometric  or  other  averages  are  as  yet  available 
for  the  peninsula,  as  it  is  but  a  very  few  years  since  it  was  a 
wilderness  with  only  a  few  scattered  settlements.  The  near- 
est station  of  the  Weather  Bureau  is  at  Cedar  Key  (Route 
111).  The  railroad  was  finished  to  St.  Petersburg  in  1889,  and 
already  there  are  several  thriving  Mdnter  resorts  mainly  along 
the  Gulf  coast.  It  is  remarkable  that  a  region  almost  sur- 
rounded by  water  should  have  an  atmosphere  drier  than  that 
of  Minnesota,  yet  such  appears  to  be  the  fact,  not  only  in 
this  particular  locality,  but  along  the  whole  Gulf  coast  of 
Florida.  Fish  and  game  hung  in  the  open  air  dry  up  and 
harden  without  becoming  oflfensive,  and  provisions  for  home 
consumption  are  largely  preserved  in  this  way,  the  jiroduct 
being  similar  to  the  "  jerked  meat  "of  Western  Indian  tribes. 


131.   Tarpou  Springs,  Hillsborough  Couuty. 

Population,  500. 

Hotels. — Tarpon  Springs  Hotel,  S4  a  A&j.—The.  Tropic,  $2.50  a  day.— Sev- 
eral smaller  hotels  and  boarding-houses. 

Railroad. — The  Grange  Belt  Railway  (south  to  Pinellas  Peninsula,  Tampa, 
etc.;  north  to  Sanford,  Palatka,  Jacksonville,  etc.). 

Telegraph,  express,  money  order  offices. — Bank  of  Tarpon  Springs. — Good 
general  stores. 

Episcopal,  Baptist,  and  Presbyterian  churches. 

S.  D.  Kendall,  guide. 

Tarpon  Springs  is  among  the  most  attractive  of  the  resorts 
on  the  Gulf  coast.  It  lies  near  the  mouth  of  Anclote  River, 
which  here  opens  in  a  series  of  bayous  and  land-locked 
harbors,  hardly  to  be  distinguished  from  the  fresh-water 
lakes  that  are  found  farther  iidand.  The  village  has  a  pecul- 
iarly attractive  appearance  from  the  neat  board  sidewalks 


238  TARPON  SPRINGS. 

that  are  laid  along  all  the  streets,  and  the  number  of  pretty 
cottages  that  have  been  erected  by  Northern  visitors.  It 
stands  uj^on  one  of  the  gentle  eminences  characteristic  of 
this  region.  The  bayou  containing  the  great  spring  that 
gives  the  jjlace  its  name,  lies  to  the  westward.  A  land- 
locked harbor,  with  a  plank-walk  and  a  white  fence  sur- 
rounding it  at  the  water's  edge.  The  steep  bluff  is  lined 
with  cottages,  in  the  midst  of  luxuriant  flower  and  fruit 
gardens.  Flights  of  steps  lead  down  to  the  plank-walk  at 
intervals,  and  boats  of  all  kinds  are  moored  within  reach  or 
stored  under  shelter,  just  inside  the  railing.  The  walk  ex- 
tends to  the  entrance  of  the  bayou  on  either  hand,  a  total 
length  of  about  one  mile.  It  affords  the  most  charming  of 
promenades,  while  tlie  sheltered  basin  offers  perfect  facilities 
for  boating.  Near  the  head  of  the  bayou  is  the  spring  above 
referred  to,  where  a  considerable  voli;me  of  water  boils  up 
through  openings  in  the  bottom,  and  near  by  is  a  sulphurreed 
spring  which  the  residents  believe  possesses  valuable  medi- 
cinal properties.  Launches  and  boats  drawing  three  feet  of 
water  can  make  their  way  in  or  out  of  the  bayou  into  Anclote 
River,  and  thence  into  the  Gulf. 

The  town  was  founded  in  1884  through  the  enterprise  and 
foresight  of  A.  P.  K.  Sofford,  Esq.,  and  has  been  developed 
through  the  judicious  management  of  a  company  formed  by 
him  and  a  number  of  gentlemen  associated  with  him. 

ExCtTBSIONS. 

Lake  Butler,  1|  mile  east  of  hotel.  An  easy  walk  of  thii-ty 
minutes.  Follow  the  straight  road  to  the  eastward  from  the 
hotel,  or  any  of  the  pleasanter  wood-jjaths  leading  in  that 
direction.  The  lake  is  six  miles  long  and  often  nearly  a 
mile  wide,  crescent-shaped  and  bordered  with  sombre  woods. 
Brooker  Creek,  navigable  for  small  boats,  falls  into  the  lake 
at  its  southern  extremity  after  flowing  for  several  miles 
through  a  dense,  picturesque 'hammock  growth.  The  lake 
may  also  be  reached  from  Tarpon  Springs,  by  boat,  ascending 
Anclote  River  three  miles,  thence  through  Salt  Lakes  and 
across  a  carry  (i  mile)  to  head  of  lake.     Lake  Butler  has  no 


TARPON   SPRINGS.  239 

apparent  natiival  outlet,  though  it  receives  a  large  voliame 
of  water  from  streams  and  springs ;  but  like  many  other 
Florida  lakes,  it  is  subject  to  sudden  and  unaccountable 
changes  of  level.  At  present  there  are  no  boats  for  hire  on 
the  lake,  but  arrangements  can  be  made  at  the  hotel  to  have 
them  hauled  over  if  desired.  On  the  west  bank  of  the  lake, 
near  its  northern  end,  is  an  estate  often  occupied  by  the 
English  Duke  of  Sutherland  and  his  family  during  the  win- 
ter. The  dwelling  stands  on  a  commanding  bluif  overlook- 
ing the  lake.  It  is  surrounded  by  private  grounds  of  con- 
siderable extent,  from  which  trespassers  are  rigidly  ex- 
cluded. The  regular  entrance  and  roadway  is  from  the  side 
nearest  Tarpon  Springs,  where  there  is  a  conspicuous  gate- 
way with  "  Sutherland  Manor"  lettered  on  the  transom.  It 
is,  perhaps,  permissible  to  say  here  that  the  Duke,  after 
having  personally  tried  the  most  noted  resorts  of  the  world, 
with  a  view  to  finding  the  best,  has  chosen  this  location  as 
affording,  upon  the  whole,  the  most  satisfactory  hygienic 
conditions. 

Andote  River. — This  considerable  stream  is  navigable  for 
boats  drawing  four  feet  to  Tarpon  Springs  and  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond.  On  the  north  shore,  half  a  mile  from  the 
Gulf,  is  a  conspicuous  mound  235  feet  long,  166  feet  wide, 
and  10  feet  high.  A.  preliminary  excavation  showed  it  to  be 
similar  in  structure  to  those  on  the  Kootee  River.  The 
mound  is  covered  with  a  growth  of  moderate-sized  pines  and 
scrub  palmetto,  and  no  thorough  exploration  has  been  at- 
tempted. A  roadway  leads  to  the  top  from  the  water-side, 
indicating  that  it  was  once  the  site  of  a  chief's  residence. 
A  mile  higher  up  the  stream,  on  the  same  bank  about 
one-qiiarter  mile  inland,  is  the  Myer's  Mound,  so  called 
from  the  nearest  resident.  This  consists  wholly  of  sand, 
the  pits  whence  it  was  procured  being  still  discernible. 
The  structure  is  168  feet  long,  88  feet  wide,  and  5  feet 
high.  The  major  axis  is  nearly  east  and  west.  Mr.  Walker 
caused  excavations  to  be  made,  and  believes  the  mound  to 
have  been  made  for  a  building  site. 

Half  a  mile  northeast  of  Tarpon  Springs  is  a  circular  sand 
mound,  95  feet  in  diameter  and  5  feet  high,  which  contains 


240  TARPON  SPRINGS. 

numerous  human  bones,  with  the  peculiarity  that,  so  far  as 
examined,  the  bodies  were  incinerated  before  burial,  and  the 
skulls  and  bones  were  piled  together  in  a  shallow  pit  with 
some  degree  of  orderly  arrangement.  As  an  entirely  differ- 
ent system  of  interment  was  observed  in  mounds  only  a  few 
miles  distant,  a  field  for  speculation  is  opened,  in  which  the 
possibility  of  cannibalism  unavoidably  suggests  itself.  Mr. 
Walker,  however,  holds  to  the  theory  of  interment  after 
partial  incineration.  Large  pine  -  trees  have  grown  over 
the  bones,  and  the  construction  of  the  mound  is  believed  to 
antedate  the  Spanish  conquest.  Ten  crania  in  a  toleraVily 
jierfect  condition  were  secured,  and  sent  with  other  relics  to 
the  Smithsonian  Institution  in  Washington. 

Adjacent  to,  and  connected  with,  the  lower  part  of  An- 
clote  Eiver  are  many  beautiful  lake-like  bayous  offering  an 
endless  variety  of  excursions  by  water.  The  major  j^art  of 
the  main  stream  lies  in  Pasco  County.  (See  map  on  page 
74.)  It  may  be  ascended  about  ten  miles  in  a  small  boat. 
About  eight  miles  above  the  bridge  near  Tarpon  Springs  is 
a  sandy  knoll  well  suited  for  camp  or  jncnic  parties.  Lun- 
cheon should  be  taken,  as  this  excursion  can  hardly  be  ac- 
complished in  less  than  six  hours.  Other  landing  -  places 
may  be  found,  however,  not  so  far  away.  The  banks  are 
for  the  most  part  covered  with  a  dense  semi  -  tropical 
growth,  unbroken  for  miles  by  any  sign  of  human  habita- 
tion. Sail-boats  are  available  only  in  the  lower  reaches  of 
the  river. 

Andote  Key. — A  pleasant  two  hours'  sail  from  Tarpon 
Springs.  The  lighthouse  is  a  skeleton  iron  tower  painted 
black,  standing  on  the  southerly  extremity  of  the  keys,  with 
the  keepers'  houses  near  at  hand.  The  lantern  is  101^  feet 
above  the  sea,  showing  a  red  flash  every  30  seconds,  visible 
16  nautical  miles  at  sea.  Two  miles  north  of  the  Anclote 
Eiver  is  Trouble  Creek,  along  the  shores  of  which  is  an  out- 
crop of  blue  flint  rock,  and  the  banks  of  the  stream  afford 
abundant  evidences  of  having  bqen  occupied  by  Indian 
makers  of  spear-heads  and  arrow-heads.  It  has  been  sup- 
posed that  the  Florida  Indians  drew  their  supplies  of  flint- 
headed  projectiles  from  a  distance,  but  this  quarry  certainly 


TARPON  SPRINGS.  241 

Ijroves  that  they  had  at  least  one  considerable  source  of 
home-supply. 

^'Kootee  "  River. — The  Indian  name  in  full  is  Ach-as-koo-tee, 
or  Pith-lo-ches-koo-tee,  but  custom  has  adopted  "  Kootee  " 
as  sufficiently  distinctive.  It  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
about  ten  miles  north  of  Tarpon  Springs,  whence  it  may  be 
easily  reached  by  sail-boat  in  about  three  hours  with  a  fair 
Avind  ;  or  in  two  hours  through  the  woods  and  over  sandy 
roads.  Descending  the  Anclote  River  from  Tarpon  Springs 
involves  some  delay,  owing  to  the  crooked  channels,  but  when 
the  Gulf  is  reached  the  course  is  jjlain,  keeping  well  out  from 
shore  to  avoid  oyster  bars.  The  trip  may  be  undertaken 
with  safety  even  in  a  strong  on-shore  wind,  for  the  coast  is 
sheltered  by  outlying  keys.  The  oyster  bars  increase  in 
number  off  tlie  mouth  of  the  river,  and  entrance  can  only  be 
made  in  a  canoe  or  skiff.  On  the  south  bank,  about  \  mile 
above  the  mouth,  are  two  Indian  mounds.  The  one  nearest 
the  Gulf  is  168  feet  long,  55  feet  wide,  5  feet  high.  It  lies 
with  its  major  axis  nearly  north  and  south.  To  the  eastward 
of  this,  about  300  feet,  is  another  mound,  with  its  major  axis 
N.E.  and  S.W.  It  is  175  feet  long,  50  feet  wide  at  the  south- 
west end,  and  15  feet  wide  at  the  northeast  end.  Near  the 
narrow  end  is  a  spur  20  feet  long  and  10  feet  wide.  Exca- 
vations made  by  S.  T.  Walker,  of  Clearwater,  showed  that  the 
mounds  were  composed  of  alternate  layers  of  sand  and  oyster 
shells,  with  abundant  human  bones  and  broken  pottery. 
The  skeletons  were  all  at  full  length,  reclining  on  the  right 
side,  and  with  the  heads  jjointing  to  a  common  centre.  They 
were  laid  in  concentric  circles.  A  short  distance  south  of 
the  Kootee  is  Blue  Sink,  a  curious  natural  well  with  rocky 
sides. 

The  Gulf  Beach. — A  pleasant  walk  (45  min.)  from  the  sta- 
tion. Follow  road  leading  south  from  Tarpon  Springs  Ho- 
tel. After  passing  town  limits  the  road  inclines  to  the 
westward,  dividing  into  several  trails  after  the  manner  of 
roads  in  Florida.  Following  at  wull  those  that  lead  to  the 
westward  through  pleasant  rolling  pine  lands,  the  shore, 
wooded  nearly  to  the  water's  edge,  is  j^resently  reached. 
The  beach  varies  much  in  character,  afibrding  good  walking 


242  TARPON  SPRINGS. 

in  some  places,  but  being  elsewhere  well-nigh  impassable. 
One  cannot  walk  far  along  tlie  w'atcr-side,  however,  without 
finding  shady  lounging  places  with  a  charming  outlook 
across  the  pale-green  sea  to  the  distant  barrier  of  reefs  and 
islands. 

Seaside,  Sidherland,  Ozona,  Duvedin,  and  Clenrtcater,  are 
railroad  stations  on  the  Orange  Belt  Railway  south  of  Tar- 
jDon  Springs.  (For  distances,  see  p.  38.)  They  are  all  on 
the  Gulf  coast,  and  may  be  reached  by  land  or  water. 

Tlie  Gulf  Coast  South. — Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  An- 
clote  River,  across  Bay  St.  Joseph,  are  the  Anclote  Keys. 
(See  p.  37.)  To  the  southward  for  six  miles  the  outlying  keys 
are  little  more  than  reefs,  but  thence  almost  to  Point  Pinellas 
shelter  and  safe  anchorage  may  be  found  almost  anywhere. 
At  distances  varying  from  one  mile  to  five  miles  from  shore, 
is  an  almost  continuous  line  of  keys,  enclosing  sounds  and 
inlets  of  great  beauty  and  sufficient  depth  for  easy  naviga- 
tion in  the  craft  adapted  for  general  navigation  along  this 
coast.  It  is  difficult  to  go  amiss  in  seeking  a  camping-  ground ' 
on  shore,  for  the  beaches  are  almost  continuous,  backed  by 
wooded  blulfs,  and  with  fresh-water  to  be  had,  either  from 
natural  springs  or  at  the  cost  of  a  little  digging  above  high- 
water  mark. 

Wood  roads,  rather  easier  than  the  average  of  Florida 
roads,  lead  southward  and  across  the  peninsula  to  Old  Tampa 
Bay.  In  general  the  walking  through  the  woods  is  good, 
though  there  are  frequent  sand-dunes  and  bays  near  the 
coast  that  are  apt  to  perplex  a  stranger. 

Tlie  Gtdf  Coast  North. — Harbors  and  anchorage  for  boats  of 
light  draft  are  found  in  the  lee  of  Anclote  Keys.  4  miles  off 
shore  ;  at  Port  Richley,  mouth  of  ''  Kootee  "  River,  9  miles  ; 
at  Hudson,  15  miles  ;  at  Bayport,  25  miles ;  moiith  of  ^Yeki- 
woochee  River ;  at  the  mouth  of  Chassahowitzka  River,  35 
miles ;  at  the  mouth  of  Homosassa  River,  41  miles  (see  p. 
13)  ;  and  in  the  lee  of  St.  Martin's  Keys,  at  the  mouth  of 
Withlacoochee  River ;  in  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  and 
in  the  lee  of  Chambers  Island,  2  miles  oflf  shore.  Between 
this  and  Cedar  Key  is  Waccasassie  Bay,  with  Wacassa  River 
aff"ording  access  to  Gulf  Hammock,  the  Wekiwa  Spring,  and 


TARPON   SPRINGS— CLEARWATER  HARBOR.        2i3 

fine  hunting  grounds.  At  Cedar  Key  (80  miles),  the  terminus 
of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Eailway,  shipping  supplies  may  be  obtained. 
The  other  places  named  are  small  settlements  where  pur- 
chasing facilities  are  meagre.  In  the  main  this  coast  line  is 
low  and  uninteresting,  with  very  shoal  water  extending  often 
for  several  miles  off  shore.  The  waters  are,  however,  all 
practicable  for  good-sized  sharpies,  and  the  attractions  are 
manifold  for  fishermen  and  sportsmen  along  the  inlets  and 
among  the  coastwise  hammocks.  Shell  mounds,  suitable  for 
camping,  are  of  frequent  occurrence,  and  water-fasks  can  be 
replenished  at  any  of  the  harbors  named.  A  post-road  fol- 
lows the  coast  from  Tarpon  Springs  northward  as  far  as  Argo, 
whence  it  diverges  east  and  north  to  Brooksville,  22  miles. 
From  Bayport  (see  above)  is  a  post-road  eastward  to  Brookc- 
ville,  16  miles. 


132.    Sutherland,  Hillsborough  County. 

Hotel. — Sutherland  HoteJ,  $4  a  day.  At  boarding-houses  special  terms  may 
be  made  at  $4  to  $5  per  week. 

The  land  in  the  vicinity  is  mainly  owned  by  Western 
capitalists,  who  built  a  large  hotel  in  1888,  which  was  burned 
in  Febmary,  1889,  and  at  once  rebuilt  on  a  still  larger  scale. 
There  is  a  tramway  to  Lake  Butler,  3  miles  distant.  (See  ]). 
251.)  Among  the  local  curiosities  are  Blue  Sink,  Shell  Isl- 
and, and  the  fine  Gulf  Beach.  For  other  excursions,  see 
Koutes  130  to  133. 


133.    Clearwater  Harbor,  Hillsborough  County. 

Hotel.— 0)-a?i(/«  Bluff  Hotel,  $2.50  a  Aaj.—S.ea  View  Hotel,  Scranton  Hotel, 
$1.50  to  $2  a  day,  with  special  rates  by  the  week. 

Saddle  horses,  30c.  an  hour,  $2  a  day.— Single  team,  50c.  an  hour,  $3  a  dr.y.— 
Double  team,  75c.  an  hour,  $5  a  day. 

Rowboats,  $1  a  day. — Sailboats,  $2  a  day. 

Guides  :  J.  W.  Wetmore,  Robert  Culleii,  A.  A.  Whitehnrst ;  rates  according 
to  service. 

This  pleasant  resort  is  reached  by  the  Orange  Belt  Eail- 
way. (See  p.  38.)  The  town  stands  on  a  fine  bluff,  amidst 
noble  live-oak  trees.  It  commands  a  fine  view  across  the- 
harbor  to  the  outer  keys  and  the  open  Gulf.     A  fine  natural 


244  CLEARWATER  HARBOR. 

spring  of  sulphuvreted  water  boils  up  through  the  sand  near 
the  shore.  The  water,  as  the  name  of  the  jilace  imi)lies,  is, 
under  ordinary  conditions  of  weather,  wonderfully  clear  and 
sparkling,  and  it  is  an  endless  source  of  amusement  to  watch 
the  submarine  life  along  the  sands  and  reefs.  There  are 
Episcopal,  Methodist,  and  Baptist  churches  in  the  town, 
and  a  good  school.  The  surrounding  country  is  high  rolling 
land,  for  the  most  part  heavily  wooded,  with  many  fresh- 
water lakes,  and  excellent  hunting  and  fishing.  At  John's 
Pass,  18  miles  south  of  Clearwater,  is  a  curious  burial  mound 
on  a  low  mangrove  island,  scarcely  habitable  and  without 
fresh  water.  The  island  is  nearly  covered  with  water  at 
high  tide,  but  two  parallel  ridges  of  dry  land  run  east  and 
west,  and  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  southernmost  ridge 
is  the  mound  in  question.  It  is  oval  in  shape,  50  feet  long, 
25  wide,  and  at  present  only  3  feet  high.  When  discovered 
many  skulls  and  bones  lay  on  the  surface,  with  numerous 
fragments  of  pottery,  exposed  through  the  action  of  the  sea, 
in  sjjite  of  a  heavy  growth  of  sea-grape  and  SiDanish  bayonet. 
Mr.  Walker  found  numerous  skeletons  stretched  at  full 
length,  generally  on  the  right  side.  Nearly  two-thirds  of  the 
remains  were  of  children. 

On  the  mainland,  nearly  opposite  John's  Pass,  on  the 
south  side  of  Boca  Ciega,  or  Four  Mile  Bayou,  at  the  mouth 
of  a  small  creek  that  falls  into  the  bayou,  are  two  large 
mounds,  one  of  shell  and  the  other  of  sand.  At  last  advices 
they  had  never  been  explored,  owing  to  refusal  of  permis- 
sion by  the  owners. 

Long  Key  lies  between  Boca  Ciega  and  Pas  d'Agrille.  It 
is  a  naiTow  key  some  five  miles  long.  About  midway  of  the 
key,  on  the  landward  side,  is  a  dense  cabbage  hammock, 
covering  a  turtle-sha^jed  mound  108  feet  long,  66  wide,  5  feet 
high.  Excavations  revealed  incomplete  skeletons  reclining 
at  full  length,  but  no  perfect  crania  were  found.  No  pottery 
was  found  nor  other  relics,  and  from  the  structural  methods 
it  is  believed  that  the  builders  were  of  a  different  race  or 
tribe  from  those  about  the  Anclote  River.  It  is  worthy  of 
mention  that  a  remarkable  turtle  mound  stands  on  Halifax 
Biver,  near  Eldora,  on  the  east  coast  of  Florida  (see  p.  208). 


CLEARWATER   HARBOR.  245 

The  one  on  Long  Key  has  a  testudiuate  outline  with  head 
and  tail  clearly  defined.  The  flipjaers  are  represented  by 
ditches  whence  no  doubt  the  mound-builders  took  their 
material.  The  Halifax  Eiver  "turtle,"  on  the  contrary,  has 
regularly  constructed  flippers. 

Half  a  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Dunedin,  a  short  dis- 
tance back  from  the  beach  and  near  fresh-water  ponds,  is  an 
Indian  mound,  156  feet  long,  80  feet  wide,  9  feet  high.  A 
roadway,  beginning  50  feet  from  the  southwest  face,  ascends 
with  a  regular  incline  to  the  top.  The  pits  whence,  presum- 
ably, the  sand  was  taken,  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the  ends  of 
the  mound,  whose  major  axis  runs  N.W.  and  S.E.  Excavations 
failed  to  reveal  any  remains,  and  the  mound  is  believed  to 
Lave  been  made  for  a  fortress  or  a  residence.  It  stands  in 
a  low  jiine  region,  and  the  growth  on  its  top  is  similar  in 
all  respects  to  the  surrounding  forest. 

Two  miles  south  of  Dunedin  is  Stevens'  Creek,  a  small 
stream  rising  some  five  miles  inland.  Near  the  source  is  a 
mound  of  white  sand,  46  feet  in  diameter  and  3  feet  high. 
Partly  calcined  skeletons  were  found.  The  only  way  of 
finding  this  mound  is  to  ascend  the  creek  to  the  head  of 
tide-water,  which  may  readily  be  detected  by  a  woodsman. 
Due  east  from  this  point  are  two  fresh-water  ponds,  between 
which  is  the  mound,  situate  in  a  "rosemary  scriib." 

Pine  Key. — About  three  miles  south  of  Pas  d'Agrille  are 
two  islands.  They  may  easily  be  taken  for  one  island,  as 
they  are  separated  only  by  a  narrow  passage.  On  the  south- 
ernmost island  is  "Duck  Pond,"  or  lagoon,  and  near  its 
southern  end  is  a  mound  135  feet  in  diameter  and  15  feet 
higher  than  the  general  level  of  the  island.  The  cabbage 
liammock  and  scrub  is  very  dense,  and  it  is  not  altogether 
easy  to  find  the  mound,  though,  when  reached,  it  affords 
quite  an  extensive  outlook.  Arrow-heads  and  ornaments  of 
bone,  inlaid  with  copper,  have  been  found,  also  hi;man 
bones  which  crumble  on  exposure  to  the  air.  The  abund- 
ance of  small  shell  mounds  shows  that  the  island  was  a 
favorite  camping-place,  if  not  a  permanent  residence. 


246  ST.   PETERSBURG. 


134.  St.  Petersburg,  Hillsborougli  County. 

Hotel.— T/ie  Detroit,  $3  a  day. 

Terminus  of  the  Orange  Belt  Railroad.  Steamboat  connections  wth  Port 
Tampa  and  the  "  Plant, "and  J.  T.  &  K.  W.  Railway  Systems  ;  also  coastwise 
of  Tampa  and  Sarasota  Bays. 

St.  Petersburg  is  6  miles  from  the  extremity  of  Pinellas 
Point,  and  9  miles  southwest  from  Port  Tampa  across  the 
mouth  of  Old  Tampa  Bay.  (See  map,  p.  37.)  The  situation 
is  naturally  very  attractive,  high  wooded  bluffs  rising  from 
the  water-side,  which  is  bordered  with  a  nearly  level  sandy 
beach.  A  railroad  wharf  almost  a  mile  long  extends  to  the 
deep  water  of  the  channel.  The  hotel  commands  a  fine  out- 
look to  the  south  and  east.  A  post-road  leads  south  3  miles 
to  Pinellas  and  thence  west,  across  the  jieninsula,  to  New 
Cadiz  and  Bonifacio,  small  settlements  on  the  Gulf  coast. 

ExcuiiSiONS. — Old  Tampa  Bay,  extending  more  than  twenty 
miles  to  the  northward.  Very  shoal  water  everywhere  along 
shore  ;  good  shooting  and  fishing,  especially  toward  the  north- 
ern extremity  of  the  bay. 

Maximo  Point,  about  2  miles  west  of  Pinellas  Point,  has 
a  large  mound  in  alternate  strata  of  sand  and  shells,  cov- 
ered with  an  almost  impenetrable  tangle  of  undergrowth 
and  palms.  No  accurate  measurements  have  been  made,  aiid 
at  last  advices  the  mound  was  practically  unexplored.  It  is 
provided  with  the  usual  inclined  plane  on  the  south  side 
leading  to  the  level  top,  several  hundred  feet  long,  and  15 
feet  high. 

Bethel  Camp. — Two  miles  north  of  Point  Pinellas  is  a  jilace 
known  by  this  name.  There  are  springs  of  good  water  along 
the  beach,  back  of  which  is  a  thick  hammock,  and  back  of 
this  again,  in  a  "  rosemary  scrub,"  a  fine  symmetrical  mound 
20  feet  high,  200  feet  long  on  the  top,  and  30  feet  wide,  with 
a  well-constructed  gradient  on  the  west  side.  The  sharp 
angles  and  well-preserved  slopes  of  this  mound  indicate  that 
it  is  of  more  recent  construction  than  some  of  its  near  neigh- 
bors. Quite  extensive  excavations  have  been  made  in  this 
mound,  but  by  whom  and  with  what  result  is  unknown.  The 
date  1840  is  found  deeply  cut  in  several  trees  on  the  mounds 


ST.    PETERSBURG.  24  T 

in  this  section,  and  it  is  supposed  to  indicate  the  date  when 
some  party  of  hunters  caused  the  excavations  to  be  made. 

Fault  Fi>iellas — Many  mounds,  large  and  small,  exist  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Point.  One  of  these  is  sur- 
rounded with  an  irregular  embankment  10  or  12  feet  high. 
The  main  work  itself  is  20  feet  high,  of  sand  and  shell.  At 
last  advices  it  was  practically  unexplored.  Some  of  the  Pi- 
nellas shell  mounds  are  25  feet  high,  while  some  of  the 
sand,  or  presumably  domiciliary  mounds,  are  at  present  only 
5  or  6  feet  high,  but  surrounded  with  quite  deep  ditches 
save  where  crossed  by  causeways.  The  largest  of  these  sup- 
posed domiciliary  mounds  is  250  feet  in  diameter.  On  this 
mound  stands  the  public  school-house  of  Pinellas.  Skele- 
tons have  been  found  in  some  of  these  mounds. 

De  Soto. — Six  miles  east  of  Clearwater  by  port  route. 
Also  accessible  by  steamer  from  Tampa  three  times  a  week. 
There  is  no  hotel,  but  lodgings  can  be  procured  in  private 
houses.  Guides  and  hunters  are  always  available  at  moder- 
ate rates. 

Papifs  Bayou  is  tributary  to  Old  Tampa  Bay,  about  5 
miles  from  St.  Petersburg,  and  almost  directly  opposite  Port 
Tampa.  A  perplexing  network  of  bayous  behind  the  point 
renders  it  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  find  his  way.  There  is 
a  fine  Indian  mound  on  the  north  side  in  Pillan's  Hammock. 
It  is  unique  in  shape,  oval,  with  a  central  trench  on  the 
major  diameter,  evidently  not  a  modern  excavation,  but  part 
of  the  original  design.  At  one  end  two  wings  or  extensions 
are  carried  out,  prolonging  the  mound  to  150  feet  in  length. 
There  are  also  marks  of  a  roadway  leading  to  the  mound 
through  the  hammock.  The  mound  is  largely  composed  of 
human  bones,  partly  incinerated  and  buried  as  in  the  mound 
at  Tarpon  Springs  (see  Route  131).  Some  three  hundred 
yards  west  of  this  is  another  mound  of  the  usual  oval  type. 

Bayview. — A  village  near  the  head  of  Old  Tamj^a  Bay,  9f 
miles  by  port  route  from  Clearwater  Harbor.  The  steam- 
boat from  Tampa  touches  here  three  times  a  week.  The 
land  of  the  town  site  is  good  height  above  the  water.  There 
is  a  fine  hard  beach,  with  sulphur  sj^rings  at  frequent  inter- 
vals, excellent  fishing,  and  plenty  of  fine  oysters.     A  mile 


248  ST.    PETERSBUIU;. 

north  of  Bayview  post-office,  on  the  south  side  of  Alligator 
Creek,  Old  Tampa  Bay,  is  a  small  mound  which  Mr.  Walker 
found  very  rich  in  bones  and  relics.  The  mound  was  only 
46  feet  in  diameter  and  but  3  feet  high,  and  situated  in  so 
dense  a  growth  of  scrub  jjine  that  it  was  very  difficult  to 
find.  The  mode  of  burial  was  similar  to  that  at  Tarpon 
Springs,  and  the  whole  mound  was  a  mass  of  human 
bones  disposed  in  three  layers.  In  the  upper  layers  were 
found  large  numbers  of  glass  beads,  a  pair  of  scissors,  and  a 
bit  of  looking-glass.  These  trinkets  fixed  the  date  of  in- 
terment at  a  comparatively  recent  period,  evidently  sub- 
sequent to  the  Spanish  invasion.  Philippi's  Point,  eight 
miles  north,  is,  according  to  local  tradition,  the  place  where 
De  Soto  landed  in  1539,  and  his  ships  anchored  in  Safety 
Harbor,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  while  the  expedition  landed. 
Philippics  Point. — Here  is  one  of  the  largest  mounds  on 
Tampa  Bay,  but  owing  to  conflicting  claims  of  local  owners, 
permission  to  excavate  could  not  be  obtained  at  last  ad- 
vices. To  all  appearance  it  is  a  domiciliary  mound,  though 
bones  have  occasionally  been  washed  out  by  the  action  of 
the  sea.  Here  it  is  supposed  that  in  1539  Hernando  de  Soto 
was  received  by  Hirrihigues,  a  powerful  Indian  cacique, 
whose  dwelling  stood,  according  to  the  Spanish  accounts, 
upon  a  large  artificial  mound.  Here  was  found  one  Juan 
Ortiz,  a  survivor  of  Narvaez's  ill-fated  expedition,  who 
had  been  held  captive  by  the  Indians  since  1528.  The 
Spaniards  jsresently  inaugurated  their  cruel  policy  of  ac- 
cepting the  chief's  hospitality  while  it  suited  their  conven- 
ience, and  then  seizing  him  as  a  hostage  in  order  to  extort 
a  ransom  from  his  people.  From  this  point,  aided  by  Ortiz 
as  interpreter,  began  that  remarkable  march  which  ended 
with  the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi  and  the  death  of  Soto, 
after  nearly  all  his  followers  had  perished. 


TAMPA.  249 

140.     Tampa,  Hillsborough  County  (C.  H.). 

Populatiou,  T.OOO.— Lat.  2T"  57'  N.— Long.  82"  27'  W.  Mean  rise  and  fall  of 
tide,  2  feet  2  inches. 

Hotels.— The  Tampa  Bay  Hotel.— City  Hotel,  $3  a.  6a,y.— The  Plant,  $3  a 
day. — Collins  House. — HilUborough  House. 

Railroads. — The  South  Florida  Railroad  :  west  to  Port  Tampa ;  east  and 
north  to  Sanford,  Palatka,  Jacksonville,  etc.  Connects  at  Port  Tampa  with 
ocean  steamers  from  Key  West,  Havana,  Jamaica,  New  Orleans,  and  Mobile, 
and  coastwise  steamers  for  Bay  ports  and  Pinellas  Peninsula.  The  Florida 
Central  &  Peninsula  Railroad  ;  north  to  Jacksonville,  Fernandina,  etc. 

Livery.— Double  teams,  $2  an  hour ;  $8  to  $10  a  day.  Saddle-horses,  $3  a 
day. 

The  city  of  Tampa,  commercially  the  most  important  on 
the  Gulf  coast  of  the  Peiiin.sula,  is  at  the  mouth  of  Hills- 
borough River,  and  at  the  head  of  the  eastern  arm  of  Tampa 
Bay  (see  map,  p.  37).  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out  upon 
the  point  of  land  to  the  westward  of  the  river,  near  the  site 
of  old  Fort  Brooke,  a  United  States  military  post  established 
in  1821,  immediately  after  the  acquisition  of  Florida  by  the 
United  States.  It  was  an  important  base  of  .supplies  during 
the  Seminole  war,  and  was  maintained  as  a  garrisoned  jjost 
until  after  the  Indians  were  subjugated.  The  site  of  the 
old  fort,  ten  minutes  walk  from  the  main  street  in  a  southerly 
direction,  is  still  the  most  attractive  spot  within  the  limits  of 
the  town.  It  is  now  a  public  park,  having  been  given  to  the 
city  by  the  United  States  after  the  close  of  the  Civil  War. 
Within  its  limits  are  the  remains  of  several  mounds,  the 
largest  of  which  is  about  100  feet  in  diameter  and  7  to  9 
feet  high.  Partially  incinerated  bones  and  one  complete  hu- 
man skeleton  were  found  by  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Vodges,  of  the 
Fifth  Artillery,  when  the  locality  was  first  occupied  by  United 
States  troops.  Some  specimens  of  rude  pottery  were  found, 
also  sjjlit  and  charred  human  bones,  suggestive  of  cannibal- 
ism on  the  part  of  the  mound-builders.  The  mounds  have 
been  considerably  reduced  in  size,  and  in  some  cases  almost 
obliterated.  Until  after  the  Indian  war  Tampa  was  almost 
the  only  place  on  the  Gulf  coast  where  a  white  man  could 
live  in  security,  and  safety  here  was  only  secured  by  the 
Ijresence  of  a  strong  garrison.  A  settlement  naturally  grew 
up  under  the  guns  of  the  fort.  From  this  point  the 
old  military  roads  led  north  and  east  to  the  interior 
posts,  and  over  them  all  supi^lies  had  to  be  haitled  under 


250  TAMPA. 

military  escort.  From  Fort  Brooke  Major  Datle  aiul  his 
commauci  marched  into  the  fatal  amlniscade  in  the  Walioo 
swamp.  And  here  were  organized  most  of  the  expeditions 
that  wasted  away  in  conflicts  with  a  fierce  and  vigilant  foe, 
who  was  rarely  to  be  found  except  when  he  could  fight  to 
good  advantage. 

On  November  3,  1862,  Tampa  was  shelled  by  United  States 
gun-boats  to  dislodge  the  small  Confederate  garrison  that 
held  possession.  Not  much  show  of  resistance  was  made, 
and  during  the  rest  of  the  Civil  War  an  occasional  visit  from 
a  gun-boat  sufficed  to  jjrevent  its  being  made  a  harbor  for 
blockade  runners. 

To  the  westward  of  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  i:)ark  150 
acres  in  extent,  is  the  Tampa  Bay  Hotel,  one  of  the  larg- 
est and  most  magnificent  in  the  country.  It  was  erected  at 
a  cost  of  about  one  million  dollars,  through  the  enterprise 
of  Mr.  H.  B.  Plant,  and  opened  to  the  public  in  1890.  The 
architecture  is  Moorish  and  the  material  brick  and  concrete, 
Avith  terra  cotta  ornamentation  and  fire-proof  construction, 
throughout.  The  building  is  more  than  500  feet  long,  with 
luxurious  furnishing  and  decorations,  rooms  single  and  en 
suite,  and  everything  that  ingenuity  can  devise  for  the  com- 
fort of  visitors. 

Tamjia  has  large  commercial  interests  in  trade  witli  the 
West  Indies  and  as  a  shipping  point  for  home  products,  ex- 
tensive cigar  factories,  excellent  stores  of  all  kinds,  several 
newspapers,  and  large  fishing  and  packing  industries.  The 
streets  are  well  lighted,  with  good  sidewalks,  and  lines  of 
tramways  to  the  suburbs. 

Excursions, — Port  Tampa,  9  miles  by  rail,  has  good  hotels 
and  bathing  facilities,  excellent  fishing,  and  is  a  favorite 
place  of  resort  at  all  seasons  of  the  year  (see  Route  141). 

Tampa  Bay  and  Hillsborough  Bai/,  with  a  wide  extent  of 
admirable  cruising,  and  fishing  grounds,  offer  a  great  varie- 
ty of  camping  and  hunting  fields  for  parties  making  their 
headquarters  at  Tampa,  where  sail-boats  and  launches,  and 
guides  may  be  hired  on  reasonable  terms. 

Alafia  Hirer  falls  into  the  bay  about  10  miles  southeast  of 
Tampa,  and  a  little  south  of  it,  at  the  moi;th  of  Bullfrog 


TAMPA— PORT  TAMPA.  251 

Creek,  is  a  fine  mound,  30  feet  liigli  and  200  feet  in  diam- 
eter. 

Hillsborough  River,  tributary  to  the  bay  of  the  same  name, 
is  navigable  to  "the  falls,"  about  twenty  miles  from  the 
mouth. 

At  Indian  Hill,  some  twenty  miles  southeast  of  Tampa,  are 
enormous  shell  heaps  some  800  feet  long  and  20  or  30  feet 
high,  the  most  conspicuous  elevations  being  visible  several 
miles  at  sea.  Human  remains  are  rarely  found  in  true  shell 
heaps,  but  here,  in  a  detached  mound,  they  were  found  in 
abundance,  and  under  such  conditions  as  to  afford  strong 
support  to  the  cannibalistic  theory. 


141.  Port  Tampa,  Hillsborough  County. 

Hotel.— rA«  Inn,  $4  a  clay. 

Railroads. — The  South  Florida  Railroad  (to  Tampa.  Sanford,  Palatka, 
Jacksonville,  etc.).  The  Orange  Belt  Railway  (Clearwater  Harbor,  Tarpon 
Springs,  etc.).    Reached  by  steam  ferry  to  St.  Petersbui-g,  9  miles. 

Port  Tampa  is  on  a  loeninsula  separating  Old  Tampa  and 
Hillsborough  Bays  (see  map,  p.  37).  It  is  the  terminus 
of  the  South  Florida  Railroad  and  the  landing  place  for  sev- 
eral important  lines  of  ocean  steamers,  as  specified  above, 
lu  order  to  reach  deep  water  the  railroad  track  has  to  be 
carried  out  seven-eighths  of  a  mile  from  shore,  on  a  trestle 
■work  to  the  edge  of  the  channel,  where  a  depth  of  twenty- 
four  feet  is  found.  Vessels  drawing  eighteen  feet  of  water 
can  cross  the  outer  bar.  At  the  end  of  this  long  wharf  is  a 
cluster  of  veritable  lacustrine  dwellings  with  all  modern  im- 
provements, a  railway  station,  freight  houses,  the  various 
appliances  for  railroad  and  steamboat  shipments,  and — of 
chief  interest  to  the  tourist — The  Inn,  an  hostelry  standing  on 
jiiles,  surrounded  by  wide  galleries,  and  so  near  deeji  water 
that  one  may  catch  channel  bass,  Spanish  mackerel,  and  sea- 
trout  literally  from  the  windows.  This  establishment  is  the 
only  one  of  its  kind  on  the  coast,  and  offers  unique  attrac- 
tions to  lovers  of  water  sports. 

Picnic  Island,  a  short  distance  south  of  the  railroad  wharf, 
is  a  favorite  resort  for  visitors  to  Tampa.  The  island  is 
covered  with  a  low  hammock  growth,  bordered  with  a  level 


252  PORT  TAMPA— THE  MANATEE  lUVEH. 

beach  of  fine  white  sand,  sloping  gradually  out  to  dee})  water. 
On  the  island  are  commodious  buildings  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  transient  visitors. 


142.  The  Manatee  River. 

Daily  mail  steamer  from  Tampa  touching  at  all  river  ports. 

The  Manatee  Country  (see  map,  p.  59),  lying  jnst  with- 
in the  main  entrance  to  Tampa  Bay,  is  a  naturally  rich 
and  attractive  region  embracing  the  northwestern  sections 
of  Manatee  County.  It  is  most  easily  accessible  by  steam- 
boat from  Tampa.  Manatee  Kiver,  or  bay,  is  15  miles 
long  and  has  an  average  width  of  one  mile  or  more.  It  is 
navigable  for  small  steamers  to  Rye,  about  eighteen  miles 
from  the  coast.  Manatee  River  rises  in  De  Soto  County,  50 
miles  from  the  coast.  Rich  hammocks  border  the  stream 
and  the  bay,  and  there  are  evidences  that  the  whole  region 
was  well  iJopulated  prior  to  the  advent  of  Europeans. 
Traces  of  civilized  occupation  are  found  along  the  coast,  but 
no  records  of  their  history  are  known  to  exist.  Manatee 
River  and  the  adjacent  waters  of  Sarasota  Bay,  and  Tamjia 
Bay,  are  among  the  most  attractive  to  sportsmen.  Naviga- 
tion is  safe  and  easy  southward  to  Charlotte  Harbor,  and 
northward  to  all  points  on  Tampa  and  Hillsborough  Bays, 
and  to  Tarpon  Springs,  still  farther  north. 

Palma  Sola,  so  called  from  a  lone  palm  that  stands  on  an 
outlying  key,  is  the  most  considerable  settlement  near  the 
coast.  The  Palma  Sola  Hotel  (3^3  a  day)  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated, with  a  fine  outlook  to  seaward.  The  harbor  affords 
safe  anchorage  for  large  vessels.  Thei'e  is  a  good  store 
where  ordinary  supplies  can  be  obtained,  and  boats  suitable 
for  hunters  and  fishermen  can  be  hired  at  reasonable  rates. 
A  post-road  leads  to  Cortez,  G  miles  southwest,  at  the  head 
of  Sarasota  Bay.  The  road  continiies  eastward  to  Manatee, 
2  miles,  whence  it  diverges  southward  along  the  coast  to 
Sarasota,  Osprey,  and  Venice,  and  southeastward,  crossing 
the  county  diagonally  to  Pine  Level. 

Indian  Mounds. — Very  large  shell  heaps  extend  along  the 


THE  MANATEE  RIVER.  253 

Bbores  of  Shaw's  Point,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  for  five 
hundred  and  sixty-four  feet,  with  a  height  of  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  at  the  highest  point.  The  sea  has  so  washed 
away  the  mounds  that  an  inspection  of  their  structure  has 
been  possible,  and  it  seems  certain  that  they  are  the 
natural  accumulation  of  waste  material  unavoidable  in  the 
vicinity  of  an  Indian  camp.  The  apparent  process  was  as 
follows  :  A  fire  was  built  on  the  ground,  and  around  this  the 
savages  sat  cooking,  eating,  and  throwing  shells  and  bones 
over  their  shoulders.  In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  a  circu- 
lar bank  of  shells  would  be  formed  around  the  fire,  and  at 
length  the  central  sjiace  would  be  so  narrowed  that  the  fire 
would  be  moved  to  the  top  of  the  bank,  and  the  process  re- 
jieated.  In  point  of  fact,  the  successive  fires  in  such  mounds 
have  been  located,  and  found  to  correspond  with  this  theory. 
Of  course  the  resultant  mound  is  often  irregular,  but  the 
theory  is  reasonable,  and  anyone  who  has  camped  for  a  few 
days  near  a  Florida  oyster-bed  must  have  noticed  the  jihe- 
nomenal  rapidity  with  which  the  jjiles  of  oyster-shells  grow. 
That  the  Indians,  who  lived  mainly  by  fishing  and  hunting, 
should  have  constructed  these  huge  mounds,  is  only  in  the 
natural  order  of  things. 


254  CHARLOTTE   HAUBOll. 

150.  Charlotte  Harbor. 

(See  general  map  of  Florida,  and  maps  of  Do  Soto  and  Lee  Counties.) 

Jacksonville  to  Punta  Gorda  and  Charlotte  Harbor. 

By  J.,  T.  .fe  K.  W.,  and  Florida  Southern  Railway  system  via  Palatka,  San- 
ford,  Kissiuiee,  etc.,  324  miles  (13!^  hours  runninfr  time).  Sleeping  cars  on  all 
through  trains.  See  Maps  of  Duval,  Clay,  Vohwia,  Oran;^e,  Osceola,  I'olk.  and 
De  Soto  Counties,  with  tables  of  stations  and  distances  m  context.  Jackson- 
ville to  Sanford,  see  Routes  40  and  50. 

To  Lakeland,  eiglity-tliree  miles,  tlie  course  is  the  same  as 
in  Eoute  130.  Thence  the  general  direction  is  south,  follow- 
ing Peace  Eiver  {Flumen  Pads  of  the  early  map  makers). 
Bartow,  the  county  town  (Polk  County)  is  the  most  imijor- 
tant  place  on  the  route.  Fort  Meade  was  established  as  a 
United  States  military  pest  December  19,  1849,  and  main- 
tained until  September  20,  1857.  It  is  now  a  thriving  town 
of  400  inhabitants.  Near  Bowling  Green  is  the  line  between 
Polk  and  De  Soto  Counties  (see  map,  p.  22).  A  short  dis- 
tance south  is  the  site  of  Fort  Choconitka,  established  Octo- 
ber 26,  1849,  and  abandoned  July  18,  1850. 

Zolfo  Springs  is  so  called  from  the  number  of  sulphur 
springs  that  exist  in  the  vicinity,  the  prefix  being  presum- 
ably a  local  phonetic  abbreviation  of  the  longer  word. 

Charley  Apopka  always  attracts  attention  from  its  extraor- 
dinary name,  which  is,  in  fact,  an  unpardonable  corruption 
from  the  Seminole  Tsalopopkohatchee,  meaning  "catfish- 
eating  creek."  The  terminal  hatches  (river  or  creek)  was 
first  dropped,  and  Tsalo-popka  was  finally  Americanized  into 
its  present  form.' 

The  name  Apopka,  properly  Ahapopka,  is  found  elsewhere 
in  the  State,  often  in  combination  with  other  Seminole 
terms. 

Arcadia  became  the  seat  of  government  of  Polk  County  in 
November,  1889.  It  has  a  population  of  about  two  hundred, 
a  new  county  court-house,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  a  phos- 
phate company. 


"  For  this  explanation  the  editor  is  indebted  to  Mr.  E.  A.  Richards,  of  Or- 
lando. 


CHARLOTTE   HARBOR.  255 

When  and  by  ■whom  this  fine  bav  was  discovered  is  a  mat- 
ter of  some  doubt.  It  is  not  unlikely  that  Hernandez  de 
Cordova  is  entitled  to  the  honor.  Certain  it  is  that  in  1.517, 
Avhen  on  a  slave-hunting  expedition,  he  lauded  on  the  Gulf 
coast  at  a  place  whose  description  answers  very  well  to  this, 
and  was  so  warmly  received  by  the  natives  that  he  and  his 
men  were  glad  to  escape  with  their  lives.  The  earliest  maps 
that  definitely  show  the  two  great  and  curiously  similar  bays 
on  the  Gulf  coast,  known  to  us  as  Tampa  Bay  and  Charlotte 
Harbor,  name  the  southernmost  after  Ponce  de  Leon ;  but 
there  is  some  uncertainty  whether  this  or  a  bay  south  of  Cajie 
Romano  was  intended.  Its  present  name,  in  the  opinion  of 
Dr.  Brinton,  the  well-known  archajologist,  is  a  European 
corruption  of  Carloosa  or  Caloosa,  the  native  tribe  that  in- 
habited this  region  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  discovery. 
The  southern  part  is  now  known  as  San  Carlos  Bay.  It 
seems  probable  that  the  two  were  originally  considered  as 
one  and  named  accordingly.  The  extreme  length  of  Char- 
lotte Harbor  is  about  30  miles,  lying  between  26"  30'  and 
the  27th  parallel  of  north  latitude.  It  is  separated  from  the 
Gulf  by  a  long  line  of  partially  wooded  keys,  filled  with  in- 
numerable islands,  and  offers  unsurpassed  attractions  to  the 
lover  of  outdoor  life.  Two  large  streams,  the  Myakka  and 
Peace  Rivers,  enter  the  head  of  the  harbor  from  the  north, 
and  near  its  southern  j^asses  it  receives  the  Caloosahatchee, 
from  Lake  Okechobee  and  the  Everglades.  The  main  en- 
trance is  practicable  for  vessels  drawing  25  feet,  and  large 
vessels  can  find  entrance  through  San  Carlos  Pass  from  the 
southward.  Lines  of  ocean  steamers  run  regularly  to  Ha- 
vana, Key  West,  and  Baltimore. 

The  discovery  of  exceedingly  rich  phosphates  in  the  bed 
of  Peace  River  has  greatly  stimulated  commercial  interests  of 
all  kinds  in  this  vicinity.  The  deposit  occurs  in  a  semi-fluid 
state,  so  that  it  can  be  pumped  from  the  river  bottom  and  de- 
livered for  transportation  almost  wholly  without  the  em- 
liloyment  of  manual  labor.  The  crude  product  is  dried  and 
packed  in  cars  for  transportation  to  Charlotte  Harbor,  the 
nearest  seaport,  or  by  rail  to  the  north.  The  discoveries  of 
the  phosphate  deposits  were  made  in  the  summer  of  1889, 


250     CHARLOTTE  HAUBOR— rUNTA  (;ORDA. 

and  during  the  following  winter  a  line  of  ocean  steamers  be- 
gan making  regular  trips  to  Baltimore.  At  this  writing 
scarcely  any  change  has  been  made  in  the  level  of  the  river- 
bed, although  powerful  pumping  machinery  has  been  at  work 
for  several  mouths.  The  semi-liqiiid  fertilizer  seems  to 
flow  toward  the  pumps  from  all  directions,  and  apparently  in 
almost  undiminished  volume. 


151.  Puiita  Gorda,  De  Soto  County. 

Lat.  36"  55'  N.— Long.  82"  3'  W. 

Hotel. — Punta  Gorda.  $4  a  day. 

Railroad. — North  to  Bartow,  Sanford,  Leesbtirsr,  etc. 

Ocean  steamers  to  Key  West,  Havana,  and  New  Orleans.  Coastwise  eteam- 
ers  to  San  Carlos  Bay,  Caloosahatchee  River,  Naples,  and  intermediate  land- 
ings. 

Steam  launches,  $12  to  115  a  day. 

Sail-boats,  $1  an  hour,  $4  to  $5 "a  day. 

Guides  and  hiiate.'s,  $1.50  to  $3  a  day. 

Punta  Gorda  is  the  most  southerly  railroad  terminus  on 
the  Gulf  coast  ;  a  favorite  stojipiug-jilace  for  sportsmen, 
tourists,  and  invalids,  within  easy  reach  of  the  most  famous 
tarpon  fishing-grounds  on  the  coast.  The  station  near  the 
hotel  is  Trabiie,  named  after  one  of  the  pioneers  of  this  re- 
gion, and  Punta  Gorda  is  properly  the  railroad  wharf  and 
actual  terminus,  a  mile  farther  south.  Pojiularly,  the  latter 
name  is  applied  to  both  places.  The  hotel  is  of  wood,  more 
than  400  feet  long,  with  a  wide  veranda  and  150  rooms,  all 
commanding  an  outlook  across  the  bay.  In  front  is  a  spac- 
ious lawn  of  Bermuda  grass,  and  from  the  water's  edge  a 
wharf  extends  1,000  feet  to  the  edge  of  navigable  water. 
From  this  wharf  sea-trout,  bluetish,  Spanish  mackerel,  and  all 
the  common  fish  of  Florida  waters  may  be  taken  with  rod  and 
line.  From  the  hotel  veranda  one  looks  across  the  north- 
eastern arm  of  the  bay  to  Live  Oak  Point  and  Oak  Bluffs 
(1^  mile).  This  ai-m  of  the  bay  is  in  reality  the  mouth 
of  Peace  River.  Beyond  the  point  is  the  western  ami  of 
the  bay,  into  which  falls  Myakka  Piiver  (see  p.  270).  On 
the  j)oint  itself  is  Charlotte  Harbor  town,  with  a  number  of 
stores  and  dwellings,  including  a  hotel  and  several  boarding- 
houses.     It  is  the  shipping  point  for  a  large  cattle-grazing 


PUNTA  GORDA.  257 

country  to  the  northward,  and  several  wharves  extend  from 
the  shore  to  the  edge  of  the  channel.  A  good  sand-beach, 
with  occasional  shell-mounds,  offers  attractions  to  camping 
and  picnic  parties. 

Midway  of  the  harbor  is  a  detached  landing  and  store- 
houses, over  piles,  for  the  accommodation  of  deep-draught 
vessels.  To  the  southward  is  the  railroad  wharf,  nearly 
one  mile  long,  where  the  ocean  steamers  make  their  land- 
ings, and  beyond  it  Charlotte  Harbor  proper  opens  tov,'ard 
the  Gulf.  Almost  eveiywhere  the  water  is  shallow  for  a 
long  distance  from  shore,  and  frequent  oyster-reefs  are 
troublesome  to  steersmen  unfamiliar  with  the  channels. 
With  boats  of  shallow  draft,  however,  one  may  go  almost 
anywhere  by  tho  exercise  of  discretion  and  seamanship. 

Excursions. — Alligator  Eiver,  a  picturesque  stream  flowing 
for  the  \ipper  part  of  its  course  through  heavily  wooded 
bluffs  with  occasional  clearings,  falls  into  the  bay  seven  miles 
south  of  the  hotel.  The  distance  by  land  is  five  miles.  Boats 
can  be  hired  at  a  house  near  the  river,  or  the  whole  trip  can 
be  made  by  launch  or  small  boat,  as  the  stream  is  navigable 
several  miles  from  its.  mouth.  Numerous  creeks  and  inlets 
along  shore  are  favorite  retreats  for  ducks,  and  quails  abound 
in  the  open  woods  and  savannas  a  few  hundred  yards  inland. 
The  stream  rises  in  a  wild  region,  extending  for  many  miles 
to  the  south  and  east,  where,  with  the  aid  of  hunters  familiar 
with  the  country,  large  game  may  be  found. 

Myakka  River. — Five  miles  west  of  hotel.  This  is  a  con- 
siderable stream,  rising  near  the  eastern  border  of  Manatee 
County,  thirty  miles  north.  It  may  be  ascended  to  Lake 
Myakka  and  beyond  in  small  boats,  but  the  current  is  swift, 
at  times  breaking  into  rapids.  Ten  miles  from  Charlotte 
Harbor  it  widens,  and  for  the  last  eight  miles  is  nearly  one 
mile  wide.  It  is  navigable  for  launches  to  where  the  stream 
narrows ;  a  pleasant  excursion  of  five  hours  from  the  hotel. 
A  military  post  was  maintained  near  Lake  Myakka  during 
the  winter  of  1849-50,  to  restrain  the  unsubdued  remnant 
of  the  Seminoles  after  the  war  was  over. 

Peace  River. — By  some  authorities  this  sti'eam  is  called 
"Peas"  Eiver,  and  others  hold  that  it  takes  its  name  from 
17 


258  PUNTA  GOUDA. 

&  treaty  made  with  the  Indians  in  comparatively  modern 
times.  It  was  charted,  however,  as  "Fiumen  Pacis"  by  Le 
Moyne  in  15G0,  and  was  doubtless  so  named  by  the  Spanish 
discoverers.  The  railroad  follows  the  left  bank  of  the  stream 
• — not  often  within  sight,  however — almost  throughout  its 
course.  It  receives  three  considerable  streams  as  tributaries, 
the  Chilocohatchee  from  the  west,  and  Joshua's  Creek  and 
Prairie  Creek  from  the  east.  All  these  may  be  ascended  in 
small  boats  to  good  hunting  grounds.  A  favorite  excursion 
by  steam-launch  is  up  Peace  Eiver  to  Lettuce  Lake  and  Fort 
Ogden  (12  miles).  The  lake  is  a  small  body  of  water,  so 
called  from  the  abundance  of  water-lettuce  that  grows  in  its 
shallows.  Any  point  on  the  river  may  be  easily  reached  by 
rail,  and  the  return  trip  made  down  stream  by  row-boat.  In 
this  case,  of  course,  arrangements  should  be  made  to  have  a 
boat  on  hand  at  the  desired  point,  as  a  local  supply  cannot 
always  be  counted  upon. 

In  its  lower  reaches  Peace  Piver  is  bordered  with  marshes 
and  mangrove  islands,  intersected  with  a  labyrinth  of  creeks 
where  there  is  good  wild-fowl  shooting. 

Punta  Gorda  nearly  marks  the  northern  limit  on  the  Gulf 
coast  of  the  Koonti  plant  or  Indian  bread-fruit,  a  graceful, 
palm-like  plant  growing  in  the  open  woods,  or  among  the 
l^almetto  scrub.  Farther  south  it  is  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  is  a  staple  article  of  food  among  the  Indians  of 
the  Everglades.  The  root,  which  is  large  and  thick,  is 
ground  and  washed,  the  product  being  a  fine  white  flour, 
used  for  the  table  much  as  corn-starch  is  used,  and  equally 
palatable.  On  Biscayno  Bay  this  flour  is  largely  manufac- 
tured by  the  white  residents,  both  for  home  consumption 
and  for  shipment  to  Key  West,  where  it  is  extensively  used 
as  an  article  of  food.  The  soluble  ingredients  of  the  Koonti 
root  which  are  washed  out  in  the  jjrocess  of  manufacture,  are 
poisonous,  as  is  the  root  itself  in  its  raw  state,  but  it  is  an 
excellent  fertilizer  for  all  kinds  of  vegetables,  and  a  flour- 
ishing garden  is  the  inevitable  adjunct  of  a  well-conducted 
Koonti  mill.  The  plant,  when  it  reaches  maturity,  pushes 
up  a  large  cone  of  orange-red  seeds  among  its  palm-like 
fronds,  and  these  are  such  a  favorite  article  of  food  with 


PUNTA  GORDA— SAINT-JAMES-ON-THE-GULF.      259 

crows  and  other  birds,  that  they  are  scattered  far  and  wide 
over  the  country,  insuring  an  abundant  croj)  without  trouble 
to  the  planter.  Attempts  to  cultivate  the  Koonti  root  arti- 
ficially have  not  thus  far  proved  successful. 

More  extended  excursions  may  be  made  to  Pine  Island 
(Route  152),  Punta  Eassa  (Route  153),  and  Myers,  on  the 
Caloosahatchee  River  (Route  154).  The  latter  is  a  regular 
steamboat  route  with  tri-weekly  boats,  and  weekly  boats  to 
Naples,  thirty  miles  farther  down  the  coast.  The  southern 
part  of  the  peninsula  separating  Charlotte  Harbor  from  the 
Gulf  is  an  attractive  region  for  sportsmen,  with  high  bluifs 
and  numeroiis  small  lakes  in  the  interior.  The  Gulf  coast 
for  thirty  miles  to  the  northward  is  studded  with  mangrove 
islands  and  outlying  keys,  affording  sheltered  navigation 
for  the  whole  distance. 


152.  Saint- James-on-the-Giilf,  Lee  County. 

Lat.  26°  32'  N.— Long.  82"  54'  W. 
Hotel. — Tie  San  Carlos  Hotel,  $3  a  day. 

Steamboats  three  times  a  week  to  Punta  Gorda  and  Fort  Myers ;  once  a  week 
to  Naples,  Sarasota  Bay,  and  Tampa. 

Big  Pine  Island  is  the  largest  in  Charlotte  Harbor,  con- 
taining nearly  25,000  acres,  mainly  in  woodland.  It  is  14 
miles  long,  and  from  two  to  four  miles  wide.  Beaches  of 
white  sand  skirt  its  shores,  except  where  the  mangroves 
have  gained  a  foothold,  or  occasional  inlets  bordered  with 
saw-grass  make  their  way  inland.  Mattlacha  Pass,  to  the 
eastward  of  the  i.sland,  is  very  shallow,  and  practicable  only 
for  small  boats.  To  the  westward  is  Pine  Island  Sound, 
navigable  for  small  steamboats  and  vessels  of  moderate 
draught.  Several  thousand  acres  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
island  are  owned  by  the  San  Carlos  Hotel,  and  have  been 
partially  cleared  and  laid  out  with  a  view  to  inducing  tourists 
and  residents  to  purchase  and  build.  There  is  a  good  wharf 
accessible  through  San  Carlos  Pass  for  sea-going  vessels, 
and  the  most  famous  tarpon-fishing  gi'ounds  on  the  Florida 
coast  are  within  easy  reach. 

The  locality  and  its  surroundings  are  certainly  most  attrac- 
tive.    The  great  bay  and  its  sounds  are  studded  with  islands 


260  SAINT-J  AMES-ON-THE-.G  ULF. 

covered  ■with  semi-tropical  vegetation.  Between  them  wind 
intricate  channels,  through  which  the  hunter  may  paddle 
his  canoe  or  row  his  skiff  for  days  without  seeing  a  human 
habitation,  ard  with  a  certainty  of  finding  plenty  of  game, 
on  foot  and  on  the  wing.  Along  the  outer  beaches,  the  Gulf 
rollers  break  ceaselessly  and  renew  the  supply  of  curious 
and  beautiful  shells,  with  here  and  there  a  marine  nonde- 
script that  may  well  puzzle  even  those  who  are  wise  in  such 
matters. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  all  important  buildings,  includ- 
ing the  light-keeper's  house  on  Sanibel  Island,  are  raised 
on  piles.  This  is  to  guard  against  possible  damage  from 
hurricanes,  which  occur  in  this  latitude  during  the  sum- 
mer months,  rarely  earlier  than  May  or  later  than  October. 
When  one  of  these  occurs  in  conjunction  with  a  high  tide, 
the  water  rises  far  above  its  usual  level.  The  hotel  stands 
well  above  the  highest  point  to  which  hurricanes  have  ever 
driven  the  waves. 

Sanibel  Island  lies  directly  in  front  of  the  hotel,  two  miles 
distant  across  San  Carlos  Bay,  curving  crescent-wise  to  the 
westward.  It  is  13  miles  long,  and  3  miles  in  extreme  width. 
The  inland  shore  is  low,  overgrown  with  mangroves,  and 
jsenetrated  by  shallow  bays  and  inlets.  The  seaward  front 
has  a  fine  unbroken  beach,  strewn  with  exqiii-site  shells. 
The  interior  of  the  island  rises  often  into  blnflfs,  generally 
well  woodel,  and  offering  endless  attractions  to  the  sports- 
man-naturalist. Point  Ybel  is  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
island.  Near  it  is  the  black  iron  light-tower,  with  the  neat 
keeper's  houses  near  at  hand.  The  tower  stands  in  lat.  26°  27' 
II"  N.,  long.  82°  53"  W.  It  was  established  in  1884.  The 
light  is  98  feet  high,  and  shows  white,  varied  by  a  white 
flash  every  two  minutes ;  visible  15f  nautical  miles  at  sea. 
Between  Point  Ybel  and  Bowditch  Point  is  San  Carlos  Pass, 
three  miles  wide,  with  the  ship  channel  into  San  Carlos  Bay. 
Near  Bowditch  Point  Matauzas  Pass  opens  into  a  series  of 
shallow  lagoons.  On  the  north  Blind  Pass  separates  Sanibel 
from  Captiva  Island. 

Captiva  and  Ln  Coata  Islands,  with  siindiy  small  reefs  and 
keys,  complete  the  barrier  that  divides  Pine  Island  Sound 


SAINT-JAMES-ON-THE-GULF— PUNTA  RASSA.       201 

from  the  Gulf.  The  first  is  nine  miles  long,  and  ranges 
from  ahnost  nothing  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  lia 
Costa  IS  7i  miles  long  and  one  mile  wide.  The  two  are 
sejiarated  by  Captiva  Pass,  practicable  for  small  boats. 

Pioita  RciRna,  4  miles  bv  water  (see  below). 

3Iyers,  18  miles  by  water  (see  Route  155). 


153.  Puuta  Rassa,  Lee  County. 

Lat.  26"  30'  N.— Long.  82"  W  W. 

Hotel. — The  Tarpon  Hotel,  $2  a  day,  $12  a  week,  $45  a  month. 
Steamboats,  same  as  St.  .lames-ou-the-Gulf,  p.  122. 

Row-boats.  82a  day  (|4  to $5  with  guide;.  Sail-boats,  $12  a  day,  with  skipper 
and  two  skiffs. 

Punta  Eassa  (Barren  Point)  forms  the  eastern  chop  of  San 
Carlos  i^ass  ;  an  exi^anse  of  scrub-grown  white  sand  with 
beautiful  beaches  and  a  deep  channel,  through  which  ocean 
currents  set  strongly  close  along  shore.  It  is  a  great  resort 
for  sportsmen  and  cattlemen,  being  the  principal  shipping 
point  of  live  stock  for  the  Cuban  markets.  The  accommoda- 
tions and  fare  are  not  such  as  will  prove  attractive  to  the 
luxuriously  inclined  tourist  and  his  family,  but  for  the  true 
fisherman  it  is  a  recognized  headquarters.  The  house  is  a 
large  unjiainted  wooden  sti-ucture,  rough  and  picturesque, 
and  with  equally  picturesque  surroundings,  including  exten- 
sive cattle-yards.  Sharks  of  the  largest  size  are  caught  from 
the  wharf  that  almost  serves  as  a  front  porch  for  the  hotel  ; 
the  best  tarpon-fishing  grounds  are  within  easy  rowing  dis- 
tance ;  the  huge  and  dangerous  devil-fish  may  be  harpooned 
just  outside  the  pass,  and  the  waters  of  the  bay  are  at  times 
literally  alive  with  all  the  game  fish  of  the  Gulf.  To  the 
south  and  east  is  the  wilderness  merging  into  the  Big  Cy- 
press swamp  and  the  Everglades,  almost  as  nature  made 
it,  save  that  hunters  have  well-nigh  exterminated  birds  of 
brilliant  i^lumage.  Game  birds  and  all  kinds  of  four-footed 
game  are  still  abundant. 


262  PUNTA  RASSA. 


The  Tarpon. 


Ifc  is  only  since  1885  that  the  tarpon  (Megnlops  ikrifisoides 
or  atlanticus)  has  been  recognized  as  a  game-fish.  He  had 
been  known  to  take  bait  prior  to  tliat  time,  but  had  been 
landed  onl}^  by  accident.  Otherwise  he  had  been  harpooned 
and  occasionally  taken  in  a  seine,  but  his  great  size,  strength, 
and  agility  enabled  him  to  defy  most  devices  for  his  capture. 
In  the  winter  of  1880-81,  Mr.  S.  H.  Jones,  of  Philadelphia,' 
killed  a  170-lb.  tarpon  with  bass  tackle  at  Indian  Eiver  Inlet. 
Mr.  W.  H.  Wood,  of  New  York,  was  the  first,  however,  to 
reduce  the  sport  to  a  science  by  patiently  studying  the  habits 
of  the  fish. 

The  familiar  home  of  the  tarpon  is  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and 
he  is  essentially  a  trojaical  fish.  Nevertheless  stray  speci- 
mens have  been  found,  in  summer,  as  far  north  as  Cape  Cod, 
and  they  are  certainly  abundant  in  Biscayne  Bay  and,  prob- 
ably, farther  up  the  east  coast  of  Florida.  Tarpon  may  now 
be  accei^ted  as  the  common  name  of  the  fish,  though  hereto- 
fore it  has  often  been  spelled  "tarpum,"  and  is  known  along 
the  remote  coasts  as  "  silver  king,"  "silver  fish,"  "  grande 
6caille "  among  French-speaking  Creoles,  and  "  savanilla  " 
on  the  coast  of  Texas.  Adult  sj^ecimens  often  exceed 
six  feet  in  length,  and  weigh  nearly  or  quite  two  hundred 
pounds. 

The  tarijon  is  herring-like  in  general  shape  and  appearance, 
has  an  enormous  mouth,  with  shear-like  sides  to  his  jaws, 
large,  fierce  eyes,  and  is  withal  gifted  with  an  exceptional 
degree  of  muscular  energy.  When  alive,  this  great  fish 
shades  off"  from  dark  oxidized  silver  along  the  back  to  the 
most  brilliant  of  metallic  silver  with  gleams  of  gold  along 
the  sides  and  head.  Even  in  death  the  big  scales  retain 
much  of  their  beauty.  The  tarpon  is  only  fairly  good  as  a 
table  fish.  The  coast  residents,  however,  dry  the  flesh  in 
the  open  air,  and  keep  it  as  an  article  of  food. 

Tarpon  fishing  is  not  all  fun,  since  he  does  not  readily  take 
the  bait.  Persevering,  but  unlucky,  fishermen  have  been 
known  to  sit  in  their  boats  several  hours  daily  for  weeks,  and 


PUNTA  RASSA.  263 

finally  give  up  in  despair,  without  having  secured  so  miich 
as  a  nibble. 

Special  tackle  is  now  made  for  this  sport,  to  wit,  rods  of 
sjilit-bamboo,  seven  to  nine  feet  long,  large  multiplying 
click  reels  that  will  hold  two  hundred  yards  of  (15  to  21 
thread)  linen  line.  The  reel  should  be  used  with  a  thumb- 
stall  or  equivalent  device,  and  a  favorite  hook  is  the  10/0 
Dublin-bend  Limerick,  forged  and  ringed.  How  best  to  rig 
the  snell  is  still  in  doubt.  It  must  be  twenty-four  to  twenty- 
eight  inches  long,  because  it  will  not  hold  unless  gorged  by 
the  fish.  No  hook  will  hold  in  the  armor-j^lated  mouth. 
Wire  and  small  chains  are  objectionable  because  sharks  fre- 
quently take  the  bait,  and  it  is  desirable  to  have  them  bite 
the  snell  in  two,  and  carry  off  the  hook  alone  instead  of  more 
or  less  line.  A  solid  snell  is  often  cut  by  the  shear-like 
action  of  the  tarpon's  jaw-plates.  Such  a  snell  passed 
through  a  small  rubber  tube  has  its  advocates,  but  many  of 
the  most  successful  fishermen  have  settled  upon  a  snell  made 
of  rather  loosely  laid  cotton  cod-line,  dyed  some  dark  color, 
so  as  to  be  nearly  invisible  when  wet.  It  is  difficult  for  the 
fish  to  cut  this  with  their  shears,  nor  is  he  so  apt  to  feel  it  be- 
fore fully  swallowing  the  bait.  A  good  tarjson  rod  may  cost 
from  ??12  to  §22 ;  a  reel  from  ^5  to  §35 ;  two  hundred  yards 
braided  linen  line,  say  §3  ;  snells,  if  shop-made,  §3  to  $5  a 
dozen ;  gaff,  §4  to  §10.     Complete  outfit,  say§25  upward. 

The  usual  bait  is  mullet,  half  the  fish  being  put  upon  the 
hook,  thrown  to  a  distance  from  the  boat,  and  allowed  to  sink 
to  the  bottom.  Then  there  is  nothing  to  do  but  wait,  and 
put  on  fresh  bait  every  hour.  The  tarpon  feeds  in  shoal 
water,  and  may  often  be  seen  prowling  about  and  stirring  np 
the  muddy  bottom.  When  he  takes  the  bait  he  must  be 
allowed  to  carry  off  a  dozen  yards  or  so  of  line  before  strik- 
ing. This  amount  of  line  is  often  unreeled  and  coiled  on 
a  thwart,  so  as  to  offer  no  resistance.  When  struck,  the 
fish  begins  a  series  of  leaps,  striving  to  shake  himself 
clear,  and  it  is  often  two  hours  before  he  is  so  far  exhausted 
that  he  can  be  brought  alongside  and  gaffed.  Experienced 
fishermen  say  that  the  protracted  excitement  of  landing  a 
tarpon  far  exceeds  that  afforded  by   the   salmon,    hitherto 


264 


PUNTA  RASSA. 


considered  the  kiDpc  of  game  fishes.  Small  tarpon,  ranging 
not  higher  than  40  or  50  pounds,  may  be  taken  with  any 
gaudy  fly  on  the  large  South  Florida  rivers  a  few  miles  from 
the  coast. 

The  official  tarjion  record  for  1889,  as  kept  at  Punta  Rassa, 
is  appended. 


1889. 


Feb.  28 
Mch.  2. 

"    4. 

"    7. 

"    8. 

"     9. 

"  If). 

"  18. 

"  21. 

"  21. 

"  22. 

"  23. 

"  2«, 

"  27. 

"  29. 

"  30. 
April  3. 

"    4. 

"    5. 

"    8. 

"    9. 

"    9. 

"  10. 

"  11. 

"  12. 

"  15. 

"  17. 

"  17. 

"  17. 

"  19, 

"  20. 

■'  20. 

"  21. 

"  22. 


C.  A.  Grymes 

W.  W.  Jacobus 

Thos.  E.  Tripler. . . 


Thos.  J.  Falls. 
Geo.  A.  Frost. 


6 

6 
5 
5 
5 
5 
5 
5 
Thos.  E.  Tripler. . .  6 

Geo.  A.  Frost fi 

Frank  L.  Anthony.  6 

Thos.  J.  Falls 5 

Thos.  E.  Tripler. . .  5 

Thos.  J.  Falls 5 

Geo.  A.  Frost 6 

E.  Prime 5 

O.  A.  Mygatt '5 

Thos.  B.  Astea jS 

Wni.  Thorne 6 

R.  K.  Mygatt 6 

Win.  E.  Thorne...  6 

...'4 

"         ...  5 

E.  Prime 6 

O.  A.  Mygatt 5 

R.  K.  Mvg.itt 9 

Wrn.  E.  Thorne...  6 
Thos.  B.  Asten  ...  5 
Frank L.  Anthony.  5 

R.  K.  Mygatt 5 

E.  Prime 6 

R.  K.  Mygatt.    ...  6 

Thos.  B.  Asten 6 

Frank  h.  Anthony.  '6 


^ 

J= 

ti 

1889. 

M 

^ 

2 

119 

Apr.  23. 

114 

'•    23. 

4 

m 

"    23. 

10 

115i^ 

"    23. 

9 

lU5i 

"    24. 

1 

7fi 

"    24. 

3 

77 

"    24. 

11 

132 

May    2. 

1 

137 

"      3. 

2i 

14H 

"      6 

3 

131 

"      7. 

11 

125 

"      8. 

(> 

90 

"      9. 

8 

99 

'•      9. 

127 

"    10. 

1 

.78 

"    11. 

2 

72 

"    13. 

1 

70 

"    14. 

2 

150 

"    14. 

1 

144 

"    14. 

4 

141 

"    15. 

11 

69 

'•    15. 

2 

85 

"    15. 

llfi 

"    16. 

8 

93 

"    16. 

7 

95 

"    16. 

4 

147 

"    16. 

9 

105 

"     17. 

8 

95 

"    17. 

2 

(il 

"    17. 

4 

134 

"    17. 

3 

llti 

"    18. 

1 

130 

"    18. 

1 

110 

E.  Prime 

Thos.  B.  Asten.... 
Frank  L.  Anthony . 


6 
fi 

4  10 

5  3 


E.  Prime 

Thos.  B.  Asten. 
E.  Prime 


5    142 

2*  125 
.55 

77 


4  SO 

2  135 

5  145 
9  98 

3  115 
8  I  53 


5  10^  125J 

6  2  139f 
5  5  93i 
5    10    109 

5  ,11  108 
IJ     3i  126 

6  i  106 

5  I  9i     94 

6  2    105* 

5  6i    92i 

6  !  1  119 
5  lOi'  94 
5  ilOiilOl 

4  64    56 

5  i  6 

6  U 

6  r 


79 

1341 

12(1  J 

14«i 

io.-i 

133* 
153 

12(1| 
98* 


The  tarpon  season  begins  in  March  and  improves  for 
sporting  purposes  as  the  weather  grows  warmer.  Thus  far, 
Charlotte  Harbor,  in  the  vicinity  of  Punta  Rassa,  has  proved 
the  best  fishing-ground,  but  this  is  probably  because  the 
habits  of  the  game  in  that  vicinity  have  been  more  thor- 
oughly studied  than  elsewhere.      Tarpon  certainly  abound 


PUNTA   RASSA— THE   CALOOSA    RIVER.  265 

all  along  the  Gulf  coast,  and  in  a  lesser  degree  on  the  At- 
lantic coast,  as  far  up  as  the  St.  John's  River.  In  February, 
1S89,  the  upper  reaches  of  Biscayne  Bay  were  alive  with 
them,  and  the  residents  thereabout  were  spearing  them  at 
will.  Four  skilled  fishermen,  however,  failed  to  induce 
them  to  bite,  probably  because  it  was  too  early  in  the  sea- 
son. 

Etiquette  among  tarpon  fishers  prescribes  that  when  a  fish 
is  hooked,  boats  near  at  hand  shall  up  anchor  and  keep  out 
of  the  way. 


154.  The  Caloosa  River. 

Caloosa  was  the  name  of  the  native  tribe  dominant  in  this 
region  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  discovery;  "hatchee" 
meant  "  river  "  in  their  tongue,  and  still  survives  in  the  Sem- 
inole dialect.  The  Caloosas  were  a  powerful  and  warlike 
tribe,  their  province  extending  as  far  north  as  Tampa,  and 
embracing  some  fifty  villages.  Fontanedo  translates  "  Ca- 
loosa" as  "village  cruel,"  which,  with  a  liberal  interpreta- 
tion, is  suggestive  as  regards  the  disposition  of  the  j^opula- 
tiou.  For  about  twenty-three  miles  from  San  Carlos  Bay  the 
river  maintains  a  width  of  from  one  mile  to  two  miles,  with 
a  depth  of  seven  feet.  The  shores  are,  for  the  most  part, 
low,  with  occasional  hammock  islands  and  broad  savannas. 

From  Punta  Rassa  on  the  south  to  Sword  Point  on  the 
north,  the  mouth  of  the  Caloosa  is  a  trifle  over  three  miles 
wide.  The  largest  and  most  southerly  of  the  three  islands 
lying  off  the  entrance  is  Fisherman's  Key.  There  are  count- 
less unnamed  keys  lying  in  every  direction,  some  covered 
witli  mangroves  and  others  with  palms  and  hammock.  The 
channel  is  very  tortuous,  with  barely  seven  feet  at  low  tide, 
but  it  becomes  deeper  three  miles  above  Punta  Rassa,  where, 
after  first  narrowing  to  half  a  mile,  the  stream  widens  to 
1|  mile.  Four  miles  farther  it  again  narrows,  with  Redfish 
Point  on  the  north  and  Palmetto  Point  on  the  south,  and  a 
channel  twenty-three  feet  deep.  This  is  a  favorite  fish- 
ing-ground.    East  of  Palmetto  Point  is  a  bay  known  as  Big 


266  THE  CALOOSA  RIVER. 

Slough,  opening  into  a  broad  savanna.  Two  miles  beyond 
is  Niggerhead  Point,  and  beyond  this  again  the  pretty  town 
of  Fort  Myers  (see  Route  155).  Six  miles  above  Myers  the 
character  of  the  river  changes  abruptly.  The  banks  rise  to 
a  height  of  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  the  stream  narrows  to  sixty 
yards,  with  a  deep,  strong  current,  and  the  l)anks  are  covered 
with  a  dense  hammock  growth,  an  infallible  sign  of  rich 
land.  Human  habitations  are  few  and  far  between.  The 
river  receives  constant  accessions  from  springs  and  streams, 
usually  of  cool  pure  water.  Twelve  miles  above  Myers  the 
telegraph  line  crosses  the  river  at  Parkinson's  Ferry.  A  mile 
further  is  Olga,  near  the  sites — now  hardly  to  be  discovered 
without  careful  search — of  Fort  Simmons  on  the  north,  and 
Fort  Denaud  on  the  south,  bank.  The  first  named  was  little 
more  than  a  fortified  picket  post.  The  second  was  a  station 
of  some  imi^ortance,  established  in  the  winter  of  1837-.38  by 
Captain  B.  L.  E.  Bonneville,  of  the  Seventh  Infantry,  and 
named  after  the  owner  of  the  land.  The  site  of  the  fort  was 
two  miles  from  the  landing  that  now  bears  its  name.  The  fort 
was  strongly  garrisoned  during  the  closing  years  of  the  Semi- 
nole war  ;  and  from  it  Lieutenant  J.  T.  McLaughlin,  U.S.N., 
set  out  early  in  November,  1841,  with  a  force  of  150  seamen 
and  marines,  to  explore  the  then  unknown  Everglades.  They 
crossed  the  peninsula,  reaching  the  Atlantic  coast  by  way  of 
Biscayne  Bay.  Fort  Denaud  was  abandoned  shortly  after 
this,  reoccui)ied  in  1849,  again  abandoned,  and  once  more 
occupied  in  1855,  and  at  length,  in  1857,  finally  evacuated,  the 
garrison  moving  to  Fort  Simmons  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
river  (sometimes  called  New  Fort  Denaud).  Here  a  garrison 
was  maintained  till  1858,  when  it  was  withdrawn  to  Fort 
Myers. 

Hollingsicortlt  Ferry,  10  miles  above  Myers,  is  the  jDriucipal 
crossing  place  for  cattle  bound  to  Punta  Eassa.  Aha,  20 
miles  above  Myers,  is  a  jiost-ofiice  with  quite  a  little  settle- 
ment in  its  neighborhood. 

About  thirty-five  miles  above  Myers  is  Lale  Flirt,  named 
after  a  government  schooner  that  was  on  duty  in  Florida 
waters  at  the  time  of  McLaughlin's  expedition.  Swift  water 
is  encountei'ed  before  reaching  the  lake.     This  lake,  so  far  as 


THE  CALOOSA  RIVER— FORT  MYERS.  2G7 

known,  was  first  visited  by  white  men  in  July,  1832,  the  ex- 
plorers being  W.  R.  Hackley  and  P.  B.  Prior,  representatives 
of  a  New  York  land  company.  Fort  Thomjison,  at  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Flirt,  was  a  temporary  post  established  to  intimi- 
date the  Seminoles.  From  this  i^oint  to  Okeechobee  Lake 
the  river  flows  through  the  borders  of  the  Everglades.  Nat- 
urally its  upper  reaches  were  not  navigable,  but  the  opera- 
tions of  the  Okeechobee  Drainage  Company  have  opened  a 
canal  through  Lake  Hickpochee,  practicable  for  boats  draw- 
ing five  feet. 


155.  Fort  Myers,  Lee  County  (C.  H.). 

Popiil<ation,  700. 

Lat.  26"  37'  N.— Long.  81"  50'  W. 

Hotel.— jT/^e  Cahosa  Hotel,  $2  a  day. 

Steamboat  to  Punta  Gorda  three  times  a  week. 

Hunter  and  gnide,  Taylor  Frierson. 

As  its  name  implies,  Myers  was  originally  a  military  post. 
It  was  named  after  Captain  Abraham  C.  Myers,  of  the  Fourth 
Infantry,  who  served  in  the  Florida  war  and  was  afterward 
brevetted  lieutenant-colonel  for  gallantry  in  the  war  with 
Mexico.  He  resigned  his  commission  to  join  the  Confeder- 
ate States  service  in  1861.  In  1858  the  troops  from  Fort  De- 
naud  were  removed  to  this  point,  palisade  outworks  were 
erected,  and  j^ermanent  quarters  built,  only  to  be  abandoned 
shortly  afterward.  During  the  war  for  secession  it  was  oc- 
cupied alternately  by  United  States  and  Confederate  troops, 
but  it  was  a  point  of  no  strategic  importance,  and  neither  side 
cared  particularly  either  to  hold  or  capture  it.  In  1888  the 
remains  of  the  soldiers  who  died  here  during  the  Seminole 
war,  were  removed  by  the  Government  to  the  burial-ground 
at  Pensacola. 

Fort  Myers  presents  an  attractive  aspect  to  the  approach- 
ing voyager  by  river,  for  as  yet  the  natural  waterway  affords 
the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  outside  world. 
Several  wharves  extend  from  the  shore  to  the  edge  of  the 
channel.  The  houses  are  for  the  most  part  shaded  by  tropi- 
cal trees,  some  of  them  not  found  elsewhere  in  Florida. 
Among  these  are  several  noble  specimens  of  the  date-palm, 


208  FORT  MYERS. 

royal  i)alm,  betel-nut,  and  giant  liamboo.  A  street  of  gen- 
erous width  runs  parallel  to  the  river  some  two  hundrfd 
yards  from  the  waterside,  with  good  sidewalks  and  bordered 
by  overhanging  orange-groves  and  gardens  wherein  grow  all 
kinds  of  wonderful  plants,  among  them,  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  are  tamarinds,  citrons,  mangoes,  guavas,  all  the 
citrous  fruits,  pineapples,  pomegranates,  cocoa  palms,  and 
all  the  moro  common  tropical  and  semi-tropical  growths  that 
are  found  throughout  the  State.  A  short  distance  west  of  the 
Caloosa  Hotel  is  the  residence  of  Major  James  Evans,  near 
whose  house  are  a  number  of  jjalm-trees  of  species  not  to  be 
found  elsewhere  on  the  mainland.  On  the  trunks  of  some  of 
these  may  be  seen  the  marks  of  the  rare  frosts  that  at  long  in- 
tervals visit  this  region.  In  the  same  enclosure  are  clumps  of 
bamboo,  some  of  them  sixty  or  seventy  feet  high.  A  j^eculiar- 
ity  of  their  growth  is  that  before  they  reach  their  full  develop- 
ment their  roots  reach  the  underlying  limestone  rock,  and  the 
whole  i^lant  is  lifted  bodily  from  the  ground.  A  few  steps 
farther  west  is  a  peculiarly  symmetrical  and  vigorous  specimen 
of  the  date-palm,  standing  somewhat  back  from  the  street 
and  surrounded  by  a  walled  mound  of  earth.  This  is  within 
the  old  government  reservation,  and  tradition  has  it  that  the 
tree  was  planted  by  the  late  General  Hancock,  who  was  sta- 
tioned here  during  1856  and  1857.  At  the  lower  end  of  the 
street  are  houses  and  laboratories  erected  by  Thomas  Edison, 
the  famous  electrician,  with  a  view  to  pursuing  his  scientific 
researches  where  they  cannot  be  interrupted  by  cold  weather. 

Fort  Myers  is  still  a  frontier  town,  for,  if  we  excejit 
Naples,  there  is  not  another  settlement  between  this  and 
Cape  Sable  on  the  south  and  the  Atlantic  coast  on  the  east, 
A  large  part  of  this  region  is  available  for  stock-raising,  and 
cattle-ranches  are  scattered  throughout  the  wilderness,  where 
at  intervals  the  stock  is  "  rounded  up "  and  branded  by 
parties  of  cowboys. 

Excursions  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Myers  are  in  the 
main  limited  to  the  river  (see  Route  154),  but  it  is  possible  to 
ride  or  drive  for  many  miles  in  any  direction.  Good  shooting 
is  to  be  foimd  everywhere,  and  large  game  ranges  up  to  the 
outskirts  of  the  settlement. 


LAKE  OKEECHOBEE,  269 


156.  Lake  Okeechobee,  Dade,  De  Soto,  and  Lee 
Couuties. 

Between  Lat.  26"  40'  aud  27°  11'  N.,  and  Long.  80"  29' and  81"  W.— Eleva- 
tion above  sea-level  20.24  feet. — Area  about  1,250  square  miles. 

To  the  Spaniards  the  lake  was  vaguely  known  by  report  of 
the  natives  as  Myacco,  or  Myaxo,  and  later  by  its  present 
name,  signifying  "Big  Water."  When  Jacob  Le  Moyne 
made  his  map  of  Florida  in  1560,  or  thereabout,  he  placed  a 
large  lake  in  the  middle  of  the  peninsula,  and  made  this 
note  beside  it.  "  Adeo  magnus  est  hie  lacus  ut  ex  una  rqxi 
conspici  alter  a  nonpossit."  (So  great  is  this  lake  that  one 
bank  cannot  be  seen  from  the  other.)  And  not  so  very  much 
more  is  known  about  it  to  this  day.  Le  Moyne's  informa- 
tion seems  to  have  been  more  trustworthy  than  William 
Darby's,  whose  mai?,  published  in  1821,  ignores  the  Kissim- 
meeEiver  altogether,  and  shows  the  lake  as  Lagoona  Mayax : 
a  grass-grown  swamp.  John  Lee  Williams,  writing  of  this 
region  in  1837,  says  :  "  The  great  lakes  that  are  believed  to 
supply  these  rivers  are  wholly  unknown." 

There  is  a  tradition,  not  well  authenticated,  to  the  effect 
that  one  of  the  Spani-sh  governors  sent  an  expedition  to 
Myacco,  as  the  great  lake  was  then  called,  to  search  for 
pearls,  but  no  proofs  have  been  discovered. 

The  Seminole  war  led  to  a  partial  exploration  by  Lieu- 
tenant John  T.  McLaughlin,  U.S.N. ,  who,  in  November, 
18-il,  led  a  force  of  seamen  and  marines  to  the  lake,  skirt- 
ing its  southern  shore,  taking  daily  observations  of  lati- 
tude and  longitude,  aud  making  the  first  trustworthy  report 
as  to  the  topography  of  this  region.  During  that  war  it 
was  frequently  visited  by  scouting  parties,  and  the  second 
outbreak  of  the  Seminoles,  in  1856-57,  led  to  further  mili- 
tary expeditions.  A  decisive  engagement,  known  as  the 
Battle  of  Okeechobee,  took  place  near  the  northern  end  of 
the  lake,  December  25,  1837.  During  the  Civil  War  the  lake 
afforded  a  safe  retreat  for  fugitives  from  the  Confederate 
service,  and  it  has  since  been  frequently  visited  by  hunters 
and  camj)ing  parties,  but  it  has  never  been  accurately  sur- 


270    LAKli  OKEECHOBEE— THE  EVERGLADES. 

veyed,  and  neither  its  exact  dimensions  nor  the  details  of 
its  coast  lino  known  with  any  degree  of  accuracy.  In  1881 
Mr.  Kirk  Munroe  made  a  solitary  voyage  of  exploration  in  a 
canoe,  and  nearly  perished  before  he  conld  make  his  way 
out  again.  He  wrote  and  i^ublished  an  interesting  account 
of  his  adventures. 

The  lake  is  for  the  most  part  surrounded  by  a  wide  belt  of 
"  big  saw-grass,"  through  which  it  is  well-nigh  impossible 
for  human  beings  to  i^enetrate.  Camping-places  are  few 
along  shore,  very  difficult  to  find,  and  liable  to  be  sub- 
merged by  a  change  of  wind.  The  water  is  shallow,  rarely 
more  than  15  feet  deep,  but  it  is  drinkable,  and  there  are 
plenty  of  fish  and  water-fowl. 

Parties  visiting  the  lake  should  either  make  the  trip  in  a 
launch  capable  of  running  into  the  lake  and  back  to  the  set- 
tlements irrespective  of  weather,  or  else  in  a  boat  provided 
with  good  cabin  accommodations,  ample  supplies,  and  com- 
petent guides. 

The  lake  ofi'ers  few  attractions  save  its  mysterious  char- 
acter. The  shores  are  low  and  uninteresting,  and  except  at 
a  few  points  landing  is  jiractically  impossible.  Fort  Myers, 
on  the  Caloosahatchee,  is  the  most  accessible  settlement, 
about  50  miles  from  the  lake  shore,  though  Jupiter  and 
Lake  Worth,  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  are  really  nearer  in  a 
straight  line.  Numerous  streams  flow  into  the  lake  from 
the  north  and  west,  and  there  are  several  small  islands  near 
the  southern  end,  where  the  open  water  gives  way  to  the 
grass-grown  Everglades. 


157.  The  Everglades. 

This  vast  tract  of  shallow  water  thickly  overgi'own  with 
reeds  and  grass,  lies  in  Dade,  Lee,  and  Munroe  Counties,  to 
the  southward  and  eastward  of  Okeechobee  Lake.  It  is  not 
a  swamp  in  the  ordinary  meaning  of  the  term,  but  rather  a 
shallow  lake  with  a  hard  rock  bottom,  and  grass  growing  to 
a  height  of  four  or  five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 
This  sea  of  grass  is  studded  with  numerous  islands,  many  of 
them  habitable,  and  some  of  them  occupied  and  cultivated  by 


THE  EVERGLADES— NAPLES.  271 

the  remnant  of  the  Seminole  tribes.  Through  this  tract  wind 
numerous  channels  navigable  for  canoes,  which  are  pushed 
through  the  grass  with  setting  poles.  The  Seminole  of  the 
Everglades  hardly  knows  the  use  of  paddles  or  oars.  The 
Everglades  have  never  been  surveyed,  though  during  the 
Seminole  wars  they  were  pretty  well  explored  by  scouting 
parties,  whose  business  was  to  catch  Indians,  not  make  maps. 
In  the  winter,  the  climate  of  the  Everglades  is  not  bad,  the 
water  is  drinkable,  the  channels  are  alive  with  fish,  and  game 
is  abundant.  But  it  is  very  easy  to  get  hopelessly  lost,  and 
the  labor  of  following  a  compass  course  through  the  tall 
grass  is  very  exhausting.  The  Indians  are  disposed  to  be 
friendly  when  not  crazed  with  drink  ;  but  they  can  rarely 
be  persuaded  to  act  as  guides  to  their  retreats,  and  they 
discourage  all  parties  of  hunters  and  explorers  from  jsene- 
trating  the  "Glades."  Injudicious  intrusion  upon  their 
hunting  grounds  might  easily  provoke  active  resentment,  for 
they  are  well  armed,  and  their  tempers  are  not  always  an- 
gelic. 

The  Everglades  are  most  easily  reached  from  Okeechobee 
by  following  up  some  creek,  or  from  Biscayne  Bay  by  as- 
cending Arch  Creek,  or  the  Miami  Eiver.  By  this  latter 
route  a  day's  excursion  may  take  one  well  into  the  edge  of 
the  "  Glades."     (See  Koute  200.) 


158.  Naples,  Lee  County. 

Lat.  26°  IC  N.— Long.  81"  54'  W. 

Naples  is  the  most  southerly  settlement  on  the  mainland 
of  the  Gulf  coast.  It  has  a  weekly  mail  service  by  steam- 
boat from  St.  James  and  Punta  Gorda,  and  is  jileasantly 
situated  on  a  sandy  peninsula  with  good  elevation  above  the 
sea.  The  region  has  been  surveyed  with  a  view  to  its  be- 
coming a  resort,  and  strict  rules  as  regards  the  location  of 
stables,  etc. ,  on  the  streets  have  been  adojited.  Miss  Eoso 
Cleveland,  sister  of  President  Cleveland,  was  one  of  the  first 
Northerners  to  acquire  proj^erty  there,  with  a  view  to  making 


272  NAPLES. 

it  her  winter  residence.  Naples  is  thirty-eiglit  miles  south 
of  Punta  Kassa. 

Miilco,  the  most  southerly  settlement  on  the  Gulf  coast,  is 
on  an  island  thirteen  miles  south  of  Naples,  and  receives  its 
mail  by  special  service,  which  means  at  irregular  intervals, 
or  when  there  is  any  mail  to  be  delivered. 

South  of  Punta  Eassa  the  coast  is,  in  the  main,  uninhabit- 
able, low  and  swampy,  overgrown  with  mangroves,  and  in 
short,  in  process  of  being  turned  into  dry  land  by  the  slow 
methods  of  nature.  The  Big  Cyjiress  Swamp  borders  the 
coast  and  merges  into  the  Everglades  inland,  and  into  man- 
grove keys  toward  the  Gulf.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  great  vol- 
umes of  water  flow  outward  from  the  Everglades,  and  there 
are  several  goodly  streams  known  to  hunters,  but  whose 
precise  location  has  never  been  determined.  Shark  Kiver, 
for  instance,  was  visited  by  scouting  parties  during  the 
Seminole  war,  but  later  attempts  to  find  it  proved  unsuc- 
cessful, and  its  very  existence  is  questioned  by  some  recent 
explorers,  who  claim  to  have  made  thorough  search.  Navi- 
gation along  this  coast  is  very  difficult,  even  for  small  boats. 
The  Government  is  now  engaged  in  making  comj^lete  sur- 
veys, where  none  have  heretofore  been  attempted. 


Middle  Florida. 

Between  the  27th  and  30th  parallels  of  north  latitude,  lies 
the  richest  section  of  the  Florida  peninsula.  Parallels  of 
latitude,  however,  do  not  accurately  define  its  limits.  The 
Suwannee  River  on  the  noi'th,  and  the  Caloosahatchee  on  the 
south,  more  nearly  mark  the  natural  boundaries.  Within 
this  region  lie  the  best  agricultural  lands,  whether  for  the 
citrous  fruits  or  for  the  early  field  and  garden  crops  that  are 
becoming  now  so  important  for  the  supply  of  Northern 
markets.  In  round  numbers,  this  section  embraces  an  area 
of  about  20,000  square  miles,  a  considerable  fraction  of 
which,  including  savannas  and  the  like,  is  unfit  for  cultiva- 
tion ;  and  still  another  fraction  is  covered  by  beautiful  lakes 
and  water-courses  which  provide  natural  irrigation  and  add 
greatly  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  country.  The  native 
l^ine  forest  still  covers  the  land  from  ocean  to  gulf,  save 
where,  as  along  the  railways,  it  has  given  place  to  orange 
groves  and  clearings,  or  where  hammocks  vary  the  monot- 
ony of  straight  pine-trunks  with  the  gnarled  boughs  of  live 
oak,  or  a  tangle  of  bays,  palms,  and  wild  orange  trees.  The 
forest  land  is  all  of  good  quality,  except  where  it  degener- 
ates into  cypress  swamps,  pine  fiats,  or  hammock  so  low  as 
to  be  incapable  of  drainage.  To  the  stranger,  much  of  the 
cleared  land  looks  not  unlike  an  ordinary  sea-beach,  but 
after  he  has  seen  square  miles  of  thriving  orange-groves 
growing  out  of  this  bare  desert,  he  may  realize  that  Florida 
sand  is  not  like  that  of  other  lands.  The  fact  is  that  this 
soil  is  very  rich  in  limes  and  jjhosphates,  is  often  underlaid, 
covered,  or  mingled  with  vegetable  mould  resulting  from 
ages  of  accumulation  and  decomposition. 

To  the  ordinary  traveller  Florida  seems  a  level  forest-cov- 
ered plain,  varied  by  occasional  ranges  of  bluffs,  and  inter- 
spersed with  countless  lakes.  If  lie  is  observant,  he  will 
notice  that  above  tide-water  the  streams  flow  with  a  strong 
current,  indicating  a  considerable  elevation  at  the  source, 
and  if  he  consults  the  toj^ographical  engineers  he  will  learn 
that  the  central  ridge  of  the  peninsula  averages  several  hun- 
18 


274  MIDDLE  FLORIDA. 

drecl  feet  above  tide -water,  reaching  its  greatest  height, 
nearly  500  feet,  near  "  Table  Mountain,"  in  Lake  County. 
In  the  office  of  the  Plant  Investment  Co.,  Jacksonville,  is 
a  large  relief  map  of  Florida  that  well  merits  inspection. 
The  idea  of  the  map  originated  with  Mr.  D.  H.  Elliott,  gen- 
eral agent  of  the  Associated  Railway  Land  Office,  and  was 
intended  to  dispel  the  popular  notion  that  Florida  is  a  mo- 
notonous level.  The  map  is  15  feet  by  30,  and  is  jilanned 
on  a  vertical  scale  of  50  feet  to  one  inch,  and  a  horizontal 
scale  of  2  miles  to  one  inch.  To  the  careless  observer  the 
disproiiortion  between  the  horizontal  and  vertical  scales  is 
misleading,  for  with  identical  scales  on  a  map  of  this  size  a 
hill  of  500  feet  would  be  less  than  one-fourth  of  an  inch  high, 
and,  of  course,  practically  invisible.  Making  due  allowance, 
however,  for  the  exaggerated  vertical  scale,  the  map  conveys 
an  excellent  idea  of  the  topography  of  the  State.  It  was  con- 
structed by  T.  C.  Leutze  for  the  S.  F.  k  W.  Railway  Co., 
and  was  sent  to  the  World's  Fair  at  New  Orleans  in  the 
Avinter  of  1884r-85. 

To  the  tourist  or  invalid  this  region  ofiers  an  endless  vari- 
ety of  attractions  in  climate,  scenery,  game,  and  out-of-door 
life  in  general.  He  may  ride  or  walk  through  open  forests 
of  pine  where  there  are  plenty  of  quail  and  a  chance  for  deer 
and  turkey  ;  he  may  shoot  for  squirrels  in  the  hammocks, 
and  in  the  wilder  regions  may  secure  the  pelt  of  cougar, 
tiger-cat,  or  black  bear.  The  water-courses  are  almost  all 
navigable  for  canoes  nearly  or  quite  to  their  sources,  and  one 
cannot  follow  one  of  them  far  without  encountering  some 
kind  of  wild  creature,  interesting  at  all  events  for  its  own 
sake,  and  perhaps  legitimate  prey  for  rod  or  gun. 

The  great  railway  systems  of  Florida  cross  the  midland 
region  in  all  directions.  See  general  map,  and  for  stations  and 
distances,  consult  county  maps  and  context.  The  St.  John's, 
the  Ocklawaha  Rivers,  and  the  several  lake  regions  of  the  in- 
terior, afford  steam-boat  routes  tlirougli  many  of  the  most 
picturesque  regions  of  the  State,  including  the  wonderful 
springs  described  elsewhere.  "Within  this  section,  too,  are 
the  remarkable  phos2)hates  recently  discovered,  which  prom- 
ise to  add  vastly  to  the  wealth  and  prosperity  of  the  State. 


MIDDLE  FLORIDA— SAKFORD.         275 

Within  the  general  boundaries  indicated  above  are  three 
regular  stations  of  the  U.  S.  Signal  Service,  namely,  Jack- 
sonville, Sanford,  and  Cedar  Key,  representing  approximately 
the  eastern,  inland,  and  western  sections  of  Middle  Florida. 
Observations  for  temperature  have  been  kept  at  these  stations 
for  several  years.  Taking  the  average  temperatures  recorded 
at  the  three,  we  have  the  following  result :  Spring,  70.3° ; 
summer,  81.2°;  autumn,  71.8°  ;  winter,  57.16°.  This  state- 
ment for  winter  does  not  fairly  represent  the  climate,  for, 
in  point  of  fact,  the  occasional  "  northers  "  unduly  reduce 
the  average  temperature,  which  in  fair  winter  weather  is 
from  65°  to  70°.  From  the  returns  of  the  same  stations,  the 
following  is  approximately  the  monthly  average  of  clear  or 
fair  days,  when  it  is  pleasant  to  be  out  of  doors  :  January,  23  ; 
February,  23  ;  March,  27  ;  April,  26  ;  May,  27  ;  June,  25  ;  July, 
27  ;  August,  27  ;  September,  25  ;  October,  26  ;  November,  23  ; 
December,  26.  The  Weather  Service,  how-ever,  separates  its 
tables  of  clouds  and  rainfall,  so  that,  of  the  65  days  not 
accounted  for  above,  a  considerable  proportion  are  not  of 
necessity  what  would  be  called  rainy. 

The  average  rainfall  is  as  follows:  Spring,  9.24  inches; 
summer,  21.36  inches ;  autumn,  12.88  inches ;  winter,  8.55 
inches.  Thus  it  api^ears  that  summer  is  distinctly  the  rainy 
season,  while  the  winter  months,  December,  January,  and 
February  have  the  lightest  rainfall.  (For  comparative 
weather  tables  see  page  377.) 


160.  Sanford  to  Tampa  Bay  and  Port  Tampa. 

By  South  Florida  Railroad,  124  miles  (5  hours  30  minutes).  For  stations  and 
distances,  see  pp.  70,  73,  79,  and  maps  of  Orange,  Polk,  and  Hillsborough 
Counties. 

For  the  first  forty  miles,  to  Kissimmee,  the  line  runs 
nearly  south,  bearing  a  little  to  the  westward.  Passing  Win- 
ter Park,  one  of  the  prettiest  places  in  Florida,  and  Orlando, 
the  busy  county  town  of  one  of  the  most  prosperous  coun- 
ties in  the  State,  the  train  presently  leaves  the  high  rolling 
pine  lands  and  enters  upon  a  comparatively  level  tract  ex- 
tending to  the  Kissimmee  group  of  lakes.     Thence  curving 


27G  SANFORD— WINTER  PARK. 

to  tlie  westward,  it  crosses  Daveni^ort  Creek,  a  tributaiy  of 
the  Kissiinmee,  and  at  Haines  City  enters  the  Polk  County 
lake  region,  which  drains  into  Charlotte  Harbor.  At  Lake- 
land the  train  divides,  part  going  southward  to  Punta 
Gorda  (Route  151)  and  part  westward  to  Tampa  and  Port 
Tampa,  there  connecting  with  the  Ward  Line  Plant  Steam- 
ship Line  to  Key  West,  Havana,  New  Orleans,  and  Mobile  ; 
also  with  coastwise  steamers  to  Manatee  River,  the  Pinellas 
Peninsula,  Orange  Belt  Railway,  and  the  different  Bay 
ports  (Routes  130  to  142). 

The  route  passes  through  four  counties,  namely  :  Orange, 
Osceola,  Polk,  and  Hillsborough.  For  stations  and  dis- 
tances, see  maps  and  descrijitious  in  beginning  of  handbook, 
and  consult  Contents. 


161.  Winter  Park,  Orange  County. 

Population,  600.— Lat.  28°  33'  N.— Long.  81°  20'  W.— Elevation,  92  feet 
above  St.  John's  River. 

Hotels. — The  Seminole.  14  a  day. — Rorjers  Hotel,  f2  to  $2.50  a  day. 

Railroad.— The  South  Florida  Railroad,  south  to  Tampa  and  Punta  Gorda ; 
the  J.  T.  A  K.  W.  north  to  Sanford,  Jacksonville,  etc.  Three  trains  daily. 
The  Orlando  &  Winter  Park  Ry.  to  Orlando,  4  miles  south. 

2'rainway  from  station  to  hotels. 

CAitrc/ies.— Congregational  and  Episcopal. 

On  leaving  the  train  the  traveller  at  once  notes  an  air  of 
neatness  and  thrift  in  streets,  houses,  and  stores.  The  busi- 
ness blocks  are  mainly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  railroad  station. 
Elsewhere  are  charming  cottages,  often  overlooking  one  or 
another  of  the  several  lakes.  Well-laid  board  walks  are  a 
pleasant  relief  from  the  deep  sand  often  encountered,  and 
convenient  tramways  and  excellent  livery  stables  afford  fa- 
cilities for  those  who  would  rather  ride  than  walk.  From 
the  observatory  of  the  Seminole  Hotel  fourteen  lakes  are  in 
sight,  though  some  of  them  can  hardly  be  detected  by  a 
stranger  without  the  aid  of  a  local  expert.  The  outlook, 
however,  covers  a  most  alluring  lake  region,  set  in  a  land  of 
wooded  hills  often  rising  boldly  from  the  waterside,  here 
clothed  with  the  native  forest,  and  there  showing  the  deep 
green  and  gold  of    orange-groves.     The  largest  lakes  sur- 


WINTER  PARK.  277 

rounding  the  town  are  Maitlaiid  to  the  north,  Osceola  and 
Virginia  west  and  south,  and  Killarney  east.  Many  of  these, 
as  well  as  the  smaller  intervening  lakes,  are  connected  by 
channels  navigable  often  for  launches,  and  always  for  small 
boats,  of  v.hich  there  is  a  good  supply  at  the  hotel  landings. 
A  steam-launch  makes  two  round  trips  daily  through  Lakes 
Osceola  and  Virginia  (fare  25c.),  a  very  pleasant  excursion. 

The  I'ailway  to  Orlando,  after  passing  between  Lakes 
Mizell  and  Virginia,  skirts  the  north  shore  of  the  latter  and 
turns  southward,  crossing  a  creek  to  Lake  Sue.  Then,  in 
succession,  are  Lakes  Estelle,  Eowena,  Formosa,  Ivanhoe, 
Highland,  and  Concord,  the  last  within  the  borders  of  Or- 
lando. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  public  park  of  ten  acres, 
surrounding  the  railroad  station,  and  the  general  i)lan  of 
streets  and  boulevards  is  excellent. 

Within  easy  driving  distance  is  Clay  Spring,  across  which 
strong  swimmers  strive  iu  vain  to  jiass,  so  powerful  is  the 
upward  rush  of  water  through  a  dark  chasm  in  the  rock. 
Lake  Apopka,  one  of  the  large  lakes  of  Florida,  is  twelve 
miles  to  the  westward,  and  to  the  eastward  is  a  wide,  un- 
settled region,  where  hunters  may  find  the  large  and  small 
game  of  the  Florida  woods. 

Rollins  College,  situated  on  a  high  bluff  overlooking  Lake 
Virginia,  is  open  from  October  to  May,  inclusive.  It  has 
handsome  and  well-appointed  buildings,  and  is  designed  to 
afford  facilities  for  collegiate  training  to  residents  and  to 
Northerners  whose  health  demands  a  mild  winter  climate. 

Winter  Park  was  a  wilderness  in  1881.  It  was  founded 
and  developed  by  Messrs.  Loring  A.  Chase,  of  Chicago,  and 
Mr.  Oliver  E.  Chairman,  of  Canton,  Mass. 


278  ORLANDO. 


162.  Orlando,  Orange  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  10,000. 

Hotels  (rates  by  the  day). — Charleston  House,  $3. — Magnolia  Uoiise,  $.2.50  to 
$3. —  Wilcox  Hoitfc,  %'i.—  Windsor  Hotel,  $3. 

Railroads. — South  Florida,  north  to  Sanford,  Indian  River,  Jacksonville, 
etc.  ;  south  to  Tampa  and  Punta  Gorda.  And  the  Tavares.  Orlando  &  Atlantic 
Railroad  west  to  Tavares,  Leesburg.  etc. 

Churches.— Koxaiva  Catholic,  Baptist,  Congregational,  Episcopal,  Methodist. 

JBanks. — National  Bank  of  Orlando. — Orlando  Loan  aud  Savings  Bank. 

In  location  and  topographical  surroundings  Orlando  is 
identical  with  its  more  rural  neighbor,  Winter  Park ;  but  as 
a  business  centre,  with  the  county  court-houses,  stores,  manu- 
factories, and  the  industrial  activities  of  a  rich  and  product- 
ive region,  it  has  a  distinctive  and,  commercially  speaking, 
far  more  important  life  of  its  own. 

From  Orlando  to  Winter  Park  is  a  short  and  pleasant  ride 
by  rail  (4  miles,  25  minutes)  or  carriage  road.  To  Tavares, 
Leesburg,  and  Lake  Apopka,  there  is  direct  and  easy  com- 
munication by  rail,  and  by  the  Orange  Belt  Railway  to  Tar- 
pon Springs  and  the  Pinellas  Peninsula.  All  kinds  of  sup- 
plies for  hunting  and  fishing  expeditions  can  be  procured  to 
good  advantage  in  the  city,  and  guides  can  be  secured  for 
extended  hunting  expeditions  toward  the  headwaters  of  the 
St.  John's  River,  thirty  miles  to  the  eastward. 


KISSIMMEE.  279 


163.  Kissimmee,  Osceok  County  (C.  H.). 

Population  (1890),  1,082.    Lat.  28"  15'  N.— Long.  81"  26'  W. 

Hotels.— J'/ic  Tropical,  $3.50  a,  Aay. — The  Kissiinmee  House,  Osceola  Hotel, 
South  Florida  Hotel.     Board.  $G  to  $10  a  week. 

Railroads.— The  South  Florida  R.  R.  (J.  T.  &  K.  W.  System).  Sugar  Belt 
Ry. 

Steamboats. — To  Kissimmee  River  landings. 

Methodist  and  Presbyterian  churches. 

The  Kissimmee  Bank. — Good  general  stores. 

Livery. — Saddle  horses,  $2.50  a  day,  smgle  teams,  $3.50  a  day. 

Boats.— Launched,  $10  to  $15  a  day,  sail-boats,  $3  to  S6  a  day. 

Guides. — $1  a  day  or  more,  according  to  services  required. 

Tlie  town  is  practically  at  the  head  of  river  navigation 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  by  way  of  the  Kissimmee  River, 
Lake  Okeechobee,  and  the  Caloosahatchee  Eiver.  (See 
Routes  156  and  IS!  and  maps,  pp.  23  and  77.)  It  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  Lake  Tohoi^ekaliga  ("  the  lake  of  the  cow- 
pens  "),  a  fine  body  of  water,  twelve  miles  long,  and  of  an  ir- 
regular shape,  nearly  six  miles  wide  at  certain  jjoints  and 
with  numerous  islands.  Its  greatest  depth  is  fifteen  feet, 
and  its  normal  height  above  tide-water,  64.59  feet.  Five 
miles  northeast  of  Kissimmee  is  East  Tohoj^ekaliga  Lake ; 
about  five  miles  wide,  irregularly  square  in  shape,  and  with 
its  level  slightly  higher  than  that  of  its  sister  lake,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  canal.  These  two  lakes  are  at 
the  head  of  what  may  be  termed  the  Kissimmee  system, 
including  Lake  Cypress  (62  feet  above  tide-water).  Lake 
Hatchinea  (60.23  feet  above  tide -water),  Lake  Kissimmee 
(58.07  feet  at  tide-water).  All  these  lakes  were  naturally 
connected  by  channels  little  better  than  marshes,  but  these 
have  been  enlarged  by  the  operations  of  the  Okeechobee 
Drainage  Co.,  and  it  is  now  possible  for  steam-launches  and 
sail-boats  to  go  through  to  the  head  of  the  Kissimmee  River, 
a  fine  stream  flowing  southward  fifty  miles,  "  as  the  crow 
flies,"  to  Lake  Okeechobee.  The  actual  distance  following 
the  tortuous  river  is  not  accurately  known.  The  drainage 
works  have  lowered  the  level  of  the  upper  lakes,  rendering 
fit  for  cultivation  wide  tracts  of  rich  land  previously  una- 
vailable. Sugar-cane  has  been  planted  in  large  quantities 
along  the  lake  shores ;  and  early  vegetables,  notably  cauli- 
flowers, have  been  successfully  raised  and  shipped  to   the 


280  KISSIMMEE— LAKELAND. 

Northern  markets  early  in  Jannaiy.  The  other  garden  crops 
— cabbages,  beets,  jjotatoes,  tomatoes,  and  the  like,  are  ready 
for  market  in  February  and  March. 

Kissimmee  is  a  convenient  headquarters  for  sportsmen. 
Reference  to  the  map  of  Osceola  County,  p.  72,  will  show 
that  it  is  a  frontier  town,  with  no  settlements  whatever  to  the 
south  and  southeast.  There  are,  in  fact,  occasional  cabins 
and  camps  throughout  the  region  that  appears  on  the 
maps  uninhabited,  but  in  effect  it  is  a  wilderness,  inter- 
sected with  lakes  and  water-courses  navigable  for  small 
boats,  and  crossed  by  trails  practicable  for  teams. 

Guides,  boats,  horses,  and  camp  equipage  may  be  hired  in 
Kissimmee.  There  is  no  fixed  schedule  of  i^rices,  but  favor- 
able arrangements  can  usually  be  made  through  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  Tropical  Hotel.  The  head- waters  of  the  St. 
John's  River,  running  north,  are  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles 
to  the  eastward.  Lakes  and  branches  are  known  to  the 
guides  which  considerably  ]-educe  the  length  of  the  carry 
between  the  two  streams.  It  is  possible  to  descend  to  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Kissimmee,  and  thence  carry  over  by  way  of 
Lakes  Jackson  and  Marian  to  the  upper  St.  John's,  which 
is  easily  navigable  to  Lake  Munroe.     (See  p.  197.) 


164.  Lakeland,  Polk  County. 

Population,  800.— Lat.  28"  N.— Long.  82"  W. 

Hotel. — Fremont  Hmw-e,  S3  a  day. 

Rah, WATS. — South  Florida  and  Florida  Southern. 

A  railway  junction  of  some  importance.  The  jirincipal 
lines  from  the  North  cross  here,  bound  for  Tampa  and  Punta 
Gorda.  Lakeland  is  pleasantly  situated  amidst  a  cluster  of 
pretty  lakes,  and  with  an  elevation  at  the  railroad  station  of 
214  feet  above  the  sea  (see  map,  p.  77).  Lake  Hancock,  the 
largest  lake  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  is  8  miles  south, 
near  Haskell  Station,  S.  F.  Ry.  Numerous  smaller  ponds  are 
found  in  every  direction,  and  good  shooting  is  to  be  had 
within  easy  driving  distance.  Lakeland  was  settled  in.  Feb- 
ruary, 1884,  under  the  management  of  a  joint-stock  laud 
company. 


iJARTOW.  281 


165.  Bartow,  Polk  County  (O.  H.)- 

Population  (1890^  2,000.— Lat.  2T"  50'.— Long.  81"  53'  W. 

Hotels. — Orange  Grove  Hotel,  Willard  House,  Wright  House,  Carpenter 
House,  $2  to  $3  a  day. 

Railroads.— The  Florida  Southern  Ry.  (Charlotte  Harbor  Division)  to  Pnnta 
Gorda.    The  South  Florida  Rd.  (Bartow  Branch)  to  Bartow,  etc. 

Bartow  was  settled  in  1857,  and  was  at  first  known  as  Fort 
Blount,  from  B.  B.  Blount,  of  Georgia,  who,  with  John  Dav- 
idson, an  Irishman,  were  the  first  comers.  Until  the  close  of 
the  Civil  War,  it  was  little  more  than  a  frontier  settlement, 
but  it  is  in  the  midst  of  a  fine  agricultural  country,  near  the 
southern  limit  of  the  great  "  rolling  pine  "  region,  with  an 
extensive  hammock  on  one  side  and  a  prairie  on  the  other. 
Settlers  soon  began  to  locate  claims  in  the  neighborhood, 
and  when  the  railroad  was  finished  to  Punta  Gorda,  in  1882, 
its  ju'osperity  became  assured.  The  branch  to  Bartow,  etc., 
was  built  in  1885,  and  farther  increased  its  commercial 
facilities.  There  are  Baptist,  Methodist,  and  Presbyterian 
churches  and  a  prosperous  school,  the  Summerlin  Institute, 
which  at  present  has  about  300  pupils,  and  is  considered 
one  of  the  best  in  the  State.  It  was  founded  by  Jacob 
Summerlin,  who  gave  the  funds  required  and  dedicated  the 
institution  to  "the  poor  children  of  Polk  County."  Bartow 
is  near  the  head-waters  of  Peace  Kiver.  To  the  southeast 
is  a  flat  pine  region  with  numerous  lakes  and  savannas, 
and  good  shooting  extending  to  the  edge  of  the  Kissimmeo 
swamps.  To  the  southwest,  some  12  or  15  miles,  are  the 
sources  of  the  Manatee  Biver,  flowing  through  wild  ham- 
mock lands  tenanted  by  all  kinds  of  game.  Bartow  is  a 
good  headquarters  for  sportsmen  wishing  to  explore  the 
regions  indicated. 


282  PLANT   CITY— JACKSONVILLE. 

166.  Plant  City,  Hillsborough  County. 

Population,  300. 

The  town  stands  at  the  junction  of  the  Florida  Central  & 
Peninsula  and  the  South  Florida  railways  (see  map,  p.  3G). 
It  is  mainly  built  upon  an  "  oak  ridge,"  with  an  elevation  of 
128  feet  above  the  sea.  The  underlaying  strata  are  yellow 
and  gray  sandstone.  The  first  permanent  settlement  was  in 
January,  1884,  on  the  completion  of  the  railroad  to  this 
point.  The  Pemberton  Ferry  Branch  leads  northward, 
crossing  the  Orange  Belt  railway  at  Lacoochee,  and  the 
Florida  Southern  at  St.  Catherine.  The  S.  F.  and  F.  C.  & 
P.  railways  run  westward  to  Tampa.  For  stations  and  dis- 
tances, see  p.  48. 

For  Tampa  and  vicinity,  see  Routes  249  to  252. 


170.  Jacksonville  to  Ocala. 

By  J.  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.  to  Palatka,  56  miles  (same  as  Route  40) ;  thence  by 
Florida  Southern  Ry.,  72  miles  (running  time  4  hours).  There  is  a  choice  of 
routes  at  Hawthorne  (Waite's  Crossing),  where  train  may  be  taken  down  the 
east  side  of  Grange  Lake,  crossing  its  outlet,  and  passing  through  the  great 
o  ange-groves  of  Citra  to  Silver  Spring.  The  other  route  is  to  Ilochelle  and 
thence  south  through  a  beautiful  country,  west  of  Orange  Lake,  direct  to  Ocala. 
The  route  via  Rochelle  is  about  10  miles  longer  than  the  other.  For  stations 
and  distances  see  maps,  pages  2  and  62,  and  tables  in  context,  pp.  4,  5,  63,  64. 

The  trip  by  rail  from  Palatka  westward,  by  the  Florida 
Southern  Railroad,  is  pleasantly  varied.  After  leaving  the 
high  bluffs  in  the  vicinity  of  Palatka,  the  line  runs 
nearly  due  west  through  a  level  pine-covered  country,  in- 
clining slightly  to  the  south  and  west,  the  hills  reappear  in 
the  vicinity  of  Mannville.  Lakes  are  seen  in  the  valleys,  and 
oaks,  magnolias,  bay,  and  gum  trees  intermingle  with  the 
pines.  In  the  clearings  orange-groves  have  taken  the  place 
of  the  native  forest,  especially  at  Interlacheu  (Route  171), 
where  they  are  almost  continuous.  Near  McMeekin  the  hills 
rise  to  a  noticeable  height,  interspersed  with  lakes  and  wet 
prairies.  From  the  train  many  attractive  homes  may  be  seen 
on  the  hillsides,  with  every  evidence  of  prosperous  agricul- 


JACKSONVILLE— INTERLACHEN.        283 

tural  industry.  At  intervals  the  line  crosses  five  streams, 
some  of  them  in  deep  ravines.  Two  miles  beyond  Mc- 
Meekiu  is  the  line  between  Alaclma  and  Putnam  Counties. 
At  Hawthorne  (otherwise  Waite's)  is  the  crossing  of  the 
F.  C.  &  P.,  running  north  to  Oravge  Heights  and  Waldo, 
south  to  Silver  Spring,  Ocala,  etc.  At  Rochelle  the  line  con- 
tinues westward  to  Gainesville  (Route  173).  The  Ocala  train 
turns  sharply  to  the  southward.  Near  liochelle,  notice  fine 
symmetrical  live  oaks  in  the  open  country.  The  bays  of 
Orange  Lake  are  in  sight  to  the  eastward  as  the  train  nears 
Micanopy  (Micanopy,  6  miles  west,  Route  175).  Two  miles 
south  of  the  junction  is  the  Marion  County  line.  The  train 
skirts  wide  reaches  of  saw-grass  bordering  Orange  Lake,  runs 
for  miles  through  heavy  timber,  cabbage-palms,  and  grass- 
covered  hills.  The  absence  of  the  saw -palmetto  in  this 
region  renders  the  open  woods  very  attractive  for  walks  and 
rides.  It  was  a  favorite  hunting-ground  of  the  native  tribes, 
and  they  made  a  stubborn  fight  before  they  could  be  driven 
out.         * 

Should  the  route  east  of  Orange  Lake  be  preferred,  change 
cars  at  Hawthorne.  The  line  crosses  the  lower  part  of  the 
lake,  which  has  considerable  area,  but  little  depth.  Stop  if 
possible  at  Citra  (Route  172),  for  the  orange-groves  and 
natural  wells,  and  at  Silver  Spring  (Route  182). 


171.    Interlaclieii,  Putnam  County. 

Hotels. — Hotel  Lagonda,  $3  a  dav. — Lakeview  Hotel,  12.50  a  day. 
Rahroad.— The  F.  C.  &  P.  R.R. ' 

Several  beautiful  lakes  are  visible  from  the  railroad  in 
passing  through  this  region.  The  two  that  give  Interlachen 
its  name  are  Lagonda  and  Chipco.  The  surrounding  country 
is  fine  rolling  woodland,  \yme  and  hardwood  intermingled, 
and  the  town  itself  is  very  attractive  in  appearance.  It  has 
several  good  general  stores,  a  well-conducted  public  school, 
and  a  pretty  Congregational  church.  The  great  industiy  is 
orange  growing,  as  is  evident  at  a  glance  over  the  sviiTOund- 
ing  hills.      A  post-road    leads  northward  to  Putnam  Hall 


284  INTKRLAC'HKN— CITRA. 

(8  miles),  Etoniah  (l-t  miles),  and  McRae  (19  miles),  lying 
among  a  group  of  lakes  near  the  border  between  Clay  and 
Putnam  Counties. 

172.     Citra,  Marion  County. 

Hotel,  $1.50  a  day. 
Railroad.— The  F.  C.  &  P.  R.R. 

The  orange-groves  of  Citra  are  well  worth  a  visit,  for  they 
are  among  the  largest  and  finest  in  the  State.  So  extensive 
are  they  that  one  may  as  easily  be  lost  among  the  irregular 
avenues  as  in  the  neighboring  pine-forests.  Citra  is  a  station 
on  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Railroad,  at  its  junction  with  a  branch  to 
Oak  Lawn,  a  station  on  the  Florida  Southern  Railway,  six 
miles  west.  Approaching  from  Hawthorne  on  the  north,  the 
line  crosses  the  shallows  of  Orange  Lake  after  leaving  Island 
Grove  station,  and  jiasses  through  the  Bishop  and  Harris 
orange-groves  before  reaching  the  station  at  Citra.  The 
branch  railway  to  Oak  Lawn,  too,  skirts  the  plantations  for 
several  miles.  The  groves  lie  along  the  southern  shore  of 
Orange  Lake,  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  station. 
Large  packing-houses  are  beside  the  railway  track,  with  all 
facilities  for  ready  shipment.  Here  may  be  seen  all  the  most 
approved  methods  of  sorting  and  packing.  Tramways  lead 
through  the  groves  in  all  directions — almost  a  necessity,  since 
the  trees  are  often  so  near  together  that  passage  for  an  or- 
dinary wagon  is  impossible.  These  groves  are,  for  the  most 
part,  budded  on  wild  stock,  hence  there  is  no  regularity  in 
their  arrangement.  All  through  the  tract  stand  superb  for- 
est trees,  some  of  them  dead  or  dying,  and  no  longer  objects 
of  beauty ;  but  they  are  allowed  to  stand  as  a  protection 
against  frosts  and  high  winds.  One  may  walk  or  ride  for 
miles  without  once  leaving  the  shade  of  orange-trees  in  full 
bearing.  From  Citra  station  alone  there  were  shipped,  dur- 
ing the  season  of  1889-90,  nearly  250,000  boxes  of  oranges. 

Near  Citra  are  several  of  the  curious  natural  wells  j^eculiar 
to  this  region.  They  are  within  easy  walking  distance,  and 
a  guide  can  usually  be  found  who,  for  a  trifling  fee,  or,  if  a 
white  man,  for  nothing  at  all,  will  show  the  way. 


GAINESVILLE.  285 


173.  GaineSYille,  Alachua  Couuty  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1890.  2,766.— Lat.  29°  40'  N.,  LoiiS-  82°  25'  W. 

Hotels.— (Rates  by  the  day.)  Arlington  Hotel,  $2.50  to  S3,  Brown  House,  $2 
to  f4  ;  St.  Nicholas,  $1  to  $3  ;  Rockmont  Home,  S2..50  to  .f3. 

Kailroads.— The  Gainesville  Branch  of  tlie  Florida  Southern  Ey.  (J.,  T.  k 
K.  W.  System)  has  its  terminus  here,  with  through  tains  to  Jacksonville  and 
the  North;  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula,  S.VV.  to  Cedar  Key,  N.E.  to 
Fernandina.  and  the  Savannah,  Florida,  &  Western  Railroad,  N.W.  to  Way- 
cross,  etc.  These  railways  have  separate  stations,  those  of  the  F.  S.  Ry.  and 
the  S.,  F.  &  W.  being  adjacent. 

Gainesville  was  named  in  honor  of  General  Gaines,  who, 
as  much  perhaps  as  any  man,  was  instrumental  in  bringing  to 
a  successful  termination  the  long  war  with  the  Seminoles.  It 
occui^ies  a  "  black-jack  ridge,"  the  soil  being  sandy,  under- 
laid with  clay  at  a  depth  of  2  to  20  feet.  The  locality  was 
settled  about  1825  by  one  "Bod  "  Higgenbottom,  but  until 
after  the  Indian  War  permanent  inhabitants  were  few.  The 
surrounding  country  is  very  rich,  and  well  adapted  to  graz- 
ing and  agricultural  purposes.  The  East  Florida  Seminary 
is  a  military  school  of  excellent  reputation.  The  daily 
drills  of  the  smart  gray-clad  cadets  are  well  worth  seeing, 
and  a  visit  to  the  seminary  buildings  and  the  adjoining  bar- 
racks may  give  the  stranger  some  new  ideas  regarding  the 
educational  institutions  of  Florida. 

During  the  Civil  War  Gainesville  had  but  one  visit  from 
United  States  troopers.  On  February  1-4,  1864,  Captain 
George  E.  Marshall,  of  the  Fortieth  Massachusetts  Infantry 
(mounted),  raided  Gainesville  under  orders  from  General 
Truman  Seymour,  the  same  who  was  so  disastrously  beaten 
at  Olustee  one  week  later.  Caiotaiu  Marshall's  raid  was  a 
very  bold  one,  leading  him  far  from  any  possible  support. 
He  held  the  place  for  two  days  against  several  attacks, 
and  after  having  distributed  among  the  people  of  the  town 
such  Confederate  jDrovisions  as  he  could  find,  he  made  good 
his  escape,  rejoining  Seymour,  who  was  encamped  at  Bald- 
win. 

Gainesville  is  the  best  headquarters  for  visitors  to  the 
many  natural  curiosities  of  Alachua  County.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  are  numerous  lakes,  the  largest  of  which, 
Alachua,  has  a  somewhat  remarkable  history.     It  occuijies 


2S6  GAINESVILLE. 

what  was  formerly  Payne's  Prairie,  so  named  from  the  chief 
of  the  local  Indian  tribe.  Through  it  flowed  the  surplus 
waters  of  Newnan's  Lake  to  a  point  near  the  middle  of  the 
prairie,  where  the  whole  stream  went  down  into  an  unfath- 
omed  abyss,  known  to  the  Indians  as  Alachua,  variously 
translated  as  "  the  bottomless  pit,"  or  "  the  place  where  the 
waters  go  down."  The  whites,  with  excellent  taste,  took 
Alachua  for  the  county  name,  but  called  the  chasm  the  "  Big 
Sink."  The  place  became  a  favorite  picnic  resort,  and  par- 
ties of  visitors  amused  themselves  by  throwing  in  whatever 
they  could  lay  hands  upon,  even  felling  large  trees  to  see 
them  disappear. 

The  natural  result  followed  in  due  course,  and  in  1875 
Alachua  refused  to  swallow  any  more.  Payne's  Prairie, 
thousands  of  acres  of  rich  grazing  laud,  became  a  lake, 
and  so  it  remains  to  this  day.  It  may  be  that  eventually 
Nature  will  reassert  herself,  and  gradually  cut  a  new  sub- 
terranean passage  for  the  waters,  which  now  find  their  way 
into  Orange  Lake.  Tuscawilla  Lake,  near  the  town  of  Mi- 
cano-pj,  on  the  contrary,  was  made  permanent  by  the  anxiety 
of  the  owner  to  prevent  the  sink,  a  smaller  one  than  that  of 
Alachua,  from  becoming  choked.  He  attempted  to  curb  it 
with  logs,  but  the  bulkhead  gave  way  and  the  passage  be- 
came permanently  clogged. 

The  Devil's  Mill  Hopper,  another  curiosity  of  similar  char- 
acter, is  five  miles  north  of  Gainesville,  a  bowl-shaped  depres- 
sion about  three  acres  in  extent,  and  150  feet  deep.  The 
sides  of  the  bowl  are  covered  with  luxuriant  vegetation,  and 
fifteen  springs  break  from  the  rock,  cascading  down  into 
a  pool  at  the  bottom  of  the  ho^jper,  whose  level  has  not 
changed  materially  since  the  county  was  settled.  Natural 
wells  are  found  all  over  the  coimtry,  especially  in  its  west- 
ern section.  They  are  sometimes  full  of  water,  but  often  dry 
and  open  to  exploration.  In  diameter  they  measure  two  or 
three  feet,  and  are  often  thirty  or  forty  feet  deep,  with  sides 
as  smooth  and  regular  as  if  cut  by  the  hand  of  man. 

King  Payne,  a  Seminole  chief,  conspicuous  in  the  vicinity 
of  Gainesville  in  the  first  decade  of  the  present  century,  col- 
lected a  band  of  Indians  and  runaway  negro  slaves,  and  on 


GAINESVILLE.  287 

September  11,  1835,  attacked  a  wagon  train  escorted  by  a 
party  of  twenty  Americans  under  Captain  Williams.  The  es- 
cort made  brave  fight  till  their  ammunition  was  exhausted 
when  the  suiA'ivors  retreated  in  good  ordei*.  General  Newnan, 
for  whom  Newnan's  Lake  and  Newnansville  are  named,  was 
soon  on  the  march  to  avenge  this  attack,  and  met  the  enemy 
in  somewhat  superior  force  on  September  26th.  Kiug 
Payne  was  killed  early  in  the  fight,  and  the  Indians  were  re- 
pulsed, but  when  they  learned  of  their  leader's  fall  they  re- 
turned to  the  attack  again  and  again,  in  the  face  of  the 
deadly  Georgian  rifles,  and  although  thrice  repulsed  suc- 
ceeded at  last  in  forcing  the  Americans  back,  and  recaptur- 
ing their  chief's  body.  The  Americans  were  so  badly  cut 
uj)  that,  after  holding  the  position  until  October  4th,  they 
withdrew,  and  for  the  time  gave  up  the  attempt  to  occupy 
the  country. 

The  Land  Office. 

At  Gainesville  is  the  United  States  Land  OflBce  for  the 
State  of  Florida,  and  as  the  Government  system  of  surveys 
is  often  perplexing  to  strangers,  a  brief  explanation  is  here 
given : 

The  present  system  of  Government  surveys  extends  through- 
out all  the  States  and  Territories,  except  the  original  thir- 
teen States  and  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Maine,  West  Virginia, 
and  Texas.  It  was  inaugurated  by  a  committee,  of  which 
Thomas  Jefferson,  of  Virginia,  was  chairman,  apiDointed  by 
the  Continental  Congress.  On  May  7,  1784,  this  committee 
reported  an  ordinance  which,  after  much  alteration  and 
amendment,  was  finally  adopted  May  20,  1785.  Many  sup- 
plementary acts  have  since  been  passed,  until  the  system  is 
now  a  model  of  accuracy,  simplicity,  and  convenience.  All 
the  maps  in  this  Handbook  are  divided  by  a  series  of  parallel 
lines,  running  east  and  west,  and  others  in  like  manner  north 
and  south,  dividing  the  map  into  little  squares.  Each  of 
these  sqixares  is  a  to'xnship  of  the  public  survey,  and  a  knowl- 
edge of  their  arrangement,  the  method  by  which  they  are 
numbered  and  subdivided,  is  a  matter  of  interest  and  impor- 
tance. 


288  GAINESVILLE. 

As  it  is  not  practicable  to  begin  a  rectangular  system  of 
survey  ujDon  the  irregular  border  of  a  State,  a  convenient 
point  is  chosen  within  its  borders.  A  base  line  is  established, 
running  east  and  west,  also  a  meridian  line,  ruiining  north 
and  south,  crossing  the  base  line  at  right  angles.  Townships 
are  surveyed  from  tliese  lines. 

Shortly  after  the  acquisition  of  Florida  by  the  United 
States  (1821),  the  intersection  of  the  base  and  meridian  lines 
of  the  survey  was  fixed  at  Tallahassee,  that  being  the  centre 
of  political  interest  and  influence,  though  obviously  inconve- 
nient for  geograjihical  reasons,  since  a  meridian  line  at  that 
point  could  only  be  about  thirty  miles  long  within  the  State. 
It  did  very  well,  however,  for  a  base  line,  and  the  long  offi- 
cial meridians  were  laid  oflf  on  the  peninsula.  On  the  fold- 
ing map  it  will  be  seen  that  the  squares  are  marked  with 
Roman  numerals  east  and  west  from  Tallahassee,  while  the 
ranges  are  marked  with  Arabic  numerals  north  and  south 
from  the  base  line,  on  meridians  of  about  82'  32',  81°  10', 
80°  15',  etc.  On  the  County  maps  Arabic  numerals  are  used 
throughout  as  being,  upon  the  whole,  more  convenient. 

I'owns/iips  were  first  surveyed,  and  later,  were  subdivided 
into  sections. 

A  township  is  a  tract  of  land  six  miles  square,  containing 
thirty-six  square  miles,  or  23,01:0  acres. 

A  row,  or  tier,  of  townships,  running  north  and  south,  is 
called  a  range  of  townships. 

A  section  is  a  tract  of  land  one  mile  square,  forming  one- 
thirty-sixth  of  a  township,  and  containing  640  acres. 

The  map  of  Leon  County,  page  52,  shows  the  starting- 
point  of  the  Government  survey,  the  base  line,  the  meridian 
line,  and  the  county  townships.  It  may  be  compared  with 
a  complete  map  of  the  State.  The  village  of  "  Ferrells"  is 
situated,  you  will  find,  in  township  2,  south  of  the  base  line, 
range  1,  east  of  the  meridian.  Centreville  is  iu  township  2, 
north  ;  range  2,  east.  The  entire  peninsula,  however,  and  a 
considerable  part  of  Northern  Florida,  is  south  of  the  base 
line  and  east  of  the  meridian.  Turning  to  the  various  coun- 
ty maps,  it  will  be  found  that  Jacksonville  is  in  township  2, 
south  ;  range   26,    east ;    Sanford   in   township    19,  south  ; 


GAINESVILLE. 


2S0 


range  30,  east ;  EauGallie  in  townsliip  27,  south  ;  range  37, 
east ;  Kissimmee  City  in  townsliip  25,  south  ;  range  29, 
east,  etc. 

In  like  manner,  west  of  the  meriflian  of  Tallahassee,  we 
find  Quincy  in  township  2,  north  ;  range  3,  west ;  and  Pen- 
sacola  in  township  1,  south ;  range  30,  west. 

Subdivisions. — Each  township  is  subdivided  into  36  sec- 
tions,each  section  being  one  mile  square,  and  containing  G-iO 
acres.  These  sections  are  arranged  as  shown  herewith  in  the 
diagram  of  a  subdivided  township. 

Each  section  is,  in  turn,  &x\hi\'\\i(\.eCi\nio  quarter -sections  ol 
160  acres,  and  each  quarter-section  into  quarter-quarter-sec- 
tions, of  40  acres  each.  But  wherever  the  lines  of  a  section 
come  out  irregularly  upon  the  margin  of  a  large  lake,  or 
navigable  river,  or  the  sea-shore,  the  broken  section  is  cut 
up  into  fractional  lots. 

Now,  should  the  reader  see  a  description  like  this,  for  in- 
stance :  Southwest  quarter  of  the  northeast  quarter  of  section 
7,  in  township  4,  soiith,  range  2G,  east,  he  will  know  that  it 
is  a  forty-acre  tract,  and  he  will  discover,  with  the  aid  of  a 
map,  that  it  lies  ]ust  west  of  Orange  Park,  in  Clay  County, 
on  the  line  of  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa  &  Key  West  Kailway. 

A  land  agent  would  write  the  same  description  in  brief, 
like  this  :  S.  W.  i,  of  N.  E.  i,  7-— t— 26,  S.  &  E. 


6 

5 

4 

3 

2 

1 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

18 

17 
20 

16 

15 

14 

13 

19 

21 

22 

23 

24 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26 

25 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

A  SUBDIVIDED   TOWNSHIP. 


19 


Owing  to  the  impossibil- 
ity of  absolute  accuracy  in 
running  survey  lines  by  the 
simple  process  of  chaining 
across  uneven  ground,  the 
divisions  do  not  always  con- 
tain the  exact  number  of 
acres  contemplated  by  the 
system  ;  a  quartei'-quarter- 
section,  for  instance,  some- 
times contains  a  fraction 
more  or  less  than  forty  acres, 
and  so  on,  so  that  one  must 
always   inform    himself,    if 


290  GAINESVILLE— JACKSONVILLK 

he  wishes  to  be  accurate  in  the  matter  of  a  particular  tract. 
This  information  may  always  be  readily  obtained  by  send- 
ing a  letter  of  inquiry,  containing  a  description  of  the  tract, 
to  the  United  States  Surveyor-General,  at  Tallahassee,  or  the 
United  States  Register  of  Lands  at  Gainesville. 


171.  Jacksonville  to  Leesburg. 

By  J.  T.  &  K.  W.  Ry.  to  Palatka  (see  Route  40) ;  Palatka  to  Ocala  (gee  Route 
170;;  Ocala  to  Leesbiirg  by  Florida  Southern  Railway,  34  miles  (whole  distance, 
162  miles,  running  time,  7  hours);  or  by  Fiorida  Central  &  Peninsula  (Southern 
Division),  38  miles  (whole  distance  from  Jacksonville,  168  miles  ;  running  time, 
6  hours  39  minutes). 

The  line  of  the  Florida  Southern  follov»s  a  southeasterly 
direction  from  Ocala,  passing  near  the  site  of  old  Fort  King, 
established  in  March,  1827,  at  the  junction  of  six  roads.  It 
was  attacked  by  the  Seminoles  in  force  April  27,  1840.  The 
post  was  abandoned  March  25,  1843.  It  was  to  this  point 
that  Major  Dade's  command  was  marching  when  massacred 
by  the  Indians  in  1835.  (See  -p.  320.)  After  passing  Lake 
Weir  and  its  adjacent  stations  (Route  185),  the  line  runs  al- 
most due  south,  crossing  into  Lake  County  two  miles  south 
of  Foster  Park.  Chetwynd  and  Fiuitland  Park  will  be  no- 
ticed as  among  the  most  prosperous  of  the  Engli.sh  colonies 
in  Florida  (see  Route  190). 

The  F.  C.  &  P.  follows  a  more  southerly  route,  passing  into 
Sumter  County  (p.  85)  near  Dallas,  and  into  Lake  County 
about  one  mile  east  of  Bamboo.  At  Wildwood  the  Tampa 
Division  continues  southward  (see  Route  140).  This  station 
was  named  in  1885  by  a  pioneer  telegraph  operator,  who, 
finding  himself  at  the  end  of  his  wire,  reported  to  headquar- 
ters, dating  the  despatch  "Wildwood,"  for  at  that  time  there 
was  nothing  else  to  be  seen.  From  this  point  the  line  nins 
a  little  south  of  east,  through  a  country  lising  from  level  pine 
into  rolling  hills  and  hammocks,  till  the  lakes  near*  Leesburg 
are  in  sight. 


MICANOPY.  2D1 

175.  Micanopy,  Marion  County. 

Hotel. — Tuscawilla,  $2  a  day. 

Presbjterian,  Methodist,  and  Baptist  Chiirclics.— Micanopy  High  School. 
Livery.-  Saddle  horses,  50  cents  an  hour  ;  $1.50  a  day.— Carriages,  etc.,  $1 
to  $2  an  hour  ;  $5  to  $10  a  day. 
Boats  can  be  hired  on  the  adjacent  lakes. 

Micanopy  is  named  after  a  powerful  Indian  chief  of  the 
early  days,  whose  village  was  on  the  borders  of  tlie  lake, 
within  the  present  limits  of  the  town.  They  made  gallant 
fight  for  their  homes.  A  military  post  was  established  here 
April  30,  1837,  and  maintained  till  February  16,  18i3. 
There  were  sharp  fights  with  Indians  on  December  20,  1835, 
and  on  June  9,  1836,  prior  to  the  erection  of  the  fort,  and  a 
formidable  attack  was  made  December  28,  1840.  Besides 
these  engagements  desultory  bush  fighting  continued  dur- 
ing the  whole  period.  The  first  settler  was  Dr.  Payne,  a 
Virginian,  who  came  here  in  1835,  and  had  few  neighbors, 
save  the  post  garrison,  until  after  the  subjugation  of  the  In- 
dians. Micanopy  (accent  on  the  penult)  is  now  a  prosper- 
ous town,  surrounded  by  rich  hammock  lands  and  productive 
plantations.  It  is  the  terminus  of  a  spur  of  the  Florida 
Southern  Railway,  four  miles  from  Micanopy  Junction. 
Good  water-fowl  shooting  and  fishing  is  to  be  found  in 
the  several  large  lakes  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  all 
kinds  of  Florida  game  abound  within  a  few  miles  to  the 
south  and  west.  There  are  in  this  neighborhood  vast  tracts 
of  woodland  through  which  one  may  ride,  drive,  or  walk  all 
day  without  a  beaten  trail  and  rarely  seeing  a  human  habita- 
tion. This  region  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Indian  war 
which  involved  the  whole  State.  A  brief  historical  sketch 
is  appended. 

The  Seminole  or  Florida  Wars. 

Shortly  after  the  second  war  between  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain  (1812-11),  Florida  being  at  the  time  under 
Spanish  dominion,  the  mixed  tribes  of  Seminoles,  Creeks, 
and  runaway  negroes  began  to  commit  depredations  on  the 
frontiers  of  Alabama  and  Georgia.  No  redress  could  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Spanish  authorities,   and  British  residents 


292  MICANOPY. 

were  not  averse  to  instigating  hostilities.  At  length,  in  the 
spring  of  1818,  Generals  Jackson  and  Gaines  were  ordered 
to  carry  the  war  into  Florida,  which  they  did  so  effecttially 
that  it  was  speedily  ended.  Incidentally  the  Americans 
were  obliged  to  capture  Pensacola  and  St.  Marks,  both  occu- 
pied by  Spanish  garrisons,  which  made  only  a  show  of  resist- 
ance. Two  Englishmen,  Arbuthnot  and  Ambrister,  were 
hanged,  having  been  tried  by  court-martial  and  found  guilty 
of  stirring  up  the  Indians  to  war.  The  territory  was  oc- 
cupied by  United  States  troops  Tintil  Spain  evinced  the 
intention  and  ability  to  restrain  the  Indians,  when  our  troops 
were  withdrawn.  The  part  borne  by  the  two  Englishmen 
appears  to  have  been  pretty  clearly  demonstrated,  for  Great 
Britain  never  called  the  United  States  to  account  for  the 
matter.     This  ended  the  First  Seminole  War. 

The  second  war  was  the  natural  consequence  of  annexa- 
tion to  the  United  States,  and  the  rush  of  settlers  southward. 
The  later  periods  of  Spanish  rule  were  characterized  by  a 
more  jiacific  policy  toward  the  Indians  than  was  the  case  at 
first.  So,  too,  with  the  period  of  English  dominion.  The 
Indians  were  practically  undisturbed  so  long  as  they  behaved 
themselves,  which,  it  may  be  added,  they  generally  did,  even 
as  the  scant  remnant  of  the  tribe  that  still  haunts  the  Ever- 
glades is  behaving  itself  to  this  day,  so  long  as  it  is  left 
alone. 

With  the  opening  of  the  country  to  American  settlement 
there  came  an  abrupt  change.  The  aggressive,  lawless  ele- 
ments of  the  then  frontier  States  of  Georgia,  Alabama,  and 
Mississippi  could  now  do  openly  what  they  had  been  doing 
for  a  generation  in  an  underhand  way — namely  go  in  and 
possess  the  land.  Nominally  certain  boundaries  were  to  be 
respected  but  in  practice  these  were  ignored,  and  in  1822 
Colonel  Gad  Humphreys  was  appointed  agent  to  negotiate  a 
treaty.  At  this  time  the  Seminoles  numbered  about  4,000 
souls  all  told,  including  several  hundred  negro  slaves.  They 
had  their  plantations  and  villages,  and  though  annoyed  by 
the  encroachments  of  the  Whites  they  looked  for  redress  and 
protection  to  their  "  Great  Father  "  at  Washington. 

After  some  preliminary  negotiation,  a  meeting  of  chiefs 


MICANOPY.  29;i 

and.  commissioners  was  avvangod  at  Fort  Moultrie,  five  miles 
south  of  St.  Augustine,  and  a  treaty  was  signed  substantially 
guaranteeing  certain  districts  to  the  Indians.  This  was  in 
September,  1823,  shortly  after  the  acquisition  of  Florida. 
The  twelve  years  that  followed  gradually  led  up  to  open 
liostilities  through  the  usual  encroachments  on  the  part  of 
the  whites,  and  resistance  and  sometimes  retaliation  on  the 
part  of  the  Indians.  In  May,  1832,  a  treaty  was  executed  at 
Payne's  Landing  on  the  Ocklawaha,  whereby  a  considerable 
body  of  the  Seminoles  agreed  to  remove  west  of  the  ]\Iissis- 
sippi  if  on  inspection  the  country  proved  desirable.  Before 
this  plan  could  be  carried  out,  however,  the  opposing  faction 
under  Osceola  and  Micanopy  began  open  resistance  b}'  mur- 
dering the  leader  of  the  friendly  chiefs  and  the  unsuspecting 
officers  at  the  agency,  and  almost  simultaneously  waylaid 
and  massacred  Major  Dade's  command.  Then  followed 
seven  years  Qf  fighting  that  seemed  at  times  almost  hope- 
less. No  one  who  is  unfamiliar  with  the  peculiar  topograph- 
ical conditions  of  Florida  can  appreciate  the  difficulty  of 
outmancEuvring  such  a  wily  foe  as  the  Seminole.  Gradu- 
ally, however,  they  were  pushed  southward,  still  fighting 
desperately.  The  last  general  engagement  was  fought  on 
Christmas-day,  1837,  on  the  northern  shore  of  Okeechobee 
Lake,  a  hand-to-hand  struggle  in  the  depths  of  a  horrible 
swamp.  The  Indians  were  beaten  and  never  afterward  faced 
the  Americans  in  force.  The  war  was  continued,  however, 
by  small  parties,  until  1842,  when,  their  principal  chiefs 
having  been  captured  or  killed,  and  their  numbers  largely 
reduced  by  surrender  and  removal,  peace  was  finally  se- 
cured. A  few  hundred  determined  to  make  the  Everglades 
their  home  rather  than  leave  their  native  land  altogether, 
and  as  they  could  not  be  caught  they  were  finally  allowed  to 
remain  unmolested.  Some  of  the  more  important  incidents 
of  this  war  are  described  in  connection  with  the  localities 
where  they  occurred.  It  cost  the  United  States  about  1,500 
lives  and  §20,000,000  in  money  to  subjugate  this  gallant  and 
in  the  beginning  peaceably  disposed  race. 


294  o(;ala. 

180.  Ocala,  Marion  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1890,  n,400.— Lat.  29"  10'  N.— Long.  82"  05'  W. 

Hotel. — The  O'-nln.  |4  a  day. 

Railroads. — The  Florida  Sunthorn  Railway  (-1.,  T.  4  K.  W.  Sy?tem\  north 
to  Jaeksonvillp ;  soutli  to  Lcfstui'-rr,  etc.  Floridu  f'cntral  &  Peninsula  Rail- 
road, north  to  Fcrnandiiw  ;  soiilh  l<i  lirdoksvil'.c,  I);idc  Cty,  etc.  Silver  Spring, 
Ocala  .t  Gulf  Kailway.  east  to  Silver  Sprint;  and  thfOrlilawaha  ;  west  to  Uomo- 
eassa  (all  separate  stations,  but  withlu  teu  miuutes  dr.ve,  fare  2jc.). 

Few  inland  cities  in  Florida  are  more  favorably  situated 
than  Ocala  for  a  iDrosperoiis  commercial  future.  In  the 
midst  of  an  exceptionally  rich  agricultural  region,  and  at  the 
junction  of  important  railroads,  it  would  seem  that  her  pres- 
ent prosperity  may  fairly  be  expected  to  increase.  Kecent 
discoveries  of  wonderfully  rich  phosphate  beds  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  have  made  her  a  sort  of  exchange  for  trans- 
actions connected  with  the  phosphate  interest.  The  name 
Ocala  means,  in  the  Seminole  tongue,  green  or  fertile  land. 
After  crossing  the  Oklawaha  in  his  march  northward,  in 
1539-40,  De  Soto  came  upon  a  large  Indian  village,  contain- 
ing, according  to  the  Spanish  account,  some  six  hundred 
dwellings.  This  was  Ocali,  or  Ocala,  and  De  Soto,  after  his 
usual  custom,  first  made  friends  with  and  afterward  nearly 
exterminated  the  peaceably  disjDosed  natives.  It  is  satisfac- 
tory to  know  that  it  cost  him  a  sharp  fight.  The  precise  lo- 
cation of  the  village  is  believed  to  have  been  a  short  distance 
to  the  eastward  of  the  present  city,  perhaps  near  the  site  of 
old  Fort  King,  a  military  post  established  in  1827  and  main- 
tained until  1843.  The  fort  was  the  nucleus  of  the  early  set- 
tlement. It  was  the  scene  of  the  first  Seminole  attack  upon 
a  United  States  post.  The  Indians  had  been  quarrelling 
among  themselves,  and  had  committed  some  outrages  upon 
white  settlers,  but  it  was  not  known  that  they  were  on  the 
warpath.  On  December  28,  183-5,  they  suddenly  aj^peared 
at  Fort  King,  waylaying  and  killing  General  Thompson,  the 
Indian  commissioner,  and  several  others  who  were  outside 
the  fort. 

Modern  Ocala  owes  its  existence  to  the  convergence,  since 
1880,  of  the  railroads,  and  to  an  incorporated  association, 
the  Ocala  Company,  which  has  built  the  large  hotel  and  de- 
veloped the  resources  of  the  place.     In  November,  1883,  the 


OCALA.  295 

to-wu  was  almost  wliolh'  burned,  l)ut  has  been  rebuilt  on  a 
more  permanent  plan.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
the  public  square  are  handsome  buildings,  containing  banks 
and  shops  of  all  kinds.  In  1888-89  the  opening  of  the  Semi- 
tropical  Exhibition,  in  a  building  erected  for  the  purpose, 
attracted  to  Ocala  contributions  from  all  over  the  State,  but 
more  especially  from  Marion  and  the  adjacent  counties.  The 
resiilt  was  an  exhibition  of  products  that  fairly  surpassed  the 
hojDes  of  its  projectors.  Citrus  fruits  of  all  kinds  were  shown 
that  had  been  grown  side  by  side  with  excellent  cereals,  and 
the  array  of  native  grasses  suitable  for  fodder,  of  native 
woods  of  all  kinds,  and  of  textile  fabrics  made  from  palmetto 
fibre  and  pine  needles,  was  most  interesting  and  suggestive. 
It  is  understood  that  hereafter  the  exhibition  will  open  every 
other  year,  alternately  with  the  Subtropical  Exhibition  at 
Jacksonville. 

Within  easy  reach  of  Ocala  are  numerous  points  of  interest, 
accessible  in  some  cases  by  I'ail  and  in  others  by  carriage  or 
in  the  saddle.     Among  these  are  : 

Silver  Spring  (see  Route  182),  the  most  famous  of  all  in 
Florida.  It  is  within  easy  driving  or  walking  distance  (5.} 
miles),  the  road  winding  mainly  through  open  woods.  By 
keeping  nearly  due  east  one  cannot  go  far  astray,  for  the 
Ocklawaha  cypress  swamp  presents  an  impassable  barrier 
about  64  miles  from  Ocala,  and  the  railroad  is  a  safe  land- 
mark to  the  northward.  Excursion  tickets  at  low  rates  are 
sold,  including  a  fascinating  trip  by  steamboat  down  Silver 
Spring  Eun  to  the  Ocklawaha  and  return. 

Blue  Spring  (see  Route  183).  Twenty  miles  west  (1  hour), 
by  S.  S.,  O.  &  G.  Ry.  Descend  Blue  S^jring  Run  (5  miles) 
to  Dunnellou  and  return  by  rail.  The  morning  train  west 
reaches  Blue  Spring  about  8.30  a.m.,  giving  ample  time  for 
a  leisurely  voyage  down  the  run,  with  time  to  visit  the  phos- 
phate works,  and  return  to  Ocala  by  afternoon  train  (con- 
sult local  time-tables).  There  is  a  good  hotel  at  the 
Sirring. 

The  Ockhtwalia  (see  Route  181)  may  be  ascended  to  Lees- 
burg  or  descended  to  Palatka  by  taking  boat  at  Silver 
Spring. 


290  OCALA— THE   OCKLAWAHA. 

Lake  Weir  (seo  Ilonto  157).  By  F.  S.  Railway,  32  miles 
(1  hour  45  m.).  Boats  are  lor  Lire  on  the  lake,  which  is 
nearly  circular  in  shape  and  three  miles  across.  (Hotel,  77<e 
CJiautauqua  House.) 

Drives,  etc. — In  almost  any  direction  there  are  charming 
drives  through  open  hammock  or  rolling  pine  woodland. 
With  a  suitable  vehicle,  or  on  horseback,  one  may  often 
ignore  the  roads  altogether.  For  explorations  of  this  kind 
a  pocket  compass  is  indispensable,  as  it  is  impossible  for  a 
stranger  to  keep  his  bearings.  Good  .shooting  may  be 
reached  -within  an  hour  of  the  hotel.  There  is  no  good  fish- 
ing within  easy  reach,  Lake  Weir  being  the  nearest  of  large 
size.  In  Blue  Sj^ring  and  Silver  Sjiring  the  water  is  so  clear 
that  fish  can  be  seen  more  easily  than  they  can  be  taken. 
There  are  numerous  small  ponds  scattered  about  the  vicinity, 
in  most  of  which  there  are  bream,  jDerch,  etc. 

A  good  ma])  of  Marion  County,  on  a  scale  of  one-half  inch 
to  the  mile,  was  jiublished  by  the  county  commissioners  in 
1888.  It  will  be  found  useful  to  all  who  wish  to  dispense 
with  guides. 


181.    The  Ocklawaha. 

By  steamboat. — Palatka  to  Silver  Spring,  135  miles  (20  hours). 

The  name  is  Seminole,  meaning,  freely  translated,  "  dark, 
crooked  water."  The  stream  is  navigable  from  its  junction 
with  the  St.  John's,  twenty -five  miles  above  Palatka,  to  its 
soiirce  in  Lake  Griffin,  about  fifty  miles  as  the  crow  flies, 
but  probably  two  hundred  miles  as  the  river  runs.  There 
are  thi'ee  points  of  departure  for  the  Ocklawaha,  namely, 
from  Palatka,  Ocala  (near  Silver  Spring),  and  Leesburg. 
Tlie  usual  route  is  between  Palatka  and  Silver  Spring,  either 
ascending  or  descending.  The  boats  are  necessarily  small, 
but  are  comfortable,  and  the  service  good.  The  trip  occu- 
pies twenty  hours,  more  or  less,  the  conditions  of  naviga- 
tion rendering  piinctuality  impossible.  To  and  from  Lees- 
burg, on  Lake  Griffin,  adds  about  seventy  miles  to  the 
distance, 


THE   OCKLAWAHA.  297 

The  Ocklawalia  affords,  under  comfortable  travelling  con- 
ditions, an  interior  view  of  a  great  cypress  swamp,  such  as 
cannot  otherwise  be  obtained  in  Florida.  Since  the  voyage 
cannot  be  accomplished  by  daylight,  an  opportunity  is  af- 
forded to  witness  navigation  by  torchlight  under  exception- 
ally favorable  circumstances.  Tlie  use  of  firearms  is  very 
properly  prohibited  on  all  the  boats,  and  as  a  result  the  wild 
creatures  of  the  swanijj  have  become  quite  fearless,  alligators 
often  lying  still  on  their  favorite  logs  while  the  boat  passes, 
while  herons,  eagles,  owls,  and  other  denizens  of  the  forest 
hardly  take  the  trouble  to  flap  lazily  from  their  perches. 
"When  promiscuous  firing  was  allowed,  animal  life  along 
the  river  was  almost  exterminated,  and  human  life  on  the 
boats  was  constantly  imperiled.  The  wisdom  of  jorotecting 
the  game  must  now  be  evident  to  all  save  the  most  incon- 
siderate. 

The  extreme  crookedness  of  the  stream,  which  may  be 
likened  to  a  series  of  capital  S's,  is  such  that  a  i^eculiar  re- 
cessed wheel  and  a  double  steering  gear  is  necessary.  It  is 
intei'esting  to  stand  on  the  upper  deck  immediately  above 
the  stern-wheel  and  watch  the  operation  of  the  i^eculiar  me- 
chanism when  turning  a  sharp  curve.  The  skill  of  the  negro 
pilots,  and  the  strength  and  endurance  displayed  by  them  in 
steering  this  complicated  course  is  well  worthy  of  notice. 

Some  little  caution  is  advisable  for  passengers  on  the 
iipper  deck,  as  the  rail  is  often  swept  by  the  boughs  of  trees, 
and  serious  accidents  have  occasionally  befallen  heedless 
travellers.  It  is  only  necessary,  however,  to  keep  a  bright 
lookout.  There  is  always  time  enough  to  get  out  of  the 
way,  and,  when  practicable,  the  boat's  officers  give  warning. 

Canoeists  and  others  contemplating  camping  expeditions 
along  the  Ocklawaha  should  take  into  account  the  infre- 
quency  of  practicable  camping  places.  More  than  nine- 
tentlis  of  the  distance  is  through  a  dense  growth  of  partly 
submerged  cypress,  and  only  at  a  few  points  does  dry  land 
approach  the  channel. 

The  following  list  of  landings,  localities,  and  distances 
from  Palatka  was  made  out  by  Captain  J.  E.  Manucy,  of  the 
steamer  Astatula,  who  began  life  on  the  Ocklawaha  when 


25)  S 


THK   OCKLAWAHA. 


barges  propelled  by  i)oles  wei'e  the  only  craft  in  use,  and 
Seminole  arrows  were  always  among  the  chances  of  the  day's 
experiences.  The  names  are  mainly  those  in  vogue  among 
the  bargemen  in  the  early  days  of  pioneer  navigation  : 


MILES 

Ila-t's  Grove 1 

Rolleston 2-^ 

White's  Road 2)4 

San  Mateo 6 

Dana's  Creek T 

Brown's  Lauding 7J^ 

Murphy  Island Sti" 

Buffa'o  Bluff 9>i 

Hamlin's  Old  Store 12 

Horse  Landing 16 

Satsuma 18 

Kashua 19 

Root's  Wnarf 20 

Three  Sisters 22 

VVelaka 25 

Mouth  of  Ocklawaha  i'>M 

Double  S.  S 28 

Boyd's  Creek  29      I 

Bear  Island  31      I 

Davenport 32 

Toney's  Hole 33 

Poo  '"Man's  Labor  (Pinner's) 37 

Narrows 39 

Freeborn's  Cut 39)^ 

Riverside 40      j 

Deep  Creek 43      j 

Jac 'i  Gates 44      \ 

Turkev  Creek  45      ] 

Blu3,  or  Salt,  Spring 43      j 

Cedar  Landing  50      j 

Jam  Log  52      j 

Agnew's  Landing 53 

Turkev  Foot  54      i 

Fort  Brooke 56      ' 

Jordan's  Landing    5T 

Orange  Creek   (O.  Spring   Land-         I 

ing) : 51^' 

Oranse  Sprins  Shoals 58 

Needle's  Eye  " 59     . 

Enoch  &  Collins'  Landing 60 

(Here  note  the  re-entrant  bends. ) 

Gray's  Cut  .   .   61     : 

McBride's  Landing 61M 

Twin  Palmettos  (west  bank) 62 

I-oug  Reach 63 

lud.an  Bluff 64     , 

Harper's  Ferrv 65      ! 

Bii.'  Eddv  ...." 66      I 

Matchett's  Shoals 67      I 

Tobacco  Patch 67^ 


MILES 

Hart's  Secession  Camp 68 

Payne's  Landing 69 

Douglas  Landing 69)^ 

lola 70 

Well's  Landing 72 

Forty-foot  Biulf 74 

Rough  and  Ready  Cut 75 

Chief's  Sign 77 

Log  Landing  81 

Eureka  Cut-off 84 

Eureka 85 

Cypress  Gate 85^^ 

Pine  Island 87 

Sunday  Bluff 90 

Twin  Cypress  (east  bank) 91 

Bear  Tree 93 

Star  Island 93}^ 

Suudav  Run 94 

Fern  Tree 94}is 

Hogau's  Landing 95 

Pin  Hook 96 

Hell's  Half  Acre  (island) 97 

Park's  Landing 98 

Dodger  Island  99 

Gore's  Landing 100 

Brush-heap 102 

Straits  of  "  Dardin  Kenels  " 103 

Osceola's  Old  Field 103 

Durisoe's  Landing 106 

Rogers'Cnt .108 

Stua -t  Creek 109 

Chitty's  Avenue 110 

Palmetto  Grove Ill 

Long's  Landing 113 

Mill  View 114 

Grahamville 115 

Howard's  Landing 116 

Shmetavlor 120 

McKro'ikl's  Old  Field 123 

D.'lk's  Bluff 125 

Silver  Sprinsr  Run 123 

White  Oak  Laiuliiit,' 127 

HeMngton's  Landing 129 

Rogers'  Grove 130 

Marshall's  Landing .131 

Pasteur's  Landinsr 132 

Robinson's  Liinding 134 

Turpentine  Still  Landing 13414 

Jacob's  Wells 134>J' 

Silver  Springs 135 


SILVER  SPRIN(i.  2*J0 

182.  Silver  Spring;,  Marion  County. 

Hotel. — Silver  Springs  Hotel,  $3  a  day. 

Railroad.— The  Florida  Central  and  Peninsula,  north  to  Jacksonville  (129 
miles),  west  to  Ocala  (3  miles).  Tickets  good  in  either  direction  are  sold 
from  St.  Augustine  or  Palatka. 

Steamers. — To  Palatka  and  Leesburg  via  the  Ocklawaha.    (See  Route  153.) 

Silver  Spring  Run.  —  The  cliauge  from  the  dark  brown 
water  of  the  Ocklawaha  to  the  crystal  transparency  of  Sil- 
ver Sjiring  Enn  is  almost  startling.  The  run  is  9  miles 
long,  and  clear  as  the  water  seems  at  the  mouth  it  is  still 
clearer  at  the  source.  There  is  some  reason  to  believe  that 
De  Soto  visited  this  wonderful  spring  on  his  march  of  dis- 
covery and  conquest  in  1539,  and  if  he  did  so  it  is  hardly  to 
be  wondered  at  if  he  thought  he  had  discovered  the  verita- 
ble fountain  of  youth.  It  is  the  most  famous  spring  in 
Florida,  perhaps  because  it  is  the  most  accessible,  for  there 
are  others  that  are  not  unworthy  rivals,  each  having  some 
charm  peculiar  to  itself  that  leaves  the  visitor  in  doubt  as 
to  which  is  the  more  beautiful. 

At  the  ordinary  height  of  water,  according  to  careful 
measurements  made  by  Dr.  D.  G.  Brinton,  the  spring  dis- 
charges daily  over  three  hundred  million  gallons  of 
water,  more  than  three  hundred  times  as  much  as  is  car- 
ried by  the  Croton  Aqueduct  of  New  York,  and  750  times 
as  much  as  is  delivered  by  the  new  Liverpool  water-works 
at  Vyrnwy,  Wales.  The  same  observer  found  the  uniform 
temi^erature  72.2°  F.  The  surface  level  of  the  spring  va- 
ries at  different  seasons  sometimes  as  much  as  3  feet.  It 
is  ajDt  to  be  highest  after  the  summer  rains.  At  all  seasons, 
however,  it  discharges  a  stream  of  suflficient  volume  to  float 
river  steamers  of  moderate  size.  The  water  rushes  upward 
through  dark  fissures  in  the  limestone  rock,  keeping  beds  of 
white  sand  in  constant  agitation.  It  is  "hard"  water,  not 
good  to  drink,  but  of  such  marvellous  transparency  that  the 
bottom  is  distinctly  visible  at  depths  of  60  to  100  feet. 
There  are  five  principal  oi^enings  through  which  the  water 
rises  near  the  spring  head,  and  others  occur  at  intervals 
along  the  run.  At  one  of  them,  known  as  "The  Bone- 
yard,"  about  two   miles   down  the  run,  the   dismembered 


300  SlLVKIl   SPRINO. 

skeleton  of  a  mastodon  has  l)cen  found.  Fully  to  appreci- 
ate the  wonders  of  this  fascinating  spot  one  should  explore 
it  at  leisure  in  a  small  boat.  Even  when  seen  from  the 
deck  of  a  steamer  the  run  affords  a  strange  series  of  pict- 
ures, the  like  of  which  are  hardly  to  be  found  elsewhere. 
Fish  abound  in  all  these  springs,  but  owing  to  the  clearness 
of  the  water  they  are  not  easily  taken. 

Every  traveller  will  hear  it  asserted  that  the  water  of  Sil- 
ver Spring,  as  indeed  of  all  oth?r  springs  of  like  transpar- 
ency, has  a  magnifying  power.  This  is  obviously  a  delusion 
where  the  surface  is  level,  since  a  curved  surface  of  the 
denser  medium,  glass  or  water,  is  necessary  to  produce  ap- 
l^arent  enlargement.  Occasionally,  in  a  boiling  spring  dis- 
torted fragmentary  glimpses  of  magnified  objects  may  be 
caught  where  the  surface  momentarily  rises  to  a  convex 
form.  Even  wdien  the  water  is  quiet,  however,  the  illusion 
is  favored  by  its  very  high  refractive  power,  which  distorts 
objects  not  directly  beneath  the  spectator's  eye.  Thus  an 
approximately  level  bottom  seems,  when  viewed  from  a 
small  boat,  to  be  a  hemispherical  depression  with  only  a 
foot  or  two  of  depth  at  the  rim,  but  as  the  boat  moves  the 
depression  seems  to  move  also,  the  gi'eatest  depth  remain- 
ing directly  beneath  the  boat. 


BLUE  SPRING.  301 


183.  Blue  Spring,  Marion  County. 

(Post-office,  Juliette.) 

Hotel  —  The  Coitarrc  Hotel,  f2  a  clay. 

Sinff^c  teams,  f 2  to  $2.2.5  a  day.  Double  teams.  14  to  $5  a  day.  Boats  down 
Blue  River.  $1,  or  Si. .50  with  oarsman.  Stea-m  Launch  to  Dulinellon  and  re- 
turn, $1  apiece  for  party,  or  $1.5  to  $20  if  chartered  for  the  day. 

Guides,  f  1  to  $2.50  a  "day. 

Blue  Spring  is  a  station  on  tlie  Silver  Springs,  Ocala  &  Gulf 
Railroad,  20  miles  west  of  Ocala.  The  spring,  named  Wekiva 
by  the  Seminoles  and  Las  Aguas  Azul  by  the  Spaniards,  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  Florida,  surrounded  by  an 
amphitheatre  of  bluffs  covered  with  a  fine  growth  of  magno- 
lia, hickory,  live  oak,  bay,  and  the  like,  interspersed  with 
pine.  The  spring  is  350  feet  wide,  of  a  color  that  varies 
from  blue  to  green,  owing  to  unexplained  conditions  or 
to  individual  perception  of  color.  So  clear  is  the  water  and 
so  high  its  refractive  jiowers  that,  looking  from  the  bank, 
a  stranger  cannot  be  convinced  that  the  basin  is  more  than 
three  or  four  feet  deep.  It  is  a  favorite  jiastime  among  the 
newly  arrived  to  lay  wagers  regarding  the  depth  and  then 
paddle  out  and  take  soundings  with  an  oar.  The  actual 
depth  is  25  feet  or  more.  The  spring  derives  much  of  its 
peculiar  beauty  from  the  wonderful  vegetation  that  rises  in 
endless  variety  of  color  and  form  along  the  rocky  dykes 
and  sand-bars  of  the  bottom.  To  float  upon  the  absolutely 
invisible  water  above  these  fairy-like  bowers  is  an  experience 
never  to  be  forgotten.  The  water  boils  up  through  a  broad, 
and  no  doubt  a  very  deep-bed  of  pure  white  sand,  in  vol- 
ume sufficient  to  forma  considerable  stream — not  nearly  so 
large,  however,  as  Silver  Spring  Run.  All  along  the  banks, 
too,  are  other  lesser  springs,  overhung  by  ferns  and  vines 
that  rival  those  beneath  the  surface  of  the  water.  Soon 
after  the  completion  of  the  railroad  a  number  of  loaded 
jiercussion  artillery  shells  were  found  in  shoal  water  in 
the  spring.  They  were  no  doubt  relics  of  the  Civil  War, 
but  their  presence  here  has  never  been  accounted  for,  as 
no  military  force  is  Iniown  to  have  visited  the  i)lace. 

Visitors  should  not  fail  to  go  down  the  run  to  Dunnellon, 


302  liLUE  SPRING— DUNNELLON. 

either  by  steam  launch  or  in  a  row-boat.  The  distance, 
allowing  for  tlie  windings  of  the  stream,  is  about  6  miles, 
and  the  whole  trip  is  a  series  of  surprises.  Here  and  there 
are  deep  rocky  chasms  through  which  fresh  volumes  of  water 
boil  upward,  and  at  frequent  intervals  other  springs  burst 
from  the  banks,  sometimes  utilized  to  turn  water-wheels  and 
each  i^ossessed  of  some  peculiar  charm  of  its  own.  The  lower 
reaches  of  the  run  are  bordered  with  cypresses  and  fre- 
quented by  garfish,  turtles,  and  alligators.  Dunnellon  is  at 
the  junction  of  the  "Withlacoochee,  and  thence,  if  desired, 
the  train  may  be  taken  back  to  Blue  Spring.  To  row  back 
against  the  swift  current  with  such  boats  as  are  available 
calls  for  a  good  three  hours  of  hard  work. 

A  word  of  warning  in  regard  to  bathing.  The  water  is  so 
pure  that  its  siDecific  gravity  is  low.  Hence  it  is  harder  to 
swim  in.  Oue  may  easily  dive  to  a  great  dei)th,  but  it  is 
not  so  easy  to  reach  the  surface  again,  and  inexperienced 
swimmers  may  readily  find  themselves  in  trouble. 


184.  Dunnellon,  Marion  County. 

Hotel.— TAc  Rcnfro  House,  SI. 50  a  day. 

Railroads.— The  Ocala,  Silver  Springs,  and  Gulf  Railrcad  northeast  to 
Ocala  (20  miles),  southwest  to  Homosassa  (28  miles). 

Near  the  confluence  of  the  Withlacoochee  and  Blue  Riv- 
ers the  laud  rises  into  hammock-covered  bluffs,  affording  an 
excellent  site  for  a  town.  A  large  tract  was  acqiiired  by  a 
land  company  in  1887,  and  considerable  money  was  laid  out 
in  a  railway  station,  cutting  avenues  through  the  forest, 
and  making  the  beginnings  of  a  populous  community.  A 
park  was  set  apart  near  the  junction  of  the  rivers  and  a 
hotel,  church,  and  schoolhouse  were  built  shortly  after  the 
completion  of  the  railroad,  which  here  crosses  the  With- 
lacoochee. The  locality  is  attractive,  and  the  land  of  excel- 
lent quality.  It  was  not,  however,  until  the  summer  of  1889 
that  the  fabulous  wealth  underlying  the  soil  was  discovered. 
There  had  been  some  passing  excitement  in  the  vicinity  con- 
cerning an  alleged  discovery  of  gypsum,  and  every  one  was 


DUNNELLON.  303 

on  the  lookout  for  specimens.  Albert  Vogt,  of  Dnnnellon, 
picked  up  a  chalky  substance  in  the  hammock,  and  handed 
it  to  Mr.  J.  F.  Dunn,  who  sent  it  to  Ocala  lor  examination 
by  Dr.  Rene  SnoAvden,  a  chemist  of  that  jjlace.  Analysis 
gave  from  sixty  to  eighty-one  and  a  half  per  cent,  of  jihos- 
phates,  and  specimens  subsequently  found  ranged  as  high 
as  ninety  per  cent.  The  value  of  the  discovery  was  at  once 
apparent,  and  the  earth  was  drilled  and  quarried  as  if  gold 
were  sought,  instead  of  a  really  useful  article  of  commerce. 
The  discovery  in  fact  threw  upon  the  market  fertilizers  of 
such  jnirity  and  strength  that  for  some  time  it  was  not 
known  how  they  could  be  used.  The  area  underlaid  by  this 
extraordinarily  rich  deposit  is  not  at  this  writing  clearly  do- 
fined.  It  extends  on  both  sides  of  the  Withlacoochee  River, 
in  a  belt  some  forty  miles  long  and  six  to  eight  miles  wide. 
The  bed  is  usually  about  thirty  feet  thick,  occasionally  ex- 
posed, but  oftener  ten  to  fifteen  feet  below  the  surface.  It  is 
apjiarentlyan  island  of  exceptionally  rich  quality,  formed  by 
some  unknown  geological  alchemy  in  the  vast  area  of  phos- 
phatic  rock  that  underlies  the  whole  peninsula  of  Floiida. 
That  other  similar  specimens  may  be  found  is  j^robable,  and 
indeed  the  experimental  borings  already  made  have  brought 
to  light  many  minerals,  of  great  interest  to  the  geologist  if 
not  of  unsuspected  commercial  value. 

Aside  from  the  interest  of  the  phosphate  works,  the  visi- 
tor will  find  the  vicinity  of  Dnnnellon  healthful  and  at- 
tractive. Blue  Spring  and  its  outlet  (see  Route  153)  are 
beautiful  beyond  description.  The  Withlacoochee  affords 
good  fishing,  and  along  its  banks  is  game  in  abundance. 
Oarsmen  will  do  well  to  remember  that  the  current  is  swift 
and  strong,  and  that  an  hour's  drift  down  stream  means 
three  hours  of  hard  work  on  the  return.  It  is  however  a 
pleasant  trip  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  15  miles  distant. 
A  steam  launch  is  best,  considering  the  return  up  stream, 
but  arrangements  can  often  be  made  to  row  down  in  a  small 
boat  and  return  on  a  river  steamer. 

The  "Withlacoochee  is  remarkable  in  that  its  general 
course  is  northerly,  like  that  of  the  St.  John's  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.     These  are  the  onlv  two  Florida  streams  of  anv  cou- 


o04  DUNNELLON— LAKE   WEIR. 

siflerable  size  that,  with  their  tributaries,  run  northwaid, 
while  between  them  is  the  Kissimmee,  running  almost  due 
south. 


185.  Lake  Weir,  Marion  County. 

Lat.  28"  58'  N.-Long.  81°  50'  W. 

Hotels. — Chautanqaa  Houae,  Lake  Weir,  $2  a  day,  $25  a  month  ;  La!:e  S.'de 
Hotel,  South  Lake  \\e.r. 

Railroads. — The  Fonda  Southern;  sonth  to  Leesbnrg ;  north  to  Ocala. 
The  F.  C.  &  P.  Ey.  passes  3  miles  west  of  the  lake. 

Lake  Weir  is  nearly  round,  and  about  three  miles  in  di- 
ameter. This  makes  no  account  of  two  large  bays  at  the 
western  end,  whicli  increase  the  total  length  to  5  miles  (N.W, 
and  S.E. ),  and  give  it  a  total  area  of  about  6,400  acres. 
From  the  shores  the  laud  rises  into  bluffs,  often  forty 
or  fifty  feet  high,  which  are  largely  occuiiied  as  villa  sites 
by  winter  ]esidents  from  the  North,  as  well  as  by  permanent 
settlers  whose  orange-groves  stretch  back  to  the  border  of 
the  pine  forest.  An  excellent  road  makes  the  circuit  of  the 
lake,  a  drive  of  twenty  miles,  which  can  easily  be  covered 
in  three  hours.  The  hotels  are  well  supplied  with  steam- 
launches  and  sail-boats,  which  are  for  hire  at  reasonable 
rates.  The  lake  is  deep,  with  clear  water  and  a  sandy  bot- 
tom, and  well  stocked  with  fish.  In  the  vicinity  are  seven 
post-offices,  among  which  it  is  desirable  to  distinguish  if 
letters  are  expected.  Lake  Weir  P.O.  is  at  the  north  side 
of  the  Lake.  Here  are  the  ' '  Chautauqua  "  grounds,  with  a  lec- 
ture hall.  Hood's  Seminary,  and  stores.  Two  miles  east  is 
Ocklairaha  Station  P.O.,  through  which  mns  the  road  from 
Lake  Weir  to  Moss  Bluff  on  the  Ocklawaha  River  (3  miles). 
Three  miles  south  is  Eastlalce  P.O.  Two  miles  south  is 
Staunton  P.O.  One  and  a  half  mile  farther  south  is  Foster 
Park  P.O.,  and  south  of  this  again.  South  Lake  Weir  P.  0. 

In  the  soiithwestern  part  of  the  lake,  nearly  completing 
the  circuit  of  the  shores,  are  four  islands,  two  of  them  of  con- 
siderable size  and  under  cultivation.  West  of  these  islands  are 
the  broad  bays  above  referred  to,  and  at  frequent  intervals 
along  the  shores  of  lake  and  bays  are  charming  country  seats 
and  rich  plantations.   Between  the  larger  lake  and  the  Ockla- 


LAKE   WEIR— LEESBURO.  305 

waba,  on  a  strip  of  land  some  four  miles  wide  and  six  miles 
long,  are  thirty  or  more  small  lakes  and  ponds,  offering  a 
pleasing  variety  to  sportsmen  who  love  an  all-day  tramp 
with  rod  or  gun. 


190.  Leesburg,  Lake  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1890,  1,200. 

Lat.  28°  45'  N.— Long.  81°  53'  W. 

Hotels. — Union,  Central,  Lake  City.  Leeshurg,  $2  a  day  ;  $8  to  $10  a  week. 

Railroads. —  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula,  to  Ocala,  Jacksonville.  Tavares, 
etc.    Florida  Southern  to  Jacksonville,  Brooksville,  Punta  Gorda,  etc. 

Steamboats  daily  to  all  points  ou  the  lakes  ;  weekly  down  the  Ocklawaha 
River. 

Saddle  horses,  25c.  an  hour,  $2  a  day.  Single  team,  50c.  an  hour,  S3  a  day  ; 
double  team,  75c.  an  hour  ;  $4.50  a  day. 

Kow-boats,  50c.  a  day.    Sail-boats,  50c.  an  hour  ;  $5  a  day. 

Guides  for  hunting  and  fishing.  Special  terms  are  made  according  to  extent 
of  trip. 

Leesburg  was  practically  built  up  around  the  County 
Court  House  which  was  placed  here  in  1868,  as  a  compro- 
mise between  the  claims  of  adjacent  towns.  There  were 
only  two  or  three  settlers'  cabins  on  the  isthmus  at  the  time, 
and  for  several  years  jjrogress  was  almost  impercejatible.  lu 
1885  the  first  railroad  came,  followed  in  1887  by  others,  and 
since  then  its  growth  has  been  very  rajjid. 

The  Cential  Lake  region  of  Florida  includes  Lakes  Apop- 
ka  (73  sq,  miles),  Harris  (28  sq.  miles),  Griffin  (15  sq.  miles), 
Eustis  (13  sq.  miles),  Dora  (9  sq.  miles).  Little  Lake  Harris 
(8  sq.  miles),  Yale  (8  sq.  miles).  Lakes  Harris,  Griffin,  and 
Eustis  (see  map,  page  46)  are  close  together,  with  Leesburg 
on  a  neck  of  land  between  Griffin  and  Hariis.  Lake  Apop- 
ka,-the  largest  of  the  group,  is  4  miles  southeast  of  Lake 
Harris.  Besides  these  larger  lakes  there  are  numerous 
smaller  ones  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  country  sur- 
rounding Leesburg  is  in  the  main  rolling  pine  laud  inter- 
spersed with  hammocks.  Bold  bluffs  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence along  the  lake  shores,  some  of  them  still  covered  with 
the  native  forest,  others  showing  the  regular  dark-green 
rows  of  orange-groves.  lu  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Lees- 
20 


306  LEESBURG. 

burg  there  is  a  considerable  extent  of  cleared  land  devoted 
to  the  various  garden  crops  as  well  as  to  oranges,  lemons, 
limes,  and  the  like. 

Five  miles  northwest  of  Leesburg,  near  the  shore  of  Lake 
Grifliu,  is  Fruitland  Park,  where  one  of  the  most  successful 
r  of  the  English  colonies  is  established.  It  numbers  now 
nearly  100  members,  has  a  club,  and  is  already  an  attractive 
place  for  young  Englishmen  who  find  no  satisfactory  ojien- 
ing  at  home.  Full  information  may  be  obtained  from  Sta- 
l^ylton  &  Co.,  Fruitland  Park  Colony,  Polk  County,  Florida. 

Excursions  by  boat  on  the  lakes  are  among  the  attractions 
of  Leesburg,  and  the  railroad  facilities  are  such  that  many 
interesting  localities  as,  for  instance,  Lake  Apopka,  Lake 
Weir,  Lake  Eustis,  Mount  Dora,  and  Fort  Mason,  may  be 
easily  reached.  By  consulting  the  local  time-tables  return- 
ing trains  may  be  met  at  some  other  station.  Thus  one  may 
take  the  early  train  to  Tavares,  hire  a  boat,  spend  the  day  in 
sailing  and  fishing,  and  catch  the  Leesburg  train  at  Fort 
Mason.  Fairly  good  roads  follow  the  shores  of  all  the  lakes, 
as  nearly  as  the  conformation  of  the  land  permits.  It  is  an 
all-day  ride  or  drive  around  any  one  of  these  lakes,  and 
somewhat  monotonous  withal,  but  there  are  fine  forests — 
pine  and  hardwood,  occasional  clearings  or  outlooks  over 
the  lake,  and  with  proper  jjrovision  for  a  midday  picnic  such 
a  trip  may  be  very  enjoyable. 

All,  or  nearly  all,  the  lakes  in  this  vicinity  are  of  clear  pure 
water  with  sandy  bottoms,  and  are  well  stocked  with  the 
usual  fresh-water  varieties  of  fish.  Alligators,  while  not  so 
abundant  as  formerly,  may  be  seen  sunning  themselves  any 
warm  day  along  the  lake  shores,  and  water-fowl  are  plenty  in 
the  season,  though  always  wild. 

Lake  Aj^ophn,  the  second  largest  in  the  State,  is  18  miles 
long  and  11  miles  wide.  It  may  be  reached  from  Leesburg 
by  rail  to  Apopka  station  or  through  a  canal  from  Lake  Har- 
ris. 


LEESBURG.  3(1"; 


Dade's  Massacre. 


The  first  active  outbreak  of  the  Seminole  \i-ar  vcas  on  No- 
vember 2G,  1835,  when  a  friendly  chief,  Charley  Emathla, 
was  killed  near  Micanopy  at  the  instance  of  Osceola,  leader 
of  the  hostile  party.  Thereupon  he  began  a  series  of  at- 
tacks upon  solitary  settlements,  culminating -in  the  assassina- 
tion of  General  Thompson  and  his  companions  near  Fort 
King,  and  the  annihilation  of  Major  Dade's  command  in 
the  Wahoo  Swam}:).  Dade  left  Fort  Brooke,  on  Tampa  Bay, 
December  24,  1835,  with  reinforcements  for  Fort  King, 
near  Ocala.  The  old  military  road  ran  a  little  north  of  east, 
crossing  both  branches  of  the  Withlacoochee,  and  skirting 
the  edge  of  the  extensive  swamps  surrounding  the  forks  of 
the  river,  a  favorite  retreat  of  the  Indians  when  hard  pressed. 
The  command  consisted  of  Captain  Gardner's  company  of 
the  Second  Artillery,  and  Captain  Frazer's,  of  the  Third  In- 
fantry, 110  strong  all  told.  It  was  not  known  to  the  officers 
that  hostilities  had  actually  begun  at  the  north,  and  no  pre- 
cautions were  taken  to  guai'd  against  ambuscade  beyond 
marching  with  loaded  pieces.  At  ten  o'clock  on  the  morn- 
ing of  December  28th,  the  command  was  passing  through 
the  pines  and  scrub  jDalmetto,  with  a  savanna  of  tall  grass  on 
the  right,  close  to  the  road.  From  a  dense  growth  of  pal- 
mettos a  withering  fire  was  delivered  by  a  large  party  of 
concealed  Indians,  at  a  distance  of  50  or  60  yards.  Major 
Dade  was  killed  at  the  first  fire,  and  although  the  column 
was  temjiorarily  thrown  into  confusion,  the  men  at  once 
rallied  and  cleared  the  palmettos  with  their  bayonets,  rout- 
ing the  Indians  for  a  time.  Captain  Gardner,  now  in  com- 
mand, took  advantage  of  the  moment's  respite  to  drag  a  few 
logs  together,  forming  a  low,  triangular  breastwork,  and  be- 
hind this  every  man  lay  down,  loading  and  firing  as  best  he 
could  till  killed  or  disabled.  There  they  all  lay  when  a 
searching  expedition  reached  the  place,  six  weeks  later, 
every  man  in  his  place,  and  most  of  them  with  their  car- 
tridge-boxes empty.  One  private  soldier,  Thomas  by  name, 
who  w'as  wounded  at  the  first  firs,  concealed  himself  in  the 
scrub  and  reached  Fort  Brooke  the  next  day.     Two  others. 


308  LKESHuim. 

severely  wouuded,  were  overlooked  in  the  final  massacre 
and  dragged  themselves  sixty-five  miles  through  the  woods, 
reaching  the  fort  two  or  three  days  later.  Their  accounts 
agreed  with  those  of  a  chief  subsequently  captured,  to  the 
eifect  that  nearly  half  the  detachment  fell  at  the  first  fire. 
The  dead  numbered  8  officers,  97  non-commissioned  officers 
and  privates,  and  2  civilians,  107  in  all ;  3  men  barely  es- 
caping with  their  lives. 

So  completely  did  the  Indians  overrun  the  country  after 
this  that,  although  their  main  body  of  warriors  was  badly 
punished  by  General  Clinch,  just  below  the  forks  of  the 
Withlacoochee,  on  December  31st,  the  news  of  the  massacre 
was  not  known  at  Fort  King  till  February.  The  garrison  at 
Fort  Brooke  was  not  strong  enough  to  venture  out,  and  it 
was  not  till  early  in  that  month  that  General  Clinch  was 
sufficiently  reinforced  to  resume  the  offensive.  On  the  20tli 
he  visited  the  scene  of  the  massacre  and  buried  the  remains 
of  the  victims,  most  of  whom  lay  where  they  had  fallen.  In 
1842  these  were  disinterred  and  removed  to  the  mili- 
tary burial-ground  at  St.  Augustine.  Francis  Langdon 
Dade  was  a  Virginian,  Brevet  Major  of  the  Fourth  Infantry. 
He  was  in  command  of  the  fated  detachment  because  he 
had  volunteered  to  take  the  place  of  Captain  Gardner,  whose 
wife  was  dangerously  ill  at  Fort  Brooke.  Mrs.  Gardner, 
however,  was  sent  to  Key  "West,  and  her  husband  hastened 
after  his  company  in  time  to  resume  his  place  at  its  head 
and  die  with  the  rest. 

The  scene  of  this  massacre  is  about  4  miles  north  of  Dia- 
gem  Junction,  at  the  crossing  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  and  the  F.  S. 
Railroads.     (See  crossed  sabres  on  map,  page  86.) 


Sub-tropical  Florida. 

South  of  Latitude  27  N. 

Wherever  the  cocoa-palm  will  grow  and  bear  fruit  per- 
ennially for  a  generation  or  two,  the  conditions  may  be 
said  to  be  sub-tropical.  In  Florida  the  northern  limit  may 
be  placed  at  Jupiter  Inlet  for  the  Atlantic  Coast,  and  at 
Charlotte  Harbor  for  the  Gnlf.  In  other  words,  sub-tropical 
Florida  is  that  portion  of  the  peninsula  that  lies  south  of 
the  27th  parallel.  This  includes  Lake  Worth  and  the  Char- 
lotte Harbor  region,  which  have  been  described  respectively 
under  Parts  I.  and  II.  of  the  Handbook. 

At  present,  Biscayne  Bay  and  the  Florida  Keys  are  jjrac- 
tically  the  only  inhabited  and  accessible  jiortion  of  sub- 
tropical Florida.  The  rest  is  a  wilderness,  with  here  and 
there  a  hunter's  cabin  or  an  Indian  camp.  By  far  the  great- 
er part  of  the  mainland  is  uninhabitable,  and  many  of  the 
Keys  are  awash  when  there  is  a  high  spring  tide,  or  a  strong 
wind  setting  shoreward.  Others  of  them,  however,  are  8  or 
10  feet  above  high-water  mark,  and  are  capable  of  cultiva- 
tion, making  delightful  sites  for  winter  residences,  well 
south  of  the  frost  line,  and  readily  accessible.  The  main- 
land abounds  with  springs  and  streams  of  fresh  water,  most 
of  it  more  or  less  impregnated  with  lime.  The  water  of 
Okeechobee  and  the  Everglades  is  drinkable,  as  are  also  the 
streams  that  flow  therefrom.  Almost  anywhere  in  this  re- 
gion fresh  water  may  be  obtained,  by  drilling  into  the  soft 
calcareous  rock  to  a  depth  of  15  or  20  feet,  sinking  a  pipe 
therein  and  fitting  a  pump  on  top.  The  water  is  at  first 
impregnated  with  lime,  but  this  largely  disappears  with 
use.  On  most  of  the  Keys,  rain  water  or  distilled  water 
is  preferred  for  drinking. 

Signal  service  observations  at  Key  West,  since  1870,  give 
mean  temperature  as  follows  :  Sjiring,  76,9"  ;  summer,  83.8°  ; 
autumn,  78.8°  ;  winter,  G8.3°.  These  were  noted  early  in  the 
morning,  in  mid-afternoon,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night. 
The  average  rainfall  for  the  same  period  was  :  Spring,  6.10 


310       SUB-TROPICAL   FLORIDA— BISCAYNE   BAY. 

iuclies ;  summer,  13.47  inches;  auhimn,  14.80  inches;  winter, 
5.94  inches.  The  higliest  recoftled  temperature  "was  97^ 
(Juno,  1880),  and  the  lowest  was  44°  (December,  1878). 

At  the  recently  established  signal  station  at  Jupiter,  near 
the  northern  limit  of  the  sub-tropical  region,  the  averages 
thus  far  stand  as  follows  :  Spring,  72.4°  ;  summer,  80°  ; 
autumn,  75.7°  ;   winter,  69.4°.     Annual  mean,   73.9°. 


200.     Biscajne  Bay,  Dade  County. 

Lat.  25°  25'  to  25°  5(;'  N.— Long.  80°  10'  W. 
Hotel. — Bay  Vien\  at  Cocoaimt  G.ove,  $10  a  week. 

Boats. — Good-sized  sloop  or  j-avvl  with  two  men,  $50  a  month.    Sailboats  $2 
a  day.    Few  good  rowboats. 
Means  of  access. — Sailing  vesse'.s  from  Key  West. 

If  natural  advantages  of  climate,  location,  and  surround- 
ings are  alone  to  be  considered,  Biscayne  Bay  may  challenge 
comparison  with  any  part  of  Florida.  At  present  the  only 
stated  means  of  access  is  by  way  of  Key  West,  whence  mail 
boats  sail  once  a  week.  The  trip  (about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles)  may  be  made  in  a  day,  or  it  may  take  a  week. 
This  is  the  only  nominally  "  regular  "  passenger  traffic.  A 
small  steamer,  the  lola,  has  been  advertised  to  run  from  Key 
West  to  Miami,  but  no  details  of  its  actual  sen-ice  are  at 
hand.  It  is  understood  that  the  Key  West  and  Havana 
steamers  from  New  York  will  land  freight  and  passengers  at 
Cape  Florida  as  soon  as  paying  returns  are  assured. 

The  present  inaccessibility  of  the  bay  excludes  it  from  the 
list  of  jjopular  resorts,  and  its  beauties  and  attractions  are 
known  only  to  a  few  appreciative  yachtsmen,  hunters,  fish- 
ermen, and  winter  residents. 

Lying  along  the  southeastern  curve  of  the  great  peninsula, 
it  is  on  the  very  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  and  separated 
from  it  only  by  a  slender  line  of  coral  reefs  and  islands. 
The  trade  wind  blowing  from  the  ocean  keeps  the  day  tem- 
perature in  fair  weather  at  an  avei'age  of  about  73°  F.  The 
habitable  part  of  the  mainland  is  a  ridge  of  coralline  rock, 
often  not  more  than  four  or  five  miles  wide,  that  separates 
the  bay  from  the  everglades. 


biscayist:  bay.  311 

Through  this  ridge,  at  several  different  points,  streams  of 
•nonderful  beauty  have  cut  channels  through  the  rock,  and 
all  along  shore  there  are  boiling  springs  of  greater  or  less 
energy,  yielding  j^ure,  soft  water  in  unfailing  abundance. 
The  bay  itself  is  about  forty  miles  long  by  six  miles  wide. 
It  is  separated  from  the  ocean  by  a  long  peninsula  that 
reaches  southward  from  the  mainland  until  the  sea  breaks 
through  at  Norris  Cut  and  Bear  Cut,  forming  Virginia  Key 
and  Key  Biscayne.  The  southern  extremity  of  the  latter  is 
known  as  Cape  Florida,  and  is  marked  by  a  fine  old  light- 
house tower,  and  the  ruins  of  the  keeper's  house.  The  light 
was  discontinued  on  the  completion  of  the  Fowey  Rocks 
light,  six  miles  southeast.  The  premises,  with  their  pict- 
ures pie  ruins,  are  now  leased  from  the  Government  by  the 
Biscayne  Bay  Yacht  Club,  whose  headquarters  are  at  Cocoa- 
nut  Grove,  just  across  the  bay.  South  of  this  cape  is  the 
main  oijening  between  the  bay  and  the  ocean,  a  broad  pas- 
sage five  miles  wide,  full  of  shifting  sand-bars,  but  with 
several  good  channels,  through  which  vessels  of  ten  feet 
draught  may  pass  at  low  w^ater. 

In  the  bay  itself  are,  alternately,  sand-bars  and  wide 
reaches  of  navigable  water,  rendering  navigation  difficxilt  for 
all  save  sharpies  and  boats  of  very  light  draught.  There 
is,  however,  deep  water  and  a  good  anchorage  just  inside 
the  cape,  and  ten  feet  draught  may  be  carried  through  the 
mid-channels  of  the  bay. 

Cocoanut  Grove  (P.O.)  is  the  most  considerable  settlement 
on  the  bay.  Here  is  the  only  hotel  south  of  Lake  Worth, 
and  here  the  Biscayne  Bay  Yacht  Club  has  its  headquar- 
ters. Several  Northern  yachtsmen  spend  the  winter  months 
in  this  delightful  haven,  where  as  good  hunting  and  fishing 
is  to  be  found  as  anywhere  in  Florida,  and  where  the  north- 
ers are  tempered  by  the  everglades  on  the  one  hand  and  the 
ocean  on  the  other. 

Miami  (P.O.),  lately  the  county  seat,  is  at  the  mouth  of 
Miami  Eiver,  the  site  of  old  Fort  Dallas,  a  considerable 
military  post  during  the  Seminole  War.  It  was  established 
in  January,  1838,  and  abandoned  June  10,  1858.  The  ruins 
of  the  old  fort,  with  some  of  the  barracks,  still  standing  and 


'>i'2  BIS(L\YNE    HAY. 

occupied  as  dwellings,  are  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 
On  the  south  side  are  several  houses  and  a  store,  the  latter 
being  in  effect  an  Indian  trading  station,  where  the  Semi- 
noles  barter  alligator  hides  from  the  Everglades,  and  dispose 
of  such  other  trojjhies  of  their  lifles  as  are  not  needed  for 
home  consumiition.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  find  two  or 
three  canoes  moored  at  the  wharf,  with  an  indefinite  number 
of  squaws  and  papooses  on  board,  and  a  sujjijIv  of  fresh  meat 
in  the  shape  of  turtles,  and  a  live  pig  or  two.  In  the  woods 
between  Miami  and  Biscayne,  sj^ecimens  of  the  Royal  Palm 
{Oreoduxa  Regia)  are  found  growing  wild,  and  the  curious 
"gumbo  limbo,"  or  West  Indian  birch  (Bitrsera  gummifera), 
is  of  frequent  occurrence. 

The  Miami  River. — For  about  four  miles  from  the  bay  the 
stream  is  from  150  to  200  feet  wide,  and  may  be  ascended  by 
sailboats.  It  divides  into  the  north  and  south  forks  about 
three  miles  from  the  mouth,  both  of  them  swift,  clear 
streams.  The  north  fork  has  imjiassable  rapids,  but  the 
south  fork  can  be  ascended  in  small  boats  to  its  outlet  from 
the  Everglades,  about  six  miles  from  the  bay.  The  grasses 
and  other  aquatic  plants  that  cover  the  bottom  of  the  stream 
are  wonderfully  beautiful  in  their  varied  color  and  graceful 
movements  as  they  are  swayed  to  and  fro  by  the  clear  rush- 
ing water.  Sailing  about  the  bay  in  any  direction  with  a 
suitable  shallow-draft  boat  is  the  jjerfection  of  smooth- 
water  cruising.  Among  the  points  of  especial  interest  are 
the  following  ;  distances  are  given  from  Cocoanut  Grove. 

Biscai/ne  Baif  House  of  Refuge  (12  miles). — This  station  is 
situated  on  a  lonely  beach  about  seven  miles  north  of  Norris 
Cut.  There  is  good  shooting  in  the  hammock  and  along  the 
ridges  at  Bay  Biscayne.  Three  miles  south  of  the  station  is 
the  Crocodile  Pond,  a  small,  land-locked  pool  midway  be- 
tween the  bay  and  the  ocean,  which,  for  some  reason,  is  the  fa- 
vorite resort  of  the  crocodile  (Crocodilus  Acutxs,  Floridiensis), 
as  distinguished  from  the  common  alligator  of  the  fresh- 
water swamps.  The  principal  difference  is  in  the  sharper 
nose,  more  formidable  teeth,  and  fiercer  disposition  of  the 
crocodile,  and  in  the  different  articulation  of  his  jaws,  both 
of  them  being  hinged,  whereas  in  the  case  of  the  alligator 


biscayjS'e  bay.  313 

only  the  lower  one  is  liiuged.  The  alligator  is  rarely 
dangerous,  but  the  crocodile,  it  is  said,  will  attack  a  man  if 
he  thinks  he  has  a  reasonable  chance  of  success.  For  this 
reason  strangers  are  recommended  to  exercise  some  caution 
in  visiting  this  pond. 

Arch  Creek  (15  miles). — Near  the  head  of  the  bay.  A 
wonderfully  beautiful  stream,  flowing  in  a  strong,  deep  cur- 
rent through  a  wide  tangle  of  mangroves  near  its  mouth. 
Two  miles  up  the  stream  divides.  Follow  north  fork  about 
one-half  mile  to  cliffs.  Here  the  stream  has  worn  a  jjassage 
throiigh  the  coralline  rock.  Cliffs  rise  at  times  twenty  feet 
or  more  above  the  water,  draped  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of 
vines,  air-plants,  mosses,  wild  figs,  and  a  x^erplexing  wealth 
of  troi^ical  vegetation.  Three  miles  from  its  mouth  the 
stream  flows  beneath  a  wide,  low  arch  of  rock,  under  which 
a  boat  may  jiass  at  ordinary  stages  of  the  water.  Arch  Creek 
may  be  ascended  to  the  Everglades,  two  miles  above  the  arch. 

Bluff  Rocks  (.3  miles). — This  range  of  cliffs  has  not  its  like 
in  Florida.  Rising  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  midway 
between  Cocoauut  Grove  and  Miami,  it  is  the  most  conspic- 
uous natiaral  landmark  on  the  bay.  The  i^i'eciiaitous  part  of 
the  bluff  is  a  little  more  than  one  mile  long,  and  at  its  high- 
est about  thirty  feet  above  the  water.  Of  course,  this  height 
would  be  insignificant  in  a  hilly  country,  but  in  Florida  it  is 
sufficiently  remarkable  to  be  famous.  The  water  is  shallow 
at  the  foot  of  the  rocks,  but  a  landing  may  be  effected  in  a 
small  boat,  and  the  cliffs  can  be  climbed  almost  anywhere. 
Along  the  to})  of  the  cliff  is  a  dense  hammock  growth,  with 
wild  groves  of  orange  and  lime  trees,  in  full  bearing.  Here 
and  there  are  ruins,  apparently  of  civilized  abodes,  and  at 
the  foot  of  the  cliff  near  by  is  the  Punch  Bowl,  to  which 
stone-cut  stejis  lead,  and  which  evidently  fui-nished  the  water- 
supply  for  these  forgotten  first  settlers.  No  record  exists  of 
Spanish  occupation,  but  it  seems  most  reasonable  to  suppose 
that  there  was  here  either  a  missionary  station  or  a  piratical  re- 
treat, and  in  either  case  Spaniards  were  j^robably  responsible. 

Soldier  Key,  Elliotfs  Key,  and  Fowey  Rocks  Light  are  all 
within  easy  sailing  distance  of  Cocoanut  Grove.  On  the  first 
named  are  buildings  originally  erected  by  the  workmen  en- 


314  BISCAYNE    BAY. 

gaged  in  constructing  Fowey  Eocks  lighthouse.  They  liave 
been  transfoiTed  to  the  Fish  Commission  with  a  view  to  ex- 
jierimenting  in  sponge-culture.  On  Elliott's  Key  are  fine 
plantations  of  pineapples,  and  inside  this  and  the  neighbor- 
ing keys  men  are  at  work  gathering  and  curing  the  sponges 
that  grow  in  abundance  in  the  waters  of  the  bay.  In  shel- 
tered positions  at  the  different  inlets  or  "  cuts"  where  the 
tide  runs  strong  are  of^en  seen  square  pens  or  "  kraals," 
W'here  the  sponges  are  left  for  a  time  to  be  washed  by  the  ebl) 
and  flow,  and  partially  bleached  by  exposure  to  the  sun. 

Fowey  Kocks  Lirjht  (Lat.  25^  85'  25"  N.,  Long.  80"  5'  41" 
W.)  is  a  pyramidal  iron  structure  standing  in  about  five  feet 
of  water  on  the  northern  extremity  of  the  dangerous  Florida 
Reefs.  The  lantern  is  111  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and 
shows  a  fixed  white  light  visible  16^  nautical  miles.  Tlis 
lighthouse  was  completed  in  1878,  and  takes  the  jilace  of  the 
old  tower  on  Ca[)e  Florida,  the  location  being  better  for 
the  purposes  of  navigation.  Formerly  these  rocks  were 
called  the  "  Looe,"  jwobably  a  corruption  of  "  Les  Loups," 
the  wolves,  and  tradition  has  it  that  a  frigate  was  lost 
here  in  the  early  days.  It  is  even  said  that  under  favoi-able 
conditions  her  submerged  guns  and  some  of  her  timbers  can 
still  be  seen. 

Walks,  etc. — There  are  no  roads  in  the  vicinity  of  Bis- 
cayne  Bay,  save  a  few  very  rougii  cart-paths  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  settlements.  The  walking  on  the  ridge  separa- 
ting the  sea  and  Everglades  is  indescribably  diflicult  and 
even  dangerous,  owing  to  the  disintegrated  rock  that  covers 
the  surface.  The  stoutest  of  boots  are  needed  for  pedestrian 
excursions,  and  not  even  these  will  last  long.  The  walk 
across  the  ridge  to  the  Everglades  and  back  is  a  hard  day's 
work,  and  should  be  undertaken  only  by  the  strong  and  sure- 
footed. The  beaches  of  Key  Biscayne,  Virginia  Key,  and 
of  the  peninsula  to  the  northward  afford  good  walking  and 
are  always  interesting.  So,  too,  are  occasional  stretches 
of  beach  on  the  mainland  to  the  southward.  On  one  of 
these,  about  six  miles  south  of  Cocoanut  Grove,  and  about 
one-half  mile  north  of  Shoal  Point,  is  a  bed  of  singing  sand 
that  emits  a  musical  note  under  foot. 


BISCAYXE   BAY— THE   FLORIDA   REEFS.  315 

Tai'i^on  abound  iu  Biscayiio  Bay,  but  have  not  at  this 
writing  been  taken  witli  the  rod.  The  kingfish  is  taken  by 
trolling  or  even  with  the  rod  just  outside  the  reefs.  Spanish 
mackerel,  sea-trout,  pomi^ano,  and  the  more  common  kinds  of 
salt-water  fish  abound  in  the  bay,  while  bass,  bream,  and  the 
usual  fresh-water  varieties  are  caught  in  the  various  streams. 

Water-fowl  are  for  the  most  part  very  shy,  as  they  are  shot 
at  all  the  way  down  the  coast  on  their  long  journey  from 
Labrador.  They  are  abundant,  however,  and  may  be  shot 
with  due  exercise  of  skill  and  patience.  There  are  plenty 
of  quail  in  the  woods  and  jirairies,  but  without  dogs  it  is 
wellnigh  impossible  to  find  birds  that  fall  in  the  scrub.  Deer 
in  considerable  numbers  find  pasturage  along  the  border  of 
the  prairies  and  everglades,  but  they  are  very  shy  and  are 
persistently  hunted  by  the  Indians. 

Yachtsmen  intending  to  winter  in  these  waters  should  not 
be  misled  by  any  preconceived  ideas  in  favor  of  keel-boats  ; 
such  craft  are  worse  than  useless.  The  sharpie,  with  not 
more  than  three  feet  draught  of  water,  is  the  only  boat  suit- 
able for  pleasure-cruising  about  the  Florida  Eeefs  and  adja- 
cent inland  waters. 


201.  The  Florida  Reefs,  Monroe  County. 

Between  Lat.  24°  32'  58"  and  25°  35'  25"  N.,  and  Long.  80'  4'  48"  and 
81°  48'  04"  W.    See  map  of  Monroe  County. 

Weekly  mail  and  passenger  schooners  from  Key  West  and  Biscarne  Bay  ^vill 
land  passengers  anywhere.  Rise  and  fall  of  tides,  where  given,  "is  from  the 
Coast  Survey  tables,  but  must  be  taken  with  allowance  for  changes  of  wind, 
which  often  makes  a  difference  of  several  feet. 

"Within  a  very  few  years  after  Columbus  landed  at  San 
Salvador,  the  Florida  Eeefs  began  to  levy  tribute  on  Euro- 
jjean  commerce.  So  intricate  were  their  channels,  and  so 
powerful  the  sweep  of  currents,  that  the  long  line  of  coral 
islands,  rocks,  and  reefs  soon  earned  the  name  of  "  The  Mar- 
tyrs." They  keep  up  their  re^nitation  fairly  well  to  this  day, 
notwithstanding  the  lighthouses  and  beacons  that  now 
mark  the  channel  from  Cape  Florida  to  the  Dry  Tortugas. 

The  general  formation  of  the  reefs,  as  shown  on  the  map, 
would  seem  at  a  superficial  glance  to  indicate  that  they  have 


316  TIIK    FJ.OKIDA   REKFS. 

been  formed  by  a  powerful  current  sweeijing  southward 
through  the  straits.  In  reality,  the  current  sets  in  the  op- 
posite direction,  at  a  rate  varying  from  two  to  five  miles  an 
hour,  but  it  is  none  the  less  responsiVile  for  the  formation  of 
the  reefs.  1'ho  warm  waters  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  and  of  its 
outflow,  the  Gulf  Stream,  are  highly  favorable  to  the  life  and 
work  of  the  "  coral  insect"  and  his  lime-making  co-laborers. 
Accordingly,  after  laying  the  foundation  of  the  Florida  Pen- 
insula, they  have  by  successive  stages  built  the  limestone 
dams  that  now  confine  Okeechobee  and  the  Everglades,  have 
gone  far  toward  completing  another  similar  concentric  dam, 
represented  at  present  by  the  long  line  of  wooded  keys, 
just  off  the  coast,  and  have  the  groundwork  of  still  another 
dyke  well  under  way  in  the  dangerous  reefs  that  now  fringe 
the  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  The  current  is  now  so  jiower- 
ful  that  the  present  line  of  reefs  is  probably  destined  to  be 
the  last  of  the  series. 

' '  Coral  Insect,"  by  the  way,  is  a  grievous  misnomer  ; 
for  this  tiny  creature  is  a  polyp,  and  the  lime  that  he  secretes 
forms  part  of  his  person — a  kind  of  skeleton,  as  it  were — 
which  he  outgrows  and  leaves  behind  him  in  the  shape  of 
solid  carbonate  of  lime.  His  popular  English  name,  how- 
ever, is  "  coral  insect,"  and  such  it  will  probably  remain  in 
spite  of  science,  which  classifies  him  as  radiate,  and  divides 
the  family  into  Asti-ceayi  Poriles,  and  3I(pandrmas  (differ- 
ent kinds  of  "brain  corals  "),  and  Madrepores  (branch  corals). 
All  these,  with  numerous  subdivisions,  are  found  alive  and 
busy  along  the  reef.  In  former  ages  they  were  at  work  far 
to  the  north  of  their  present  habitat,  but,  perhaps  largely  as 
the  result  of  their  own  labors,  the  conditions  changed,  the 
sea-sands  were  swept  in,  and  living  Florida  corals  are  now 
found  only  at  the  edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream. 

The  coral  maker  and  the  mangrove  are  close  allies  in  the 
work  of  continent  building.  The  first,  by  some  mystei-ious 
process,  extracts  lime  from  sea- water  and  covers  the  bed  of 
the  sea  with  a  forest  of  branches  in  which  all  sorts  of  sea 
Ijlants  and  creatures  become  entangled  and  die,  and  in  the 
course  of  time  are. entombed  in  the  solid  lime.     The  work- 


THE   FLORIDA   REEFS.  ol7 

er  stops  buildiug  only  when  he  reaches  the  sea-level  (low- 
water  mark),  aud  then  the  ocean  begins  to  pile  up  loose  ma- 
terial, broken  coral  and  the  like,  on  the  reef.  Some  day, 
when  the  wind  is  off  shore,  a  little  round,  cigar-like  stick, 
floating  vertically,  for  it  is  ballasted  at  one  end,  drifts  uioon 
the  shallows.  Its  weighted  end  finds  lodgement  as  the 
tide  falls.  Before  next  high-water,  it  is  fast  anchored,  the 
rootlets  growing  with  surprising  raiDidity,  and  penetrating 
the  crevices  of  the  rich  lime  rock  prepared  by  the  coral  mak- 
ers. Other  brown  cigar-like  sticks  follow  this  pioneer,  and 
in  a  few  years  the  bare  reef  has  become  a  mangrove  key, 
collecting  the  flotsam  and  jetsam  of  the  ocean  to  form  hab- 
itable land.  When  the  mangrove  can  no  longer  j'each  salt- 
water, it  dies,  decays,  adds  its  quota  to  the  rich  top-dressing 
of  the  coral,  and  then  the  wind  and  the  sea  bring  cocoa- 
nuts,  pine-cones,  acorns,  and  the  like,  and  in  a  generation 
or  two,  the  bare  coral  key  is  covered  with  a  thriving  ham- 
mock growth,  and  is  ready  for  human  habitation. 

Tlie  late  Professor  Agassiz  discredited  the  jiopular  theory 
that  the  formation  of  So'uthern  Florida  is  aided  by  slow  geo- 
logical upheavals.  His  strongest  argument  is  that  the  high- 
est levels  of  keys  and  main  land  are  practically  uniform, 
about  twelve  feet  above  the  sea-level,  closely  con-esiDonding 
to  the  height  of  hurricane  waves ;  whereas,  if  geological 
upheaval  had  been  at  work,  the  inland  reefs  would  be  per- 
ceptibly higher  than  those  of  more  recent  formation.  Such 
an  exceptionally  high  coral  ridge  as  the  Bluflf  Kocks,  ou 
Biscayne  Bay,  are  merely  local,  and  can  be  reasonably  ac- 
counted for  as  the  result  of  an  earthquake.  The  coral  keys 
are  always  highest  toward  the  sea,  sloping  away  gradually 
toward  the  mainland. 

Careful  observations  and  measiirements  on  submerged 
masonry  at  Fort  Taylor  (Key  West),  and  at  Fort  Jefferson 
(Tortugas),  indicate  that  solid  coral  forms  at  the  rate  of  about 
six  inches  in  a  century.  This  rate,  however,  may  be  safely 
doubled  in  the  case  of  exposed  reefs,  to  allow  for  accumula- 
tions. As  the  present  outer  reef  averages  seventy  feet  in 
height,  it  should  have  been  about  7,000  years  in  building, 
and  each  of   tlie  interior  reefs,  seven  of  which  have  been 


;^18  THE   FLORIDA    REKFS. 

traced  between  the  shore  bluffs  and  Lake  Okeechobee,  was 
probably  nearly  finished  not  far  from  the  time  when  its  neai*- 
est  outer  neighbor  was  begun.  The  rock  of  the  oldest  reefs 
that  have  been  found  is  identical  with  the  most  recent,  and 
on  the  above  basis  of  calculation  the  ridge  that  encircles 
Okeechobee  must  have  been  begun  at  least  70,000  years  ago, 
and  the  microscope  jn-oves  that  the  builders  and  their  meth- 
ods were  precisely  the  same  then  as  now. 

The  animal  life  of  the  keys  and  adjacent  waters  is  wonder- 
fully pi'olific  and  interesting.  Fish  of  all  kinds  abound, 
from  the  great  Jewfish,  bonita,  kingfish,  and  the  like,  down 
to  the  delicate  and  beautiful  angel-fish,  and  many-colored 
dwellers  among  the  mangrove  roots.  Crustaceans  are  found 
in  great  variety,  inchiding  "  crayfish "  as  large  as  lobsters, 
but  without  the  formidable  "  nipj^ers."  They  are  very 
abundant,  and  are  excellent  for  the  table.  Sea-turtle  are 
taken  in  large  numbers  ;  all  kinds  of  water-fowl  nest  among 
the  mangroves,  and  large  game,  bears,  wild-cats,  cougars, 
deer,  and  turkeys  haunt  the  wooded  keys. 

There  is  deep,  navigable  water  between  the  outer  reef  and 
the  keys,  and  even  to  some  extent  between  the  keys  and 
the  mainland.  Pilots,  familiar  with  the  ground  can  carry 
vessels  of  moderate  draft  through  the  inside  j^assage,  but 
for  strangers  or  amateurs  the  only  enjoyment  lies  in  light- 
draft  sharpies  or  similar  craft,  which  can  make  a  harbor  be- 
hind almost  any  of  the  keys  in  heavy  weather,  or  if  stranded 
on  a  mud-flat  by  a  change  of  wind,  will  rest  comfortably  on 
an  even  keel  until  floated  off.  These  intricate  channels  and 
safe  harbors  among  lofty  mangroves  were  well  known  to  the 
pirates  and  freebooters  of  the  sixteenth,  seventeenth,  and 
even  of  the  early  nineteenth  centuries.  It  is  iDOi:)x;larly  sxip- 
posed  that  their  successors,  the  fishermen,  spongers,  and 
wreckers  of  to-day  are  pirates  wjien  they  have  the  chance, 
but  in  reality,  while  there  are  desperate  characters  among 
them,  they  are  upon  the  whole  a  benefit  to  commerce,  often 
saving  the  cargoes  of  stranded  ships,  and  sometimes  even 
floating  off  the  vessels  themselves.  No  doubt  they  consider 
a  wreck  strictly  from  a  business  point  of  view,  and  claim  full 
salvage,   but  they  stand  in  wholesome  fear  of  the  revenue 


THE    FLORIDA   REEFS.  319 

service  and  are  generally  careful  not  to  transgress  their  law- 
ful rights. 

Virginia  Key  and  Key  Discayne  separate  Biscayne  Bay 
from  the  ocean.  They  are  covered  -with  sea-sand,  are  over- 
grown with  vegetation,  and  have  lost  ilieir  true  character  as 
coral  keys.  The  soutiiern  end  of  Key  Biscayne  is  Cajjo 
Florida.  The  abandoned  lighthouse  tower  and  a  fine  clumx? 
of  cocoa-palms  serve  as  landmarks  (see  Boute  160). 

Soldier  Key,  the  northernmost  of  the  true  reef  keys,  is  4 
miles  due  west  from  Fowey  Rocks  Light.  On  it  are  build- 
ings erected  for  the  workmen  who  built  the  light-tower,  now 
turned  over  to  the  Fish  Commission  and  in  charge  of  Com- 
modore Ralph  Munro,  of  the  Biscayne  Bay  Yacht  Club,  who 
is  investigating  the  subject  of  sponge-culture  with  a  view  to 
increasing  the  i^roduction. 

Fowey  Hacks  Ligld  was  established  in  1878  to  take  the 
l^lace  of  the  discontinued  light  on  Cape  Florida.  It  stands 
in  5  feet  of  water  on  the  northernmost  knob  of  the  Florida 
Reef.     Lat.  25°  35'  25"  N.,  Long.  80°  05'  41"  W. 

Ragged  Keys. — Here  begins  the  almost  continuous  line  of 
more  or  less  habitable  islands  that  ends  with  Key  West. 
The  northernmost  are  at  present  insignificant  clumps  of 
young  mangroves. 

Sands  Key  is  1^  mile  long,  and  three-fourths  of  a  mile  at 
its  widest,  counting  a  belt  of  mangroves. 

EllioWs  Key  is  nearly  8  miles  long  and  one-half  mile  wide. 
There  are  several  houses  and  large  plantations  of  pineapples, 
also  fishing  and  sjwnging  stations.  The  greater  part  of  the 
island  is  covered  with  a  dense  hammock,  and  the  surface  is 
rough  and  rocky,  with  a  sand  beach  on  the  seaward  side. 
On  the  bay  side  there  is  a  wharf  or  landing  stage  with  about 
4  feet  of  water  at  low  tide,  and  on  the  ocean  side  a  similar 
landing  with  6  feet  of  water. 

Old  Rhodes  Key  is  tlie  largest  of  a  grouj)  of  islands  be- 
tween Elliott's  Key  and  Key  Largo.  Among  them  Ciesar's 
Creek  makes  through  into  Cards  Sound — the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  Biscayne  Bay — a  shallow  expanse  with  scattered 
keys,  and  not  more  than  3  or  4  feet  of  water  at  low  tide. 

Key  Largo,  as  its  name  implies,  is  the  largest  of  the  reef 


32U  THK   FliOKIDA   KEKFS. 

keys,  25  miles  long  and  of  uudetermined  width.  The  coast 
survey  chait  connects  it  with  the  mainland,  but  canoes  and 
small  craft  can  work  their  way  through  from  Biscayne  Bay 
and  Cards  Sound  into  Barnes  Sound  and  the  Bay  of  Florida. 
The  passages  are  likely  at  any  time  to  be  overgrown  by  man- 
groves, since  inhabitants  are  few  and  it  is  to  no  one's  suffi- 
cient interest  to  keep  a  passage  open. 

Turtle  Harbor. — Two  beacons  mark  the  entrance  to  this 
seemingly  exposed,  but  really  safe  anchorage.  The  sea- 
ward beacon  on  Turtle  Reef  bears  4f  nautical  miles  N.  \  W. 
from  Carysfort  Reef  Light.  From  Turtle  Reef  the  shore- 
ward beacon  bears  W.  ^  N.  distant  one  mile.  The  harbor  it- 
self is5i  miles  long,  and  more  than  a  mile  wide,  with  4i  to  4 
fathoms  of  water,  and  good  holding  ground  almost  any- 
where. The  only  obstacle  to  entering  is  an  island-like  reef 
about  f  of  a  mile  within  the  beacons.  The  wider  channel 
is  to  the  eastward  of  this  reef,  which  is  well  buoyed  and 
plainly  visible  in  clear  weather.  The  harbor  is  effectually 
sheltered  by  the  outlying  reefs  from  all  save  the  most  violent 
hurricanes,  which  are  of  rare  occurrence  under  such  condi- 
tions as  would  render  this  anchorage  unsafe. 

Carysfort  Reef  Light  is  a  pyramidal  iron  structure,  painted 
dark  brown,  with  a  white  lantern  106  feet  above  the  sea. 
It  shows  a  white  flash  every  30  seconds,  visible  IG  nautical 
miles  at  sea.  The  light  was  established  in  1852.  It  stands 
.on  a  pile  foundation  close  to  the  seaward  edge  of  the  reef, 
in  Lat.  25°  13'  18  "  N.,  Long.  80°  12'  34"  W.  This  tower  was 
seized  by  the  Secessionists  in  1861,  and  the  light  for  a  time 
discontinued. 

The  Matecombe  Keys,  Upper  and  Lower,  are  both  inhabited, 
and  there  are  abundant  natural  wells  on  the  upper  or  east- 
ern key.  These  have  been  used  by  mariners  time  out  of 
mind,  and  before  that  by  the  Indians.  Both  these  islands 
were  once,  and  are  still  to  some  extent,  covered  with  a  fine 
hammock  growth,  showing  that  they  have  been  longer  above 
water  than  their  neighbors. 

Indian  Key. — A  small  island  just  off  the  jjassage  between 
Upper  and  Lower  Matecombe  Keys.  It  is  conspicuous  owing 
to  a  number  of  large  warehouses  and  other  buildina:s  that  can 


THE  FLORIDA  REEFS.  321 

be  seen  from  a  considerable  distance.  In  the  early  days  the 
crew  of  a  French  ship  that  was  wrecked  near  by,  landed  on  the 
key  and  were  massacred  by  the  Caloosa  Indians.  Owing  to 
its  position,  midway  between  Cape  Florida  and  Key  "West, 
it  became  important  as  a  wrecking  station.  A  Mr.  Hous- 
man  established  a  store,  built  a  hotel  as  early  as  1837,  and 
the  place  became  quite  a  resort  for  invalids.  The  Gov- 
ernment, too,  used  it  as  a  depot  during  the  Seminole  wars, 
but  never  kept  a  guard  there,  as  the  neighboring  Indians 
were  considered  friendly.  During  the  night  of  August  7, 
1840,  however,  a  band  of  Spanish  Indians  made  a  descent 
upon  the  little  settlement.  Among  the  residents  was  Dr. 
Ferine,  a  distinguished  naturalist  of  the  time,  stationed  here 
for  jjurposes  of  scientific  observation.  Mrs.  Ferine  and  her 
three  children  took  refuge  in  a  tidal  bath-room  that  had 
been  excavated  under  the  house,  but  the  doctor  after  thias 
concealing  his  family  was  murdered  by  the  savages,  and  the 
house  was  burned  with  the  valuable  library  and  the  owner's 
manuscripts.  The  mother  and  children  made  their  escape 
by  breaking  out  through  the  barred  sluiceway  and  succeed- 
ed in  reaching  a  schooner  anchored  oif  shore.  The  Indi- 
ans did  not  seem  to  be  bent  upon  a  general  massacre,  for 
they  sufitered  others  to  escape,  and  the  arrival  of  the  U.  S. 
schooner  Flirt  put  an  end  to  further  depredations. 

Long  Key,  3  miles  S.W.  from  Lower  Matecumbe,  is  the 
property  of  Mr.  Thomas  A.  Hine,  of  New  York.  It  is  about  3 
miles  long,  and  is  largely  occupied  by  cocoa-palms  in  bear- 
ing. Evidence  of  occupation  by  long-forgotten  Europeans 
is  found  in  stone  walls  and  other  relics  of  civilized  handi- 
work. 

Alligator  Reef  Light  bears  E.S.E.  from  Indian  Key,  dis- 
tant 4^  miles.  It  stands  in  Lat.  24''  51'  N.,  Long.  80°  37'  W. 
The  light  is  visible  18  nautical  miles  at  sea,  showing  red  and 
white  flashes  (every  third  flash  red),  at  intervals  of  5  seconds, 
from  a  height  of  143  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The  mean 
rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  at  this  point  is  1  foot  8  inches.  The 
tower  is  a  white  skeleton  frame-work  on  a  lilack  pile  founda- 
tion in  5  feet  of  water,  and  w'ithin  200  yards  of  deep  sound- 
ings.    Established  in  1873. 


322  THE  FLORIDA  REEFS. 

Sombrero  Key  is  on  the  line  of  the  outer  reef,  and  ratlior 
more  advanced  in  formation  than  most  of  its  fellows.  The 
present  iron  light-tower  was  erected  here  in  1857;  was 
seized  and  forcibly  discontinued  by  the  Confederates  in 
18C1,  and  re-established,  with  an  armed  guard  in  charge,  in 
18G3.  It  stands  in  Lat.  24°  37'  N  ,  Long.  81°  06'  W.,  show- 
ing a  fixed  white  light  at  a  height  of  141  feet,  visible  18  nau- 
tical miles  at  sea. 

The  VnccKs  Kei/s  bear  nearly  due  north  from  Sombrero, 
the  nearest  distant  five  miles.  They  are  a  dozen  or  more  in 
number,  of  all  shapes  and  sizes,  many  of  them  well  wooded 
with  pine  and  liauiuiock  growths.  The  group  is  15  miles 
long,  with  shallow  intersecting  channels. 

Biihin  Honda  Harbor,  between  a  key  .of  that  name  and  the 
Summerlaud  Keys,  is  10  nautical  miles  W.  by  Iv.  from  Som- 
brero Light.  There  is  fairly  good  holding  ground  and  shel- 
ter here  for  vessels  drawing  under  18  feet.  Smaller  vessels 
can  run  in  through  the  jjass,  and  find  safe  harbor  behind  the 
keys.  Another  similar  anchorage  is  Newfound  Harbor,  9 
miles  west  of  Bahia  Honda. 

Pine  Keys. — Ten  miles  west  of  Sombrero  the  bearing  of 
the  keys  changes.  Instead  of  lying  parallel  with  the  axis  of 
the  Gulf  Stream  they  are  almost  at  right  angles  to  it.  The 
larger  members  of  the  group  are  some  8  miles  long.  For 
the  most  part  they  are  uninhabited,  densely  wooded,  and 
well  stocked  with  game.  The  group  includes  a  number  of 
islands,  large  and  small,  too  many  to  be  named  here,  and 
marks  the  western  limit  of  the  Bay  of  Florida,  lying  between 
Cape  Sable  and  the  Keys.  The  Bay  of  Florida  is  shallow, 
dotted  with  uncharted  reefs  and  keys,  and  liable  to  turn  un- 
expectedly into  an  extensive  mud-flat  with  a  change  of  wind. 
A  few  thousand  years,  more  or  less,  will,  no  doubt,  see  it 
converted  into  everglades. 

American  Shoal  Light,  established  in  1880,  is  a  brown  pyra- 
midal iron  towei",  115^  feet  high  over  all,  showing  a  white 
flash  every  5  seconds,  visible  16^  nautical  miles  at  sea.  Its 
position  is  Lat.  24"  31'  K,  Long.  81°  31'  W. 

Sand  Key  Light  shows  white,  varied  by  white  flashes.  It 
is  7i  uiiles  nearly  S.W.  from  Key  West  light.     The  tower  is 


THE   FLORIDA  REEF8-KEY   WEST.  323 

121  feet  over  all,  a  pvramidal  iron  stnactnre,  painted  brown. 
Lat.  2i°  27'  10"  X.,  Long.  81°  52'  40"  W. 


202.  Key  West,  Mouroe  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1890,  1T,"20. 

Lat.  24°  32'  58"  N.,  Long.  81°  48'  4"  more  or  less,  according  to  wind. 
Mean  rise  and  fall  of  tide,  1  foot  3  inches,  W. 

Hotels. — Russell  House,  $4  a  day. — Duval  House,  Restaurant  and  rooms. 
Carriages,  $1  an  hour. 

Steamers,  etc.— Jlallory  line  to  New  York,  Plant  Steamship  Co.  to  Havana 
and  Tampa,  Morgan  line  to  Puuta  Gorda  and  New  Orleans. 

Cm/0  Hueso  (Bone  Island)  was  the  Spanish  name,  easily 
translated  into  Key^West  by  English  tongues.  Tradition 
has  it  that  the  native  tribes  inhabiting  the  keys  were  gradu- 
ally driven  frona  one  to  another  by  the  more  powerful  Caloo- 
sas  from  the  neighboring  mainland,  until  at  last  they  were 
nearly  exterminated  in  a  final  battle  on  Key  West,  and  the 
few  survivors  escaped  to  Cuba.  The  abundance  of  human 
bones  found  when  the  island  was  first  discovered  suggested 
its  name  and  gave  color  to  the  story.  Relics  of  EuroiDean 
occupation  are  found  on  this,  as  well  as  on  some  few  of  the 
neighboring  keys — stone  walls,  remains  of  earthworks  and 
the  like,  with  indications  that  the  island  was  well  known  to 
the  pirates  who  frequented  these  waters  during  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  and  had  not  wholly  disappeared  when  Flor- 
ida passed  into  the  possession  of  the  United  States. 

The  island  was  granted  to  one  Juan  P.  Salas  by  the  Span- 
ish crown,  in  recognition  of  military  services  and,  the  grant 
having  been  confirmed  by  the  United  States,  it  finally  be- 
came the  property  of  John  Simonton,  of  IMobile,  on  payment 
of  $2,000.  During  the  Seminole  war  (1835-184:2)  there  were 
occasional  alarms,  but  the  frequent  presence  of  Government 
vessels  and  the  use  of  the  port  as  a  supply  station  guaran- 
teed it  against  attack.  In  181:6  the  island  was  swept  by  a  ter- 
rible hurricane,  accompanied  by  an  extraordinarily  high  tide, 
the  sea  rising  some  ten  feet  above  its  usual  level.  The  war 
with  Mexico  (1816-181:8)  brought  Key  West  still  more  into 
prominence  as  an  important  military  and  naval  station,  and 


324  KEY   WEST. 

permanent  fortifications  and  other  works  were  begun  which 
largely  increased  the  prosperity  of  the  place.  When  Flor- 
ida seceded  from  the  Union  in  1861,  the  local  Secessionists 
attempted  to  seize  the  place  on  behalf  of  the  Confederacy, 
Major,  afterward  General  William  H.  French,  of  the  First 
Artillery,  was  in  command  at  Fort  Taylor.  The  citizens 
were  by  no  means  nuauimous  in  their  sentiments,  and  Major 
French,  who  had  a  few  regulars  under  him,  organized  the 
workmen  employed  on  the  fort,  accepted  the  services  of  a 
company  of  citizen  volunteers,  and  defied  the  Secessionists 
until  reinforcements  arrived.  Throughout  the  Civil  War 
Key  West  was  an  important  military  and  naval  station.  Ex- 
tensive fortifications  were  begun  in  addition  to  those  al- 
ready under  way  at  Fort  Taylor,  but  nojie  of  them  were  ever 
completed. 

Until  1869  the  local  population  was  insignificant,  but  the 
attempted  revolution  in  Cuba  caused  a  migration  that  soon 
made  it  a  busy  manufacturing  place.  In  March,  1886,  the 
city  was  nearly  swept  away  by  a  fire  that  lasted  two  days  and 
destroyed  property  to  the  value  of  near  two  millions. 

The  chief  commercial  interests  of  Key  West  are  in  cigars, 
fisheries,  turtles,  and  sponges.  The  cigar-making  business 
dates  back  to  1831,  but  it  made  slow  jw'ogress  until  1872, 
when  the  influx  of  Cuban  refugees  stimulated  the  i:)roduction 
to  an  enormous  extent,  and  at  present  more  than  §3,000,000 
are  annually  paid  out  to  cigar-makers.  About  6,000  persons 
are  employed  in  the  manufacture,  at  w'ages  ranging  from  83 
a  week  for  children  to  $60  a  week  for  experts.  A  visit  to 
any  of  the  large  factories  when  running  full  time  is  well 
worth  the  trouble,  though  not  precisely  appetizing  to  cigar- 
smokers  of  fastidious  taste.  Sponges  of  fine  quality  are 
taken  all  along  the  reefs,  and  far  up  the  Gulf  coast,  Key 
West  being  the  central  market  and  ship2>iug  point.  A  large 
fleet  of  spongers,  mostly  small  schooners,  is  constantly  com- 
ing and  going.  The  sponges  can  be  taken  only  in  calm 
weather.  They  are  detached  from  the  rocky  bottom  with  a 
fork  at  a  depth  of  5  feet  to  20  feet,  and  semi-cured  before 
packing  for  shipment.  The  appearance  of  the  fresh  sponge, 
just  from  its  native  element,  is  a  surprise  to  the  Northern 


KEY  WEST.  S'2o 

visitor.  The  spouge  business  of  Key  West  amounts  to 
nearly  one  million  dollars  a  year.  It  is  interesting  to  visit 
any  of  the  several  sponge  lofts  in  the  city,  as  well  as  to  be 
present  in  the  market  and  witness  the  selling  at  auction  of 
fish,  turtle,  sponges,  cocoanuts,  and  fruit.  The  market  hours 
can  be  learned  at  the  hotel,  failing  the  criers  who  are  some- 
times sent  out  to  announce  a  sale. 

The  island  of  Key  West  (see  map  of  Monroe  County, 
page  64)  is  4i  miles  long  and  1  mile  wide.  It  consists 
wholly  of  coralline  rock,  covered  with  soil  resulting  from  the 
decay  of  vegetable  and  marine  growth.  The  climate  ap- 
proaches more  closely  that  of  the  tropics  than  any  other 
part  of  the  United  States.  Frost  is  unknown,  and  while 
the  heat  in  summer  rarely  exceeds  90°,  the  lowest  recorded 
temperature  is  41°,  observed  in  1855,  before  the  establish- 
ment of  the  U.  S.  Signal  Service. 

The  objects  of  interest  within  the  city  and  on  the  island 
are  Fort  Taylor  with  its  half-ruined  outworks.  A  permit 
is  necessary,  which  can  be  obtained  from  the  sergeant  in 
charge,  whose  quarters  are  in  a  small  house  near  the  head 
of  the  foot-bridge  that  leads  to  the  fort.  From  the  parapet 
a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  neighboring  keys,  and  on  a  clear 
day  the  colors  reflected  from  the  submerged  reefs  and  bars 
are  very  beautiful.  Fort  Taylor,  begun  in  1846,  is  a  massive 
bastioned  structure,  built  partly  of  coral  quarried  on  the 
reef  with  walls  of  brick  brought  from  the  North.  It  was 
never  actually  finished,  though  fully  garrisoned  during  the 
Civil  War,  and  rendered  capable  of  efficient  defence  in  case 
of  need.  A  fee,  of  not  less  than  half  a  dollar,  should  be 
given  to  the  sergeant — more  in  case  of  a  large  party.  Mid- 
way of  the  seaward  shore  of  the  island,  and  at  its  eastern 
end,  are  two  martello  towers,  erected  in  1846  for  defensive 
purposes,  but  now  fallen  to  ruin,  and  sometimes  used  for 
stabling  cattle  and  the  like. 

The  Custom  House,  the  Masonic  Temple,  San  Carlos  Hall, 
the  Convent,  the  Government  stores  and  wharves,  and  the 
old  baiTacks  are  among  the  principal  buildings.  Tramways 
run  through  the  principal  streets,  with  cars  generally  at  10 
minute  intervals.     Everywhere  along  the  streets,  and  in  the 


326  KEY   WEST. 

gardens  are  bananas,  palms,  pa\\7)aws,  and  scores  of  other 
tropical  growths.  Notable  among  these  is  the  banyan-tree 
at  the  old  U.  S.  barracks,  which  may  be  reached  by  follow- 
ing the  water-front  to  the  eastward  about  |  of  a  mile  from 
the  hotel.  This  is  the  only  tree  of  the  species  growing  out 
of  doors  in  the  United  States.  Very  like  it,  however,  is  the 
Avild  fig,  or  native  rubber-tree,  common  on  all  the  keys  and  in 
the  southern  part  of  the  peninsula.  Three  squares  south 
of  Eussell  House  are  some  curious  palms,  well  worth  a  vi.sit. 
In  one  case  a  date  palm  and  a  wild  fig  have  taken  root  in 
the  same  crevice,  the  fig  entwining  the  palm  in  a  network 
of  vine-like  growth.  Both  trees  when  last  seen  were  vigor- 
ous, and  neither  showed  signs  of  yielding  to  the  other. 
Near  by  is  another  similar  distorted  growth,  the  palm  bent 
far  out  of  its  natural  shape  by  the  contortions  of  the  fig. 

There  are  good  roads  the  length  of  the  island,  but  noth- 
ing of  especial  interest  beyond  the  always  changing  as2:>ects 
of  sea  and  sky. 

South  Beach,  the  bathing-place  of  Key  "West,  is  easily 
reached  by  tramway  or  on  foot,  passing  through  the  Cuban 
quarter  of  the  town.  It  is  not  a  yery  attractive  bathing 
beach,  nor  are  the  bathing  -  houses  what  they  should  be. 
A  better  plan  is  to  hire  a  boat  and  find  some  retired  jslace 
beyond  the  city  limits. 

There  is  excellent  water-fowl  shooting  on  the  neighboring 
keys,  and  on  some  of  them  deer  are  still  to  be  found,  while  a 
trip  to  the  mainland,  where  all  sorts  of  game  abounds,  may 
be  accomplished  by  any  one  who  can  devote  a  few  days  to 
the  expedition.  The  countless  mangrove  islands  in  the  vi- 
cinity aiford  an  endless  field  of  exploration,  and  very  good 
sport  may  be  had  with  a  fish-spear,  grains,  or  net  among 
the  mangrove  roots,  where  all  kinds  of  marine  creatures 
seek  a  refuge.  With  a  little  practice  the  spearsman  can 
walk  upon  the  projecting  roots,  and  watch  for  an  opportunity 
to  strike  his  game  in  the  shoal  water  below.  Some  of  the 
creatures  that  haunt  these  retreats  should  be  handled  cau- 
tiously if  captured,  as  they  bite  very  savagely  and  make 
troublesome  wounds. 

Northwest  Passage  Light. — This  marks  the  northern  ex- 


KEY  west:  327 

tremity  of  the  broad  shoal  lying  west  of  the  channel.  It  is 
a  fixed  white  light  throwing  a  red  sector  N.N.W.  over  the 
best  water  on  the  bar.  The  light  is  on  a  red  and  wliite 
screw-pile  structure,  50  feet  high,  the  light  visible  12|  nau- 
tical miles.  Through  this  channel  pass  nearly  all  vessels 
bound  North  and  South  to  and  from  Europe,  the  West 
Indies,  and  the  Gulf  ports. 

The  Marquesas  Growp  lies  17  nautical  miles  west  from 
Key  West.  Northwest  Channel  and  Boca  Grande  intervene, 
with  extensive  shoals  between  them,  necessitating  a  wide 
detour.  The  main  key  is  horseshoe  shaped  with  the  con- 
vex side  toward  the  northeast.  The  open  side  is  well-nigh 
closed  with  small  islands  and  shoals.  Within  the  curve  is 
a  shallow  lagoon,  i^racticable  for  boats  drawing  5  feet.  The 
keys  are  low,  almost  awash  at  high  tide,  and  largely  cov- 
ered with  mangroves.  There  is  nothing  of  especial  interest 
aside  from  the  teeming  life  of  air  and  sea.  No  fresh  water 
is  found  on  the  Marquesas. 

Rebecca  Shoal  is  due  west  from  Marquesas,  about  midway 
between  that  group  and  the  Dry  Tortugas.  A  light  was  es- 
tablished there  in  18S6,  showing  a  red  and  white  flash  from 
a  lantern  surmounting  a  square  dwelling  67  feet  high.  It  is 
visible  13|  nautical  miles.     • 

The  Dry  Tortugas,  so  called  because  of  the  abundance  of 
sea-turtles  and  the  dearth  of  fresh  water,  are  54  nautical 
miles  nearly  due  west  from  Key  West.  The  light  on  Log- 
ger-Head Key,  the  most  westerly  of  the  group,  is  in  Lat. 
24°  38'  N.,  Long.  82°  55'  42"  W.,  a  fixed  white  light,  visible 
18^  nautical  miles  at  sea.  It  was  established  in  1858,  while 
the  neighboring  fort  was  under  construction.  It  is  a  conical 
brick  tower,  the  upper  half  black,  the  lower  half  white,  155 
feet  high  to  the  lantern.  A  fixed  white  light  is  shown  on 
the  S.E.  bastion  of  the  fort,  at  a  height  of  65  feet  above  the 
sea.     It  is  visible  13*  nautical  miles. 

By  far  the  most  conspicuous  object  to  the  approaching 
voyager  is  Fort  Jefferson,  a  massive  fortification,  built  of 
brick,  with  the  native  coral  rock  for  foundation.  It  was  begun 
in  1846,  and  practically  finished  by  the  beginning  of  the  Civil 
War,  when  it  was  armed,  garrisoned,  and  largely  used  as  a 


3i3S  KEY    WEST. 

military  prison.  It  is  in  shape  a  great  pentagon,  with  lofty 
casemated  walls,  enclosing  a  palm-shaded  parade-ground. 
The  broad  moat  is  a  veritable  aquarium  for  its  variety  of 
marine  life,  sometimes  including  sharks  and  domesticated 
pelicans.  At  present  the  whole  structure  is  falling  into  de- 
cay, because  the  Government  has  no  use  for  it.  The  only 
inhabitants  of  the  grouji  are  the  army  sergeant  in  charge, 
and  the  light-keepers  on  Logger-Head  Key.  There  is  a  fine 
sheltered  anchorage,  with  6  and  7  fathoms  of  wate^  under 
the  guns  of  the  fort,  but  it  is  visited  only  by  spongers,  fish- 
ermen, and  wreckers,  and  by  occasional  Government  supply- 
ships. 

The  conformation  of  the  group  of  keys  is  almost  identical 
with  that  of  tha  Marquesas,  though  as  it  is  not  so  far  ad- 
vanced, the  horseshoe  conformation  is  not  yet  so  apparent. 
A  \'isit  to  this  remote  coral  reef,  with  its  crumbling  fortress 
and  romantic  though  lonely  surroundings,  is  most  interest- 
ing. With  a  good  sailing  breeze,  the  voyage  from  Key  West 
may  be  accomplished  in  six  or  eight  hours,  and  a  week  may 
be  passed  very  enjoyably  in  exploring  the  neighboring  reefs. 


West  Florida. 

The  Suwannee  River  is  the  natural  dividing  line  between 
the  western  and  middle  section  of  the  State.  It  includes 
l^erhaps  the  most  diversified  and  picturesque  country  in 
Florida — high  rolling  hills,  well  wooded,  and  rising,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Tallahassee,  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  300  feet. 
Throughout  this  hill  country  are  good  roads,  suitable  for 
riding,  driving,  or  walking.  Frequent  lakes  and  wate]-- 
courses  add  to  the  beanty  of  the  landscape,  and  some  of  the 
most  remarkable  si)rings  and  wells  in  the  world  are  formed 
in  the  limestone  and  sandstone  strata  that  underlie  the 
whole  country.  A  belt  of  low  pine-land  borders  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  with  occasional  swamps  and  savannas  of  great 
extent,  through  which  many  navigable  streams  find  their 
way  into  the  great  sheltered  bays  and  sounds  that  line  the 
coast.  Several  fine  harbors  exist,  as  at  Pensacola,  St. 
Andrews'  Bay,  St.  Joseph's  Bay,  Appalachicola,  and  Dog 
Island.  In  general,  the  coast  is  very  sparsely  inliabited, 
the  bulk  of  the  population  lying  along  the  line  of  the  rail- 
road which  traverses  the  State  fmm  Fernandina  and  Jack- 
sonville to  Pensacola.  (See  State  and  County  Maps.)  Along 
this  line  are  the  best  agricultural  lands,  the  leading  products 
being  tobacco,  long  staple  cotton,  grapes,  pears,  and  vege- 
tables. Oranges,  lemons,  and  figs  thrive  under  proper  care, 
but  not  so  well  as  in  more  southern  latitudes.  Millions  of 
feet  of  lumber  are  annually  cut  along  the  rivers,  and  floated 
down  to  tide-water,  where  the  logs  are  made  up  into  rafts 
and  towed  to  Pensacola  for  shipment  abroad.  Other  millions 
are  stopi3ed  at  the  railroad  crossings  and  used  at  home. 

This  section  of  Florida  has  not  been  so  much  a  resort  for 
Northern  sportsmen  as  has  the  peninsiila  and  its  coasts,  and 
the  game  has  not  been  so  mercilessly  hunted.  From  any  of 
the  railway  stations  it  is  easy  to  reach  unfrequented  hunting- 
grounds,  either  by  boat  or  by  wagon  road.  Along  the  bays 
and  inlets  the  shooting  and  fishing  are  of  the  best. 

As  compared  with  that  of  South  Florida,  the  climate  is 


330  WESr    FLORIDA— JACKSONVILLE. 

somewhat  cooler.  The  average  temperatures,  as  reported 
by  tlie  Weather  Bureau  at  Pensacola,  are  as  follows  :  Spring, 
67.9;  summer,  80.3;  autumn,  G9.5 ;  winter,  5G.0.  The 
average  rainfall  for  the  same  period  was  :  Spring,  14.34: 
inches;  summer,  22.53  inches;  autumn,  15.52  inches;  win- 
ter, 14.92  inches.  The  earliest  killing  frost  reported  at  the 
same  station  was  November  IG,  1880,  and  the  earliest  frosts 
in  1879,  1883,  and  1881  were,  respectively,  on  December 
26th,  16th,  and  19th.  A  comparative  table  of  clear  and  fair 
days  in  monthly  averages  will  be  found  elsewhere. 


210.    Jacksonville  to  River  Junction. 

By  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula  Ey.  (foot  of  Hogan  St.)  to  River  Junction, 
2^3  miles.  Running  time,  8  h.  35  min.  For  stations,  distances,  and  connections 
in  deta'.I,  see  maps  and  context  of  tlie  following  named  counties,  which  are 
alphabetically  arranged  from  page  1  to  102  :  Duval,  Baker,  Columbia,  Suwannee, 
Madison,  Jefferson,  Leon,  Gadsden.  If  it  is  desired  to  break  the  journey,  good 
hotels  will  be  found  at  Lake  City,  Moiiticello,  Lloyd,  TaUahxssei,  or  Qiun:ey. 

The  Hue  of  the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula  is  nearly  east 
and  west,  Jacksonville,  Tallahassee,  and  Pensacola  being 
so  nearly  in  the  same  latitude  that  the  difference  is  insig- 
nificant. The  country  is  open  and  flat  for  some  distance 
after  leaving  the  outskirts  of  Jacksonville. 

At  Miu-ieltit,  in  February,  1861,  a  Confederate  force  under 
General  Finnegan  made  a  stand  on  its  retreat  from  Jackson- 
ville, but  was  driven  out  by  the  Federals. 

Baldicin. — Crossing  of  the  F.  C.  &  P.  Southern  Division, 
north  to  Fernandina,  south  to  Ocala,  Tampa,  Cedar  Key, 
etc.  This  point  was  fortified  by  both  sides,  according  to  the 
changing  fortunes  of  the  Ci^■il  War.  The  remains  of  earth- 
works can  still  be  seen  along  the  railroad  near  the  station. 
Three  miles  west  of  Baldwin  is  the  Duval-Baker  county  line, 
near  Deer  Creek,  a  small  stream,  tributary  to  the  St.  Mary's 
River. 

Macdenny.  (See  Route  211.) — A  short  distance  west  of  the 
station  the  ti-ain  crosses  the  South  Prong  of  St.  Mary's  River, 
a  fine  rapid  stream  of  coffee-colored  water,  flowing  north- 
ward. On  the  east  bank  the  Federal  troops  made  a  stand 
after  their  defeat  at  Olustee. 


JACKSONVILLE   TO   RIVER  JUNCTION.  331 

Olitfiiee,  the  scene  of  a  severe  fight  during  the  Civil  War. 
(See  Route  212.)  Two  miles  west  of  the  station  the  line  crosses 
into  Columbia  County.     (See  map,  page  17.) 

Lake  Citif,  the  county  seat,  almost  hidden  in  fruit  and  sliade 
trees,  lies  just  south  of  the  station.  (See  Route  213.)  Here 
is  the  crossing  of  the  Georgia  Southern  k  Floiida  RpiJroad, 
north  to  Macon,  Ga.,  south,  to  Palatka. 

Welborn  is  the  first  station  in  Suwannee  County — the  boun- 
dary crossing  the  track  a  short  distance  east  of  the  station. 
(See  map,  page  90.)  Live  Oak',  the  county  seat,  is  a  busy, 
thriving  place  at  the  junction  of  the  Savannah,  Florida  & 
Western  Ry. 

At  Columbus  the  railroad  crosses  the  Suwannee  River  flow- 
ing south  with  a  swift,  strong  current,  between  steep  rocky 
banks.  (See  Route  111.)  EllavUle,  on  the  west  bank,  is  in 
Madison  County.  (See  map,  page  57.)  The  river  is  navigable 
to  this  point  at  high  water,  but  the  usual  steamboat  lauding 
is  at  Hudson,  12  miles  below. 

West  of  the  river  the  country  changes  its  character  gradu- 
ally, rising  to  hills  that  show  a  reddish  soil  where  the  fresh 
earth  is  exposed.  Mudison,  the  county  seat,  is  pleasantly 
situated  among  tine  forest  trees.  (See  Route  215.)  Six  miles 
*  west  of  Greenville  and  three  miles  east  of  AuciUa,  the  line 
crosses  the  Ocilla  or  Aucilla  River,  a  considerable  stream, 
rising  in  Georgia  in  two  branches,  or  prongs,  which  unite 
four  miles  above  the  railroad  crossing,  and  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  Gulf.  The  stream  is  navigable  for  canoes, 
except  where  it  breaks  into  rapids  and  where  it  becomes 
subterranean  at  Natural  Bridge,  12  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Interesting  geological  strata  are  exposed  in  the  jDrecipitous 
banks  near  the  Natural  Bridge. 

Drifton. — Junction  with  branch,  4  miles  north  to  Monti- 
cello,  the  county  seat  (Route  216),  connecting  there  with  the 
S.  F.  &  W.  for  Thomasville,  Ga.  At  Lht/d  all  trains  stojj 
for  refreshments — dinner,  75c.  at  Whitfield  House,  near  .sta- 
tion. Lloyd  is  considered  a  very  healthy  locality.  There 
is  good  hunting  in  the  neighborhood.  Hotel,  Echo  Cottage, 
one-quarter  mile  from  station  (.§2  a  day  ;  §10  a  week).  Two 
miles  west  of  Lloyd  is  the  county  line.     (For  Leon  County 


332  JA(JKSONVILLK   TO   RIVER   JUNCTION. 

map,  distances,  etc.,  see  i^p.  51-53.)  The  country  becomes 
more  and  more  hilly  as  the  train  nears  Tallaha.ssee,  with  fre- 
quent lakes,  streams,  and  meadows,  and  now  and  then  a 
glimpse  of  one  of  the  remarkaV>le  "  sinks  "  that  occur  in  this 
region.  A  large  tract  lying  on  l)oth  sitles  of  the  railroad  in 
this  vicinity  was  granted  to  the  Marquis  of  Lafayette  in 
recognition  of  his  services  to  the  United  States  during  the 
war  for  Indei^endence. 

Two  miles  west  of  Tallahassee,  the  Murat  homestead,  an 
unpretentious  dwelling,  may  be  seen  a  few  hundred  yards 
north  of  the  track.  Six  miles  farther  west  is  the  Ocklockony 
River  (see  p.  99),  forming  the  Leon-Gadsden  county  line 
(see  p.  31).  The  hill  country  continues,  with  fine  clear 
streams  and  evidences  of  agi-icultural  prosi^erity  on  eveiy 
hand.  Quincy,  the  county  town,  is  well  worth  a  visit. 
(See  Route  223.) 

Chattahoochee  is  at  the  edge  of  the  hills  bordering  the 
Appalachicola  bottom  lands.  (See  Route  224.)  If  an  all- 
night  stop  is  necessary,  the  best  available  hotel  will  be  found 
here. 

River  Junction. — The  terminus  of  three  railroads,  namely, 
the  Florida  Central  &  Peninsula,  east  to  Jacksonville  (208 
miles),  the  Louisville  &  Nashville  (Peusacola  Division),  west* 
to  Pensacola  (162  miles),  and  the  Savannah,  Florida  <t  West- 
ern, which  crosses  the  Georgia  line  2  miles  north  of  the  station. 
Connections  are  made  here  with  Appalachicola  River  steamers 
down-stream  on  Sunday,  Monday,  and  Friday,  p.m.  Up- 
stream, Tuesday,  Friday,  and  Sunday.  Hours  of  arrival  and 
dejjarture  are  somewhat  irregular,  but,  the  state  of  the  river 
permitting,  approximate  the  arrival  of  trains. 

Chattahoochee  River,  forming  the  eastern  boundary  of  the 
county,  finds  its  source  among  the  mountains  of  Tennessee 
and  South  Carolina,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  8  feet 
draught,  300  miles  from  the  sea.  Flint  River,  its  principal 
tributary,  is  navigable  to  Bainbridge,  40  miles.  Some  30 
miles  from  its  mouth  it  receives  Chipola  River,  also  navigable 
as  far  as  a  natural  bridge  a  short  distance  above  Marianna. 


MACCLENNY-OLUSTEE.  333 


211.     Macclenny,  Baker  County  (C.  H.). 

Hotel.— r/i«  Macdenny  House;  $2  a  dav. 

RALLROAD.-The  F.  C.  &  P.  Ry.;  east.  28  miles  to  Jacksonville;  west,  138 
miles  to  Tallahassee ;  ISO  miles  to'  River  Junction.    (See  map,  page  6.) 

As  the  county  seat,  aud  the  centre  of  a  frait-growing  and 
lumber  region,  this  town  is  a  j^lace  of  considerable  com- 
mercial activitv.  It  is  named  after  H.  C.  Macclenny,  the 
founder  of  the  place,  and  a  large  land-holder  in  the  Adcin- 
ity.  Peaches,  pears,  cotton,  and  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are 
grown  with  great  success  in  this  neighborhood.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  1,000,  aud  there  are  good  schools,  including 
the  St.  James  Academy.     The  county  court-house  is  here. 


212.     Olustee,  Baker  Countj'. 

(See  crossed  sabres,  map,  page  6.) 

A  village  of  about  400  inhabitants,  mainly  engaged  in 
farming  and  in  the  large  lumber  mills  near  the  outlet  of 
Ocean  Pond.  The  \AsiCe  is  notable  as  the  scene  of  the  most 
cousic]^rable  engagement  that  occurred  in  Florida  during  the 
Civil  War. 

The  whole  field  of  battle  can  be  seen  from  the  car  windows 
as  the  train  approaches  Olustee  Station,  though  the  exact 
localities  can  be  distinguished  only  by  one  who  is  familiar 
with  them.  About  twenty  minutes  after  passing  Sanderson, 
an  enclosure  may  be  seen  north  of  the  track,  where  the  Con- 
federates buried  the  Federal  dead  after  the  fight.  A  little 
farther,  and  the  blue  waters  of  Ocean  Pond,  with  white 
buildings  and  lumber  mills  on  the  shore,  may  be  seen 
through  the  trees.  A  small  creek,  the  outlet  of  the  pond, 
nearly  marks  the  line  held  by  the  Confederates,  their  left 
extending  to  the  pond,  where  earthwork  defences  were  hast- 
ily thrown  up.  Protracted  rains  had  filled  the  lowlands 
with  water,  so  that  they  were  nearly  impassable,  and  ren- 
dered the  ordinary  evolutions  of  foot-soldiers  extremely  diffi- 
cult. 


334  0LU8TEE. 

During  the  winter  of  18G3-64,  the  headquarters  of  the 
United  States  forces  in  the  Department  of  tho  South  were  at 
Hilton  Head,  S.  0.,  with  General  Quincy  Adams  Gilniore  in 
command.  In  comi^liance  with  orders  from  Washington,  a 
force  of  10,000  men  of  tho  Tenth  Army  Corps  was  detached, 
early  in  February,  to  operate  in  Florida. 

The  plan  was  to  make  Jacksonville  a  base  of  operations, 
march  westward  along  the  railroad  to  Tallahassee,  and  open 
commnuication  thence  with  St.  Mark's,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. This  would  practically  secure  complete  control  of  the 
peninsula,  with  a  seaport  at  either  end  of  the  line.  Jack- 
sonville was  held  at  the  time  by  a  force  of  Confederate  States 
trooi^s  under  General  Joseph  Finnegan.  He  had  no  ade- 
quate means,  however,  of  dealing  with  the  heavy  ordnance 
carried  by  the  Federal  gun-boats,  and  prudently  withdrew  to 
a  point  near  Marietta,  seven  miles  from  the  river.  He  was 
obliged  to  destroy  a  large  amoiint  of  stores  to  prevent  caji- 
ture  by  the  Federal  troops,  and  incidentally  a  number  of 
buildings  were  burned  at  the  same  time. 

The  Confederates  had  hardly  established  themselves  at 
Marietta  when  they  were  compelled  again  to  retire  in  such 
haste  that  eight  pieces  of  artillery,  one  hundred  jirisouers, 
and  a  considerable  amount  of  stores  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Federal  troops,  and  a  river  steamer  with  two  hundred 
and  seventy  bales  of  cotton  was  only  saved  from  cai)ture  by 
being  burned. 

General  Finnegan  retreated  westward  nearly  as  far  as 
Lake  City,  closely  followed  by  Federal  horse  under  Colonel 
Guy  V.  Henry,  of  the  First  Massachusetts  Cavalry,  who  ap- 
l^ears  to  have  conducted  the  scouting  operations  of  the  cam- 
paign with  great  vigor  and  good  judgment. 

The  Federals  advanced  as  far  as  Baldwin,  then  as  now  an 
important  railway  junction,  and  there  intrenched  themselves. 
Some  of  the  old  earthworks  may  still  be  seen  from  the  win- 
dows of  passing  trains.  Thus  far.  General  Gilmore  had  ac- 
comj^auied  the  expedition  to  see  it  fairly,  under  way  ;  but  he 
now  turned  it  over  to  his  second  in  command,  Brigadier  Tru- 
man Seymour,  with  orders  to  hold  Jacksonville,  Baldwin, 
and  the  South  Prong  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  twelve  miles 


OLUSTEE.  335 

farther  west.  Leaving  the  command  thxis  advantageously 
posted,  Gilmore  returned  to  Hilton  Head. 

No  sooner  was  he  gone  than  Seymour,  misled  perhaps  by 
the  impunity  with  which  Henry's  light  horse  had  scouted 
almost  as  far  as  Lake  City,  determined  to  advance  on  his 
own  responsibility.  He  wrote  Gilmore  to  this  effect,  and  that 
officer  promptly  despatched  orders  countermanding  the  ad- 
vance. The  messenger,  however,  arrived  just  too  late, 
Seymour,  with  about  five  thousand  men,  was  already  on  the 
march. 

In  the  meantime  the  Confederate  department  commander, 
General  P.  T.  Beauregard,  had  been  hurrying  reinforcements 
to  Finnegan,  among  them  the  veteran  brigade  of  General 
Alfred  Holt  Colquitt.  Finnegan's  scouts  kept  him  advised  of 
Seymour's  movements,  and  as  soon  as  preparations  for  an  ad- 
vance were  ajiparent  he  selected  Olustee  as  the  most  defen- 
sible position  within  reach  of  Lake  City.  Seymour's  line  of 
march  necessarily  followed  the  railroad,  which  here  crosses 
a  swampy  creek  with  a  lake  on  one  side  and  piney  woods 
on  the  other.  Finnegan  was  thus  able  to  post  his  men  so 
that,  with  the  usual  extemporized  field  defences,  they  were  in 
quite  a  strong  position. 

At  noon,  on  February  20,  1864,  Seymour's  advance  neared 
Olustee.  What  with  mud  and  water  for  miles  along  the  flat 
woods  beside  the  railroad,  and  the  almost  impassable  pal- 
metto scrub,  the  important  duties  of  advanced  skirmishers 
and  flankers  were  either  omitted  altogether,  or  j^erformed 
so  superficially  as  to  be  ineftectual.  At  all  events  the  Fed- 
erals marched  into  a  trap,  and  the  first  notice  they  had  of  the 
presence  of  the  enemy  was  a  scathing  fire  from  an  invisible 
foe  that  told  heavily  on  the  advance  battalions.  Colonel, 
afterward  General,  Joseph  E.  Hawley,  was  at  the  front  with 
his  own  regiment,  the  Seventh  Connecticut  Volunteer  In- 
fantry, and  but  for  the  presence  of  these  and  other  veteran 
troops  under  Colonels  Henry,  Barton,  and  Scammon,  the  dis- 
order consequent  upon  such  an  unexpected  attack  must 
have  been  instantly  overwhelming.  A  line  was  however 
formed  with  creditable  expedition,  and  a  s^iirited  fire  was 
returned.  The  Confederates  had  every  advantage  of  position, 


336  OLUSTEE. 

and  tired  practically  from  the  shelter  of  an  ambuscade.  The 
Federals  nevertheless  maintained  the  oflfensive,  bringing  up 
Hamilton's  battery  of  light  artillery,  and  feeling  out  the  ene- 
my's position. 

By  mid-afternoon  General  Seymour  succeeded  in  deploy- 
ing his  line,  but  on  advancing  the  men  found  themselves 
confronted  by  an  impassable  morass.  Regiment  after  regi- 
ment moved  forward,  exhausted  its  ammunition  against  the 
deadly  screen  of  pine  and  palmetto,  and  fell  back,  leaving  a 
heavy  percentage  of  dead  and  dying.  Hamilton's  battery  of 
light  artillery  w  as  jjushed  forward  into  an  advanced  position, 
and  in  twenty  minutes  all  but  ten  of  its  fifty  horses  were 
killed  or  disabled,  and  of  the  eighty-two  men  who  went  into 
action  only  thirty-seven  wei'e  able  to  help  drag  some  of  the 
guns  to  the  rear. 

Toward  the  latter  part  of  the  afternoon  the  Confederates 
assumed  the  offensive,  and  a  regiment  under  Colonel  Zach- 
erj  broke  the  Federal  centre.  Just  at  this  time  the  reserve 
of  colored  troops,  consisting  of  the  Fifty-fourth  Massachu- 
setts and  the  First  North  Carolina,  came  up  and  made  a 
stubborn  stand.  The  North  Carolina  regiment  lost  its  Col- 
onel, Lieutenant-Colonel,  Major,  and  Adjutant,  and  the  Con- 
federate advance  was  checked  long  enough  for  Seymour  to 
collect  the  remnants  of  his  command,  and  organize  an  or- 
derly retreat. 

As  soon  indeed  as  the  Confederates  became  the  aggressors 
the  conditions  were  reversed,  and  the  natural  difficulties  of 
the  country  told  in  favor  of  the  retreating  Federals.  The 
pursuit  was  kept  up  till  dark,  but  it  was  merely  a  skirmish 
in  retreat,  and  Seymour  was  able,  before  permitting  a  halt, 
to  gain  the  east  bank  of  the  St.  Mary's  Eiver,  a  position  of 
at  least  temporary  security.  The  Confederates,  besides  gain- 
ing the  day,  captured  500  prisoners,  5  guns,  2  stand  of  colors, 
and  2,000  small-arms.  The  Federal  loss  in  killed,  wound- 
ed, and  missing  was  1,828  men,  and  that  of  the  Confederates 
934,  figures  which  prove  beyond  dispute  the  obstinate  cour- 
age with  which  the  fight  was  maintained  on  both  sides. 
Considering  the  numbers  engaged,  this  action  was  one  of  the 
most  important  south  of  Virginia.     It  defeated  a  well-laid 


OLUSTEE— LAKE  CITY.  o37 

scheme  for  wresting  from  the  Confederates,  at  one  blow,  al- 
most the  whole  State  of  Florida,  which,  once  secured,  could 
have  been  held  with  comparatively  little  trouble. 

General  Seymour's  hasty  change  of  plans,  involving  a  long 
march  throiigh  an  unknown  and  exceedingly  difficult  coun- 
try, has  never  been  satisfactorily  accounted  for.  His  per- 
sonal gallantry,  however,  has  never  been  questioned.  Dur- 
ing the  action  he  did  all  that  reckless  daring  could  suggest 
to  retrieve  the  disaster  that  his  own  rashness  had  provoked, 
and  his  military  record,  both  before  and  after  the  fatal  day 
at  Olustee,  is  highly  creditable. 


213,     Lake  City,  Baker  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1,800. 

Hotels. — Central  House,  t2  a  day  ;   The  Inv,  $2  a  day. 

Railroads.— Florida  Cent.  &  Peninsula  Ry.  ;  east  to  Jacksonville  (60  miles)  ; 
west  to  Tallahassee  (106  miles).  Ga.  Southern  Rd. ;  north  to  Macon,  Ga.  (210 
miles) ;  south,  to  Palatka  (75  miles). 

LivEBv. — Single  team,  75c.  an  hour  ;  $2.50  a  day. 

Lake  City  takes  its  name  from  nearly  a  score  of  small  lakes 
and  ponds  that  surround  it,  fed  by  twice  as  many  springs 
which  bubble  up  through  the  sandy  soil.  To  a  stranger  the 
trees  are  the  most  consjiicuous  feature  of  Lake  City.  They 
fairly  embower  the  whole  place  and  effectually  screen  it  from 
the  publicity  of  passing  trains.  As  the  site  of  the  State 
Agricultural  College  and  the  United  States  Experiment  Sta- 
tion, it  is  evidently  considered  by  experts  as  fairly  typical  in 
soil  and  climate  of  this  section  of  the  State.  The  first  settle- 
ment was  in  1820.  In  1837  it  became  a  military  post,  and 
until  1859  was  called  "Alligator,"  after  a  famous  Semiuole 
chief.  It  is  the  shipping  point  for  a  region  esijecially  favor- 
able to  the  cultivation  of  Sea  Island  or  long  staple  cotton, 
and  warehouses  have  been  established  here  by  some  of  tho 
gi-eat  Northern  cotton  factors.  The  experimental  gardens  are 
well  worth  visiting,  and  a  drive  in  the  vicinity  will  afford  an 
intending  settler  an  excellent  idea  of  the  capabilities  of  this 
section  of  the  State. 

WIdte  Sulj)hur  Springs,  on  Suwannee  River,    twelve  miles 
N.W.,  may  be  reached  by  rail  or  wagon  road.     It  is  a  beauti- 
92 


338  LAKE  CITY-LIVE   OAK— MADISON. 

ful  place,  and  was  a  fashionable  resort  before  the  Civil  '^'av. 
There  is  good  fishing  in  the  surrounding  lakes.  Lake  City 
has  Episcopal,  Presbyterian,  Catholic,  Methodist,  and  13ai>- 
tist  chui'ches,  and  excellent  public  and  private  schools. 


214.     Live  Oak,  Suwannee  County  (C.  H.). 

Population,  1,000. 

Hotels. — Ethel  Honse,  Live  Oak  Hotel,  $2  to  $2..50  a  day. 
Raixuoad. — Florida  Central  &  Peniusnla ;  east,  to  Jacksonville  (82  milei-)  ; 
•west,  to  Tallahassee  (84  miles),  etc. 

A  thriving  place,  with  large  lumber  interests,  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  a  i-ich  agricultural  county,  which  grows  a  large 
amount  of  long  staple-cotton,  vegetables,  and  farm  ju-oducts. 


215.     Madison,  Madison  County  (C.  H.;. 

Population,  1,200. 

Hotel. — The  Central  Park  Hotel,  $3  a  day. 

Railkoai). — The  F.  C.  &  P. ;  east,  to  Jacksonville  (110  miles) ;  west,  to  Talla- 
hassee (56  miles),  etc. 

Madison  stands  on  a  considerable  elevation,  with  streets 
pleasantly  shaded  by  forest  trees,  and  all  conveniences  in 
the  way  of  shipjjing  facilities,  telegraph,  express,  and  bank- 
ing offices,  and  good  general  stores.  The  surrounding  coun- 
try is  very  productive.  Cotton,  com,  hay,  vegetables,  and 
fruits  are  grown  in  large  quantities,  and  Northern  thread  fac- 
tories have  here  their  agents  and  warehouses  for  the  pur- 
chase and  storage  of  long  staple  cotton.  Fairly  good  roads 
lead  north  into  Georgia,  and  south  into  Taylor  County.  The 
town  was  settled  about  1830.  It  has  a  handsome  court- 
house, several  churches,  and  good  public  and  private 
schools. 


MONTICELLO.  339 

216.     Monticello,  Jefiferson  County  (O.  H.). 

Popnlation,  1,700. 

Hotels. — St.  Elmo,  $4  a  dav  ;  Madden  House,  $2  ;  Partridfje  House,  $2. 

Railroads.— The  S.  F.  &  W.;  north,  to  Thomasville,  Ga.  ;24  miles)  ;  F.  C. 
&  P.;  east,  to  Jacksonville  (143  miles) ;  west,  to  Tallahassee  (23  miles),  etc. 
Stations  separate,  but  near  each  other. 

The  main  business  of  Monticello,  aside  from  that  connect- 
ed with  the  coiiuty  offices,  is  the  shipment  of  cotton,  corn, 
oats,  tobacco,  lecoute  pears,  pecan  nuts,  and  general  pro- 
duce in  the  way  of  vegetables,  etc.  There  are  Methodist, 
Baptist,  Episcopalian,  and  Presbyterian  churches,  with 
public  and  private  schools.  The  town  is  laid  out  in  blocks 
200  feet  square,  with  streets  100  feet  wide  between  them, 
shaded  by  superb  trees,  and  often  bordered  by  gardens 
where  roses  bloom  the  year  round,  and  old-fashioned  South- 
ern mansions  stand  among  oaks  and  magnolias.  In  some 
cases  smart  new  houses  and  stores  have  iiushed  in  among 
their  seniors,  asserting  the  changed  condition  of  life  in  the 
old  county  capital. 

The  following  weights  and  dimensions  of  vegetables  grown 
in  this  vicinity  are  vouched  for  on  good  authority :  a  short 
beet  31  inches  in  girth  ;  a  fiat  turnip  11  inches  in  diameter  ; 
a  radish  27  inches  long  and  18  inches  in  circumference, 
weighing  6^  pounds  ;  a  globe  turnip  weighing  without  top 
or  tap  root  11  pounds  6  ounces;  and  a  water-melon,  jierfect 
to  the  centre,  weighing  54  pounds. 

MiccosuTcie  Lake,  3  miles  north  of  Monticello,  and  19 
miles  northeast  of  Tallahassee,  is  about  15  miles  long,  and  in 
the  widest  part  some  4  miles  across.  The  principal  tributa- 
ries are  Ward's  CreeJc,  rising  in  Thomas  County,  Ga.,  and 
Dry  Creeic,  flowing  from  the  westward.  Half  a  mile  from 
the  mouth  of  Dry  Creek,  which  is  known  as  the  head  of  the 
lake,  is  a  circular  basin  nearly  or  quite  100  feet  deej)  toward 
the  southern  sliore,  but  shallow  toward  the  north.  A  su- 
l^erb  growth  of  hard  wood  timber  nearly  surrounds  this 
basin.  Here  may  be  seen  the  different  varieties  of  oak, 
hickory,  beech,  wild  cherry,  mock  orange,  red  bay,  and 
magnolia,  often  loaded  down  with  enormous  grapevines,  cle- 
matis, yellow  jasmine,  and  woodbine.     Beneath  and  cover- 


340  MONTICELLO. 

ing  the  ground  are  countless  shrubs,  some  of  them  flower- 
ing, and  others  merely  a  tangle  of  luxuriant  vegetation.  It 
were  hard  to  find  a  better  jilace  than  this  to  study  the  flora 
peculiar  to  this  part  of  Florida,  and  the  location  is  peculiarly 
attractive  from  the  fact  that  the  land  rises  boldly  to  a  con- 
siderable height,  commanding  a  view  of  several  miles  down 
the  lake  to  where  the  shores  curve  to  the  eastward,  and 
gi'adually  converge  until  the  lake  becomes  a  creek,  and  after 
the  manner  of  streams  in  this  region,  plunges  bodily  into 
the  earth  and  is  lost  to  sight.  Within  a  mile  or  two  of  this 
sink  are  several  others.  Long  Pond  Sink,  with  a  cuiTent 
from  west  southwest,  Black  Creek  Sink,  with  a  current  from 
south  southwest,  Bailey's  Mill  Creek  Sink,  with  a  current 
from  east  southeast.  (The  bearings  are  on  the  authority  of 
Br.  F.  A.  Byid,  of  Miccosukie. )  The  conformation  of  the 
land  induces  the  belief  that  these  sinks  unite  to  form  a  sub- 
terranean river,  flowing  southwesterly  until  it  breaks  forth 
again  in  the  St.  Mark's  River. 

Other  smaller  lakes  are  Erie,  Olive,  Bradford,  Hall,  and 
there  are  numberless  and  nameless  ponds,  all  abounding 
with  fish.  The  woods  and  valleys  are  well  watered  with 
clear  streams,  usually  of  excellent  water. 


TALLAHASSEE.  341 


220.    Tallahassee. 

Population,  2,933.— Lat.  80°  2T'  N.,  Long.  84"  18'  W. 

Hotels.— /,co»i  Hotel,  $4  a  day ;  St.  James  Hotel,  $2.50  to  13. 

Railroads.— The  F.  C.  &  P.  i Western  Division) ;  east,  to  Jacksonville  (166 
milesi ;  west,  to  River  Junction  (42  miles),  connecting  there  with  Louisville  & 
Nashville  Ed.  (Pensaco!a  Di^^sionl  and  Appalachicola  River  Steamers.  St. 
Mark's  Branch  (V.  C.  &  P.)  to  St.  Mark's,  21  miles  south. 

Churches  and  Schools. — Episcopal,  Catholic,  Fresbyterian,  Baptist,  Meth- 
odist, State  Xornial  School,  Lincoln  Academy. 

Bankers. — B.  C.  Lewis  &  Sons. 

Livery.— Saddle  Horses,  30c.  to  50c.  an  hour  ;  $1.50  a  day.  Single  team,  $3 
a  day.    Double  team,  io  a  day.    Fare  from  station  25c. 

Whether  seen  from  a  distance  or  near  at  hand,  Tallahassee 
cannot  fail  to  impress  the  traveller  with  the  beauty  of  its 
situation.  The  town,  with  its  wide,  shaded  streets,  quite 
covers  the  crest  of  a  noble  hill  that  rises  nearly  300  feet 
above  the  sea  level,  and  every  street-opening  commands  an 
extensive  view  over  similar  hills,  and  out  across  the  flat- 
woods  to  the  southward,  bordering  the  Gulf  Coast. 

The  name  Tallahassee,  usually  translated  "old  field,"  ap- 
parently conveys  to  the  Seminole  the  idea  that  we  associate 
with  "  ancestral  acres."  It  is  applied  to  any  land  formerly 
occupied  by  the  tribe  as  a  permanent  home.  The  Spaniards 
established  a  fortified  camp  on  a  hill  to  the  westward  of  the 
town,  probably  during  a  war  with  the  Apalaches  in  1638.  The 
place  is  now  occupied  by  a  handsome  old  jilantation  house, 
and  is  known  as  the  Fort  St.  Luis  Place.  A  piece  of  armor 
found  there  is  preserved  in  the  State  public  library,  Talla- 
hassee. 

The  local  Indians  were  driven  out  early  in  the  first  Semi- 
nole War  (1818),  and  settlers  from  North  Carolina,  Vir- 
ginia, and  Georgia,  practically  took  possession  of  Tallahassee 
hill  before  the  treaty  of  cession  was  confirmed.  In  1823  it 
was  made  the  territorial  capital,  and  naturally  became  the 
State  capital  when  Florida  was  admitted  to  the  Union  in 
1845.  The  Indian  wars  left  it  practically  unmolested,  and 
it  became  famous  during  the  ijeaceful,  prosperous  years  that 
followed  as  a  centre  of  a  society  that  held  itself  socially  and 
intellectually  best  in  the  aristocracy  of  Southern  jjlanters. 
Its  delightful  climate  and  beautiful  surroundings  attracted 
wealthy  residents  from  all  over  the  South,  and  at  Bellair, 


342  TALLAHASSEE. 

G  miles  distant,  was  a  sort  of  rural  annex  to  the  more  elabo- 
rate life  of  the  State  capital.  An  Ordinance  of  Secession 
was  passed  January  10,  1861,  and  most  of  the  men  enlisted 
in  the  Confederate  service.  Enough  were  left,  however,  to 
repel  an  ill-advised  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  Federals  by 
way  of  St.  Mark's.  (Route  212.)  Civil  war  dealt  leniently 
with  Tallahassee,  and  it  was  not  occupied  by  United  States 
troojjs,  save  as  a  precautionary  measure,  after  hostilities 
ended. 

Daring  early  spring  Tallahassee  becomes  a  veritable  bower 
of  roses.  The  old  mansions  that  line  its  streets,  some  of 
them  good  specimens  of  what  is  termed  colonial  architecture, 
stand,  as  a  rule,  in  the  midst  of  lovely  gardens,  often  in  a 
tangle  of  flowers  and  vines,  shaded  by  stately  oaks,  mag- 
nolias, and  bays. 

The  State  House  is  at  the  brow  of  the  hill  near  the  south 
end  of  Main  Street.  It  is  an  imposing  old  structure  of  brick 
and  stucco,  with  a  stately  j^ortico  and  a  general  air  of  dilapi- 
dation. It  stands  in  a  noble  grove  of  trees,  and  from  the 
roof  a  wide  view  opens  over  the  surrounding  country.  The 
roof  is  rather  diificult  of  access,  but  ^practically  the  same 
view  can  be  obtained  from  the  cupola  of  the  court-house  near 
at  hand.  Some  interesting  war  relics  are  to  be  seen  within 
the  building.  The  original  Ordinance  of  Secession  is  in  the 
Governor's  room,  a  number  of  tattered  Confederate  battle- 
flags  in  the  Adjutant-General's  office,  and  interesting  maps 
and  records  in  their  proper  departments.  In  the  Capitol 
grounds  stand  several  monuments  with  commemorative  in- 
scriptions. 

The  Episcopal  Cemetery,  five  minutes'  walk  west  of  the 
Leon  Hotel,  is  crowded  with  the  graves  of  old  Tallahassee 
families.  There  are  no  very  ancient  dates  on  the  stones — 
none,  of  course,  jjrior  to  the  settlement  of  the  town  (1827). 
There  are,  however,  a  number  of  interesting  monuments  and 
inscriptions,  among  them  two  modest  shafts  that  mark  the 
graves  of  Charles  Louis  Napoleon  Achille  Murat,  son  of  the 
King  of  Naples  and  Prince  of  the  two  Sicilies,  and  of  Cath- 
erine his  wife,  daughter  of  Colonel  Bird  C.  Willis,  of  Vir- 
ginia. (For  a  sketch  of  their  story  see  ojoposite  page.) 


TALLAHASSEE.  343 

Another  more  modern  cemetery  is  at  the  foot  of  the  north- 
western slope,  where  lie  most  of  the  Confederate  dead  whose 
remains  coiald  be  brought  home.  On  Memorial  Day  of  each 
year  these  graves  are  decorated  with  flowers  by  surviving 
friends. 

The  Murat  Estate. — Two  miles  west  of  the  railway  station. 
Follow  road  leading  in  that  direction  near  railway.  The  es- 
tate bears  the  name  of  its  original  owner,  eldest  son  of  the 
famous  marshal  of  France  under  the  First  Napoleon,  who 
was  made  King  of  Naples  in  1805.  On  his  dejjosition  in 
1815,  the  son,  then  a  boy  of  15,  was  sent  to  finish  his  edu- 
cation in  Austria.  Shortly  after  reaching  his  majority  he 
cut  adrift  from  early  associations  and  came  to  America. 

Carriage-roads  and  bridle-paths  were  then  almost  the  only 
artificial  lines  of  travel,  but  the  Prince  visited  nearly  all  the 
settled  portions  of  the  United  States.  At  Tallahassee  he 
naturally  became  enamoured  of  the  climate  and  the  countiy. 
He  bought  a  large  estate,  erected  an  unpretentious  house, 
still  known  as  the  Murat  Homestead,  though  its  founder 
named  it  Lipona.  He  at  once  interested  himself  actively  in 
local  affairs,  became  a  naturalized  citizen,  and  served  suc- 
cessively as  postmaster,  alderman,  and  mayor.  In  1826  he 
married  Catherine,  a  daughter  of  Colonel  Bird  C.  Willis,  of 
Virginia,  and  grandniece  of  Washington. 

Murat  was  a  man  of  bi'illiant  intellectual  gifts,  but  he 
was  eccentric  to  the  verge  of  lunacy,  and  his  personal  habits 
were  so  disgusting  that  for  some  time  the  beautiful,  refined 
Virginia  girl  would  not  listen  to  his  suit.  However,  she 
yielded  at  last  and  became  the  Princess  Murat,  recognized 
as  such  by  all  who  cherished  the  memory  of  the  First  Napo- 
leon. The  Murats  visited  Belgium  together  and  were  re- 
ceived there  with  royal  honors,  and  after  her  hiasband's 
death  the  Princess  was  received  and  treated  with  distin- 
guished favor  by  the  Third  Napoleon. 

Murat  was  the  author  of  three  works  in  French,  all  treat- 
ing of  political  afifairs  in  the  United  States.  These  were 
published  in  Paris  (1830  to  1838j  and  gained  for  their  au- 
thor wide  recognition  as  a  writer  of  ability.  His  last  and 
most  considerable    work,    "The  Principles  of  Kepublican 


344  TALLAHASSEE. 

Government,  as  perfected  in  America,"  went  through  fifty 
editions,  and  was  translated  into  the  principal  continental 
languages.  The  shiftless,  eccentric  habits  of  the  Prince 
wasted  his  property,  and  when  he  died,  in  1847,  after  years 
of  disease,  through  which  he  was  faithfully  tended  by  his 
wife,  she  was  left  almost  without  an  income.  The  restora- 
tion of  the  Napoleonic  dynasty  in  France,  however,  brought 
her  recognition  and  a  handsome  competence  from  the  new 
Emperor,  with  whom  she  was  a  great  favorite.  With  the 
overthrow  of  the  Southern  Confederacy  her  i>roperty  again 
disajjpeared,  but  on  the  restoration  of  peace  Napoleon  III. 
granted  her  an  annuity  of  30,000  francs,  which  continued  till 
her  death  in  1867,  only  a  short  time  before  the  Empire  was 
again  demolished  by  German  arms. 

Excursions  — The  hill  country  of  West  Florida  is  favored 
above  the  rest  of  the  State  in  the  matter  of  roads.  The  soil 
is  such  a  happy  admixture  of  clay  and  sand  that  in  addition 
to  unsurpassed  i^roductiveness  in  certain  fields  of  agricult- 
ure, it  packs  into  capital  roadways,  which,  without  any 
care  to  speak  of,  remain  hard  and  smooth  during  fair  weather. 
Koads  diverge  toward  all  the  cardinal  points  from  Tallahas- 
see— north  and  east  toward  Lakes  Jackson,  lamonia,  and 
Miccosukee,  south  to  St.  Mark's,  Newport,  and  the  famous 
Wakulla  Spring,  and  west  to  the  Oclockonee  Eiver  and  the 
Quincey  tobacco  lands.  In  all  directions  the  visitor  may  be 
sure  of  a  picturesque,  diversified  country,  well  wooded,  and 
abounding  in  lakes,  streams,  sinks,  and  springs.  After  heavy 
rains  the  valley  roads  are  often  submerged,  and  it  is  no  more 
than  right  to  warn  strangers  against  the  seemingly  shallow 
waters  that  often  cover  them.  This  whole  region  is  under- 
drained  by  subterranean  rivers.  "  Sinks  "  sometimes  open 
in  the  most  unexpected  places.  In  1889  a  party  from  Chi- 
cago narrowly  escaped  with  their  lives  through  carelessly 
driving  into  what  appeared  to  be  a  shallow  jDond  that  had 
temporarily  covered  the  road.  The  water,  however,  is 
usually  clear,  and  there  is  no  danger  if  a  reasonably  sharp 
lookout  is  kei^t. 

These  "  sinks  "  always  occur  in  connection  with  some  un- 
derground lake  or  water-course.     Thev  mav  be  large  enough 


TALLAHASSEE.  345 

to  take  in  a  good-sized  house,  or  only  a  few  feet  across. 
Sometimes  the  water  at  bottom  is  shallow,  sometimes  deep, 
and  still  or  swift,  according  to  conditions.  They  are  caused 
by  the  action  of  subterranean  streams  wearing  away  the  un- 
derlying rock  until  a  cavity  is  formed.  After  a  time  the 
roof  becomes  too  thin  to  support  the  weight  overhead,  and 
accordingly  falls  in.  It  is  either  swept  down  stream,  or  else 
dams  up  the  current,  and  perhaps  the  next  passer-by  finds  a 
lake  or  a  full-grown  river  where  none  existed  before.  (See 
Miccosukee  and  Jackson  Lakes.) 

Lake  Hall,  6  miles  northeast,  on  Thomasville  Road.  A 
favorite  picnic-ground,  with  good  fishing,  fine  forest-trees, 
and  picturesque  surroundings.  At  this  lake  the  Leon  Hotel 
keeps  boats  for  the  use  of  guests. 

Lake  Jackson,  6  miles  northwest,  is  irregularly  shaped, 
about  6  miles  long  and  4  miles  wide.  It  is  quite  deep,  and 
shortly  after  the  Charleston  earthquake  of  1886  it  distin- 
guished itself  by  disappearing  entirely  through  an  unsus- 
pected subterranean  passage.  Large  numbers  of  fish  per- 
ished, and  for  a  time  pestilence  was  dreaded  by  the  neigh- 
boring residents.  After  a  few  days  the  lake  began  to  fill  up 
again,  and  since  that  time  has  maintained  its  usual  level. 

Lake  lamonia,  12  miles  northeast,  is  somewhat  larger 
than  Lake  Jackson,  and  has  many  islands.  A  small  town  of 
the  same  name  is  near  its  eastern  end,  on  the  Thomasville 
road. 

Lake  Miccosukee,  18  miles  northeast.     (See  Roiite.) 

Bellaii\  6  miles  south,  on  St.  Marks  Road.  Formerly 
the  summer  resort  of  the  most  select  and  exclusive  circle  of 
Tallahassee  society.  It  is  in  the  edge  of  the  flatwoods,  and 
why  it  should  have  been  selected  by  its  frequenters  is  not 
easy  of  explanation.  In  the  days  of  its  prosperity,  however, 
a  number  of  cottages  were  built  here,  and  many  of  the  most 
distinguished  Southerners  of  the  day  entertained  their  friends 
with  the  lavish  hospitality  traditional  with  them.  Nothing 
now  marks  the  place  but  half-obliterated  foundations,  and 
groups  of  shade-trees  that  have  grown  to  a  lordly  height 
since  the  houses  crumbled  to  pieces,  or  were  burned,  during 
the  lawless  days  of  civil  war. 


340  TALLAHASSEE. 

Si.  Mnrloi,  21  miles  south  by  rail  (2  hoiii's),  or  carnage  (3 
Lours).  (SeeKoute  222.)  Train  from  Tallahassee  at  8.30 
A.M.,  returns  at  11  p.m.,  affording  no  time  for  local  expedi- 
tions.    (Route  212.) 

The  Wakulla  Volcano. — To  the  southeast  and  south  of  Tal- 
lahassee there  extends  a  vast  belt  of  flat  woods,  merging 
into  an  almost  impenetrable  tangle  of  iindergrowth  and 
swamp.  It  is  a  famous  hunting-ground,  and  somewhere 
within  its  shades  is  the  alleged  Wakulla  volcano.  The  cu- 
rious inquirer  is  sure  to  hear  the  most  contradictory  state- 
ments regarding  this  mystery.  He  will  be  told  by  some 
that  it  can  be  seen  from  any  high  obsei-vatory  in  the  vic- 
inity, and  by  others  that  it  cannot  be  seen  from  any  save  the 
most  southerly  uplands.  He  will  meet  people  who  have 
seen  the  smoke  almost  every  day  of  their  lives,  others  who  de- 
clare that  there  is  no  such  smoke,  and  still  others  who  say 
that  they  never  heard  of  it.  It  seems  to  be  pretty  well  estab- 
lished, however,  that  ever  since  the  country  was  settled, 
and,  according  to  Indian  tradition,  long  prior  to  that,  a  col- 
umn of  smoke  or  vapor  has  been  visible  in  favorable 
weather,  rising  from  a  fixed  point  far  within  the  jungle,  to 
which  no  man  has  yet  been  able  to  penetrate.  Several  ex- 
peditions have  been  organized  to  solve  the  mystery,  but 
none  of  them  have  penetrated  more  than  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  into  the  morass.  Once  or  twice  New  York  newspapers 
have  sent  representatives  with  orders  to  solve  the  prob- 
lem, but,  according  to  the  local  version,  they  have  always 
IH'oved  recreant  to  their  duty  as  soon  as  the  difficulties  in 
the  way  became  ai^parent.  The  "volcano,"  therefore,  bids 
fair  to  remain  a  mystery  until  some  concerted  measures  are 
taken  for  exploration  and  discovery.* 


*  A  column  of  smoke  was  pointed  out  to  the  author  as  the  alleged  "  volcano," 
and  ou  several  successive  days  bearings  were  taken  with  a  pocket  compass  from 
the  cupola  of  the  Court-hoiise  at  Tallahassee.  The  smoke  in  favorable  weather 
was  always  visible  in  the  same  place,  rolling  up  in  strong  volume,  usually 
dense  and  dark  like  the  smoke  from  a  furnace  chimney.  The  author  was  as- 
sured by  a  Northern  gentleman,  long  resident  in  Tallahassee,  that  it  was  often 
lighted  with  a  faint  glow  at  night.  The  best-informed  persons  with  whom  the 
author  conversed  believe  it  to  be  vapor  from  a  boiling  spring,  possibly  inter- 
mingled with  inflammable  gas  that  occasionally  ignites.    It  is  said  that  one  of 


THE    WAKULLA   SPRING.  847 


221.    The  Wakulla  Spring. 

Fifteen  miles  south  of  Tallahassee.  Foiir  miles  west  of  Wakulla  Station,  St. 
Marks  Rd.  By  carriage  from  Tallahassee,  2}i  hoiu-s.  By  row-boat  from  St. 
Marks,  2  hours. 

Wakulla — "Mystery"  in  the  language  of  the  Seminole.s — 
ranks  for  beauty  and  size  with  the  other  wonderful  springs 
of  Florida  described  elsewhere  (see  Routes  182  and  183). 
In  some  respects  it  surjaasses  them,  its  gi-eater  depth  lend- 
ing to  the  absolutely  transj^arent  water  shades  of  color  that 
are  wanting  in  the  others.  The  greatest  recorded  depth  of 
the  sirring  is  lOG  feet,  but  it  is  said  that  in  certain  places  no 
bottom  has  been  reached  with  the  sounding  line.  Far  down 
in  the  dejjths  a  ghostly  white  ledge  of  rock  is  visible,  from 
beneath  which  the  volume  of  water  m.shes  upward,  and 
where  fishes,  alligators,  and  turtles  are  quite  safe  from  hu- 
man snares,  though  as  plainly  visible  as  if  nothing  but  the 
air  intervened.  The  surroundings  of  the  spring  are  ex- 
tremely beautiful ;  preciijitous,  heavily-wooded  banks  over- 
hang the  water,  and  no  railroad  or  steamboat  as  yet  profanes 
the  solitude.  It  is  not  easy  to  say  which  is  the  better  route 
to  follow.  The  drive  from  Tallahassee  is  the  pleasanter. 
That  from  Wakulla  Station  is  the  shorter  and  easier.  In 
this  latter  case  conveyances  must  be  ordered  in  advance, 
and  are  usually  sent  down  from  Tallahassee.  The  trip  by 
water  from  St.  Marks  is  more  enjoyable  for  those  who  prefer 
boat  expeditions. 

Other  fine  springs  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  notably  at 
Newport,  3  miles  southeast  of  Wakulla,  where  the  water  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  sulphur,  and  the  springs  are  be- 
lieved to  possess  valuable  medicinal  properties. 


the  tributaries  of  the  Ocilla  River  is  distinctly  higher  In  temperature  than  any 
of  the  neighboring  streams,  and  though  it  has  never  been  explored,  it  flows 
from  the  direction  of  the  "  Wakulla  Smoke,"  aud  may  have  its  source  in  the 
supposed  boiling  spring.  C.  L.  N. 


348  S'l".    MARKS. 

222.     St.  Marks,  Wakulla  County. 

F.  C.  &  P.  Rd.  (St.  Marks  Branch),  Tallahassee  to  St.  Marks,  21  miles  (2 
hours). 

The  St.  Marks  Eiver  is  the  natural  seaport  of  Tallahassee. 
Once  across  the  bar,  which  has  7  feet  of  water  at  low  tide, 
there  is  a  good  depth  to  the  railroad  wharf.  In  the  early 
days  of  Tallahassee's  prosperity  a  plank  road  -was  built  to 
facilitate  the  transportation  of  cotton  and  tobacco.  A  rival 
company  built  the  railroad  in  1846,  upon  which  a  feud  arose 
between  the  two  companies  which  threatened  to  become  se- 
rious, biit  ended  in  a  victory  for  the  railroad.  In  1801  the 
F.  C.  &  P.  was  finished  to  the  State  capital,  and  naturally 
took  the  bulk  of  the  carrying  trade. 

A  fort  of  considerable  strength  was  built  by  the  Spaniards, 
under  Captain  Don  Jose  Primo  de  Ribeira  in  1718,  at  Port 
Leon,  two  miles  south  of  the  present  town  of  St.  Marks.  It 
was  called  San  Marcos  de  Apalaclie.  Ruined  limestone  ma- 
sonry work  still  marks  the  site.  During  the  civil  war  the 
river  served  to  some  extent  as  a  refuge  for  blockade  runners, 
but  United  States  gun-boats  cruised  up  and  down  the  coast 
at  such  short  intervals  that  blockade  running  was  dangerous 
business.  A  redoubt  was  thrown  up  near  the  lighthouse  in 
1862.  On  June  15,  1863,  the  work  was  shelled  by  the 
United  States  gun-boat  Tahoma,  Lieutenant  Howell.  The 
garrison — a  company  of  artillery — were  driven  out,  taking 
their  battery  with  them.  An  armed  party  landed  and  de- 
stroyed everything  about  the  works  that  would  burn.  Salt- 
works of  considerable  extent  were  afterward  established 
along  the  river,  and  the  Confederate  States  largely  drew 
their  supply  of  salt  from  this  source.  The  daily  product  of 
the  works  was  estimated  at  2,400  bushels.  Boat  expeditions 
from  the  Tahoma  totally  destroyed  the  works  on  Febniaiy 
17  and  27,  1864.  Property  not  contraband  of  war  was  dis- 
tributed among  the  neighboring  inhabitants.  On  March  6, 
1865,  a  considerable  force  of  Federals  landed  near  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  marched  U]}  as  far  as  the  Natural  Bridge, 
where  they  were  met  by  a  hastily  gathered  Confederate  force, 
and  repulsed  with  considerable  loss.     The  attacking  party 


ST.    MARKS— QUINCY.  349 

was  mainly  from  a  negi'o  regiment,  the  Second  U.  S.  Col- 
ored Infantry,  which  went  into  action  about  500  strong,  and 
lost  70  men  in  killed,  wounded,  and  missing.  Next  to  the 
battle  of  Ohistee,  this  was  the  most  considerable  engagement 
fought  within  the  State,  but  as  it  occurred  only  a  short 
time  before  the  fall  of  Richmond  and  the  surrender  of 
Lee,  it  was  almost  overlooked  by  all  except  local  historians, 
who  gloiT  in  it  as  among  the  last  triumphs  of  the  Confeder- 
ate arms. 

Cajiital  shooting  may  be  found  in  the  passes  and  creeks 
about  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  excellent  fishing  in  the 
deep  channels  of  the  river  itself.  The  St.  Marks  is  supposed 
to  find  its  source  in  Lake  Miccosukee  (Route  216).  Its  whole 
course  may  be  traced  by  a  succession  of  "  sinks,"  and  occa- 
sional exposed  reaches.  It  rises  sedately  from  its  subter- 
ranean ways  about  18  miles  north  of  St.  Marks,  forming  a 
pool  of  considerable  depth,  but  largely  overgrown  with 
rushes.  There  are  rapids  near  the  outlet,  and  again  at  two 
places  below,  respectively  I  and  8  miles  above  St.  Marks ; 
elsewhere  the  stream  is  wide,  placid,  and  deep.  The  rapids 
can  be  easily  run  in  a  small  boat,  but  are  hard  to  ascend. 

St.  Marks  light  stands  in  Lat.  30°  04'  28"  N.  Long.  84° 
10'  50"  W.  It  was  established  in  1829  and  rebuilt  in  1866. 
The  tower  is  white,  83  feet  high,  and  shows  a  fixed  white 
light  visible  14f  nautical  miles.  The  nearest  light  to  the 
westward  is  at  Cape  St.  George  (52  nautical  miles),  and  the 
nearest  to  the  east  and  south  at  Cedar  Key  (80  nautical 
miles) . 


223.     Quincy,  Gadsden  County  fO.  H.). 

Population,  600. 

Hotels. — Florida  House  ;   Love  House,  $1.50  to  f2  a  day. 

Qniucy  was  selected  as  the  county  town  site  and  laid  out 
in  1825.  The  town  is  about  one  mile  north  of  the  railway 
station,  where  carriages  are  always  in  waiting  on  the  arrival 
of  trains  (fare  25  cents).  The  situation  is  charming,  in  a  fine 
hilly  country  with  clear  rushing  streams,  good  roads,  a  rich 
soil,  and  fine  forests  on  all  sides.    The  town  itself  is  in  manv 


350  QUINCY— CHATTAHOOCHEE. 

respects  like  Monticello  and  Tallahassee,  with  its  wide 
streets  and  stately  old  Southern  mansions.  Within  a  few 
years  Northern  capital  has  largely  developed  the  tobacco- 
growing  interests  of  the  vicinity.  There  are  several  planta- 
tions within  easy  riding  distance,  one  of  them  containing 
12,000  acres,  of  which  at  this  writing  nearly  one-quarter  is 
under  cultivation.  Some  of  them  are  worked  by  negroes, 
and  others  by  colonies  of  Alsatians  imported  for  the  pur- 
pose. The  whole  business  is  carried  on  systematically,  sub- 
stantial fences  surround  the  fields,  and  each  section  has  its 
curing  and  storage  houses.  The  best  way  to  visit  these 
great  plantations  is  in  the  saddle,  as  the  distances  are  too 
great  to  be  covered  on  foot.  Vehicles,  however,  can  be 
driven  anywhere  along  the  jilantation  roads.  The  general 
superintendent  resides  in  Quiucy,  and  should  be  consulted 
as  to  the  most  interesting  points  to  visit.  During  the  win- 
ter mouths,  of  course,  the  fields  are  bare,  but  work  of  some 
kind  is  always  in  progress  (see  p.  31). 


224.     Chattahoochee,  Gadsden  County. 

The  earliest  overt  act  of  the  Secessionists  in  the  State  wa.s 
committed  at  this  point,  at  7  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  Janu- 
ary 6,  1861.  The  Ordinance  of  Secession  was  not  j^assed 
until  four  days  afterward,  but  no  doubt,  anticii)atiug  that 
event  with  certainty,  under  date  of  January  5th  the  governor 
issued  an  order  granting  authority  to  Colonel  Dunn  to  raise 
a  company,  seize  the  arsenal  and  its  contents  "now  in  the 
possession  of  the  General  Government,  and  retain  the  same, 
subject  to  my  orders."  The  arsenal  was  at  the  time  under 
charge  of  Ordnance  Sergeant  E.  Powell,  U.  S.  A.,  with  a  few 
men,  and  he  so  stoutly  refused  to  deliver  up  the  keys  that 
Colonel  Dunn  was  fain  to  telegraph  to  the  governor  for  fur- 
ther instructions,  upon  receipt  of  which  the  2:)lucky  ser- 
geant was  compelled  to  surrender  by  superior  force.  The 
post  was  an  arsenal  of  dejiosit,  containing  at  the  time  5,122 
pounds  of  powder,  173,476  cartridges  for  small-arms,  one  six- 
pounder  gun  with  a  sujjply  of  ammunition,  and  sundry  mis- 


CHATTAHOOCHEE— RIVER  JUNCTION.  351 

cellaneous  equipments.  This  arseual  was  establislied  in 
1833.  It  was  used  for  various  military  purposes  by  the 
Confederates,  and  after  tlie  return  of  peace  was  given  to  the 
State  of  Florida  by  the  United  States,  and  converted  into  a 
lunatic  asylum. 


230.    Biver  Junction  to  Pensacola. 

By  Louisville  &  Nashville  Rd.  (Pensacola  Division),  162  miles  (7  h.  50  min.). 
Best  hotels  at  Marianua,  De  Funiak  and  Milton. 

Shortly  after  leaving  River  Junction  the  train  enters  upon 
the  long  trestle  over  the  Appalachicola.  This  large  river, 
whose  turbid  waters  are  in  striking  contrast  with  the  clear 
streams  of  Leon  and  Gadsden  Counties,  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  Flint  and  Chattahoochee  Rivers ;  the  second 
of  which,  in  reality  the  main  stream,  has  its  sources  in 
Northern  Georgia,  almost  at  the  Carolina  line.  It  is  naviga- 
ble 300  miles  from  its  mouth.  Flint  River  is  comparatively 
small,  navigable  only  for  about  40  miles.  The  confluence 
of  these  streams  is  at  the  Georgia  line,  2  miles  above 
the  railroad  crossing,  and  about  100  miles  from  the  sea  "as 
the  river  runs,"  though  only  80  miles  in  a  straight  line. 
The  river  carries  down  enormous  deposits  of  alluvium,  form- 
ing wide  stretches  of  marshy  delta  in  Appalachicola  Bay. 
The  bottom  lands  are  very  rich,  but  liable  to  frequent  over- 
flow, as  may  be  seen  by  the  flood  marks  nearly  at  the  level 
of  the  rails  on  the  trees  beside  the  trestle. 

In  Jackson  County  west  of  the  Aijpalachicola  the  country 
is  less  conspicuously  hilly  than  that  to  the  eastward,  though 
there  are  still  considerable  elevations.  At  Marianna  a 
pleasant  stop  may  be  made  (Route  231). 

De  Fun  ink  Springs;  (Route  232)  is  a  very  attractive  place, 
with  a  good  hotel  and  a  winter  school  on  the  Chautauqua 
plan.  A  short  distance  west  of  Longview  tlie  railway  passes 
into  Washington  County  (page  101),  closely  following  its 
northern  boundary  to  the  Choctawhatchee  River,  where  it 
passes  into  Holmes  County  (page  39).  Crossing  numerous 
rapid  streams,  the  Walton  County  line  is  reached  at  Argjde, 
whence  are  post-roads  south  to  the  Scottish  Colony  that  set- 


352  RIVER  JUNCTION— MARI  ANN  A. 

tied  in  this  region  early  in  the  present  century.  Be  Funiak 
Springs  is  the  principal  resort  of  this  jjart  of  Florida.  (See 
Koute  232.)  About  one  mile  west  of  Crestview  is  tlie  Wal- 
ton-Santa Kosa  County  line.  The  stream  crossed  just  be- 
yond is  iShodl  River,  a  north  fork  of  Yellow  Water  Miver. 

At  Miltou  (Route  233)  the  line  ci'osses  the  head  of  Black- 
water  Bay,  the  mouth  of  Black  River,  a  deep,  rapid  stream 
down  which  large  quantities  of  lumber  are  floated  to  Pensa- 
cola  and  a  market.  A  run  of  about  twenty  minutes  from 
Milton  opens  a  refreshing  view  over  Escambia  Bay,  which 
the  railway  presently  crosses  on  a  trestle  3  miles  long. 
From  this  jioint  to  Pensacola,  about  20  miles,  the  ride  is 
most  enjoyable  for  interest  and  beauty.  After  leaving  the 
trestle  the  rails,  as  a  rule,  follow  the  water  side  with  the 
Escambia  Blufts  inland,  and  occasional  wooded  points  which 
momentarily  cut  ofi"  the  bay  view. 


231.     Marianna,  Jackson  County  (C.  H.). 

Popalation,  1,500. 

Hotel.— jT/te  Chipola  Hotel,  $2  a  day. 

Railroad. — Louisville  &  Nashville  "Rd.  (Pensacola  Division) ;  west,  to  Pen- 
eacola  (136  miles)  ;  east,  to  River  Junction  (26  miles). 

A  pretty  village  on  the  hill  north  of  the  station.  It  has 
the  county  buildings,  and  a  generally  attractive  appearance. 
The  Chipola  River,  which  runs  near  the  town,  crossing  the 
railway  a  short  distance  east  of  the  station,  is  responsible  for 
some  of  the  natural  curiosities  in  the  neighborhood.  It  has 
quarried  for  itself  a  natural  bridge,  near  Marianna,  and  a 
large  cave  is  jjart  of  the  same  formation. 

Chijyola  Spring,  among  the  most  remarkable  in  the  State, 
bursts  with  great  force  through  a  rocky,  cavernous  opening 
in  the  side  of  an  oak-covered  bluff",  sloiiing  toward  the  south- 
west. The  chasm  is  about  30  feet  long,  east  and  west,  and 
8  to  10  feet  wide.  Midway  of  its  length  it  is  nearly  halved 
by  a  submerged  fragment.  The  water  of  this  spring,  like 
that  of  those  described  elsewhere,  is  crystal  clear,  but  the 
rush  of  the  current  prevents  leisurely  examination  from  a 
boat.    The  outlet  is  a  f nll-srrown  stream  nearlv  100  feet  wide 


MARIANNA— DB  FUNIAK  SPRINGS.  353 

and  8  feet  deep,  which  joins  Chipola  River  ten  miles  dis- 
tant, not  far  above  the  railroad  crossing. 

Long  Moss  Spring  pours  out  a  good-sized  creek  with  such 
violence  that  fragments  of  stone  thrown  into  it  will  not  sink. 
The  whole  watershed  of  the  Chipola  in  this  vicinity  is  full 
of  remarkable  springs,  caves,  and  sinks,  which  cannot  be 
depended  upon  to  remain  the  same  for  any  specified  time. 
Early  in  the  present  century,  the  Apalachicola  burst  through 
into  the  Chipola,  forming  the  Dead  Lake  of  Calhoun  County 
(page  12). 

232.     De  Funiak  Springs,  Walton  County  (O.  H.). 

Population,  2,000. 

TloT-E-L.— Hotel  Chautauqtta,  $2  a  day. 

Railroad. — L.  &  N.  Ed.;  east,  to  Pensacola  (80  miles) ;  west,  to  River  Junc- 
tion (82  miles). 

LivKRY.— Saddle  horses,  12  a  day.  Single  teams,  $3.  Double  teams,  $5. 
Guides,  $1.50  a  day. 

A  nearly  circular  lake,  which  is,  in  fact,  a  sj^riug,  led  to 
the  establishment  of  the  county  seat,  and  of  the  prettiest 
modern  village  in  West  Florida. 

The  lake  is,  according  to  local  authorities,  64  feet  deep 
and  300  feet  above  tide-water.  On  the  bluffs  surround- 
ing the  lake  are  the  assembly  buildings  and  many  cottages 
of  residents.  A  plank  walk,  well  shaded  by  the  forest  trees, 
follows  the  line  of  houses  overlooking  the  lake.  Here,  too, 
are  branches  of  the  State  Normal  School,  a  United  States 
Experiment  Station,  and  Presbyterian  and  Methodist 
Churches.  Cotton  and  sugar-cane  are  successfully  raised, 
and  olive-trees  grow  in  the  open  air.  Tobacco  culture  and 
cigar-making,  and  brick-yards  are  among  the  promising  in- 
dustries, but  they  will  not  be  allowed  to  mar  the  beauty  of 
the  place.  De  Funiak  stands  in  the  healthful  high  pine  re- 
gion, but  as  the  laud  slopes  to  tlie  southward  the  pines  give 
way  to  a  hammock  growtli  which  extends  to  the  belt  of  fiat- 
woods  along  the  coast. 

The  "  Florida  Chautauqua  Assembly,"  referred  to  above, 
is  intended  to  afford  in  a  mild  climate  the  advantages  of- 
fered by  the  famous  Northern  institution.  Full  information 
may  be  had  by  addressing  the  Secretary  at  De  Funiak  Springs. 
23 


354  MILTON— PENSACOL  A. 


233.     Milton,  Santa  Rosa  County  (C  H.). 

Population,  1,200. 

I{ailr(jai). — L.  &  N.  Rd.  (Pensaco'.a  Division) ;  southwest,  to  Pensacola  (20 
miles)  ;  east,  to  River  Junction  (141  miles). 

One  of  the  old  towns  of  West  Florida,  retaining  many  of 
the  traditional  features  of  Southern  society.  The  streets  are 
well  shaded  by  fine  trees,  and  with  its  pretty  white  houses, 
schools,  and  churches  it  offers  a  most  attractive  api^earance. 

Blackwater,  just  across  the  river,  resembles  it  in  some  re- 
spects. Both  places  are  largely  interested  in  the  lumber 
business.  On  October  25,  1864,  Pensacola  being  held  by 
the  Federals,  and  Milton  by  a  small  detachment  of  Confed- 
erates, an  expedition  was  fitted  out  at  Barancas  to  proceed 
up  Black  Water  River  and  procure  a  supply  of  lumber,  of 
which  there  were  large  quantities  along  shore.  Through  a 
misapprehension  of  orders  the  original  plan  of  landing  at 
Pierce's  Mill  was  abandoned,  and  the  party,  about  700 
strong,  proceeded  to  Milton  where  they  landed  and  had  a 
brisk  skirmish  with  the  Confederates  who  were  stationed 
there,  driving  them  out  of  the  town  and  holding  the  place 
till  the  next  day,  when,  after  destroying  some  Confederate 
stores,  the  detachment  returned  to  Barancas. 


210.     Pensacola,  Escambia  County  (C.  H.). 

Population  (1890),  11,751. 

Lat.  30°  23'  N.    Lonor.  87"  12'  W. 

HoTSL. — Tlie  Continental,  $3  to  $4  a  day. 

Railroads.— Louisville  &  Nastiville  (Pensacola  Division) ;  east,  to  River 
Junction,  161  miles  (7  h.  50  min.) ;  Pensacola  &  Atlantic  Rd.  to  Mobile,  New 
Orleans,  etc.;  Pensacola,  Fla.,  &  Perdido  Rd.;  west,  to  ilillview,  10  miles. 

History. 

Pkobablt  the  first  European  crew  to  sail  into  the  magnifi- 
cent harbor  of  Pensacola  was  that  of  Miruelo,  a  Spanish 
pilot,  who  found  the  natives  friendly,  traded  off  his  cargo 
of  trinkets  for  silver  and  gold,  and  returned  peacefully  to 
Cuba  (1516).  Next  some  of  Hernando  de  Soto's  men  re- 
discovered the  harbor  about  1536,  but  no  use  was  made  of 


PENSACOLA.  355 

it,  and  in  September,  1558,  Guido  de  Labazares,  after  a 
thorough  examination  of  the  coast  with  a  view  to  permanent 
colonization,  decided  in  favor  of  Pensacola  Bay,  which  he 
named  Filijjina,  and  reported  accordingly  to  his  chief,  the 
Governor  of  Cuba. 

A  strong  expedition  was  sent  out  under  Tristan  deLuna  in 
1559,  with  a  view  to  permanent  settlement  at  Pensacola,  but 
he  went  instead  to  Ichuse  (Santa  Eosa  Bay),  where  he  lost 
everything  in  a  hurricane.  Miruelo  named  the  bay  after 
himself  ;  Tristan  called  it  Santa  Maria  in  1558,  and  in  1693 
Don  Andre  de  Pes  added  "  de  Galva,"  in  honor  of  the  then 
Governor  of  Mexico.  The  eastern  part  of  the  bay  is  still 
charted  as  St.  Maria  de  Galvez,  but  this  de  Galvez  is  another 
man  altogether,  not  born  till  nearly  a  century  later. 

The  present  name  Pensacola  is  probably  that  of  the  Indian 
tribe  inhabiting  the  vicinity.  It  api:)ears  on  Delisle's  map 
(1707),  and  was  probably  applied  to  the  surrounding  country 
by  the  Spaniards  for  many  years  before  that  time. 

In  1696  Don  Andre  d'  Arriola  took  possession,  and  built 
Fort  San  Carlos,  whose  ruins  may  still  be  seen  near  Fort 
Barancas.  He  made  the  beginnings  of  a  permanent  settle- 
ment, but  everything  was  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1719, 
and  during  the  better  part  of  that  year  the  place  was  a  bone 
of  contention,  the  Spanish  in  the  end  coming  ofif  second  best, 
and  leaving  the  French  in  possession  till  1722,  when  dii^lo- 
macy  stepped  in  and  confirmed  tjie  Spanish  claim.  The 
town  was  soon  rebuilt  on  Santa  Eosa  Island,  near  where  Fort 
Pickens  now  stands.  A  print  made  from  a  sketch  taken  in 
1743,  and  published  in  Jeffries'  narrative,  shows  a  stockaded 
fort,  a  government  building,  a  church  and  thirty  or  more 
lesser  structures. 

In  1754  a  hurricane,  in  conjunction  with  a  high  tide, 
proved  the  insecurity  of  the  locality,  and  the  i:):esent  site 
was  selected.  In  1763  Florida  was  ceded  to  the  Englisli, 
and  nearly  all  the  Spanish  residents  removed  to  Cuba. 
France  and  Spain,  however,  made  friends  in  1781,  and  tinder 
Don  Galvez,  of  Louisiana,  and  the  Spanish  Admiral  Solano 
laid  siege  to  the  British  garrison  in  Pensacola.  The  place 
was  strongly  defended  by  two  well  manned    forts,   St.  Mi- 


356  PENS  A  COLA. 

cliael  and  St.  Bernard,  but  the  accidental  explosion  of  a 
magazine  compelled  surrender  after  twelve  days  of  bom- 
bardment. A  very  creditable  Spanish  engraving  of  1783 
commemorates  this  triumph  over  the  Engiisli,  and  with 
free,  artistic  license  represents  the  instant  of  the  explo- 
sion. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  St.  Michael  are  still  to  be  seen  near  the 
head  of  Palafox  Street.  This  surrender  occurred  May  9, 
1781.  Two  years  afterward  Spanish  possession  was  con- 
firmed by  re-cession  on  the  part  of  England,  and  Pensacola 
saw  no  more  powder  burned  in  earnest  until  1814,  when 
with  Spanish  consent  the  English  under  Colonel  Nichols  gar- 
risoned the  forts  at  Barancas  and  Santa  Rosa  and  hoisted 
the  British  flag.  England  being  then  at  war  with  the  Uni- 
ted States,  Nichols  issued  a  proclamation  urging  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Louisiana  and  Kentucky  to  join  his  standard.  In- 
dian massacres  were  incited  along  the  border,  and  summary 
measures  were  necessary.  This  was  in  August.  On  Novem- 
ber 6th  General  Andrew  Jackson,  with  5,000  Tennesseeans 
and  a  number  of  Indian  allies,  was  before  Pensacola.  Ee- 
connoitring  parties  were  fired  upon  from  the  forts,  and 
Jackson  prepared  to  storm  the  place.  By  clever  manage- 
ment he  carried  the  outworks,  and  gained  possession  of  the 
town  with  trifling  loss  on  November  lith. 

The  Spanish  governor  jjromised  the  unconditional  surren- 
der of  the  forts  in  return  for  a  promise  of  safety  for  the 
town,  but  during  the  succeeding  night  the  British  aban- 
doned St.  Michael  and  St.  Bernard,  blew  up  Barancas,  and 
escaped  to  sea.  Jackson  withdrew  after  occupying  the 
place  for  two  days,  and  marched  eastward,  where  he  subdued 
the  Indians  and  remained  in  the  vicinity  to  preserve  the 
peace.  In  1818  ho  was  again  obliged  to  occupy  Pensacola, 
to  show  the  Spaniards  that  he  was  in  earnest.  This  and 
other  proceedings  of  an  energetic  character  on  the  i:)art  of 
Jackson  opened  the  eyes  of  Spain  to  the  American  idea  of 
"  manifest  destiny,"  and  in  1819  negotiations  were  begun 
which  resulted  in  cession  to  the  United  States. 

Pensacola  was  too  strong  to  sufier  materially  during  the 
Seminole  wars,  and   thanks  to  her  fine  harbor,  which  was 


PEXSACOLA.  357 

made  an  important  naval  station,  in  1830  she  became  the 
most  considerable  seaport  in  Florida. 

Florida  passed  her  Ordinance  of  Secession  on  Jannary  10, 
1861.  By  that  time  the  movement  at  the  South  had  devel- 
oped great  strength,  while  divided  counsels  and  an  uncertain 
policy  at  the  North  still  prevented  summary  measures  for  the 
suppression  of  armed  rebellion.  The  garrison  of  Fort  Bar- 
ancas  during  the  winter  of  1860-61  consisted  of  a  company 
of  the  First  Artillery,  forty-eight  men,  commanded  by  Lieu- 
tenant A.  J.  Slemmer.  Throughout  the  winter  the  attitude 
of  the  authorities  of  Florida  and  Alabama  had  become  more 
and  more  threatening,  until,  on  January  8,  1861,  Lieutenant 
Slemmer  notified  General  Scott,  Commander-in-Chief  at 
Washington,  that  the  danger  was  imminent.  That  same 
night  a  company  of  about  twenty  men  approached  Fort 
Barancas,  hoping  to  take  possession  unopposed.  A  ser- 
geant's guard  had,  however,  been  stationed  in  the  fort  and 
when  this  was  discovered  the  intending  assailants  retired. 
The  incident  was  enough  to  show  the  danger  of  delay  and 
on  January  10th,  Lieutenant  Slemmer  removed  his  command 
to  Fort  Pickens,  where  he  could  offer  formidable  resistance 
even  with  the  small  force  at  his  disposal.  Captain  (after- 
ward Commodore)  James  Armstrong,  U.S.N.,  a  Kentuckian 
by  birth,  was  in  command  at  the  Navy  Yard,  having  two 
vessels  at  hand,  the  Supply,  Captain  Walker,  and  the  Wyan- 
dotte, Captain  Berryman,  with  a  few  men  available  for  de- 
fence. From  Lieutenant  Slemmer's  report  of  the  transfer  of 
troops  and  munitions  it  is  apparent  that  he  distrusted  Cap- 
tain Armstrong's  loyalty.  At  all  events  he  failed  to  secure 
much-needed  assistance  from  the  Navy  Yard,  but  eventually 
effected  the  transfer  of  his  command  and,  at  cost  of  arduous 
labor  day  and  night,  put  the  fort  in  passable  condition  for 
defence. 

On  the  morning  of  January  12th  the  surrender  of  the  Navy 
Y''ard  was  demanded  by  Colonel  "William  H.  Chase,  com- 
manding some  twelve  hundred  Confederate  trooiDs,  and 
Captain  Armstrong  capitulated,  effectual  resistance  being  ob- 
viously impossible.  The  few'  men  stationed  at  the  yard  were 
mustered  near  the  flag-staff  when  the  Confederates  marched 


358  PENSACOLA. 

in  unopijosed,  and  Lieutenant  Renshaw  ordered  William 
Conway,  a  seaman  grown  old  in  the  service,  to  haul  down 
the  flag  in  token  of  surrender. 

The  habit  of  obedience  is  strong  in  a  man-of-war's  man, 
but  Conway  was  equal  to  the  occasion.  He  is  said  to  have 
used  tolerably  strong  language  toward  his  suiaerior  officer 
in  refusing  to  obey  this  unprecedented  command.  Conway's 
faithfulness  under  exceptionally  trying  circumstances  was 
promptly  recognized  and  rewarded  by  Congress.  But  there 
were  plenty  of  hands  ready  to  do  the  service,  and  presently 
the  anxious  little  garrison  at  Fort  Pickens  sorrowfully 
watched  the  United  States  ensign  lowered  from  the  Navy 
Yard  flag-staff  while  the  Confederate  colors  rose  to  its  place. 

After  the  surrender  of  the  Navy  Yard,  Lieutenant  Slem- 
mer  was  reinforced  by  the  31  faithful  seamen  who  refused  to 
desert  their  colors,  and  now  had  82  men  all  told,  including 
nominal  non-combatants,  to  defend  a  fort  designed  for  a  gar- 
rison of  1,200  men.  The  same  evening,  just  after  retreat,  a 
deiDutation  of  Confederate  officers,  headed  by  Captain  Ean- 
dolph,  presented  themselves  at  the  gate  of  Fort  Pickens, 
asked  for  the  commanding  officer  and  made  a  demand  for 
the  surrender  of  the  fort  in  the  name  of  the  States  of  Florida 
and  Alabama.  Slemmer  replied  that  he  was  there  under  the 
orders  of  the  President  and  that  he  recognized  no  right  of 
any  governor  to  demand  a  surrender  of  United  States  prop- 
erty. 

On  January  15th  Colonel  Chase  made  a  formal  demand 
for  the  surrender,  jDresenting,  in  temperate  and  courteous 
but  forcible  terms,  the  futility  of  resistance.  Slemmer  an- 
swered as  before,  saying  that  while  he  dejirecated  bloodshed 
he  would  defend  his  post  until  compelled  to  surrender. 
In  the  meantime  the  little  garrison  had  been  working  all  day 
strengthening  the  defences,  lying  by  the  guns  at  night  on  the 
rain-swept  parapet,  often  called  to  quarters  by  false  alarms, 
and  wellnigh  exhausted.  Not  a  word  of  complaint  was  ut- 
tered, however,  and  under  exceptionally  trying  circum- 
stances a  vigilant  watch  was  maintained  until  eventually  re- 
inforcements came  from  the  North.  Much  credit  is  due  to 
Colonel  Chase,  whose  i^rudent  course  undoubtedly  restrained 


PENSACOLA.  359 

precipitate  action  on  the  part  of  the  half-disciplined  troops 
then  under  his  command.  He  was  a  native  of  Massachusetts 
and  a  graduate  of  West  Point.  Until  he  resigned  from  the 
army  in  1856  he  was  an  officer  of  the  engineer  corps,  and  the 
forts  at  Pensacola  were  largely  constructed  under  his  suj^er- 
vision.  Knowing  the  strength  of  the  works,  he  used  all  his 
influence  to  prevent  an  attack  which  must  have  resulted  in  a 
bloody  rei^ulse.  Colonel  Chase  took  no  further  active  part 
in  the  rebellion,  being  probably  somewhat  distrusted  by  the 
Confederate  authorities  because  of  his  Northern  birth.  He 
died  in  Pensacola  in  1870. 

The  U.  S.  steamship  Brooklyn,  with  a  company  of  the  First 
Artillery  under  Captain  Vodges,  had  arrived  off  Fort  Pickens 
on  January  6th,  but  found  orders  forbidding  the  reinforce- 
ment of  the  garrison  pending  negotiations  for  a  compro- 
mise with  the  seceding  States  then  in  progress  at  "Washing- 
ton. Influential  Floridians  represented  that  should  Pickens 
be  reinforced  it  would  be  impossible  to  prevent  an  attack 
from  the  somewhat  lawless  and  undisciplined  levies  that 
garrisoned  the  shore  batteries. 

Until  March  this  state  of  things  continued,  but  by  the  13th 
of  that  month  the  authorities  at  Washington  decided  that 
further  delay  was  useless,  and  ordered  the  reinforcement  of 
Pickens.  The  order,  however,  was  never  received,  and  the 
Confederates  continued  to  erect  batteries  commanding  the 
fort  and  its  approaches. 

On  the  12th  of  March,  negro  slaves  began  to  make  their 
escape  from  the  mainland,  under  the  impression  that  Fort 
Pickens  would  be  a  refuge  for  them.  Under  the  circum- 
stances Lieutenant  Slemmer,  having  but  a  limited  supply  of 
provisions,  could  only  return  them  as  soon  as  practicable  to 
the  city  authorities. 

In  the  meantime  the  Confederate  Government  had  been 
organized  at  Montgomery,  Ala.,  and  General  Braxton 
Bragg,  who  had  lately  resigned  his  commission  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  United  States,  superseded  Colonel  Chase  in 
command  of  the  Confederate  forces  at  Pensacola. 

It  was  determined  by  April  1,  1861,  that  all  forts  re- 
maining in  the  possession  of  the  United  States  must  be  fully 


360  PENSACOLA. 

reitiforced.  Colonel  Harvey  Brown  was  assigned  to  tlie 
command  of  all  United  States  troops  in  Florida.  During 
the  night  of  Aj^'il  12th,  a  strong  force  of  soldiers,  marines, 
and  seamen  was  landed  on  Santa  Rosa  Island  under  cover 
of  darkness,  and  at  last  this  important  post  was  secure  to  the 
United  States.  Subsequently  a  regiment  of  New  York  volun- 
teers, "Billy  Wilson's  Zouaves,"  was  sent  from  the  North 
and  placed  in  camp  on  the  island,  east  of  Fort  Pickens. 

On  April  26th,  according  to  a  contemporary  newspaper, 
Bragg's  forces  numbered  8,000,  and  a  semi-circle  of  fortifica- 
tions had  been  thrown  up  on  the  main  land,  extending  from 
the  Navy  Yard  to  Fort  MacEae.  The  summer  passed  without 
open  hostilities,  but  on  October  9tli,  the  Confederates  took 
the  initiative,  landing  a  force  of  1,200  men  and  attacking  the 
Zouave  camp  a  mile  east  of  Fort  Pickens.  The  first  shots 
were  fired  about  2  a.m.  and  the  attack  was  successful  at 
first,  dire  confusion  resulting  before  the  regiment  could  be 
formed.  Two  companies  of  regulars  were  sent  from  the  fort, 
and  Wilson,  having  gotten  his  men  in  hand,  the  enemy  was 
soon  driven  to  his  boats.  The  Federal  loss  was  U  killed, 
53  wounded  and  missing.  That  of  the  Confederates,  21 
killed,  60  wounded  and  missing.  The  camp  of  the  Zouaves 
was  fired,  and  almost  wholly  destroyed. 

On  November  22,  1861,  fire  was  opened  from  Fort  Pickens 
upon  the  Confederate  works  on  the  mainland,  and  the 
frigates  Niagara  and  Richviond  drew  in  as  near  as  possible 
and  devoted  their  attention  mainly  to  Fort  MacRae  and  the 
adjoining  batteries.  The  Confederate  batteries  responded, 
and  an  artillery  duel  was  kept  up  for  two  days.  The  pur- 
pose of  the  Federal  gunners  was  to  destroy  the  stores  and 
workshops  at  the  Navy  Yard,  and  do  as  much  damage  as 
possible  to  the  Confederate  batteries.  A  number  of  buildings 
were  knocked  to  pieces  by  the  shot  and  shell,  and  the  town 
of  Warrenton  was  greatly  damaged,  being  in  the  direct 
line  of  fire.  The  loss  of  life  on  both  sides  was  trifling,  as  is 
invariably  the  case  in  artillery  duels  where  guns  are  jiroperly 
protected. 

At  11.30  P.M.,  May  8,  1862,  the  Confederates  abandoned 
their  posts  in  the  neighborhood  of  Pensacola,  as  is  credibly 


PENSACOLA.  36i 

stated,  to  reinforce  Mobile,  An  attempt  was  made  by  them 
to  destroy  Fort  MacKae,  the  lighthouse,  and  the  buildings  iu 
the  Navy  Yard,  but  as  soon  as  their  design  was  evident  to 
the  commanding  officer  in  Fort  Pickens,  he  opened  fire  in 
the  hope  of  preventing  the  total  destruction  of  all  combus- 
tible public  property.  In  this  he  probably  succeeded,  for 
when  daylight  came  it  was  found  that  several  buildings  at 
the  Navy  Yard  remained  standing,  though  preparations  had 
been  made  to  fire  them.  Parts  of  Pensacola  were  likewise 
burned,  also  the  village  of  Warrenton,  near  the  Navy  Yaid. 

United  States  troops  took  possession  and  extinguished  the 
flames  where  jjossible,  and  hoisted  the  stars  and  stripes  once 
more  over  the  Navy  Yard.  As  soon  as  it  was  light  enotigh 
to  cross  the  bar,  some  of  the  blockading  squadron  went  up  to 
the  city  and  called  upon  the  authorities  to  surrender.  This 
was  not  accomplished  until  the  arrival  of  another  gun-boat 
made  it  imperative.  The  people  went  to  work  to  extinguish 
the  flames,  and  iu  the  course  of  a  few  hours  comparative 
order  was  restored.  No  serious  attempt  was  subsequently 
made  by  the  Confederates  to  regain  possession  of  these  posts. 

Excursions. — The  Forts  and  the  Navy  Yard.  Steamer 
from  Long  Wharf,  foot  of  Palafox  Street.  The  boat  stops 
at  the  Navy  Yard  at  night,  leaves  for  Pensacola  at  8  a.m.  and 
3  P.M.  Leaves  Pensacola  for  Navy  Yard  at  10  a.m.  and  5 
P.M.  (Fare  for  round  trip,  50c.)  The  same  boat  carries 
passengers  to  Forts  Pickens  and  MacRae,  if  desired.  There 
is  an  old  government  road  in  fair  condition  from  Pensacola 
to  the  Navy  Y'ard.  The  trip  down  the  bay  is  highly  enjoy- 
able. Ofi'the  wharves  is  usually  a  busy  scene,  a  large  fleet 
of  vessels  loading  lumber  from  rafts  alongside.  The  ship- 
ping interests  of  Pensacola  are  of  great  commercial  impor- 
tance. The  latest  accessible  returns  show  more  than  five 
hundred  entrances  and  clearances  of  vessels  annually,  with 
a  total  register  of  about  350,000  tons.  The  main  business 
is  in  lumber,  the  exports  amounting  yearly  to  about  140,- 
000,000  feet.  Besides  this  there  is  growing  up  a  large  ex- 
jDort  trade  in  coal  from  the  Alabama  mines,  for  which  tliere 
is  a  large  and  increasing  demand  in  the  West  Indies. 

The  wooded  jjoint  opposite  the  city,  Santa  Rosa  Park, 


362  PENSACOLA. 

separates  Pensacola  Bay  from  Santa  Rosa  Sound.  The 
opening,  Pas.s-  VEnte,  witli  the  vessels  at  the  quarantine  sta- 
tion, comes  in  sight  a  few  minutes  after  leaving  the  wharf. 
To  seaward  are  the  irregular  sand-dunes  of  Santa  Rosa 
Island,  with  Fort  Pickens  at  its  western  point,  and  the  yel- 
low walls  and  buildings  of  the  Navy  Yard  on  the  mainland 
opposite.  (See  historical  sketch  of  Pensacola.)  The  Navy 
Yard  is  an  immense  enclosure,  now  almost  deserted.  A  few 
officers  are  stationed  here,  with  enough  artificers  and  watch- 
men to  take  care  of  the  government  property.  Some  of  the 
officers'  quarters  were  burned  when  the  Confederate  troops 
abandoned  the  place,  but,  considering  the  artillery  fire  to 
which  they  were  exposed  for  two  days,  the  damage  was 
small.  Very  picturesque  and  quiet  is  the  old  yard  witli  its 
shaded  esplanade,  wharves  of  solid  masonry,  and  well-built 
shops,  all  crumbling  through  neglect;  for,  in  the  judgment 
of  the  authorities,  the  Pensacola  station  is  no  longer  of  prac- 
tical use  to  the  Navy. 

Fort  Barancas  and  the  lighthouse,  with  the  remains  of 
the  old  Spanish  fort,  are  within  easy  walking  distance  to  the 
westward.  A  company  of  artillery  is  usiially  stationed  at 
the  fort.  No  visitor  should  fail  to  walk  or  ride  through 
these  beautiful,  though  for  the  most  part  uneared  for, 
grounds.  No  guide  is  required.  The  visitor  may  wander 
at  will  through  the  extensive  works,  and  watch  as  long  as 
he  will  the  schools  of  mullet  playing  about  the  deserted 
wharves.  At  the  commandant's  office  at  the  Navy  Y'"ard, 
or  at  the  adjutant's  office  in  Fort  Barancas,  special  directions 
or  information  can  always  be  obtained. 

Pensacola  Bay  (see  map,  p.  28)  divides  into  three  smaller 
arms  about  10  miles  from  the  Gulf,  Santa  Maria  de  Galvez 
Bay  to  the  eastward,  and  Escambia  Bay  to  the  westward. 
The  latter  bay  is  11  miles  long,  and  4  miles  wide.  Into  it 
flows  Escambia  River  from  the  north,  receiving  numerous 
tributaries.  The  bordering  lands  are  in  general  low  and  fre- 
quently overflowed.  Santa  Maria  de  Galvez,  about  the  same 
size  as  Escambia,  subdivides  again  into  Blackwater  Bay, 
which  receives  a  river  of  the  same  name,  and  Cedar  Creek. 


PENSACOLA.  303 

This  arm  is  about  7  miles  by  2  luiles,  and  is  full  of  islands. 
Yellow  Water  River  falls  into  the  main  arm  of  the  Bay.  It 
is  navigable  for  small  craft  some  40  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Shoal  River,  crossed  by  the  railroad  about  20  miles  east  of 
Milton,  is  its  i^i'incipal  tributary. 

East  Bay,  the  easterly  subdivision  of  Pensacola  Bay,  is  a 
fine  body  of  water,  deep,  sheltered,  and  aflbrding  excellent 
anchorage.  It  is  about  7  miles  long,  narrowing  at  the  head 
into  a  small  creek.  On  the  southeast  it  is  connected  with 
Sanjta  Eosa  Sound,  Choctawhatchee  Bay,  and  the  Gulf 
through  Pass  VEste. 

Big  Bayou  is  an  arm  of  Pensacola  Bay,  1|  mile  above 
Tartar  Point. 

Bayou  Chico  is  a  jiretty  land-locked  sheet  of  water,  for- 
merly utilized  as  a  harbor  for  small  craft.  On  its  shores 
was  Camj)  Clinch,  during  the  state  of  quasi  war  with  Spain 
(1814-1818). 

Bayou  Texar  falls  into  the  Escambia  Bay  a  mile  above 
Pensacola. 

Perdido  Bay  (map,  p.  28),  into  which  flows  a  river  of  the 
same  name,  separates  Florida  from  Alabama  on  the  west. 
It  is  a  land-locked  sheet  of  water  with  a  narrow,  crooked 
outlet,  and  a  shifting  bar  with  not  more  than  7  feet  at  low 
tide.  The  bay  itself,  however,  lias  a  considerable  dejjth, 
is  30  miles  long,  and  from  2  miles  to  6  miles  wide.  The 
shores  are  in  many  places  quite  high,  composed  of  clay 
bluffs,  and  covered  with  an  almost  imbroken  forest  of  pines. 
The  river  is  navigable  for  small  steamers  about  7  miles  from 
its  mouth.  It  rises  in  Alabama,  and  is  a  good  mill-stream. 
Both  river  and  bay  abound  with  fish.  A  western  arm  of  the 
bay  is  called  La  Lance,  an  indication  that  we  are  nearing  a 
region  first  settled  by  French.  Spanish  names  are  almost 
the  invariable  rule  in  Florida,  but  French  names  predomi- 
nate west  of  Perdido  Bay,  and  the  French  tongue  is  still 
largely  spoken. 


J04  THK   GULF    COAST    OF    WEST   FLORIDA. 


250.    The  Gulf  Coast  of  West  Florida. 

From  Perdido  Bay  to  Cedar  Key  the  eoast  sweeps  in  two 
great  curves  with  capes  San  Bias  and  St.  George  between 
them.  There  is  no  continuous  outer  line  of  islands,  though 
there  are  very  extensive  and  beautiful  disconnected  bays  at 
short  intervals  as  far  east  as  Dog  Island.  Beyond  this  the 
bays  disappear,  and  from  the  St.  Mark's  River  to  Cedar  Key 
there  is  no  shelter  except  for  boats  of  very  light  draft  which 
can  find  their  way  into  the  many  streams  and  inlets. 

ChoctaiDhatchee  Bay  (see  map,  p.  100)  lies  east  and  west 
■within  its  outlying  islands,  about  40  miles,  with  a  width  of  7 
miles  to  15  miles,  and  from  6  feet  to  12  feet  of  water.  Nav- 
igation for  vessels  drawing  more  than  6  feet  is  very  doubtful, 
since  the  depth  of  water  is  much  affected  by  storms,  and 
many  bars  extend  far  out  into  the  bay.  The  always  trust- 
worthy sharjiie  will  however  slide  safely  over  most  of  them. 
The  shores  along  the  eastern  part  of  the  bay  are  low,  and 
largely  bordered  with  reeds  and  grass.  Farther  to  the 
westward  the  land  is  higher,  with  frequent  shell-hammocks, 
pine  barrens,  and  live-oak  woods.  The  Choctmi-Jialchee- River 
is.the  principal  fresh-water  tributary  of  this  bay.  It  rises  in 
Alabama  about  150  miles  from  tide-water,  and  is  navigable 
about  80  miles.  The  main  tributary  is  Pea  River.  The  last 
named  is  really  the  larger  of  the  two  streams.  The  confluence 
is  near  the  Florida  line.  Euchee  Creek  enters  from  the  west- 
ward 25  miles  from  the  mouth,  and  Sandy  Creek  about  4 
miles.  From  the  westward  come  Holms,  Big  Bar?-en,  and 
Pond  Creeks,  the  first  named  navigable  at  all  times  as  far  as 
Big  Spring,  and  to  Shackleford,  15  miles  farther,  during 
average  high  water. 

Aliqiia  River  rises  among  the  "  knobs  "  of  Walton  County, 
springing  almost  full-grown  from  the  ground.  Its  total 
length  is  about  25  miles,  and  it  is  navigable  15  miles.  It 
empties  into  Choctawhatchee  Bay. 

St.  Andrew's  Bay  (map,  p.  102)  has  18  or  20  feet  of  water 
on  the  bar,  good  anchorage,  and  jierfect  shelter  from  all 
•winds.     The  bay  is  very  irregular  in  shape,  stretching  its 


THE  GULP  COAST   OF   WEST   FLORIDA.  365 

arms  \\p  iuto  the  country  to  the  N.  W.  and  S.  E.  for  30  miles. 
Hammock  Island  guards  the  entrance  from  the  Gulf. 

On  the  1st  and  2d  of  December,  1863,  a  destructive  raid 
was  made  by  a  detail  of  men  from  the  gun-boat  Restless  along 
St.  Andrew's  Bay,  the  object  being  to  put  an  end  to  the  salt- 
works, public  and  private,  from  which  the  Confederacy 
largely  drew  its  supplies.  Nearly  two  hundred  establishments, 
large  and  small,  were  broken  up,  according  to  Eear  Admiral 
Bailey's  report.  The  town  of  St.  Andrew's  was  shelled  and, 
taking  fire,  was  partly  burned.  A  very  large  amount  of  Con- 
federate salt  and  stores  was  thus  destroyed.  On  January  27th 
following,  another  similar  expedition  ascended  the  river 
above  St.  Andrew's,  and  completed  the  work  of  destruction 
by  breaking  up  some  ninety  more  salt-works. 

Wetappo  River  has  its  source  in  \\'ashiugton  County,  west 
of  the  Chipola.  For  twenty  miles  it  twists  and  turns  in  every 
imaginable  direction.  For  the  last  five  miles  before  falling 
into  St.  Andrew's  Bay  it  is  less  tortuous,  receiving  the  S.  E. 
Branch.     The  branch  is  easily  navigable. 

St.  Joseph's  Bay  (map,  p.  12)  has  a  wide  entrance  from  the 
northwest,  with  17  feet  of  water  on  the  bar.  Between  False 
Cape  and  the  mainland,  however,  there  is  a  "middle 
ground  "  with  9  feet  of  water  in  some  places.  The  main  bay 
is  7  miles  to  8  miles  wide,  and  2  miles  long,  its  major  axis 
running  nearly  north  and  south.  Xear  the  southeast  end  of 
the  bay  is  a  fine  island  covered  with  a  heavy  grove  of  live- 
oak,  cedar,  palms,  and  the  usual  hammock  growth  of  the 
Gulf  Coast.  The  crooked  island  that  forms  the  bay  reaches 
well  out  to  sea,  forming  Cape  San  Bias.  Elsewhere,  the 
sand  is  blown  up  into  fantastic  dunes  behind  which  the  pine 
forest  has  secured  a  foothold,  and  serves  as  a  landmark  to 
sailors  long  before  the  low-lying  shore  can  be  seen.  San 
Bias  light  stands  on  the  south  jjoint  of  the  cape  in  Lat.  29° 
40'  N.,  Long.  85°  21'  W.  The  light  was  established  in  1847 
but  abandoned  in  1885,  and  the  present  iron  skeleton  struc- 
ture erected.  The  ruins  of  the  old  tower  and  oil  room  are 
still  standing  300  yards  from  the  end  of  the  cape  in  8  feet 
of  water.  The  present  tower  is  98  feet  high.  The  light 
flashes  red  and  white  alternately  at  intervals  of  30  seconds. 


366  THE  GULF  COAST  OF  WEST  FLORIDA. 

It  is  visible  W^  nantical  miles.  A  dangerous  slioal  extends 
5  or  6  miles  southerly  from  the  caije. 

Aprdachicolii  Bcv/  (see  mai?,  p.  30)  is  formed  by  the  islands 
of  St.  Vincent  and  St.  George,  is  30  miles  long,  and  averages 
8  miles  wide.  There  is  generally  14  feet  of  water  on  the 
bar.  St.  Vincent's  Island,  defining  the  bay  on  the  west,  is 
roughly  speaking,  an  isosceles  triangle  in  shape,  nearly  10 
miles  on  its  longer  sides.  It  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth 
of  magnolias,  live-oaks,  and  palms,  and  much  of  its  surface 
is  green  with  a  natural  growth  of  grass.  Fine  springs  of 
fresh-water  are  found  on  the  island,  and  a  considerable 
stream  flows  into  the  bay  on  the  eastern  shore.  St.  George's 
island,  forming  the  sound  of  that  name,  stretches  for  40 
miles  along  the  coast,  generally  in  a  northeast  direction. 
The  seaward  side  is  blown  into  high  ]iarallel  saud-ridges, 
rising  in  some  places  30  to  40  feet  above  the  beach.  Be- 
hind these  are  pines  interspersed  with  occasional  hammock, 
shallows  and  marshes  forming  the  inland  shore.  Cape  St. 
George  light  is  a  white  tower  73  feet  high  showing  a  fixed 
white  light  visible  14  naiitical  miles  at  sea.  The  light  was 
established  in  1847.  It  stands  in  Lat.  29°  35'  18  '  N.,  Long. 
85°  02'  52"  W.  Sea-going  vessels  keep  8  miles  oflf  shore  on 
account  of  shoals  making  out  southward  from  the  cape. 

Dog  Island,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  sound,  forms 
an  admirable  harbor. 

Appalache  Bay  (see  map,  p.  98)  is  properly  only  a  bight  or 
irregularity  in  the  coast  aifording  no  safe  shelter  from  south- 
erly gales.  It  is  full  of  reefs  and  shoals,  twenty  miles  from 
shore,  and  though  navigation  between  these  is  safe  and  easy 
in  calm  weather,  they  are  very  dangerous  to  careless  na^'i- 
gators.  Vessels  drawing  8  feet  may  enter  Spanish  Hole, 
where  good  shelter  and  anchorage  is  found.  Apj)alache 
Bay  is  bordered  to  the  eastwartl  by  prairies. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.  367 

Miscellaneous  Inform jitioii. 

Oranges. 

The  wild  Florida  orange,  while  not  altogether  disagreea- 
ble to  the  tastei,  is  not  generally  regarded  as  edible.  It  is 
largely  cultivated  for  ornamental  purposes.  The  sweet  or 
China  orange  is  a  native  of  India.  Thence  it  was  oiiginally 
brought  by  the  Arabs,  and  found  its  way  to  Florida  by  way 
of  Spain  and  the  West  Indies. 

Orange-trees  grow,  thrive,  and  ripen  excellent  fruit  all 
over  Florida,  but  there  are  certain  districts  whei'e  they 
thrive  better  and  produce  finer  fruit  than  elsewhere.  The 
Orange  Belt  proper  is  within  the  limits  of  Middle  Florida, 
but  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  crop  is  grown  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  John's  River  as  far  north  as  Jacksonville. 
The  Indian  River  and  Halifax  River  regions  produce  oranges 
that  are  unsurpassed  in  beauty,  juiciness,  and  flavor,  and 
again  in  the  vicinity  of  Ocala  and  along  the  Gulf  Coast  the 
Homosassa  orange,  originating  on  Tiger  Island,  the  old 
Yulee  plantation,  is  among  the  choicest  varieties. 

The  question  as  to  the  best  soil  for  oranges  bids  fair  to 
remain  unsettled  for  many  a  year.  The  traveller  who  is  in- 
terested in  such  matter,  will  hear  the  most  contradictory  asser- 
tions from  equally  well-informed  and  trustworthy  experts.  In 
the  "  high  pine  "  region  he  will  be  told  that  while  fertilizers 
should  there  be  used  at  first,  the  tree^,  require  less  and 
less  as  time  goes  on,  and  after  a  few  years  require  little,  if  any- 
thing, more  than  is  supplied  by  nature  and  ordinary  care. 
In  the  low-lying  hammocks  along  the  Halifax  and  Indian 
Rivers  he  will  hear  that  there  no  fertilizers  whatever  are 
required,  that  in  fact  they  injure  the  trees  and  cause  the 
fruit  to  deteriorate.  So,  too,  on  the  high  hammocks,  and 
even  among  "flat  woods,"  he  will  find  orange-growers  who 
are  prepared  to  demonstrate  that  no  other  lands  can  produce 
equally  fine  oranges. 

The  only  fair  inference  is  that  all  these  difi"erent  condi- 
tions are  good,  each  in  its  own  way.  As  to  which  soil  or 
which  district  produces  the  finest  fruit,  or  which  particular 


308  MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 

kind  of  fruit  is  finest,  individual  preferences  or  prejudices 
must  govern.  Among  the  most  famous  orange  groves  are 
the  following :  The  Dummit  Grove  on  Indian  River,  near 
Hanlover,  Brevard  County ;  the  Harris  Grove,  near  Citra, 
Marion  County ;  the  Hart  Grove,  near  Palatka,  Putnam 
County  ;  the  Belair  Groves,  near  Sanford.  Orange  County ; 
the  Tiger  Tail  Island  Grove,  near  Homosassa,  Citrus 
County. 

The  Florida  orange  is  probably  the  finest  in  the  world,  as 
even  European  experts  are  beginning  to  acknowledge.  Its 
superiority  lies  in  the  thinness  of  its  skin,  rendering  it  easier 
to  eat  without  tasting  the  acrid  oil  as  with  the  thick-skinned 
varieties  ;  and  in  its  jieculiarly  abundant  juiciness,  and  deli- 
cious flavor.  These  qualities  are  especially  noted  in  semi- 
troj^ical  Florida,  where  occasional  light  frosts  seem  to  bene- 
fit rather  than  injure  the  trees  when  once  they  have  matured. 

In  Florida  orange-trees  begin  to  bear  eatable  fruit  at  5  to 
8  years  from  budding,  on  good  stock.  From  the  seed  they 
require  from  10  to  20  years,  and  in  any  case  are  not  certainly 
"  tnie  "  to  the  seed.  How  long  trees  will  live  and  flourish 
is  not  yet  certain,  since  the  oldest  known  specimens  in  Flor- 
ida are  not  more  than  50  years  old.  In  Spain  there  are 
orange-trees  with  an  authenticated  record  of  700  years,  and 
at  Hampton  Court,  in  England,  there  are  specimens  that 
liave  been  growing  under  glass  nearly  half  as  long. 

The  brownish  or  rusty  appeai'ance  of  many  Florida  oranges 
is  only  objectionable  because  it  detracts  from  the  beauty, 
and  therefore  from  the  market  value  of  the  fruit.  It  is 
caused  by  a  minute  insect  that  punctures  the  skin  so  that 
the  essential  oil  exudes  and  oxidizes  on  exposure  to  the  air. 
The  flavor  of  "rusty"  oranges  is  by  many  believed  to  bo 
better  than  that  of  the  jmve  golden  specimens.  Oranges 
generally  ripen  during  January  and  February,  and  will  hang 
upon  the  trees  in  perfect  condition  until  summer  is  well  ad- 
vanced. If  permitted  to  remain  on  the  trees,  however,  they 
are  subject  to  many  dangers  that  may  be  prevented  by 
gathering  and  storing. 

The  Florida  orange  crop  of  1889-90,  according  to  the 
trustworthy  returns  of  the  transportatioii  companies,  was,  in 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.  369 

round  numbers,  2,000,000  boxes.  This,  of  course,  represents 
only  the  amount  shipped  for  a  market,  and  does  not  include 
home  consumi:)tion. 

Lemons. 

Lemon-trees  are  rather  more  sensitive  to  cold  than  oranges, 
hence  they  cannot  be  regarded  as  a  safe  crop  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  State,  though  under  exceptional  conditions  they 
^vill  grow  up  to  the  Georgia  line.  They  require  a  dry  soil, 
and  will  not  grow  on  the  hammocks.  The  Florida  lemon 
does  not  yet  command  the  market.  It  has  the  reputation  of 
being  too  big,  too  thick-skinned,  and  not  satisfactory  in  flavor. 
All  these  faults  are  probably  due  to  lack  of  intelligent  culti- 
vation. It  is  believed  by  many  jjlanters  that  the  lemon  will 
at  no  very  distant  day  rival  the  orange  as  a  profitable  crop. 
Fine  lemon  groves  may  be  seen  in  Belair  County,  and  smaller 
ones  are  scattered  throughout  the  Orange  Belt. 

Ijimes. 

Limes  will  gi'ow  safely  and  well  under  ordinary  conditions 
south  of  Palatka,  and  in  favorable  localities  somewhat  far- 
ther north.  The  variety  common  in  Florida  is  a  native  of 
Mexico.  The  fruit  is  available  for  many  of  the  uses  that 
create  a  demand  for  lemons.  It  is  more  generally  used 
abroad  than  in  America,  but  is  steadily  gaining  favor. 
Limes  are  generally  raised  from  the  seed,  and  require  little 
care.  It  will  come  into  profitable  bearing,  say  3,000  limes 
to  a  tree,  in  about  twelve  years. 

Citrons. 

In  Florida  two  varieties  of  this  fruit  are  successfully  cul- 
tivated, namely,  the  orange  citron  and  the  lemon  citron.  Its 
value  arises  from  its  thick,  fragrant  rind,  which  is  preserved 
and  candied  for  the  use  of  cooks  and  confectioners.  The 
curing  process  has  only  of  late  been  perfected,  but  the 
Florida  product  is  now  making  its  way  in  the  home  mar- 
kets. 

24 


370  MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 

Grape  Fruit. 

This  is,  by  good  authority,  regarded  as  a  variety  of  the 
Shaddock,  but  its  habit  of  growth  is  peculiar,  hanging  in 
grape-like  bunches,  and  its  flavor  is  a  refreshing  combina- 
tion of  acidity,  bitterness,  and  grapes.  The  liking  for  it, 
like  that  for  fresh  figs,  has  often  to  be  acquired.  Grai)e 
fruit  is  becoming  quite  popular  in  the  Northern  markets, 
which  it  reaches  in  December  or  thereabout. 

Pineapples. 

The  successful  cultivation  of  pineapples  on  a  large  scale 
and  for  market  is  a  new  industry  in  Florida,  and  has  not 
yet  enacted  for  itself  a  regular  code  of  laws.  The  pine  is 
largely  an  air-plant.  It  thrives  on  third-class  pine  land  on 
the  bluffs  of  Indian  River,  and  on  the  coralline  keys  of  the 
far  south.  The  finest  existing  plantations  are  at  Eden, 
some  20  miles  above  Jupiter  Inlet,  on  Indian  River.  The 
pineai)iile  bears  fruit  once  and  then  dies,  "suckers"  spring- 
ing up  from  the  base  of  the  leaves  near  the  ground.  From 
these  suckers  the  plant  is  propagated,  as  also  from  the 
"  crests  "  of  the  leaves,  from  certain  tufts  called  "crown- 
lets,"  from  "slips,"  and  from  "eyes."  Indeed,  the  whole 
plant  fairly  bristles  with  regenerative  processes,  the  suckers 
being  generally  regarded  as  affording  the  best  and  surest 
growth.  Within  a  few  years  an  enormous  number  of  jjine- 
apples  will  be  grown  in  Florida.  The  demand  is  not  only 
for  table  use,  but  for  various  extracts  and  flavors  used  by 
confectioners. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION.  371 

The  Native  Races  of  Florida. 

At  the  time  of  its  discovery  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1513,  pe- 
ninsular Florida  appears  to  have  been  peopled  by  a  race  sim- 
ilar in  manners,  language,  and  customs  to  the  Lucayans 
of  Bahama  and  the  Caribs  of  the  West  Indian  and  Wind- 
ward Islands.  The  word  hammock,  frequently  used  in  this 
handbook,  and  meaning  land  whereon  hard  wood  grows,  is 
the  sole  survival  in  English  of  the  original  tongue.  These 
people  were  largely  agricultural,  were  bold  navigators,  and 
brave  warriors.  There  were  several  confederacies  within  the 
peninsula,  often  at  war  with  each  other,  but  generally  pre- 
serving their  indei^endence.  Such  were  the  provinces  of 
Tegesta  and  Caloosa  where  now  are  Dade,  Munroe,  and  Lee 
counties.  The  region  of  Tampa  Bay  was  Tocobaga,  and  op- 
posite, on  the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  St.  John's  River,  was  the 
dominion  of  Utina,  who  held  court  on  a  large  domiciliary 
mound  near  the  outlet  of  Lake  George.  Toward  the  north 
and  west  these  Carib  races  became  merged  in  the  Red 
Indian  type,  notably  the  Apalaches,  who  were,  even  in 
Soto's  time,  the  acknowledged  superiors  of  all  the  other 
tribes.  Their  territory  was  between  the  Suwannee  and  Ap- 
palachicola  Rivers.  Soto  found  them  almost  half  civilized, 
and  left  them  with  their  chief  towns  in  ashes  and  most  of 
their  warriors  slain. 

All  the  early  explorers  speak  admiringly  of  the  natio 
Floridian  races.  They  were  of  large  stature,  light  olive- 
brown  in  color,  and  given  to  tattooing  their  skins.  They 
were  very  intelligent,  ready  to  learn,  and  often  possessed  of 
courteous,  dignified  manners.  In  the  beginning  they  wore 
disposed  to  be  friendly  to  Europeans,  but  very  naturally 
resented  attempts  at  conquest,  and  proved  their  dauntless 
courage  on  many  a  hard-fought  field.  Early  in  the  eighteenth 
century  serious  dissensions  arose  among  the  Creeks  and 
Clierokees  of  Alabama,  and  under  the  leadership  of  one  Se- 
cotfee  a  strong  party  seceded,  invaded  the  Alachua  region, 
subjugated  the  surrounding  tribes,  whose  strength  had 
been  broken  by  the  Spanish  scourge,  and  became  known  as 
"  Seminoles,"  or   outlaws.      Other   northern    tribes,  as   the 


372  MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 

Yemassees  and  others  of  the  Creek  family,  followed  their 
example,  and  by  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century 
the  Seminoles  had  overran  the  State  and  the  native  Flori- 
dian  had  disappeared,  or  intermarried  to  an  extent  that  left 
few  traces  of  his  existence. 


Seminole  Words,  Phrases,  Names,  etc. 

For  the  following  list  of  words  and  their  meanings  the  au- 
thor is  indebted  to  memoranda  furnished  by  Mr.  Kirk 
Munroe,  in  addition  to  that  published  in  the  "Florida  An- 
nual; "  to  lists  and  chance  references  in  Sprague's  "Florida 
War,"  and  to  Indians  and  hunters  whose  versions,  if  some- 
times confusing,  have  in  general  verified  the  accuracy  of 
the  vocabulary.  So  far  as  known,  no  systematic  attempt 
has  ever  been  made  to  codify  this  language  beyond  imper- 
fect vocabularies  compiled  at  random,  as  in  the  present  in- 
stance. It  has  no  written  signs  save  rude  hieroglyphics,  has 
no  word  for  a  Supreme  Being,  and  apparently  no  conjuga- 
tions and  inflexions.  The  accent  falls  almost  invariably 
upon  the  final  syllables  Tcah,  2^ah,  nah,  and  the  like,  which 
one  is  tempted  to  regard  as  different  pronunciations  of  one 
and  the  same  word— an  article,  perhaps.  It  is  very  diflScult 
to  convey  or  obtain  a  translatable  idea  from  a  Seminole. 
Few  of  them  are  willing  to  impart  any  information  concern- 
ing themselves  or  their  language.  In  conversation  among 
themselves  they  iise  the  long,  clumsy  names  given  in  the 
vocabulary,  even  for  the  commonest  articles  of  every-day 
use. 


Alachua  (name  of  couuty).  Big  Jug, 

place  where  waters  go  down. 
Alligator,  Al-la-pat-tah. 
Alive,  A-lat-tchuni-pah. 
Ainerican,  Fat-shay-not-kah. 
Arm,  Tche-suk-pah. 
Astonishment,  expression  of,  I-ce-lah. 
Axe,  Pot-sas-nah. 


Bad  (adj.),  Hnl-wah. 

Bad  (no  good,  exclamation  of  con- 
tempt). Ho-lee-wah-gus. 

Bad(Thatisabadman), /s-<e-ft»?.i-wrtA- 
stciiay.  I  Bird,  Fus,  or,  Fns-wah. 

Ball,  Po-ko.  \  Bitter,  sour.  At-ma/i. 


Ball,  Come  and  play  ball,  Po-ko-tchah- 

liss-lchai/. 
Basket,  Tchmn-pah. 
Bat,  Snk-biil-hah. 
Bay-tree,  Is-to-riiik-ko. 
Beads,  Tchak-e-shah. 
Beads.  Kon-no-wah. 
Beads,  Ka-koo-sec  (Sliccosukee). 
Bear.  No-koo-see, 
Bed,  To-pah. 
Bed,  Pn-ta-kah. 
Bewildered.  B-soo-hah. 
Big  swamp,  Hay-u.p-pah. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


373 


Black,  Lvs-tee. 

Black  man,  Is-te-lus-tee. 

Black  water,  Wee-lus-tee  (a  ceremonial 

drink). 
Blanket,  Ah-tchee-tah. 
Blood,  Chat-tay. 
Blue,  .'•o-pafi. 
Boat  (see  Ship),  Pith-Jo. 
Book,  Sah-koo-tchee. 
Boy,  Tchee-paw-ncc. 
Branch  (creek),  Hat-tchu-tchee. 
Brave,  a  brave  man,  Is-te-han-naw- 

no-irah-mas-tchay. 
Breast   plate  or  Bracelet,  Tchal-luk- 

an-aic-vKih. 
Bread,  Tok-lee-kee. 
Brother,  Tchah-see. 
Brother  (young),  Tchee-tchah-see. 
Buck  (see  deer). 
Butterfly,  Tiif-oo-lah-pah. 
Buzzard,  Soo-lee. 

Camp,  Is-tah-ah-poo. 

Camp,  Tcho-ko. 

Canoe,  Pith-lo  (see  ship). 

Cannon,  It-tcha-kluk-ko. 

Cat-fish,  Tsa-Io. 

Cedar,  Ah-tchee-nah. 

Cider,  beer,  ifee-tok-see. 

Chair,  seat,  Ol-li-gah-tah. 

Chief,  Mik-ko. 

Cloak,  jacket,  Kah-pah. 

Cocoanut,  Tah-lah-so-kah, 

Come  here,  At-tess-tchaJc. 

Corn.  At-tehee. 

Com  dance,  Foo-skee-tah. 

Council  house,  Tim-pah-nah-kluk-ko. 

Council    house,    Mik-ko-et-shay    (the 

Isjne  stands  strong). 
Covering,  Huk-sah-kee. 
Cow,  Wah-kah  (Prob.  Spanish  Vacca). 
Crane  (sand  hill  crane),  Wah-too-lah. 
Crazy,  mad,  Had-jo. 
Crow,  Osh-hah-hah-nah. 
Cup,  Ah-loo. 

Curlew  (red),  Ah-lo-lo-tchah-iee. 
C)-press,  Ah-tchee-nah-ho. 

Dance  house,  E-pah-lah-kluk-kah. 

Dark,  Fo-not-tchah. 

Daughter,  Tchak-shos-tee. 

Day,  day  star  (see  to-day),  Xeth-lah. 

Day  after  to-morrow,  Pdk-see-ah-sah- 

mah. 
Day  after  the   day  after  to-morrow, 

Fok-see-ah-sah-mah-sat-ly. 
Deer,  E-tcho. 

buck,  E-tcho-han-aw-no-ivah. 

doe,  E-tcho-hot-kay. 

fawn,  E-tcho  is-tchay. 
Deer  fly,  S!o-no. 
Deer  skin  (dressed),  Tcho-see. 
Deer  skin  dresser,  Hee  lali. 
Dirt,  Foo-kee. 


Doe  (see  deer). 

Dog,  E-pah  or  E-fah. 

Dog  (big  dog),  Wus-lee. 

Don't  know,  Stoon-tish. 

Dove,  Fat-e-lcho-lee. 

Dress,  Hoo-nah. 

Drum  (fish,  also  probably  the  military 

drum  I,  Kax-ah-lal-ki. 
Duck,  Fut-tcho. 

English  duck,  Fiit-tcho-kliik-ko. 

Summer    duck,  Filt-tclio-tcfies-iee- 
kus. 

Eagle  (golden),  Tah-tchee-lah-7iee. 

Ear,  Hatch-ko. 

Earring,  Hatch-ko-tot-kah. 

Eat,  Hum-hux-tchay  (or  jay). 

Emathla  (Charley  Emathla  was  a  fa- 
mous chief),  leader. 

Englishman,  Met-ah-tchak-ul-kah. 

Eye,  IV/t-lah-icah. 

Everglades,  Fah-ha-yo-kee  (much 
grass  in  water). 

Fawn  (see  deer). 

Feather,  Tchak-tee-kah. 

Feather,  Toii-fah-fah. 

Fire,  Loot-kah. 

Fish,  2'o-tee-kah. 

Fire  fly,  Hock-tah-lat-kay. 

Ford,  Fil-lat-kah. 

Fort  (enclosure),  To-pee-kee. 

Frog,  Soo-pat-kah. 

Frock  or  skirt,  Hun-nah. 

Flute,  fife,  Fiff-pah. 

Girl,  Hock-to-tehee. 

Give,  give  me,  Ah-mu-tchah. 

Go,  or  I  go,  Hi-e-pas  {tehah,  some- 
times added). 

Good.  Hin-dl-stee. 

Good,  too  good,  Hin-dl-mah. 

Good-by,  Ilccp-ah-non-es-tchah. 

Good-morning  (I  am  here),  Ah-lah- 
kay-is-tchay. 

Good  I  It  is  well,  Hink-lah-mas- 
tchay. 

Not  good.   It  is  not  well,  Hull-wax- 
tchay. 

Gone,  all  gone,  ,^'ooks-tchah. 

Gopher  (land  turtle),  Ko-wee-kah. 

Grass,  Fah-kee. 

Green,  Ah-ko-lah  (Ocala  ?). 

Ground,  E-kun-nah. 

Gum-tree,  Hell-lo-kop-kee. 

Hair,  Gi-see. 

Half-breed  (of  a  mixed  race),  Mal-ee- 

tul-kah. 
Hammock,  Et-say-tchah. 

Scattered  hammocks,  Pil-lak-li-ka- 
ha. 
Hand,  In-kee. 
Hand,  Tc.hin-kee. 


or 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


Handkerchief,  E-no-chee-aw. 

Hat,  Kap-hah-to-kah. 

Hatchet,  I'ut-tehus-wah. 

Head,  E-kar. 

Hero.1,  Wah-ko. 

Horse,  E-tcho-lo-ko. 

House-fly,  Tchah-nah. 

Houses  (the  red  houses),  Tchu-tchu- 

tchat-te£. 
Husband,  E-hee  (also  an  expression 

of  affection). 
He  (pronoun),  Ts-iee. 
Hard,  Hun-ee-lnh. 

Very  hard,  Hun-ee-lah-raas-tchay. 
Heart,  Ef-fah-gah. 
High,  ui-uay. 

Hill,  E-kon-huU-wah  (tall  ground). 
How  are  you  (to  the  sick  only)  ?  Tchee- 

hell-lo-see-lee. 

I,  myseli;  Ah-ho-wah. 

I  do  not  understand,  Git-lo-sthah. 

Ice,  Hit-to-tay. 

Ibis,  Kat-kat-ah-ivah. 

Indian  (red  man),  Is-tee-tchat-tee. 

Icheepopkasassee  (name  of  a  place), 
a  place  where  deer  feed,  a  deer  pas- 
ture. 

Koehadjo  (a  famous  chief).  Mad  part- 
ridge. 
Knife,  Slaf-kah. 
Know  (I  don't  know),  Sien-to-see. 

Lake,  It-tee-ni-ah. 

Lake,  Wet-ee-kah. 

Lake,  Wee-pal- !o-hee-see. 

Leader,  E-mathlah. 

Leggings,  U-fe-e-tah-kah. 

Leggings  (lower),  Tak-full-wah. 

Lie,  It  is  a  lie  (literally,  that  fellow 

lies  much),  Is-tee-loik-say-tak-inas- 

tchay. 
He  lies,  Is-tez-lock-say. 
Light  (not  dark),  Sa-path-at-kee. 
Little  (diminutive).  Tehee. 
Little  boy,  Hun-nah-nu-tchee. 
Little  girl,  Is-tah-tchee. 


Magician,  Is-tee-hiil-wah. 
Magnolia,      0-kee-tvk-su, 

kluck-ko. 
Man,  Han-nah-icah. 
Mantle,  Kap-pah-klut-ko. 
Maple,  Hah-no. 
Match,  E-sah-tooU-kah. 
Medicne  bag,  Hal-ist-chaio-ioay. 
Mile,  distance,  Ah-kas-kah. 
Mirror,  Stok-hiteh-kah. 
Moccassin  (shoe),  Stal-lah-pee-kah 
Moccassin  (snake),  Wee-hat-kay. 
Mocking  bird,  Fus-way-hnh-yah. 
Money,  Sah-to-kah-no-wah. 
Moon,  Hak-less-see, 


Moon,  Xeth-Jee-hass-see. 
Mother,  Tchat-skee. 
Mole,  To-kah-lee. 
Mouth,  Tchuk-wah. 
Mosquito,  0-kee-hah. 
Muskmelon,  Fo-miss-tehah. 
Moustache  or  beard,  Tchak-ig-say. 
My  own,  E-ree. 
Mystery,   Wah-kull-lah. 

Needle,  SJah-po-fah. 
Night,  J^etk-lee,  or  Yo-mot-skay. 
Necklace,  neckerchief,  Sotch-kah. 
No,  Coo-ree. 

Oak,  Al-lal-kah. 
Orange  (sweet),  Tah-lah-kah. 
Orange  (bitter),  Yah-lah-hah-at-mah. 
Orator,  Yah-tee-kah. 
Orator,  Yah-tee-kah-kluk-ko. 
Owl,  Hup-pec. 

Osceola  (name  of  a  Seminole  chief), 
Rising  Sun. 

Palm,  \ 

Palme  to,  or     [  Tah-lah. 
Saw  palmetto, ) 

Palmetto,  Tah-laMo-ko. 

Palmetto   (cabbage    palm),    Tah-lah- 
knl-kee  or  kluk-ko. 

Paroquet,  Po-tchee-lah-nee. 

Partridge,  Ko-ee. 

Pelican,  Sok-pah-kah. 

Pen  (yard),  To-po-pee-kee  (see  fort). 

Pencil,  Svat-tchah-kah. 

Pepper  range,  Ho-mo-sass-sah. 

Person,  Is-ie.e. 

Pigeon,  Pit-tehee. 

Pine-tree,  7Wnt-lee. 

Pipe,  E-tekee-pffk-imh. 

Pithiocoochee  (name  of  a  river).  Can- 
oe creek. 

Plaza,  a    public    square,    Tckuk-ko- 
kluk-ko. 

Potato,  Ah-hah. 

Pretty  (adj.),  Hain-klits. 

Pretty  (you  are  pretty),    Tchee-hink- 
lass. 


Rabbit,  I'cho-fee. 
To-lo-    Rain,  Oos-kee. 

Rattlesnake,  Tchit-ta-la-koo. 
Rattlesnake     poison,    Antidote    for, 

Pah-sah. 
Racket-stick,  To-ko-ne. 
Red,  Tchat-tee. 

Red-bay-tree,  Itto-mikko  (chief-tree). 
Red  bird,  Fus-tehat-te. 
Red  man,  Is-te-tchat-ie. 
Rifle,  E-tchas-ata-he. 
River,  creek,  Hat-tehee. 
River,  Wee-chik-ko. 

Salt.  0-kah-kan-ah-icah, 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


375 


Sand  &y.  Itch-kah-picsh-wah. 

Savanna,  prairie,  Wee-hai-kay. 

Scalp,  yurii-har. 

Scalp-lock,  Is-say. 

Scissors,  .Su-Ui-kah, 

Seminole,  Outlaw,  wildman,  runaway. 

Shingle,  Ah-tchee-nah. 

Shi  3,  large  vessel,  Pith-lo-hok-to. 

Shirt,  U-kotr-ko-tah. 

Shin,  Tok-sah-kee. 

Shoe,  Still-lee-pi-kah-icah-kce. 

Short,      Kah-tchuk-kah-no-sis       (add 

tchay  for  "very  short "j. 
Sister,  E-wan-mah. 
Sit  down,  Lah-gas-tehay. 
Sit  down  (an  expression  used  only  in 

early  morning),  Hah-hat-kee-hinks- 

tchth. 
Small,  Trhat-wah. 
Smoke,  Ho-pat-kah. 
Snake,  Tchit-tah. 
Snow,  Hit-to-kay-hat-kay. 
Son,  Tchnh-poot-see. 
Soup,  S'lff-kee. 
Spaniard,  Sjian-al-kay. 
Spirit    (a    spirit!,     Wy-ho-icay    Calso 

alcoholic  liquor). 
Spoon,  Hok-kah. 
Spring  of  water,  Wee-ki-vah  (see  We- 

kiva). 
Spy,  scout,  Is-tee-kay-tchul-kay  (one 

who  has  gone  out  to  see). 
Square,  Tchuk-ko. 
Squaw,  Hok-tce. 
Starch-root,  Koon-te-knt-ti. 
Star,  Hut-te'^-tchum-pah. 
Still,  be  still  (used    by  toys  in  the 

English  sense  of  "shut  up  "),  Wy- 

kass-tc/tay  or  Wy-kay-buss-tckay. 
Stone,  Tchat-to. 
Store,  Xis-kat-tcho-ko. 
Sugar-cane,  JIah-Us-tchum-pah. 
Sun,  Hass-my. 
Sunday,  Xeth-lah-tcJiah-ko. 
Surprise,  exclamation  of,  Hi-ee-lah. 
Sweet,  'rchum-jjah. 

Table,  0-hom-pee-tah. 

Tall,  Ull-vay. 

Tallahassee,    Old    cultivation    field, 

"  ancestral  acres." 
Thread,  Ah-fus-icah. 
Thunder,  Ten-et-kee, 
Tiger,  Kat-shah. 
Tiger-tail,  So-ko-tee-mat-lah, 
To-day  (see  Day). 
Tobacco,  E-chee,  or  Hit-chee. 
Tobacco-field.  Hit-chee-puk-sah-see. 
Tobacco  -  ba  g,  Ji'-  tchee-soo-kah. 
To-morrow,  Pak-see. 
Tongue,  Tah-las-wah. 
Town,  Ta-lo-/ah. 
Trader,  Is-nee-sah, 
Trail,  Xee-iiee. 


i  Tree,  It-to. 
I  Tribe,  Al-kee. 

1  Trout-creek,  Tchu-Iah-pah-pah, 
•  Turkey,  I'em-ce-wah. 
Turtle,  Lut-Uha. 

Understand,  I  don't  understand,  KiU 
lax-tchah. 

Wakulla  (name  of  county).  Mystery. 

War,  So-lee-tah-H-ah. 

War-cry,  Yo-ho-ee-tchee. 

War-cry  of  victory,  Kah-hah-que-nee. 

Warrior,  Tus-te-nitg-ge  (often  used  as 

an  affix  to  a  proper  name).    Add 

Kluk-ko  for  very  great  warrior. 
Watch  (time-piece),  Has-se-tse-kah, 
Water,  \yee-u-ah. 
Water-melon,  Tchas-ta-lay. 
Water     moccassin,     Hah-lo-sok-kah- 

tah. 
Well,  it  is  welL  Hink-lah-mas-tchay. 
What,  //(. 

Withlacoochee  (a  river),  Kiver  creek. 
When,  Sta-mar-tce. 
Whip-poor-will,  ."iuk-bal-am-bal-lah. 
Whiskey,  Wy-o-mee. 
White,  Ifat-kee. 

Wife,  Tcha-ee.-kah,  or  Tchee-hi-wah, 
Wild  cat,  Ko-ah-ko-tche2. 
Wildman,  outlaw,  runaway,  Sem-i-no- 

leh  (Seminole). 
Wind,  Ho-tah-lee,  or  Hu-lah-lah. 
Wind,    very    high,    Uo-tah-lee-mas- 

tchay. 
Wind,  gentle,  Ho-tah-lee-sto-mas-sin. 
Wolf,  Yah-hah. 
Woman,   Hi-wah,   Hok-ta-kay,    Hok- 

fee,  or  0-kee-tee. 
Woman  (old),  Hok-tee-huk-tut-nez. 
Womcin    (young),     Hok-tee-man-nee- 

tay. 
Wrap  or  garment,  Huk-say-kay. 

TeUow,  Lah-nee. 

Yes,  Un-kuh,  or  ITo. 

Young,  Man-ah-tchee. 

Your,  you,  Tchah. 

Yah-hah-had-go  (name  of  Seminole 

chief),  Mad-uolf. 
Tah-ho-euchee    (name  of    Seminole 

chief),  The  great  cloud. 

Numerals. 

One,  Ham-kin. 
Two,  Ho-ko-lin. 
Three,  Tut-sa-nan, 
Four,  Oos-ten. 
Five,  Tchoc-ta-pin. 
Six,  E-par-kin. 
Seven,  Ko-la-par-kin. 
Eight,  Sen-na-par-kin. 
Nine,  Oos-to-par-kin. 
Ten,  Far-lin, 


376 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


Eleven,  Uam-ko-la-lin. 
Twelve,  Ho-ko-lo-korlin. 

Names  of  Places. 

The  following  is  a  partial  list  of 
names  of  places  in  Florida,  with  their 
English  meauings. 

Alachua,  The  big  jug. 
Alaqua  (see  pa'je  1),  Sweet  gum. 
Annutilaga,  The  laying-down  place. 
Apopka  (see  page  228). 
Chasehowiska,  Pnmpkin  Key. 
Chichuchaltj',  The  red  houses, 
Chokoliska,  Old  house. 
Chuluota,  Beautiful  view. 
Echashotee,  Beaver  house. 
Econhallowey,  HiL'h  land. 
Etawa,  A  person  po'.eing  a  boat. 
Etonia,  Palmetto  scrub. 
Fenhalloway,  Young  turkey. 
Halpatioka,  Many  alligators. 
Hichepoksasa,  Many  pipes. 
Homosassa,  Pepper-range. 
Istachatta  (name  of   a  town),  man- 
snake. 


Istopoga  (iste  atepoga).  Someone 
drowned. 

Locktshapopka,  Acorn  to  eat. 

Miccanopy  (a  Seminole  chx-f.  and  the 
name  of  a  town;.  Chief-of-ch:efs. 

Myakka,  Fine  country. 

Ocala  (name  of  a  town).  Green  or  fer- 
tile land. 

Okeechobee,  Big  water. 

Okihumkee,  Bad  water. 

Oklawaha,  Dark  water. 

Oklockonee,  Crooked. 

Panasofkee,  Deep  valley. 

Pilaklalakha,  Scatteredhammock.s. 

Tohopekaliga,  Place  of  cow  pens. 

Tathlapopkahatchee,  I  Catfish   eating 

Isalopopkahatcbee,  f  creek  (see  Ap- 
opka ). 

Wakahonta,  Cow  pasture. 

Wakasassa  (name  of  town),  cow  pas- 
ture. 

Wakulla,  Mystery. 

Wekewache,  Water. 

Wekiva,  Big  spring. 

Withlacoochee,  Swift  river  (or  "long 
narrow  water  "). 

Wewakiahakee,  Clear  water. 


MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 


377 


Comparative  Temperature  and  Rainfall  in  Florida. 

Compiled  from  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau  Reports. 

Mean  temperature  (in  degrees  Fahrenlmt)    and  average  rainfall 
(in  inches  and  hundredths)  at  stations  of  the   Signal   Service, 
United  States  Ai'my,  for  each  season  of  the  year.     ( Computed 
from  tli€  commencement  of  ohsercations  at  each.,  to  and  includ- 
ing December,  1884.) 


Middle  Flor 
ida,  includ 
INQ  Atlantic 

AND        Gr  U  L  F 

Coasts. 


Established. 


Jacksonville  . . . 

Sanfurd 

Cedar  Key 

scbtropicai, 
Florida. 

Jupiter 

Key  West 

West  Flobida. 

Pensacola. ...   . . 


Sept.  11,  1S71. 
Sept.  1,  1882. 
Nov.   7,    1879. 


Jan.    1,    1888. 
Nov.   1,   1870. 


Oct.  27,  1879. 


Mean  Temperatcre.  ;  Average  Rainfall. 


69.1!  81.4'  fi9.9]  56.810  47  17.79  16. 70'  9.74 
71.6!  80.5'  73.31  61. 6|  8.4122.35  10.2.3  4.73 
70.3    81.7    72.4    60.1:  8.86  24  10  11.72  11.18 


72.4    80. Oi  75.7    69.4 
76.9    83.8    78.8    70.8 


67.9 


69.5 


6.10  13.4714.80 


5.94 


56.0  14.34  22.53  15.52  14.92 


[The  mean  temperature  is  deduced  from  the  three  telegraphic  observations,  taken 
at  the  same  moment  of  Washington  time  at  all  stations.  The  seasons  com- 
prise the  following  months  :  Spring — March,  April,  and  May  ;  summer — 
June,  July,  and  August ;  autumn — September,  October,  and  November  ;  and 
winter — December,  January,  and  February.  Observations  prior  to  August 
25,  1872,  were  taken  at 7.35  a.m.,  4.35  and  11.35  p.m.  (Washington  time); 
from  August  25,  1872,  to  November  1,  1879,  at  7.35  a.m.,  4.35  and  11.00  p.m. 
(Washington  time) ;  and  from  November  1,  1879,  to  December  31,  1884,  at 
7.00  A.M.,  3.00  and  11.00  p.m.  (Washington  time).] 


378 


MLSCELLAXEOUS   INFORMATION. 


Average  Number  of  Clear  or  Pair  Days,  in  each  Month 
and  Year. 

Compiled  from  the  U.  S.  Weather  Bureau  Reports. 


Middle    Flor- 
ida,     INCLUD- 
ING Atlantic     S 
AND       G  c  L  F 

Coasts. 


Jacksonville  . . . 

Sanford 

Cedar  Key 

Subtropical 
Flokida. 

Key  West 


21.9  20  3  25.5  23.9  25.5  22.8  26.1  25.9  21 .8  23  C  20.8  22.4  280.1 
22.0126.0  2T.0  26.1!  27.0  23.5  28.5  29.2  23.5  25  5  22.5  27  5  322.0 
23.822.0  27.0  26.0  27.0  26.0  26.4  26  6  28.4  27.6  24.2  S5.1  311.0 


26.0 


West  Florida. 
Pensacola 


20.2 


24.5  28.4  27.4  26.6 


24.9  25.8 


26.2 


23  7  24.124.4  26.5 


20.6  22.8  22.2  24.2124.2  25.0  25.2,25.4 


24.2  21.9  20.2 


307.7 


274  6 


Note. — The  Signal  Service  rates  as  clear  or  fair,  days  that  are  in  the  main 
suitable  for  out-of-door  life,  so  far  as  concerns  actual  rain.  Cloudy  days,  which, 
of  coiirso,  inalse  up  the  remainder  of  each  month,  range  from  moderately  showery 
to  a  protracted  downpour. 


Population. 
Population  of  Florida,  390,435. 

(United  States  Ce/isus,  1890.) 


MISCELLANEOUS  IXFORiL\TION.  379 


The  Game  Laws  of  Florida.* 

Non-Residents.— McLellan's  Digest,  1881,  Chapter  80.— 
Sec.  15.  It  shall  be  unlawful  for  any  non-resident  of  this 
State  to  hunt  for  game  of  any  kind  or  description,  for  the 
purpose  of  conveying  the  game  killed  or  caught  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  State,  without  first  obtaining  a  license  from  the 
clerk  of  the  county  in  which  he  jjroposes  hunting,  for  which 
he  shall  -par  the  sum  of  twenty-five  dollars ;  and  in  case 
there  be  a  company  desiring  to  hunt  together  under  the 
same  license,  they  all  may  be  included  in  one  license  by  pay- 
ing an  additional  five  dollars  each  ;  but  not  more  than  six 
persons  shall  be  included  in  the  same  license.  [Sec.  16. 
Violation  a  misdemeanor ;  penalty,  a  fine  of  S50  to  8500,  one- 
lialf  to  informer.  Sec.  17.  The  drying,  salting,  curing, 
packing,  or  caging  of  game  shall  he  prima  facie  evidence  of 
intent  to  ship.] 

Sea  Birds  and  Birds  of  Plume. — Sec.  19.  It  shall  not  be 
lawful  for  any  person  or  persons  to  wantonly  destroy  the 
nest,  eggs,  or  young  of  any  sea  bird  or  bird  of  ijlume  in  this 
State,  on  the  land  or  coast,  or  in  any  of  the  seas,  bays,  riv- 
ers, creeks,  or  harbors,  or  within  a  maritime  league  of  the 
coast  of  said  State.  [Sec.  20.  Violation  a  misdemeanor; 
penalty,  fine  of  810  to  820.] 

Birds  of  Plume. — Sec.  21.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any 
person  not  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  to  kill  any  birds, 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  plumes  therefrom,  on  any  part 
of  the  coast  of  Florida,  or  in  any  of  the  bays,  rivers,  creeks, 
or  harbors,  or  inland  waters  or  prairies  of  the  same,  or  with- 
in a  marine  league  of  the  coast  of  said  State.  [Sec.  22. 
Violation  is  a  misdemeanor  ;  penalty,  a  fine  of  85  to  8100.] 

Fish  Traps,  etc.— Act  of  June  3, 'l887.— Sec.  2.  That  it 
shall  be  unlawful  for  any  person  or  jjersons  to  i^ut,  plan, 
or  maintain  any  permanent  trap  or  snare,  or  any  other  de- 
vice that  is  permanent,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  fish  in 
any  of  the  lakes  or  streams  in  this  State,  or  to  use  any  seine 

*  From  the  Game  Laws  of  America,  Forest  and  Stream  Publishing  Company. 


oSO  MISCELLANEOUS  INFORMATION. 

or  drag  net  for  the  purjDOse  of  catching  fish  in  such  lakes  or 
streams  during  the  months  of  February,  March,  April,  May, 
Juno,  July,  August,  and  September  of  each  year.  [Sec. 
2.  Violation  is  a  misdemeanor  ;  penalty,  fine  of  825  to  ??100, 
or  imprisonment  10  to  40  days.  Sec.  3.  Officers  are  autho- 
rized to  seize  illegal  apparatus.]  Sec.  4.  That  nothing 
in  this  act  shall  be  so  construed  as  to  prohibit  any  per- 
son from  catching  fish  from  waters  owned  wholly  by  him- 
self or  herself  in  any  manner  thought  proper,  and  nothing 
in  this  act  shall  i^revent  persons  from  catching  fish  with  a 
hook  and  line,  unless  the  same  is  done  for  the  jrarpose  of 
shipping  out  of  this  State.  [But  Sec.  1  of  this  act,  forbid- 
ding exportation  of  fresh-water  fish,  was  repealed  by  act  of 
June  4,  1889.] 

Food  Fishes.— Act  of  January  28,  1885.— Sec.  1.  That  it 
shall  not  be  lawful  for  anyone  to  catch  or  capture  any  of 
the  following  fish  :  Mullet,  trout,  red  fish,  sheep's-head,  pom- 
jjano,  mackerel,  blue  fish,  red  snapper,  grouper,  or  juarell, 
within  the  waters  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  State  of 
Florida,  for  the  purpose  of  making  oil,  fertilizer,  and  compost 
therefrom.  [Sec.  2.  Violation  is  misdemeanor ;  penalty, 
fine  of  not  more  than  ^200,  or  imj^risonment  two  months,  or 
both,  at  discretion  of  the  court.] 

Wanton  Destruction  of  Fish. — McLellan's  Digest,  1881, 
Chapter  107.— Sec.  8.  It  shall  not  be  lawful  for  any  person 
or  persons,  citizens  or  non-residents  of  this  State,  with  or 
without  a  license,  to  engage  in  catching  fish  for  the  roes 
only,  or  turtle  for  the  eggs  only,  or  in  any  manner  wantonly 
destroying  the  fish  or  turtle  on  the  coast  of  this  State. 


The  Seville 

Seville,  Voltisia  Co. 

FLORIDA. 


Twenty-eight  miles  south  of  Palatka;  forty- 
two  miles  south  of  St.  Augustine.  On  the 
ridge  between  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  St. 
Johns.  In  the  piney  w^oods,  surrounded  by 
orange  groves  and  limpid  lakes.  Supplied  with 
water,  sweet  (fiot  sulphureous),  from  a  lake 
fed  by  living  springs.  In  salubrious  country, 
with  most  approved  sew^erage. 


BOATING.     SHOOTING.     DRIVING. 


Bath  rooms.  Fresh  vegetables  from  hotel 
gardens.  All  express  trains  stop;  through 
Pullman  car  on  train  leaving  New  York  at 
9  P.M.  daily. 


Rates,  $3.50  per  Day. 
HKNRY     L.    HUNTRESS, 

Of  (New)  Senter  House,  Centre  Harbor,  N.  H., 
91  A  fiXG  E  R  . 


Abbey  &  Imbrie, 


18  Vesey  Street, 
NEM/   YORK   CITY. 


MANUFACTURERS    OF 


EVKRY      DESCRIPTION     OF 


FISHING  TACKLE, 


Send    25    Cents 


Kor    136    Page   Catalogue. 


HOTEL  PUNTA  GORDA, 

PUNT  A    GORDA,  FLORIDA. 


Every  Room  is  a  Front  Room,  Facing  the  Bay. 
Opens  January    ist,    i89i. 


We  take  pleasure  in  announcing  to  our  friends  and  the  pub- 
lic that  Hotel  Punta  Gorda  will  be  open  about  January  first,  with  a 
full  corns  of  New  England  service.  This  new  and  beautiful  Hotel  is 
located  on  Charlotte  Harbor  at  the  terminus  of  the  Florida  Southern 
Railway  (now  leased  and  controlled  by  the  Jacksonville,  Tampa,  and 
Key  West  Railway,  which  is  a  guarantee  of  first-class  train  service). 
All  trains  arrive  at  and  depart  from  the  Hotel  steps.  Ticket,  Pullman 
Car,  Express  and  Telegraph  offices  in  the  Hotel. 

The  Punta  Gorda  is  elegantly  furnished,  has  gas,  electric  bells,  and 
open  fireplaces  ;  is  three  stories  high,  150 front  rooms  with  a  superb  out- 
look over  the  beautiful  Bay,  which  is  about  one  mile  across  to  Hickory 
Bluffs.  The  Hotel  has  a  veranda  over  400  feet  in  length,  so  arranged 
that  one  can  find  sunshine  or  shade  at  any  hour  of  the  day.  It  has  the 
finest  lawn  in  Florida,  containing  over  two  acres,  with  beautiful  shell 
walks,  hedges,  flower  plats,  shade  and  fruit  trees.  It  is  supplied  with 
plenty  of  soft  water  and  has  perfect  drainage.  The  climate  at  Punta 
Gorda  is  as  nearly  perfect  as  any  in  the  world  ;  free  from  cold  waves, 
and  tempered  by  the  salt  water  breezes  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
which  invigorate  but  do  not  chill. 

A  billiard  room  is  connected  with  the  Hotel,  and  Sail-boats  and 
Row-boats  can  always  be  had.  The  fine  pier  directly  in  front  of  the 
Hotel  gives  a  beautiful  promenade.  No  expense  will  be  spared  in  the 
endeavor  to  contribute  in  everyway  to  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  the 
guests. 

The  celebrated  Summit  Springs  mineral  water  from  Harrison, 
Maine,  will  be  served  free  to  guests  in  the  dining  room. 

The  only  Hotel  in  the  state  giving  every  guest  a  front  room  facing 
the  Gulf  waters.  It  is  also  surrounded  by  the  best  hunting  groui;ds  in 
Florida. 

Charlotte  Harbor  is  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  the  finest  fishing 
ground  in  the  United  States.  The  tarpon  fishing  with  rod  and  reel 
takes  the  lead,  while  for  the  hunter  there  is  an  inexhaustible  supply  of 
ducks,  wild  turkeys,  deer  and  other  game. 

The  Morgan  Line  ot  steamers  arrive  and  leave  twice  a  week  for 
Key  West,  Havana,  Cedar  Keys,  and  New  Orleans. 

For  terms,  etc.,  address  D.  H.  Swan,  40  Water  St.,  Room  10, 
Boston,  Mass.     After  December  20,  Punta  Gorda,  Florida. 


D.   H.   SWAN,   Hotel  Punta  Gorda,  Florida. 

D.   H.   SWAN,  HARRY  B.   WARDEN, 

Proprietor.  Manager. 

Also  Summit  Springs  Hotel,  Also  of  United  States  Hotel, 

Harrison,  Maine.  Atlantic  City,  N,J. 


THE  TROPICAL  TRUNK  LINE 

JACKSONVILLE,    TAMPA,    AND    KEY 
WEST    SYSTEM. 

A  system  of  rail  and  steamer  lines,  equipped  with  all  the 
modern  improved  appliances  for  the  comfort  of  tourists,  insuring 
safe,  speedy,  and  reliable  transportation  without  unpleasant  trans- 
fers ;  covers  something  more  than  one  thousand  miles  of  tropical 
territory,  and  reaches  direct 

ALL  WINTER  PLEASURE  RESORTS 

of  southern  Florida.      All  through  passenger  trains  on   this  line 
carry  Pullman  Buffet,  Sleeping,  and  Parlor  Cars. 

ROUTE   OF   THE   WEST    INDIA   FAST    MAIL 

Between    NEW    YORK   and    HAVANA, 

The  only  line  extending  to  the 

FAMOUS  INDIAN   RIVER. 

Direct  route  to  the  Orange,  Sugar,  Tobacco,  and  Fruit  producing 
sections  of  Florida. 

For  maps,  souvenirs,  schedules,  etc.,  apply  to  any  ticket  agent, 
or  address  the  General  Passenger  Agent,  Jacksonville. 

Save  yourselves  annoyance,  and  economize  in  the  matter  of 
expenditures  on  your  tours,  by  securing  tickets  via  the  Jacksonville, 
Tampa,  and  Key  West  System. 

D.    F.    JACK,  G.    D.    ACKERLY, 

General  Manager,  General  Passenger  Agent, 

JACKSONVILLE,    FLA. 


UD 


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